Love the idea, but I'm a professional garage door repairman, and I would implore that if you do any further customization near your door, or if anyone else decides to build this, please keep at least 1 foot clear by the front of the door, and including the walls on the sides. If your spring ever breaks, we need to be able to access access bearing plates on the top corners of the tracks at the front. Also we need space to be able to get the springs off of the pipe. If that area is too badly blocked, it is likely you could end up paying for more parts and labor, as we may need to cut parts out, or disassemble quite a bit more to get to certain parts. In general, please keep the spring system clear, and give us about 1 foot of clearance all around the door and it's moving parts
@@charlesprice4276 I like this, and am going to do this. When I do need my garage door serviced (hopefully not for some time as its only 4 years old) I would just remove it before the repair person comes. It looks way to useful the for the 99.9% of the time it is not in the way.
Great idea. Look at this way regarding the garage repair door complaints. I've have the same garage door springs for 15 years, and I just had them replaced. You will use this rack EVERY SINGLE DAY. You're coming out way ahead in the plus column!
Hey it's UA-cam. The place I come to all the time to learn or get ideas on how to do something, how not to do something, and a whole lot in between. Sometimes it's a combination of the three. I applaud your efforts and your contributions.
Thanks. I appreciate your positive input. I have gotten some negative feedback from garage door repairmen who say that it is too close the the spring. If you decide to do this you may want to leave at least 12" from the outside wall.
I made floating shelves in my garage also, different style because my roof is flat and I made a house rule "nothing on the floor". If it doesn't fit on the shelves something has to go. I really keeps the garage clean and the rodent out because there is nowhere to hide. Nice video. I like the idea of the space behind for plywood extras.
I’m a contractor and enjoyed this. Great idea & i always leave space under i storage i build too. You don’t have to worry about the bottom getting wet too. Plus there’s always awkward stuff that can be stored under. You took a space and made it so many things can be stored in one place verses just a shelf. I really like it and me personally would add a couple more channels like you did at the top-maybe one on the bottom and one in the middle -just make those shelves thicker so they have a channel in them. This shelf could have containers or clips installed down the side for many other things too. Could even build a flip up compartment in the center that had dividers for screws and things. The list goes on and on on someone could easily just change a couple things to their needs. Good video-gets the creative juices flowing to expand on.
Good build. You might want to consider using washers or a base plate before putting on the bolts. This will prevent the nuts from ripping through the wood and help distribute the weight.
Yeah, it definitely needs some of that... Fender washers or maybe some 1/8" thick, 1" wide steel bar with holes drilled in it for the threaded bar to go through to distribute the load across the board in the attic better...
I definitely agree with keeping stuff off the garage floor as much as possible. Either on wheels, or hanging from the wall or ceiling. In my garage, the foundation blocks are proud of the finished walls, so I often have shelves sitting on the foundation and then lagged into the wall studs.
I like everything about this EXCEPTE at 7:02 you are using 2x12 lumber to hang all of the weight from. You've notched out almost all of the 2x12 leaving maybe a 2 inch section to support all of the weight. I would move them out to eliminate this failure point. I've been looking for something to use this space myself and stumbled across this video. I like the idea.
The solution is to affix a 2x4 (or at least a 1x4) to the left side of the rafter underneath the notched 2x12, forming a ledge for the 2x12 to rest on. Then, the right side tail of that notch would not be needed.
I’m used to having a respectable size shop, so when my wife and I were house shopping for a relocation and the real estate agents were claiming “large garage” “spacious garage with extra space for a workshop” I followed up with, “wait, this isn’t the walk in closet (pantry/coat closet/broom closet, etc.)?!” They were stunned, stammering, trying to salvage their sales pitch! It was classic. Settled for less house, larger lot, with a full size shop (25 deep x 50 wide) with loft over the single car bay with 10 ft tall door over the 40 ft section and lean to off the side. Also has a 10 foot rear add on that runs the 50ft width that serves as my parts and storage warehouse as it came with shelving down the full length of each wall. I’m in the midst of reconfiguring it and may do a lounge up in the loft as the storage really isn’t needed.
Love the concept of a hanging narrow shelf like that. Ive been constructing storage spots with French Cleat systems. Ill design something off a Cleat that will take it off the floor and provide space in the back. Bonus is since I have to brace the bottom away from the wall it will give me a hidden shelf for the sheets of plywood in back to also be off the floor.
Loved the extra space you created behind the cabinet for hard to store panels and the space under it for your floor Jack's was great, even the long jack handle tucks away neatly between the rods. Very nice and well thought out build.
Come on let's be real. That was kind of an unnecessary build. I'm no pro dryer but it looked like he lost shelving space on this build. What did he really accomplish? The shelf he had there was a good fit, it just looked like he needed to reorganize it
Since I am pushing 80 I sold my duplex and decided to rent. I no longer wanted to deal with tenants and the maintenance was getting too difficult for me to do. I gave away most of my larger tools but I still needed substantial storage space. I purchased some 18" shelves from Sam's for around $100.00 each they have wheels and shelf liners. They have them at 12"-18" and 25" wide. Great value and very sturdy for the money.
Very nice design. I particularly like the rods that hang the shelving. I might be able to do something similar in my little blacksmith shop! If I was to suggest one thing to others watching this.... if you don't want the hassle of going through the ceiling, you can make hangers that mount to the ceiling with glue and screws. Drill a hole for the threaded rod in some 2x4, then counterbore the wood to make room for a Tee Nut. When this is mounted to the ceiling, the Tee Nut is captured between wood and roof material so it can't back out or pull loose. The 7" of clearance behind the shelf would even allow for gusseted brackets to be mounted to the wall so the shelves could hang from it.
@@BenJamin-iz6yc Not necessarily. The wall studs would have needed to be where you needed them, plus you would need to build some kind of hangers that spaced the cabinet off of the wall to get that gap for storing sheet goods. Doing that would have put tremendous strain on the wall anchors and likely resulted in something that just ripped out after awhile. Never mind the problem of it swinging around on you.
I love the 2x12's spanning joists. I did same, but also some larger dia washers under those nuts, since all the weight is trying to pull the nuts thru the wood. Just makes me feel better
I never thought of having shelving in this area, but I think it is an excellent idea, as there are enough typical household small items that such use makes good sense. Thanks for showing how extra storage in this area is possible. My goal is to once again park my car in the garage where it belongs, like when I first moved in. lol...
