.904 Isky Red Zone lifters with bushings is the best thing I ever did. Don't know how many hours and passes are on my current setup, but it's over 5000 miles and countless passes.
Got away from comp and got crower and Howard cam! Happed to mine one weekend and my buddy the next week end ! Haven't had any more issues! I see comp came out with new design lifters!
Thanks for posting. I had a knock lost a skirt recently dart shp block 437 sbc custom pistons not sure why or how but one skirt went bad so in the process of tear down i found a roller lifter pin just started backing out. I got lucky prolly gonna look into morel or maybe crower. Would love update and see if it was better cam. Im also contemplating cam swap it is 240/244@50 .608 614 lift 112lsa+4 runs good just wonder how much more it has left in it
From everything Ive read and learned, if you're over 700#, probably should be running a bushed lifter and not the needle bearing. I'm currently putting together a 501" circle track boat engine that's going to run 15-20 minutes at a time at WOT. Scattering a needle bearing lifter was one of our worries.
I run a 665" BBC with spring pressures of just over 400lbs on the seat and 1200 open. The only time I've had a lifter failure is when I broke a con rod...piston hit valves hard enough to push tip of pushrod almost an inch down the tube. That is the only lifter I've ever had a bearing issue with...It didn't break, just brinelled the lifter so you can feel roughness when you roll it...
@@markgoulette5056 My issue was the time. Our engines run 15-20 minutes, not 3-5. A single heat of our racing is like 10 runs at the drag strip. A weekend of racing for us could equal half a season for drag racer.
Not really if you make big power. There's a lot to be gained by having a rotating assembly that takes little power to move. Try running a dyno at 700-900 rpm per sec and see how much you gain in the low gears. It's a lot. You're not dragging a dump truck.
Crank flex causes wear on the bearing edges. More stroke, more RPM...balancing at the ends = flex. He upgraded to a better center weighted crank, that should help that bearing issue. 4/7 swap helps. LS firing order helps a hair more. .003 to .0035 is a good choice main clearance for what he is doing, but depends on other things too - oil pump, oil weight... But, he's making some very smart upgrades and I'm taking notes for my next build. Great video!
@@zz7qvl True. But it might also be worth noting that stepping up viscosity can play a big role in reducing flex. The strength of the film that crank rides on, is what actually supports the crank at the end of the day. But an eight weight setup is always the best thing to do. I never understand why some don't run it on larger engines. It's a must in my book. As for the 4/7 swap, or LS order, there's no real definitive proof of anything. I don't mind it, but I don't think it's really worth jumping through hoops for.
I would never just put lighter springs on WITHOUT putting the motor on a Spintron! What about an Isky Redzone style bushing lifter? We use bushing trunnions in stock LS rockers for the same needle bearing scattering! They seem to hold up with moderate spring pressure
smart money on the thicker pins! LAST place to try to save weight is on the pushrods and wristpins--I am sure you already know this! Even when Prostock was up near 12,000, they were using THICK pushrods and THICK, heavy-walled wrist pins!
I can clearly see you don't do a whole bunch of motor work if you did you would have known they have a tool that makes jet fast installation of spiro locks a snap and I'm wondering why you didn't make the switch to keyed Solid lifters they are so much more hardy and don't require the use of the T bar they also come in a wide variety of offsets to accommodate even chevy big blocks with larger diameter push rods ... So make the switch you will not regret it ....I'm guessing your a Dragster driver ?
.904 Isky Red Zone lifters with bushings is the best thing I ever did. Don't know how many hours and passes are on my current setup, but it's over 5000 miles and countless passes.
It pays to do your homework.
Got away from comp and got crower and Howard cam! Happed to mine one weekend and my buddy the next week end ! Haven't had any more issues! I see comp came out with new design lifters!
The Uncle Tony Garage has had numerous Comp Cams horror stories.
Crower severe duty no problem.
What about the GMC 637 ci bbc that came with 5.125 bore
Thanks for posting. I had a knock lost a skirt recently dart shp block 437 sbc custom pistons not sure why or how but one skirt went bad so in the process of tear down i found a roller lifter pin just started backing out. I got lucky prolly gonna look into morel or maybe crower. Would love update and see if it was better cam. Im also contemplating cam swap it is 240/244@50 .608 614 lift 112lsa+4 runs good just wonder how much more it has left in it
Johnson i hear are a bit better than crower & definitely better than morel
@@jarvislarson6864 thanks I am using johnson now haven't had a issue in over a year.
