Time stamps Package Content: 0:16 Chassis: 1:12 How to strap battery down with rubber band: 2:00 Chassis (cont. to suspension): 2:31 Electronics: 4:55 Body: 6:27 Problems & how to fix: 7:26 Test Drive: 9:24 Test Drift: 10:14 Final verdict & conclusion: 11:02
Perhaps ordering a new chassis could solve most of the issues with the uneven wheel balance along with small 0.2 mm shims here & there too tighten the slop down in the suspension ? And yeah its quite flawed, the electronics might be good too put in a rolling q7 chassis though if you can find one as it does have a lipo cutoff.
@@Mini-z1994 I think so. Chassis is now straight after I rebuild the centre plate. The problem comes mostly from suspension arms and knuckles so with whole suspension rebuild by filing and adding shims should take the slag off. Still, shocks are not as smooth as you would think despite them being alloy. Oh, and putting the electronics in other chassis is also exactly what I think would be the best use. Putting them in Q7 will make a fantastic compact car with compact transmitter for extreme portability. Come to think of it Firelap should sell 2-in-1 with Transmitter separately so we can put that in other car without buying a whole IW05 with slim chance of working.
Excellent job on being brutally honest! More reviewers like you is needed. Most just look over things and mess around with out actually looking in debt like you did and try to modify it from the get go.
Hopefully you get a working one. These cars is kind of mixed quality and you'll never know what you're gonna get. If it work it would be a good car. If not, well then you got a parts bin for other car(s) you might have.
One or two of my peer was actually invented that weird motor placement for chinese 1/28 RC. Early prototype model is a handmade from scratch, built from brown PCB board and some power glue. Even suspension parts were made from ballpoint scrap and cotton buds. With unknown hours of adjusting, it was drift nicely...Even better than any stock models from Kyosho and Atomic at the times. Years later, he/them collaborating with Atomic team in HK, then make similiar prototype from atomic DRZ/AMZ. To my suprise that Firelap might be the first one to make that design mass produced. From your review, for me it's obvious that it needs better ball joints (Atomic or any micro heli rc). Each slack on ball joint would add the wobbling. Curled chassis is a huge flaw, since it designed to be flat and rigid for whatever material was used. Firelap's plastic also known for being brittle (early mini Q model), so I highly doubt they'll doing better in this complex configuration/ design. They should stick at Mini Z or takara tomy's Drift design for make it works. Thanks for your reviews btw, that's cool.
Thank you for your insight. It's really unfortunate the car turned out this way. I saw the prototype render of this car and thought, OK, that was inventive of them to do something like this. The final product could have been be good if it had better quality and standard diff placement.
Ah, that you mention it, I just remember the most important point from this gearing configuration (for RWD version). Final gear (that directly spin cup joints and wheels) must be aligned to center, thus giving most balanced L/R wheel torque possible. It might also a necessity to reinforce the motor mount. I've seen extreme modification on this only part as far as using Aluminium slab, or even customized CNC part. If you cheap ass (like me) power gluing the plastic motor mount with a layer (or more) of FRP might works too. *Tips: applying pressure/ clamping in drying process would dramatically increase bonding strenght and rigidity. Just let it sit undisturbed (while clamped) for several hours, until it dries. You'll get better weight distribution by placing 2S battery near the raised motor, across chassis. So that's it...The real beauty of these weird gearbox is the ease to configure desired gear ratio/ final wheel rpm and balanced wheel torque on rear. The rest is chassis alignment (a.k.a fixing the "wobble). At this tiny scale of moving objects, even a smallest detrimental change could greatly affect overall drifting performance. So good luck for your next build :)
Great review and thanks for providing the details. I love the fact that you don't just stop after placing a battery and trying it. You go the steps further to get it to run correctly. I agree-great idea, poorly executed.
I have a losi micro sct 1:24 scale brushless with 2s lipo. Idk how much this costs, but for $150 the losi arguably more "scale" behavior. In grip situations and offroad jumps. But for drifting!!! My god this is brilliant
Losi is very popular in your area, I presume. It looks like a good car indeed. Unfortunately it's not in my area of expertise. As of today this one costs 81 USD and it would be good if it drifts to the left as well without suspension problem. You can get a much better car than this for less as I mentioned in the video. Also if you are interested in drifting you can browse my channel for 1/28 (Mini-Z size) cars. I think you will find many videos to help you start micro drifting. For example this is the Q7 playlist from start to finish as an excellent drifter. ua-cam.com/video/Q3Nt7Wrq3ws/v-deo.html
The shop depends on where you are. Normally I'd recommend genuine Kyosho parts from Banzai Hobby banzaihobby.com/radio-control/kyosho-miniz/mini-z-racer-tires If you are in the US or NA check out kenonhobby.com/ For Europe: minizracing.it
The suspension arms on this car don't just move up and down, it can twist and get stuck too. That's where this problem comes from. I have given on up on this car. BTW, I'm not sure if you are familiar with this scale of car (especially the cheap ones) but most of them rely on droop screw to adjust the ride height as most of them always got the shocks fully extend to full droop all the time.
