Thanks for this video, used this to help me. Just completed this job myself on an N57 in a 335D with 85k miles. The cover is quite difficult to get up and out due to the diesel lines, helps to have a second person to pull them back to clear the cover. My injectors did pull out by hand, with the exception on the very front one which I used a 12mm spanner on the flats beneath the threaded fittings. You can find the torque and pattern from the BMW workshop manual, the N57 has 23 bolts that are E10 and should be torqued to 9nm. If you don't have diag tools to prime the diesel rail/injectors you can crack each injector line at the top of the injector one at a time, cranking until fuel spits from the injector then locking them down. Once you have bled a few the engine will fire.
Nice one! DO NOT attempt to bleed the fuel system by cracking the injectors though.. The HPFP pushes fuel at 4000psi which will take your eye out and much worse if it hits you. The system is self priming.
@@GeorgeAusters Although I do agree with you completely, I would also think that anyone attempting this job would have enough knowledge not to completely open up the diesel feeds. When I said crack each one, I literally meant crack them off by a turn so they leak, not spray over the neighbours fence! My vehicle would not self prime, after a long period of time cranking it would not fire, it hadn't even managed to push diesel into the fuel rail. Using a diag tool is generally successful as I believe (with no proof) that the diag tool opens the HPFP so fuel can be pushed by the low pressure pump through the entire system to the injectors and back through the leak off.
just did this job today and i have a few notes: 2:26 you don't have to remove the trim panels (on f10), it will be slightly easier to get to the back 3 bolts if you do, but other than that it's not really in the way, 5:45 ; 8:30 and 11:34 just loosen the hp fuel line that goes into the rail under the intake manifold, very easy to undo, just another 19mm and will give you way more clearance to remove and put both fuel rail and rocker cover on and off.
I have a leaking R/cover on my N57 (F34) - I have purchased a new cover as I did hear about the warping issue caused by the heat these engines make... I will check once i have removed it and at least I will have a spare if its ok - Great content George!!
I suspect my heat cover gasket is leaking. I can see traces of oil but no smoke or oil loss yet. I looked online and it said it’s probably this (being where it’s coming from) Parts looking up are £40-£70. I’ve just don’t my coolant flange and had remove my intake manifold and replaced the swirl flaps so it’s going be working on the other side of the engine now 😅 I don’t have a diagnostic tool like yours to be able prime fuel rail but I might be able borrow one to get the job done when it comes time to it
The plastic covers can warp with heat. If it does leak again it's new cover or a small bead of sealant around the gasket. I've used sealant in the past with no further leaks
Checking in, It's been a couple months, did the gasket do the job? My 2015 with 89K miles is leaking and I'm dreading this as I do my own work. Debating whether to spend the extra money on a new cover.
Hi, great video, did the gasket do the job then? Or does the rocker cover need replacing too? I have the same issue but dint know if i should chnsge gasket only or rocker cover with gasket
Hi george, f20 125d jus had my timing chain done i alsi had thid leak and its the rocker cover its self, mine was split, as its two parts plastic welded together over 100k miles they warp and split with the heat i fort it was the gasket myself 2 mins into the vid so dont if you found tgis yet haha
hey i have a 125d too and its asking for a 1l top up every month or so did you have similar syptoms? cos i notice oil around the rocker cover too just wondering if thats causing the oil loss.
@@GeorgeAusters I suspect they mean cleaning the turbo in relation to the variable vane mechanism getting sooted up which restricts the variable geometry from working. Apparently cleaning with oven cleaner can keep the mechanism freely working, having seen it done I don't see it being a bad thing (obviously depends on how sooted up it is in the first place). Look it up examples out there.
Is there a DIY way of priming the fuel system without a diag tool? I have bimmerlink but I don't believe it has the function to prime the diesel system. Can it be done by cycling the ignition several times?
I’ve the exact same issue, worse on a long run, perhaps the oil burns off the DPF, but it needs done. I’ve a 2010 with 137k. Car is faultless otherwise, just worried I’ll strip it all down and find the injectors won’t come out or break while trying 🤔😢
I have a 328D CAN ANYONE HELP ME WITH THE EXACT BOLT PATTERN FOR THIS COVER????? He was vague with details on this subject and I’m finding conflicting instructions for this on line…Please HELP 🙏
@ WHAAAA?? 😆 The “bolt pattern” is the pattern in which you torque down the bolts….you can’t just silly-nilly tighten bolts down however you want. You have to usually start with the inner 2 bolts then work yourself outwards in an X-pattern pattern to displace the pressure evenly and not trap any gaps in the cover so you don’t end up with leaks….haven’t you ever changed a tire?..same thing…99% of everything on a vehicle requires a torq/bolt pattern….oil pan, manifold, rims, exhaust etc. (E10)my boi is-the torx bolt socket head size…y’all UK bloaks B Wylin. 😆
George, your content is good and interesting, but frequently you are doing things and talking about what you are doing, but the camera is too far away. You should be doing some overlays of what you are talking about. Need you to do a video on BMW wheel arch rust repair.
