Another great video Ian. I have watched most to this point and glad I have. My '72 2.0 has garaged for roughly 15 years and I actually had planned on selling it. Watching you tackle your 914 has encouraged me to bring mine back to life. In fact, I started today, pulled the plugs and added a quantity of Marvel Mystery Oil to each cylinder. Will let that sit for several days and attempt to manually turn over the engine, car jacked up at one corner, transmission in 5th gear and try rotating one wheel. If successful, then the fun begins, new fuel lines, vacuum hoses, send out injectors for testing/servicing etc.
This is great. I literally watched every video. You explain it so well as to how each part works. Now I just need to find an original FI system for my bus so I get junk the carb set up!
Thanks 👍 Really enjoying what you're doing too. And it seems we have a soft spot for similar cars. Would be fun to collab. Hit me up @karrscars on insta or @iankarr on FB!
Thanks 👍 Really enjoying what you're doing too. And it seems we have a soft spot for similar cars. Would be fun to collab. Hit me up @karrscars on insta or @iankarr on FB!
Awesome video! I got 2 scoops of motivation today to continue working in my 914; I learned that I work with someone who owns a 914 and getting to watch this video. Thank you. 😊
I don't have a 914 yet. Been on my bucket list for years. I do have a few type 4 engine Vw buses. This motor build series was fantastic. Very detailed and very good video shots as well. Makes me want to upgrade my 2.0 into a more powerful engine. 😊
Great UA-cam channel . Congratulations on restoring your 914 . The 914 engine is it similar to the VW type 2 bay bus ? I have a 1979 bay window bus with a 2.0 fuel injection engine with a automatic transmission. And is going to need rebuilt . Do you know if they are similar? And are the part compatibles ? Like the fuel injector & vacuum lines ?? Thanks for your time and great Chanel keep up the great work on UA-cam
Good job Ian. The best thing to do before the first start up (or after a long rest period) is to crank the engine without spark plugs, in this manner all the bushings reach immediately the best lubrification without effort, without friction.
Brilliant Ian, that feeling when it's just spinning and no life isn't great but at least no crunching or knocking noises 😀 you probably helped the lube build up pressure before into life 👍 Looks great in the light
This has been a great series!iv a 914 engine i installed ina street rail rhat sees the woods off road sometimes,with tire and wheel change, anyhow, installed hydraulic lifters, sodium exhaust valves,removed all the injection, installed dualweber 40s, port matched everything,huge oil cooler remote filter,still a low mileage engine ,also did pertronix ignition,hand made the ignition wire set to handle lightning. reworked and gusseted bug trans,big flywheel and clutch.2seater,im right around 1800 lbs,runs crazy,goes as fast as you dare,runs out of engine at 90 mph5500 rpm. Ignition, distributor just clapped out, bearings failed 50 yesrs old,so im down. thanks for your efforts
Another great milestone video. My first start day is fast approaching. Idf throttle bodies, megasquirt, wasted spark.conversion . your videos and your advice always top notch. Glad to see another 914 back on the road. Can't wait to see some driving vids....
Awesome Video and total series Ian. So happy it lit and it sounds awesome. I will say I was thirsty for the how to set up the 1,2,3 distributor, nobody really has a good video on that that I have seen for a type 4 or even a 6. I'm hooked to these!!!
Early versions of the fuel hose diagram may have had the inlet and outlet of the fuel pressure regulator swapped. If you follow the diagram and find your fuel pressure is in the stratosphere, that's one thing to double check.
That'll be a video of its own. Basically you rotate until the light just comes on to set static timing. Then you still have to use a timing light to adjust as you would any other dizzy.
Ian, I have enjoyed all your videos. I was curious if you were going to be posting a driving video with your thoughts on the performance of the car. I am in the process of tearing down my 2.0L and will be split the case tomorrow. I am considering the same modifications with an increase to 2257 and a mild WebCam 00472. I have not ordered those components yet until I have seen the condition of my internal components. Thank you again for all the great information. Steve
Oh, I forgot to ask: The D-jet trigger point connector has three connections. You only show two for the 1-2-3 trigger point connection. How does that get hooked up to the wiring harness? Does a ground connection get added or some such?
There's a diagram that comes with the 123 which shows which connectors on the harness those two wires go into. I think the third is a ground which may be supplied through the distributor itself. I plan on doing a 123 dizzy video soon on my green car...
Hi Ian, I love your videos. I also have a 914 1.7L. I wish I had your technical know-how. What is the displacement and how much hp does from the rebuild?
