Thanks for making this video! I'm thinking about making some ball joints for my projects. I don't think I would make the ball joint opening the same diameter as the ball. Instead, I think I'd make it 9/10ths the diameter to start with so that it doesn't fall out as easily. The socket opening could be made even smaller if a relief cut was made vertically into the ball to allow the ball to compress a little bit while inserting it into the socket. I think that shrinking the second bigger cut into the socket by 0.5 would help make the joint tighter. Joint tightness can be improved with the application of floor polish to the joint, provided the clearances are good enough.
For sure, main purpose of the video is for the general idea, clearance and fit definitely depends on the type of project you’re doing! Best of luck on the project!
you would be surprised as well as to what a little heat gun will do :) did a huge version of the IRON GIANT and the heat gun was so very helpful.. the whole robot was articulated and fun as hell to print...
for my 3d balljoint i went with not-printed-in-place and making the base so you can insert the ball / rod in from below, then thread in a ball sized cap with a curved inner surface, and as you tighten that back cap inward, it torques the ball down tighter in the joint, so you can adjust tension. Works pretty great? I had good results with my resin printer and fairly tight tolerances.
@@ManarchanyGaming yeah that was a bit of an issue with the first iteration, then I adjusted the design some to countersink the cap just a bit so there's a little room for adjustment as needed. Once it's mounted on whatever it's going on that cap is hidden. Probably a piece of foam between the cap and the base attachment point would be good ot prevent it from ever coming loose, but I haven't bothered with that yet, it stays pretty snug anyways.
@@Vampiric_Kai Thanks, hey bonus tip: there's a kind of shower curtain ring you can get, usually called 'roller ball shower curtain rings', and they each have 5 or 6 pre-drilled metal bearings you can take off and use for ball joints, super handy, cheap and very strong and smooth.
To make it stay in place during printing ensure there is minimal separation between the “socket” and the “ball” The ball should be designed within the socket but have a gap large enough for about 1 layer line of a 3D printer (approximately 0.1 - 0.2mm) depending on your printer settings
4 cuts could be made to increase flexibility. Still, it’s easier to pop out. Printing in place using folding supports would probably be the strongest and easiest thing to do
A few applications for this type of design: It’s really good for parts that you want to have motion but don’t want to come apart, 3D printing allows you to manufacture that way which you wouldn’t be able to do using traditional methods. Another application would be if you were to make a design like this in larger quantities it would eliminate the labor hours needed to assemble the parts. Hope this helps!
Is there any way I can download this file (specifically the print in place, I tried to make my own joints but the first didn't move and the second spaghettified, this file would be super useful for me as I plan to make many articulated prints
Hello, it has nothing to do with the video, but could you help me with something? I'm having trouble making life-size Murder Drones figures. My problem is with the characters' faces, as I don't know what to do to make them have multiple expressions without having to recreate the face several times, can anyone help me with this?
You could have the eyes/mouth portion coming from a LCD screen. You could also have multiple facial expressions on different parts of the head so if you want to change expression you can rotate the head, kinda like some Lego characters have. Hope some of these ideas are helpful
I’m getting interested into 40k and 3d printing so I plan on trying to make an action figure but Im in 7th grade and have football (we all know that one dad) so I have almost no free time and probably won’t be able to do it, but thanks for the video anyways!
This won’t be the video for that, look into this one, I’ve made a few action figure styles using this kind of joint and had lots of success ua-cam.com/video/12lq8g0mia0/v-deo.htmlsi=vCbSxyc6Pensi7a-
I also have another video that if you played with the tolerance of the design you could get some pretty good friction fits Designing 3D Printable ball and socket joints | Fusion 360 | 3D Printing | Print in Place ua-cam.com/video/gZUgoZ-w4QY/v-deo.html
![[LATE REQUEST] HTM: Pingu Outro Effects 4 (my version) [ID: SDJ04MN-2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EjjXiUZO7iY/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for making this video! I'm thinking about making some ball joints for my projects. I don't think I would make the ball joint opening the same diameter as the ball. Instead, I think I'd make it 9/10ths the diameter to start with so that it doesn't fall out as easily. The socket opening could be made even smaller if a relief cut was made vertically into the ball to allow the ball to compress a little bit while inserting it into the socket. I think that shrinking the second bigger cut into the socket by 0.5 would help make the joint tighter. Joint tightness can be improved with the application of floor polish to the joint, provided the clearances are good enough.
For sure, main purpose of the video is for the general idea, clearance and fit definitely depends on the type of project you’re doing!
