I want to cover a couple of things that I glossed over in the video. First of which my testing does not take into account dirt from driving. Like I mentioned last year your results with some of these products may be slightly better if the coatings are exposed to road dirt, which would make them more resilient. I want to test JUST the coatings with this. Adding dirt adds variables and can have an effect on the testing. Secondly, the motor oil and transmission fluid that I tested were fresh right out of the bottle. The oil that was tested was 10w-30 conventional Supertech from Walmart. The transmission fluid was Valvoline Dex/Merc. They were not used they were not acidic. Their performance as a vehicle undercoating is tied to dirt exposure in my opinion. The dirt helps hold the product on the surface of the metal. Links to the products featured in this video: Corrosion X:https: //amzn.to/3ayIlYD Corrosion X Aviation: amzn.to/2XZUVNZ Corrosion X HD: amzn.to/2yzMnma PB Blaster Corrosion Stop: amzn.to/3awV8dV WD-40 Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor: amzn.to/2zq0IlE Eastwood Heavy Duty Anti-Rust: amzn.to/2yFjyVi Woolwax: amzn.to/2VNMRwW T-9 Boesheild: amzn.to/3cHZO29 Protection First Class: amzn.to/3eL9ECh ACF-50: amzn.to/2XYknmN Waxoyl Hardwax: www.roversnorth.com/parts/rnw... Waxoyl Cavity Wax: www.roversnorth.com/parts/rnw... Crown 6007: amzn.to/2Y3NQvF Rust Check: Are you nuts? Haha DON'T BUY IT!!! No Drip Rustproofing: www.tptools.com/Dominion-Sure... NHOU: nhoilundercoating.com/ Lindseed Oil: amzn.to/2S57nZ0 Bar and Chain Oil: amzn.to/3cGDTs5 Petroleum Jelly: amzn.to/3cKVkYO Fluid Film: amzn.to/3eMSvIv Help support the channel buy using my Amazon links your cost is exactly the same using my links and I earn a percentage of each item sold. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
i feel like the last (and arguably most important) review would be test these products underneath a vehicle for a whole winter. Make a jig to bolt samples to your frame, spray different sections. Not sure, but that way you could replicate the dirt collection aspect of these products, and how that affects their performance. Me personally, I find the best results from undercoating vehicles come once they get that nice oil saturated dirt covering that acts like a protective membrane. Also, please test corrosion X, rated #1 by the Canadian military.
@@ontario-yota-1050 i thought about doing what you are suggesting, the problem is you can't guarantee each sample will get the same amount of road spray. If 1 or 2 samples get 2x as much road spray it's not an equal test.
So after watching both videos multiple times over the last 2 years it seems to me the ultimate answer is any cosmoline. Thank you so much for your HUGE time investment to bring this info to the community! Amazing how well you do your tests, anyone that complains is just ignorant and has no idea how much work you did to do this.
My experience on an older Highlander and newer Camry in upstate NY is the cosmoline works well on clean or very very little rust (very smooth) surfaces....don't even think about putting it on any rust that you can see from four feet away....use woolwax to slather and suffocate rust.
Thank you for this series! I know it’s a few years old but wanted to point out something for those just now seeing it. Aviation products are marketed for aluminum, which is the most common material used when building a fuselage. Aluminum is porous and absorbs anti-corrosion products; whereas steel is not and they simply float on top. Aviation products are also not designed to inhibit iron oxide AKA rust, they are formulated to inhibit aluminum oxides.
I'm leaning towards that as well. Kerosene or steam takes off cosmo like coatings like this. Would have been awesome to also see a 50/50 motor oil and grease and a 1/1/1 oil grease wax mix tested too. I'm betting the cosmo also does well over existing rust!
LOL, cooking oil. My father used to to paint that on his fencing as a wood preservative when they banned Creosote. That darn fence still hasn't rotted. Waxoyl has been used in the UK for years, and seems to work well. Good job btw.