Thanks Don. I'm just an average mechanic working on above average cars ;). this new engine is a 2056. Not sure about the HP but I think it's in the range of 115
Ian, I'm' sorry I missed you at the Northeast gathering, I was looking forward to seeing your car. What made you choose to stick with FI instead of going with carbs?
Sorry I missed the fun as well! The cars are out in Utah and so am I:). I wanted to stick with FI because it’s a bumblebee and I wanted to keep it stock in as many ways as I reasonably could. Besides I’ve had carbed cars and found them to be more finicky…
You’ll find your valve covers easier to get out if you flip the valve cover bales over so the bumps on the bales don’t interfere with the valve covers during removal, once the heater boxes are installed.
@@IanKarr - with the engine in the car the valve cover bales (or retainers) rest on the heater boxes when you’re trying to get the valve covers off. The way they are now the bales will interfere with the vale covers as you try to remove them. If you remove the bales from the cylinder heads and put them on the other way it will be much easier to remove the valve covers with the engine in the car.
Hello Ian. Circling back with a question or two or three regarding your use of the Tangerine Racing Oil Pressure Relief insert. Did you maintain using it? Any advice regarding how to ensure installing correctly? And lastly, how is it performing for you now that the engine is running? Thank you in advance!
Hi Thomas. I'm still trying to determine if I'm going to keep that relief system in the car. As for installing, it pretty much only goes in one way. Don't forget a new crush washer. Enjoy!
@@IanKarr Thanks for you reply Ian. I'm close to starting my motor assembly. Amazing how many parts there are, especially the build-up (after the longblock)! At first I thought I would stay completely stock, including polishing the oil control and oil relief internal ports. I think that would help the piston not get stuck or hung-up. My oil relief port has indentations from the spring (likely, it got stuck in essentially one spot and over time small movement made the imprints of the spring coils). Can I ask you to please do a video solely on the oil relief and oil control system? I am sure there is a large part of the community that will benefit from the good, bad, and ugly. BTW: I did order one of the Tangerine Racing inserts so I might wind up trying and changing as I think you are. Your thoughts? Thank you.
Awesome!! I am still getting my body panels straightened out. Where did you obtain your widebody panels? Someone dented in every quarter panel somehow when they were moved the car with a forklift. Thank you for the video!!
@@IanKarr I am finding it kinda tough to match the thickness of the rear deck lid. I tried 18 gauge and it is way too thick and even 22 gauge sees too thick. What gauge is the rear deck lid made out of?
Ian, Another great video! I noticed in the background your oil pressure sender and what looked like a hose from a grease gun. Ive heard some folks use the grease gun hoses to screw into the oil pressure idiot light port and reroute the oil pressure sender since it wont fit in the original hole in the tin. Is that what you did on this?
Hi Ian - ive been following your engine build while undertaking my own first build from a /72 1.7L 914.. Im finally getting close to the end - engine tin all mocked up and fitting well - but I've realised that most of the rubber/seals that go on the tin are missing, cracked, etc - and need to be replaced - everything, ideally - my challenges is knowing what is missing and where to source the parts. Everything from the small grommets on the tin, to the alternator rubbers/sealing ring, HTC grommets.. and anything else that I probably dont yet even know is missing. where would one go to get all those parts, have you any trusted suppliers?
Hi Ian, That's funny about your fuel pump miss wire, I did the same thing a couple weeks ago. My pump in my other car was very loud after I replaced it with a new Holly Weber pump and my car wouldn't start. Then I realized it was miss wired. Duh, I switched the +/- and it fired right up. By the way, how's the Bumble Bee car running? I'm doing the same thing you've been doing right now with another engine. I'm just starting to put together my engine after getting all the parts together and the tear down of the donor, it's a 1975 Type-4 2056 Build also. My case is a 1.8L, big bore 96mm pistons, 71mm stroke. Oh, mine has dual 40 Weber's, not Fuel Injection (The original engine had FI). Those 123 Distributors are kind of pricy. After a while, these engines can be a big money pit. I know you spared no expense for other items! :) As soon as I get my CAM from WEB-CAM (6 or more weeks to get it), I'm starting my build. They said I should get it just after July 4th. I need to go back and find your first video's to make sure I don't miss anything.
@@IanKarr Thanks for the reply Ian. PLEASE share what you learn to us, regarding the Decal Valve you use, why selected? What you experienced? And, how you adjusted the one you decided to use? That will be a huge help.