@@eins2001 1/10 got a lot more adjustment than this. Only some high-end chassis like GL Racing GLA got a lot of adjustments too but not to the extend of 1/10. Still, droop screws are working as they should on that car.
I work for you guys, the viewers. So you can get the best out of your money and know what you're in for if you decide to buy it. I'm looking forward to see your new mods too.
Competition is quite fierce in the 1/28 AWD market recently. There is cheaper and better car than this which is the WLtoys K989. Also more expensive ones but excellent cars are Atomic AMZ and Mini-Q Q7.
Kyosho Mini-Z is the one with the most upgrades (because it needs to). It's the origin of these cars and why 1/28 gains so much cult following too. I only have a review for RWD version (not for drifting) right now, will to AWD version later. ua-cam.com/video/ht69BmKDUlc/v-deo.html However if you want a kit car to build then GL Racing GLA and GLR are the most race ready cars right now. The performance is great and you can use any transmitter you want. These cars don't need upgrades though, they come as upgraded or top-spec already. For entry level or GLA you can look at Atomic AMZ, I also have review for that it. ua-cam.com/video/u7Jsw8IW-zY/v-deo.html Mini-Q Q7 also got very good performance and you don't really have to upgrade it much. Upgrade path is short but effective, so to speak. Here's my drift setup explaining all the upgrades. ua-cam.com/video/kCjglUnXBQU/v-deo.html
@@BeaversHobby yes really tricky but fun for content. And of course yours was 1080p or at least hd im working with analog signal transmitted over 5.8 ghz and a dvr recording i literally drive with fpv gogles but whatever gives the best video is most important for you i guess. Maybe hawkeye have a light enough camera of maybe a runcam split 2 would work for you. Have you seen the rotorX car commercial?
@@MrJob91 Thanks for the suggestion. For recording I might get a Runcam 2 to strap on the roof. I used to have Mobius and it was really nice. Also, yep, I've seen the RotorX. It's basically FPV kit strapped on WLtoys K989 but the concept is interesting. Starting form a good car is also a big plus.
Wow, thanks for the review, I almost buy it from AliExpress. The price is almost double from k989, so I thought it would be better. I watched almost every WL K989 videos of yours. And I inspired a lot. Thanks for the great review.
I also bought one of firelap body for my k989, but it doesn't fit, and I yo scared to modified the suspension system of my k989, so I'll leave it just like that, and not put it on k989
WLtoys is a better car than this. I'm actually surprised because on paper IW05 looked so amazing. By the way, which body did you buy? If it's Audi R8, you can fit it with a bit of filing down the top of shock tower. Drilling new holes for shock is pretty challenging. Get a spare one to do it if you want to try.
@@BeaversHobby its Saleen S7, I think it is the same as R8 body. It need to pull down the shock tower, but I don't think I can do it like you do with the other videos. It pretty hard to search for 1/28 parts in my country. Until I had a strong confidence, I'll keep it like that.. 😂
Oh, Saleen has very low nose. Even after pulling down the shock it might not be enough. It's very unique and not even Kyosho has that. Putting it on the shelf is not really out of place.
Unfortunately there's no upgrade that can save this car. You can sort of make it driveable after a lot of fixes but that's pretty much it. WLtoys and Mini-Q are much better choices.
K989 needs lowered front shock tower for R8 body. I'd say it's the most tricky mod of all to get right. Here's the tutorial. ua-cam.com/video/-gCJEXXWBEo/v-deo.html
@@BeaversHobby thanks,this mod causes the front suspension to be stiffer so do you think it would hinder the cars drifting ability because I use my k989 fo drifting?also would there be any other solution such as mounting the body using the mount collums it comes with? Thanks again
@@minhaz4453 To soften the front suspension for drifting you can replace the springs with Mini-Z AWD DWS or other cars like DRZ rear springs so the length is good for the lowered front shock setup. Or you can cut the original springs to the appropriate length too.
By the way, it never run out of range because the car always crashes before going anywhere. Maybe it's a safety feature haha. ps. Dancing Tohru is really cute.
Like the solid body shell and the metal but I'd rather have the K989 for the price and doing some of the mods you have shown us makes it a winner in my book , that's thanks to you !
Mini-Q Q7 is the easiest one to drive and mod. I have a series dedicated to this car and cover all the basics too. ua-cam.com/video/Q3Nt7Wrq3ws/v-deo.html
I'm not a beginner in rc driving, I know how to drift it and I'm quite good at it, but I need a 1:28 drift chassis that is cheap and i don't have to fix a lot and I can't spend a lot of money on it, so, is this chassis good for me? If no, can you give me the link to a -50 euros 1:28 chassis? Thanks.
Avoid this IW05 or any Firelap in general. At around 50 Euros the only choice is WLtoys K969. bit.ly/2znqnbb Of course you'll have to do some fixing but it's not a lot. I have a series dedicated to that chassis and you only need first 2 stages. The series is labelled for touring car but it's the same car as K969, just different differential and tyres. K969 has locked diff and drift tyres out of the box. ua-cam.com/play/PLS79G3YjA2fAEez9GVeLW3JIy_LUIb6Mb.html
@@BeaversHobby thank you, but after a good reflection, I tought that's better to buy a 3d printer and print my own chassis... Thanks, I will continue to watch your channel to build it, if you want more informations write me on Instagram, I'm ces_a02
You can find my insagram on my channel, and if you want watch a few of my stop-motion drift videos, (I will be absolutely proud if you write a comment under them...) thanks! Greetings from Italy!!!