From everything Ive read and learned, if you're over 700#, probably should be running a bushed lifter and not the needle bearing. I'm currently putting together a 501" circle track boat engine that's going to run 15-20 minutes at a time at WOT. Scattering a needle bearing lifter was one of our worries.
I agree 💯.....
I run a 665" BBC with spring pressures of just over 400lbs on the seat and 1200 open. The only time I've had a lifter failure is when I broke a con rod...piston hit valves hard enough to push tip of pushrod almost an inch down the tube. That is the only lifter I've ever had a bearing issue with...It didn't break, just brinelled the lifter so you can feel roughness when you roll it...
@@markgoulette5056 My issue was the time. Our engines run 15-20 minutes, not 3-5. A single heat of our racing is like 10 runs at the drag strip. A weekend of racing for us could equal half a season for drag racer.
At what position do you clock number 5 cam bearing
That's a tough thing to happen but speaking of cams how did you get the mangled one out?
Wow those intake runners are HOGGED out! That things got to flow like the river nham jing
Those look like Comp lifters, this is the second video I’ve seen where the linkstraps break.
Doesn't a heavier crank have more rotating inertia to help the 60-foot time
short strokes in theory. Hard to say yes or no definitively.
Not really if you make big power. There's a lot to be gained by having a rotating assembly that takes little power to move. Try running a dyno at 700-900 rpm per sec and see how much you gain in the low gears. It's a lot. You're not dragging a dump truck.
@@AB-80X agree. Light as possible without compromising strength of parts applies to everything if acceleration is the goal.
Are they .904 dia lifter
Anything less would be really odd.
Why are the mains wearing on the edges?
More clearance is not the answer to the situation.
Crank flex causes wear on the bearing edges. More stroke, more RPM...balancing at the ends = flex. He upgraded to a better center weighted crank, that should help that bearing issue. 4/7 swap helps. LS firing order helps a hair more. .003 to .0035 is a good choice main clearance for what he is doing, but depends on other things too - oil pump, oil weight... But, he's making some very smart upgrades and I'm taking notes for my next build. Great video!
@@zz7qvl True. But it might also be worth noting that stepping up viscosity can play a big role in reducing flex. The strength of the film that crank rides on, is what actually supports the crank at the end of the day. But an eight weight setup is always the best thing to do. I never understand why some don't run it on larger engines. It's a must in my book.
As for the 4/7 swap, or LS order, there's no real definitive proof of anything. I don't mind it, but I don't think it's really worth jumping through hoops for.
Shit! Wish I would have seen all these bad comp vids before I spent 1200
Wow thanks for the information very appreciated
Too much valve spring pressure--this is was causes these failures. Go with light
er valves and retainers and less spring pressure!
I would never just put lighter springs on WITHOUT putting the motor on a Spintron! What about an Isky Redzone style bushing lifter? We use bushing trunnions in stock LS rockers for the same needle bearing scattering! They seem to hold up with moderate spring pressure
smart money on the thicker pins! LAST place to try to save weight is on the pushrods and wristpins--I am sure you already know this! Even when Prostock was up near 12,000, they were using THICK pushrods and THICK, heavy-walled wrist pins!
Solid lifters needs bushing. With valve lifter clearance you pound on the needle bearing and they start to break the needle or flat em them down. JMO.
I'm only running 730 pounds open spring pressure ,I hope my lifters hold up lol
comp lifters suck . had great luck with Iskys and Morels
Crane for hydraulics, Isky bushed Red Zones for solids.
Have had less than great experiences with Morel in the last few years.
Isky ezx
how did you go with new crowers
Racing until it doesn't run anymore..
Johnson lifters thats all i hear....idk but i know they are good quality and very expensive
KILLER valve covers
Yea this new oil pressurized lifters are brilliant too
I can clearly see you don't do a whole bunch of motor work if you did you would have known they have a tool that makes jet fast installation of spiro locks a snap and I'm wondering why you didn't make the switch to keyed Solid lifters they are so much more hardy and don't require the use of the T bar they also come in a wide variety of offsets to accommodate even chevy big blocks with larger diameter push rods ... So make the switch you will not regret it ....I'm guessing your a Dragster driver ?