My C/A Glue Finishing Method
Вставка
- Опубліковано 10 лют 2025
- I get asked all the time about how I do my C/A finish on pens to give them that high gloss look.
Tonight I was making several pens and I decided to do a video in real time explaining my process.
Regards,
Bob
Non Stick Bushing Video: • Make your own Non Stic...
Facebook: / 992853487406788
E-Mail: RJBWoodturner@yahoo.com
Be sure to check out my second channel, WhatchaDoinBob, it’s a VLOG about what I’m doing at any given time. / whatchadoinbob
That painter's tape tip is super! Why didn't I think of that?!? 😉
Glad you liked it Michael. It’s probably saves me a little skin over the years. 😀
Regards,
Bob
One of the best pen turners always explains really well eady yo understand and always always a beautiful work
Thank you Cesar.
Regards,
Bob
I love the grain on that wood.. and the reddish color too. Thanks for showing us this. I too had a problem with C/A finish. I couldn’t really get it right. But I think I got it now. Thanks RJB!
Thank you Jorge.
Regards,
Bob
Excellent presentation Bob.Thanks for sharing.
Thank you Don.
Regards,
Bob
Nicely shown Bob
Scott
+MrSkooty1968 Thank you.
Bob
Thank you for showing uses who you sander the blank thank Nathan
Hello Nathan,
You are welcome. 😁
Regards,
Bob
Incredible video. Fantastic and clear explanations, product recommendations, covering every single step. So thorough, and what a beautiful result!
Thank you John.
Regards,
Bob
Nicely done, Bob!!!
+Bob Stembridge Thank you Bob.
Bob
The best video I've seen on CA finishing. Well done!
+Connie van der Walt Thank you Connie.
Regards,
Bob
Another very nicely done video. Love how you take the time to step through each process. Keep them coming please.
+Roger Ratze Thank you Roger.
Regards,
Bob
This is about the method I settled on. Mostly from watching you and a few others. I like to do 3 light weight coats and 3 medium coats. The reason for the extra coat is sometimes the finish dries up a little faster and leaves a ripple in the finish, or the ends get a little heavy. I then go back over it with 320grit 3M sandpaper to smooth and even it I have tried other sandpaper brands but the 3M does a much better smoother job. I then proceed with the sponges. I finish it with 3M headlight polish. $6 in the auto section. The finish is like glass and durable!! Love you videos. I have really gotten an education here. Now I have to work on my marketing and presentation.
+Swartz Robert Thank you Robert,
I like the idea of headlight polish and plan to switch to and try it when I run out of the HUT polish. I especially like the price.
Bob
Bob I really appreciate the detail you put into your videos, keep up the good work!
+matt carrescia Thank you Matt.
Regards,
Bob
Great vid. Bob . Nice job showing everything in such detail . Take care.
+glen mckelvey Thank you Glen,
It was time I made this video. I've been asked probably 20 times.
Bob
Thanks for sharing
😃
Well done Bob
+Robert Evans Thank you Robert.
Bob
Great video thanks.
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
Hey Bob. I was having trouble with dull areas on a pen I was making out of padouk. I was going to ask you why this was happening but watched the video again and my question was answered. I thought I was doing something wrong with the micromesh sanding pads (that I just purchased) but apparently I did not let the blank dry fully after using the DNA. thanks for being thorough with your explanations, I need to be more thorough with my listening...lol. thanks again, Brad
+Brad Soulchin Thank you for the note Brad, I'm very happy that my video was helpful.
Regards,
Bob
Great job and great video
Thank you Adam.
Regards,
Bob
Hi Bob, enjoyed your video and found it very informative. The only thing I would like to comment on, is once you have cleaned the blanks with the denatured alcohol you should avoid touching them with your hands, this also apply s between CA coats.
+Bob Pace Thank you Bob,
I purchased some latex gloves to wear, hopefully that will help.
Bob
Thanks for taking the time to make and share this video. As you mentioned, there are many ways to do this. But problems arise, and solutions present themselves. I can see a wide variety of experience and related solutions encapsulated in this single video.