@@pietrisco_motorsport My pleasure. A 3D printer can do much more and you can just get only parts you need like differential, gears, wheels and tyres. Best of luck with the project!
Hi man, I was just wondering if you had sussed out any ways of improving this chassis? I wasn't going to get one after watching this review, however I managed to get one for 86 pence from eBay the other week lol...... so if it does turn up, with your help, it would be nice to be able to get it working well
Not sure if you got this V2 version or V3 (the AE86 in my later video.. which broke down rather quickly). For V2 you'll have to tinker a lot with the suspension to get the shocks fully extend and full contact on the road. V3 doesn't have that problem. It drives pretty well but it's very brittle.
Thanks for the reply👍I'm not sure what version it is...... it does come with the ae86 shell though...... I'll have to see what it looks like when it arrives
Best choice right now that won't break your bank is to build the Atomic AMZ. Here's my review. ua-cam.com/video/u7Jsw8IW-zY/v-deo.html Mini-Q metal chassis is pretty OK but not as good as Q7. You can get Q7 brushless and add your own transmitter. Then you need to replace swing shafts and wheels because stock swing shafts are plastic and stock wheels rub the suspension.
I am the one who talks to you in your mini q q7 videos, Juan Carlos from Spain, I also bought this car and it came to me that the engine does not work from the esc if I accelerate it gives me 7v, it is the engine almost certainly, in bangood they gave me back The money and I kept it, and I had planned to use the bodywork in the mini q, for not painting the one that brings the mini q, would you repair the engine? or would you leave it for spare parts? tranks
Great review as always, i have this the horrible ex. of buying this car. I thought the frame was warped from shipping. Had all the defects you had plus a few more this thing is trash... Hate to be so mean but its true..
Sorry to hear that. I wish I had this car much earlier so there's no one suffer from it. Is your car Lipo version of older AAA version with plastic chassis? If it's plastic then I'm afraid that can't be fixed.
Way to much money for a car you have to fix right out of the box... If it's going to be that crappy...then sell it in a kit form and some people might be able to fix it during the build .
I don't think they make it anymore. Short answer is no, you can't drift it. It's basically MR02 clone with lesser plastic quality. You can only use it for grip driving or mild powerslide out of a corner.
Most of stuffs with 98mm wheelbase will fit. I suggest Mini-Z narrow 98mm body like the FWD series and the new Subaru Impreza. Not every 98mm body fit because I have Mini-Z Lexus SC430 GT500 and that doesn't fit due to motor position and shock mount.
@@OJ6J There are better cars for cheaper though, like WLtoys K989. This one is awful to drive. If you can increase your budget a bit Mini-Q Q7 is brilliant.
@@OJ6J Mini-Q Q7. Here's the review. ua-cam.com/video/Q3Nt7Wrq3ws/v-deo.html Using Mini-Z body. ua-cam.com/video/3dUMMfmmZi8/v-deo.html And this is after a few upgrades. ua-cam.com/video/kCjglUnXBQU/v-deo.html
Upgrade is rather a fix. Now the shims that I ordered just arrived and I'm figuring out what can I do. From the looks of it, probably not much but at least I'll try to make it work properly.
Hi Beaver, love your content. I'm thinking of getting into the micro RC world with the Mini Q - 1/24th DIY kit: hobbyking.com/en_us/diy-rc-4wd.html. What do you think of that? Is it something I can buy and enjoy without doing excessive fixes and upgrades? I'm not sure if you're into to trucks, but i'm also thinking of buying this one as well: hobbyking.com/en_us/1-24th-scale-mini-4wd-off-road-truggy-rtr-us-plug.html. Would love to have your opinion.
The Mini-Q DIY or Mini-Q Q1/TRQ1 is a good place to start. Essentially it's a cut-price Q5/Q6 so it's a proven chassis. And so far I've seen no complaint so it should be good or at least nothing to fix out of the box. I don't have much knowledge about truck but the chassis seems nice.
@@BeaversHobby Would you recommend getting the Mini Q DIY kit, or the WLToys K989? It seems the K989 has more community/parts support, and upgrade-ability. I wanted to use the Mini-Z bodies.
Generally anything else but Firelap stuffs is good. Not that they are known for high quality with reasonably priced product in the first place but they seem to drop the standard lately. IW04M re-release has crap electronics, IW05 has crap chassis. Anyway, WLtoys K989 and Mini-Q Q2 provide the best value for money, Mini-Q Q7 is fantastic.
Wow what a review...This car is really messed up. I was about to get 1 just to match up with my WLTOYS... I'm a lazy person & love plug & play, so in this case... No thanks.