My grandfather made my aunt coat the frame of her 1966 Tempest convertible with Vaseline every fall. That car was pristine when she stupidly sold it in 1987. It was Pearl Black with a red interior. Beautiful
Great video, thanks for all the time spent @Repair Geek. I'm surprised no one's done a ranking yet, so here goes. My number 1 is the 10:05 Berkebile PFC 2+2 because it is plastic and rubber safe and I plan on using it for everything around the house. PFC, 4:54 Fluid Film and 8:41 Woolwax are all lanolin based (oils from sheep fur/wool) and safe on plastic and rubber. Woolwax is the thickest and will cling the most, and Fluid Film may penetrate into crevices better, theoretically. The 2nd best group seems to be the cosmoline products, 5:02 CRC and 8:16 Eastwood Heavy Duty. Only 2nd because petroleum based and not safe for plastics and rubber seals. Then Sta-bil (from 1st video 6:13), 6:47 Corrosion X HD, 7:49 WD Longterm. All good but petroleum based and thinner viscosity. Honorable mentions: 11:14 Waxoyl (rubberized), 15:22 NHOU, 21:15 Vaseline.
I loved both parts - 1 & 2. But i loved the part where motor oil, transmission fluid and cable oil totally flamed out. Linseed oil was unexpected and I was impressed. I'll stick to cosmoline. If its good enough for WW1 rifles in a crate its good enough for me.
Woolwax on/in my chassis and fender wells . Fluid Film inside all doors, tailgate and pillar posts. I skip the undercarriage wash until end of summer. Apply the weekend before Thanksgiving. The best $50 I can spend in my pickup!
I wonder if a first coat with cosmoline (dries tacky and doesnt come off) followed by a second coat of the woolwax, how it would work. Might be a great combo.
@@johnspringer3951 I bought a2 gallon kit from Kellsport. It included the spray gun. I upgraded to the pro gun. I used the black on all the chassis (inside and out) I used the aerosol cans for inside the doors You will have some left over. Make sure, since it’s your first application, to go heavy. If you don’t have a compressor available, buy the aerosol cans by the case. You’ll use it, trust me.
The end all of undercoating comparison videos. Thanks for taking the time to do it. I’ve been using fluid film for a while but going to start using PFC on the undercarriage and FF in the door, rocker panels and body seams. PFC is very similar to FF except it does dry and get tacky rather than staying as wet as FF.
Great video! Thanks for being so thorough. Vaseline can be easily and quickly heated into liquid and then sprayed and dripped into crevices. And transmission fluid/motor oil same viscosity/ease of application.
Very nicely done presentation as in the part #1 and thank you for the effort. Getting the oils like B&C, ATF, Motor Oil etc. to work well requires another step to help them stay on the metal. And yes, the trick is to apply them to the undercarriage ,then take the vehicle down a dirt road and build up a layer of dirt. Doing this every year builds up layers of oil film that keeps water off the metal. Another technique is to heat the oil in a crock pot ,add paraffin ,then spray it on hot to the undercarriage. Believe me it works... Remember, the goal is to keep water off the metal. (Salt + Moisture + heat = corrosion) on steel. And yes, temperature like salt also affects the corrosion rate . Vaseline is nothing more than grease. Heat it up to liquify , then spray it on hot using a Schutz undercoat gun @ 40 - 80 psi.
One thing I do know about POR 15 is that if you painted it on the bare rusty piece you left out all winter it would stick properly. Thank you so much for taking the time to put this together and add all the links to the products. I’m subscribed as well.
Thanks for taking on this project!! I found your channel today and watched all the previous ones on undercoating. This isn’t the most exciting experiment but it provides a great info for automotive enthusiast like myself. I will be using fluid film twice a year.
Thank you so much for this video. As someone who lives in a tropical country where rain and floods are common. Cosmoline based products seems to be the answer.
