I do a lot of plating of TR parts. I started where you are now. If I may: it is time consuming and can get expensive. Prep is key. Meaning, work the pieces to remove imperfections will produce better results. Don’t touch with bare hands. Pick up by wire and use gloves. I use 20 ga copper wire. Ur results: last piece that was lite grey is what ur aiming for. Dark grey means ur burning the plate. Ends will produce those nodules you see (burnt plate, amps too high). Plate will flake off. Start low amps and adjust up until no foaming on wire at surface. Don’t start high and go down. Chase threads BEFORE plating. Nothing worse than plating and having to run dies and taps. Muratic acid is used to remove old zinc. Done when bubbles stop. Plate a 1” square and find the amps needed for a lite grey coating. That can be ur base line for any size part going forward. It is a fun hobby. Not for everyone. Also, read about hydrogen embrittlement. Well done!
Looking good. From what I understand, electroplating is line-of-sight, the zinc goes in a straight line from the plate to piece being plated. I think you can add additional plates around the bath. Also, you can use reverse electrolysis to remove rust. Use a piece of iron instead of zinc, reverse the polarity. There's good videos on how to.
To calculate the surface area on those stamped and bent parts, measure the volume by dropping it in a measuring vessel with water in it. Take the delta volume divided by the stamping thickness.
I think I replaced the throttle shaft seals (rubber with a metal cap?), diaphragms and float valve. That’s all I really knew how to do back then. The carb that looks real clean is from a Spitfire I think. Just used it as a cleaning experiment. Just saw the part where there’s no diaphragm. Check in the boxes. edit: Not sure there’s a rebuild kit.. Hope I haven’t made too much trouble with them.
I checked my list from when I had the parts laid all over the shop and I didn’t see anything about the carbs so I ordered new kits. You did more great cleaning them. They just got dusty and rusty again over the years. Thank you!
@@RustyBeauties I need to learn to hold my comments until the end of the video. The three things I said I replaced were the three things that were missing! What a goober! The plating looks real nice.
I use a similar process but for small parts like nuts etc. i bend the wire in the shape of a sine wave to keep them separate from each other. To polish the parts i hold them in a multi grip and use a brass brush in a drill press.
Interesting! I've never done zinc plating, but did a lot of nickel plating way back when. I think nickel is easier than zinc, but they both can be tricky. Thanks for letting us take a look, and have a relaxing Sunday.
Wow. One down, one to go. Based on comparison of whole carb against the cleaned/plated parts of the other is amazing. Looks like the process is worth doing. I tried nickel plating with some success, but I really needed an adjustable power source to do it properly. I think your process is working. Great video.
Look to have some decent plate on the parts Elin nice job.👍 Done quite a bit of DIY bright zinc plating of various TR and other bits including big parts such as the window regulators/channel guides but as you found you need a bigger tank! You can then use a final passivate bath to colour the parts gold, black or blue etc. Let the parts air dry for 24 hours. Prep is everything and worth the time de-rusting using critic acid or similar and then washing the parts well. I then use a dilution of Nitric acid to pickle the parts, wash in distilled water. Don't touch with your fingers as it contaminates them with grease and affect the finish. Start with a low Amp (I use the same power supply as you) the black bits are due to "over cooking" and can break off contaminating the electrolyte which then stick to other parts so it's worth filtering them out of the electrolyte using a filter paper you use for paint. I use 4 anodes in my tank with a fish tank aerator to circulate the electrolyte to give a more even coating plus a fish tank heater set to 25c which helps the process. I love seeing batches of old rusty bits returned to new its like magic! Just keep at it you have the space to set up a little production in a corner of the workshop. Just nail the ultra sonic cleaner to the bench😁Andy Joking Chef I love your channel as well👍
Good effort... DIY plating isn't easy. So many variables. Plus once the metal parts have been pitted by rust... They will never be perfect. Still improvement on what you started with 👍
The zinc plating looks good. I think you just need to see if any of the parts “flash rust” I did some Nickel plating last week and it went well. The crusties that you had on the parts is the impurities that gets attracted as part of the electrolysis. Thanks Elin. Keep up the great work! 🎅🎅
Hi Elin, well done for giving it a go, I'm sure it will be a big improvement. Some great comments on here well worth reading. Have a great weekend and good luck from Spain!!
Another educational, interesting episode. The parts should not be touching the container, also, try using thinner support wire because the area of the part in contact with the support wire will not get plated.
