I'm assuming you've figured it out after all these years, but if you wet sand with micro mesh up to 12000 after your last coat of CA glue (and if you like, you can apply a final coat, wet sand at 12000), it will be like glass. A final coat of plastic polish, buff, and you're done. For a satin finish with a buttery feel that all wood lovers covet, use several coats of wax instead of CA glue. Buff well with a chamois or leather and let it completely cure. As hard as CA glue for much cheaper. And if you want a shiny finish? Gloss plastic polish (Hut or McGuires). In any case, GEORGIOUS pen!
Thank you for admitting you still need practice! Frankly, we ALL do. There's always something to learn. No one is ever "perfect" in their work, nor should they be (unless you use something like a guide for production work, and to me, that's cheating). Hand work SHOULD have a few imperfections, even if they're not noticed until very close inspection. Any work only needs to be pleasing to the person that made it. If you like it, someone else will also. Do what makes you happy, ditch perfection (and I have been a perfectionist my whole life. If I learned to let it go, anyone can), let the wood (or frankly paint, clay, whatever) tell you what it wants to be and when it's done and it will be perfectly imperfect as all art should be.
Good to see pens. I'll start into those after mills. Good experimenting as one never knows what will work better. I have done bowls in CA and still experimenting with that.Do you do CA with mills?
Another great tip with the photograph Sam. Just an idea - but could you use the blank photo paper before the print ?. Anyway love the video and the tip, top class as usual. Cheers.....Stevie
Thanks for the tips Sam, wish I'd seen this before I uploaded my beginners guide on the subject of pen turning, I would have "pinched" this for sure....lol Take care, and Happy New Year to you and your family. Take care Mike PS - I am a complete novice on this pen turning lark :)
Mike (Or should I say "Double O" There are so many fine pen turners around. After I do a video on anything to do with turning a pen, I swear I will never do another. I get so many good Ideas from folks that are better than what I offer in my video. But I think the photo paper has possibilities. Thanks Sam
I have these Q-Tips with long wood sticks. they have a rather low amount of cotton on them. after turning down the wood to the OD I needed I sanded with 400 grit. then just 3 or 4 drops of CA on the cotton and my wood is coated at 600 RPM. I made 3 coats with Zap Thin then lightly sanded with 400 after the 3rd coat. then 3 more coats of Thin and more light sanding with 600. then 2 more coats of Thin. then 3 coats of Slow Zap Thick. no more sanding. the wood is "Bocote". I was surprised to find how thick the glue looked. it was the first time I glued wood like this, I used Zap because it was all I had for my model planes. I was making a simple pen for my granddaughter. I turned the wood on my mid-size metal cutting lathe at 600 RPM. it worked well. the pen had a larger step on it at the top with 5 V-groove in it.
I'm going to try using credit cards and other similar cards that are samples of what a card with your name will look like. Some are clear with little ink which would be great.
Hi Sam, have you though about wax paper or the backing for "Avery" type labels for a printer after use ( all labels used)? Thanks for the video, very informative and nice finish!
Of course I have a different approach to applying CA. I reasoned that I have the slowest speed and I'd like to get just enough but not too much on the pen. So I hold a kleenex folded into a 2" square underneath and apply the CA to the top of the pen while it is turning. No it doesn't come flying off and I can measure the amount I put on the pen by dragging slower or faster or using drops (for other applications).. I only get two uses per kleenex but I don't mind. One pass per wipe. Everyone say a prayer for Cap'n Eddie, he's still recovering from major surgery.
