Red Earth is PR112-PY42-PR102, so of course it will be lighter and more saturated, you just mixed napthol red and yellow ochre. My vote would be the English Red 100%
Something I would love to see in these videos is a shot of the dried paint film (i.e. whether it is a matte or gloss finish) and mention of the drying time. Thanks for the videos.
Thank you for your feedback @davidc1878. That is good input! We will consider it. Not necessarily the easiest features to show. Especially the drying time is very relative and variable since it depends on all kinds of different factors, like room temperature, humidity, ventilation/oxygen, amount of applied paint/thickness of paint film, and medium or oil used to the specific colour. But up till now we didn't consider it at all, so thank you for bringing it to our attention! Best Lennaert
Hi @AlexYorim, Thank you for the input! First, we have several other colors planned. We will be comparing two different Sienna's soon, also. For now, we'll consider your proposal. Best Lennaert
I think I will replace my cad red by the this red earth. For landscape. For figure and portrait I do fine with both Venetian and English reds and occasional Indian red as well
Great to see you back! Is there a guide somewhere to what warm/cool, strong/muted, etc. mean in painting? I have watched all of the videos in the series but am not getting it. Even more difficult is understanding the undertones, like yellow/brownish/etc. in some of the mixes here. Maybe it needs to be seen "in real life"?
Dear @jeanbigboute, thank you for your question. Don't worry, it's completely normal that this can be difficult at first. Concepts such as 'muted/saturated' or 'tinting strength' can be quite confusing. But with some practice, you can get the hang of it quite quickly. In any case, these are fixed concepts that do not depend on interpretation. Concepts such as 'warm/cool' and 'reading undertones' are much more difficult because they do not refer to absolute values. They are always relative and dependent on other colors. It has never been scientifically determined that 'this is the warmest color', 'this is the coolest' and the others are somewhere in between. But the use of these words does come from a very practical natural phenomenon: Warm light on an object produces cool shadows, and cool light on an object produces warm shadows. That's a good starting point that you can work with. If you want to delve deeper into it, I can recommend the following book: Alla Prima 2, by Richard Schmid. He really knows how to explain and show it. But because I get this question very, very often, we will certainly consider whether we will dedicate a video to it. Hope this helps, Best Lennaert
Hi @louiswolfe5012, Thank you for the input! First, we have several other colors planned. We will be comparing Scheveningen Blue vs King's Blue Deep, also. For now, we'll consider your proposal. Best Lennaert
You guys made it :D
Thank you!!! Thank you for using our colours!!!!
Hi @lrvz7187, You're so welcome! Thank you for the good suggestion, it was a lot of fun to make the video! Keep on painting! Best Len
I love these videos... thanks for making another one.
Thank you. Keep following our channel!
Thank you @davidc1878, that is good to hear! Best Len
Very helpful comparison!
Red Earth is PR112-PY42-PR102, so of course it will be lighter and more saturated, you just mixed napthol red and yellow ochre. My vote would be the English Red 100%
Something I would love to see in these videos is a shot of the dried paint film (i.e. whether it is a matte or gloss finish) and mention of the drying time. Thanks for the videos.
Thank you for your feedback @davidc1878. That is good input! We will consider it. Not necessarily the easiest features to show. Especially the drying time is very relative and variable since it depends on all kinds of different factors, like room temperature, humidity, ventilation/oxygen, amount of applied paint/thickness of paint film, and medium or oil used to the specific colour. But up till now we didn't consider it at all, so thank you for bringing it to our attention! Best Lennaert
Thank you for your job!
You are welcome!
Red earth for those nice pinks.
Can you do yellow ochre vs raw sienna soon?
Thank you for your input! All ideas are welcome!
Hi @AlexYorim, Thank you for the input! First, we have several other colors planned. We will be comparing two different Sienna's soon, also. For now, we'll consider your proposal. Best Lennaert
I think I will replace my cad red by the this red earth. For landscape. For figure and portrait I do fine with both Venetian and English reds and occasional Indian red as well
I've just received Raw umber, green cadmium deep and english red.
Great to see you back! Is there a guide somewhere to what warm/cool, strong/muted, etc. mean in painting? I have watched all of the videos in the series but am not getting it. Even more difficult is understanding the undertones, like yellow/brownish/etc. in some of the mixes here. Maybe it needs to be seen "in real life"?
Thank you for following us. We do not have such a guide. But we will discuss it within the company. Good idea to make it.
Dear @jeanbigboute, thank you for your question. Don't worry, it's completely normal that this can be difficult at first.
Concepts such as 'muted/saturated' or 'tinting strength' can be quite confusing. But with some practice, you can get the hang of it quite quickly. In any case, these are fixed concepts that do not depend on interpretation.
Concepts such as 'warm/cool' and 'reading undertones' are much more difficult because they do not refer to absolute values. They are always relative and dependent on other colors. It has never been scientifically determined that 'this is the warmest color', 'this is the coolest' and the others are somewhere in between. But the use of these words does come from a very practical natural phenomenon: Warm light on an object produces cool shadows, and cool light on an object produces warm shadows. That's a good starting point that you can work with.
If you want to delve deeper into it, I can recommend the following book: Alla Prima 2, by Richard Schmid. He really knows how to explain and show it.
But because I get this question very, very often, we will certainly consider whether we will dedicate a video to it. Hope this helps, Best Lennaert
@@LennaertKoormanThank you for the tips and the reference! I will look into lighting and also for the book.
@@oldhollandclassiccolours2759I appreciate it, thank you!
Thank you, it was very interesting and useful!
you are wecome!
Thanks @ muhlenstedt! Good to hear!
Love these
Wish i could get some paints
Can you do alizarin crimson vs magenta next?
And
Parisian blue vs blue deep
Thank you for your input!
Thank you! We will see if we can make it.@@louiswolfe5012
Hi @louiswolfe5012, Thank you for the input! First, we have several other colors planned. We will be comparing Scheveningen Blue vs King's Blue Deep, also. For now, we'll consider your proposal. Best Lennaert
@@LennaertKoorman you're welcome