FWIW, I'm going next to your Non Stick bushing video. My biggest issue with CA finish on pens right now is cracking along the bushings, and it's driving me crazy!
+Barry's Woodturning Hello Barry,
You'll love the non stick bushings. The glue releases from them and leaves the little fingernail which I sand away. I haven't cracked a pen since I started using them.
In the video, I say to drill a 7mm hole in the HDPE, you may try 1/4" first to see how you like the fit. If it's to tight, you can move to 7mm.
Also, UHMW works just as well as HDPE and is about half the cost. Many people have started melting milk jugs into blobs and turning bushings from them. It's a little more work but your material is free.
Regards,
Bob
Thank you Bob, Another great instructional video.
+Andrew Morrissette Thank you Andrew.
Bob
Bob -- Thank you for this and all your other instructional videos. My process is similar to yours and works well for me. A couple of comments: 1st, CA is affected by humidity. This is one of the reasons I think each turner needs to learn what works in their shop. What works in the dry deserts of Arizona may need a little adjusting to work well in Mississippi. 2nd, you might try wet sanding your wooden pens with walnut oil or BLO. Both oils are compatible with a CA finish. No dust to breathe and the sanding goes faster.
Please, keep up the good work.
+David Walser Hello David,
Thank you for the tip on the oil, I'll pick some up and give it a try.
Your dead on about the humidity, I didn't even think to mention that. This time of year, I have no problem with C/A settings get up but come winter, it's a nightmare.
Bob
Awesome information, Thank you
Thank you Lee.
Regards,
Bob
Thanks for sharing Bob. You just showed me why my CA finish isn't working. Thanks again, Fred
+Fred Graber Thank you Fred.
Regards,
Bob
Thanks Bob, next time please show us how you assemble the pen too.....have a great one x
+Val Borchardt Will do Val.
Regards,
Bob
Glad to see im doing it the same way as you Bob. I put more layers of c/a glue. Great video Bob.
+Willmore's World Of Wood Thank you,
I use to put more and still do for specialty pens but I've found this number to work quite well for most of the pens I make. It's best to watch the wood and see if it needs more C/A. You'll be able to tell because the surface won't be smooth.
Regards,
Bob
Excellent tutorial and love your method :)
Thank you Simon.
Regards,
Bob
thanks Bob for breaking the procedure down. your video was very informative
+Opa's Workshop Thank you Opa.
Regards,
Bob
Very good video. I just watched 3 videos on CA finish and the first 2 were were pretty awful, but this video was great. I am too lazy to bother with changing the bushings to the plastic ones, I just use the metal ones and lightly run my skew over the tips at the end to release the blanks from them. I also use a much finer grit for sanding the ends because I have had problems with chipping in the past. I have never bothered with a plastic polish, I use micromesh and it seems to create a shine by the time I am through with all the pads.
Hello Jillian,
It’s all about finding what works in your shop and it sounds like you have a great process for finishing pens.
Regards,
Bob
I like the painters tape idea. I made the mistake of wearing rubber gloves recently...luckily I still have all my fingers.
I’ve ruined more than one pen wearing rubber gloves. That tape method works very well.
Regards,
Bob
Thanks Bob, great information!!!!! Thanks for sharing . BobLee 😃😃😃😃
+Robert E. Lee / Bob Lee's woodshop Thank you Bob.
I can't tell you how many times I've been asked to do this video. Usually I don't think about it until it's too late. Making such a large number of pens at once has opened up the opportunity for me to take care of a little old business like this.
Regards,
Bob
Thanks , that's where I have the most problems is finishing the pen to get a good look. Your vid really helpful!!
Thank you Dennis.
Regards,
Bob
One of the hardest things I have had to do is get a flawed CA coating off an expensive exotic stabilized blank and uber-expensive pen kit with a Schwartzki Crystal adorned screew-off cap that was turned to utter perfection remove an absolute minimum amount of wood. I like how the CA finish will wear forever but it feels like plastic to me and I like a pen to patina to the oils of its owner.
Hello Brian,
I agree about the plastic looking finish, I’ve been looking for a alternative that offers a more natural look with a decent protection.