Thank you Ian. Had been waiting for this one. Congrats on the start-up! Question: With the 123 Ignition Distributor, does it require either vacuum line(s) that would have attached to the Vacuum Canister and attach to the Throttle Body? If so, which one or are there both? An explanation will help me and others I'm sure. Thanks!
Yes, the final install on my car has a vacuum connection from the throttle body to the dizzy. I believe it's the advance. There's only one vac port on the dizzy. Of course the hose needs to be plugged when setting the timing...
Hi Ian.. thanks for you replies.. I have a really stupid question but how does one ensure the HT leads are correct / with firing order 1-4-3-2 but I’m unsure which is 1 on the distributor.. would it be correct to assume the rotor moves clockwise, so once 1 on the dizzy is known.. next lead should go to 4, then 3, then 2..? But which of the 4 options on the dizzy is 1’.. I m quite sure my engine is at TDC and the rotor is pointing to cylinder 1
yes, the rotor moves clockwise 1-4-3-2. Normally, when the engine is at TDC of #1, the rotor points to about 4 o'clock, if you were standing in front of the fan. Remember that on these engines, the flywheel makes two revolutions for the rotor to make one revolution, so the notch on the flywheel lines up with the split on the case when TDC and #1 and TDC of #3. So you need to look at the rotor to confirm you're at #1 (and / or remove the plug and verify that the #1 piston is at the top of the stroke.
@@IanKarr thanks! That’s very interesting and puzzling as my notch is lined up and the rotor is point to about 1-2oclock as you look at the engine. I’m following a VW type 4 engine restoration manual and it seems to be correct. Perhaps there is a difference between VW type 4 and Porsche Type 4, though all I’ve read suggest they are the same bar the oil filler location and the internal oil baffle. Really grateful for you input! Thank you.
There's a Northeast gathering in a few months. Join 914world.com for more details. Several of us teeners in the tri state area, but nothing super formal. Service wise, there's Gaswerks in Paramus NJ and GT Auto in Millwood NY.
![Porsche 914 VW Type IV 2056 Build Part 7 - Pushrod Tubes, Cooling, Alternator [Pr. Bumblebee Ep 23]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/7nyAJYLk2mU/mqdefault.jpg)
![Porsche 914 / VW Type IV 2056 Engine Build Part 4 [Project Bumblebee Build Week 18]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pETd03F1Os4/mqdefault.jpg)
Another great video Ian. I have watched most to this point and glad I have. My '72 2.0 has garaged for roughly 15 years and I actually had planned on selling it. Watching you tackle your 914 has encouraged me to bring mine back to life. In fact, I started today, pulled the plugs and added a quantity of Marvel Mystery Oil to each cylinder. Will let that sit for several days and attempt to manually turn over the engine, car jacked up at one corner, transmission in 5th gear and try rotating one wheel. If successful, then the fun begins, new fuel lines, vacuum hoses, send out injectors for testing/servicing etc.
Go for it! Glad you found the videos helpful...
This is great. I literally watched every video. You explain it so well as to how each part works. Now I just need to find an original FI system for my bus so I get junk the carb set up!
Thanks so much!
Just a wonderful series of videos. Great work, Ian!
Thanks so much!
Looking good man! 😎
Thanks 👍 Really enjoying what you're doing too. And it seems we have a soft spot for similar cars. Would be fun to collab. Hit me up @karrscars on insta or @iankarr on FB!
Thanks 👍 Really enjoying what you're doing too. And it seems we have a soft spot for similar cars. Would be fun to collab. Hit me up @karrscars on insta or @iankarr on FB!
Awesome video! I got 2 scoops of motivation today to continue working in my 914; I learned that I work with someone who owns a 914 and getting to watch this video. Thank you. 😊
Right on!
Ian: Congrats on getting the car running! There is always something a person fails to connect or mis-connects on that first start up.
Thanks. Apparently so ;)
Congrats on getting her fired up! 👍
Thanks 👍
This helps encouraging me along.......thank you Ian!
Glad to hear it!
I don't have a 914 yet. Been on my bucket list for years. I do have a few type 4 engine Vw buses. This motor build series was fantastic. Very detailed and very good video shots as well. Makes me want to upgrade my 2.0 into a more powerful engine. 😊
Glad you enjoyed! Good luck with your build!
Awesome! Your content keeps me motivated as I continue restoration on my 914. Thank you for your great videos, they have been extremely helpful!
Glad to hear it!
