I'm so glad to see you talk about hand eye coordination and muscle memory. They both play a huge role in accuracy. My crooked double bit proves it for me. Loving the videos as always dude!
It really deserves a video itself, but that’s all I had the energy for lol. Double’s can be hard to get both bits straight, as the eye needs to be punched perfectly, and the bits need to be ground perfectly. I’ve found they often aren’t.
Totally agree with you on the short handles. I'm 6'4" and anything over 30" I have no control. Keep up doing exactly what you're doing my chopping and sharpening has improved greatly since finding your videos. Thanks. Also I like the philosophical interjections
Amazing view at 7:30, where the cut has sunk to the center of the tree but still hasn't thrown any chips. Also congrats Kevin, you have nearly twice the subscribers since I subbed!
Great stuff as always Kevin. One thing I will say, when bucking you want to get your feet as close as possible to the log (standing on the log whenever possible). It will give you the ability to better use your power and places you in a better position to cut through the bottom wood. The farther your feet are from the log, the less efficient you will be (near vertical chopping). Sometimes when bucking i am so close to the log my toes are touching it. I believe this is also the reason why racing axe handles are relatively short, they allow the axman to use maximum power, be more accurate, and be in an advantageous position relative to the log. Thank you for all of your awesome content.
You’re definitely right about feet placement for more arch. I personally just don’t feel comfortable with it, especially standing on the log. But you’re right.
I got one of these for my birthday last year and I absolutely love love it! It's is my work horse thru the winter for sure! Thanks so much for sharing! Cheers, Kimmers and Jerbs #neverquitquitting #beup #DSKFS 👍🏼🇺🇸🔥🔪🔥🇨🇦👍🏼
@@KevinsDisobedience absolutely dig it...its an older one so it's a good one...splits great...whoever had it before me put an amazing splitting edge on it so the fir we burn doesn't stand a chance! Doesn't have timber sports handle on it and has 34" and I believe was a fire/forestry workers old painted handle still...but yeah keep up the awesomeness bruv! Cheers, Jerbs 🇺🇸🔪🇨🇦
I think it's gorgeous Kevin. I've never tried a 26ish inch on anything over 2.5lb, but would be interested in it. To get it to throw chips better in that dense, stringy maple, I think a slight hollow in the area of the logo to the edge of your file work would suffice. Also a 28 or 29 inch handle to increase your finishing torque slightly. But like you said, it would probably be really good for larger bucking tasks as well as larger limbs. Axes like that I have found really crave ever increasing velocity towards the bottom 3rd of the swing; so with that being said I'd like to see you try the ""timbersport" type swing you were experimenting with prior to your injury in larger wood with this axe
Give it a try. And thanks for the suggestions. As for the Timber Sports swing, it ain’t for me. I’ve been modeling my swing more after the Basque racers who reach the axe higher to the sky and have a quick arc down. Thanks
@@KevinsDisobedience your best bet would be to use a grinder. Flap disc or resin disc with a flat backing are the best options for removing material quickly, but obviously make sure she doesn't get too hot. Then a right angle die grinder works great for sanding out the marks. Definitely go a little at a time, testing in some wood until you like the end product. Also, wait to remove the sanding marks until you like how it releases from the wood. The stain that certain woods leave on your axe are good indicators as to where you might need to take more material out. If you need any more info, get in touch with Owen. I'll give him my number to send to you
I think the thing about the Arvika is how gorgeous it is. You kind of talk yourself out of its faults. Hmmmmm its sticky. But look at it, its gorgeous! Hmmmm..........Ive better axes at home. But look how gorgeous it is! I stayed with my middle wife waaaaay to long for pretty much the same reason. Plus, there's an Arvika Cult. Id say at least half of the AirB&B's I've book in rural Sweden have one knocking about in the yard, shed, woodstore. And they are standard. No thinning of the handles, no regrinding of the fat convex edge. I mean, ive watched your and Bens videos pointing out the faults with this axe. Ive got "better" axes. Heck I've got a stunning classic vintage GB i got off Owen Jarvis. It'll do far more then my skills can. But I'm still getting an Arvika for myself for Christmas....................Why? Because its frigging gorgeous.
You said it. Pretty as hell, like your second wife lol. I gave it to VintageAxehoarder, and he loves it for standing block 🤷♀️. Just sharing my experience is all.
Another great video Kevin. As far as the head weight/ handle length ratio, I find it to be less about balance and more about the size of the wood being chopped. I use a heavier head on larger wood. And most of the time I'm standing on the larger logs using the underhand chop method. The longer handle length helps with the extra reached needed in this situation. Having said that I tend to keep my max length at 30 inches to help keep accuracy in line. When bucking on the ground however, the 28 inch is king.
