Thank you for helping keep our boat afloat. See the 👍 button, please consider pressing it as you would be helping us out more than you know. Would you like to see more of Sailing with the James’s? Become a virtual crew member by becoming a patreon and get more of Sailing with the James's. You can check out what it’s all about here 👇come and join the fun. www.patreon.com/Sailingwiththejamess Want to do a one time donations? Buy us a coffee! ko-fi.com/sailingwiththejamess We hope to see you again next week ❤
Great Video guys, really great idea with recessing the anodes, with will way better for water flow over the hull. hope you get that knot faster. Looking forward to this controversal episode next week!!
Cheers Brad, hahaha I think a knot is a tad ambitious lol. I think that it will definitely make a difference once the boat gets moving. Before we found that once we got over 4 kts that the boat resistance in the water started to increase in a linear form as our speed increases. If we end up with an 8 kt boat it will all be worth while. -sam
Hi guys 🧙🏼♂️....You will have to find out if youre sunken annodes work as you hope . 🤞🏻 Just employing my eyes and existing knowledge see it might cause problems to get and fit replacements in the future. Also the exposed reactive area is less and you will need to keep the exposed surface clear... If you're still struggling ive seen cats with hydrodynamic bubble/dolphin bow modifications added below the water line like large ships use ..these smooth and extend the hull hydrodynamics increasing hull speed esp at cruising speeds.. the added forward boyancy also can help reduce the tendency of the bow to dive or porpoise under certain conditions. They also add a crash box structure up front if hitting semi submerged objects.
Hi Clive, The boxes are 170mm by 90mm and we have 2 more annodes on our props so mathematical they should be OK but we will have to see. We have found a lot of stray current on the boat and it probably has more so we will have to keep a close eye on it and keep on top of it all. -sam
😂 if you ever want to keep a kid happy give them a torch 🔦 😉. Charlie was being very good and demonstrating great self control for a toddler . Re skegs.. watch the bearfoot doctors latest episode a Q&A on this topic. I commented on the bow option elswhere. Theres another item my brains had a freeze on for now but i will return to it if ... Bingo😂 ...look at Sailing with the Whinns two weeks ago with a corrosion issue on their new composite cat and what they found.
Wow yes I looked at putting carbon on here until I found out how good a conductor it is. It does make me feel better that even brand new boats have problems with stray current lol. -sam
Hi again guys. Interesting video. 8 anodes seems excessive. Time will tell! I once read an article re the use of anodes simply dangled over the side bonded to the hull or whatever you are trying to protect. Obviously not a good idea under way but most boats spend most of the time at anchor or in a marina. Might be worth investigating for your marginal 6m distant area. My boat has 2 main anodes like yours, collar anodes on the 2 props and collar anodes on the sail drives. I have been changing anodes for 20+ years!!. I used to need to change all the collar anodes twice per year but lately this has become once per year and 3 weeks ago i beached to change them and they were all fine....virtually untouched. My sail drives are 22 years old with no corrosion at all. I have no idea why things have changed! I also have a Highfield aluminium rib which has sat in a marina for 10 years. There is one small anode on the hydraulic trim and tilt mechanism but nothing on the hull. The hull has zero corrosion even where i have chipped the paint. There are no through hulls on the rib and no electrics operating when sat idle. I have also seen videos on utube of alumium boats pitted all over below the waterline. Goodness knows why sometimes boats corrode and sometimes dont! I even studied corrosion science as part of my engineering degree but it hasnt helped.
Hey again Chris! Thank you so much, we enjoy reading your comments. Yes I was excessive and we are super happy with the way these recessed boxes have come out 🙌 We will be doing an update after we've had them for a while (and in the water sailing) to see and show how they are doing. There are some more big changes happening to the boat soon,stay tuned! Cait
I have not heard of recessing the anode's before. I hope they still work well. Cutting the skegs off would really set the cat amongst the pigeons lol . Are you going to be having any sort of small board to stop sideways movement of the cat when sailing and especially moving around in a marina with a bit of wind that might push you sideways?