That as an education on plating. I looked into it on several occasions but never had the time, space or surplus cash to get it going. What I did eventually do to help clean awkward shaped parts was acquire a second-hand shot blast cabinet and 100's of kilos of media that went with it at an auction for a silly cheap price .. I got caught out a bit as after a few hours of successful use my compressor motor burnt out.. 😅🌡🔥.. I decided to upgrade to a 14 cfm 10 Bar 4HP compressor that changed my life in a very good way with all the air driven tools. Great video Elin and looking forward to see those CD150S Stromberg's put back together.
Hi Elin, I don't know if it is worth the trouble, but tumbling the small parts with sand or silica or something grainy could clean out hard to reach places to get everything shiny. I suppose you will have to build your own tumbler. Maybe you can leave out the chemicals and just tumble the parts. There are videos on youtube where this is done if I remember correctly.
Surely the fasteners - nuts bolts washers - have a different coating to the plates springs etc. so they won’t necessarily take the zinc coating the same ? Not really worth fussing about them so much anyway… but it will definitely prevent repeat tarnishing.
You can calculate surface area by weighing a regular shaped piece. Weight of irregular shaped pieces (of same thickness) will be proportionate to surface area when using the known amount.
Seems like an interesting process to do once (or with the two carbs twice). But I bet Dr. Carburetor has multiple carbs in the works at any one time so he doesn't hold up any given rebuild while waiting for a batch of parts to finish plating. He could spend the time doing a big batch of one brand/size carb and then just draw on that batch when he needs them. Another interesting video, Elin!
Take a look at the needle seat in the carb body. These seats should be round, of course. The piston needles are biased and wear those seats oblong. If the seat is worn to much it will make the carbs hard to tune. The seats are replaceable. They are pressed in. If it comes to that make a note of how far the seat is recessed from the bridge in the throat of the body. .092 rings a bell for me but your mileage may vary as they say. Seats can be obtained from Burlen or Joe Curto here in the states. The movie car had a single Zenith. When I learned that trick I was able to pass California smog every single time.
Great job I don’t think I’m gonna go that far with the having that done I’m I’m going to spoil myself and have somebody else clean my carbs and make them all pretty. I got too many other things to do.. too many irons in the fire, so to speak😳
wonderful video again Elin, A question though those spindle seals I was going to order a set from one of our Triumph specialists they are really expensive but he messaged that they are aftermarket and were not originally fitted. I do not know if this is true or is it best to fit them?
I am nit a carb expert but I believe all strombergs have seals originally and the SUs have bushings. You have to see if your carbs have them and if you are rebuilding them it is a good idea to replace them
@@philipavery8465 I've got a 1970 GT6 and the spindles have NO bushings or seals visible from the outside - they seem to just go through holes in the body. But I think they're worn & leaking air, so I'm thinking about getting them machined to take the bushes+seals in the rebuild kit. (not expert advice, just an observation)
The plating demo is interesting. I've never done any of that. Is there a kit to convert the Strombergs to manual choke? I seem to recall their automatic choke is troublesome. One possible solution, years ago I saw a GT6 set up with six Keihin motorcycle carbs. It was very inpressive to look at, with six velocity stacks... AND ran like a bat out of hell! I think a company named Performance Research was adapting those carbs for Spits and GT6s.
you must put the pieces the more paralel to zinc plate as possible. the current is lazy, it take le shortest way, all the zinc is gone on the link , and barely on the other pieces.
I do a lot of plating of TR parts. I started where you are now. If I may: it is time consuming and can get expensive. Prep is key. Meaning, work the pieces to remove imperfections will produce better results. Don’t touch with bare hands. Pick up by wire and use gloves. I use 20 ga copper wire. Ur results: last piece that was lite grey is what ur aiming for. Dark grey means ur burning the plate. Ends will produce those nodules you see (burnt plate, amps too high). Plate will flake off. Start low amps and adjust up until no foaming on wire at surface. Don’t start high and go down. Chase threads BEFORE plating. Nothing worse than plating and having to run dies and taps. Muratic acid is used to remove old zinc. Done when bubbles stop. Plate a 1” square and find the amps needed for a lite grey coating. That can be ur base line for any size part going forward. It is a fun hobby. Not for everyone. Also, read about hydrogen embrittlement. Well done!