Significant other had to clean due to new garage door install. First time I'd seen the entire garage floor in ages. I should have snapped a picture to remember what it looked like one week later.
Love the innovation of this idea. I did something similar in a basement that sometimes gets water so I made a set of shelves on a dolly that had extended ends to store sheets of plywood. It kept the shelf and plywood off the floor but also let me pull it out and move it around to clean.
I think this is a great idea, but I am a bit concerned about your boards you used in the attic. Since you had to notch them so significantly to fit around the rafters there isn't much meat left to span the gap between the joists. I would check them often for signs of cracking or reinforce them to carry the weight across that span. Aside from that, neat idea, and well executed.
I also see no need for a ten foot all thread. Just bolt it from the top. 8 inch bolt would hang that. I'm not a fan of the cross beam. I would've used steel. Nice idea with clutter hiding storage behind the shelf.
@@hipairbrush1053 I can see the benefit of running the all thread to the bottom. What he is trying to accomplish is to carry the weight from the bottom like a normal floor bearing cabinet would. If he were to suspend it from a bolt as you suggested the cabinet would be trying to pull itself apart from the top plate as currently built. It would need to be constructed a little different for this to work, but I see where you are going with it.
You kept saying Lowe's but anyone can tell your video is showing Home Depot signage , saw station and orange decor accents to wonder what other discrepancies are being overlooked?
Clever design and like the idea of hiding large plywood behind it as well as keeping it off the floor. When you epoxy your floors I recommend 100% solids and spend the time with the prep work. You have a new subscriber. 👍🏼
This is really thoughtful. I didn't get the wood rack and the space be hind the shelf and I did notice the clearance on the floor. It's not a floor to ceiling. It support from the rafters. That is good thinking 😲👍
Just in time for this video! Started to purge my garage and in dire need for good space and organizing. My mother I mean wife is killing me with the “garage mess”, new subscriber here, can’t wait to relax and go thru all the goods! Salute from NC!
You’ll have a blast changing out your springs, drums, tracks, or even sections on the garage door. Most garage door companies will make you move that shelf before they show up to work
@@OvertonWindex -- Uhhhh.... The same sort of imbecile who would probably severely injure themselves working on the torsion springs on the garage door? :)
Functional and looks good. My take is that MDF is the worst product to use in an outdoor environment (is painted so hopefully doesn’t go out right away), all-thread was a bit of overkill for mounting solution but works, and I would have added shelf so plywood storage behind is off the ground
Yeah, that was my (admittedly mild) concern, too. But, he can always tuck in some painted-out mdf midspan pieces easily enough. I'd probably use plywood for the shelves or include midspan supports at the outset. Not dissing on Scott, I just know that 'Murphy' is alive and well (my husband is too, he used to do avionics engineering), and I'd have a sagging problem sooner than later. I definitely like the idea.
Yeah, definitely a concern... He's apparently in Texas (car license plates) and there are areas that are comparatively dry (at least as compared to the Houston area where I'm at). There's no way that I would use MDF for shelving... Like with particle board, it's strength is mainly in compression, not tension... Combine that with the humidity around here and you would have sagging shelves pretty quickly... Having owned a house with cabinets that used particle board for the vertical pieces in the carcasses and seen what damage a little water can do to them over the years, I will not buy *anything* made from it again... Not sure what part of Texas he is in... The subdivision does not look completely flat, so that means that it is most likely not the Houston area... Maybe Austin or Dallas... He has an insulated garage door, so I might be inclined to suspect the Dallas area since it does get slightly cooler there than in Austin...
Great thinking on not going all the way to the floor. When blowing out and cleaning the garage, it’s awful when everything gets caught behind a shelf or object.
And the space on the side against the front wall - easy enough to get back in there and vacuum out/sweep out any spiderwebs in the usually quiet corner. Had it been tighter to the wall at that point, who knows what would be nested back there where nothing can get to it. (no offense to spiders, but there's a whole world outside the garage to find a meal and home in)
Thank you so much! I was trying to figure out a solution for my garage storage issues and I think this video actually covered everything! Ur awesome keep making videos ! 😊
As a garage door installer/Technician I can tell you that servicing or repairing your garage door whenever need is gonna be more expensive for you because of this shelf being in the way
As a former mechanic. Or ask any mechanic. The space to work on or repair the garage door is a luxury. Compared to working on a modern car. As the spaces are so tight a college girl would be jealous.
I've been thinking of doing something similar in my garage, except I'm thinking of putting the shelves on a trolley so they could be moved back and forth to access plywood etc behind them. Also I'm thinking of a second slider in front that would be somewhat like a door, but with a pegboard on it for a yard tools. This would give me storage basically three levels deep, but relatively easily access.
I like the setup...In the future instead of cutting a 2x for in the ceiling - use can just use some B-Line/Uni-strut. Less tedious that having to clearance joists :)
He says bought at lowes shows home Depo ! Hilarious then he says I used a foam brush and the paint was so good it left no brush marks I didn’t think foam could leave brush marks ? Any way thanks for the idea keep it up!
Neat idea. I have the same concerns with the MDF as most others do. And the space to work on the garage door springs. Having storage behind the shelves for plywood or whatever is wasting that much space next to your shelves, as you have to have room to slide those sheets out. Garage wall space being at a premium, it seems that is almost useless if you need more wall space to hang things
I have been struggling to think of how to use the space better for oils fluids ect for cars I’m not going to copy and past but gave me an idea of how to thanks to this video thanks
Very cool idea. Not sure why I'm watching this considering I'm in the process of building a 30x50 shop but I love space management ideas like this. Good job!
Not sure if it’s already been pointed out. Another benefit of hanging them is garage floors have slope. Everything you place on them is out of level. Eliminated this by hanging your shelves. Great solution for your sheet material! Not sure about future shelf sag, but easily solved with a center support made of the same material. 👍👍
@@ScottsGarage17 that’s awesome. I only say this because I built a shelf in the same manor and front sagged a bit, but not the back. I had too much weight on them as well. 8-1 gallon jugs on one shelf😬 Great project, Scott
nice work, Scott. I am currently trying to solve the problem of garage organization myself. This was helpful. One of my issues is sheet materials, and your idea is awesome. Although, one couldn't store anything vertically or bulky next to the shelving units that can't be easily moved to get the sheet materials pulled out.