Great UA-cam channel . Congratulations on restoring your 914 . The 914 engine is it similar to the VW type 2 bay bus ? I have a 1979 bay window bus with a 2.0 fuel injection engine with a automatic transmission. And is going to need rebuilt . Do you know if they are similar? And are the part compatibles ? Like the fuel injector & vacuum lines ?? Thanks for your time and great Chanel keep up the great work on UA-cam
thanks, Alexander. Glad you like the videos. Sorry, but I'm not very familiar with the type 2. I'd imagine there are some crossover parts. Good luck!
Cool, thanks for the resto plan that I will certainly use on my upcoming resto for my creamcicle!
Go for it!
Great job! Need more sound bits of engine running and exhaust! Thanks for the video! Cant wait for driving footage!
Thanks! Yep, driving footage on its way...
Gr8 job, Ian. Wished my project ('HOWARD') was moving forward - hey, that rhymed - lol
The journey is 90% of the fun!
Congratulations Ian! It’s a great feeling!
It really is!
Good job Ian. The best thing to do before the first start up (or after a long rest period) is to crank the engine without spark plugs, in this manner all the bushings reach immediately the best lubrification without effort, without friction.
Yep. I did that. I forgot to mention in the video!
Brilliant Ian, that feeling when it's just spinning and no life isn't great but at least no crunching or knocking noises 😀 you probably helped the lube build up pressure before into life 👍
Looks great in the light
Right! I also forgot to mention that I turned the motor over with the plugs out and coil disconnected while in the garage to build pressure.
This has been a great series!iv a 914 engine i installed ina street rail rhat sees the woods off road sometimes,with tire and wheel change, anyhow, installed hydraulic lifters, sodium exhaust valves,removed all the injection, installed dualweber 40s, port matched everything,huge oil cooler remote filter,still a low mileage engine ,also did pertronix ignition,hand made the ignition wire set to handle lightning. reworked and gusseted bug trans,big flywheel and clutch.2seater,im right around 1800 lbs,runs crazy,goes as fast as you dare,runs out of engine at 90 mph5500 rpm.
Ignition, distributor just clapped out, bearings failed 50 yesrs old,so im down. thanks for your efforts
Sounds awesome. Thanks for watching!
Thank you very much for sharing, thank you for the explanatory videos, I congratulate you for your passion for your dedication, thank you very much!!
Thanks, Joao!
Another great milestone video. My first start day is fast approaching. Idf throttle bodies, megasquirt, wasted spark.conversion . your videos and your advice always top notch. Glad to see another 914 back on the road. Can't wait to see some driving vids....
Thanks Andrew. Keep at it...you'll love that first start!
As always Ian you are a 914 rock star. Thanks for the great vids and always answering my questions . Rick
Any time
Awesome Video and total series Ian. So happy it lit and it sounds awesome. I will say I was thirsty for the how to set up the 1,2,3 distributor, nobody really has a good video on that that I have seen for a type 4 or even a 6. I'm hooked to these!!!
Thanks Rob. I have a 123-specific video coming soon. So much footage. So little time to edit!
Congrats! You should have had an old camera assistant on hand to make sure your footage was not lost LOL
Cheers
Indeed! We should have some garage time soon.
Early versions of the fuel hose diagram may have had the inlet and outlet of the fuel pressure regulator swapped. If you follow the diagram and find your fuel pressure is in the stratosphere, that's one thing to double check.
Thanks Dave!
I really wanted to see you set the 123 showing the green led lit. Did you just see it lit or move the dist to fully see it
That'll be a video of its own. Basically you rotate until the light just comes on to set static timing. Then you still have to use a timing light to adjust as you would any other dizzy.
@@IanKarr I'll give that a shot. I may be to far advanced
Ian,
I have enjoyed all your videos. I was curious if you were going to be posting a driving video with your thoughts on the performance of the car. I am in the process of tearing down my 2.0L and will be split the case tomorrow. I am considering the same modifications with an increase to 2257 and a mild WebCam 00472. I have not ordered those components yet until I have seen the condition of my internal components. Thank you again for all the great information. Steve
Hi steve. Glad you’re enjoying the videos. I’m actually working on a “final” bumblebee episode discussing how the car turned out. Stay tuned!
@@IanKarr thank you
The driving video is up :)
Oh, I forgot to ask: The D-jet trigger point connector has three connections. You only show two for the 1-2-3 trigger point connection. How does that get hooked up to the wiring harness? Does a ground connection get added or some such?
There's a diagram that comes with the 123 which shows which connectors on the harness those two wires go into. I think the third is a ground which may be supplied through the distributor itself. I plan on doing a 123 dizzy video soon on my green car...