Hi Stephen, yeah as long as the annodes have water flow over them then they will work fine. If it's a super small surface area then that would affect it sometimes but ours theoretically should be OK lol. We have dagger boards that protrude about 1 Meter below the hull so if it's windy we will put them down a bit when parking in the Marina. -sam
Interesting to hear your thoughts for removing the skegs. Im thinking that your removing them to help with drag? But im thinking that will leave your props and rudders unprotected, and stop you from being able to beach it.
It has been quite the topic around the boat yard are not adding more protection for the rudders, the skegs were the protection and they will be staying off. We will be explaining everything in next week's video 🙌😉✨️ must say she looks very good! -Cait
I'm wondering if there is as much drag from having water flow disrupted by the recessed boxes vs anodes in a tear drop shape but attached flush to the hull? It was a courageous move cutting four square holes in each hull...
Hahaha yes it was lol. Our annodes were not flush to the hull and when I did my research I read some where that a spitfires wing has less drag than an inch round pole purely due to shape. Another option that we looked into was welding in the existing mounts so that the existing annodes were flush. The welder informed us that we could not re-use the mounts and it would be a similar cost to make boxes so we went with that. We are on the count down to getting launched and are excited to see how much difference it will make. I believe at the lower speeds the difference will be marginal but once we get her moving we should really see some returns on our efforts. -sam
I always thought ( I think from Nigel Calder) that there should be "line of sight" placement of the anodes from the anode to the dissimilar metal it is protecting, like stainless prop shafts and/or rudder shafts. But maybe that is only for GRP boats and not alloy boats? What's your understanding on that point?
I have never heard of line of sight with regards to annodes. Now days with all the different hull shapes out there it would make that rule harder to follow. Generally speaking the annode is good for a 6m wetted surface radius. So If you have a deep draft then that would also affect how may you have. Again like the line of sight rule this is a broad general rule that a lot of specifics could change things. Eg how the boat is wired (MEN, above ground...) where you power generation is, if you have a lot of electrical items. Any faults of your electrics... we have chosen to go with the minimum amount of annodes as we live aboard and can monitor it all the time. -sam
@@sailingwiththejamessfyi the line of sight placement is referenced by several of the anode manufacturers and by my gurus for all things marine electrical, Steve D’Antonio and Nigel Calder. The suggestion is to put the anode as close to the metal to be protected as practicable or at least within line of sight between the two. This is, as I understand it, related to the electrical field strength between them when immersed in seawater, ie too far apart and the anode effectiveness is diminished.
Cheers for the clarification. It does make sense for galvanic corrosion as the irons only travel in Strait lines in salt water. We don't have dissimilar metals below the waterline apart from our running gear. The 6m rule is for stray current electrolysis and electrolytic corrosion. This is a big problem on aluminium boats. -sam
![[How to] Dyneema Eye Splice on 15mm Heat Stretched Synthetic Rope | Synthetic Rigging (Ep. 102)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5pnpgnPSmuA/mqdefault.jpg)
![[How to] Dyneema Eye Splice on 15mm Heat Stretched Synthetic Rope | Synthetic Rigging (Ep. 102)](/img/tr.png)
Thank you for helping keep our boat afloat. See the 👍 button, please consider pressing it as you would be helping us out more than you know.
Would you like to see more of Sailing with the James’s?
Become a virtual crew member by becoming a patreon and get more of Sailing with the James's. You can check out what it’s all about here 👇come and join the fun.
www.patreon.com/Sailingwiththejamess
Want to do a one time donations? Buy us a coffee!
ko-fi.com/sailingwiththejamess
We hope to see you again next week ❤
Another great video who would have thought that is a great idea as always stay safe and God bless
Thank you so much Kris, having less disturbed water over the hull will increase efficiency 🙌
Cait
Good idea to get anodes flush with the hull. A challenge to install, but you did have Charlie's help.