Everything you said resonates with my experience, only I don’t stand on the log and chop, ever. I think it’s a risky technique, and if the log’s big enough to stand on it’s going to be more efficient to use a saw. But when we’re just practicing or having fun I’d suggest a pair of chain mail socks. One glance on top of the log and you’ve got a lot to lose. I think Ben prefers 30” handles when underhand chopping as well.
I think I like this axe a lot more than you do lmao. I took it out today. Rolled the edge right of the bat. Micro bevel fixed that issue. Other than that, i really enjoyed using it.
Great insight, I agree with you about the shorter handles, im not a big guy and I have alot of trouble controlling a 3 1/2 pound axe head on a 32 in 36 in handle yet no trouble with a 28 inch or shorter handle. Great video!
Once you try it you know what I’m going on about, but when you’re still splitting wood with a full size axe and you see a 4.5lb head on a tiny handle it looks silly. You can’t understand why anyone would do that. Then you start chopping, forget the handle length almost immediately, and start hitting what you’re aiming for. Thanks!
Maaaate, easy one of your best vids. Great discussion on hand/eye, muscle memory. At 11.05 it showed the alignment issue very well. My thoughts is that unless your cutting logs with radii more than 2-3 times the bit length ( which on this axe will probably result in a scalloped or scooped cut) it's not that much of an issue. I'm about to head to the loggers camp for some Sunday choppin, so this vid was a perfect kick in the backside to get out there. AWESOME! Also agree on the handle lenght thing. On say a 36, I'd go a lighter head for more speed than a heavier head for more punch.
Thanks Kurt, this one was fun to make. I enjoy interacting with the community. It helps me clarify my thoughts on the issues at hand. Enjoy camp tomorrow! I’ve also wanted to put a 2.5lb head on a 36” handle and give it a whip. I bet it’d be quite fun to swing. Thanks for watching, brother. Can’t wait for your next upload!
idk if this was already on the table but "Kevin rambling about" as a channel name has a nice ring to it and it doesn't lock you in a category ... if you really feeling to change it (as i wouldn't just a side note).
"Now that the tarp's up it stopped raining." Every. Single. Time. Nice to see you chopping again. It seems like your experience with the Arvika (not popping chips) is pretty common, so I'd say it's not you, it's the axe.
Good looking axe! +1 on shorter handles. +1 on longer cutting edge. My fav is a 3.,5# council tool Jersey with the bevels. Came on s 32" handle, now on a 28" handle. About a 5.25 cutting edge. Handles great.
I’ve been meaning to get the newer Arvika. I have the older one from the 60s with the 5 stars across the poll and man is it a beauty. I always thought of it more as a Connie than a Tassie.
Did you weigh yours? My total axe, out of the box, is 2550g , it lacks 200g. So i read before some had had weight issues...are they ALL underweight? I agree, misaligned axes can be used, but i do really hate them
I didn’t, unfortunately, and I traded it to a friend for a vintage Michigan, but he really likes it. He rehung it, as that was a really exaggerated hang. Obviously better if perfectly in line, but kicked just to the side of the center isn’t a game changer. Thanks for commenting.
Thanks, I enjoyed making this one a lot. I suspect you need to take an 1.5” off of it to make it pop chips in green hardwood, so probably won’t happen in my lifetime unless I do it on purpose. That said, I’m not done with this axe yet. I think it would make a great cured wood axe.
Good video, crooked axes dont make a difference on 1 or two hit logs, but ive found chopping the bigger stuff or when you switch regularly they are annoying
I can see that. I can also see it causing some minor issues when felling, as it’s like a goddamn hewing axe it’s so bad, so it will definitely add up over time. Fortunately for me, anything big enough to need three cuts with that beast is getting cut with a saw.
I'm not going to be talking shit about Hults Bruk saying they can't make a good axe. But damn man, I felt my frustration rising seeing you wiggle and wrenching that sucker up free from the cuts. I have a couple of flat cheeked mexican collins axes, my first purchases, that do the same in green wood, and you pointed out as much with that arvika as well. I love my wide convex plumb and kelly woodslasher jerseys for what you're doing. Or any axe with good high centerline convex cheeks.
Yeah all that wiggling is tiring as hell. I think they modeled this axe after a racing axe from the side, which is why it’s so pretty, but what they overlooked is the fact that racing axes are long and fat, not long and thin. It would basically mean adding another 1lb or more to this axe-hence the 6lb racing axe.