I’m not a huge fan of the natural patina as many times it looks grungy. I’ve seen a few that look nice and fit the pen but more often than not I just feel like I wouldn’t want to touch it.
It’s a fine line and hopefully one of these days we’ll find a happy medium.
Thank you for commenting, I always love hearing other turners opinions.
Regards,
Bob
Hi Bob, thanks a lot for this tutorial... excellent for a beginner like me. All your vids are great. Greetings from Germany.
+Joe Schmidt Thank you Joe.
Regards,
Bob
Thank you for this! I've tried glue coats before and it didn't go over well before. I had gone too slow, didn't use denatured alcohol (I'll need to pick it up), and was just using thin, not wood finish glue.
+Bob Rogers Thank you Bill,
It does make a difference on the glue being for finishing versus regular glue. I'm guessing it's a formulation thing, not real sure but I learned this the hard way.
Regards,
Bob
Excelente!! He aprendido mucho con su vídeo y su método para el acabado. Muchas gracias por sus permanentes aportes para nosotros. Saludos
+Raúl Daniel Zanuttini Thank you Very Much.
Regards,
Bob
What I like to do is use a piece of black electrical tape...it only takes one layer of it, at the end of my mandrel...far enough back to allow the piece to fit at least half way on the mandrel. Push your finished blank piece on the end so it sticks well enough to spin when you turn on the lathe. Then use a fine grit...400,600 to sand off those little fingernails of CA glue. It works well for me.
Great idea Pike,
Thank you for sharing.
Regards,
Bob
I use Meguiar's Plastx (simply because I had some) and then finish with Carnauba paste wax. Works good. When I run out I may try a specialty product just to see if it makes any difference.
+Tenspeed TheBikeHanger I have heard great things about that Plastex. It's twice as much for half the price and I have seen fellow turners achieve premium results with it. Don't waist your money on a specialty product. Send me your address in a PM and I'll pour some if my polish in a small container and send it to you. You can test and let me know how it works. I have been saying when this bottle runs out, I'm buying Plastex. Your results will help me make that decision.
Bob
What grit lands did you use for the final finish. Great instruction.
12,000 Grit.
Hi Bob, I’ve just started using foam craft squares to apply my ca finish. Works great, uses less ca, as it’s not soaking in like paper towel and goes on super smooth. I’m sure you’ve used it. What are your thoughts? Regards Grant
Ive used it, only issue I have is I always have paper towels, I have to make a special trip for the craft foam and I never remember it.
Regards,
Bob
This video is hitting the spot! I have had it with friction polish. It hurts my hands and I cannot get a glossy finish that I'm after.
Sanding: Great tips on sanding technique. I especially like the advice to keep moving...I put some really deep scratches in one of my pens by holding my sandpaper still...live and learn.
Question #1: can you think of a specific situation where you use 600 grit? You say you rarely use it and I'm curious when you find yourself reaching for the 600.
Question #2: how long do you wait for the denatured alcohol to dry? You said, "A few minutes" ... 3 minutes? 5?
Thank you for explaining why CA finishes sometimes turn white--I'd read about this and didn't know that it was because of the moisture from the denatured alcohol.
Comment on CA glue types: I've been reading about CA glue and it's all basically the same (other than thickness)...when it says for wood finishers, it's just marketing to raise the price. Best advice I found: keep it in the FREEZER when not in use to extend shelf life. Also, get a larger size like 16oz and decant to the small bottles as needed.
Painter's tape on finger: OMG YES!! I love this tip!! I have been going through latex/nitrile gloves like crazy and a) I loathe them and b) they are not a good idea near a turning lathe. Your solution is simple and inexpensive! :) (Incidentally, you can get tiny nitrile or latex finger covers called "finger cots" which would work nicely too...look them up and snicker at how they look before you put them on...)
I am not so sure this is your current method of finishing, since I've been seeing recent videos using a buffing wheel. I'll take a peek. Thanks so much for the detailed instructions. You are so clear and easy to understand! :)
+Janet Brien I don't use 600 often because I can't visually tell a difference between 400 and 600. Once it's covered with C/A you can't feel the surface either.