![[Review] Firelap L-408G6 (IW04M) 1/28 4WD](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/odfvxe6lIHM/mqdefault.jpg)
Time stamps
Package Content: 0:16
Chassis: 1:12
How to strap battery down with rubber band: 2:00
Chassis (cont. to suspension):
2:31
Electronics: 4:55
Body: 6:27
Problems & how to fix: 7:26
Test Drive: 9:24
Test Drift: 10:14
Final verdict & conclusion: 11:02
Perhaps ordering a new chassis could solve most of the issues with the uneven wheel balance along with small 0.2 mm shims here & there too tighten the slop down in the suspension ?
And yeah its quite flawed, the electronics might be good too put in a rolling q7 chassis though if you can find one as it does have a lipo cutoff.
@@Mini-z1994 I think so. Chassis is now straight after I rebuild the centre plate.
The problem comes mostly from suspension arms and knuckles so with whole suspension rebuild by filing and adding shims should take the slag off. Still, shocks are not as smooth as you would think despite them being alloy.
Oh, and putting the electronics in other chassis is also exactly what I think would be the best use. Putting them in Q7 will make a fantastic compact car with compact transmitter for extreme portability.
Come to think of it Firelap should sell 2-in-1 with Transmitter separately so we can put that in other car without buying a whole IW05 with slim chance of working.
Beaver's Hobby I’m gonna be waiting for that to come out =)
Let me save you 13 minutes... Final verdict is that it is horrible even if you modify it.
Exactly!
Also you have given me an idea. I should make a video for all my cars with short verdict.
@@BeaversHobby RC Cars Gordon Ramsey haha
@@BeaversHobby did you make one?
Always love to watch tips and mods for this 1/28 scale rc car from your channel. Keep up the good work
Thankyou for your wonderful videos. I've taken up this hobby in lockdown and these videos help alot.
Excellent job on being brutally honest! More reviewers like you is needed. Most just look over things and mess around with out actually looking in debt like you did and try to modify it from the get go.
I ordered one of these models, mixed feeling after watching your review.
I will have to see what I receive in the mail, keep up the great content.
Hopefully you get a working one. These cars is kind of mixed quality and you'll never know what you're gonna get. If it work it would be a good car. If not, well then you got a parts bin for other car(s) you might have.
tnx for being so detailed on its features!! I hope firelap are watching! they definately have tools to make a better car!
I really do hope they are watching this and take it to improve their car.
Love your honest reviews and your sense of humour
So much potential, poor execution. Just received one in the mail and the left bottom strut just popped out. A lot of quality and finishing miss steps.
“How did they do this? Bite it off?” :-)
Thanks for the video!
One or two of my peer was actually invented that weird motor placement for chinese 1/28 RC. Early prototype model is a handmade from scratch, built from brown PCB board and some power glue. Even suspension parts were made from ballpoint scrap and cotton buds. With unknown hours of adjusting, it was drift nicely...Even better than any stock models from Kyosho and Atomic at the times. Years later, he/them collaborating with Atomic team in HK, then make similiar prototype from atomic DRZ/AMZ.
To my suprise that Firelap might be the first one to make that design mass produced. From your review, for me it's obvious that it needs better ball joints (Atomic or any micro heli rc). Each slack on ball joint would add the wobbling. Curled chassis is a huge flaw, since it designed to be flat and rigid for whatever material was used. Firelap's plastic also known for being brittle (early mini Q model), so I highly doubt they'll doing better in this complex configuration/ design. They should stick at Mini Z or takara tomy's Drift design for make it works.
Thanks for your reviews btw, that's cool.
Thank you for your insight. It's really unfortunate the car turned out this way. I saw the prototype render of this car and thought, OK, that was inventive of them to do something like this. The final product could have been be good if it had better quality and standard diff placement.
@@BeaversHobby Also, the prototype is a RWD with gyro. Firelap seems experimenting AWD configuration for cutting cost of gyro setup.
@@ivakanoffsnyder4501 Now the gearbox makes sense.
Ah, that you mention it, I just remember the most important point from this gearing configuration (for RWD version). Final gear (that directly spin cup joints and wheels) must be aligned to center, thus giving most balanced L/R wheel torque possible. It might also a necessity to reinforce the motor mount. I've seen extreme modification on this only part as far as using Aluminium slab, or even customized CNC part. If you cheap ass (like me) power gluing the plastic motor mount with a layer (or more) of FRP might works too. *Tips: applying pressure/ clamping in drying process would dramatically increase bonding strenght and rigidity. Just let it sit undisturbed (while clamped) for several hours, until it dries.
You'll get better weight distribution by placing 2S battery near the raised motor, across chassis.
So that's it...The real beauty of these weird gearbox is the ease to configure desired gear ratio/ final wheel rpm and balanced wheel torque on rear. The rest is chassis alignment (a.k.a fixing the "wobble). At this tiny scale of moving objects, even a smallest detrimental change could greatly affect overall drifting performance. So good luck for your next build :)
Thank you so much for your guide. I'll be sure to follow it when I fix or mod this car.
"10/10 would roll over again" beaver you have me dying 😭😭😭😂
This was a great video. Very detailed and informative. You just saved me some money. Thank you!
Great review and thanks for providing the details. I love the fact that you don't just stop after placing a battery and trying it. You go the steps further to get it to run correctly. I agree-great idea, poorly executed.
your videos are all so good! thanks so much for taking the time to make them this great!