Best of luck on the project!
you would be surprised as well as to what a little heat gun will do :) did a huge version of the IRON GIANT and the heat gun was so very helpful.. the whole robot was articulated and fun as hell to print...
for my 3d balljoint i went with not-printed-in-place and making the base so you can insert the ball / rod in from below, then thread in a ball sized cap with a curved inner surface, and as you tighten that back cap inward, it torques the ball down tighter in the joint, so you can adjust tension. Works pretty great? I had good results with my resin printer and fairly tight tolerances.
That's pretty cool. It's a good design as long as the screw is flush inside the joint.
That's pretty smart! Gonna keep this in mind for my project.
@@ManarchanyGaming yeah that was a bit of an issue with the first iteration, then I adjusted the design some to countersink the cap just a bit so there's a little room for adjustment as needed. Once it's mounted on whatever it's going on that cap is hidden. Probably a piece of foam between the cap and the base attachment point would be good ot prevent it from ever coming loose, but I haven't bothered with that yet, it stays pretty snug anyways.
@@Vampiric_Kai Thanks, hey bonus tip: there's a kind of shower curtain ring you can get, usually called 'roller ball shower curtain rings', and they each have 5 or 6 pre-drilled metal bearings you can take off and use for ball joints, super handy, cheap and very strong and smooth.
This is exactly what i needed, thanks for the video!
This will help me with the action figures I wanna make soon.
Great video .. straight forward and to the point...Still relevant in 2022.... love it.. liked and sub'd
Great and helpful video. A question i have is how would i then make the socket stay in place for the one printed as one
To make it stay in place during printing ensure there is minimal separation between the “socket” and the “ball”
The ball should be designed within the socket but have a gap large enough for about 1 layer line of a 3D printer (approximately 0.1 - 0.2mm) depending on your printer settings
4 cuts could be made to increase flexibility. Still, it’s easier to pop out. Printing in place using folding supports would probably be the strongest and easiest thing to do
Yes thank you been searching for this answer
Thank you!
I tried to make the one where there is no support, but flashprint keeps deleting the inner ball joint and not printing it. What should I do?
Hi, I was just wondering if your joint design was available to purchase please?
Nice!
would you have any practical applications for this?
A few applications for this type of design:
It’s really good for parts that you want to have motion but don’t want to come apart, 3D printing allows you to manufacture that way which you wouldn’t be able to do using traditional methods.
Another application would be if you were to make a design like this in larger quantities it would eliminate the labor hours needed to assemble the parts.
Hope this helps!
Is there any way I can download this file (specifically the print in place, I tried to make my own joints but the first didn't move and the second spaghettified, this file would be super useful for me as I plan to make many articulated prints
Sorry I don’t have this design published anywhere and didn’t save on my computer it as it was only for demonstration purposes
@@engineer3d Thanks for responding, although, do you have the design for any other ball joints?
I have a few other random ball joints. None that are print in place and stackable though
Hello, it has nothing to do with the video, but could you help me with something? I'm having trouble making life-size Murder Drones figures. My problem is with the characters' faces, as I don't know what to do to make them have multiple expressions without having to recreate the face several times, can anyone help me with this?
You could have the eyes/mouth portion coming from a LCD screen. You could also have multiple facial expressions on different parts of the head so if you want to change expression you can rotate the head, kinda like some Lego characters have.
Hope some of these ideas are helpful
Needs more upspeak
I’m getting interested into 40k and 3d printing so I plan on trying to make an action figure but Im in 7th grade and have football (we all know that one dad) so I have almost no free time and probably won’t be able to do it, but thanks for the video anyways!
Yeah I’ll probably just insert the ball joints into the sliced model and use a ton of force to snap them in
Did it work out for your project? My print in place joints got quite loose.
@@Loosecannon16 no, but thanks for asking! I did make a ceramic plate though!
I wish you'd gone into the steps of doing it.
I just want to make an action figure ball socket joint and have enough friction that its poseable. None of this "loosey goosey" clearance bs.
This won’t be the video for that, look into this one, I’ve made a few action figure styles using this kind of joint and had lots of success ua-cam.com/video/12lq8g0mia0/v-deo.htmlsi=vCbSxyc6Pensi7a-
I also have another video that if you played with the tolerance of the design you could get some pretty good friction fits Designing 3D Printable ball and socket joints | Fusion 360 | 3D Printing | Print in Place
ua-cam.com/video/gZUgoZ-w4QY/v-deo.html