@@KevinsDisobedience Even just a couple of extra millimeters added to the cheeks would probably make a difference. Adding extra head weight isn't much of an obstacle once your axe is on a shorter than average handle. My heaviest head is a six pound true temper pick head axe on a 30.5 inch handle. It's heavy but not much of a problem too pick up. Another example is a 4 3/4 pound plumb rafting axe on a 30 inch oak stick. On a full sized handle I don't think I would be keen on picking up and dealing with those big clunkers. Using the axes then would be more a chore. 💪
Hi Kevin!!😀😀 The Arika is a really sweet axe. But I'm way too tall to be able to have anything less than a 28 to 30 inch handle in it. Anything shorter and I have to bend over way too much to chop with it. A 26 inch or shorter is what I consider to be a hatchet. LOL!! I really prefer a 32 inch at the shortest for chopping of any kind. Take care my friend!!😀😀 Logger Al
Anecdotally I want the maximum length handle no matter the axe weight I want to split wood on the ground bending over as little as possible and being 6.3 might have something to do with it. Also buckin' loves the arvika so I might have to give it a try
If you’re going to split wood, you definitely want a longer handle and you definitely don’t want this axe. Go for a true Tassie. As Buckin says it’s all about the geometry.
@@KevinsDisobedience I would have to have Facebook and messenger to do that. And every time I load Facebook, it's screws up my phone. It looks like HB stoped production of the Arvika. And the Tassie is priced too high for my budget.
That’s never been my intention. Some guys get mad at me because they think I’m purposely disliking popular axes. But anybody can see my experience. I’m not hiding it or anything.
I reckon that to reap the full advantages of a longer handle you need to put more work into every swing AND need sustained extreme accuracy. This would result in less swings per minute for the same output and a more measured pace of work. I reckon these skills would only be attained by somebody felling 5 or 6 days a week year in, year out. For us lesser mortals shorter handles are far more efficient in the main part due to better accuracy
Basically what Grizz said. I have two videos dedicated to handles. If you haven’t seen them and are genuinely curious about the subject, check them out. But in short, handles started getting smaller as trees got smaller. Once the first growth giants were felled-which required extra reach and leverage in order to fell the tree in a timely manner-30” handles on 3lb heads became much more common.
I like the looks of it, but probably won't buy one. Also: I find shorter handles make accuracy easier, and a slightly crooked axe head makes no difference.
It is pretty and suspect in soft wood or in cured wood it would be quite a good cutter. As for bit alignment, it makes a slight difference but is easily overcome.
Sorry just seeing this. So basically if the metal fills up the cutout and allows the point to exit the apex that’s the angle of the cutting edge. Good question…it’s actually not as accurate as we’re led believe.
Handle length is so subjective..but as a framer and hammer swinger for most my life.. when titanium heads hit the market..most pros..switched to the them..for good reason..less weight on a longer handle got you the same power with much more accuracy..I'm sure everyone has their sweet spot..but heavier head on a shorter handle is almost always gonna be more accurate which his gonna be more efficient...just my opinion..of course
I’ve been eyeing those titanium hammers since they’ve come out. I started in concrete and when I started we knocked together forms in the field with nails and hammer. But if I’m honest, I have seen a nail (outside of a nail gun) on a construction site in I don’t know how long. My hammer hangs on my belt in case I need a door stop, or sometimes to tap something into place. One of my guys has a $150 Stiletto (gorgeous thing)! We call it his earring, because it hangs from his belt like a piece of jewelry. I still want one though lol.
Hey kevin. Im curious, do you film these videos on your own property? Im having trouble getting access to wood. Cut down 8 trees on my property and the only ones left are too dangerous. Is there a permit i can get that would allow me to recover dead wood from local forests? I really need to find some wood to stay in the game. I have about a cord total chopped and stacked. But i need more! Lol
Wow! A cord already! You’re killing it! And yes, I’m fortunate. This is on my place. But my suggestion to you is to talk to some farmers. Give them your number. Very often if you explain what you’re doing they will allow you to take home windfall, and some may even let you thin out overgrown forests. Also, after windstorms your can take a ride around and see if any trees fell into open fields where the farmer will be glad to get rid of. Beyond that, I’d just find some parks or roadsides where you can pull up with a truck, find some downed trees, cut some lengths with a saw and load them up. Who’s going to bother you? And if they do, just play dumb. All you’re doing is taking a log off the ground. Better to ask forgiveness later than permission fist. But ask the farmers or property owners. They may be able to help you out. Good luck!
Gday Billy, Kevin's spot on about asking a local farmer, and you could try contacting some local tree loppers as well, they may set aside some logs as long as you can pick them up quickly. Not sure if it works the same in other countries, but here in Aus we can apply for a firewood collection permit from our local State Forests department. We're not allowed to fell trees, but can harvest dead timber off the ground. If you keep your eye on logging operations in your forests, you may even be able to get recently felled green timber that would be ideal for axe work. Exposed tracks along ridgelines are a good place to find windblown stuff. Also gives you an excuse to grab some maps and check out some new country! Good job on the cord
@@KevinsDisobedience thanks for the reply! And yes i have a cord. Dimensions are 9 feet long, 4 feet wide and 4 feet high. I reckon thats alittle over a cord?