Thank you for your kind words.
I have a losi micro sct 1:24 scale brushless with 2s lipo.
Idk how much this costs, but for $150 the losi arguably more "scale" behavior. In grip situations and offroad jumps.
But for drifting!!! My god this is brilliant
Losi is very popular in your area, I presume. It looks like a good car indeed. Unfortunately it's not in my area of expertise.
As of today this one costs 81 USD and it would be good if it drifts to the left as well without suspension problem. You can get a much better car than this for less as I mentioned in the video. Also if you are interested in drifting you can browse my channel for 1/28 (Mini-Z size) cars. I think you will find many videos to help you start micro drifting. For example this is the Q7 playlist from start to finish as an excellent drifter. ua-cam.com/video/Q3Nt7Wrq3ws/v-deo.html
Micro Losi's are down right awesomesauce. shame they are fading away and getting freaking pricey.
@@carbonitegamorrean8368 i have one with all hop ups sitting on my shelf lol, brushless, alum shocks. Name a price bro xD
I wish, and I do appreciate the offer more than you know, but due to health/disability = no income, I'm broke pretty much all the time.
unfortunately they have been discontinued and parts are now getting hard to find and pricey.
Hey beaver , great videos , thank you for providing such good detail! Any suggestion where we can buy some rubber tires ? (link)
The shop depends on where you are. Normally I'd recommend genuine Kyosho parts from Banzai Hobby banzaihobby.com/radio-control/kyosho-miniz/mini-z-racer-tires
If you are in the US or NA check out kenonhobby.com/
For Europe: minizracing.it
10/10 I would subscribe again
Heads up: droop screws are not for adjusting ride height. The reason the tires don't evenly touch the ground is probably due to uneven droop settings.
The suspension arms on this car don't just move up and down, it can twist and get stuck too. That's where this problem comes from.
I have given on up on this car.
BTW, I'm not sure if you are familiar with this scale of car (especially the cheap ones) but most of them rely on droop screw to adjust the ride height as most of them always got the shocks fully extend to full droop all the time.
@@BeaversHobby Ahh. Gotcha. I am used to 1/10 scale.
@@eins2001 1/10 got a lot more adjustment than this. Only some high-end chassis like GL Racing GLA got a lot of adjustments too but not to the extend of 1/10. Still, droop screws are working as they should on that car.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks for the info! I am just starting my mini RC journey. I have a Mini Z MR03 Sport 2 and a Rage RC Mini Q.
@@eins2001 Nice cars. MR03 is where most people start to get into racing too.
Nice video. At least you got a nice body out of it. Seems like you fixed extensively and as good as it can get and even then it falls short.
The body fits K989 too so... yay!
Hi Beaver. Very good impartial review. Take care, Banggood will not send you cars anymore :). See you soon on Rcgroup.
I work for you guys, the viewers. So you can get the best out of your money and know what you're in for if you decide to buy it.
I'm looking forward to see your new mods too.
Great vid. Not sure about the car though. A cheaper alternative to Kyosho's Mini Z, but so very inferior as well.
Competition is quite fierce in the 1/28 AWD market recently.
There is cheaper and better car than this which is the WLtoys K989. Also more expensive ones but excellent cars are Atomic AMZ and Mini-Q Q7.
Outstanding review. Thank you. New subscriber. Which 1/28 RC car like this has the best upgrade path?
Kyosho Mini-Z is the one with the most upgrades (because it needs to). It's the origin of these cars and why 1/28 gains so much cult following too. I only have a review for RWD version (not for drifting) right now, will to AWD version later. ua-cam.com/video/ht69BmKDUlc/v-deo.html
However if you want a kit car to build then GL Racing GLA and GLR are the most race ready cars right now. The performance is great and you can use any transmitter you want. These cars don't need upgrades though, they come as upgraded or top-spec already.
For entry level or GLA you can look at Atomic AMZ, I also have review for that it. ua-cam.com/video/u7Jsw8IW-zY/v-deo.html
Mini-Q Q7 also got very good performance and you don't really have to upgrade it much. Upgrade path is short but effective, so to speak. Here's my drift setup explaining all the upgrades. ua-cam.com/video/kCjglUnXBQU/v-deo.html
รีวิวได้ละเอียดมากครับ เป็นประโยชน์มากเลย สุดยอดรถ!555
I saw you placed a camera on a car for recording! good effort!
It made the car much more top heavy but I've never got a roll over before. That was interesting. Luckily I had the case on.
@@BeaversHobby yes really tricky but fun for content. And of course yours was 1080p or at least hd im working with analog signal transmitted over 5.8 ghz and a dvr recording i literally drive with fpv gogles but whatever gives the best video is most important for you i guess. Maybe hawkeye have a light enough camera of maybe a runcam split 2 would work for you. Have you seen the rotorX car commercial?
@@MrJob91 Thanks for the suggestion. For recording I might get a Runcam 2 to strap on the roof. I used to have Mobius and it was really nice.
Also, yep, I've seen the RotorX. It's basically FPV kit strapped on WLtoys K989 but the concept is interesting. Starting form a good car is also a big plus.