I usually wait till there is no sign of the DNA on the surface. It really only takes about 60 seconds so if your waiting 3 to 5 minutes your covered.
This is my most recent finishing video. I just added the buffing wheel recently and I really like the results. I'm planning to do a video on it, I just haven't yet.
Regards,
Bob
Thank you !
I’m glad it helped David.
Regards,
Bob
Quick question on your video. When you wet sanded the blanks AFTER you put the 6 coats of CA glue on what grit pads did you use? Aside from that your video was Awesome I took a page of notes to take back to the shop and try on my next pen. Love the attention to detail. Thanks ~ Jeff
Thank you Jeff,
I use Micro Mesh pads and they are as follows: 1500, 1800, 2400, 3200, 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000, and 12,000 grits.
Do not get aggressive with the first 3 or 4 pads, just a quick swipe or two to remove any high points. Use very light pressure as they will remove the finish.
Wipe her slurry off between grits, you do t want to grind that back into the finish and mar it up.
Regards,
Bob
@@RJBWoodTurner Thanks for that quick response. I will be trying this in my shop this weekend. Have a great day.
You’re welcome.
How about putting painters tape to your bushings to keep them from sticking?
I’d be afraid the C/A would stick to the tape and perhaps permanently stick it to the bushings. I only use it on my finger to keep the C/A from burning.
Regards,
Bob
What grit pads did you use on the final sanding? Sorry for the mistake on lands.
12,000 grit. 😃
When you mentioned "Sanding Pads" is that micro mesh?? I hope to start turning in the next few weeks. Great video!! Thanks for taking the time to make it!!
Thank you Michael,
Yes, i was calling Micro Mesh sanding pads. Sometimes I forget to call things by their proper name.
Regards,
Bob
Hi Bob!
I hope you don't mind me asking a question. I have done several things using your video instructions and have even surprised myself on how great they have turned out. I have recently done 2 slimline pen/pencil kits with purpleheart wood using CA glues and have not been totally happy with the results. The first attempt, I had watched a video or two, including yours, and kinda winged it. The pencil looked great but with a couple of exceptions. My latest attempt I followed this video pretty much to the letter and the results were better but still not probably a pen that I would want to sell to anyone as if it was perfect. The thing that I noticed that was different in my attempt was that my CA glues did not say CA wood finish. My thin Starbond CA says, "creates a beautiful high gloss finish on wood". My 2P-10 medium CA doesn't even say that. The pen turned out wonderful except it has some small, almost unnoticeable, dull areas. Do you think this might be the reason? I have only had finishing issues when trying to do a CA finish, these 2 attempts. I would appreciate your thoughts and thanks for what you do!
Rick
Hello Rick,
While 2P-10 is a great adhesive, it’s definitely not for finishing.
Even with that, I’d bet the dull spots are created because you may have sanded through he finish.
Micro Mesh may not seem that aggressive because the grits are go high but it is designed to remove scratches and polish plastics.
The C/A finish is essentially just a plastic coating, and a very thin one at that.
I have two things for you try.
1. Apply more coats of the mediumC/A
OR
2. Try skipping the first MM pad. You may even start with the third.
See if this helps.
Regards,
Bob
Bob,
Thank you so much! That makes perfect sense! One of the things I left out was that after the first mm application, I saw some imperfections and went back over the blanks very quickly and lightly with 600 grit sandpaper. Then, I did the whole mm thing again running through all of the pads. I did have 4 coats of thin CA and 2 of the medium but I think you hit the nail on the head. It's only my 2nd time trying CA finish but I'll get it eventually. :) Thanks again for your help!
How much pressure do you put on the sandpaper? Do you just touch the blank or are you pressing as hard as you would a key on your keyboard...or harder?
With a C/A finish I use as little pressure as possible. To much pressure and you will sand through the finish with almost any of the Micro Mesh grits.
Regards,
Bob
I know this is old but I was wondering if anything special has to be done between applying the activator and the coat of medium ca?
No, some
People wipe the blank but I just apply the next coat.
Regards,
Bob
Bob, I love CA finishes but have recently run into two problems.
