I was dreading this job after watching this video! I needed to change the alternator on my LR3 and much easier job if the fan is off. I got lucky - it loosened first try with the right tools. Thanks for the step by step guide.
I haven't even purchased my LR3 yet, but learning all I can from your all your LR3 videos so I can reference it when I have to perform these same repairs on my own. Thank you very much!!
I did this job this afternoon. I was ready for a battle after watching yours and another video. I was getting ready to make my own tools. Took me about an hour in the end. My fan clutch had been off before and you can see where it had been whacked with a punch on 3 of the edges. One good tap on my adjustable wrench and it started moving! Woo hoo!!
Man I gotta take mine off next week when parts arrive, water pump, plastic thermostat housing, and clutch fan & both belts, Land Rover wanted $5600, I brought all parts for $350, Thanks for the belt diagram and if my pulleys are bad I will replace also, Thanks again for video
I ran into the same issue then ordered the wrenches which were noted in my handbook. It literally took me 10 minutes to take the bolt off. Up until this point I fought it for a day and broke my long screw driver, being used to wedge the bolts. Best $50 bucks I spent.
Great video, refreshing to hear from somebody also flummoxed by this. I also spent hours and was considering drilling out, but finally tried something I saw mentioned once - taking an air hammer and just blasting the nut directly for about 5-10s. To my complete shock, that unfroze it and the nut spun off incredibly easy. For anybody else's last resort, give it a shot (air hammers are pretty cheap).
Even just tapping the nut even with a hammer and chisel is a good go to unfreeze it, you need to break the corrosion. I saw my mechanic take it off in like 15 minutes, by whacking it with a hammer and chisel 5-6 times and using the big fan wrench to break it. As a job it was worth it to have the mechanic do it, i brought him the belts and I think he charged me $100, I was doing control arms so maybe he cut me a break. It's a good video, but fighting with anything for 8 hrs just isn't worth it if a mechanic can do the same job in an hour or so. Guys who do it all the time know all the tricks and have the right tools!
EXCELLENT!!! I empathize with you, it took me a day and half to take off my Fan clutch, though I wasn’t as clever as you; drilling it. I ended up dismantling the system as a whole. It was a royal pain taking the bolt off without it being attached to the engine
Hi yours is the Petrol, mine is the 2007 tdv6 diesel similar system i’ve Made a universal tool to lock the fan, it took me an hour to make then attach to an old jack handle big saving in the long run as it was free. Did the same with my 36mm wrench which gives the leverage to release the nut. Shame I can’t include a photo? Worth the effort as you need to take the fan off for quite a lot of service operations, put a bit of copper grease on the threads when reassembling makes it much easier in the future. Stuart from U.K.
Another great video Ox! Sadly for these older Discoverys it's best practice to carry extra parts for those "just in case" moments. For my 2001 Discovery 2 I've got an extra serp belt, MAF, crankshaft position sensor, brake sensor switch and a whole fuse/relay assembly box... just in case. lol FYI... A tool that has helped me immensely is the Nanocom Evolution diagnostic tool. It has a crazy price for it but it has helped out on my Disco V8 and few friend's TD5 Discos. It paid itself off in a month since it corrected issues that we didn't have to go to a Land Rover garage to get fixed which would have cost us more money. The Nanocom saves time and money!
Nice video. Just a note that the 2.7 diesel and the 4.4 petrol engines have a left hand thread, so your video is correct to loosen the nut to the right. The 4.0 petrol however is right handed thread and you have to loosen the nut to the left.
Thank you very much for posting this video; I learned a lot from it and all the comments. One thing that might help someone else, is to post the year of your LR3, in the description, title... somewhere. Given that every few years LR is changing engines, I wasn't sure if you had the BMW or the Jag motor. Thanks again; keep up the good work!
Bro you should have called me, in my shop we can remove the fan clutch in less than 10mins with a simple 36mm open end wrench and a small sledge hammer. It's all about the strike and using the belt in your favor. In your case with no belt, we use a crow bar and small block of wood to wedge in between the clutch and frame.
