If you have a better scanner. I would run it and definitely check the live data. Where that Turbo is at and what the computer is asking. Just make sure they match up. I believe if I remember right. That 1 is manually adjustable on a rod that goes into the Turbo as well. Just get it close as you can and it should be okay. The last one I did was really close. And I did not have to modify it any
I got a 2010 npr im taking the turbo out but I cant get the dam thing to come out. it hits the egr cooler and the studs at the manifold needs about one more inch to come off... any tricks? im going to try a stud removal tool to remove 2 of them
It's been quite a while since i've worked on that one but if I remember right they weren't exactly easy to get out. And maybe go it's a better grade a bolt definitely used some antiseize being an exhaust part.as far as bolts I would hate to five u the wring info . Bit I could suggest looking up the turbo diagram on your 5.2
ol skools N tools, you don't happen to live in North Carolina do you? I've got a 2013 Isuzu NPR-HD 52L diesel that I could use some help with and would love to pay you for you assistance. Let me know! If you don't live here, we could maybe still do something over the phone to ask a couple of questions from your experience and stuff. Let me know your thoughts boss.
![WHY ARE SO MANY BUSINESSES SWITCHING TO THESE? [ISUZU CAB OVER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/10NJcWBv1qk/mqdefault.jpg)
Do you have a clear picture of the torque specs?
@davidlowe7535 negative but all specs are online per make and model
Do you have to calibrate the VGT after installation like the cummins?
If you have a better scanner. I would run it and definitely check the live data.
Where that Turbo is at and what the computer is asking. Just make sure they match up. I believe if I remember right. That 1 is manually adjustable on a rod that goes into the Turbo as well. Just get it close as you can and it should be okay. The last one I did was really close. And I did not have to modify it any
I got a 2010 npr im taking the turbo out but I cant get the dam thing to come out. it hits the egr cooler and the studs at the manifold needs about one more inch to come off... any tricks? im going to try a stud removal tool to remove 2 of them
Not sure if the 2010 is the same as the 2011 and up It was a tight fit on the 11 and up the 10 is a 5.2 correct?
How did you get it to clear the 3 studs holding the turbo to the down pipe. I have everything disconnected but can’t pull out because of the studs.
It has been a while but if I do remember correctly I will remember correctly I was able to pull the studs out and put them back in after
I believe he states he had to cut them
Where and what’s the name. Of the bolts I need new ones my self . Thanks In advance
It's been quite a while since i've worked on that one but if I remember right they weren't exactly easy to get out. And maybe go it's a better grade a bolt definitely used some antiseize being an exhaust part.as far as bolts I would hate to five u the wring info . Bit I could suggest looking up the turbo diagram on your 5.2
ol skools N tools, you don't happen to live in North Carolina do you? I've got a 2013 Isuzu NPR-HD 52L diesel that I could use some help with and would love to pay you for you assistance. Let me know! If you don't live here, we could maybe still do something over the phone to ask a couple of questions from your experience and stuff. Let me know your thoughts boss.
By tacoma Washington buddy sorry
If replacing the turbo actuator servo do you need to perform a relearn?
Don't hold me to it what I believe is that rod it runs on this adjustment adjustment needs to be identical adjusted and you should be good
How many hrs of labor?
Talk about 3 hours if I remember right