You make an excellent point in your pinned comment. On new bare metal, there is nothing for some of the products to bite/adhere well to. If there were a slight layer of dust or dirt, the trans fluid or oil or other product would have absorbed into it and stayed on the surface longer to protect it. Along the same lines, the surface rust that does form will absorb the above named materials when you reapply it the following year which should stop any additional rust. So the surface rust with the absorbed trans/oil is now your undercoating. You wouldn’t use the better products that protected the surface (i.e. petroleum jelly) to help remove a rusted on bolt. You would use one of the thinner products to absorb/penetrate the rust to free the bolt. Most of us, especially me, would not be applying this to a new vehicle with clean metal. In the end, something is better than nothing.Great video, thank you 👍🏻
Im not a Krown apologist but I have my truck sprayed every year with it and it does grab dust and dirt and it does cause it to stick on pretty well. I'm pretty satisfied. In high splash areas though, it does come off. I wish someone in my area did Woolwax or NHOU application. I think it would do a much better job. I'm in Michigan and the Krown applicator in Lexington doesn't skimp on product but I tried a different Krown applicator last year and they left dry spots everywhere on the undercarriage. You have to check their work. Krown appears to do very well inside the panels where there is no splash. Awesome video. Thanks.
@don s I did eventually find a place in Lapeer that does NHOU and had my Acadia done. It seems pretty thick. I think it will do nicely. I'll have my truck done in the spring. Thanks for the reply.
Any reason you did not test "Corrosion Free"? Through independent testing of the Canadian military it was number one. I have used it for a couple years and I think it's the best of anything I've used including fluid film. It doesn't have odor like fluid film and seems to last longer.
Any coating for aviation is made lightweight/thin due to in aviation weight and balance is a critical issue and it's designed to get into nooks and crannies and is primarily used in intern areas of aluminum.
I live in New Hampshire - I have had my 2013 F150 (purchased new with 4 miles) sprayed with chainsaw oil by a local shop - 2x in 1st year, then once per year since then. It has 336,xxx miles - absolutely no rust. This shop has also sprayed my 2015 Expedition 2x in 1st year, then 1x per year since. Also my 2006 Dodge 2500, sprayed with chainsaw oil 2x during 2021 when I purchased used (body and frame was very, very clean southern truck). I even started spraying the entire frame of my flatbed trailer - the local shop can't do trailers. Although the trailer had some rust - at least it is holding together. Although the chainsaw bar oil does drip a bit for the first couple days, it provides an excellent barrier from water, road spray and I think it holds up very well in high spray/ wash areas. Especially in wheel wells/ inner fenders. I think the dust/ dirt from the highways and dirt roads help hold the oil in place over time. And very good bang for the buck at $12/ gallon +/- Thanks again for your videos - I recommend your video to many, many people here in in the Northeast. Great comparisons and keep up the great work!!
Thank u soooo much for using that Crown product i requested! Ive been waiting for this video, which seems like years lol. Ive only seen 1 person ever talk bout it, and i knew nothing. Thanks for trying it
Great Job !! But you have mised one. Please test Corrosion Free Rust Cure 3000. Rated by Canadian Army report as number one. It is supposed to be the best ?
There is a test like this on another channel and it won, I am getting it done on my rig this year (from a car wash / accessories place, NOT crappy tire!)
@@ontario-yota-1050 I had my rig sprayed by that place 2 weeks ago, doesn't drip, doesn't stink and appears to be a good centimeter thick all over the frame, lower doors, gate, hood etc, I paid for the top package. Had Krown done on my other car last winter and it all drips off, for a week.
I have used a tar based product for years. They make a tar product that is used as concrete basement coating under grade. It hardens after a few weeks. I blend the basement coating 50/50 with used motor oil. The oil part soaks in and goes away after a month leaving the hard basement coating. I am in the process of switching over to fluid film but for the exposed areas at the bottom, I will continue to use my old mixture.
I think the lanolin based products like Fluid Film and Woolwax bonds at the molecular level even when you think it washes completely off. It still protects a bit more even if hit with a pressure washer. I would use Fluid Film to penetrate inside seams and Woolwax at the wheel wells after you apply the former.