Great video brother I got a question if fan clutch on my Range Rover sport 2009 4.4 makes this loud wind blowing noise when taking off but goes away after 2k rpm do u think I need a new fan clutch? I have 95k miles
This is an excellent video -- thank you very much! The thread of the fan "nut" (for lack of a better term) was DIFFERENT on my truck so I thought I would add that detail. I removed my fan from a 2006 Range Rover L322 Supercharged (4.2 Jaguar engine) just a few hours ago. The fan “nut” has a conventional, right-hand thread, and loosened counter-clockwise (that is, “lefty loosey”) when at the front of the truck facing the rear (the only way you can position yourself to actually work on the fan). Your fan "nut" was the opposite (which is what I tried initially). Obviously, YMMV and JLR may have changed the threads from year to year and model to model and S/C may be different from NA, but “lefty loosey” worked for me!
Great video! You're an excellent communicator on camera. I'm going under the hood because I discovered a coolant leak - and it's coming from the thermostat housing, from the hose at the bottom that goes to the expansion tank. I have a different scenario - a 4.2L V8 Supercharged (my fan unscrews to the LEFT) - and I'm taking the opportunity to do more comprehensive service. One of the things I had wondered is if my viscous fan clutch was failing: I've had reduced gas mileage lately AND a fan roar at times that I hadn't noticed before. Yours looks like it spins quite freely when cold. Mine doesn't; it's quite stiff. I'm wondering if that explains my reduced mileage. I've got to replace my supercharger coupler, belts, spark plugs and the same pulleys you did. I'm wondering if I should replace the water pump at the same time (184k miles). I'm torn, because it ain't broke - but I don't want to have to get in here ever again EITHER! 😂
Please help me out I have a Range Rover sport 2008 supercharged the fan spins towards left When the cars on left if facing the the fan witch way do I turn the 36mm bolt to loosen it up I keep getting told different things and I seen that it’s different when supercharged
Hi, I have a problem with my Land Rover LR3 2005. I changed the radiator, thermostat and water pump. I thought it was done but when I started it and I pushed the gas the temperature was increasing until over heating if I don't push the gas it is going down the temperature again so How Do I know if the fan clutch is bad? Does The fan clutch have two speed?
excellent video! Greetings, installed a new fan clutch motor but i can still stop the fan with cardboard? you think is the belt routing 2011RRs? the pulley behind the fan motor goes over or under the pulley?
Thanks for this video. Is there any way to test the viscous coupling of the fan, to tell if it needs replacing? When you spun the new fan I think you spun it on the electrical connector side, which isn't the side that takes the load and becomes stiffer as temperature increases. I'm having an issue where the fan seems a bit stiff even when the car is cold, so it cools the engine too much. Im not sure how much the fan should spin freely when the car is cold and the engine is off? I'm not sure if this is due to the electronics making it stiffer or whether the viscous coupling is failing. I think the fan coupling stiffens when it gets hot or when it gets an electronic signal?...
That is an excellent question. I did notice spinning the brand new one from the old one it did feel a little stiffer. Besides having both of them in your hand and spending both at the same time I don't really know how you test them. But there was a difference from the new one. I'll do a little research and see what I could come up with. Thanks for watching.
Great Video OX. I also have an LR3. I recently started getting notifications on instrument that reads, "HDC FAULT SYSTEM NOT AVAILABLE." Then dings again and reads, "SYSTEM FAULT SPECIAL PROGRAMS NOT AVAILABLE." Then 1 more ding, and "SPECIAL PROGRAMS OFF." Then reads,"SUSPENSION LOWERED." The vehicle then lowers to the lowest setting to the ground. Can you PLEASE help!! This happens every few minutes while driving and vehicle lowers to the ground level. I have to pull over then shut off ignition and turn back on to reset vehicle and it raises to driving level. Can you guide me in the right direction to fix this issue? PLEASE! Thank you!
