first of all i want to compliment you on your meticulous and highly informed takes on the nexus of fashion and art. very rare. your passion is evident. second, a long time ago when i worked in retail we carried jil sander while she was still in charge. the fabrics were of much higher quality than any of the other brands at the time. there was also always a very subtle sexiness to the cuts, architectural as they were. as a gay woman designing for women, i think that aspect of her work is often overlooked but essential to fully understanding her oeuvre. again, thank you for putting such interesting content out here for the rest of us to enjoy. it must be a lot of work, i am sure.
I see a lot of Narciso Rodriguez/Calvin Klein Americanization of this aesthetic. I am in my 50's and modelled so much of my wardrobe around these looks. I see this and it brings me back to my workhorse wardrobe. Gorgeous, timeless and two sizes ago....!!! Look at the models' hair as well. Wasn't this just a moment before Tom Ford and Gucci lit it up? I loved all of those looks as well. Plus no major plastic interventions. These girls were gorgeous for real. My fave looks these days are By Malene Birger, Bottega (old), Toteme, and I love tweed by not overly cloyed with. I liked Smythe in its first five years. I love your observations, Mary! Keep it up! PS I loved your choices for 2024 and possibilities for '25.
You got the book?! YES! 🥰 It must be utterly frustrating for designers to find dupes of their design everywhere before they even had the chance to drop the items for the customers to buy. It's true, people then get over the style before it even had the chance to breathe. I wandered into a Madewell store last Summer. I didn't know at the time that Madewell was fast fashion. I walked to the back of the store & because you keep us up to date on the Look books of the season, I saw dupes for The Row's Fall designs, as well as dupes of the red mesh shoes. When I pointed out the very distinct tote that was absolutely a knock of from The Row, the women there had no idea what I was talking about. I bought nothing from that shop. 😂 It was just weird to have that awareness, & no one around me knew what the heck I was going on about.
Jill was going toward the future. Her fashion was radical in that she using textile that was cutting edge manufacture in west Germany. she did not use natural fabric. Her education was in textile and not fashion. Her look about 90% textile and 10% fashion basic. Imagine a shirt lighter than air made out a micro mesh which was costly to make. Who would buy her expenses Fashion? Women who work in finance and business. They appreciate her effort in high quality manufacture and excellence in textile. It was perfect balance formula for success until Prada took over and crash it. It has never recovered.
I might sound like a conceited prig, but just so you know… The -s in ‘Yves’ is silent-as it’s the case 95% of the time with the letter s at the end of French words; The -ein in ‘Klein’ is pronounced like the nasal vowel in the words ‘un’ (1/one), ‘parfum’, or ‘vin’ (wine) ;) Great video, as always ❤
first of all i want to compliment you on your meticulous and highly informed takes on the nexus of fashion and art. very rare. your passion is evident.
second, a long time ago when i worked in retail we carried jil sander while she was still in charge. the fabrics were of much higher quality than any of the other brands at the time. there was also always a very subtle sexiness to the cuts, architectural as they were. as a gay woman designing for women, i think that aspect of her work is often overlooked but essential to fully understanding her oeuvre.
again, thank you for putting such interesting content out here for the rest of us to enjoy. it must be a lot of work, i am sure.
I see a lot of Narciso Rodriguez/Calvin Klein Americanization of this aesthetic. I am in my 50's and modelled so much of my wardrobe around these looks. I see this and it brings me back to my workhorse wardrobe. Gorgeous, timeless and two sizes ago....!!! Look at the models' hair as well. Wasn't this just a moment before Tom Ford and Gucci lit it up? I loved all of those looks as well. Plus no major plastic interventions. These girls were gorgeous for real. My fave looks these days are By Malene Birger, Bottega (old), Toteme, and I love tweed by not overly cloyed with. I liked Smythe in its first five years. I love your observations, Mary! Keep it up! PS I loved your choices for 2024 and possibilities for '25.
You got the book?! YES! 🥰
It must be utterly frustrating for designers to find dupes of their design everywhere before they even had the chance to drop the items for the customers to buy. It's true, people then get over the style before it even had the chance to breathe. I wandered into a Madewell store last Summer. I didn't know at the time that Madewell was fast fashion. I walked to the back of the store & because you keep us up to date on the Look books of the season, I saw dupes for The Row's Fall designs, as well as dupes of the red mesh shoes. When I pointed out the very distinct tote that was absolutely a knock of from The Row, the women there had no idea what I was talking about. I bought nothing from that shop. 😂 It was just weird to have that awareness, & no one around me knew what the heck I was going on about.
your videos never miss!! sending love from NYC
Fascinating!
Jill was going toward the future. Her fashion was radical in that she using textile that was cutting edge manufacture in west Germany. she did not use natural fabric. Her education was in textile and not fashion. Her look about 90% textile and 10% fashion basic. Imagine a shirt lighter than air made out a micro mesh which was costly to make. Who would buy her expenses Fashion? Women who work in finance and business. They appreciate her effort in high quality manufacture and excellence in textile. It was perfect balance formula for success until Prada took over and crash it. It has never recovered.
❤️ I’m off to find a vintage piece!
I might sound like a conceited prig, but just so you know…
The -s in ‘Yves’ is silent-as it’s the case 95% of the time with the letter s at the end of French words;
The -ein in ‘Klein’ is pronounced like the nasal vowel in the words ‘un’ (1/one), ‘parfum’, or ‘vin’ (wine) ;)
Great video, as always ❤
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