I'm using fluid film to protect my tools from rusting, it works really well! And it's non-toxic, which is important for handtools that we are touching with bare hands all the time.
We are planning on moving from the desert to the New England area and I was just looking at a can on T-9 I use on various things and wondered if it would make a decent undercoating. Thanks for doing these types of videos. I'll be treating our vehicles with CRC before we leave then every year after. Thanks again!
Have you ever looked into Corrosion FREE rust cure formula 3000? In reviews it seems similar to fluid film but supposed to cling a little better. Can't find the Blaster Surface Shield in stock at any Home Depot's near me. Suppose I should just fluid film this year.
This is so interesting, I have been using the waste oil out of my truck (Rotella T-4) for over 10 years and my truck is spotless in Northern PA. I pressure wash the underside, apply with undercoating gun, drive down a gravel road and then I am set for the rough winters. I was very surprised that your engine oil performed so poorly.
I have used petroleum jelly many years ago - heated it up so it flowed easier and with the right sort of spray equipment, you can get it to flow. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
Great informative content! Surprised that linseed oil did not work better. I have used it to freeze and put a halt to some very active rust spots in my truck. It stays on it really well, you can see the yellowish film years after applying, rust never progresses where treated. Nothing that I apply it to looks anything like the sample steel strips you have, maybe it sticks much better to old rusty, half painted and dirty steel.
I have to hand it to you on terrific job. That’s what I call a thorough review between last year and this year you covered it pretty well. Kudos to you keep it up. Here is an after thought on one last product, no need to test it. Believe me when I say that I understand it will never stop. It's like a bottomless pit of never ending products, but if you have heard of "3M Cavity wax" I would very much appreciate you take on it, and if you haven't no worries. Once again thanks for those great comparison reviews.
hey boss love watching these having cars and plows in the rust belt this actually helps us a ton and save a ton of money i use the new pb rust barrier on the stuff worth keeping on the plows we use the bar oil cut with used diesel oil and just apply it evry time its on the lift so quantity over quality! keep up the great content!
Great analysis - much appreciated. However, the only local shop that offers rust service in the area uses Noxudol products in multistep process: scrape/grind; rust eliminator, a tannic acid-based chemical similar to POR 15; cavity wax for inside frame and such; and finally Noxudol undercoat for everything that doesn't move or get hot. From my understanding, this undercoating is not a 'rubberized' coating, but is a waxy anti-corrosive coating. Does anyone have experience with the Noxudol lineup?
Hmmm....'might be a West Coast "thing" but here on the central coast of Oregon, LPS 3 is what I've used for 30 of the 40+ years I've lived within 1/2 miles of the coast. That said, I appreciate the breath of your analysis and the results of your newest testing, the product from "the Blaster People". LPS three is terribly expensive (IMO) per aerosol can but does advertise similar attributes to the Blaster product. FWIW, WD-40 was never intended to "prevent" corrosion but rather was intended to displace water (WD=water displacing) in it's application. Thanks for the clear cut, effective presentation.
As soon as you said medicine cabinet I knew was petroleum jelly. I have used it on mag wheels and chrome exhaust tips in winter time to keep from rusting and use similar to Dielectric grease too.
If you will be doing any additional testing of overlooked products I second the nomination of Corrosion Free Rust Cure 3000. It supposedly has no adverse effects on rubber.
"don;t ask any questions..." Had me laughing. As a Canadian, many years ago a Rust Check dealer suggested that over rusty exterior metal, Vaseline was the best product.
on vegetable oil or wool wax, one thing we heard is if your in an area with bears, youll attract one whose nice long nails will be raking your paint looking for the source ...