Check where the wiring harness runs along the passenger side door (us car) sil under the carpet etc. The wiring sits in a channel that will accumulate water. The water will corrode and in many cases sever a connection. That was my issue...found a severed wire that would intermittently lose connection triggering the faults you describe. Havent had an issue since.
I really like owning a Land Rover. They are very versatile vehicles that offer comfort, room, and style. But, they can be very expensive to fix. That is why I upload all the ways I have maintained mine. If you can do the work yourself you will love the Rover. I personally don't see me not owning one for years to come. Here is a link on how you can arrange the seats. But, to answer your question yes all the seats are independent of each other. ua-cam.com/video/SeTqZIFQAaA/v-deo.html
Hello again. Lucky you didn't suffer any engine damage from that broken belt. How many miles on that one? Hope you also changed the small belt. A lot of Land Rover people are recommending the IID scanner from Gap Diagnostics. Much cheaper than a Nanocom.
Hey oxymaagain great video and what's your opinion I'm looking to buy a 2006 Lr3 you could find them in great condition and there are not expensive and the pubic opinions would also be great
I don't believe you can get either belt off without removing the fan. The fan belt is too small and the large auxiliary belt is trapped behind the casting which holds the fan pulley drive.
I'm presently dealing with replacementing my radiator. I've got the radiator Completely loosened and have been struggling for hours trying to remove the FAN CLUTCH. IT FEELS AS IF ITS WELDED ON.
All cars break down a lot, the problem with a Land Rover is it just cost a lot when it needs to be fixed. But I haven't had any major problems besides just doing general maintenance. What I like to do is go check the Carfax and you will find that a lot of Land Rovers reached 200,000 miles with no problem.
Only haters hate. Even if that was true there's no need to get personal. Maybe, just maybe, you can do this job without taking the fan off but it's easy with it off. PS learn how to use the English language properly.
You cannot change the water pump drive belt with the fan in place so knowing how to remove the fan clutch is useful. Trying to route the serpentine belt with the fan in place would not be fun.
Went to Land Rover for engine light, my code reader said PO2098 Post Cat fuel trim too lean bank 2, data screen says 127 misfires on cylinder #8, They wanted $1566 to replace spark plugs and perform fuel system service, to start, diag fee $193.00. Stopped and bought iridium plugs for $46 set and $5 can of throttle body spray, watched your video 📹 and was done in 2 hours, test drove and code came back but still got my cheese 🧀!!!! Will let you know what I find when I figure it out.
After reading what you said I think it would be to your advantage to put one of those poor and fuel system cleaners in because that should mimic what the dealer was going to do with their fuel treatment.
Here is a video I made where I talk about poor and field treatment system cleaners and which one I think works the best. ua-cam.com/video/M1nxt8RtYIU/v-deo.html
My last comment on bumping engine won't work because i believe engine runs same direction as you loosen fan clutch but on American engine that method will work
Didnt like how you removed it all. Next time just heat it up for about 10 seconds with a cheap butane torch from local home depot or walmart. You'll have it off in 10 more seconds after that. Just have jug of water available incase you light something up on fire. I used the scissor looking tool to hold 2 of the 3 bolts on pulley and then used a larger crescent I have. If your crescent doesnt fit, just make it a bit thinner by grinding it little thinner. Also remember with fan clutch nuts, they always loosen the way the fan blades turn. Just look at the blade angle. I bet you tightened yours those first 8 hours and that's why you had trouble..
Looks like you should have used a pneumatic with an air chisel and it probably would have walked it right off. Sometimes you have to be smarter than the stupid engineer that designed it.
I agree with you wholeheartedly. That's one of the hardest things I've ever done and I was seeing a lot of bad words as I was trying to get it off. Thanks for the comment.
With all that work you had to do to get to the belts, i would have just replaced the belt tensioners while i had all of that apart instead of just the pulley.
If you did know there is a much easier way to remove fan clutch without any damage place your fan clutch on a hard surface on frame as other end is on fan clutch get in car bump engine over slightly BUT DO NOT CRANK ENGINE IMPORTANT SET this will loosen nut works every time old mechanic trick
I was dreading this job after watching this video! I needed to change the alternator on my LR3 and much easier job if the fan is off. I got lucky - it loosened first try with the right tools. Thanks for the step by step guide.