Thank you! Charlie was a big help, and a really good helper with putting the flooring back together 🙌
Nice job. Hope you guys are going well.
What a beautiful day today.
We are off to the reef tomorrow.
But today, we are going to the Gordonvale races.
Thank you! We will be around, more than welcome to park where you normally do - there's a bit more boat now too than last time😆😉
Cait
G'day Sam, Kait, and Charlie ...... Wow Sam, looks so much better. I'm sure it's going to increase your speed.
Thanks! I am confident that it will make a difference and its been heap of fun and a good learning experience giving it a go.
-sam
Wow some massive structural changes with those anodes. I hope they work in your favour. Great video again btw
Cheers Colin, I really appreciate it. I hope they work in our favour aswell. Can't wait to get back in the water and see how they go.
Great Video guys, really great idea with recessing the anodes, with will way better for water flow over the hull. hope you get that knot faster. Looking forward to this controversal episode next week!!
Cheers Brad, hahaha I think a knot is a tad ambitious lol. I think that it will definitely make a difference once the boat gets moving. Before we found that once we got over 4 kts that the boat resistance in the water started to increase in a linear form as our speed increases. If we end up with an 8 kt boat it will all be worth while.
-sam
Hi guys 🧙🏼♂️....You will have to find out if youre sunken annodes work as you hope . 🤞🏻
Just employing my eyes and existing knowledge see it might cause problems to get and fit replacements in the future.
Also the exposed reactive area is less and you will need to keep the exposed surface clear...
If you're still struggling ive seen cats with hydrodynamic bubble/dolphin bow modifications added below the water line like large ships use ..these smooth and extend the hull hydrodynamics increasing hull speed esp at cruising speeds.. the added forward boyancy also can help reduce the tendency of the bow to dive or porpoise under certain conditions. They also add a crash box structure up front if hitting semi submerged objects.
Hi Clive,
The boxes are 170mm by 90mm and we have 2 more annodes on our props so mathematical they should be OK but we will have to see. We have found a lot of stray current on the boat and it probably has more so we will have to keep a close eye on it and keep on top of it all.
-sam
Great idea to decrease drag,
Very hydrodynamic!
😂 if you ever want to keep a kid happy give them a torch 🔦 😉. Charlie was being very good and demonstrating great self control for a toddler .
Re skegs.. watch the bearfoot doctors latest episode a Q&A on this topic.
I commented on the bow option elswhere.
Theres another item my brains had a freeze on for now but i will return to it if ... Bingo😂 ...look at Sailing with the Whinns two weeks ago with a corrosion issue on their new composite cat and what they found.
Wow yes I looked at putting carbon on here until I found out how good a conductor it is. It does make me feel better that even brand new boats have problems with stray current lol.
-sam
Hi again guys. Interesting video. 8 anodes seems excessive. Time will tell!
I once read an article re the use of anodes simply dangled over the side bonded to the hull or whatever you are trying to protect. Obviously not a good idea under way but most boats spend most of the time at anchor or in a marina. Might be worth investigating for your marginal 6m distant area.
My boat has 2 main anodes like yours, collar anodes on the 2 props and collar anodes on the sail drives. I have been changing anodes for 20+ years!!. I used to need to change all the collar anodes twice per year but lately this has become once per year and 3 weeks ago i beached to change them and they were all fine....virtually untouched. My sail drives are 22 years old with no corrosion at all. I have no idea why things have changed!
I also have a Highfield aluminium rib which has sat in a marina for 10 years. There is one small anode on the hydraulic trim and tilt mechanism but nothing on the hull. The hull has zero corrosion even where i have chipped the paint. There are no through hulls on the rib and no electrics operating when sat idle.
I have also seen videos on utube of alumium boats pitted all over below the waterline. Goodness knows why sometimes boats corrode and sometimes dont! I even studied corrosion science as part of my engineering degree but it hasnt helped.