I considered the Arvika 5 Star and opted for Council Tool Velvicut Felling Axe for several reasons. With a 4 lb head it's comparable in weight, but I think that the similarities end there. The 5160 steel and CT's heat treatment are superior to HB's C50, though it's good. The Velvicut's geometry is designed for popping those chips and it's a splitter, too. IMHO, Council Tool gives more quality for less money and all sourced and MADE IN THE USA. That's why I own six CT's and one HB. All European axes are overpriced in the US. Buy American when it's the best.
I’ve actually consider it. If all I did was woodsy stuff, I’d probably go with it, but I like to do shop stuff too. Haven’t made up my mind yet. I have a few new ideas I’m kicking around as well.
Right that’s true. Awesome content man. I like to here the knowledge but also KNOW that it is coming from you own experience like you said. There are people in UA-cam land that just memorize “An Axe to Grind” before an axe video and that is their knowledge. Good to see there are still people actually putting in the work! And I appreciate it!
@@KevinsDisobedience When I mentioned that a few weeks back I conceptualized the word "woods" broadly... Used as a metaphor it can apply to the actual woods, the shop, the farm fields, house renovations, etc. Basically anything that gives you challenges and joy. For example, in a prior life I was an analyst at a research company. I had a huge juvenile crime prevention initiative in the state of CA in my project portfolio. In-house I referred to working on that project as "bird hunting." I told the folks I worked closely with that that project reminded me of bird hunting in heavy cover... You sometimes got so tangled up in the thorns and vines that you couldn't move forward and you couldn't move backwards and you ended up bleeding... It got so bad sometimes that you felt like you wanted to sit down and cry!🤣 For the actual hunting I eventually started carrying pruning shears in my hunting vest so I could cut my way out if needed... For the initiative I kept digging to find and fix the problems with the database and SPSS code I inherited... I had to stop the bleeding somehow! BTW, I worked as an 18th century gunsmith in another life too. 😉
@@KevinsDisobedience really no need to do that. They really only strike if severely threatened. Not a bad idea to wear gaters and high boots if you are rolling logs around though.
It was under a piece of sheet metal I picked up. I know you’re right, but I didn’t want it breeding around the property. I just can’t risk getting bitten.
I'm so glad to see you talk about
hand eye coordination and muscle memory. They both play a huge role in accuracy.
My crooked double bit proves it for me.
Loving the videos as always dude!
It really deserves a video itself, but that’s all I had the energy for lol. Double’s can be hard to get both bits straight, as the eye needs to be punched perfectly, and the bits need to be ground perfectly. I’ve found they often aren’t.
Totally agree with you on the short handles. I'm 6'4" and anything over 30" I have no control. Keep up doing exactly what you're doing my chopping and sharpening has improved greatly since finding your videos. Thanks. Also I like the philosophical interjections
Sorry just seeing this but thanks for the kind words. At your height 30” is my 28”. Thanks
Great review!
Thanks Killer. Just my honest opinion as I experience it. Can’t ask a guy for much more, right?
@@KevinsDisobedience that's what makes it great! You dont let your emotions get in the way of what your truly experiencing.
Amazing view at 7:30, where the cut has sunk to the center of the tree but still hasn't thrown any chips.
Also congrats Kevin, you have nearly twice the subscribers since I subbed!
Thanks, I was happy to stop at that point to show rather than tell what I’d been experiencing. And yes, I’m grateful for all of you guys following me.
Great stuff as always Kevin. One thing I will say, when bucking you want to get your feet as close as possible to the log (standing on the log whenever possible). It will give you the ability to better use your power and places you in a better position to cut through the bottom wood. The farther your feet are from the log, the less efficient you will be (near vertical chopping). Sometimes when bucking i am so close to the log my toes are touching it. I believe this is also the reason why racing axe handles are relatively short, they allow the axman to use maximum power, be more accurate, and be in an advantageous position relative to the log. Thank you for all of your awesome content.
You’re definitely right about feet placement for more arch. I personally just don’t feel comfortable with it, especially standing on the log. But you’re right.
I got one of these for my birthday last year and I absolutely love love it! It's is my work horse thru the winter for sure! Thanks so much for sharing! Cheers, Kimmers and Jerbs #neverquitquitting #beup #DSKFS 👍🏼🇺🇸🔥🔪🔥🇨🇦👍🏼
I’m glad you like it. I never got on with it at all, but I gave it to a friend who competes in timber sports and he loves it as a practice axe.