Interesting, I recently did my alternator from under the vehicle. I just released the main belt at the primary and it was pretty simple..
I haven't even purchased my LR3 yet, but learning all I can from your all your LR3 videos so I can reference it when I have to perform these same repairs on my own. Thank you very much!!
If you ever have any questions feel free to ask.
@@oxmanagain Thank you.
Me too!
I did this job this afternoon. I was ready for a battle after watching yours and another video. I was getting ready to make my own tools. Took me about an hour in the end. My fan clutch had been off before and you can see where it had been whacked with a punch on 3 of the edges. One good tap on my adjustable wrench and it started moving! Woo hoo!!
Man I gotta take mine off next week when parts arrive, water pump, plastic thermostat housing, and clutch fan & both belts, Land Rover wanted $5600,
I brought all parts for $350, Thanks for the belt diagram and if my pulleys are bad I will replace also, Thanks again for video
Good video on this job
I ran into the same issue then ordered the wrenches which were noted in my handbook. It literally took me 10 minutes to take the bolt off. Up until this point I fought it for a day and broke my long screw driver, being used to wedge the bolts. Best $50 bucks I spent.
Great video, refreshing to hear from somebody also flummoxed by this. I also spent hours and was considering drilling out, but finally tried something I saw mentioned once - taking an air hammer and just blasting the nut directly for about 5-10s. To my complete shock, that unfroze it and the nut spun off incredibly easy. For anybody else's last resort, give it a shot (air hammers are pretty cheap).
Even just tapping the nut even with a hammer and chisel is a good go to unfreeze it, you need to break the corrosion. I saw my mechanic take it off in like 15 minutes, by whacking it with a hammer and chisel 5-6 times and using the big fan wrench to break it. As a job it was worth it to have the mechanic do it, i brought him the belts and I think he charged me $100, I was doing control arms so maybe he cut me a break. It's a good video, but fighting with anything for 8 hrs just isn't worth it if a mechanic can do the same job in an hour or so. Guys who do it all the time know all the tricks and have the right tools!
EXCELLENT!!! I empathize with you, it took me a day and half to take off my Fan clutch, though I wasn’t as clever as you; drilling it. I ended up dismantling the system as a whole. It was a royal pain taking the bolt off without it being attached to the engine
That was something else but at least you did it and saved some money.
I didn't even need to replace my LR4 belt... but I still watched the video just in case. Hahaha. Another great video, thanks for taking the time.
I really appreciate your support and I like your name considering we have the same. You have a good one and again thanks.
Hi yours is the Petrol, mine is the 2007 tdv6 diesel similar system i’ve Made a universal tool to lock the fan, it took me an hour to make then attach to an old jack handle big saving in the long run as it was free. Did the same with my 36mm wrench which gives the leverage to release the nut. Shame I can’t include a photo? Worth the effort as you need to take the fan off for quite a lot of service operations, put a bit of copper grease on the threads when reassembling makes it much easier in the future. Stuart from U.K.
Thanks for the post.
Another great video Ox! Sadly for these older Discoverys it's best practice to carry extra parts for those "just in case" moments. For my 2001 Discovery 2 I've got an extra serp belt, MAF, crankshaft position sensor, brake sensor switch and a whole fuse/relay assembly box... just in case. lol FYI... A tool that has helped me immensely is the Nanocom Evolution diagnostic tool. It has a crazy price for it but it has helped out on my Disco V8 and few friend's TD5 Discos. It paid itself off in a month since it corrected issues that we didn't have to go to a Land Rover garage to get fixed which would have cost us more money. The Nanocom saves time and money!
Thanks for the tip. I will be looking for one of those. As usual I appreciate your support.
nice good to see you stayed with it and got it done. good video .It's learning man , the more you know .
Excellent VIDEO. Huge help. Thank you.