"Garage organization" -- the process of attempting to store 100 pounds of crap in a 50 pound bag... :) I prefer to keep things off the floor of my garage also... It allows me to use the leaf blower to clean it out periodically and the power washer to clean it further if need be... I don't have sheetrock or MDF in my garage, so a power washer does not damage anything... Everything is either concrete, bare wood, or Hardi Plank...
Concerns: MDF will warp depending on humidity and weight distribution. Your mask is designed for particulates, not vapor, or smell. When painting with oil based materials open the garage door and use a fan to protect from inhalation hazard. Is there a source of ignition in your garage such as a water heater? Latex paint provides a durable surface with easy clean-up and disposal. Just some random thoughts. Enjoyed the content.
@@dalesworld1308 -- It seems like all the painters that I knew back then were alcoholics... Apparently the buzz that they got while painting needed to be replaced by something else when they weren't working... Or maybe it was just that that occupation attracted people who had chemical dependencies... Kind of a "chicken and the egg" sort of thing, I guess... It's not that difficult to create a fresh air hood / mask for when you are working with really nasty stuff... I had to do that around 25 years ago when I was staining / polishing / sealing a concrete floor in a house that I owned at the time...
Cool idea but I would never use MDF for anything but maybe a workbenche top it warps far too easily and wont last long at all in a garage where temperature and humidity changes dramatically
Lordy, what is this world coming to? 19' x 20' is not a 2 car garage. We were looking at houses in Florida with 21' x 22' garages and vetoed them all because of the garage sizes, no way to open the vehicle doors. Don't builders realize that garage space is more important than living space? Finally found one with a 24' x 35' 3 car garage with 3 - 9' x 8' doors. Going to have to remodel the house but we got the garage we wanted/needed.
That's one of my complaints about houses these days... It's like they are designing the garages under the assumption that everyone has a Mini Cooper or Fiat 500... He's apparently in Texas, so there is no excuse for that... A 2-car garage should be big enough to put 2 full size pickups or Suburbans in it with room enough to open all the doors and not hit another vehicle, plus enough room in the front and rear to walk around the car easily without opening the garage door...
Considering the fact that he has a table saw and some other large tools in there, I suspect that his garage is either just as a workshop or at best could have 1 car in there when he needed to work on it... The table saw is likely to prevent putting 2 cars in there at the same time... He's in Texas and it's not uncommon to see people who have multiple cars parked in the driveway and no room in the garage... Often it is because of the size of the vehicles since a full size pickup might be a bit difficult to fit in one of the garage unless it was COMPLETELY empty... I had a pickup for 14 years and it never saw the inside of a garage and the paint was still good... I've seen pickups will less age with the clearcoat coming off though... I figure it was because I didn't wash it that often and the dirt was protecting the paint... :)
It's your garage do anything you like. Too many people bitching for no reason. If you buy a good garage door and maintain it you really don't need anyone to fix it.
It cracks me up that the "tennis ball on a string" is such a prominent "Co-Star" in this video, lol. You couldn't pin it up and out of the way for filming?
As an extra thought, I would have added extra nuts to the threaded rods, on the part of the shelf that is facing the open part of the garage. This would enable you to add some extra stubby shelves, for more storage in the future if needed
for what it's worth you could've used 1/4" threaded rod.. it's way stronger than people realize lol awesome project, nice idea on having them cut all of it for you 👍
Multiply half of the diameter of the rod by itself and then by pi (3.141592...)... This give you the surface area of the cross section of the rod... Multiply that by the tensile strength of the material (probably at least 40,000 psi for common steel)... This will give you the yield strength for it... From there, divide by 4, 5, or whatever safety factor you desire and you have your safe working load... For a threaded rod, use the diameter at the inside of the threads (minor diameter), not the outside of the threads... Using this with an unthreaded 1/4" rod, you would get 1963 lbs... For a threaded rod, you'r looking at a minor diameter of 0.1876", so it would work out to be about 1106 lbs. Just some trivia in case anyone is curious... :)
@@CurmudgeonExtraordinaire you so have to consider he's using four of them, with the load evenly spread.. awesome bit of info !! my comment was from working with conveyor systems that hang from the ceiling of my job .. we have over 11 miles of conveyor with more than half of it being suspended from above..packages run butt to gut for hours sometimes, and the only thing we ship is books, so the boxes are ways heavy
@@aztekwarrior518 -- 1/4" rod would definitely be strong enough, but one thing he has to also consider is lateral stability and the 1/4" might give him a bit too much flex... Personally, I wouldn't go smaller than 3/8" of an inch... But I wouldn't use threaded rod, I would use rebar and weld some shorter lengths of threaded rod or bolts onto the ends... Also, if you use 1/2" 16-gauge square tubing, a 3/8" bolt can be forced (when in doubt, use a bigger hammer) into it and then welded...
@@CurmudgeonExtraordinaire as I said we have live conveyors and catwalks suspended at my job.. you can make them sway just by lightly rocking back and forth .. obviously we're not using 1/4", but the amount of time it would take for a failure would be incredibly long in this case
This is a garage door repair mans bane. Having shelves or other stuff near the tracks and door that are not moveable just makes it more difficult to make adjustments, repair, or replace the door. If it was up to me I would charge more everytime I would have to work on a garage that has unmovable storage. But I will say it looks nice and it has some good concepts.
I like this, and am going to do this. When I do need my garage door serviced (hopefully not for some time as its only 4 years old) I would just remove it before the repair person comes. It looks way to useful the for the 99.9% of the time it is not in the way.
Thanks, Zero Tech for your feedback. I’ve gotten the same from other garage door guys, most of which have ripped me to shreds. Thanks for at least being respectful. What if I moved them further back a foot or so?
@@ScottsGarage17 Yeah no problem like i mentioned its a really neat concept but if you design it to be easily removable that would be the best. Moving it a foot or two back gives a bit more clearance which helps with the front part of the door like the vertical tracks. But you would still have a little issue with the horizontal track which in the video looks like its only a couple inches which is not bad, cause I had to work with much worse before and still got the job done. But the best options would be if its easily removable or just plain movable, like puting it on the floor with casters. Otherwise moving it back a couple feet helps too.
