Installing A SIP Panel Roof On A Timber Frame House | Martha’s Vineyard | Ep. 5
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- Опубліковано 23 лис 2021
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Measure twice, and cut once!
In Episode 5 of our Martha’s Vineyard build, Gaius & the Shelter crew install a pre-finished tongue-and-groove plank ceiling before swinging in the SIP roof panels.
To top it all off, they finish with a beautiful blue metal roof to close out the building envelope and get closer to the finish line of building this timber frame house!
In the next episode, we actually get back to some more timber framing - adding some nice timber framed covered entries to the 24’ x 36’ main structure.
Enjoy!
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We have taught thousands of ordinary people how to build their own timber frame structure, starting with raw timbers & ending with a beautiful 24' x 24' structure.
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Just stunning. The more I watch timber frame builds, the more I hope to someday build one. Great stuff.
Thank you very much!
I was watching the previous episode when this upload showed up in my notifications! 🤘
i did it the easy way....spec'ed the ridge beam for the span and hung 8 inch sips with triple 2x8 's in the panel edge ....easy and fast.....only tricky part was tilting the panel so the edge would glove together along the edge joint ...after two courses the crane driver had it down pat we did 54 ft long roof with two 8 ft dormers ( built on the ground with pre-cut sips, and flown with crane) in a day.....lots of sweat in March in Georgia....hasn't leaked a drop in 26 years so we did something right
We want a gap so we can visually inspect it and fell it. Loved it!!!🤣🤣🤣
Loving these videos! They really help us to see how you all put a true timber frame house together as well as explaining how you do things the way you do. Learning a lot watching them. Thank you for sharing what you do.
Nice work Shelter Team. Great information.
Love the bloopers!
Great video
How do you vent the roof. I live in N.E Washington state and on a cathedral ceiling without trusses and attic space code says we have leave a 2 inch air gap between roof sheeting and insulation. Air flows through a bug screen vent in the soffits up to a vented ridgecap. There is a 2 inch space left between sheeting and ridge beam. Venting the roof helps cool it in the summer and also keeps dry rot from occurring. I didn't see if you had an air gap between the pine ceiling and the sip roof panels. Is there no roof venting code back east like there is out here?One rule we have out west here is no osb on the roof for sheeting. Its absolute junk, once it gets moisture it swells and rots. Also we put a lot of metal roofs on and osb doesn't hold screws nearly as well as 5/8 inch plywood. Take a sheet of plywood and osb and throw them out on the ground all winter. The osb will be twice as thick and falling apart and the plywood will dry out and be fine. Why don't you put a superior product on the roof? Do your suppliers give you a choice on the sip panel sheeting??It's only $5 to $10 more per sheet. I know that that adds up but you built a timber frame that will last hundreds of years. Why compromise the structure with woodchips n glue a few thousand $$ in good plywood only makes sense to me. Not trying to be a troll. You have very informative videos. Just hate osb especially on a timber frame.
The roof underlayment will protect the OSB, with this slope this roof is good for 50 years.
The roof panels may be, but the fasteners are Not guarenteed that long. Typically 10 years before their warranty runs out. Save yourself the trouble and get snap lock standing seam. Dramatically better product and looks much better too
Great vidio!!
I like zip system to protect that great artwork and investment underneath
Love your guys work. But a hint of constructive criticism: If you have crew on a roof, pls have them harnessed and roped off. Safety only takes 10 mins.
Thanks for all the details! I actually just built my first SIPs home and we love it! I Have to agree with wildtwindad, please be safe. I am not even a full time contractor but I did spend the 100$ to get a very nice harness and rope rig. I work in healthcare full time and can tell you one fall will forever change your life. Thanks y’all 🙏🏻
Beautiful music!
Great video, and I like the leaving in the blooper stuff. That's good - keeps it light. I am interested in timber framing an unheated building so I think that means I will not be getting involved with SIPs yet, right? Anyway, great stuff and good teaching. I'm telling my friends!
I was impressed with the Gypsum first before exterior walls(Sips). Was the use of Sips cost effective?
I am not a builder, but instead of knocking the excess foam off, what are your thoughts about putting tape on the hole you are filling so the foam expands more inward than outward?
shouldnt you lay water rolls not vertically but horizontally from bottom to top, then attach 1x1 wood vertically to form air gap, and then 1x1 horizontal wood for metal sheets to attach to.
How would you add a fire rating to your roof when you have beams and T&G? Where does the gypsum get attached? Thanks!
How do you address the vapor being trapped at the roof peak described by joe lstiburek, especially in SIPs panels
What is the reasoning behind running your panels in the same direction as the trusses? Also why was there no barrier be tween the roof boards and the Roof SIPs, if moisture is to get through those roof boards it will rot the roof panel.
Great question Keegan! The entire roof assembly is air sealed with expanding foam, which prevents air and moisture migration into the roof assembly. We prefer to run the panels vertically because it is then a monolithic block of foam and OSB that runs top to bottom, again minimizing air/moisture migration.
The problem with foam is that over a few years it will "dry out", lose it's adhesion, and usually shrink and then becomes useless as an insulator.
Only if it's exposed to UV
I was a spray foam contractor, and can tell you that it all depends upon the type of product you’re using. Some will do like you said, but others such as a properly proportioned and properly applied closed cell polyurethane will not loose adhesion or break down. The key is that it MUST be done correctly.
Closed cell on house I grew up in done in 70's was reexposed in 2011.
Not even a hint of shrinkage. It is nearly impossible to remove old roof sheathing.
Closed cell in walls and ceiling.
Why use an exposed fastener roof vs standing seam especially over SIPs ?
Cost.