Nice video. Just a note that the 2.7 diesel and the 4.4 petrol engines have a left hand thread, so your video is correct to loosen the nut to the right. The 4.0 petrol however is right handed thread and you have to loosen the nut to the left.
Thank you very much for posting this video; I learned a lot from it and all the comments. One thing that might help someone else, is to post the year of your LR3, in the description, title... somewhere. Given that every few years LR is changing engines, I wasn't sure if you had the BMW or the Jag motor. Thanks again; keep up the good work!
Great point and thanks for watching. 2008 V8 se
Thanks, really good instructions.
I love your videos.
Easy-to-use and understanding 👌
Thank you,
God bless 🙏
Bro you should have called me, in my shop we can remove the fan clutch in less than 10mins with a simple 36mm open end wrench and a small sledge hammer. It's all about the strike and using the belt in your favor. In your case with no belt, we use a crow bar and small block of wood to wedge in between the clutch and frame.
sick vid man.
helpful
Great video brother I got a question if fan clutch on my Range Rover sport 2009 4.4 makes this loud wind blowing noise when taking off but goes away after 2k rpm do u think I need a new fan clutch? I have 95k miles
It would be something I would keep an eye on.
Eu estava sem dever como resolver isso nesse Rover, você resolveu o meu problema, parabéns.
Great 👨🔧👩🔧👨🔧
This is an excellent video -- thank you very much! The thread of the fan "nut" (for lack of a better term) was DIFFERENT on my truck so I thought I would add that detail.
I removed my fan from a 2006 Range Rover L322 Supercharged (4.2 Jaguar engine) just a few hours ago. The fan “nut” has a conventional, right-hand thread, and loosened counter-clockwise (that is, “lefty loosey”) when at the front of the truck facing the rear (the only way you can position yourself to actually work on the fan).
Your fan "nut" was the opposite (which is what I tried initially). Obviously, YMMV and JLR may have changed the threads from year to year and model to model and S/C may be different from NA, but “lefty loosey” worked for me!
These vids are always amazing
You're welcome and thanks for all of your support.
Great video! You're an excellent communicator on camera.
I'm going under the hood because I discovered a coolant leak - and it's coming from the thermostat housing, from the hose at the bottom that goes to the expansion tank. I have a different scenario - a 4.2L V8 Supercharged (my fan unscrews to the LEFT) - and I'm taking the opportunity to do more comprehensive service. One of the things I had wondered is if my viscous fan clutch was failing: I've had reduced gas mileage lately AND a fan roar at times that I hadn't noticed before. Yours looks like it spins quite freely when cold. Mine doesn't; it's quite stiff. I'm wondering if that explains my reduced mileage. I've got to replace my supercharger coupler, belts, spark plugs and the same pulleys you did.
I'm wondering if I should replace the water pump at the same time (184k miles). I'm torn, because it ain't broke - but I don't want to have to get in here ever again EITHER! 😂
I 100% agree. I will say this. It won't take have as long because you know the right steps. But I still agree. Thanks for watching.
Please help me out I have a Range Rover sport 2008 supercharged the fan spins towards left When the cars on left if facing the the fan witch way do I turn the 36mm bolt to loosen it up I keep getting told different things and I seen that it’s different when supercharged
For anyone watching. I work on these and use a Lisle Fan clutch kit for use with an air hammer. they always come right off.
I have a 2006 range rover sport and I start the engine and it works but when the fan starts the engine turns off, could you help me with this?
Hi, I have a problem with my Land Rover LR3 2005. I changed the radiator, thermostat and water pump. I thought it was done but when I started it and I pushed the gas the temperature was increasing until over heating if I don't push the gas it is going down the temperature again so How Do I know if the fan clutch is bad? Does The fan clutch have two speed?
Really helpful vid! Thanks.
excellent video! Greetings, installed a new fan clutch motor but i can still stop the fan with cardboard? you think is the belt routing 2011RRs? the pulley behind the fan motor goes over or under the pulley?
Let me do a little research.