Hey again Chris!
Thank you so much, we enjoy reading your comments.
Yes I was excessive and we are super happy with the way these recessed boxes have come out 🙌
We will be doing an update after we've had them for a while (and in the water sailing) to see and show how they are doing.
There are some more big changes happening to the boat soon,stay tuned!
Cait
I have not heard of recessing the anode's before. I hope they still work well. Cutting the skegs off would really set the cat amongst the pigeons lol . Are you going to be having any sort of small board to stop sideways movement of the cat when sailing and especially moving around in a marina with a bit of wind that might push you sideways?
Hi Stephen, yeah as long as the annodes have water flow over them then they will work fine. If it's a super small surface area then that would affect it sometimes but ours theoretically should be OK lol. We have dagger boards that protrude about 1 Meter below the hull so if it's windy we will put them down a bit when parking in the Marina.
-sam
Great idea!
How thick is the hull plating under the waterline?
This is what I love about an aluminium hull, it's so easy to modify and repair things.
Thank you! We are 4mm thick hull plating. Yes the alloy has been really amazing to work with and super strong. Love our alloy cat
-Cait
Interesting to hear your thoughts for removing the skegs. Im thinking that your removing them to help with drag? But im thinking that will leave your props and rudders unprotected, and stop you from being able to beach it.
You are right on all accounts but I can't elaborate to much as it's all explained in next week's video l. Cait will kill me if I spoil it.
Sam
interesting move on removing the skegs. im guessing you guys are condering modifying for more protection on the rutters?
It has been quite the topic around the boat yard are not adding more protection for the rudders, the skegs were the protection and they will be staying off. We will be explaining everything in next week's video 🙌😉✨️ must say she looks very good!
-Cait
I'm wondering if there is as much drag from having water flow disrupted by the recessed boxes vs anodes in a tear drop shape but attached flush to the hull? It was a courageous move cutting four square holes in each hull...
Hahaha yes it was lol. Our annodes were not flush to the hull and when I did my research I read some where that a spitfires wing has less drag than an inch round pole purely due to shape. Another option that we looked into was welding in the existing mounts so that the existing annodes were flush. The welder informed us that we could not re-use the mounts and it would be a similar cost to make boxes so we went with that. We are on the count down to getting launched and are excited to see how much difference it will make. I believe at the lower speeds the difference will be marginal but once we get her moving we should really see some returns on our efforts.
-sam
I always thought ( I think from Nigel Calder) that there should be "line of sight" placement of the anodes from the anode to the dissimilar metal it is protecting, like stainless prop shafts and/or rudder shafts. But maybe that is only for GRP boats and not alloy boats? What's your understanding on that point?
I have never heard of line of sight with regards to annodes. Now days with all the different hull shapes out there it would make that rule harder to follow. Generally speaking the annode is good for a 6m wetted surface radius. So If you have a deep draft then that would also affect how may you have. Again like the line of sight rule this is a broad general rule that a lot of specifics could change things. Eg how the boat is wired (MEN, above ground...) where you power generation is, if you have a lot of electrical items. Any faults of your electrics... we have chosen to go with the minimum amount of annodes as we live aboard and can monitor it all the time.
-sam
@@sailingwiththejamessfyi the line of sight placement is referenced by several of the anode manufacturers and by my gurus for all things marine electrical, Steve D’Antonio and Nigel Calder. The suggestion is to put the anode as close to the metal to be protected as practicable or at least within line of sight between the two. This is, as I understand it, related to the electrical field strength between them when immersed in seawater, ie too far apart and the anode effectiveness is diminished.
Cheers for the clarification. It does make sense for galvanic corrosion as the irons only travel in Strait lines in salt water. We don't have dissimilar metals below the waterline apart from our running gear. The 6m rule is for stray current electrolysis and electrolytic corrosion. This is a big problem on aluminium boats.
-sam