@@randomeverything3023 I agree its very useful and if you moved before they show up that wont cause any issues. Also if you maintenance your garage at least once a year you shouldn't have to worry about it breaking for maybe 5-7 years which is when the springs usually break, unless you only open you door once every week then it will last way longer. Just make sure you don't use WD-40 or put any kind of grease or lubricant on the tracks, that's another way to make you garage door repair company mad 🤣
Just so you know, I’ve been getting a lot of negative criticism from garage door repairmen who have watched my video who say it is too close to the rails and will cost more if you ever need to get your garage door spring repaired.
@@ScottsGarage17 Sir there will always be someone with a negative comment. I have a sloped ceiling in my garage, and I am looking for the best idea possible. I just thank you for your time, experience and a possible way forward.
The top corner will be problematic when maintenance is required on (or replacement of) the Garage door. The area near the torsion system needs to be kept clear so that a technician can access the hardware with room for tools to change Springs, replace cables or address other potential issues. Doors installed on new homes are typically of poor quality and will need attention. Some torsion systems are not "industry standard" and do not extend past the edges of the track, be aware a proper torsion tube is 12" longer than the width of the door. Keep permanent shelves a minimum of 12" from the torsion system hardware.
Nice work. Did you ever consider allowing the shelf to slide left and right? You could accomplish this with some metal track mounted on the ceiling and anchored to the joists in the attic. The tops of the shelves themselves would have small rollers or wheels on them which roll along the metal track. I believe the metal track and wheels are made by Unistrut.
Then you have to adapt for what you have... It's going to depend upon the structure of your garage -- where you have the ceiling joists, wall studs, etc... If you have ceiling joists that go across the garage parallel to the garage door (like he has), then you should be able to install another board to the bottom surface of the sheetrock in your garage ceiling using lag screws into each of the ceiling joists. This board can be used as a hanger to attach the threaded rods instead of going through the ceiling and using another board spread across the joists like he did...
It's worked out real well. If I had to do it all over I would leave a foot between the shelves and the outside wall. I've gotten some negative comments from garage door repairmen who say they need more room to replace garage springs. I probably would attach the threaded rods differently as well. I think they could be countersunk in a 2 x 6 and attached with lag bolts from the bottom side (ceiling) of the rafters.
I love the idea of the hanging shelves. I am thinking about putting the shelving system on a barn door track so the shelves could cover each other up. I know your garage does not have the space for that. The track system would also keep the garage door installer very happy.
Very nice! I wonder if you could also utilize those rods for hanging small items. Two nuts per bar with a rod or sheet between them and you would have a shelf or hanging rod that you could adjust the height as needed. I'm going to keep this shelf idea in mind after OSB sheets come down in price and I can redo my garage.
I have some extra narrow thin lumber called "strapping", normally used to attach drywall too. I can probably make some shallow shelves with that stuff.
how is that MDF holding up a year later? I built a whole set of kitchen type cabinets for my garage (both uppers and lowers) out of MDF. After a couple of years they started sagging and racking due to the humidity here in Florida so I replaced them with 3/4 ply and they have held up very well and it is going on 12 years. MDF does well in compression loads but not so well in any other orientation, it also swells if any moisture is left on them for any length of time even when painted or sealed. Bottom line, you did a nice job but keep an eye on them because they will eventually fail.
I got all my material at lowes, cuts to footage of home depot lumber department😂😂😂
Your shelf makes me want to build a rolling shelf that exposes another shelf behind it. Thanks for the inspiration!!!
Love the idea, but I'm a professional garage door repairman, and I would implore that if you do any further customization near your door, or if anyone else decides to build this, please keep at least 1 foot clear by the front of the door, and including the walls on the sides.
If your spring ever breaks, we need to be able to access access bearing plates on the top corners of the tracks at the front. Also we need space to be able to get the springs off of the pipe.
If that area is too badly blocked, it is likely you could end up paying for more parts and labor, as we may need to cut parts out, or disassemble quite a bit more to get to certain parts.
In general, please keep the spring system clear, and give us about 1 foot of clearance all around the door and it's moving parts
I appreciate your constructive criticism. If I do it over I will allow the clearance.
@@ScottsGarage17 fellow garage repair guy and if I were to walk in this garage and see this I would honestly be pissed at this setup being here.
@@charlesprice4276 I like this, and am going to do this. When I do need my garage door serviced (hopefully not for some time as its only 4 years old) I would just remove it before the repair person comes. It looks way to useful the for the 99.9% of the time it is not in the way.
Yes! I was going to make same comment
Not like he can't unbolt it and move it out of the way or anything. SMH.
Great idea. Look at this way regarding the garage repair door complaints. I've have the same garage door springs for 15 years, and I just had them replaced. You will use this rack EVERY SINGLE DAY. You're coming out way ahead in the plus column!
Hey it's UA-cam. The place I come to all the time to learn or get ideas on how to do something, how not to do something, and a whole lot in between. Sometimes it's a combination of the three. I applaud your efforts and your contributions.
Thanks. I appreciate your positive input. I have gotten some negative feedback from garage door repairmen who say that it is too close the the spring. If you decide to do this you may want to leave at least 12" from the outside wall.
I made floating shelves in my garage also, different style because my roof is flat and I made a house rule "nothing on the floor". If it doesn't fit on the shelves something has to go. I really keeps the garage clean and the rodent out because there is nowhere to hide. Nice video. I like the idea of the space behind for plywood extras.
I’m a contractor and enjoyed this. Great idea & i always leave space under i storage i build too. You don’t have to worry about the bottom getting wet too. Plus there’s always awkward stuff that can be stored under. You took a space and made it so many things can be stored in one place verses just a shelf. I really like it and me personally would add a couple more channels like you did at the top-maybe one on the bottom and one in the middle -just make those shelves thicker so they have a channel in them. This shelf could have containers or clips installed down the side for many other things too. Could even build a flip up compartment in the center that had dividers for screws and things. The list goes on and on on someone could easily just change a couple things to their needs. Good video-gets the creative juices flowing to expand on.
Totally agreed!
Thanks for your positive feedback!
Good build. You might want to consider using washers or a base plate before putting on the bolts. This will prevent the nuts from ripping through the wood and help distribute the weight.
Yeah, it definitely needs some of that... Fender washers or maybe some 1/8" thick, 1" wide steel bar with holes drilled in it for the threaded bar to go through to distribute the load across the board in the attic better...
