They call me two time Timmy because I always have to shit back apart and do it again haha! Thanks for these great videos just got a UDR and really want these to match my dads long travel buggy!🤟
Building mine tonight. Finishing up the first one. About to put the 2nd together. Man I kept having o-rings blow out when I was pushing the shock in/out. Then I'd take those loose and put grease, tighten down just barely and it worked for a minute and blew out again. If I tighten too much, it squeezes the o-ring out lol. Used Teflon tape on every cap and every adjuster screw, no more leaks now. Lol it was leaking from every single point except the shock shaft at first lol
@@rcilluminati26 Yeah that o-ring in bag 9 going onto 10 definitely did not seem right. I had to work those with my finger nails pushing the o-ring back in and right tighten. I used a silicone based grease on everything rubber, some petroleum grease can eat up the rubber. The worst seals about leaking on mine was the tiny ones for the adjuster screws, under the lock nut. I ended up wrapping the screw in teflon tape, then putting the o-ring right above it. Put the adjuster in where I wanted and tighten down the lock nut. It pushes the o-ring & teflon tape enough to seal it. Now I'm not sure if I trust them to not leak lol. Are they supposed to have a lot of pressure at the top of the stroke? That pressure is what was blowing my O-rings out.
@@TheAmericanUhate I think the pressure was your problem. I filled the negative chamber and main body then pushed the piston halfway into negative chamber. Then slowly inserted shaft keeping the negative piston halfway down then tightened the seal head with the shaft fully in. You don’t want any pressure when fully compressed.
@@rcilluminati26 yeah I filled the large side chamber first and let it fill the piston tube from the bottom. Had the bottom spring in, filled, piston in half way down, put the other spring in, and topped off, then the cap on it. I noticed I let a little fluid out and they work like normal shocks. Right now they're soft on bottom and get stiff at the top. I think that 40 weight was too light, going to try some 55 weight.
Where’s the video of you installing them on the udr ? GREAT HOW TO VIDEO . What to do on the spacers for the top and bottom of the damper to the truck ?
Not sure I have any video of the install. They mount like the standard ones do, you just need to figure out the left vs right so the larger shock doesnt rub on anything
Are you changing the oil weight or anything in the sprung shock, so it's travel doesn't slow down/drown out the bypass adjustments? Like the bypass goes lighter on rebound, but the other shock is still going at it's own rate and slows rebound down before the bypass can do it's thing?
@@jlo96f3 the length is correct, 160 rear, 135 front. There is just not enough of an opening in the upper front control arm to fit the bypass. Apparently LX is making upper arms to work with the shocks.
One cylinder for compression, one cylinder for rebound. Cool!!!😏
They call me two time Timmy because I always have to shit back apart and do it again haha! Thanks for these great videos just got a UDR and really want these to match my dads long travel buggy!🤟
Lol, yeah, these are pretty complex but very cool to mess with and they look sick
Building mine tonight. Finishing up the first one. About to put the 2nd together. Man I kept having o-rings blow out when I was pushing the shock in/out. Then I'd take those loose and put grease, tighten down just barely and it worked for a minute and blew out again. If I tighten too much, it squeezes the o-ring out lol. Used Teflon tape on every cap and every adjuster screw, no more leaks now. Lol it was leaking from every single point except the shock shaft at first lol
Hmmm, interesting. Did you grease the o-rings? I really had to stretch mine over the threads on the caps too, were yours this tight?
@@rcilluminati26 Yeah that o-ring in bag 9 going onto 10 definitely did not seem right. I had to work those with my finger nails pushing the o-ring back in and right tighten. I used a silicone based grease on everything rubber, some petroleum grease can eat up the rubber. The worst seals about leaking on mine was the tiny ones for the adjuster screws, under the lock nut. I ended up wrapping the screw in teflon tape, then putting the o-ring right above it. Put the adjuster in where I wanted and tighten down the lock nut. It pushes the o-ring & teflon tape enough to seal it. Now I'm not sure if I trust them to not leak lol. Are they supposed to have a lot of pressure at the top of the stroke? That pressure is what was blowing my O-rings out.
@@TheAmericanUhate I think the pressure was your problem.
I filled the negative chamber and main body then pushed the piston halfway into negative chamber. Then slowly inserted shaft keeping the negative piston halfway down then tightened the seal head with the shaft fully in. You don’t want any pressure when fully compressed.
@@rcilluminati26 yeah I filled the large side chamber first and let it fill the piston tube from the bottom. Had the bottom spring in, filled, piston in half way down, put the other spring in, and topped off, then the cap on it. I noticed I let a little fluid out and they work like normal shocks. Right now they're soft on bottom and get stiff at the top. I think that 40 weight was too light, going to try some 55 weight.
Super informative. Thank you very much.
Where’s the video of you installing them on the udr ? GREAT HOW TO VIDEO . What to do on the spacers for the top and bottom of the damper to the truck ?
Not sure I have any video of the install. They mount like the standard ones do, you just need to figure out the left vs right so the larger shock doesnt rub on anything
Very interested.just cause its cool
Are you changing the oil weight or anything in the sprung shock, so it's travel doesn't slow down/drown out the bypass adjustments? Like the bypass goes lighter on rebound, but the other shock is still going at it's own rate and slows rebound down before the bypass can do it's thing?
Once I get this shock dialed a bit more that might be a good idea. It depends on how much damping these can handle. Will be doing some testing soon.
Are you going to put those shocks in the front too? So it doesn’t look uneven
I need to check if there’s clearance in the front. These are pretty large.
I have a good fix for the front that’s way cheaper. Video soon.
I thought the have the correct lengths for front and back?
@@jlo96f3 the length is correct, 160 rear, 135 front. There is just not enough of an opening in the upper front control arm to fit the bypass. Apparently LX is making upper arms to work with the shocks.