I'll give you another applicator option to try. Try craft foam. It comes in sheets and you can get it at Walmart, hobby stores, etc. It is about $3.00 a sheet. I think the sheets are about 2-3 mm thick. Cut the sheet into little applicators about 1" by 3/8", whatever size suits your finger. With the lathe slowly turning, I dribble a few drops of CA onto the top of the pen blank while holding the craft foam underneath the blank, lightly touching it. Much as you do with your card I spread the CA glue in two or three back and forth swipes, and then let it dry. No further rubbing or wiping off. The trick is to get a smooth even, not heavy, coat of CA on the blank. The craft foam does not absorb the CA glue. After each application I wipe any CA left on the surface of the applicator off on a paper towel. I use the same end of the applicator multiple times, and turn it over and use the other side as well. Usually no sanding until 6-8 coats have been applied. But if ridges develop (too much CA applied) I will do intermediate sanding to remove them, and then apply several more CA coats. I also use Delrin mini bushings when applying CA to avoid gluing the blank on to the steel bushings.
I'll try the photograph or other smooth flat applicator. I've used coffee filters folded up which dont absorb the glue as much and won't leave lint or residue or ink in my finish. 3 coats and I don't gernerally wipe after coats. I sand 400-1200 and then micro mesh pads (wet) from 3000-12000 grit. The mesh pads are amazing and the finsh smoothness and gloss after are fantastic. Good video. Do you wear a respirator usually? I at least make sure ventilation is very good.
Sam ... I use craft foam (like Andy Watts mentioned), sand with micromesh to 12000 grit, then polish with Meguiars Plastx Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish (available at auto parts and big box stores). Happy New Year!
Great pen and finishing tip Sam! Always nice to see 'another' method to apply CA although it certainly isn't my favorite finish. I also noticed several other nice application tips from other readers which makes your video even more important...the more tips, the merrier!!! Thanks for sharing, wish you and yours the Happiest of New Years and safe turning always!
Eddie Castelin has a video that shows him using boiled linseed oil first as a lubricant then applying CA glue. The boiled linseed allows the CA glue to be spread more evenly and doesn't affect the finish.
+Ansi Baumanis I have the exterminated over the years with finishes for pens. I also used this approach for several years. My thought was that BLO might take a little bit longer to cure. I then experimented with CA glue and a friction polish. My thought was that both of these cure very quickly. That seemed to work pretty well. I went back and looked over this video. I see that I showed several different ways to apply CA glue. I usually just use a paper towel. Mainly because I have shop towels all around. My problem is I like to try different approaches for lots of things, some work and some don't. I am always changing. I like to turn Box Elder pen blanks. These are pieces of wood I have milled up myself. I like to color them, and during the process I apply many coats of CA glue. By the time I get done I probably don't need to put any other finish on them, beyond sanding and polishing to 12,000 grit. Thanks for your comments Sam
You do some amazing things on that lathe, but CA glue is not complicated. You apply, sand, and reapply. I don't sand in between and things come out shiny and smooth.
Jeff I did so much sanding/applying CA off the lathe on this pen it is difficult to show all that goes into a video. But you are corrert. I think the trick is building up a deep layer with out having lots of bumps. Sam
Never turned a pen nor used CA to finish something. So good to see someone trying something other than paper towel. Thank you. And then a comment further down says you use paper towel now. Ah well ;-)
Hi Sam, I often watch your informative and well-made videos and have learnt many a thing and after watching this one I thought I’d share my way. When I turn pens I always use and apply medium 5 second CA and I use a small plastic bag from start to finish. The bags I purchase in bulk as I use a lot of them and they are of a size so they snugly fit over my finger and after each application I throw and renew the bag each time. Also with a plastic bag you’ll use less CA than a soaked paper towel. Having a plastic covered finger gives me control on applying how much CA, pressure, feel and smoothness far better than I can with the many other things I've used, and tried from other videos in the past. I never sweep my finger back and forth as this often leaves ridges/swirls if you're not careful, just one sweep. The problem I’ve found using other methods beside paper towels is as you apply you can cause lines from premature setting of the CA in parts where the glue is thin. Or from dirt or pressure or, or and without that close skin feel from a bag you won’t notice it till it’s