@@KevinsDisobedience absolutely dig it...its an older one so it's a good one...splits great...whoever had it before me put an amazing splitting edge on it so the fir we burn doesn't stand a chance! Doesn't have timber sports handle on it and has 34" and I believe was a fire/forestry workers old painted handle still...but yeah keep up the awesomeness bruv! Cheers, Jerbs 🇺🇸🔪🇨🇦
I think it's gorgeous Kevin. I've never tried a 26ish inch on anything over 2.5lb, but would be interested in it. To get it to throw chips better in that dense, stringy maple, I think a slight hollow in the area of the logo to the edge of your file work would suffice. Also a 28 or 29 inch handle to increase your finishing torque slightly. But like you said, it would probably be really good for larger bucking tasks as well as larger limbs. Axes like that I have found really crave ever increasing velocity towards the bottom 3rd of the swing; so with that being said I'd like to see you try the ""timbersport" type swing you were experimenting with prior to your injury in larger wood with this axe
Give it a try. And thanks for the suggestions. As for the Timber Sports swing, it ain’t for me. I’ve been modeling my swing more after the Basque racers who reach the axe higher to the sky and have a quick arc down. Thanks
Been thinking of tuning this axe some more. How would you suggest going about the hollow? Grinder or just take my time with a stone over time?
@@KevinsDisobedience your best bet would be to use a grinder. Flap disc or resin disc with a flat backing are the best options for removing material quickly, but obviously make sure she doesn't get too hot. Then a right angle die grinder works great for sanding out the marks. Definitely go a little at a time, testing in some wood until you like the end product. Also, wait to remove the sanding marks until you like how it releases from the wood. The stain that certain woods leave on your axe are good indicators as to where you might need to take more material out. If you need any more info, get in touch with Owen. I'll give him my number to send to you
Ask Owen to give you my #
I think the thing about the Arvika is how gorgeous it is. You kind of talk yourself out of its faults. Hmmmmm its sticky. But look at it, its gorgeous! Hmmmm..........Ive better axes at home. But look how gorgeous it is! I stayed with my middle wife waaaaay to long for pretty much the same reason. Plus, there's an Arvika Cult. Id say at least half of the AirB&B's I've book in rural Sweden have one knocking about in the yard, shed, woodstore. And they are standard. No thinning of the handles, no regrinding of the fat convex edge. I mean, ive watched your and Bens videos pointing out the faults with this axe. Ive got "better" axes. Heck I've got a stunning classic vintage GB i got off Owen Jarvis. It'll do far more then my skills can. But I'm still getting an Arvika for myself for Christmas....................Why? Because its frigging gorgeous.
You said it. Pretty as hell, like your second wife lol. I gave it to VintageAxehoarder, and he loves it for standing block 🤷♀️. Just sharing my experience is all.
Another great video Kevin. As far as the head weight/ handle length ratio, I find it to be less about balance and more about the size of the wood being chopped. I use a heavier head on larger wood. And most of the time I'm standing on the larger logs using the underhand chop method. The longer handle length helps with the extra reached needed in this situation. Having said that I tend to keep my max length at 30 inches to help keep accuracy in line. When bucking on the ground however, the 28 inch is king.
Everything you said resonates with my experience, only I don’t stand on the log and chop, ever. I think it’s a risky technique, and if the log’s big enough to stand on it’s going to be more efficient to use a saw. But when we’re just practicing or having fun I’d suggest a pair of chain mail socks. One glance on top of the log and you’ve got a lot to lose. I think Ben prefers 30” handles when underhand chopping as well.
I agree I think balance is important if your standing on a springboard but not really the first thing to worry about for a bucking axe
I think I like this axe a lot more than you do lmao. I took it out today. Rolled the edge right of the bat. Micro bevel fixed that issue. Other than that, i really enjoyed using it.
That’s why I wanted you to have it. It’s made for big wood, which I don’t chop. Plz enjoy it
Great insight, I agree with you about the shorter handles, im not a big guy and I have alot of trouble controlling a 3 1/2 pound axe head on a 32 in 36 in handle yet no trouble with a 28 inch or shorter handle. Great video!
Once you try it you know what I’m going on about, but when you’re still splitting wood with a full size axe and you see a 4.5lb head on a tiny handle it looks silly. You can’t understand why anyone would do that. Then you start chopping, forget the handle length almost immediately, and start hitting what you’re aiming for. Thanks!
Maaaate, easy one of your best vids. Great discussion on hand/eye, muscle memory. At 11.05 it showed the alignment issue very well. My thoughts is that unless your cutting logs with radii more than 2-3 times the bit length ( which on this axe will probably result in a scalloped or scooped cut) it's not that much of an issue. I'm about to head to the loggers camp for some Sunday choppin, so this vid was a perfect kick in the backside to get out there. AWESOME! Also agree on the handle lenght thing. On say a 36, I'd go a lighter head for more speed than a heavier head for more punch.