Hi Ian, I love your videos. I also have a 914 1.7L. I wish I had your technical know-how. What is the displacement and how much hp does from the rebuild?
Thanks Don. I'm just an average mechanic working on above average cars ;). this new engine is a 2056. Not sure about the HP but I think it's in the range of 115
Ian, I'm' sorry I missed you at the Northeast gathering, I was looking forward to seeing your car. What made you choose to stick with FI instead of going with carbs?
Sorry I missed the fun as well! The cars are out in Utah and so am I:). I wanted to stick with FI because it’s a bumblebee and I wanted to keep it stock in as many ways as I reasonably could. Besides I’ve had carbed cars and found them to be more finicky…
Yes it will start.
:)
You’ll find your valve covers easier to get out if you flip the valve cover bales over so the bumps on the bales don’t interfere with the valve covers during removal, once the heater boxes are installed.
Thanks for the tip, Craig. I'm not sure exactly what you mean. Can you please clarify?
@@IanKarr - with the engine in the car the valve cover bales (or retainers) rest on the heater boxes when you’re trying to get the valve covers off.
The way they are now the bales will interfere with the vale covers as you try to remove them.
If you remove the bales from the cylinder heads and put them on the other way it will be much easier to remove the valve covers with the engine in the car.
@@craigewing3054 Sorry...still confused. Do you mean rotate the bales 180 degrees?
@@IanKarr - corrrectomundo! And thanks for all you do.
Hello Ian. Circling back with a question or two or three regarding your use of the Tangerine Racing Oil Pressure Relief insert. Did you maintain using it? Any advice regarding how to ensure installing correctly? And lastly, how is it performing for you now that the engine is running? Thank you in advance!
Hi Thomas. I'm still trying to determine if I'm going to keep that relief system in the car. As for installing, it pretty much only goes in one way. Don't forget a new crush washer. Enjoy!
@@IanKarr Thanks for you reply Ian. I'm close to starting my motor assembly. Amazing how many parts there are, especially the build-up (after the longblock)! At first I thought I would stay completely stock, including polishing the oil control and oil relief internal ports. I think that would help the piston not get stuck or hung-up. My oil relief port has indentations from the spring (likely, it got stuck in essentially one spot and over time small movement made the imprints of the spring coils). Can I ask you to please do a video solely on the oil relief and oil control system? I am sure there is a large part of the community that will benefit from the good, bad, and ugly. BTW: I did order one of the Tangerine Racing inserts so I might wind up trying and changing as I think you are. Your thoughts?
Thank you.
I’m subscribed but this is the first I’ve seen of your engine rebuild. Did you put a standard cam back in?
I put the 9590 in, since I wanted to keep D-Jet
Awesome!! I am still getting my body panels straightened out. Where did you obtain your widebody panels? Someone dented in every quarter panel somehow when they were moved the car with a forklift. Thank you for the video!!
Hi John. All of these panels were original to the car...except the rear deck lid. I got that from a generous 914world community member...
@@IanKarr I may just keep mine stock then. I was thinking of doing the 916 GT factory race car conversion.
@@IanKarr I am finding it kinda tough to match the thickness of the rear deck lid. I tried 18 gauge and it is way too thick and even 22 gauge sees too thick. What gauge is the rear deck lid made out of?
Ian,
Another great video! I noticed in the background your oil pressure sender and what looked like a hose from a grease gun. Ive heard some folks use the grease gun hoses to screw into the oil pressure idiot light port and reroute the oil pressure sender since it wont fit in the original hole in the tin.
Is that what you did on this?
Yes, but I quickly replaced it with a paintball gun hose. Just seems more robust.
Hi Ian - ive been following your engine build while undertaking my own first build from a /72 1.7L 914.. Im finally getting close to the end - engine tin all mocked up and fitting well - but I've realised that most of the rubber/seals that go on the tin are missing, cracked, etc - and need to be replaced - everything, ideally - my challenges is knowing what is missing and where to source the parts. Everything from the small grommets on the tin, to the alternator rubbers/sealing ring, HTC grommets.. and anything else that I probably dont yet even know is missing.
where would one go to get all those parts, have you any trusted suppliers?
Hi Ian. Great name btw. 914Rubber should have everything you need. Good luck with the build!