This was a great wrap up to all the testing you’ve done. This video and previous. You’ve tested so many products. Thank you for your hard work. Hats off to you. Side note. Your personal choice of trying Vaseline was genius. I guessed it right away. Definitely would be a pain to apply though. “Honey I’m going out to the garage with my Vaseline. I’ll be back in....well, don’t wait up for me”
There is a product I’d like to see tested “ strike hold” it was and is apparently used in the U.S. military as a gun lube and to prevent rust on military vehicles. It’s supposed give all the benefits of an undercoat but leave no residue behind so dirt etc won’t stick to the surface. And it’s supposed to creep like oil undercoating. I heard about it from an Australian 4wd UA-cam channel. It would be interesting to see the results
Thank you for doing these tests. I have some thoughts from this to share. - I think that the point of the aviation products is to creep into riveted seams in structures. 2024-T3 aircraft aluminum is a very strong but not very corrosion-resistant grade and comes clad with a more corrosion resistant grade to protect it (called "Alclad"). These riveted seams are likely the area most subject to compromised cladding and lack of protection by zinc chromate primer. Aircraft generally sit outside and are exposed to the elements and internal condensation but they aren't made from steel and aren't subject to salt spray. The products seem to be better suited to their specific application. - I've noticed that most vehicles that rust out do it from the seams and from inside out. Straight bare surfaces that are easy to protect will rust when the paint is compromised by gravel damage, but the rust that threatens the vehicle comes from those seams and inside. So a bit of "creep" might be somewhat important to consider. - I wonder if subjecting the tests to sand and gravel spray would make the tests more realistic. I wonder if a greasier product might "heal" over gravel damage by being pushed by road water spray, while being too thin would fail the pressure washer test. And if it's too hard it's just acting like paint. Maybe there's an optimum balance. Perhaps attaching the test apparatus under a vehicle could improve it. Whoever takes over the reins for these tests might consider that. - I understand that while salt accumulation and damage generally happens in winter, most of the corrosion actually happens subsequently under summer temperatures. - Due to your tests I went with CRC for the underside and had a commercial rustproofer do a "top side only" job inside my doors, rockers, fenders. I went CRC because of its drier finish. I believe that I will be more likely to perform better maintenance on my truck if it's not covered in grime like other products have caused on my previous vehicles. I do have a dilemma about whether it got into the spot-welded seams enough when I applied it, but I sprayed those areas really thick to encourage penetration before it had a chance to dry. I wonder if there's a thinner product that will get in there better without washing off the CRC. - Thanks again. Your tests were very helpful.
I live south of Canton, I own a body shop and have been using products from Petroleum Service Company in PA. Look up undercoating in a can. It’s a oil and wax based product. They have a few different products. I have been using them for over 5 years and it holds up great
I work at a big park campus and I like using Vaseline as lubricant on old metal carts and stuff that tends to sit in old damp sheds or get left out in whatever weather. Been using it on all my door hinges too without issue.
Used to go to a guy who made his own oil based blend, but he retired during COVID. Going to a place that uses NHOU this year. 2006 Dodge Ram 2500. No signs of rust going into 2022.
Note: There are various aviation CIC's, from ultra thin, to thick and tough film forming products. CorrosionX and its aviation counterpart are identical, designed to penetrate seams. It is used to lightly fog inside a wing for very light duty protection, where its thin nature can run down into areas where sheet metal overlap and water might accumulate. However, CX also makes a product called "MaxWax" and it is a tough product. Ardrox AV8 and AV30 are also fantastic products, capable of protecting for years.
What about heating the petroleum jelly and then spraying? I have done experiments with that on car dash treatment and I think it works better when applied as a liquid.
Just bought a case of CRC marine coating for my truck based on your results. Little expensive but impressed me. Thanks for sharing your results with us.
I'm a bit late to the party here. A local guy did an experiment at a University (Waterloo) and tried many oils, back in the 1980s. He used petroleum jelly like Vaseline in the 5 gallon pails and heated it up. It worked well on my cars but they were very messy when doing repairs later. He went to no drips and other oils later on. According to your results, I will redo my doors again and just use the Rust Check for oiling hinges. Maybe get a few spray cans of CRC for inside the doors, and use vegetable oil for the under side when I do it myself. (not always) The brake and fuel lines seem to be the biggest problem for me. Body panels are very good with conventional less drip/no drips on my 15 year old cars. I would still like to thank you for your effort.
