REBUILDING MY ABANDONED HONDA CB250 | BLASTING RUST
Вставка
- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
- The Honda CB250 Super dream rebuild project continues. In this upload we address some of the difficult challenges we have had so far. We also take a look at rebuilding the suspension and I get to use my sand blaster for the very first time
--------------------------------------------------------------------
If you would love to support this channel then you can do so via Patron
/ bikesofrye
Find me on
/ bikes_of_rye
Join me on Facebook
/ bikesofrye
Hi everyone thanks for watching - I have been terribly ill lately so please forgive me for a shorter than normal upload. Will try make up for it in the next one
You need to look after yourself . It's not good to load all this pressure on yourself trying to sort out these shitters
Ur sounding a bit ruff on the voiceovers! Take it easy man! 💪🏾
I think the easiest way to get that piston out is simply to get it back near the bike and mount the brake hose on it. Than you can use the brake master cylinder, front or rear doesn't matter to push the piston out... You will need to get the air out of corse but its not a problem and you will solve yours stuck piston for the cost of few drops of brake fluid.
Finally, someone with some sense. 100% the way to go
Try fitting a grease nipple in the caliper and then use a grease gun to apply pressure.
That fork tube is shagged, the pitting will just cause your seals to leak. Either get the old tubes away for re-chroming or buy some new ones.
i hate to agree but my first 125 had chrome pitting and depending how low it is will mean a fork oil leak even with new seals. it ended up being cheaper for me to replace the stantions. if the rust is high then a cleaning hack i heard and tried was using a piece of rolled up kitchen foil with a little water
GT85 is Magic stuff, It cleans, Restores and repairs stuff.... Don't you know this! 😉
@@JayVtec-GAMING and replaces chrome… 😂
@@markmiller5577 NO 🤦
@@sidwainhouse Clearly..... 😂🤦
Rye, Don't kill your lungs! Get a vacuum on that sandblasting cabinet. And a camera inside the box will only destroy your camera. In future if any bolts are difficult to remove, maybe try re-tightening down the other bolts before trying to remove the stuck bolt. It worked for me in the past.
That rear shock shaft looked bent anyway…..I’m watching because the 250 super dream was one of my favourite bikes to ride .great to see someone rebuild one….good luck 🍀
I mentioned this before, but sandblasters create an awful lot of dust, it doesn't all stay in the cabinet, and you should absolutely be wearing a proper cartridge dust mask when using it, and above all, when you open it. Silicosis is not fun.
A cyclone filter on the vacuum has been mentioned, below and that's an extremely good idea.
For the caliper, the best way to get it out is going to be to hook it up to hydraulic pressure one way or another. The master cylinder on another bike is a decent option (but will require a full brake bleed afterwards), but a grease gun will do the trick in a pinch. Dont worry about using the right fluid for the latter option, fill the caliper with water, attach the grease gun where the hydraulic hose normally goes, and get pumping.
As for the bottom end of the engine, you are going to need to tear it down. Its got great gaping holes with the pistons poking out of the top, and even if you've managed to keep the big chunks of crap out, that blasting media will have managed to get in there; grit and swarf is not good for the crank bearings.
Once I have rebuilt the master cylinder I am going to hook it up - it seems logical that it should work
@@BikesofRye Sounds like a decent test of the master cylinder... I wouldn't hold too much hope for the piston, though, I'd already have a full caliper rebuild kit complete with piston on order if I were you.
caliper is knackered dave silver spares is your man
Those forks are absolutely shot. Zero way they will hold oil for any legth of time without damaging the seals and leaking. Get them sent for rechroming now (it usually takes around 8 weeks!) or get replacements. Powdercoating is the way to go for fork lowers. That paint won't last long as soon as it sees and roadsalt/brake cleaner etc etc etc
I wish I got a close up of the pitting as its very very minor... stone chips would be worse. Plus the pitting is a fair way up the stanchions so I don't believe it will cause any issues
Someone did mention here before brake caliper piston tool. I had exact same issue and the tool worked a treat. Well with a little PlusGas too.
Screw a grease nipple into where the banjo bolt is and pump the caliber full of grease it’ll soon get the piston out
Ive done this before. For single piston calipers it works well and you can easily clean out the grease later, for dual or quad pistons it is a nightmare to clean afterwards. A brake master cylinder and a banjo bolt is a better option.
Soak the caliper in diesel for a couple of days, then grab hold of the exposed section with vise grips or a set of stilsons and get it to rotate.
Then apply air and rotate it back and forth.
It'll pop out.
Mate of mine, bought one of these brand new when released in the UK, back in the eighties. My suzuki GT185 would leave him standing every time. He even said that the Honda Super Dream, was a heap of garbage 😡🤣🤣🇬🇧🇬🇧
Who cares, it's a classic, and a hood looking one.
Bleed screw hole should read below. I wouldn't take the gearbox apart with them miles there's not need just replace the seals. Regards Stephen
Keep going mate, you are doing a good job. See you next month 😊
You need a separate room when sandblasting. You don't want that dust into an open engine.
Or in your lungs.
@dave8204 exactly, lungs can not be repaired from what I know
I'd recommend fitting an extractor in the wall above the sandblaster as well, it makes a huge difference, believe me.....based on my past experience!
With the calliper piston put some soft covers on your vice get a piece of 15mm or 20mm copper pipe cut it then form them over the vice jaws then put the piston in the jaws and lock it down having removed the 2 calliper pins turn the calliper body if that does not work dump it. I use this method with broken or rounded bleed nipples never failed yet.
You can try to seperate the caliper piston. But it is scrap. The surface between piston and caliper is corroded so if you refresh it it will leak or stuck while braking. So do yourself a favor and get a new one. Breaks are to important to play with.