@@IanKarr thanks! I’ll check them out - much appreciated
Hi Ian, That's funny about your fuel pump miss wire, I did the same thing a couple weeks ago. My pump in my other car was very loud after I replaced it with a new Holly Weber pump and my car wouldn't start. Then I realized it was miss wired. Duh, I switched the +/- and it fired right up. By the way, how's the Bumble Bee car running? I'm doing the same thing you've been doing right now with another engine. I'm just starting to put together my engine after getting all the parts together and the tear down of the donor, it's a 1975 Type-4 2056 Build also. My case is a 1.8L, big bore 96mm pistons, 71mm stroke. Oh, mine has dual 40 Weber's, not Fuel Injection (The original engine had FI). Those 123 Distributors are kind of pricy. After a while, these engines can be a big money pit. I know you spared no expense for other items! :) As soon as I get my CAM from WEB-CAM (6 or more weeks to get it), I'm starting my build. They said I should get it just after July 4th. I need to go back and find your first video's to make sure I don't miss anything.
Hi Monte. Nice to know I'm not alone ;). All's running great thanks. Hoping to get a shakedown video out soon!
How has is held up after all the work? (I'm guessing it's in winter storage now). Did you ever total the $$ for this?
Hi Don. All's well...and there's another chapter to the story coming soon!
🙏👍
Thanks
Only 5% of me thought it was going to explode!
I'm confused doesn't the MFI require the original distributor?
No. The 123 is designed to run with DJet and has a special sensor
'morning Ian. Did you use the stock Anti-Flashback device (inputs from the vent on each Cylinder Head) or eliminate this device?
Hi Thomas...If you mean the decel valve, I'm looking for one to use...
@@IanKarr Thanks for the reply Ian. PLEASE share what you learn to us, regarding the Decal Valve you use, why selected? What you experienced? And, how you adjusted the one you decided to use? That will be a huge help.
Thank you Ian. Had been waiting for this one. Congrats on the start-up! Question: With the 123 Ignition Distributor, does it require either vacuum line(s) that would have attached to the Vacuum Canister and attach to the Throttle Body? If so, which one or are there both? An explanation will help me and others I'm sure. Thanks!
Yes, the final install on my car has a vacuum connection from the throttle body to the dizzy. I believe it's the advance. There's only one vac port on the dizzy. Of course the hose needs to be plugged when setting the timing...
Hi Ian.. thanks for you replies.. I have a really stupid question but how does one ensure the HT leads are correct / with firing order 1-4-3-2 but I’m unsure which is 1 on the distributor.. would it be correct to assume the rotor moves clockwise, so once 1 on the dizzy is known.. next lead should go to 4, then 3, then 2..? But which of the 4 options on the dizzy is 1’.. I m quite sure my engine is at TDC and the rotor is pointing to cylinder 1
yes, the rotor moves clockwise 1-4-3-2. Normally, when the engine is at TDC of #1, the rotor points to about 4 o'clock, if you were standing in front of the fan. Remember that on these engines, the flywheel makes two revolutions for the rotor to make one revolution, so the notch on the flywheel lines up with the split on the case when TDC and #1 and TDC of #3. So you need to look at the rotor to confirm you're at #1 (and / or remove the plug and verify that the #1 piston is at the top of the stroke.
@@IanKarr thanks! That’s very interesting and puzzling as my notch is lined up and the rotor is point to about 1-2oclock as you look at the engine.
I’m following a VW type 4 engine restoration manual and it seems to be correct. Perhaps there is a difference between VW type 4 and Porsche Type 4, though all I’ve read suggest they are the same bar the oil filler location and the internal oil baffle.
Really grateful for you input! Thank you.
More investigation required…
I might have to get a closer look at the cylinder position
Where did you get the new injection harness?
Jeff Bowlsby makes them. Works of art.
Relatively new to the 914 scene. Any recommendations for clubs or service in CT area?
There's a Northeast gathering in a few months. Join 914world.com for more details. Several of us teeners in the tri state area, but nothing super formal. Service wise, there's Gaswerks in Paramus NJ and GT Auto in Millwood NY.
Super. Thanks so much. Love your videos. They’ve been my “go to” for getting the car back on the road.
Where can i get the engine stand type four adapter or yoke?
This is where I got mine...
www.thesamba.com/vw//classifieds/detail.php?id=606308
How much a transmission for that tule will cost
Depending on where you get it from and the condition, a few hundred to a few thousand.
Any updates?
Yes. The car is running great and I’m working on the “finished” video
How expensive is it to do a rebuild of the engine? I am considering doing a rebuild similar to this one. @@IanKarr
Ian are you a teacher,if not you should be ,as I can understand
Thanks, Harry. I'm not a teacher, but I think I tortured a few in high school ;)
@@IanKarr yeah I think I tortured many teachers 😊