Great Job! I just had three vehicles done with Rust Check. They are now in the process of applying it for a second time to all three vehicles since I was not impressed. They claim to apply three different applications. The thinner version which they say creeps to where it needs to go inside panels and doors. Then there is the clear version that is supposed to be approximately the same viscosity as Fluid Film. And they offer the black version which I was told has the same viscosity and protection as the clear with a black colorant added. They without a doubt applied their thinner version (meant for inside doors and panels) to my vehicle frames and general undercarriage areas. And guess what? It was so loose and high in solvents that it totally loosened up and virtually dissolved my beautiful built-up layer of fluid film that was doing a great job protecting my vehicles. Was this intentional? I would prefer not to go there, but it leaves one to wonder. This is what I know; Once the fluid film is well built up and allowed to have sand and dust to imbed itself into it it does not have to be applied every year. That's a fact because I have done it! The whole Rust Check angle is to apply it so thinly that you have no choice but to have them apply it every year. While that may be job security for Rust Check Franchize owners, it can be quite a chunk of change annually for the unsuspecting consumer, especially if you have several vehicles. When I brought one of my three vehicles for a re-do I brought a piece of rusted sheet metal with me and asked them to spray a generous sample of all three of the products they offer. They sprayed a generous swath of their black, clear, and liquidy product they spray indoors and panels. The liquidy high solvent product dripped down the side of the metal while the clear and black spray held its own. It became crystal clear to me that the high solvent product was used to spray over my beautiful established layer of fluid film which essentially was diluted and compromised its effectiveness. And guess what? I forgot that rusty panel in the back of my truck and went to remove it today after two days of rain. What do you think I discovered? The thin product was virtually washed off, the clear swath was severely compromised, and the black rust check broke up and the protection crumbled. Rust Check is snake oil for vehicles...
I get where you're coming from as far as protecting bare metal, new or prepped but there are products that work for surface rusted metals such as Rust Mort or Rust Kutter with acid that chemically reacts with the Rust and makes it a solid black coating which could then be tested on the telephone pole to see if it holds up, gets more Rusty or continues to rust underneath. Just a thought and thanks for your informative videos.
I’ve been thinking of a way to test already rusted metal, I think a good test would be to take these pieces of angle iron, get them equally super rusty with some corrosion solution that you don’t remove, then hang some weights on them, preferably very heavy, coat them and see which ones fail first. That would be a great real world test that would test the ability of these products to penetrate and actually protect already rusted metal, as opposed to seal moisture or otherwise allow the rust to continue under the coating. Great video though, definitely very useful info!
To add, could cut them lengthwise and get a much smaller weaker piece, and also spray them intermittently with the corrosion solution, something like vinegar and salt or whatever is going to work the fastest.
Hey man, I think this video is really great. You did an amazing job! I do have a point of improvement and that is the conclusion. I would really like you to show at least the best performing products at the end, because going back through all the products is really tedious as a viewer. Especially if I want to come back later in order to actually order something I am not going to want to re watch all 24 minutes again. Having a litle conclusion at the end with your pick and the best x products would make it all a lot easier.
Great video and the detailed research was quite telling....not biased opinions you'll see from the manufacturers of the products! Keep your research going...it makes all of us better consumers and stewards of earth resources!
Well done. There are so many variables that you can control for. Some States use brine or brine and salt. There’s humidity and the variances of each individual vehicle. I’ve learned a lot and consider your testing as fair. I have been able to narrow the field down. And you have a new sub.
Fastenall has a spray that turns the red oxide rust into black oxide which is essentially bluing the steel.. it also dries to a protective coating to keep oxygen out. So there is products that are meant for stopping rust in its tracks, and can be seen in a before and after segment.
Addison, I looked at a number of older used Rangers (in Massachusetts). They were all good looking on the outside. Underneath I found all of them had rust issues in the foreward underside of the bed near the cab. That may be due to the bed liner that is open on the end by the cab allowing water to run below. Another common issue was the back body connector arm to the frame. Most were rusted and a few not connected to the frame. The rusted beds put me off buying a Ranger. Maybe you are in an area with less road salt and your bed in excellent shape.