Very good review, thank's!!
Thanks for sharing!
You should have categories listed as the good,...the bad,...and the ugly,....this car would suit the ugly category.
Awesome review and awesome accent.
I love this video your accent is awesome man :)
Good review. Thank You.
Wow, thanks for the review, I almost buy it from AliExpress.
The price is almost double from k989, so I thought it would be better.
I watched almost every WL K989 videos of yours.
And I inspired a lot.
Thanks for the great review.
I also bought one of firelap body for my k989, but it doesn't fit, and I yo scared to modified the suspension system of my k989, so I'll leave it just like that, and not put it on k989
WLtoys is a better car than this. I'm actually surprised because on paper IW05 looked so amazing.
By the way, which body did you buy? If it's Audi R8, you can fit it with a bit of filing down the top of shock tower. Drilling new holes for shock is pretty challenging. Get a spare one to do it if you want to try.
@@BeaversHobby its Saleen S7, I think it is the same as R8 body.
It need to pull down the shock tower, but I don't think I can do it like you do with the other videos.
It pretty hard to search for 1/28 parts in my country.
Until I had a strong confidence, I'll keep it like that.. 😂
Oh, Saleen has very low nose. Even after pulling down the shock it might not be enough. It's very unique and not even Kyosho has that. Putting it on the shelf is not really out of place.
@@BeaversHobby thanks for the info, now I'm going to put that body into the shelf. 😅
Hey Beaver I noticed many cars at this scale will drift well one way but not the other! do you know why this is?
From my experience it's mostly from weight bias. But the diff also has some role in this.
Hmm...seems like its not amazing, but its nice enough for 90 bucks. Might be nice to see upgrades for it and thatd make it worth it.
Unfortunately there's no upgrade that can save this car. You can sort of make it driveable after a lot of fixes but that's pretty much it. WLtoys and Mini-Q are much better choices.
It's a nice mini car.I do like it. Thanks.
Send It Back Its Faulty Good Video 👍
I've been talking with others who got this car as well and this is how it is. It didn't have suspension problem when it was plastic chassis though.
Very helpful video! Would that r8 body fit the k989 with minimal modifications?
K989 needs lowered front shock tower for R8 body. I'd say it's the most tricky mod of all to get right.
Here's the tutorial. ua-cam.com/video/-gCJEXXWBEo/v-deo.html
@@BeaversHobby thanks,this mod causes the front suspension to be stiffer so do you think it would hinder the cars drifting ability because I use my k989 fo drifting?also would there be any other solution such as mounting the body using the mount collums it comes with? Thanks again
@@BeaversHobby I just saw this video ua-cam.com/video/yjmGqICYrqQ/v-deo.html would this be possible to put the body like that
@@minhaz4453 Yes, you can just drill it too but I don't do it because I want to utilize Mini-Z mounting system.
@@minhaz4453 To soften the front suspension for drifting you can replace the springs with Mini-Z AWD DWS or other cars like DRZ rear springs so the length is good for the lowered front shock setup. Or you can cut the original springs to the appropriate length too.
12:38 Is the external atenna for show only? I don't see any wire connected to it...
Yes, it's only for show. There's only small antenna on the board. I've actually covered this back with IW04M, the black pole is fake.
@@BeaversHobby Ah ok thanks. I missed the part when you mentioned "there is nothing inside" in the IW04M video.
By the way, it never run out of range because the car always crashes before going anywhere. Maybe it's a safety feature haha.
ps. Dancing Tohru is really cute.
@@BeaversHobby Haha.
awesome review
Like the solid body shell and the metal but I'd rather have the K989 for the price and doing some of the mods you have shown us makes it a winner in my book , that's thanks to you !
That gear whine is unreal...
Hey thanks for all the nice videos, subbed. Would you share which 1:28/1:24 is best for drifting without too much modifications?thanks!
Mini-Q Q7 is the easiest one to drive and mod. I have a series dedicated to this car and cover all the basics too.
ua-cam.com/video/Q3Nt7Wrq3ws/v-deo.html
I have a sneaking suspicion this is Misaki.. samurai buyer
Great review.
I'm not a beginner in rc driving, I know how to drift it and I'm quite good at it, but I need a 1:28 drift chassis that is cheap and i don't have to fix a lot and I can't spend a lot of money on it, so, is this chassis good for me? If no, can you give me the link to a -50 euros 1:28 chassis? Thanks.
Avoid this IW05 or any Firelap in general.
At around 50 Euros the only choice is WLtoys K969. bit.ly/2znqnbb
Of course you'll have to do some fixing but it's not a lot. I have a series dedicated to that chassis and you only need first 2 stages. The series is labelled for touring car but it's the same car as K969, just different differential and tyres. K969 has locked diff and drift tyres out of the box. ua-cam.com/play/PLS79G3YjA2fAEez9GVeLW3JIy_LUIb6Mb.html
@@BeaversHobby thank you, but after a good reflection, I tought that's better to buy a 3d printer and print my own chassis... Thanks, I will continue to watch your channel to build it, if you want more informations write me on Instagram, I'm ces_a02
You can find my insagram on my channel, and if you want watch a few of my stop-motion drift videos, (I will be absolutely proud if you write a comment under them...) thanks! Greetings from Italy!!!