I don’t understand how the electrical is installed, after the drywall is installed??
Clark Griswold?
no crosshatched battens? Is it because Marthas vineyard is windy?
So a quick question how does condensation affect the roof ? SiPs
There's so many factors, basically it depends what's underneath the sheeting. If you have lots of ventilation from the outdoors going into your attic space, think about that the attic is should be the same temperature as it is outdoors. If you have insulation and it's not enough, you get heat loss in your attic that's when you see moisture in your attic, this product can work but there's a magic formula between temperature, ventilation, and the right installation. I can see it being an awesome product, but it's easy to get it wrong
@@curtiswilliams7638 I see I noticed once the tongue and grooves are installed the SIPS were put into place was this only for Martha's Vinyard project because of the climate ?
all that trouble and they use OSB.
Looks like 6 1/2" walls and 9 1/2" roof? That seems about average for the walls but thin for the roof? I realize these things are very location and build specific. Is there a reason you went thinner on the roof SIP? Thanks.
Roof without ridge beam/trusses or ties ? Wheres the catch?
Amazing work...
I just want to know, is the presidents nickname Cezar? I know that worksites are abundant with nicknames, and a man with a spectacular and cool name like Gaius is surely not off limits just because he runs the show...
This is Gaius.........I've been hoping for a 'cool' nickname my whole life. Can we agree on Cesar? Google tells me it means 'thick head of hair', which adds beautifully to the irony.
@@ShelterInstitute oh, I now see that I misspelled it. I was aiming at Gaius Julius Caesar, I just spelled it as it is spelled in my language (croatian).
But as you say, my spelling works as an ironic nickname, as he had a great hairdo. Not so sure about his nose, tho :D
Thanks for the reply, btw. You guys do a fantastic job, I subscribed and eagerly await more videos.
@@jakovbrizic we assumed so! Thanks for the feedback.
There is no ventilation gap under that metal roofing, is there? The snow melting isn't an issue in that particular locality, or I am however missing something?
Good question. In that climate, the R value of the roof is sufficient to prevent snow melt from interior heat loss.
@@ShelterInstitute thank you very much for the explanation.
What is the underlayment on the roof? It looked different than the Benjamin Obdyke stuff on the walls.
That is a product called Roof Top Guard II......approved for use under metal.
What's the pitch of that roof
"Nope" 🤣🤣🤣
why didn't you stagger the joints on the t&g?
Good question. We do not stager the joints because it is not a structural layer.
You build this tremendously expensive building on a tremendously expensive piece of land using super nice tech like T&G pine panels on the roof then you place a metal roof on the structure ; which is extremely fitting for the building however; in order to prevent leaking and future problems it’s all dependent on a “Rubber Washer” that seats the screws (hundreds of them if not thousands) on the roof???
And you can be assured unless each person installing the screws has someone coming right behind them checking each screw , some were placed on incorrectly?
Being a contractor that specializes in finish work I exclude what I believe are bad choices for the customer that leads to failures ? For me it’s MDF? Thee only place I will install it is in cabinet door panels ? Not in interior or exterior “doors”.
Your customer should hv those washers checked and replaced at least 15-20 yrs. and inspected in a atmosphere like that every 3-5 yrs.
I know you would not choose it ? As I would not Choose MDF therefore it’s out of the line-up for me? I am curious why you allowed it to be used after all you did?
I could be all wet too ?
We installed our first exposed fastener metal roof in 1978.........Gaius installed the same product on his timber frame/SIP home in 1995..............we installed the same product on our timber frame/SIP store-classrom in 1998. In short, we believe in this roofing system and it has served us and our customers well for decades.
? ? ?
@@vdpeer yea; I looked back at this and said “he should hv blocked me”! See what happens when you live alone and hv no one to talk to after work???
Your a great builder!
Why 4 foot wide roof SIPs and not 8 foot wide roof SIPs? Fewer seams.
Panel manufacturers are tooled up for ether 4' or 8' wide panels, rarely both. Our manufacturer makes 4' panels. We have worked with 8' panels from other manufacturers in the past-they are great, but a little harder on the crew.
He blame the factory made panels but he house was most likely not square. You need an high-temperature roof underlayment, screws are supposed to be between the ribs (EPDM washer screws must seat on a flat surface). Metal roofs are good for 50 years so no biggies.
One thing about a energy efficient houses I don't get it though: all that energy we save by making the house airtight, we loose it by using air con, humidifiers or deshumidifiers to make the air breathable and comfortable. How do these houses breathe? I remember my grand parents houses (back in the 60's and 70's) where the walls were made out of clay mixed with horse dung and straws, and coated with limewash. Allways cool in summer, warm in winter and never, ever a fly inside. Plus never too humid, nor too dry. The walls needed to be maintained every 6-7 years though. So, in our search for the perfection, aren't we getting quite the opposite result?
In the UK atleast, the energy saved from reduced heating is far in excess of the additional energy used to run the ventilation system
On average, homes lose or gain about 40% of their heat through air infiltration. Year after year, this far outweighs the energy used for a properly designed ventilation or a/c system, and the house is far healthier and more comfortable. We recommend the use of heat recovery ventilators or energy recovery ventilators for fresh air; as the names imply, at least a portion of the heat (HRV) is transferred to the incoming air stream through a heat transfer mechanism and a portion of the sensible cooling load (ERV) is transferred through a mixing of the air streams that allows moisture from the incoming air to be transferred to the already dehumidified outgoing air. Both of these systems are a great way to further improve on energy efficiency while providing required ventilation.
@@ShelterInstitute Thank you for not throwing away my question and taking the time to reply.
"people in charge of the weather" LOL only one is in charge of the weather is God. Otherwise good work