The cables are available Vicki. You'll need to know which machine you own. As I mentioned, look for the engine tag on the machine, which will have an "S" number. That decal on the machine in this video says "S-25" indicating that it's either a T-25 (trimmer), or a C-25(brush CUTTER), depending on which handlebar it has. Or reference the big decal on the face of the machine, like how you see that there's a large "25" on the machine in this video. If your machine is missing both identifying decals, compare it to the machines in my videos, or the machines that you see for sale on ebay, and you'll be able to figure out which machine you have. There weren't many that had the TK slide carburetors.
@ToddM appreciate your videos on this and the C35. I am currently restoring a T25 myself. When putting the driveshaft on, would you recommend lube of any kind on the splines or in the housing/coupler on the engine and or gearbox side?
Originally the driveshafts were coated in a thin grease because the tube contains a number of plastic bushings that the driveshaft runs in. So when I service them, or in this case, put a machine back together that's in unknown condition, I do coat them and put a little on the ends where they engage the clutch drum and the gear box. I'm not a fan of white lithium grease, so I typically use something that's a better quality.
I own one of these sadily i dont know were to find the fuel tank and piston rings i need to replace them.fuel tank is rotted and cracked and while i tried to free up the piston rings they broke
PartsTree has the rings in stock: www.partstree.com/models/t-25-shindaiwa-string-trimmer/piston-clutch-shoe-13/ You'll need a cylinder base gasket, and the gasket for between the carb and the intake block, if you remove the carb. I'm currently working on finding a fuel tank that can be used, and will have a video out this week. There is a seller on ebay with 2 complete engines with fuel tanks
Todd, are the 2 O rings just generic rubber o rings ? My carb kit did not come with them. I am not getting the carb to lever out fuel after priming it over and over. It has a new fuel line and pick up bit in the tank. Any comments gladly considered...
The 2 o-rings where the pump mounts, I think "could" be replaced with regular o-rings. The one down where that fuel release valve parks, is a special one. The kits are still available, using the part number that I show in the video, on ebay. If your carb isn't pumping up, make sure that the brass check ball rattles in that inlet fitting, like I show in the video, and make sure that the pump housing diaphragms are in the correct order. If the pump flap diaphragm isn't in the right order, the flaps won't work. As your squeezing the bulb on the fuel hose, depress the fuel discharge lever and hold it like that. Then pump quite a few times on the fuel hose. Then release the lever, pump a bunch, release the lever, pump a bunch, and keep doing that until you start to hear that squishing sound between your fingers in the bulb, and you'll start to feel some pressure because the bulb then has fuel in it. The carb should then pump up, and fuel will start moving through it and out of it when you hit the lever. If you installed a new fuel hose inside the fuel tank, and it was a cheap replica, instead of OEM, the check valve is probably junk, so the entire fuel system will not work. The bulb on the fuel hose can only pump fuel into the carburetor if the check valve below it, inside the fuel tank, is closing, and preventing the bulb from just pushing fuel back down into the tank.
I recommend the Echo Red Armor pre mix gas for that old Shindaiwa
Echo's Red Armor is the best in the business!
That slide carburetor is a problem and I just don't know where to go about getting a cable to operate it.. I didn't know if you would have any ideas.
The cables are available Vicki. You'll need to know which machine you own. As I mentioned, look for the engine tag on the machine, which will have an "S" number. That decal on the machine in this video says "S-25" indicating that it's either a T-25 (trimmer), or a C-25(brush CUTTER), depending on which handlebar it has. Or reference the big decal on the face of the machine, like how you see that there's a large "25" on the machine in this video.
If your machine is missing both identifying decals, compare it to the machines in my videos, or the machines that you see for sale on ebay, and you'll be able to figure out which machine you have. There weren't many that had the TK slide carburetors.
@ToddM appreciate your videos on this and the C35. I am currently restoring a T25 myself. When putting the driveshaft on, would you recommend lube of any kind on the splines or in the housing/coupler on the engine and or gearbox side?
Originally the driveshafts were coated in a thin grease because the tube contains a number of plastic bushings that the driveshaft runs in. So when I service them, or in this case, put a machine back together that's in unknown condition, I do coat them and put a little on the ends where they engage the clutch drum and the gear box. I'm not a fan of white lithium grease, so I typically use something that's a better quality.
@@austinado16thank you for your feedback. Unit is running, once I find a gearbox I’ll have everything I need to put it back together.
I own one of these sadily i dont know were to find the fuel tank and piston rings i need to replace them.fuel tank is rotted and cracked and while i tried to free up the piston rings they broke
PartsTree has the rings in stock: www.partstree.com/models/t-25-shindaiwa-string-trimmer/piston-clutch-shoe-13/
You'll need a cylinder base gasket, and the gasket for between the carb and the intake block, if you remove the carb.
I'm currently working on finding a fuel tank that can be used, and will have a video out this week. There is a seller on ebay with 2 complete engines with fuel tanks
New video uploaded as promised: ua-cam.com/video/EEODRWxHZGA/v-deo.html
Todd, are the 2 O rings just generic rubber o rings ? My carb kit did not come with them. I am not getting the carb to lever out fuel after priming it over and over. It has a new fuel line and pick up bit in the tank. Any comments gladly considered...
The 2 o-rings where the pump mounts, I think "could" be replaced with regular o-rings. The one down where that fuel release valve parks, is a special one. The kits are still available, using the part number that I show in the video, on ebay.
If your carb isn't pumping up, make sure that the brass check ball rattles in that inlet fitting, like I show in the video, and make sure that the pump housing diaphragms are in the correct order. If the pump flap diaphragm isn't in the right order, the flaps won't work.
As your squeezing the bulb on the fuel hose, depress the fuel discharge lever and hold it like that. Then pump quite a few times on the fuel hose. Then release the lever, pump a bunch, release the lever, pump a bunch, and keep doing that until you start to hear that squishing sound between your fingers in the bulb, and you'll start to feel some pressure because the bulb then has fuel in it. The carb should then pump up, and fuel will start moving through it and out of it when you hit the lever.
If you installed a new fuel hose inside the fuel tank, and it was a cheap replica, instead of OEM, the check valve is probably junk, so the entire fuel system will not work. The bulb on the fuel hose can only pump fuel into the carburetor if the check valve below it, inside the fuel tank, is closing, and preventing the bulb from just pushing fuel back down into the tank.
What did you spray inside the carb?
I always use Berryman's Chemtool carburetor cleaner.
The other 2 products I use regularly in the videos are Kroil, and TriFlow.
@@austinado16 Exellente video,,,,Done,,,fixed thanks. But my shindaiwa say S25 and your say T25 and looks same.
@@12misericordia Great job fixing it!