too late. If you suffer from this let it dry and sand the lines/marks out with a final fine sand with the grain to clear the scratching. Also thoroughly clean the blank between coats with air and a clean rag nothing worse than seeing floaters in the finish when you’re done. Don’t skip any of this because when your pen’s finished you’ll regret it. The other thing is I always make my own cone shaped ‘holders’ from nylon rod as this gives me a perfectly slop free dead centered blank unlike most purchased metal bushes give. As Sam mentioned use a little bees wax on the cone before you assemble your blank on the mandrel. I then measure the pen thickness with digital calipers and work from this measurement to finish my pen blank thickness taking into account the amount of CA I’m using. Then I don’t suffer from the under or overhang of wood/material which doesn’t look good. To remove the blank use a small skew chisel at a high speed and gently/carefully remove any access glue at both ends, remove from the lathe and with a gentle tap on the bench the blank will loosen. When I’m done and the final sand is finished I use a colorless metal polish for the shine, a fine bees wax coat and all is done with that great glass finished look. Plus a pure straight lineless reflection when it’s held under a light. Yes I am a bit of a perfectionist and time consumer but why not it all helps the proudameter you’ll get afterwards. Good luck with the pens and hope ‘my long winded way’ could help in some way. Steve
It sounds like you have a very good process down. One really good point is laving those lines in the CA finish. That does depend so much on the applicator. I have found some very smooth paper towels that have no design in them. Sam
I had some dollar store ca in my house and used it to turn a few pens. They look the same as the ten dollar a bottle stuff. Ever try dollar store ca glue?
That's about the same process i use although rather than T Cut I've been using brass polish then final plastic polish....... I've used this on wood and home brew polymer clay blanks I am currently experimenting with epoxy lacquer on wood blanks applied with fine foam "brushes" and flame polished with a small butane torch
Sam, Very cool, actually all of your stuff is very informative...I have a comment that is actually off subject ( CA glue)....The other day I happened upon a master class from Craft Supply where a young man showed how to use a Skew Chisel...There was alot of info in that presentation...Now ,when I make a burl pen I usually have to make three to get one...I usually crack two...Watching that master class gave me info that I did not know ...How to use a skew or small gauge...Then it occurred to me that lots of folks have presentations on how to make a pen but few if any (that I have found) teach us how to use the various lath tools to make a pen. The assumption is that we all know...Not true , Comment ?
I'm not turning long but I have never "cracked" a pen... is this something specific to burl pens? I use a bowl gouge and then a spindle gouge. Mike Waldt does a great series on his channel demonstrating each tool in turn , one for each video. Well worth the time for any new turner. I learned a lot from them.
Barry I am not a great pen turner nor do I turn lots of pens....but I have blown up a few by not being careful. I think burls can be more difficult cause the grain runs in many directions. I don't think there are many good options for tools for turning a pen. I like a small spindle roughing gouge to start with. I usually end with a skew chisel to get a good surface before I sand. I.....and this is just me....never use a spindle gouge on a pen. I think there are better tools. I do have a few videos on tools for turning a pen on my channel. I think you can search and find them. Sam
WYOMINGWOODTURNER Sam ,Thanks for your great comments...The master class presentation that made me realize that I have been doing this at least partially wrong was presented by Allan Batty through Craft Supply...Your comments along with those of your followers has made me realized that paying attention is a good thing. I have in fact been using a small spindle roughing gouge and a small skew ( the latter as a scrapper). I am excited about the prospect of learning to use these and other tools properly and improve everything that I do. I shall be paying particular attention to you and your followers...Thanks...B
Thuya is pronounced 2 ya. I was fortunate enough to pick some up while in Morocco last month. At least that is how they pronounced it in Morocco. It is certainly beautiful wood. Steve
In your question it says.....want sufficient. I suspect this is a result of the "spell check" feature. I am not sure what you are asking. I looked over the video and could not locate anything referring to "changed to photograph" Please specify the minute/second that you are referring to. Thanks Sam
@@WYOMINGWOODTURNER sorry about that. i basically was wondering why the plastic bag was not sufficient and you decided to try the photograph and the business card?
