1973 Triumph TR6 - Part 2 - Door Trim and Trailing arm stripped threads
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- On the list for this car we have this door trim that makes everybody cringe. In the past I attempted installing the trim with the supplied clips and I actually ended up sticking it in place with double sided tape instead :) So let's see how the second attempt will go. The trailing arm threaded holes that are notorious for stripping were not an exception here too. We know how to fix these already though, so let's get crack-a-lackin'
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Hi Elin, I'm mistified with that clutch problem. It just doesn't seem to look right at all. I hope it lasts for a good while and when its needed its brought back to you for a proper fix.
I guess the number of bolts and the low torque probably means that the brake plate was probably good enough with just four, but the owner really should have been told and at least be aware of a problem that needs fixing very soon .... same with those tie rods.
Nice bit of tooling for the door trims and what a great tip that was using the insulation from a cable to present the pin ..... I can remember trying to do that with pliers😅😅😅
Im really very glad he brought it to you and I can see from his comments that he is also.
Great video well done and good luck from Spain!!
Thank you, thank you, thank you! I ordered the side-window weather strips for my TR6 many months ago, but had no idea how to install them. The warnings I read about how difficult it was made me afraid to even try. After watching your video, the job was almost easy.
Elin, your reputation will grow and grow because you are never satisfied unless the job is done absolutely right and customers will always gravitate towards repairers they know are on their side who want to create long term trusted relationships. I am fortunate to have someone like you who owns the family business and I trust the garage implicitly, it’s priceless.
That trick with the plastic sleeving will really help me to do a totally different tricky job at work. Thanks 😁👍🏻
It seems you get the joy of fixing up someone else's terrible repairs. Thanks for letting us take a look, Elin! Have a good week.
Hey Elin. I have had a similar issue with the clutch on my TR6, in the clutch engaging at the very bottom of the pedal travel. I have very little hair left as a result of the trials to get it fixed!
Short answer - I used an adjustable pushrod on the master cylinder.
Long answer - I fitted new clutch, new hardened pin , new slave and master, re-bushed the pedal box, braided clutch hose. I considered putting the longer pushrod on the slave but these systems self-adjust so it would only make a difference for a few presses of the pedal. The trick is to push further from the master, and for this the adjustable pushrod at that end. It lifts the clutch pedal ever so slightly, but very little additional length was required.
One caveat - mine is a RHD UK spec PI, and it may have a slightly different master cylinder to the spec on the one you are working upon.
I hope this helps a little, or perhaps others who found a similar issue.
Angelo
Good trick with the wire insulation! Thanks for the tip!
Wow - thanks again Elin. Reinforces my thought that I should have done more research and dropped the car off with you at the start. I'm excited to pick it up!!!
Another Good practical session Elin! To sort that window trim out, try putting another clip on the apex of the door curve - Bob's your Uncle!
It looks like this TR6 has previously been worked on by 'Bodgeit & Scarper" 😅.. Great work again Elin.. It'll be interesting to see if your clutch mod will improve the gear changing ..
when I replaced the window seals on my Spitfire, it was probably the most frustrating job so far. The new clips weren't made the same & they didn't work very well so I used as many of the old ones as possible. I also made a tool & with some selective cursing, managed to install on both doors. They work ok except when I shut the driver's door, the inside one pops up but I just push it back into place.
Thanks for the door weather-seal and handle tips. Very timely, as I will be fitting these to my 4A soon. I would have tried first fitting the clips to the strip, but will now attempt to follow your method.
Split vinyl trim is common on these cars, so what adhesive did you use (which you implied sets after the application of a little heat) ?
Don't worry about repeating topics which you think you have shown before... a reminder is always useful.
Elin, Triumph left the LHD TR6s with the RHD windscreen wiper orientation. Has anyone provided a conversion kit and scuttle blanks for that? 🤔
Does pushing the door handle forward lock the door?
How about a heat gun to bend the trim? And Cheftush often doesn't bother with the window channel tensioner.
There is metal inside
I think the doors came from the factory with a plastic sheet stuck to inside of the door. The plastic sheet sits between the door and the door card. The plastic sheet protects the door card from water damage.
The bolt that holds the fork on the rod can sheer off and then the fork moves around the shaft.
Yes, but that causes a much bigger play on the lever which I didn’t find here. Also the other shop claimed that they installed a new fork pin…
@@RustyBeauties The pin can shear and then gall causing it to work at a much larger angle than originally designed which could result in needing to build up a new attachment point and running out of stroke in the hydraulic cylinder.
Thank you for the tricks Elin, Well I need to remove the door panel the window don't glide smooth but I will use my wife to push on the plastic rings to remove/put the handle. I will triple her salary 0 $ x 3...
Just looking at the clutch slave cylinder... I don't suppose the thick bracket should be fitted on the gearbox side instead of the engine plate side..??!!. Maybe!!!!
No, the plate fits only on the engine side.
@@RustyBeauties I did wonder if there was enough room 😝
OMG, who did this shoddy work? We need to know.
It wasn’t a British car shop. It was just a regular mechanic shop and they improvised….