Looking good. From what I understand, electroplating is line-of-sight, the zinc goes in a straight line from the plate to piece being plated. I think you can add additional plates around the bath.
Also, you can use reverse electrolysis to remove rust. Use a piece of iron instead of zinc, reverse the polarity. There's good videos on how to.
To calculate the surface area on those stamped and bent parts, measure the volume by dropping it in a measuring vessel with water in it. Take the delta volume divided by the stamping thickness.
Looks good! Ok Elin, keep posting the progress, don't have us waiting for weeks to see the next segment!
I think I replaced the throttle shaft seals (rubber with a metal cap?), diaphragms and float valve. That’s all I really knew how to do back then. The carb that looks real clean is from a Spitfire I think. Just used it as a cleaning experiment.
Just saw the part where there’s no diaphragm. Check in the boxes.
edit: Not sure there’s a rebuild kit.. Hope I haven’t made too much trouble with them.
I checked my list from when I had the parts laid all over the shop and I didn’t see anything about the carbs so I ordered new kits. You did more great cleaning them. They just got dusty and rusty again over the years. Thank you!
@@RustyBeauties I need to learn to hold my comments until the end of the video. The three things I said I replaced were the three things that were missing! What a goober!
The plating looks real nice.
@@kge420 haha, I don’t remember what I ate yesterday. I don’t expect you to remember what you’ve done 35 years ago!
Fantastic video. Good work effort Dr. Yakov and excellent science project. Keep the videos coming as they are very informative for us mere mortals.
I use a similar process but for small parts like nuts etc. i bend the wire in the shape of a sine wave to keep them separate from each other. To polish the parts i hold them in a multi grip and use a brass brush in a drill press.
This was so fun to watch!
Interesting! I've never done zinc plating, but did a lot of nickel plating way back when. I think nickel is easier than zinc, but they both can be tricky. Thanks for letting us take a look, and have a relaxing Sunday.
Thank you Elin
Wow. One down, one to go. Based on comparison of whole carb against the cleaned/plated parts of the other is amazing. Looks like the process is worth doing. I tried nickel plating with some success, but I really needed an adjustable power source to do it properly. I think your process is working. Great video.
Look to have some decent plate on the parts Elin nice job.👍
Done quite a bit of DIY bright zinc plating of various TR and other bits including big parts such as the window regulators/channel guides but as you found you need a bigger tank! You can then use a final passivate bath to colour the parts gold, black or blue etc. Let the parts air dry for 24 hours.
Prep is everything and worth the time de-rusting using critic acid or similar and then washing the parts well. I then use a dilution of Nitric acid to pickle the parts, wash in distilled water. Don't touch with your fingers as it contaminates them with grease and affect the finish. Start with a low Amp (I use the same power supply as you) the black bits are due to "over cooking" and can break off contaminating the electrolyte which then stick to other parts so it's worth filtering them out of the electrolyte using a filter paper you use for paint. I use 4 anodes in my tank with a fish tank aerator to circulate the electrolyte to give a more even coating plus a fish tank heater set to 25c which helps the process.
I love seeing batches of old rusty bits returned to new its like magic! Just keep at it you have the space to set up a little production in a corner of the workshop. Just nail the ultra sonic cleaner to the bench😁Andy
Joking Chef I love your channel as well👍
Good effort... DIY plating isn't easy. So many variables. Plus once the metal parts have been pitted by rust... They will never be perfect. Still improvement on what you started with 👍
The zinc plating looks good. I think you just need to see if any of the parts “flash rust” I did some Nickel plating last week and it went well. The crusties that you had on the parts is the impurities that gets attracted as part of the electrolysis. Thanks Elin. Keep up the great work! 🎅🎅
Hi Elin, well done for giving it a go, I'm sure it will be a big improvement. Some great comments on here well worth reading.
Have a great weekend and good luck from Spain!!
The Home Hardware near me carries both washing soda and borax. Both are good for electrolytic solutions.
I’m glad my ultrasonic cleaner worked well for you 😉 if I had to zinc plate all my TR parts, I’d still be working on my 73 TR6 😉
It is quite a process, but it is addictive…. Once you start you want to do them all :)
Zinc is good but nickel plating is better by being more durable. You can make the bath.
Another educational, interesting episode. The parts should not be touching the container, also, try using thinner support wire because the area of the part in contact with the support wire will not get plated.
I think we should see engine start and pain. I can't wait for that.