Very nice job Sir. I just got into making a few pens and have always used a paper towel. It does use up a lot of glue. I never thought of using plastic or a card. I will have to try some different things and see how it works. Thanks for sharing
I'm assuming you've figured it out after all these years, but if you wet sand with micro mesh up to 12000 after your last coat of CA glue (and if you like, you can apply a final coat, wet sand at 12000), it will be like glass. A final coat of plastic polish, buff, and you're done. For a satin finish with a buttery feel that all wood lovers covet, use several coats of wax instead of CA glue. Buff well with a chamois or leather and let it completely cure. As hard as CA glue for much cheaper. And if you want a shiny finish? Gloss plastic polish (Hut or McGuires).
In any case, GEORGIOUS pen!
Very nice! Thanks for the lesson!
Thank you for admitting you still need practice! Frankly, we ALL do. There's always something to learn. No one is ever "perfect" in their work, nor should they be (unless you use something like a guide for production work, and to me, that's cheating). Hand work SHOULD have a few imperfections, even if they're not noticed until very close inspection. Any work only needs to be pleasing to the person that made it. If you like it, someone else will also. Do what makes you happy, ditch perfection (and I have been a perfectionist my whole life. If I learned to let it go, anyone can), let the wood (or frankly paint, clay, whatever) tell you what it wants to be and when it's done and it will be perfectly imperfect as all art should be.
Good to see pens. I'll start into those after mills. Good experimenting as one never knows what will work better. I have done bowls in CA and still experimenting with that.Do you do CA with mills?
I really don't use CA glue with much more than pens.
Sam
Hi Sam, Great vlog 👍 What speed is your lathe going at when getting them blanks down ? Stay safe my friend 😉
Instead Of using STEEL wool. I use BRONZE wool. No possibility if any rust particles on the finish
That’s a great idea, I’ve never heard of bronze wool. Sam
Another great tip with the photograph Sam. Just an idea - but could you use the blank photo paper before the print ?.
Anyway love the video and the tip, top class as usual.
Cheers.....Stevie
That is a great tip. I have tons of that paper they send for free with my printer ribbons. I will send that tip along.
Sam
Thanks for the tips Sam, wish I'd seen this before I uploaded my beginners guide on the subject of pen turning, I would have "pinched" this for sure....lol
Take care, and Happy New Year to you and your family.
Take care
Mike
PS - I am a complete novice on this pen turning lark :)
Mike (Or should I say "Double O"
There are so many fine pen turners around. After I do a video on anything to do with turning a pen, I swear I will never do another. I get so many good Ideas from folks that are better than what I offer in my video. But I think the photo paper has possibilities. Thanks Sam
I have these Q-Tips with long wood sticks. they have a rather low amount of cotton on them. after turning down the wood to the OD I needed I sanded with 400 grit. then just 3 or 4 drops of CA on the cotton and my wood is coated at 600 RPM. I made 3 coats with Zap Thin then lightly sanded with 400 after the 3rd coat. then 3 more coats of Thin and more light sanding with 600. then 2 more coats of Thin. then 3 coats of Slow Zap Thick. no more sanding. the wood is "Bocote". I was surprised to find how thick the glue looked. it was the first time I glued wood like this, I used Zap because it was all I had for my model planes. I was making a simple pen for my granddaughter. I turned the wood on my mid-size metal cutting lathe at 600 RPM. it worked well. the pen had a larger step on it at the top with 5 V-groove in it.
Thank you very much for the information, Sam
@@WYOMINGWOODTURNER thank you!
I'm going to try using credit cards and other similar cards that are samples of what a card with your name will look like. Some are clear with little ink which would be great.
That thuya turned out gorgeous! Did you do anything to keep the bushings from getting glued to the pen body?
Hi Sam, have you though about wax paper or the backing for "Avery" type labels for a printer after use ( all labels used)?
Thanks for the video, very informative and nice finish!
Yes I have gotten that recommendation. I did try it. There are tons of ideas for pen finishes.