Thanks for this video, used this to help me.
Just completed this job myself on an N57 in a 335D with 85k miles.
The cover is quite difficult to get up and out due to the diesel lines, helps to have a second person to pull them back to clear the cover.
My injectors did pull out by hand, with the exception on the very front one which I used a 12mm spanner on the flats beneath the threaded fittings.
You can find the torque and pattern from the BMW workshop manual, the N57 has 23 bolts that are E10 and should be torqued to 9nm.
If you don't have diag tools to prime the diesel rail/injectors you can crack each injector line at the top of the injector one at a time, cranking until fuel spits from the injector then locking them down. Once you have bled a few the engine will fire.
Nice one! DO NOT attempt to bleed the fuel system by cracking the injectors though.. The HPFP pushes fuel at 4000psi which will take your eye out and much worse if it hits you. The system is self priming.
@@GeorgeAusters Although I do agree with you completely, I would also think that anyone attempting this job would have enough knowledge not to completely open up the diesel feeds. When I said crack each one, I literally meant crack them off by a turn so they leak, not spray over the neighbours fence!
My vehicle would not self prime, after a long period of time cranking it would not fire, it hadn't even managed to push diesel into the fuel rail.
Using a diag tool is generally successful as I believe (with no proof) that the diag tool opens the HPFP so fuel can be pushed by the low pressure pump through the entire system to the injectors and back through the leak off.
just did this job today and i have a few notes: 2:26 you don't have to remove the trim panels (on f10), it will be slightly easier to get to the back 3 bolts if you do, but other than that it's not really in the way, 5:45 ; 8:30 and 11:34 just loosen the hp fuel line that goes into the rail under the intake manifold, very easy to undo, just another 19mm and will give you way more clearance to remove and put both fuel rail and rocker cover on and off.
Great video!
Loving the "ventilated" polo top lol.
😂
I have a leaking R/cover on my N57 (F34) - I have purchased a new cover as I did hear about the warping issue caused by the heat these engines make... I will check once i have removed it and at least I will have a spare if its ok - Great content George!!
Thanks for video 📹 I did it work one week ago. Also I used original valve cover and gasket it cost me 400 euro,BMW 116i 😊
You’re welcome!
I suspect my heat cover gasket is leaking. I can see traces of oil but no smoke or oil loss yet. I looked online and it said it’s probably this (being where it’s coming from)
Parts looking up are £40-£70. I’ve just don’t my coolant flange and had remove my intake manifold and replaced the swirl flaps so it’s going be working on the other side of the engine now 😅
I don’t have a diagnostic tool like yours to be able prime fuel rail but I might be able borrow one to get the job done when it comes time to it
The plastic covers can warp with heat. If it does leak again it's new cover or a small bead of sealant around the gasket. I've used sealant in the past with no further leaks
Yeah exactly what I was thinking, if the gasket does it fix it then the cover must be warped
They can leak on seams and you will hardly notice.
Nice video. Do you need to release the pressure from the high pressure fuel line before loosening the nuts? If so, how?
No
Updates? Does it fixed your problem? No more oil excessive oil comsuption?
A faulty gasket would leak only on one certain spot. Have you thought of excessive pressure in from the block?
What is the torque of common rail shaft ? Please!
Hi mate, what's the torque spec on these bolts when tightening them down? I've been looking for answers, but can't find anything definite. Cheers.
Seems like your channel specialises on cars that leak oil 😂
🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻
That s the BMW for you
Did this fix your oil consumption?
Think i have the same leak.
Great job George! Can you share what is torque specs for all those bolts? Thank you in advance!
10nm
Why did you prime with ISTA if the car primes if you leave ignition on without starting? Could you tell us where to get ISTA from?
Hi what diagnostics tool was you using to bleed the system please
Thanks ! How long in total to do the job ? Is this about 4h or more ? Many thanks again for your great tutorials !
I could do it in 1-2 hours
Checking in, It's been a couple months, did the gasket do the job? My 2015 with 89K miles is leaking and I'm dreading this as I do my own work. Debating whether to spend the extra money on a new cover.