I definitely agree with keeping stuff off the garage floor as much as possible. Either on wheels, or hanging from the wall or ceiling. In my garage, the foundation blocks are proud of the finished walls, so I often have shelves sitting on the foundation and then lagged into the wall studs.
I like everything about this EXCEPTE at 7:02 you are using 2x12 lumber to hang all of the weight from. You've notched out almost all of the 2x12 leaving maybe a 2 inch section to support all of the weight. I would move them out to eliminate this failure point. I've been looking for something to use this space myself and stumbled across this video. I like the idea.
Agreed, It bugged me right away when I saw the notches...
The solution is to affix a 2x4 (or at least a 1x4) to the left side of the rafter underneath the notched 2x12, forming a ledge for the 2x12 to rest on. Then, the right side tail of that notch would not be needed.
@@valkyriefrost5301 Exactly what I was thinking.. Small 12" piece of scrap 2x4 is all that's needed, and it would make this setup a LOT safer.
Agreed. As soon as I saw that, I was cringing. I would also place something under the rafter as a cleat for the hanging board.
Would adding 90 degree angle brackets to connect the 2x12 to the rafter solve this problem?
I’m used to having a respectable size shop, so when my wife and I were house shopping for a relocation and the real estate agents were claiming “large garage” “spacious garage with extra space for a workshop” I followed up with, “wait, this isn’t the walk in closet (pantry/coat closet/broom closet, etc.)?!” They were stunned, stammering, trying to salvage their sales pitch! It was classic. Settled for less house, larger lot, with a full size shop (25 deep x 50 wide) with loft over the single car bay with 10 ft tall door over the 40 ft section and lean to off the side. Also has a 10 foot rear add on that runs the 50ft width that serves as my parts and storage warehouse as it came with shelving down the full length of each wall. I’m in the midst of reconfiguring it and may do a lounge up in the loft as the storage really isn’t needed.
Love the concept of a hanging narrow shelf like that. Ive been constructing storage spots with French Cleat systems. Ill design something off a Cleat that will take it off the floor and provide space in the back. Bonus is since I have to brace the bottom away from the wall it will give me a hidden shelf for the sheets of plywood in back to also be off the floor.
Loved the extra space you created behind the cabinet for hard to store panels and the space under it for your floor Jack's was great, even the long jack handle tucks away neatly between the rods. Very nice and well thought out build.
Come on let's be real. That was kind of an unnecessary build. I'm no pro dryer but it looked like he lost shelving space on this build. What did he really accomplish? The shelf he had there was a good fit, it just looked like he needed to reorganize it
Love this! Very clever space management. I especially appreciate the show-n-tell in the attic to secure the shelves with the self-made stud.
2:09 Are you sure that's Lowe's? Sure looks like a Home Depot price tag to me... ; )
Definitely Home Depot.
Since I am pushing 80 I sold my duplex and decided to rent. I no longer wanted to deal with tenants and the maintenance was getting too difficult for me to do. I gave away most of my larger tools but I still needed substantial storage space. I purchased some 18" shelves from Sam's for around $100.00 each they have wheels and shelf liners. They have them at 12"-18" and 25" wide. Great value and very sturdy for the money.
Great idea. Thank you for having a "normal" garage to show how this is coming together.
normal garage 18x19?? maybe for rich people. in Canada a normal garage is 20x12 or 22x12.
Very nice design. I particularly like the rods that hang the shelving. I might be able to do something similar in my little blacksmith shop!
If I was to suggest one thing to others watching this.... if you don't want the hassle of going through the ceiling, you can make hangers that mount to the ceiling with glue and screws. Drill a hole for the threaded rod in some 2x4, then counterbore the wood to make room for a Tee Nut. When this is mounted to the ceiling, the Tee Nut is captured between wood and roof material so it can't back out or pull loose. The 7" of clearance behind the shelf would even allow for gusseted brackets to be mounted to the wall so the shelves could hang from it.
Or coulda just screwed into the wall frame and save yourself some wasted space, time and money.
@@BenJamin-iz6yc Not necessarily. The wall studs would have needed to be where you needed them, plus you would need to build some kind of hangers that spaced the cabinet off of the wall to get that gap for storing sheet goods. Doing that would have put tremendous strain on the wall anchors and likely resulted in something that just ripped out after awhile. Never mind the problem of it swinging around on you.
I love the 2x12's spanning joists. I did same, but also some larger dia washers under those nuts, since all the weight is trying to pull the nuts thru the wood. Just makes me feel better
I never thought of having shelving in this area, but I think it is an excellent idea, as there are enough typical household small items that such use makes good sense. Thanks for showing how extra storage in this area is possible. My goal is to once again park my car in the garage where it belongs, like when I first moved in. lol...
Significant other had to clean due to new garage door install. First time I'd seen the entire garage floor in ages. I should have snapped a picture to remember what it looked like one week later.
Love the innovation of this idea. I did something similar in a basement that sometimes gets water so I made a set of shelves on a dolly that had extended ends to store sheets of plywood. It kept the shelf and plywood off the floor but also let me pull it out and move it around to clean.
Would have been good to put large washers under the nuts as well to prevent the bolts from being pulled down onto the wood over time
Love. The idea of using the chalk line. Been doing woodworking for most of my life and never considered it. Ha! Thank you.
I think this is a great idea, but I am a bit concerned about your boards you used in the attic. Since you had to notch them so significantly to fit around the rafters there isn't much meat left to span the gap between the joists. I would check them often for signs of cracking or reinforce them to carry the weight across that span. Aside from that, neat idea, and well executed.
I was thinking the same. Should have sistered a board to the rafter under that board for more support.
I also see no need for a ten foot all thread. Just bolt it from the top. 8 inch bolt would hang that. I'm not a fan of the cross beam. I would've used steel. Nice idea with clutter hiding storage behind the shelf.
@@hipairbrush1053 I can see the benefit of running the all thread to the bottom. What he is trying to accomplish is to carry the weight from the bottom like a normal floor bearing cabinet would. If he were to suspend it from a bolt as you suggested the cabinet would be trying to pull itself apart from the top plate as currently built. It would need to be constructed a little different for this to work, but I see where you are going with it.
You kept saying Lowe's but anyone can tell your video is showing Home Depot signage , saw station and orange decor accents to wonder what other discrepancies are being overlooked?