1:05 What would have saved you time and headaches was not opening the engine in the first place mate lol 😂
Harry says use an oxy acetaline at the bottom of the head bolt while applying maximum force.
A long shot, put the caliper in the oven, once really hot pour cold water on the piston so it shrinks and yank it out with mole grips or internal expanding puller.
Could just work....
I have a small sand blaster and find hooking up a shop vac to the filter outlet really helps with dust in and out if the cabinet and makes it easier to see…. The standard light in mine was also pretty crappy so I just rest a led torch face down on the window ad makes a huge difference! Also I added some thicker self adhesive foam around the door so was a more snug fit
Feel your pain been below power myself this week, keep focused great input on your work sofar.
You need to send fork tubes off the Phillpots to re chrome.
Best show on youtube
Pump it full of grease it’s a bit messy but always works
Hey mate, really enjoy your videos thanks. connecting a vacuum to your sandblaster will help alot with seeing what your doing and keeping the dust down. Cheers
Hi, I hope your feeling better. Pump your brake piston out with a grease gun. 6mm grease nipple in bleed screw hope them blank the banjo bolt hole off with a fine thread bolt or old banjo bolt with the centre filled with JB weld. Get a cheap side lever gun with a grease cartridge. I had the same problem air would not touch it, it came out easy this way.
To remove the piston from the caliper, put two big allan keys into the "pot" so that it fits snug, clamp the caliper and then prise the key like a spanner back and forth, hopefully that works for you, it did for me
I've tried this mate - I feel the caliper is beyond that little trick
Enjoying watching the restoration. I'm in the middle of getting a 1993 Yam TDM back on the road. My brake calipers were seized too. I ended up cutting up the original brake hose, and fitting an adapter to one end and forcing air into it. I havent got a compressor so I used a high pressure bike pump. It did work, finally blowing out at around 170psi.
In my experience with sanding down forks, your repair will work...for a while, before you'll be needing a new set of seals. Rechroming is your bet bet, but that comes at a cost, say £200 a pair in the UK.
Looking forward to the next episode. Get better soon!
Yam calipers of that era were a nightmare,they used to seize on overnight. I used to tap mine with a hide mallet every morning to free mine up.
Would be a good idea to strip the engine anyway, bearings ,bushes and oil seals all need checking and probably replacing.
Also a good idea to use a mask when operating the sand blaster, glass dust, nasty!
Fit a grease nipple to the calliper and pump the piston out with a grease gun.
Put the brake calliper in a hot oven for about 45 mins then try and get it a part , works a treat
What is happening with the CR125????
You can easily rebuild the damper.
Im putting all my spare time into a 32 year old cb400 superfour. I also have a dam stuck nut 😮
Keep going mate you’re doing great 👍❤️
as per my last comment, apply head to the caliper at the back while putting air on it, and it will come ( use map gas)
Sorry caliper and fro t master cylinder are properly scrap. Try hagons in London for new rear shocks.
Get the fork stanchions rechromed or the seals will just go again. Sent my '98 FireBlade ones to Brookes Suspension and they came back perfect
Leaving the pitting in the stanchions is iffy mate, there’s a good chance those pits will tear up your new fork seals
Soak your break caliper in Penetrene for a week
Why leave the tank transfers on ?
you won't get that piston free with air pressure - hydraulic (fluid) pressure will be necessary so hook up a proper brake line and pump it
it is why you remove air fro braking sytems - air is too compressible and it doesn't apply a lot of force - yes it moves volume but won't match fluid dynamics
If you don't sort out that blasting cabinet or wear a mask you are heading for trouble.
Get a secondhand unit from the breaker!
Going by all the comments offering advice, this is becoming a series on How Not To restore a 1986 CB250.
This is not a how to channel 😁
Tec Bike parts do the correct replica shocks for about £58 a pair
I've seen them ones 😉
@@BikesofRye Even if the originals were usable they were notoriously bad when new,30 years wouldn't have made them any better.
Don’t bother with that master cylinder. The bore will be very pitted. Same if you find a used one. See if you can find a new one or go after market.
I. Made a dust collector for my sand blaster
Not splitting the engine is the ultimate lazy move, you're rebuilding it - inspect whats happening inside, take measurements and give it a thorough wash....
You're an inspiration bro, give me a tingle down below 👉👌💋
You need new forks and a caliper
Can you not just reconnect to brake hose back up to the reservoir and pop the piston out that way.
Need to rebuild the master cylinder - it may be a solution we can try. Let's see
You need to "triage" the components and parts, and pick your winners. I accept you need to create content, but a bike in that condition is going to be extremely difficult to get back to a usable state. I owned one of these in the mid 80s and they were crap then and they are even more crap now. The cylinder head studs always seized due to the stupid exposed design so I feel your pain there. You would be better off scouring Ebay for bits like calipers and master cylinders. They were a big seller so I assume there will be bits available. It may end up like Triggers Broom but at least you won't waste your time. Good luck with it anyway.
Fit that caliper back to a master bleed it then pump it out
“Fork stansions are a little bit pitted and you can’t repair that “, what the fuck are you taking about! Do it right , or go home . Get them rechromed
How is it a “rebuild “ if you don’t strip the bottom end and g’box ?
It's closer than Dirty Garage Guy's gotten in about 8 years!
first comment - Do i get a biscuit?
You can have a 🍭
@@BikesofRye Cheers i'll take it - Hope you get well soon i've been suffering with a dry cough and all sorts where is the bloody summer?
I'd try soaking it in diesel a few days. U have to replace the seals anyway. Good luck
Please buy new fork stanchions👍
more clickbait bullshit 🤷♂
Thanks for returning
FOAD