1. I seem to be getting lint in my finish. I recently switched from Brawny to Bounty paper towels. I will be switching back. What is your favorite paper towel for this process?
2. I like using the CA finish when making bottle stoppers. I am having trouble with the slurry, during the micro mesh sanding process, drying on the stopper before it can be wiped off and creating a very hard and rough ring on the stopper. This does not sand off easily. No accelerator was used in the application process. Do you have any idea what is happening or a way to prevent it?
Thanks, Rick
I use the cheapest rolls of paper towels I can get because I go through so many of them.
I’d say that’s not slurry, it kinda like you’re marring the stopper. Use more water to keep it cool, less speed on the lathe, maybe 700 - 800 RPMs a lot less pressure with the pads and keep them moving.
Regards,
Bob
Great video and excellent information. One quick question: How concerned do you have to be with contaminating the wood or the CA coats, with any dirt or oils from your hands as you're working on the piece?
-Mike
+Michael Holhut Hello Michael,
I've never had an issue but if I were making a special or expensive pen I would probably wear a glove on my hand to protect the blank. I just hate using gloves because they make it difficult to feel the blank and if it's tacky, I've had pieces of a finger rip off and stick to the blank.
Just my opinion.
Bob
Bob, I'm having trouble CA finishing an ebony pen. I had to sand it back down three times. I'm getting that cloudy haze when I start sanding with micro mesh. Is this because of the type of wood? Or maybe my shop is too cold? After I cleaned it with denatured alcohol I let it dry overnight and it still turns hazy when I get to the micro meshing. Is what confuses me is this is a two blank pen and one blank came out perfect the first time and the other keeps clouding up. I'm so frustrated. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Bob.
Ebony is extremely oily. It’s tricky to finish. Lately I’ve had luck finishing with BLO then after 24 hours, when it’s completely dry then I apply C/A. It will still need to be thoroughly cleaned.
Regards,
Bob
Thanks Bob, I will give it a try.
Great video, Rob, very informative! You mention divots in the finish when using Oak. Would using a sanding sealer work to minimize that?
+David Brock Yes, divots are just the grain and that would help fill them.
Bob
I use 500 grit wet dry sandpaper and thin ca sanding while turning to make a slurry to fill in the oak.
Thanks for the video. I've never tried a CA finish, but have been very tempted. One question for you. How long after a buyer has used your pen does the polish last? My concern is that where the pen is handled the polish will wear away leaving a really dull area with the rest of the pen looking shiny.
Mike
+Michael Spranger Hello Michael,
That's the beauty of C/A, it's very durable. A Friction Polish will dull over time but C/A won't. I have pens that are five years old and used daily that still look great.
Bob
+Michael Spranger Hello Michael,
That's the beauty of C/A, it's very durable. A Friction Polish will dull over time but C/A won't. I have pens that are five years old and used daily that still look great.
Bob
i know this is an old video, but do you have any videos on a CA/BLO finish?
I think I did it in one video but I can’t remember which one.
Regards,
Bob
@@RJBWoodTurner thank you! I'll get to looking again!
Hi Bob, I'm a subscriber and enjoy all of your videos and your enthusiasm. You show using the three 2 sided micro mesh pads and I was wondering what grits they are. I have the 9 piece set with grits from 1500 to 12,000. It kind of seems like the 1500 and 1800 grits take off too much of the CA finish and dulls the surface when I wet sand...I think? If I start with 2400 grit the surface does not dull down so much but I wonder if perhaps I'm missing something here. When you use the activator do you sometimes get the milky haze as I do sometimes and not sure why, or how to avoid it. If I don't use the activator the CA takes "forever" to cure it seems. When you're done sanding you appear to have a fairly nice gloss and then the polish makes it "pop." Does the polish wear off during use and then leave a somewhat uneven finish? I see in the Stick Fast Corporate video they suggest sanding the CA finish to a dull sheen and then use their plastic polish to bring out the high sheen. I have to wonder how long that lasts before wearing off in real world use and then does the pen finish look dull like it was sanded down to. Please advise your advice and thoughts. Thanks!!