Thanks for this video. Is there any way to test the viscous coupling of the fan, to tell if it needs replacing? When you spun the new fan I think you spun it on the electrical connector side, which isn't the side that takes the load and becomes stiffer as temperature increases. I'm having an issue where the fan seems a bit stiff even when the car is cold, so it cools the engine too much. Im not sure how much the fan should spin freely when the car is cold and the engine is off? I'm not sure if this is due to the electronics making it stiffer or whether the viscous coupling is failing. I think the fan coupling stiffens when it gets hot or when it gets an electronic signal?...
That is an excellent question. I did notice spinning the brand new one from the old one it did feel a little stiffer. Besides having both of them in your hand and spending both at the same time I don't really know how you test them. But there was a difference from the new one. I'll do a little research and see what I could come up with. Thanks for watching.
I have a problem when my brother pressed the accelerator pedal annoying sound
Great Video OX. I also have an LR3. I recently started getting notifications on instrument that reads, "HDC FAULT SYSTEM NOT AVAILABLE." Then dings again and reads, "SYSTEM FAULT SPECIAL PROGRAMS NOT AVAILABLE." Then 1 more ding, and "SPECIAL PROGRAMS OFF." Then reads,"SUSPENSION LOWERED." The vehicle then lowers to the lowest setting to the ground. Can you PLEASE help!! This happens every few minutes while driving and vehicle lowers to the ground level. I have to pull over then shut off ignition and turn back on to reset vehicle and it raises to driving level. Can you guide me in the right direction to fix this issue? PLEASE! Thank you!
I was doing a little research, you might want to look into the terrain response control switch or your height adjust sensor.
Check where the wiring harness runs along the passenger side door (us car) sil under the carpet etc. The wiring sits in a channel that will accumulate water. The water will corrode and in many cases sever a connection. That was my issue...found a severed wire that would intermittently lose connection triggering the faults you describe. Havent had an issue since.
Hey is it possible to remove the middle seat in the second row so it could be like captain chairs
I really like owning a Land Rover. They are very versatile vehicles that offer comfort, room, and style. But, they can be very expensive to fix. That is why I upload all the ways I have maintained mine. If you can do the work yourself you will love the Rover. I personally don't see me not owning one for years to come. Here is a link on how you can arrange the seats. But, to answer your question yes all the seats are independent of each other. ua-cam.com/video/SeTqZIFQAaA/v-deo.html
Thanks for your great video! The boys at Powerful UK (youtubers) have tools available for purchase which they had laser cut for the job.
Hello again. Lucky you didn't suffer any engine damage from that broken belt. How many miles on that one? Hope you also changed the small belt.
A lot of Land Rover people are recommending the IID scanner from Gap Diagnostics. Much cheaper than a Nanocom.
After the belt broke I pulled over pretty fast. I had over 100k miles on the belt and thanks for the tip.
@@oxmanagain 100K Miles is probably max for those belts. I would change them at 75K to be safe but looks like a bit of a job.
It was a monster job but in the end, it was worth it. Now I know.
Hey oxymaagain great video and what's your opinion I'm looking to buy a 2006 Lr3 you could find them in great condition and there are not expensive and the pubic opinions would also be great
Hey, you can get the belt on and off with the fan in place. Tricky knuckle cutting job, but saves some hassle.
If you can then I definitely would try it your way.
I don't believe you can get either belt off without removing the fan. The fan belt is too small and the large auxiliary belt is trapped behind the casting which holds the fan pulley drive.
I'm presently dealing with replacementing my radiator. I've got the radiator Completely loosened and have been struggling for hours trying to remove the FAN CLUTCH. IT FEELS AS IF ITS WELDED ON.
It took me hours to get that stupid thing off. I feel your pain.
I added a link in the comment below to the way that I resolved this issue.
Easy way to get the fan nut off on a land rover or even bmw's just use a chisel and a hammer and hit it.
Works ever time. Shock it
brother it's true that this car spoils a lot?
