Just found your channel :-) What a beautiful and informative movie! Thanx for al the little tricks you shared. I specially like the curved braces and to put them in both different ways. Not every thing has to be made like in a schoolbook - It will add some kind of freedom spirit to your cabbine. As i am working similar project, there is one question turning around in my mind: Is it possible to use fresh wood or is it necessary to let it dry first? What did you use for your timber frame?
There might be different approaches to this topic. I would say, that it is an advantage to use dry wood. But to get dry wood ( naturally dried) in these dimension is maybe rather unrealistic. I would not use machine dried wood. So, in most cases it ends up with more or less fresh wood. The pine (used on the braces and as arched braces in the previous video) is harvested one year ago. So it is 'half' dried, at least well settled. The spruce (post & beams) are harvested just few weeks ago. But i had the chance to find standing dead wood. It had many years to settle and dry in a very gentle way. In my eyes, this is the best wood to use for timber framing - if available. Storm or bug damaged wood might be a similar source.
I like your method of marking a pencil line, by sneaking the square up onto it. Never seen that before, but I sure will be using it forward! Thank you. And very nice, precision cutting. I wish for you, a nice wooden handle on your crosscut saw :) Also, very sharp chisels - beautiful result. Congrats Sir!
Das habe ich sehr gerne angeschaut. Vielleicht werde ich die Verbindung zu übernehmen, um eine kleine Abstützung fur einen Druckertisch zu bauen, der bisher auf vier Beinen steht.
Thank you for this interesting video on an interesting topic! It seems to me, that you are using a rather small cordless drill - for this rather big job. Would you share some of your ideas and expirience about it?
Yes, it is a small machine. I was looking for something 'made in Europe', or at least not from China. There is Mafell, Festool and Fein. (did i forget something?) This Fein has 12 V only, but four gears, the first one is rather slow but very strong. I can drill wholes till 50 mm in wood. Screws, 25cm by 6mm no problem. For the wholes it is anyways better to turn slow, to not overheat the drill, and for the screws, i do not care if it takes 3 seconds more or less. I rarely put more than 10 this sized screws in a row. The advantage is, that this machine is much lighter than all these oversized 18V monsters. Hope there was something helpful for you ;-)
@@littleforest ah nice! :) and I think you are right, only finding a few things from that brand for sale secondhand online. Have searched and searched for fabric in that pattern, no luck on an exact match yet. But maybe I’ll find something close and make one!
Please find a better solution for camera holding. I almost got seasick from watching 😂 ..other than that - beautiful work. A true craftsman in action 👌
Oh yes, i have had it in mind since a while... I am than wondering if i focus on finding a new stand or putting the new floor first (which is now the source of the shaking). Let's see, where the flow is leading ;-)
My Fein driller, i really like it - small, light but very strong. Even with the small 12 V akku, i go nearly the whole day. The four gears have been a good invention. Can really recommend it, specially for someone who is looking for something made in Europe (Machine from Germany, Akku from Poland, charger from Vietnam) I have never had a Maffel driller in my hands yet - so, i can't compare.
Sorry for the long comment, but perhaps you will find this information both corrective and useful in your future work...You kind of lost me on this one with "strong joint" unless that was a question (?) which in this case is, "Sorry, no, not really, for several reasons." First, I think this is out of context with Steve's work. Second, your relationship within the video's demonstration of a European version of a joint as compared to Japanese (or Asian timber frame joinery) is out of context as this more reinvented (or reinterpreted) European styles of joinery to some degree, and applying them to what is Asian modalities, while using a "mill rule" or "edge rule" layout system rather than what is found in Japan which is the ancient "Line Rule," modalities of layout which are very different systems and approaches. Third the nomenclature seems to be incorrect (???) as I have never heard of..."Kashigi Oozier Hobo Sash"...though this could just be a poor translation. If you did mean...傾ぎ大入れ - “Kashigi dai ire”...thought not “very strong in this application as would be a through tenon and wedges as found in Dutch Barns, or in the Japanese vernacular a 鼻栓 - “Bisen” type joint like… 鼻栓ホゾ - “Bisen hozo” in one of the larger forms… Your “Wedged Dovetail” (片下げあり - Kata sage ari) looks well executed, however they are seldom pegged as there is little reason to do so. Pinning the wedge in place would be more advantageous if worried about displacement over time as the “relish” on the tenon makes the pegs pointless. In a lateral load, the relish would just rip out. The tenon on the brace is entirely incorrect for taking the greatest advantage of the wood's natural strength. It is also an "oblique brace" in the vertical orientation which is seldom to never used in Asian architecture where (if used) is typically in the foundation and in a horizontal orientation from sill beam to sill beam (火打梁 - “Hiuchibari”)...or...in roofs from rafter plate to rafter plate. If vertical "brace beams" are employed they are huge and act as "wind bracing" within lashed rafter systems as found in traditional Minka… If this feedback was of value, please feel free to ask more questions...Thanks for sharing your work on this project...