Thanks Kurt, this one was fun to make. I enjoy interacting with the community. It helps me clarify my thoughts on the issues at hand. Enjoy camp tomorrow! I’ve also wanted to put a 2.5lb head on a 36” handle and give it a whip. I bet it’d be quite fun to swing. Thanks for watching, brother. Can’t wait for your next upload!
@@KevinsDisobedience cheers mate!
idk if this was already on the table but "Kevin rambling about" as a channel name has a nice ring to it and it doesn't lock you in a category ... if you really feeling to change it (as i wouldn't just a side note).
Thanks, I haven’t decided yet, but I those it in the mix.
"Now that the tarp's up it stopped raining." Every. Single. Time. Nice to see you chopping again. It seems like your experience with the Arvika (not popping chips) is pretty common, so I'd say it's not you, it's the axe.
Isn’t it always the case lol. Last week I thought I’ll just hide under the canopy and it’ll stop raining soon, but nope-got soaked.
Technique on point
Thanks, I’m getting back in the groove again.
Good looking axe! +1 on shorter handles. +1 on longer cutting edge. My fav is a 3.,5# council tool Jersey with the bevels. Came on s 32" handle, now on a 28" handle. About a 5.25 cutting edge. Handles great.
28” feels about right on everything, doesn’t it? Im glad you enjoyed the vid. Thanks for commenting.
I’ve been meaning to get the newer Arvika. I have the older one from the 60s with the 5 stars across the poll and man is it a beauty. I always thought of it more as a Connie than a Tassie.
Yeah, it’s definitely thinner like a Connie. I just don’t have Tassie for comparison. Looking though 😉
Nice presentation 👏! Does this axe come with a head cover?
Thanks, no it doesn’t come with a sheath.
Did you weigh yours? My total axe, out of the box, is 2550g , it lacks 200g. So i read before some had had weight issues...are they ALL underweight?
I agree, misaligned axes can be used, but i do really hate them
I didn’t, unfortunately, and I traded it to a friend for a vintage Michigan, but he really likes it. He rehung it, as that was a really exaggerated hang. Obviously better if perfectly in line, but kicked just to the side of the center isn’t a game changer. Thanks for commenting.
Great video Kevin most enjoyable one yet...wonder maybe when the bit wears back it could perform better just cause its so long and thin.
Thanks, I enjoyed making this one a lot. I suspect you need to take an 1.5” off of it to make it pop chips in green hardwood, so probably won’t happen in my lifetime unless I do it on purpose. That said, I’m not done with this axe yet. I think it would make a great cured wood axe.
@@KevinsDisobedience looking forward to seeing what you think after a little more use...keep up the good videos👌
Good video, crooked axes dont make a difference on 1 or two hit logs, but ive found chopping the bigger stuff or when you switch regularly they are annoying
I can see that. I can also see it causing some minor issues when felling, as it’s like a goddamn hewing axe it’s so bad, so it will definitely add up over time. Fortunately for me, anything big enough to need three cuts with that beast is getting cut with a saw.
I'm not going to be talking shit about Hults Bruk saying they can't make a good axe. But damn man, I felt my frustration rising seeing you wiggle and wrenching that sucker up free from the cuts. I have a couple of flat cheeked mexican collins axes, my first purchases, that do the same in green wood, and you pointed out as much with that arvika as well. I love my wide convex plumb and kelly woodslasher jerseys for what you're doing. Or any axe with good high centerline convex cheeks.
Yeah all that wiggling is tiring as hell. I think they modeled this axe after a racing axe from the side, which is why it’s so pretty, but what they overlooked is the fact that racing axes are long and fat, not long and thin. It would basically mean adding another 1lb or more to this axe-hence the 6lb racing axe.
@@KevinsDisobedience Even just a couple of extra millimeters added to the cheeks would probably make a difference. Adding extra head weight isn't much of an obstacle once your axe is on a shorter than average handle. My heaviest head is a six pound true temper pick head axe on a 30.5 inch handle. It's heavy but not much of a problem too pick up. Another example is a 4 3/4 pound plumb rafting axe on a 30 inch oak stick. On a full sized handle I don't think I would be keen on picking up and dealing with those big clunkers. Using the axes then would be more a chore. 💪
Hi Kevin!!😀😀
The Arika is a really sweet axe. But I'm way too tall to be able to have anything less than a 28 to 30 inch handle in it. Anything shorter and I have to bend over way too much to chop with it. A 26 inch or shorter is what I consider to be a hatchet. LOL!! I really prefer a 32 inch at the shortest for chopping of any kind.