I'll stay Toned
That as an education on plating. I looked into it on several occasions but never had the time, space or surplus cash to get it going. What I did eventually do to help clean awkward shaped parts was acquire a second-hand shot blast cabinet and 100's of kilos of media that went with it at an auction for a silly cheap price .. I got caught out a bit as after a few hours of successful use my compressor motor burnt out.. 😅🌡🔥.. I decided to upgrade to a 14 cfm 10 Bar 4HP compressor that changed my life in a very good way with all the air driven tools. Great video Elin and looking forward to see those CD150S Stromberg's put back together.
Hmm. You may have identified my high idle problem! I’ll let you know after I check that bypass valve!
Hi Elin, I don't know if it is worth the trouble, but tumbling the small parts with sand or silica or something grainy could clean out hard to reach places to get everything shiny. I suppose you will have to build your own tumbler. Maybe you can leave out the chemicals and just tumble the parts. There are videos on youtube where this is done if I remember correctly.
Surely the fasteners - nuts bolts washers - have a different coating to the plates springs etc. so they won’t necessarily take the zinc coating the same ? Not really worth fussing about them so much anyway… but it will definitely prevent repeat tarnishing.
You can calculate surface area by weighing a regular shaped piece. Weight of irregular shaped pieces (of same thickness) will be proportionate to surface area when using the known amount.
Seems like an interesting process to do once (or with the two carbs twice). But I bet Dr. Carburetor has multiple carbs in the works at any one time so he doesn't hold up any given rebuild while waiting for a batch of parts to finish plating. He could spend the time doing a big batch of one brand/size carb and then just draw on that batch when he needs them. Another interesting video, Elin!
Take a look at the needle seat in the carb body. These seats should be round, of course. The piston needles are biased and wear those seats oblong. If the seat is worn to much it will make the carbs hard to tune. The seats are replaceable. They are pressed in. If it comes to that make a note of how far the seat is recessed from the bridge in the throat of the body. .092 rings a bell for me but your mileage may vary as they say. Seats can be obtained from Burlen or Joe Curto here in the states. The movie car had a single Zenith. When I learned that trick I was able to pass California smog every single time.
If I remember correctly, washing soda is sodium carbonate, baking soda is sodium bicarbonate!
Regards,
Sandy 🔧🏴
Correct, but the formula of sodium carbonate is Na2CO3 and sodium bicarbonate is NaHCO3
Great job I don’t think I’m gonna go that far with the having that done I’m I’m going to spoil myself and have somebody else clean my carbs and make them all pretty. I got too many other things to do.. too many irons in the fire, so to speak😳
wonderful video again Elin, A question though those spindle seals I was going to order a set from one of our Triumph specialists they are really expensive but he messaged that they are aftermarket and were not originally fitted. I do not know if this is true or is it best to fit them?
I am nit a carb expert but I believe all strombergs have seals originally and the SUs have bushings. You have to see if your carbs have them and if you are rebuilding them it is a good idea to replace them
@@RustyBeauties Thanks Elin I have often been misled its great being able to get expert advice much appreciated and I will be replacing them.
@@philipavery8465 I've got a 1970 GT6 and the spindles have NO bushings or seals visible from the outside - they seem to just go through holes in the body. But I think they're worn & leaking air, so I'm thinking about getting them machined to take the bushes+seals in the rebuild kit. (not expert advice, just an observation)
The plating demo is interesting. I've never done any of that.
Is there a kit to convert the Strombergs to manual choke? I seem to recall their automatic choke is troublesome.
One possible solution, years ago I saw a GT6 set up with six Keihin motorcycle carbs. It was very inpressive to look at, with six velocity stacks... AND ran like a bat out of hell! I think a company named Performance Research was adapting those carbs for Spits and GT6s.
The strombergs used in triumphs are manual choke. I believe the ones used for MG were automatic
you must put the pieces the more paralel to zinc plate as possible. the current is lazy, it take le shortest way, all the zinc is gone on the link , and barely on the other pieces.
and for long pieces, rely them by the both side
Where did you get the Zinc plates from please?
Amazon. They are literally called zinc anode plates I believe
#crackalacking
Watched to the end.
Pros and cons zinc plate vs anodize?
Elin you should be able to control current without changing voltage on you power supply…
Mr Ohm passed a law saying that if you reduce your current you have to reduce your voltage as well :) I am just obeying the law 😂
1st again!!!