Hello, I get those pads from Penn State they are: 600, 800, 1500, 2400, 4,000 and 12,000 grit. They work great for acrylics but when I use them on a C/A finish I like to use a worn set. If I don't have a worn set, I skip the first two grits. I use them wet and only polish for a few seconds. always wipe the slurry off the blank before going to then next grit. Activator will usually cause a haze if there is moisture in the blank. The activator boils the glue to cure it and if there is moisture, it evaporates and gets trapped because the outside surface cures first. I let the lathe spin and do other tasks around the shop while the glue cures naturally. I only use activator on the final coat after it has air cured for a bit just to make sure it's ready for the Micro Mesh pads. Otherwise, it causes a huge mess. I buff up the pens after the MM process and the shine seems to last for a very long time. I have pens over five years old that I see from time to time . They have scratches from use but still look very nice. I have rebuffed a few for close friends to clear the scratches.Regards,Bob
Thanks Bob!! As always great advice and very much appreciated. Take Care.
+mmfenske1 Glad to help.
Regards,
Bob
PLEASE HELP ME!, First let me say Thank You. I think that I have watched every video that you have posted and I have learned so much. The problem is that I cannot apply a CA finish at all. I have watched your video as well as many others just to learn how to do it. I have wasted so many blanks. I have a picture, but I don’t know how to attach it to this message. Basically, I have used high speed low speed in CA,glue thick CA, glue medium CA, glue end it seems like the result is always some kind of white coating. Sometimes with white lumps or barnacles. Please help,what am I doing wrong?
Hello Ken,
It sounds like you’re trying to use activator as part of your C/A finishing routine.
Activator boils the glue causing the moisture to vaporize and get trapped in the C/A. That causes the white haze.
The barnacles are caused when the C/A is thick and the activator is put on to close to the blank.
Avoid activator for the first 5 or so coats of thin. Thin cures quickly and will seal the blank. No more white haze.
Keep the activator 12 to 15 inches away from the blank and use a very light spritz. That’s all it takes. Only one spritz.
Try this an see if it helps.
Regards,
Bob
I noticed other turners use a medium CA and you use thin. What's the difference? Is one any better than the other?
+Joe Faletra I start with a few coats of thin because it penetrates into the wood and seals it like a sanding sealer. Then I follow up with medium as a top coat. It levels the surface and builds a nice shell over the material.
Regards,
Bob
Rob, what RPM were you running while applying the CA? Thanks!
As slow as the lathe will go so it doesn’t throw the C/A all over he place.
My lathe bottom speed is about 500 RPM but slower would be better if your lathe can go slower.
Regards,
Bob
hi ….. how do you get rid of a mist that comes up on wood pen finish on or behind the ca
That is usually caused by moisture. I sand the C/A off and re apply it.
Ok.. how do u make it go away when it is there
Make sure you’re wood is dry and don’t use activator. When you sand it back to the wood and reapply hopefully you will get it clear.
thank u from Australia would love to send a pic of my pen what is your email
Rjbwoodrurner@ufoww.com
THANKS for putting this up it helped.. :)
+Tim V. Thank you Tim.
Regards,
Bob
C/A Glue..One of those specialty items not available for shipping to Alaska.. Woodcrafter supply are very limited here...
I wish it was easier for everyone to get the supplies they need.
Regards,
Bob
So after you use the denatured alcohol you still have sawdust on the blank? That’s not possible.
I get beautiful finished so I guess it works well enough. 😃
Hi Bob, love your work. Could you please tell me. What do you think would make the best finish. After a CA finish, would Shellawax or plastx polish your pen for the shiniest finish
Hello Grant,
I’d go with the PlastX. Shellawax is a shellac based friction polish. It should be used directly on wood.
Regards,
Bob
RJBWoodTurner Thanks Bob
👍
😃
Why does everyone use glue to finish the pens please
+tony davies I like C/A because it gives a brilliant finish and is extremely durable.
Bob
I forgot to say that my name is Ken.
Thank you Ken.
Regards,
Bob
Sorry...Bob...not Rob! No spell checker to blame there, just my brain. Lol!
+David Brock No problem at all.
Regards,
Bob