Take care my friend!!😀😀
Logger Al
I don’t think it has a lot to do with height. I’m 6’. But it does mean you have to bend at the waist. But 28-30” are good sizes! Thanks for watching.
Anecdotally I want the maximum length handle no matter the axe weight I want to split wood on the ground bending over as little as possible and being 6.3 might have something to do with it. Also buckin' loves the arvika so I might have to give it a try
If you’re going to split wood, you definitely want a longer handle and you definitely don’t want this axe. Go for a true Tassie. As Buckin says it’s all about the geometry.
I wish those were still available.
Hey Keith, sorry just seeing this. You can still find them around. Contact Marc Leblanc on Axe Junkies. He’ll get you one.
@@KevinsDisobedience I would have to have Facebook and messenger to do that. And every time I load Facebook, it's screws up my phone. It looks like HB stoped production of the Arvika. And the Tassie is priced too high for my budget.
Oh now they are back in stock but the price went up to $200. No more $79 Arvicas.
I think you are "axe myth buster":).
That’s never been my intention. Some guys get mad at me because they think I’m purposely disliking popular axes. But anybody can see my experience. I’m not hiding it or anything.
Im beginning to wonder if the only reason for a longer handle is reach
I reckon that to reap the full advantages of a longer handle you need to put more work into every swing AND need sustained extreme accuracy. This would result in less swings per minute for the same output and a more measured pace of work. I reckon these skills would only be attained by somebody felling 5 or 6 days a week year in, year out. For us lesser mortals shorter handles are far more efficient in the main part due to better accuracy
Basically what Grizz said. I have two videos dedicated to handles. If you haven’t seen them and are genuinely curious about the subject, check them out. But in short, handles started getting smaller as trees got smaller. Once the first growth giants were felled-which required extra reach and leverage in order to fell the tree in a timely manner-30” handles on 3lb heads became much more common.
I like the looks of it, but probably won't buy one. Also: I find shorter handles make accuracy easier, and a slightly crooked axe head makes no difference.
It is pretty and suspect in soft wood or in cured wood it would be quite a good cutter. As for bit alignment, it makes a slight difference but is easily overcome.
Nice shirt 😂
Do you know the guy? He’s a friggin legend.
First!
Wow, you were quick. I didn’t even have a chance to click on it after uploading lol. Thanks as always for the support.
Greatest bromance in axe history
@@jacoblarahughes9566 haha!🤣🤣🤣
whats the correct way to measure a bevel with one of those round gauges? i have one,but im not sure if im using it correctly.
Sorry just seeing this. So basically if the metal fills up the cutout and allows the point to exit the apex that’s the angle of the cutting edge. Good question…it’s actually not as accurate as we’re led believe.
I think the tip of the edge has to be in the middle of the hole. then its the propper angle.
👍👍👍
Glad you enjoyed, buddy. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. Mens a lot.
Handle length is so subjective..but as a framer and hammer swinger for most my life.. when titanium heads hit the market..most pros..switched to the them..for good reason..less weight on a longer handle got you the same power with much more accuracy..I'm sure everyone has their sweet spot..but heavier head on a shorter handle is almost always gonna be more accurate which his gonna be more efficient...just my opinion..of course
Gotta agree with u there mate. My fave hammer is a Stanley 14oz mig, and it will drive anything, without pulling the tool belt down!
I’ve been eyeing those titanium hammers since they’ve come out. I started in concrete and when I started we knocked together forms in the field with nails and hammer. But if I’m honest, I have seen a nail (outside of a nail gun) on a construction site in I don’t know how long. My hammer hangs on my belt in case I need a door stop, or sometimes to tap something into place. One of my guys has a $150 Stiletto (gorgeous thing)! We call it his earring, because it hangs from his belt like a piece of jewelry. I still want one though lol.
Yes the 14oz framer is nice on the belt..any weight reduction helps tons..easier on the back
Hey kevin. Im curious, do you film these videos on your own property? Im having trouble getting access to wood. Cut down 8 trees on my property and the only ones left are too dangerous. Is there a permit i can get that would allow me to recover dead wood from local forests? I really need to find some wood to stay in the game. I have about a cord total chopped and stacked. But i need more! Lol
Wow! A cord already! You’re killing it! And yes, I’m fortunate. This is on my place. But my suggestion to you is to talk to some farmers. Give them your number. Very often if you explain what you’re doing they will allow you to take home windfall, and some may even let you thin out overgrown forests. Also, after windstorms your can take a ride around and see if any trees fell into open fields where the farmer will be glad to get rid of. Beyond that, I’d just find some parks or roadsides where you can pull up with a truck, find some downed trees, cut some lengths with a saw and load them up. Who’s going to bother you? And if they do, just play dumb. All you’re doing is taking a log off the ground. Better to ask forgiveness later than permission fist. But ask the farmers or property owners. They may be able to help you out. Good luck!
