I have an stihl 131R that broke the piston , My neighbor put the piston on it, it only turned on for 5 seconds and went off. Do I have to sand the cylinder before installing the piston? what could it be
Hi ToddM I had a Stihl Leaf blower come in that the bottom bearings had seized up, and the primer bulb was full of fuel with a hit of 2 stroke red. Customer didn't put the correct mix in as it made it smoke to much 🤦
Before I got my 131 sthil some one had been in side it before didn’t have not 1 gasket in it and someone was running straight gas in it and the lobes where the wrist pin was broke and shot the pisten to the top of the head
The Stihl engines are glued together with a red silicone product, at the factory. The only gasket is the cork gasket under the valve cover, and of course the base gasket for the carburetor, and base gasket for the intake block. They're tough little engines, but not without their faults, and straight-gassing them is always going to destroy them.
A lot of these fellas are going super cheap on the mix oil. I'm guessing it's because they see it as an added expense, and with gasoline at $5 per gallon here, they're feeling ripped off. A few scenarios wind up happening: They forget to put mix in. They use a very small amount of mix. They buy extremely cheap mix, which is clear (what this customer routinely does). And in addition, they remove the debris shields so that they can run the string long, and get more done, faster. 100% recipe for destroyed engines, and clutches. I had a burned up PB-770H a few days ago, with the operator saying he uses mix, ALWAYS. The piston and cylinder were deeply scored, 360 degrees, which means extremely small amount of mix oil, and then run the engine for several hours doing huge parking lots, until it no longer restarts, because the compression is only 70psi.
@austinado16 Do you see any benefit with these 4Mix engines of running the mix a tad more oily? I know a lot of professional chainsaw guys that use 40:1 instead of the 50:1 that Stihl recommends. I've never done that with my 2 stroke engines...but I may be about to get a 4-mix trimmer, and with all of those extra moving parts, I am left wondering.
@@animalmother556x45 I tell all of my customers to be doing this, especially the ones who I know are doing big "field clearing weed abatement" and large parking lot jobs. I also do it with my own equipment, and especially oily heavy on the machines that I repair or fix-and-sell, so that they leave protected, which is why you'll see smoky exhaust on most of what I start and run here on the channel. Oil is cheap... Engines, not so much!
@@jeffdenney4148 It's tough to accurately diagnose from behind the keyboard Jeff. Make sure the air filter is OEM and new. If the carburetor has been replaced by a cheap replica, replace it and the base gasket with an OEM Zama carburetor. Make sure the fuel filter is OEM, not a replica, and it's new. Verify the fuel tank vent functions. Adjust the valves to spec and leave the exhaust valve just a littler looser than spec, so that the valve runs cooler(because it spends more time closed and transferring its heat to the cylinder head). Verify the clutch drum bearing are still good (silent and smooth). Verify the driveshaft is not only lubed, but that it hasn't been run so hot that it's melted the nylon liner that it runs in. Verify the gear box spins silent and smooth, and grease it if it's good. If you run the machine with the debris shield removed and the string long, that will overload and overheat everything: gear box, drive shaft, nylon liner, clutch bearings, clutch assembly, crankshaft bearings, piston, wrist pin, cylinder, and destroy the machine.
Excellent video
Thank you!
I have an stihl 131R that broke the piston , My neighbor put the piston on it, it only turned on for 5 seconds and went off. Do I have to sand the cylinder before installing the piston? what could it be
There's no way for me to accurately know what's going on with your machine.
You done an excellent job of saving this unit. Great video!!
Thank you very much!
Hi ToddM
I had a Stihl Leaf blower come in that the bottom bearings had seized up, and the primer bulb was full of fuel with a hit of 2 stroke red.
Customer didn't put the correct mix in as it made it smoke to much 🤦
Hi Dug!
People sure are hard on their equipment! They're lucky to have you as their mechanic!
@austinado16 thank you. I try my best, but recently, I've noticed a lack of quality in machinery compared to when I started up 14 years ago.
@@DugatDizzyLizzys I see it also.
Sorry sir I see the gasket stuff now awesome job
How much does a repair like this cost? I’m guessing it’s still cheaper than a new machine.