All cars break down a lot, the problem with a Land Rover is it just cost a lot when it needs to be fixed. But I haven't had any major problems besides just doing general maintenance. What I like to do is go check the Carfax and you will find that a lot of Land Rovers reached 200,000 miles with no problem.
Thank you
You're welcome and feel free to ask me as many questions as you would like. You have a nice day.
@@oxmanagain mine is a 2006 Disco3, its currently @241,000 miles and hungry for more miles.
That is impressive and I bet you have loved all those miles.
Greetings Oxmanagain, how to install the secondary belts?
Did chuckle at this guy there is no need to take fan of to replace belt!!
Only haters hate. Even if that was true there's no need to get personal. Maybe, just maybe, you can do this job without taking the fan off but it's easy with it off. PS learn how to use the English language properly.
You cannot change the water pump drive belt with the fan in place so knowing how to remove the fan clutch is useful. Trying to route the serpentine belt with the fan in place would not be fun.
Don´t tighten the screw nut so strong! Thx for the good Video.
I had the same problem when replacing my radiator, I ended up removing the the front end
You should have used heat on the fan clutch. Mine was not coming off like yours so I used a torch and off it came.
Went to Land Rover for engine light, my code reader said PO2098 Post Cat fuel trim too lean bank 2, data screen says 127 misfires on cylinder #8, They wanted $1566 to replace spark plugs and perform fuel system service, to start, diag fee $193.00. Stopped and bought iridium plugs for $46 set and $5 can of throttle body spray, watched your video 📹 and was done in 2 hours, test drove and code came back but still got my cheese 🧀!!!! Will let you know what I find when I figure it out.
After reading what you said I think it would be to your advantage to put one of those poor and fuel system cleaners in because that should mimic what the dealer was going to do with their fuel treatment.
Here is a video I made where I talk about poor and field treatment system cleaners and which one I think works the best.
ua-cam.com/video/M1nxt8RtYIU/v-deo.html
@@oxmanagain I sold my Range Rover HSE Sport
@@keithcheatham4410 what did you get?
@@oxmanagain 2008 Cadillac Escalade EXT
Dang, I have an 06 L320 not looking forward to struggling with that fan lol
I hope you have better luck than I did.
My last comment on bumping engine won't work because i believe engine runs same direction as you loosen fan clutch but on American engine that method will work
How do you know if your car is U.S.? ._.
With the vin number. If it starts with 1,4, or 5. It’s from the us
Your vin can be on door or windshield
Never , ever , ever tighten the viscous hub with any tool when you are reinstalling .
Should only ever be spun on snug .
It should be torqued to 65nm as per manual. With your suggestion the fan can come loose and spinning into the radiator.
@@tiev12 you feel free follow the Land Rover Manual , I'll follow what is right 👍
Didnt like how you removed it all. Next time just heat it up for about 10 seconds with a cheap butane torch from local home depot or walmart. You'll have it off in 10 more seconds after that. Just have jug of water available incase you light something up on fire. I used the scissor looking tool to hold 2 of the 3 bolts on pulley and then used a larger crescent I have. If your crescent doesnt fit, just make it a bit thinner by grinding it little thinner. Also remember with fan clutch nuts, they always loosen the way the fan blades turn. Just look at the blade angle. I bet you tightened yours those first 8 hours and that's why you had trouble..
No I was turning it correct the entire time. It was just on there that tight it wouldn't come off.
Looks like you should have used a pneumatic with an air chisel and it probably would have walked it right off. Sometimes you have to be smarter than the stupid engineer that designed it.
I agree with you wholeheartedly. That's one of the hardest things I've ever done and I was seeing a lot of bad words as I was trying to get it off. Thanks for the comment.
With all that work you had to do to get to the belts, i would have just replaced the belt tensioners while i had all of that apart instead of just the pulley.
Not the answer I wanted to hear lmao
B
If you did know there is a much easier way to remove fan clutch without any damage place your fan clutch on a hard surface on frame as other end is on fan clutch get in car bump engine over slightly BUT DO NOT CRANK ENGINE IMPORTANT SET this will loosen nut works every time old mechanic trick