Mr Whitecloud, you strike again. You are literally, present in a ton of places on the internet. You come across as an expert or seriously informed in so many different disciplines that its hard to believe anymore. It feels as if you spend your life on the internet, due to the never ending commentary on all things you offer. Permies. UA-cam. Other forums. From a non expert, but observer of everything. Be well personally.
@@LitoGeorge Hello George…The web’s algorithms make suggestions to watch and I share what I’ve been lucking to learn. As for “expert” that is for others to consider; I dwell on it little. I have been blessed to be raised in and live a more traditional life; getting to meet others of like kind over the decades along the way and share it where it seems fit or asked to (ie. forums, etc.) What one chooses to believe (or not) has no real bearing on the information shared. My time “online” is limited to a cup of tea in the morning and late at night as I sleep little…and when lucky enough to be near this computer…LOL!
@@littleforest I will gladly remove the comment @littleforest if it was not of value to you, or you find such comment disrupting to the harmony of your channel...
@@JayCWhiteCloud Hi - you should apply to the Guiness Book of World Records for having the worlds largest ever cup of tea. Keep on experting.... cheers
Good morning Mr Whitecloud :-) I consider the freedom of speech as something valuable. As long as they are somehow polite, i do not erase comments. So, you are free to do with your comment what feels right for you. And it is up to the reader to see what opinion or point of view he/she takes as an inspiration.
You, Sir, are so Blessed with a Determination and Skill that is Outrageously Admirable.
Just found your channel :-) What a beautiful and informative movie! Thanx for al the little tricks you shared. I specially like the curved braces and to put them in both different ways. Not every thing has to be made like in a schoolbook - It will add some kind of freedom spirit to your cabbine.
As i am working similar project, there is one question turning around in my mind:
Is it possible to use fresh wood or is it necessary to let it dry first?
What did you use for your timber frame?
There might be different approaches to this topic.
I would say, that it is an advantage to use dry wood. But to get dry wood ( naturally dried) in these dimension is maybe rather unrealistic. I would not use machine dried wood. So, in most cases it ends up with more or less fresh wood.
The pine (used on the braces and as arched braces in the previous video) is harvested one year ago. So it is 'half' dried, at least well settled.
The spruce (post & beams) are harvested just few weeks ago. But i had the chance to find standing dead wood. It had many years to settle and dry in a very gentle way. In my eyes, this is the best wood to use for timber framing - if available. Storm or bug damaged wood might be a similar source.
I like your method of marking a pencil line, by sneaking the square up onto it. Never seen that before, but I sure will be using it forward! Thank you. And very nice, precision cutting. I wish for you, a nice wooden handle on your crosscut saw :) Also, very sharp chisels - beautiful result. Congrats Sir!
You are welcome :-) Yes, this wooden handle might be done ... one day... I whish you an enjoyable spring.
Beautiful work
Thank you for eincluding your thumb with the timber work ❤
Das habe ich sehr gerne angeschaut. Vielleicht werde ich die Verbindung zu übernehmen, um eine kleine Abstützung fur einen Druckertisch zu bauen, der bisher auf vier Beinen steht.
Thank you for this interesting video on an interesting topic!
It seems to me, that you are using a rather small cordless drill - for this rather big job.
Would you share some of your ideas and expirience about it?
Yes, it is a small machine. I was looking for something 'made in Europe', or at least not from China. There is Mafell, Festool and Fein. (did i forget something?)
This Fein has 12 V only, but four gears, the first one is rather slow but very strong. I can drill wholes till 50 mm in wood. Screws, 25cm by 6mm no problem. For the wholes it is anyways better to turn slow, to not overheat the drill, and for the screws, i do not care if it takes 3 seconds more or less. I rarely put more than 10 this sized screws in a row.
The advantage is, that this machine is much lighter than all these oversized 18V monsters.
Hope there was something helpful for you ;-)
Oh Yes, And also an Exceptionally Sharp Selection of Chisels.
Like a glove! ✊🍷🎩🎩🎩🙏
Thank you for sharing the build with us, can’t wait to cut some of these myself! And awesome plaid shirt, love that pattern, where can I buy one??