Thanks
Sam
Do you have an issue with the CA sticking the blank to the bushings? If so, how do yo address that issue?
One think you can do is apply a little wax to the ends of your busihings. But I usually don't have a problem. Sam
Thank you for the quick reply. Tom
Hi Sam,
How do you seperate the finished blanks from the bushings? I find I always chip the finish somehow. Tips?
Logan
I am not sure if I mentioned it in this video. But I put a bit of wax on the end of the bushings. This really helps.
Sam
They make plastic cone shape bushings. This way it is easier to separate the pen.
Of course I have a different approach to applying CA. I reasoned that I have the slowest speed and I'd like to get just enough but not too much on the pen. So I hold a kleenex folded into a 2" square underneath and apply the CA to the top of the pen while it is turning. No it doesn't come flying off and I can measure the amount I put on the pen by dragging slower or faster or using drops (for other applications).. I only get two uses per kleenex but I don't mind. One pass per wipe.
Everyone say a prayer for Cap'n Eddie, he's still recovering from major surgery.
Thanks
And a prayer from me as well for Cap'n Eddie
Sam
I'll give you another applicator option to try. Try craft foam. It comes in sheets and you can get it at Walmart, hobby stores, etc. It is about $3.00 a sheet. I think the sheets are about 2-3 mm thick. Cut the sheet into little applicators about 1" by 3/8", whatever size suits your finger.
With the lathe slowly turning, I dribble a few drops of CA onto the top of the pen blank while holding the craft foam underneath the blank, lightly touching it. Much as you do with your card I spread the CA glue in two or three back and forth swipes, and then let it dry. No further rubbing or wiping off. The trick is to get a smooth even, not heavy, coat of CA on the blank.
The craft foam does not absorb the CA glue. After each application I wipe any CA left on the surface of the applicator off on a paper towel. I use the same end of the applicator multiple times, and turn it over and use the other side as well.
Usually no sanding until 6-8 coats have been applied. But if ridges develop (too much CA applied) I will do intermediate sanding to remove them, and then apply several more CA coats.
I also use Delrin mini bushings when applying CA to avoid gluing the blank on to the steel bushings.
Thanks Andy
I will keep that in mind. I bet there are a million applicators out there.
Sam
I'll try the photograph or other smooth flat applicator. I've used coffee filters folded up which dont absorb the glue as much and won't leave lint or residue or ink in my finish. 3 coats and I don't gernerally wipe after coats. I sand 400-1200 and then micro mesh pads (wet) from 3000-12000 grit. The mesh pads are amazing and the finsh smoothness and gloss after are fantastic. Good video. Do you wear a respirator usually? I at least make sure ventilation is very good.
I usually just turn my floor mount fan on and have it blow across my work station.
Sam
Sam ... I use craft foam (like Andy Watts mentioned), sand with micromesh to 12000 grit, then polish with Meguiars Plastx Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish (available at auto parts and big box stores).
Happy New Year!
I saw his comment. Thanks I will try that.
Sam
Great pen and finishing tip Sam! Always nice to see 'another' method to apply CA although it certainly isn't my favorite finish. I also noticed several other nice application tips from other readers which makes your video even more important...the more tips, the merrier!!! Thanks for sharing, wish you and yours the Happiest of New Years and safe turning always!
Thanks
Sam
great pen and nice job
thanks Sam
joao
Thank you Joao
Eddie Castelin has a video that shows him using boiled linseed oil first as a lubricant then applying CA glue. The boiled linseed allows the CA glue to be spread more evenly and doesn't affect the finish.
+Ansi Baumanis I have the exterminated over the years with finishes for pens. I also used this approach for several years. My thought was that BLO might take a little bit longer to cure. I then experimented with CA glue and a friction polish. My thought was that both of these cure very quickly. That seemed to work pretty well.
I went back and looked over this video. I see that I showed several different ways to apply CA glue. I usually just use a paper towel. Mainly because I have shop towels all around.