@@Rafi_l maybe he is like me and swore off the Home Repo due to their crappy corporate idiot mentality
If only I could move that fast I could get all my work done and keep my wife happy.
Really clever way to put floating shelves.
Clever design and like the idea of hiding large plywood behind it as well as keeping it off the floor. When you epoxy your floors I recommend 100% solids and spend the time with the prep work. You have a new subscriber. 👍🏼
This is really thoughtful. I didn't get the wood rack and the space be hind the shelf and I did notice the clearance on the floor. It's not a floor to ceiling. It support from the rafters. That is good thinking 😲👍
Just in time for this video! Started to purge my garage and in dire need for good space and organizing. My mother I mean wife is killing me with the “garage mess”, new subscriber here, can’t wait to relax and go thru all the goods! Salute from NC!
You’ll have a blast changing out your springs, drums, tracks, or even sections on the garage door. Most garage door companies will make you move that shelf before they show up to work
What kind of absolute imbecile pays someone to fix something as simple as a garage door?
@@OvertonWindex -- Uhhhh.... The same sort of imbecile who would probably severely injure themselves working on the torsion springs on the garage door? :)
Functional and looks good. My take is that MDF is the worst product to use in an outdoor environment (is painted so hopefully doesn’t go out right away), all-thread was a bit of overkill for mounting solution but works, and I would have added shelf so plywood storage behind is off the ground
Cool idea for otherwise wasted space. I think the MDF might sag after a while especially in humid environments so I'm curious how its holding up.
Yeah, that was my (admittedly mild) concern, too. But, he can always tuck in some painted-out mdf midspan pieces easily enough. I'd probably use plywood for the shelves or include midspan supports at the outset. Not dissing on Scott, I just know that 'Murphy' is alive and well (my husband is too, he used to do avionics engineering), and I'd have a sagging problem sooner than later.
I definitely like the idea.
Yeah, definitely a concern... He's apparently in Texas (car license plates) and there are areas that are comparatively dry (at least as compared to the Houston area where I'm at). There's no way that I would use MDF for shelving... Like with particle board, it's strength is mainly in compression, not tension... Combine that with the humidity around here and you would have sagging shelves pretty quickly... Having owned a house with cabinets that used particle board for the vertical pieces in the carcasses and seen what damage a little water can do to them over the years, I will not buy *anything* made from it again...
Not sure what part of Texas he is in... The subdivision does not look completely flat, so that means that it is most likely not the Houston area... Maybe Austin or Dallas... He has an insulated garage door, so I might be inclined to suspect the Dallas area since it does get slightly cooler there than in Austin...
Pro tip. Always prime raw wood especially when applying an oil based finish paint
what happens if you dont?
A lot of work and materials for such simple shelves for a garage.
Great thinking on not going all the way to the floor. When blowing out and cleaning the garage, it’s awful when everything gets caught behind a shelf or object.
And the space on the side against the front wall - easy enough to get back in there and vacuum out/sweep out any spiderwebs in the usually quiet corner. Had it been tighter to the wall at that point, who knows what would be nested back there where nothing can get to it. (no offense to spiders, but there's a whole world outside the garage to find a meal and home in)
I use a metal file cabinet for chemical storage.
Idea compliments of “Essential Craftsman”
Thank you so much! I was trying to figure out a solution for my garage storage issues and I think this video actually covered everything!
Ur awesome keep making videos ! 😊
As a garage door installer/Technician I can tell you that servicing or repairing your garage door whenever need is gonna be more expensive for you because of this shelf being in the way
As a former mechanic. Or ask any mechanic. The space to work on or repair the garage door is a luxury. Compared to working on a modern car. As the spaces are so tight a college girl would be jealous.
@@jakal172 i have 4 college girls so i shouldn’t have thought this was so funny… but i did… 🤣😂🧏🏼♀️🤦🏼♀️😂🤣😂🙊🙈🙉
I've been thinking of doing something similar in my garage, except I'm thinking of putting the shelves on a trolley so they could be moved back and forth to access plywood etc behind them. Also I'm thinking of a second slider in front that would be somewhat like a door, but with a pegboard on it for a yard tools. This would give me storage basically three levels deep, but relatively easily access.
Just remember if you make a slider you will need an equal amount of space on the side you are sliding toward for clearance.
I like the setup...In the future instead of cutting a 2x for in the ceiling - use can just use some B-Line/Uni-strut. Less tedious that having to clearance joists :)
I like the color Rock Bottom. That's also my birth stone.
Man I really like that shelf. I’m going to build myself one. Thank you.
He says bought at lowes shows home Depo ! Hilarious then he says I used a foam brush and the paint was so good it left no brush marks I didn’t think foam could leave brush marks ? Any way thanks for the idea keep it up!
Excelente video! Me encantó el diseño y la idea de dejar el compartimiento para los plywood.
Neat idea. I have the same concerns with the MDF as most others do. And the space to work on the garage door springs. Having storage behind the shelves for plywood or whatever is wasting that much space next to your shelves, as you have to have room to slide those sheets out. Garage wall space being at a premium, it seems that is almost useless if you need more wall space to hang things
This is excellent. Going to definitely build derivatives of this in my new house.
I have been struggling to think of how to use the space better for oils fluids ect for cars I’m not going to copy and past but gave me an idea of how to thanks to this video thanks
Hope the garage door spring never breaks. You might be relocating that shelf to get to drums and end bearings.
I like the look of the rods on the outside
Very cool idea. Not sure why I'm watching this considering I'm in the process of building a 30x50 shop but I love space management ideas like this. Good job!
Neat, I was thinking imagine putting that on a suspended rolling track.
I like that Idea! If ever you need the garage door spring worked on you could roll it further away.
Not sure if it’s already been pointed out. Another benefit of hanging them is garage floors have slope. Everything you place on them is out of level. Eliminated this by hanging your shelves. Great solution for your sheet material! Not sure about future shelf sag, but easily solved with a center support made of the same material. 👍👍
Thanks for your comments. It’s been over a year and there hasn’t been any sagging. I think the nails through the back panel are the reason.
@@ScottsGarage17 that’s awesome. I only say this because I built a shelf in the same manor and front sagged a bit, but not the back. I had too much weight on them as well. 8-1 gallon jugs on one shelf😬 Great project, Scott
nice work, Scott. I am currently trying to solve the problem of garage organization myself. This was helpful. One of my issues is sheet materials, and your idea is awesome. Although, one couldn't store anything vertically or bulky next to the shelving units that can't be easily moved to get the sheet materials pulled out.