Hi George I have a oil pressure switch fault code how easy or had is it to replace it ? It’s a n47 engine e82 2013
Hi, great video, did the gasket do the job then? Or does the rocker cover need replacing too? I have the same issue but dint know if i should chnsge gasket only or rocker cover with gasket
Hi george, f20 125d jus had my timing chain done i alsi had thid leak and its the rocker cover its self, mine was split, as its two parts plastic welded together over 100k miles they warp and split with the heat i fort it was the gasket myself 2 mins into the vid so dont if you found tgis yet haha
hey i have a 125d too and its asking for a 1l top up every month or so did you have similar syptoms? cos i notice oil around the rocker cover too just wondering if thats causing the oil loss.
That cars tune by Gary Newman is so good
Agreed!
Where do you get the flamingo print oily rags ?
Hahaha
Did it work?
nice one...I would say the valve cover is warped.
If this gasket doesn’t fix it then you’re probably right
@@GeorgeAusters only time will tell 👊
Spark plug hole ?
Glow plug hole 😅
Hey I was wondering if you can take off and properly clean a n47 turbo and if it’s possible to make a video
What do you mean clean the turbo?
@@GeorgeAusters I suspect they mean cleaning the turbo in relation to the variable vane mechanism getting sooted up which restricts the variable geometry from working. Apparently cleaning with oven cleaner can keep the mechanism freely working, having seen it done I don't see it being a bad thing (obviously depends on how sooted up it is in the first place). Look it up examples out there.
Great job but shouldnt the engine rebuild company have sorted that out for you on warranty?
They did.. They sent the money for the parts👍🏻
How much did you torque the injektor console screw in NM?
Did you find an answer for this?
The internal PCV fails causing excessive pressure. No gaskets will hold it in
@@brarautorepairs the PCV is just a diaphragm and spring on these engines
Hi what is the computer you are using at the end? Thanks
Link in description
Is there a DIY way of priming the fuel system without a diag tool? I have bimmerlink but I don't believe it has the function to prime the diesel system.
Can it be done by cycling the ignition several times?
Yes it does self bleed itself but it takes longer
How to do this?
Hello George Austers. Can you tell me where is the solenoid located on BMW 123d e87 please?? Cuz I have a Code P0045
This is a job i need to do - have put it off for a while but now i get smoke from under the bonnet at lights 🤦🏻
Get her done!
I’ve the exact same issue, worse on a long run, perhaps the oil burns off the DPF, but it needs done. I’ve a 2010 with 137k. Car is faultless otherwise, just worried I’ll strip it all down and find the injectors won’t come out or break while trying 🤔😢
Did they claim your bumper to bumper warranty?
Yes
Does anyone know what the long box with the torx screws to the right of the engine is, some sort of electric junction box?
ECU box
@@GeorgeAusters thanks mate, trying to find a easy way to get to intake manifold to move enough to change coolant flange, dont think there is one 😂
What brand you recommend if you have to change the whole cover? BMW OEM tends to be quite expensive
If you don’t go BMW then I’d probably go with someone like Febi👍🏻
My recommendation use only original cover...Because another brand work 50/50😊
I have a 328D CAN ANYONE HELP ME WITH THE EXACT BOLT PATTERN FOR THIS COVER????? He was vague with details on this subject and I’m finding conflicting instructions for this on line…Please HELP 🙏
What do you mean by "Bolt pattern"?
He said E10 more than once.....
@ WHAAAA?? 😆 The “bolt pattern” is the pattern in which you torque down the bolts….you can’t just silly-nilly tighten bolts down however you want. You have to usually start with the inner 2 bolts then work yourself outwards in an X-pattern pattern to displace the pressure evenly and not trap any gaps in the cover so you don’t end up with leaks….haven’t you ever changed a tire?..same thing…99% of everything on a vehicle requires a torq/bolt pattern….oil pan, manifold, rims, exhaust etc. (E10)my boi is-the torx bolt socket head size…y’all UK bloaks B Wylin. 😆
Great video!
Can you skip the bleeding of the fuel lines or does this really need to happen? Can you do this without a tool like yours?
Always best to bleed the fuel system but it will self bleed itself
@@GeorgeAusters
Thanks for answering! Would like to try this myself but don't have any diagnostic tools
How , using the ignition multiple times? Can you explain how to do it without diagnosing tools?
Probably not been torqued down to the right spec or sequence
I checked and all bolts were torqued
George, your content is good and interesting, but frequently you are doing things and talking about what you are doing, but the camera is too far away. You should be doing some overlays of what you are talking about. Need you to do a video on BMW wheel arch rust repair.
Yeah I need to fix my other camera to get in closer👍🏻