Great detailed video. one tip though, torque the thrust arm with the wheels on the surface so it’s sitting right when the weight is on it, otherwise it will be always in stress and you’ll go through bushings really easy.
You dont have to do this, you just need to torque the bushing end with the arm at the proper angle as if it were on the ground. For example, the lower control arm needs to be held at a 90 degree angle while torquing it in the air, making it at the proper angle like it were at rest on the ground.
You do not have to put weight on the wheel before torquing, you just have to make sure the bushing end is torqued with the arm at the resting position's angle. For example, the lower control arm can be changed while in the air but it needs to be held at a 90 degree angle while torquing it, which makes it simulate the angle it sits at while under weight on the ground.
The torque spec for the bushing end is definitely not "infinite" as you hyperbolically said at around 9:06. The proper spec is about 80 ft/lbs + 120-180 degrees. Additionally to all the "experts" in the comments: You do not have to put weight on the wheel before torquing, you just have to make sure the bushing end is torqued with the arm at the resting position's angle. For example, the lower control arm can be changed while in the air but it needs to be held at a 90 degree angle while torquing it, which makes it simulate the angle it sits at while under weight on the ground.
Good video. I am replacing all the components of the passenger side. the driver side was done a few months ago by someone else. It looks easy enough for me. Tie rods as well. I watched your video. As someone pointed out I torque the nuts once I put weight on the wheel.
You do not have to put weight on the wheel before torquing, you just have to make sure the bushing end is torqued with the arm at the resting position's angle. For example, the lower control arm can be changed while in the air but it needs to be held at a 90 degree angle while torquing it, which makes it simulate the angle it sits at while under weight on the ground.
Hey thanks for your video! I wanted to ask how are the thrust arms holding up? Been debating between OE quality arms from FCP Euro or TRQ from eBay lol I'm at 160k miles on mine and the ball joint squeaking is bugging me. Thank you!
Hey man! I ended up selling the w211 and bought a w251 R500. It was holding well when I sold. It definitely does bot have the same durability as OEM. But if you are DIYing and not paying labor, it's certainly worth it.
You do not have to put weight on the wheel before torquing, you just have to make sure the bushing end is torqued with the arm at the resting position's angle. For example, the lower control arm can be changed while in the air but it needs to be held at a 90 degree angle while torquing it, which makes it simulate the angle it sits at while under weight on the ground.
Yet another incorrect video about replacing these arms! You MUST tighten the opposite end to the ball joint with the bushing loaded (ie with the weight of the car on it) otherwise you will just tear up the new bushing! 😡
You do not have to put weight on the wheel before torquing, you just have to make sure the bushing end is torqued with the arm at the resting position's angle. For example, the lower control arm can be changed while in the air but it needs to be held at a 90 degree angle while torquing it, which makes it simulate the angle it sits at while under weight on the ground. Maybe spend less time acting like you know it all and maybe learn something.
![How to change a front shock strut on MERCEDES-BENZ (W211) E-Class [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/xl4L9EzhkWQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Great detailed video. one tip though, torque the thrust arm with the wheels on the surface so it’s sitting right when the weight is on it, otherwise it will be always in stress and you’ll go through bushings really easy.
Good point. I’ll retorque them one of these days
You dont have to do this, you just need to torque the bushing end with the arm at the proper angle as if it were on the ground. For example, the lower control arm needs to be held at a 90 degree angle while torquing it in the air, making it at the proper angle like it were at rest on the ground.
You may want to check when to tighten the thrust arm on the chassis. I believe it must be done under load, in other words, tires on ground.
U are absolutely right! Doing the way I did might cause premature wear
You do not have to put weight on the wheel before torquing, you just have to make sure the bushing end is torqued with the arm at the resting position's angle. For example, the lower control arm can be changed while in the air but it needs to be held at a 90 degree angle while torquing it, which makes it simulate the angle it sits at while under weight on the ground.
The torque spec for the bushing end is definitely not "infinite" as you hyperbolically said at around 9:06. The proper spec is about 80 ft/lbs + 120-180 degrees.
Additionally to all the "experts" in the comments: You do not have to put weight on the wheel before torquing, you just have to make sure the bushing end is torqued with the arm at the resting position's angle. For example, the lower control arm can be changed while in the air but it needs to be held at a 90 degree angle while torquing it, which makes it simulate the angle it sits at while under weight on the ground.
Thanks
Good video. I am replacing all the components of the passenger side. the driver side was done a few months ago by someone else. It looks easy enough for me. Tie rods as well. I watched your video. As someone pointed out I torque the nuts once I put weight on the wheel.
Thanks! Good luck
You do not have to put weight on the wheel before torquing, you just have to make sure the bushing end is torqued with the arm at the resting position's angle. For example, the lower control arm can be changed while in the air but it needs to be held at a 90 degree angle while torquing it, which makes it simulate the angle it sits at while under weight on the ground.
Nice! 21mm is key to the heart of merc suspension.
Hey thanks for your video! I wanted to ask how are the thrust arms holding up? Been debating between OE quality arms from FCP Euro or TRQ from eBay lol I'm at 160k miles on mine and the ball joint squeaking is bugging me. Thank you!
Hey man! I ended up selling the w211 and bought a w251 R500. It was holding well when I sold. It definitely does bot have the same durability as OEM. But if you are DIYing and not paying labor, it's certainly worth it.
@@dcfgarage Thanks for your input! I will be considering aftermarket ones because it's literally half the cost!
Big thrust arm nut 80Nm+120'. Torque should be under load or you'll tear rubber parts , drive weird, and get noises.
Thanks for the tip!
You do not have to put weight on the wheel before torquing, you just have to make sure the bushing end is torqued with the arm at the resting position's angle. For example, the lower control arm can be changed while in the air but it needs to be held at a 90 degree angle while torquing it, which makes it simulate the angle it sits at while under weight on the ground.
Thank you!!!
Yet another incorrect video about replacing these arms!
You MUST tighten the opposite end to the ball joint with the bushing loaded (ie with the weight of the car on it) otherwise you will just tear up the new bushing! 😡
You do not have to put weight on the wheel before torquing, you just have to make sure the bushing end is torqued with the arm at the resting position's angle. For example, the lower control arm can be changed while in the air but it needs to be held at a 90 degree angle while torquing it, which makes it simulate the angle it sits at while under weight on the ground.
Maybe spend less time acting like you know it all and maybe learn something.