Gday Billy, Kevin's spot on about asking a local farmer, and you could try contacting some local tree loppers as well, they may set aside some logs as long as you can pick them up quickly. Not sure if it works the same in other countries, but here in Aus we can apply for a firewood collection permit from our local State Forests department. We're not allowed to fell trees, but can harvest dead timber off the ground. If you keep your eye on logging operations in your forests, you may even be able to get recently felled green timber that would be ideal for axe work. Exposed tracks along ridgelines are a good place to find windblown stuff. Also gives you an excuse to grab some maps and check out some new country! Good job on the cord
@@KevinsDisobedience thanks for the reply! And yes i have a cord. Dimensions are 9 feet long, 4 feet wide and 4 feet high. I reckon thats alittle over a cord?
@@KevinsDisobedience i also have a trailer that would be perfect for loading logs. Just gotta find some!
Yep, you’re a little over. Killing it!
Try a convex edge on the Arvika
Thanks, might have just been the wood. Traded it to a buddy of mine. He likes it okay for big wood.
do you think the arvika is better than the agdor tasmanian?
Haven’t had the pleasure of using the Tasmanian. But I think any true Tassie is definitely better than this.
@@KevinsDisobedience gotcha. I think I'll go with the hb agdor tassie and ill just thin the handle it comes with.
I always encourage all my girlfriends to experiment with my shorter handle!!!
Hehehe…Cup!
for you the handle is too short, im 5'7 its perfect for me
I considered the Arvika 5 Star and opted for Council Tool Velvicut Felling Axe for several reasons. With a 4 lb head it's comparable in weight, but I think that the similarities end there. The 5160 steel and CT's heat treatment are superior to HB's C50, though it's good. The Velvicut's geometry is designed for popping those chips and it's a splitter, too. IMHO, Council Tool gives more quality for less money and all sourced and MADE IN THE USA. That's why I own six CT's and one HB. All European axes are overpriced in the US. Buy American when it's the best.
I agree that CT gives you more value for less. I know nothing about steel, so I can’t comment on that.
“Kevin Back in the Woods” that’s your new channel name!
or 'Kevin ... just startin' to rain' ?
I’ve actually consider it. If all I did was woodsy stuff, I’d probably go with it, but I like to do shop stuff too. Haven’t made up my mind yet. I have a few new ideas I’m kicking around as well.
Right that’s true. Awesome content man. I like to here the knowledge but also KNOW that it is coming from you own experience like you said. There are people in UA-cam land that just memorize “An Axe to Grind” before an axe video and that is their knowledge. Good to see there are still people actually putting in the work! And I appreciate it!
@@KevinsDisobedience When I mentioned that a few weeks back I conceptualized the word "woods" broadly... Used as a metaphor it can apply to the actual woods, the shop, the farm fields, house renovations, etc. Basically anything that gives you challenges and joy.
For example, in a prior life I was an analyst at a research company. I had a huge juvenile crime prevention initiative in the state of CA in my project portfolio. In-house I referred to working on that project as "bird hunting." I told the folks I worked closely with that that project reminded me of bird hunting in heavy cover... You sometimes got so tangled up in the thorns and vines that you couldn't move forward and you couldn't move backwards and you ended up bleeding... It got so bad sometimes that you felt like you wanted to sit down and cry!🤣 For the actual hunting I eventually started carrying pruning shears in my hunting vest so I could cut my way out if needed... For the initiative I kept digging to find and fix the problems with the database and SPSS code I inherited... I had to stop the bleeding somehow!
BTW, I worked as an 18th century gunsmith in another life too. 😉
Maybe it will work better at popping the chips out if you stand on the other side of the log... the whole northern vs. southern hemisphere thing. 😉
Lol that’s about sums up some of the comments I got. Everything but the axes problem.
I re-handle axes for a hobby and I don't use any handles over 32". 36 is too long for practical use.
Agreed, 32” is pretty much the max, and even 32” feels long for me now that I’ve started to experiment with shorter handles.
ever seen any copperheads under those logs?
Only once in my life. Chopped its head of with a garden hoe.
@@KevinsDisobedience really no need to do that. They really only strike if severely threatened. Not a bad idea to wear gaters and high boots if you are rolling logs around though.
It was under a piece of sheet metal I picked up. I know you’re right, but I didn’t want it breeding around the property. I just can’t risk getting bitten.
The arvika is a mediocre splitter, the tazmanian helko is better.
Yeah, Tassies do everything well
Great review!
Thanks, man