Got it from my grandpa - maybe not on sale anymore ;-)
@@littleforest ah nice! :) and I think you are right, only finding a few things from that brand for sale secondhand online. Have searched and searched for fabric in that pattern, no luck on an exact match yet. But maybe I’ll find something close and make one!
Kudos!
Please find a better solution for camera holding. I almost got seasick from watching 😂 ..other than that - beautiful work. A true craftsman in action 👌
Oh yes, i have had it in mind since a while... I am than wondering if i focus on finding a new stand or putting the new floor first (which is now the source of the shaking). Let's see, where the flow is leading ;-)
Nice work but why didn't you hous the knee brace? Housing make a far stronger joint.
What exactly do you mean with 'housed'?
Что лучше? Мафель или Фейн?
Anteeksi, en ymmärttänyt...
@@littleforest Mafell or Fein.Who is the best? So much power, so much stronger?
My Fein driller, i really like it - small, light but very strong. Even with the small 12 V akku, i go nearly the whole day. The four gears have been a good invention. Can really recommend it, specially for someone who is looking for something made in Europe (Machine from Germany, Akku from Poland, charger from Vietnam)
I have never had a Maffel driller in my hands yet - so, i can't compare.
@@littleforest Tussen takk.🙏
Медитирую...
I should watch the master Paul Sellers that can speak if I want to make a mortise and tenon?
Sorry for the long comment, but perhaps you will find this information both corrective and useful in your future work...You kind of lost me on this one with "strong joint" unless that was a question (?) which in this case is, "Sorry, no, not really, for several reasons."
First, I think this is out of context with Steve's work. Second, your relationship within the video's demonstration of a European version of a joint as compared to Japanese (or Asian timber frame joinery) is out of context as this more reinvented (or reinterpreted) European styles of joinery to some degree, and applying them to what is Asian modalities, while using a "mill rule" or "edge rule" layout system rather than what is found in Japan which is the ancient "Line Rule," modalities of layout which are very different systems and approaches. Third the nomenclature seems to be incorrect (???) as I have never heard of..."Kashigi Oozier Hobo Sash"...though this could just be a poor translation. If you did mean...傾ぎ大入れ - “Kashigi dai ire”...thought not “very strong in this application as would be a through tenon and wedges as found in Dutch Barns, or in the Japanese vernacular a 鼻栓 - “Bisen” type joint like… 鼻栓ホゾ - “Bisen hozo” in one of the larger forms…
Your “Wedged Dovetail” (片下げあり - Kata sage ari) looks well executed, however they are seldom pegged as there is little reason to do so. Pinning the wedge in place would be more advantageous if worried about displacement over time as the “relish” on the tenon makes the pegs pointless. In a lateral load, the relish would just rip out.
The tenon on the brace is entirely incorrect for taking the greatest advantage of the wood's natural strength. It is also an "oblique brace" in the vertical orientation which is seldom to never used in Asian architecture where (if used) is typically in the foundation and in a horizontal orientation from sill beam to sill beam (火打梁 - “Hiuchibari”)...or...in roofs from rafter plate to rafter plate. If vertical "brace beams" are employed they are huge and act as "wind bracing" within lashed rafter systems as found in traditional Minka…
If this feedback was of value, please feel free to ask more questions...Thanks for sharing your work on this project...
Mr Whitecloud, you strike again. You are literally, present in a ton of places on the internet. You come across as an expert or seriously informed in so many different disciplines that its hard to believe anymore. It feels as if you spend your life on the internet, due to the never ending commentary on all things you offer. Permies. UA-cam. Other forums. From a non expert, but observer of everything. Be well personally.
@@LitoGeorge Hello George…The web’s algorithms make suggestions to watch and I share what I’ve been lucking to learn. As for “expert” that is for others to consider; I dwell on it little. I have been blessed to be raised in and live a more traditional life; getting to meet others of like kind over the decades along the way and share it where it seems fit or asked to (ie. forums, etc.) What one chooses to believe (or not) has no real bearing on the information shared. My time “online” is limited to a cup of tea in the morning and late at night as I sleep little…and when lucky enough to be near this computer…LOL!
@@littleforest I will gladly remove the comment @littleforest if it was not of value to you, or you find such comment disrupting to the harmony of your channel...
@@JayCWhiteCloud Hi - you should apply to the Guiness Book of World Records for having the worlds largest ever cup of tea. Keep on experting.... cheers
Good morning Mr Whitecloud :-)
I consider the freedom of speech as something valuable. As long as they are somehow polite, i do not erase comments.
So, you are free to do with your comment what feels right for you.
And it is up to the reader to see what opinion or point of view he/she takes as an inspiration.
Nice work but low efficiency
There is no efficiency in enjoyment. It is not measurable.