My problem is I like to try different approaches for lots of things, some work and some don't. I am always changing. I like to turn Box Elder pen blanks. These are pieces of wood I have milled up myself. I like to color them, and during the process I apply many coats of CA glue. By the time I get done I probably don't need to put any other finish on them, beyond sanding and polishing to 12,000 grit. Thanks for your comments Sam
A good video. I use CA glue most of the time but have had some trouble with it. Your video gives me some ideas on how to cure my problem. Thanks
Thanks
Sam
You do some amazing things on that lathe, but CA glue is not complicated. You apply, sand, and reapply. I don't sand in between and things come out shiny and smooth.
Jeff
I did so much sanding/applying CA off the lathe on this pen it is difficult to show all that goes into a video. But you are corrert. I think the trick is building up a deep layer with out having lots of bumps. Sam
I would like to see the video from 2015 on making the spacer on lidded box. How do i find that
This might be the video. I am not sure... Sam ua-cam.com/video/ZXV7U_BxfJE/v-deo.html
Never turned a pen nor used CA to finish something. So good to see someone trying something other than paper towel. Thank you.
And then a comment further down says you use paper towel now. Ah well ;-)
+Aaron DC mediA I first began using paper towles and find they work about as good as anything AND, they are always sitting there in my shop. Sam
Hi Sam, I often watch your informative and well-made videos and have learnt many a thing and after watching this one I thought I’d share my way. When I turn pens I always use and apply medium 5 second CA and I use a small plastic bag from start to finish. The bags I purchase in bulk as I use a lot of them and they are of a size so they snugly fit over my finger and after each application I throw and renew the bag each time. Also with a plastic bag you’ll use less CA than a soaked paper towel. Having a plastic covered finger gives me control on applying how much CA, pressure, feel and smoothness far better than I can with the many other things I've used, and tried from other videos in the past. I never sweep my finger back and forth as this often leaves ridges/swirls if you're not careful, just one sweep.
The problem I’ve found using other methods beside paper towels is as you apply you can cause lines from premature setting of the CA in parts where the glue is thin. Or from dirt or pressure or, or and without that close skin feel from a bag you won’t notice it till it’s too late. If you suffer from this let it dry and sand the lines/marks out with a final fine sand with the grain to clear the scratching. Also thoroughly clean the blank between coats with air and a clean rag nothing worse than seeing floaters in the finish when you’re done. Don’t skip any of this because when your pen’s finished you’ll regret it.
The other thing is I always make my own cone shaped ‘holders’ from nylon rod as this gives me a perfectly slop free dead centered blank unlike most purchased metal bushes give. As Sam mentioned use a little bees wax on the cone before you assemble your blank on the mandrel. I then measure the pen thickness with digital calipers and work from this measurement to finish my pen blank thickness taking into account the amount of CA I’m using. Then I don’t suffer from the under or overhang of wood/material which doesn’t look good. To remove the blank use a small skew chisel at a high speed and gently/carefully remove any access glue at both ends, remove from the lathe and with a gentle tap on the bench the blank will loosen.
When I’m done and the final sand is finished I use a colorless metal polish for the shine, a fine bees wax coat and all is done with that great glass finished look. Plus a pure straight lineless reflection when it’s held under a light. Yes I am a bit of a perfectionist and time consumer but why not it all helps the proudameter you’ll get afterwards. Good luck with the pens and hope ‘my long winded way’ could help in some way. Steve
It sounds like you have a very good process down. One really good point is laving those lines in the CA finish. That does depend so much on the applicator. I have found some very smooth paper towels that have no design in them.
Sam
I had some dollar store ca in my house and used it to turn a few pens. They look the same as the ten dollar a bottle stuff. Ever try dollar store ca glue?
I buy my CA glue from starbond. I get larger bottles in several viscosities. Sam
Sam, very nice work. I have used wax paper as the application method and it seems to work fine for me. Just a thought
I will try that. I have some in my shop. I am getting great ideas
Sam
I use aluminium foil works well for me....