Depending on overall condition and age of machine, it's usually worth doing.
Before I got my 131 sthil some one had been in side it before didn’t have not 1 gasket in it and someone was running straight gas in it and the lobes where the wrist pin was broke and shot the pisten to the top of the head
The Stihl engines are glued together with a red silicone product, at the factory. The only gasket is the cork gasket under the valve cover, and of course the base gasket for the carburetor, and base gasket for the intake block. They're tough little engines, but not without their faults, and straight-gassing them is always going to destroy them.
Someone needs to get a metal tag with “MIXED!” stamped in it, and attach it to this fella’s fuel cap. I assume he is just forgetting?
A lot of these fellas are going super cheap on the mix oil. I'm guessing it's because they see it as an added expense, and with gasoline at $5 per gallon here, they're feeling ripped off. A few scenarios wind up happening: They forget to put mix in. They use a very small amount of mix. They buy extremely cheap mix, which is clear (what this customer routinely does). And in addition, they remove the debris shields so that they can run the string long, and get more done, faster. 100% recipe for destroyed engines, and clutches. I had a burned up PB-770H a few days ago, with the operator saying he uses mix, ALWAYS. The piston and cylinder were deeply scored, 360 degrees, which means extremely small amount of mix oil, and then run the engine for several hours doing huge parking lots, until it no longer restarts, because the compression is only 70psi.
@austinado16 Do you see any benefit with these 4Mix engines of running the mix a tad more oily? I know a lot of professional chainsaw guys that use 40:1 instead of the 50:1 that Stihl recommends.
I've never done that with my 2 stroke engines...but I may be about to get a 4-mix trimmer, and with all of those extra moving parts, I am left wondering.
@@animalmother556x45 I tell all of my customers to be doing this, especially the ones who I know are doing big "field clearing weed abatement" and large parking lot jobs. I also do it with my own equipment, and especially oily heavy on the machines that I repair or fix-and-sell, so that they leave protected, which is why you'll see smoky exhaust on most of what I start and run here on the channel. Oil is cheap... Engines, not so much!
@@austinado16 I appreciate the insight, sir. Thanks!
@@animalmother556x45 You're welcome. You may have really good service from Echo's Red Armor mix oil.
Why no gasket maker
If you watch the video, you'll see I'm using anaerobic sealant at 14:40 15:40 and I talk about it at the 2nd time stamp.
@@austinado16 I have the same weed eater runs good but when I use it it loses power any idea what I could do to fix it by the way great video thanks
@@jeffdenney4148 It's tough to accurately diagnose from behind the keyboard Jeff.
Make sure the air filter is OEM and new. If the carburetor has been replaced by a cheap replica, replace it and the base gasket with an OEM Zama carburetor. Make sure the fuel filter is OEM, not a replica, and it's new. Verify the fuel tank vent functions. Adjust the valves to spec and leave the exhaust valve just a littler looser than spec, so that the valve runs cooler(because it spends more time closed and transferring its heat to the cylinder head). Verify the clutch drum bearing are still good (silent and smooth). Verify the driveshaft is not only lubed, but that it hasn't been run so hot that it's melted the nylon liner that it runs in. Verify the gear box spins silent and smooth, and grease it if it's good. If you run the machine with the debris shield removed and the string long, that will overload and overheat everything: gear box, drive shaft, nylon liner, clutch bearings, clutch assembly, crankshaft bearings, piston, wrist pin, cylinder, and destroy the machine.
@@austinado16that’s the most thorough comment on diagnosing an engine I’ve ever heard
@@SammyEddie Thank you.
Does the customer know that because its a 4 stroke that it still uses 2 cycle fuel
Yes, and this is the 3rd machine that's been seized, in the same manner, and repaired the same way.
Ouch
You would think they would just run some oil in the gas before the engine seized instead of after…makes more sense to me, but what do I know?
Exactly!
What a mess but if it works that’s all that matters
It immediately went right back to being flogged to death, 6 days a week, and it's still in service.
You are doing things way too complicated for me.great job though.
Thank you!