@@pietrisco_motorsport My pleasure. A 3D printer can do much more and you can just get only parts you need like differential, gears, wheels and tyres. Best of luck with the project!
@@BeaversHobby thanks!
What’s better this or kltoys k900 models?
K900 all the way.
does this come with the lipo battery?
No, this one doesn't come with a battery.
.... But in reality it is the worst car I've reviewed so far.... make me lough like crazy .
9:04 ahh inner peace
Is it a bad car for beginners?
Yes, it's the worst you can get right now.
Hi man, I was just wondering if you had sussed out any ways of improving this chassis? I wasn't going to get one after watching this review, however I managed to get one for 86 pence from eBay the other week lol...... so if it does turn up, with your help, it would be nice to be able to get it working well
Not sure if you got this V2 version or V3 (the AE86 in my later video.. which broke down rather quickly). For V2 you'll have to tinker a lot with the suspension to get the shocks fully extend and full contact on the road. V3 doesn't have that problem. It drives pretty well but it's very brittle.
Thanks for the reply👍I'm not sure what version it is...... it does come with the ae86 shell though...... I'll have to see what it looks like when it arrives
wow very nice good rc
It looks good but doesn't drive as good as it looks.
So it's junk then..
Is it best to get the alloy mini q and build your own..
Or get the sinohobby rtr brushless..??
Best choice right now that won't break your bank is to build the Atomic AMZ. Here's my review. ua-cam.com/video/u7Jsw8IW-zY/v-deo.html
Mini-Q metal chassis is pretty OK but not as good as Q7. You can get Q7 brushless and add your own transmitter. Then you need to replace swing shafts and wheels because stock swing shafts are plastic and stock wheels rub the suspension.
I am the one who talks to you in your mini q q7 videos, Juan Carlos from Spain, I also bought this car and it came to me that the engine does not work from the esc if I accelerate it gives me 7v, it is the engine almost certainly, in bangood they gave me back The money and I kept it, and I had planned to use the bodywork in the mini q, for not painting the one that brings the mini q, would you repair the engine? or would you leave it for spare parts? tranks
Use the body with Q7 then keep this car for spare parts. It's not worth fixing.
@@BeaversHobby jajajaj gracias
@@juancar69 My pleasure.
Did the r8 chassi work on wl k989
Yes. But you'll need to either lower the shock towers or lift the front body lip up a bit to fit perfectly.
@@BeaversHobby ty for ur answer:)
@@bikersquadoaldomi9004 My pleasure.
DAT accent tho
Great review as always, i have this the horrible ex. of buying this car. I thought the frame was warped from shipping. Had all the defects you had plus a few more this thing is trash... Hate to be so mean but its true..
Sorry to hear that. I wish I had this car much earlier so there's no one suffer from it.
Is your car Lipo version of older AAA version with plastic chassis? If it's plastic then I'm afraid that can't be fixed.
น่าผิดหวังมากครับพี่ จะสั่งตัวนี้มาแต่เจอรีวิวพี่บีเวอร์ไป ควรคิดได้แล้วว่าซื้อดีไหม5555. ตามมาจากกลุ่ม wl ครับ
ตอนนี้มีตัวอัพเดตออกมาแล้วครับ จะเป็นไง แก้ปัญหาหรือเปล่า ต้องรอดูกัน
Way to much money for a car you have to fix right out of the box...
If it's going to be that crappy...then sell it in a kit form and some people might be able to fix it during the build .
Can you review IW02-B 2wd fire lap recomended on drift or no thankyou
I don't think they make it anymore. Short answer is no, you can't drift it. It's basically MR02 clone with lesser plastic quality. You can only use it for grip driving or mild powerslide out of a corner.
What body shell fit on the shasis
Most of stuffs with 98mm wheelbase will fit.
I suggest Mini-Z narrow 98mm body like the FWD series and the new Subaru Impreza.
Not every 98mm body fit because I have Mini-Z Lexus SC430 GT500 and that doesn't fit due to motor position and shock mount.
Because im think buy this but I don’t like the body shell
@@OJ6J There are better cars for cheaper though, like WLtoys K989. This one is awful to drive. If you can increase your budget a bit Mini-Q Q7 is brilliant.
Wish one recommended?
@@OJ6J Mini-Q Q7. Here's the review.
ua-cam.com/video/Q3Nt7Wrq3ws/v-deo.html
Using Mini-Z body. ua-cam.com/video/3dUMMfmmZi8/v-deo.html
And this is after a few upgrades.
ua-cam.com/video/kCjglUnXBQU/v-deo.html
Can you upgrade this to see what'll happen please!
Upgrade is rather a fix. Now the shims that I ordered just arrived and I'm figuring out what can I do. From the looks of it, probably not much but at least I'll try to make it work properly.
Hi Beaver, love your content. I'm thinking of getting into the micro RC world with the Mini Q - 1/24th DIY kit: hobbyking.com/en_us/diy-rc-4wd.html. What do you think of that? Is it something I can buy and enjoy without doing excessive fixes and upgrades? I'm not sure if you're into to trucks, but i'm also thinking of buying this one as well: hobbyking.com/en_us/1-24th-scale-mini-4wd-off-road-truggy-rtr-us-plug.html. Would love to have your opinion.