"Garage organization" -- the process of attempting to store 100 pounds of crap in a 50 pound bag... :)
I prefer to keep things off the floor of my garage also... It allows me to use the leaf blower to clean it out periodically and the power washer to clean it further if need be... I don't have sheetrock or MDF in my garage, so a power washer does not damage anything... Everything is either concrete, bare wood, or Hardi Plank...
This inspired me to use the space behind my existing steel shelf.
Nice! I like it, especially the storage for the Jack stands and car Jack. I'm always looking for them in my cluttered garage.
Concerns: MDF will warp depending on humidity and weight distribution. Your mask is designed for particulates, not vapor, or smell. When painting with oil based materials open the garage door and use a fan to protect from inhalation hazard. Is there a source of ignition in your garage such as a water heater? Latex paint provides a durable surface with easy clean-up and disposal. Just some random thoughts. Enjoyed the content.
Thanks for your input, Conservative Christian!
So many concerns for so little effort. Never ceases to amaze me.
I was a housepainter from the 70's on. Oil base was all most people knew up to just a few years before that and we survived.
Yes I agree with you dalesworld. Unfortunately society these days have been conditioned to extreme measures when it comes to safety.
@@dalesworld1308 -- It seems like all the painters that I knew back then were alcoholics... Apparently the buzz that they got while painting needed to be replaced by something else when they weren't working... Or maybe it was just that that occupation attracted people who had chemical dependencies... Kind of a "chicken and the egg" sort of thing, I guess...
It's not that difficult to create a fresh air hood / mask for when you are working with really nasty stuff... I had to do that around 25 years ago when I was staining / polishing / sealing a concrete floor in a house that I owned at the time...
Cool idea but I would never use MDF for anything but maybe a workbenche top it warps far too easily and wont last long at all in a garage where temperature and humidity changes dramatically
Absolutely Brilliant! I think I am going to follow similar design.
Thanks!
Nice & practical, that's what it's all about. Thank you for posting.
Lordy, what is this world coming to? 19' x 20' is not a 2 car garage. We were looking at houses in Florida with 21' x 22' garages and vetoed them all because of the garage sizes, no way to open the vehicle doors. Don't builders realize that garage space is more important than living space? Finally found one with a 24' x 35' 3 car garage with 3 - 9' x 8' doors. Going to have to remodel the house but we got the garage we wanted/needed.
Yeap...throw in a water heater, electric panel, water softener, and sometimes airhandler......one car garage is left
That's one of my complaints about houses these days... It's like they are designing the garages under the assumption that everyone has a Mini Cooper or Fiat 500... He's apparently in Texas, so there is no excuse for that... A 2-car garage should be big enough to put 2 full size pickups or Suburbans in it with room enough to open all the doors and not hit another vehicle, plus enough room in the front and rear to walk around the car easily without opening the garage door...
Considering the fact that he has a table saw and some other large tools in there, I suspect that his garage is either just as a workshop or at best could have 1 car in there when he needed to work on it... The table saw is likely to prevent putting 2 cars in there at the same time... He's in Texas and it's not uncommon to see people who have multiple cars parked in the driveway and no room in the garage... Often it is because of the size of the vehicles since a full size pickup might be a bit difficult to fit in one of the garage unless it was COMPLETELY empty... I had a pickup for 14 years and it never saw the inside of a garage and the paint was still good... I've seen pickups will less age with the clearcoat coming off though... I figure it was because I didn't wash it that often and the dirt was protecting the paint... :)
Never move to europe than🤣 this garage is considered a big garage here🤣
I e never like the three separate doors. I’d rather have a double door and single door instead of 3 bays
Great Idea to recover wasted space and have easy access to canned lubricants and other stuff.
wow looking out your garage door into your subdivision it looks like we could be neighbors. I'm in central Texas.
Great show kind Sir. It will be a good item to do ourselves. Thanks for sharing it with us.
This was a great idea!!! Would love to to this in my garage.
It's your garage do anything you like. Too many people bitching for no reason. If you buy a good garage door and maintain it you really don't need anyone to fix it.
It cracks me up that the "tennis ball on a string" is such a prominent "Co-Star" in this video, lol. You couldn't pin it up and out of the way for filming?
Really cool design! I love that you can store sheet materials behind it, something I always have trouble storing. Good job, thanks for shairing.
That's a great way to store sheets of plywood, etc. if you want them to sag and warp.
As an extra thought, I would have added extra nuts to the threaded rods, on the part of the shelf that is facing the open part of the garage. This would enable you to add some extra stubby shelves, for more storage in the future if needed
for what it's worth you could've used 1/4" threaded rod.. it's way stronger than people realize lol
awesome project, nice idea on having them cut all of it for you 👍
Multiply half of the diameter of the rod by itself and then by pi (3.141592...)... This give you the surface area of the cross section of the rod... Multiply that by the tensile strength of the material (probably at least 40,000 psi for common steel)... This will give you the yield strength for it... From there, divide by 4, 5, or whatever safety factor you desire and you have your safe working load... For a threaded rod, use the diameter at the inside of the threads (minor diameter), not the outside of the threads... Using this with an unthreaded 1/4" rod, you would get 1963 lbs... For a threaded rod, you'r looking at a minor diameter of 0.1876", so it would work out to be about 1106 lbs.
Just some trivia in case anyone is curious... :)
@@CurmudgeonExtraordinaire you so have to consider he's using four of them, with the load evenly spread..
awesome bit of info !!
my comment was from working with conveyor systems that hang from the ceiling of my job .. we have over 11 miles of conveyor with more than half of it being suspended from above..packages run butt to gut for hours sometimes, and the only thing we ship is books, so the boxes are ways heavy
@@aztekwarrior518 -- 1/4" rod would definitely be strong enough, but one thing he has to also consider is lateral stability and the 1/4" might give him a bit too much flex... Personally, I wouldn't go smaller than 3/8" of an inch... But I wouldn't use threaded rod, I would use rebar and weld some shorter lengths of threaded rod or bolts onto the ends... Also, if you use 1/2" 16-gauge square tubing, a 3/8" bolt can be forced (when in doubt, use a bigger hammer) into it and then welded...