That's about the same process i use although rather than T Cut I've been using brass polish then final plastic polish....... I've used this on wood and home brew polymer clay blanks I am currently experimenting with epoxy lacquer on wood blanks applied with fine foam "brushes" and flame polished with a small butane torch
I am not sure if we have TCut here in the states. I use MacQuires polishing products. Thanks
Sam
WYOMINGWOODTURNER I have used Mylands Burnishing cream with terrific results! two applications really brings uo the shine.
Sam, Very cool, actually all of your stuff is very informative...I have a comment that is actually off subject ( CA glue)....The other day I happened upon a master class from Craft Supply where a young man showed how to use a Skew Chisel...There was alot of info in that presentation...Now ,when I make a burl pen I usually have to make three to get one...I usually crack two...Watching that master class gave me info that I did not know ...How to use a skew or small gauge...Then it occurred to me that lots of folks have presentations on how to make a pen but few if any (that I have found) teach us how to use the various lath tools to make a pen. The assumption is that we all know...Not true , Comment ?
I'm not turning long but I have never "cracked" a pen... is this something specific to burl pens? I use a bowl gouge and then a spindle gouge. Mike Waldt does a great series on his channel demonstrating each tool in turn , one for each video. Well worth the time for any new turner. I learned a lot from them.
Tom Murphy I'll check it out Thanks.
Barry
I am not a great pen turner nor do I turn lots of pens....but I have blown up a few by not being careful. I think burls can be more difficult cause the grain runs in many directions. I don't think there are many good options for tools for turning a pen. I like a small spindle roughing gouge to start with. I usually end with a skew chisel to get a good surface before I sand. I.....and this is just me....never use a spindle gouge on a pen. I think there are better tools. I do have a few videos on tools for turning a pen on my channel. I think you can search and find them. Sam
WYOMINGWOODTURNER Sam ,Thanks for your great comments...The master class presentation that made me realize that I have been doing this at least partially wrong was presented by Allan Batty through Craft Supply...Your comments along with those of your followers has made me realized that paying attention is a good thing. I have in fact been using a small spindle roughing gouge and a small skew ( the latter as a scrapper). I am excited about the prospect of learning to use these and other tools properly and improve everything that I do. I shall be paying particular attention to you and your followers...Thanks...B
Thuya is pronounced 2 ya. I was fortunate enough to pick some up while in Morocco last month. At least that is how they pronounced it in Morocco. It is certainly beautiful wood.
Steve
Stephen Breazeale thanks Stephen
Just curious where do you live?
2 Ya hope I can remember that.
Sam
I live across the bay from San Francisco CA
You can see my pens at www.stephenbreazeale.com
Great video
Did you say why the plastic bag want sufficient and needed to be changed to photograph?
In your question it says.....want sufficient. I suspect this is a result of the "spell check" feature. I am not sure what you are asking. I looked over the video and could not locate anything referring to "changed to photograph" Please specify the minute/second that you are referring to. Thanks Sam
@@WYOMINGWOODTURNER sorry about that. i basically was wondering why the plastic bag was not sufficient and you decided to try the photograph and the business card?
@@28jonmark Thanks for getting back to me. In the video I was just experimenting with different items to apply the CA glue. Sam
What about electrical tape?
Yes, the smooth, glossy stuff. Good Idea. Sam
Great video Sam,
cheers Colin.
Thanks Colin
what grade steel wool do you use
Use as many 0's as possible 👍🙂
Very well done yet again,
Thanks for the effort.
Thanks
Sam
What type of pen mandrel do you use?
This mandrel is from ArizonaSilhouette
It is a good one. I am using a mandrel saver on the tailstock
Sam
Thank you.
Very nice job Sir. I just got into making a few pens and have always used a paper towel. It does use up a lot of glue. I never thought of using plastic or a card. I will have to try some different things and see how it works. Thanks for sharing