The Mini-Q DIY or Mini-Q Q1/TRQ1 is a good place to start. Essentially it's a cut-price Q5/Q6 so it's a proven chassis. And so far I've seen no complaint so it should be good or at least nothing to fix out of the box.
I don't have much knowledge about truck but the chassis seems nice.
@@BeaversHobby Would you recommend getting the Mini Q DIY kit, or the WLToys K989? It seems the K989 has more community/parts support, and upgrade-ability. I wanted to use the Mini-Z bodies.
เจ้าของ Ch นี้ คนไทยหรือครับ??
สำเนียง Eng ฟังง่ายมากเลยครับ
ขอบคุณครับ ผมคนไทยครับ ทวิตเป็นภาษาญี่ปุ่นเพราะส่วนใหญ่เอาไว้ตามข่าวกับชิงโชคเกมที่เล่น
@@BeaversHobby เริ่มเอะใจครับ เพราะเริ่มเห็นตั้งชื่อ VDO เป็นภาษาไทย แต่อีกเครื่อง เห็นเป็น EN ทั้งหมด ไหนจะมี CC ภาษาไทยอีก
นอกเรื่องครับ สั่ง Banggood บ้านเรา สุ่มเจอ customs บ่อยมั้ยครับ?
@@zPeAcEzFX ที่ชื่อวีดีโอขึ้นเป็นภาษาไทย Translation น่าจะทำงานครับ หลัง ๆ ผมเริ่มใส่ชื่อวีดีโอ 2 ภาษา
คือผมไม่ได้อยู่ไทยน่ะครับ แต่เห็นคนซื้อกันก็ไม่ค่อยติดด่านนะ
ล่าสุดมันว่ามีเก็บเงินปลายทางด้วยสำหรับบางอย่าง
I bought two cars and yes it is disappointed, they are not good quality as mini z. Don’t waste your money, stick with Kyosho Mini z they are well made
เอาอะไหล่รุ่นนี้ไปใส่ wltoys 1:28 ได้ไหม
ได้บางชิ้นครับ คือโช๊คอัพ กับล้อ ส่วนแขนต่าง ๆ นี่ต้องโมถึงจะใส่ลง
@@BeaversHobbyครับผม น่าลองเอามาใส่ดู
@@ChezVous2 ตัวรถไม่ดี เก็บไว้แงะเป็นอะไหล่ใส่ WLtoys นี่ล่ะครับ ออใช่ บอดี้ก็ใส่ได้นะ ตะไบเสาโช๊คออกนิด กับด้านในบอดี้ออกหน่อยแล้วใส่ลงครับ
บอดี้สวย
บอดี้ใช้ดีด้วยครับ ตอนนี้ใส่ K989 วิ่งอยู่
ดีไมครับ
ห่วยมากครับ อย่าซื้อนะครับ
มีตัวใหม่ออกมาดีขึ้น พอวิ่งได้ แต่ก็ยังห่วยอยู่ดี รุ่นอื่นราคาใกล้กันดีกว่าเยอะ
Ever gonna do a wltoys a989?
No, I don't have the car.
@@BeaversHobby looks decent for $30
@@OmniMan_Racing It sure does. Right now for similar price there's Mini-Q TRQ1 with 4WD and pretty much a cut-price Mini-Z MA010.
Thank you banggood for providing a low quality product that can waste any customers money..buy kyosho Miniz if you want your money worth.
Generally anything else but Firelap stuffs is good. Not that they are known for high quality with reasonably priced product in the first place but they seem to drop the standard lately. IW04M re-release has crap electronics, IW05 has crap chassis.
Anyway, WLtoys K989 and Mini-Q Q2 provide the best value for money, Mini-Q Q7 is fantastic.
That car look sloppy. All the suspension components are moving all over the place.
It's the worst car I've ever had.
Wow what a review...This car is really messed up. I was about to get 1 just to match up with my WLTOYS... I'm a lazy person & love plug & play, so in this case...
No thanks.
Herro prease
Great review, poor build quality. Too bad so much slop.
Make it drift bro
Gotta make it works properly first.
Mines at least came with a battery
Did you buy it from Banggood?
No eBay
@@teddybear7599 Lucky you. 😄
Orang indo ya😃😃
ผมเห็นตำแหน่งกับจุดยึดมอเตอร์ก็เครียดแล้วครับ
ราคาเท่าไหร่ครับ
ประมาณ 2600 บาทกว่า ๆ ครับ ว่ากันตามตรง ไม่คุ้ม
AMZ 2590 ไม่มีชุดไฟยังคุ้มกว่านี้เลย
อดรอรุ่นที่คุ้มค่าครับ ขอบคุณครับ
Good video....crap car
shid the shlof
Anda orang mana?
Originally Thailand, now living in Greece.
Okee..,i from indonesia
@@ASP29Tech Nice to meet you. 😃
Gay
Why does he talk like that
These cars are terrible
It is indeed.
Did you talk with your tongue outside of your mouth when you recorded