@@CurmudgeonExtraordinaire as I said we have live conveyors and catwalks suspended at my job.. you can make them sway just by lightly rocking back and forth .. obviously we're not using 1/4", but the amount of time it would take for a failure would be incredibly long in this case
What's the access like to the garage door cable and spring?
The colors and the painting look great!
This is a garage door repair mans bane. Having shelves or other stuff near the tracks and door that are not moveable just makes it more difficult to make adjustments, repair, or replace the door. If it was up to me I would charge more everytime I would have to work on a garage that has unmovable storage. But I will say it looks nice and it has some good concepts.
I like this, and am going to do this. When I do need my garage door serviced (hopefully not for some time as its only 4 years old) I would just remove it before the repair person comes. It looks way to useful the for the 99.9% of the time it is not in the way.
Thanks, Zero Tech for your feedback. I’ve gotten the same from other garage door guys, most of which have ripped me to shreds. Thanks for at least being respectful. What if I moved them further back a foot or so?
@@ScottsGarage17 Yeah no problem like i mentioned its a really neat concept but if you design it to be easily removable that would be the best. Moving it a foot or two back gives a bit more clearance which helps with the front part of the door like the vertical tracks. But you would still have a little issue with the horizontal track which in the video looks like its only a couple inches which is not bad, cause I had to work with much worse before and still got the job done.
But the best options would be if its easily removable or just plain movable, like puting it on the floor with casters. Otherwise moving it back a couple feet helps too.
@@randomeverything3023 I agree its very useful and if you moved before they show up that wont cause any issues. Also if you maintenance your garage at least once a year you shouldn't have to worry about it breaking for maybe 5-7 years which is when the springs usually break, unless you only open you door once every week then it will last way longer. Just make sure you don't use WD-40 or put any kind of grease or lubricant on the tracks, that's another way to make you garage door repair company mad 🤣
@@zora_tech good to know. I open my door maybe twice a week. so, should be good for a while.
This is great, I am looking for ways to maximize storage and spaces in my home. Thanks for the ideas.
Just so you know, I’ve been getting a lot of negative criticism from garage door repairmen who have watched my video who say it is too close to the rails and will cost more if you ever need to get your garage door spring repaired.
@@ScottsGarage17 Sir there will always be someone with a negative comment. I have a sloped ceiling in my garage, and I am looking for the best idea possible. I just thank you for your time, experience and a possible way forward.
Great job on your first design in fusion! Way better than my first attempt!
I think some hook screws on the ends with a bundgie cord running across to hold items from falling forward would be nice just a thought
Cool idea
I'll be modifying it and making it cooler 😎
god job... :) you could have put a nut and washer on the bottom of you 2 by on the attic I think you would get better tension on the rod
Nice work man! I like all the thought you put into it's features.
very neat job - giving me good ideas- thanks, Scott!
The top corner will be problematic when maintenance is required on (or replacement of) the Garage door. The area near the torsion system needs to be kept clear so that a technician can access the hardware with room for tools to change Springs, replace cables or address other potential issues. Doors installed on new homes are typically of poor quality and will need attention. Some torsion systems are not "industry standard" and do not extend past the edges of the track, be aware a proper torsion tube is 12" longer than the width of the door. Keep permanent shelves a minimum of 12" from the torsion system hardware.
Just made a similar comment, and as a professional garage repairman, I completely agree 👍
Can probably remove bottom nuts and remove the shelf, Hopefully. wouldn't want that broken cable repair.
Great idear . Never heard of the threaded rod design.
Nice work. Did you ever consider allowing the shelf to slide left and right? You could accomplish this with some metal track mounted on the ceiling and anchored to the joists in the attic. The tops of the shelves themselves would have small rollers or wheels on them which roll along the metal track. I believe the metal track and wheels are made by Unistrut.
sophisticated! I don't have an open attic above my garage, so this method is not feasible for me!
Then you have to adapt for what you have... It's going to depend upon the structure of your garage -- where you have the ceiling joists, wall studs, etc... If you have ceiling joists that go across the garage parallel to the garage door (like he has), then you should be able to install another board to the bottom surface of the sheetrock in your garage ceiling using lag screws into each of the ceiling joists. This board can be used as a hanger to attach the threaded rods instead of going through the ceiling and using another board spread across the joists like he did...
Nice build. My new garage has the same layout. I'm going to have to build the same thing.!
It's worked out real well. If I had to do it all over I would leave a foot between the shelves and the outside wall. I've gotten some negative comments from garage door repairmen who say they need more room to replace garage springs. I probably would attach the threaded rods differently as well. I think they could be countersunk in a 2 x 6 and attached with lag bolts from the bottom side (ceiling) of the rafters.
@@ScottsGarage17, That might work as well.
I might go to the floor and just put locking casters on mine, to make it mobile.
I love the idea of the hanging shelves. I am thinking about putting the shelving system on a barn door track so the shelves could cover each other up. I know your garage does not have the space for that. The track system would also keep the garage door installer very happy.
Very nice! I wonder if you could also utilize those rods for hanging small items. Two nuts per bar with a rod or sheet between them and you would have a shelf or hanging rod that you could adjust the height as needed. I'm going to keep this shelf idea in mind after OSB sheets come down in price and I can redo my garage.
Excellent project my boys and I can do together.
I have some extra narrow thin lumber called "strapping", normally used to attach drywall too. I can probably make some shallow shelves with that stuff.
Well done Scott….
Just found your channel we are now friends very informative
Great idea and execution
You my friend earned a sub. Great work
Good design!
Scott, you did a great job. I'll be using this idea for my garage. You have a new subscriber. Keep up the great work.
Can you add bars between the screws to hang things like shop towels for drying or hooks to hang brushes/broom?
how is that MDF holding up a year later? I built a whole set of kitchen type cabinets for my garage (both uppers and lowers) out of MDF. After a couple of years they started sagging and racking due to the humidity here in Florida so I replaced them with 3/4 ply and they have held up very well and it is going on 12 years. MDF does well in compression loads but not so well in any other orientation, it also swells if any moisture is left on them for any length of time even when painted or sealed. Bottom line, you did a nice job but keep an eye on them because they will eventually fail.
No sagging at all so far. Thanks for your comment.
Good ideas. Thanks for sharing.
like your creativity!
Love the idea, would have to modify for my particulars (no access above) but pretty cool!