@@trouts4444 Hi David, thanks for looking out! I'm in Canada so we deal with some pretty heavy salt for about half the year. Other than the back bumper there wasn't really any rust on the truck at all (less some very very minor surface rust which is inevitable here). Its my first vehicle and I got a crazy good deal on it. I just had to replace the e-brake and left cat converter which I learned from youtube and did for cheap. Its been amazing so far, I LOVE the look and feel of the old 2-3 generation rangers. 🙂
@@addisonm4690 Rangers are nice looking trucks and a nice size which would have been more what I wanted. Your area may be a lot colder so you don't see as many sloppy days with melted liquid salt. Enjoy the truck.
I wondered about heating the vasoline, too. But like you pointed out in a comment, it wouldn't be efficient. It looks like the cosmoline type products had some of the best results
Thanks for these videos! In my opinion, the cosmoline products look the best, because they work well and they don't wash off from water. But I don't have the equipment or expertise to spray my car myself. And I haven't see any professional shops in my area who offer a cosmoline undercoating. Nor have I seen anyone offering Fluid Film in my area. So for me, the question isn't, "What's the best?" but "What's the best product that someone else will apply for me?" Where I live, I've found the following options for professionally applied undercoating: rubberized, asphalt + wax (by Line-X), Krown, and NH (NH Wax and NH Oil). Out of all those, the NH Oil looks to be the best. The rubberized is a double-edged sword, because it will either work or else make the rust worse. And it looks like the Krown didn't work well. The NH Oil wasn't the best product here, but it was still far, far better than no coating at all. So I'm going to call that a winner for my own purposes. So thanks for this video.
I've add some luck with lithium grease on outer panels. It dries and hardens quite well to resist the elements. I didn't see any type of grease in the comparisons.
Watched both of your Videos tonight!Good Job and gives me a lot to consider since my Bronco II is 30 years and a daily driver.And I need something permanent like POR 15 or a Rust Proof Paint.Not worried about creeping I am going to Caulk all the Seems.I am good at that I used to shoot 30 tubes of Caulk a week in my Job on a Product that I built at my work.Thanks Again!!
I think what would be interesting is if you let the sheets of metal to rust, maybe prior to spraying you mark and take pictures of the rust and then spray it down with the products. I’m not saying let the whole piece rust but if they have small circles and spots so at least that way you can track it. This would be to test to see if the products mainly fluid film and wool wax actually effectively “stop” rust while the product is covering it
Awesome videos on undercoating, thanks a ton for testing so thoroughly so many products. Going to search your channel now on how to clean up rust before applying.
@RepairGeek can you please specify which type/brand of cooking oil you used as theres more than just 1 different type... REALLY liked your undercoating comparison vids along with Project Farms undercoating testing comparison as well... Being that you had the samples on a pole near the salt exposed plow trucks, it pretty much does the same effect as the salt simulation that Project Farm did as well, using a sodium carbonate/calcium carbonate, vinegar and hydrogen peroxide mix. The only other important thing that i think was missed here was a rock chipping simulation like Project Farm did... But im thinking that being the LPS-3 holds up to the pressure washer and stays on, and is tacky.... That maybe using Eastwoods black RUST ENCAPSULATOR over that in conjunction with its INTERNAL FRAME Coating inside the frame being its more thinner, finished with Eastwoods CHASSIS BLACK (Even though it's probably not necessary since they say the encapsulator can be basically used as a top coat and withstand UV light apparently)... Go with this combination, Or just put a bedliner spray/roll on over the LPS-3 In My opinion... Either way you go, doing this two-step combo will not only hold up to the salt spray and not washing off from the water sprayer, but also prevent rocks from penetrating into the LPS-3...
Great video like always! One product you haven't review is Rust bullet similar to POR-15. I painted my whole frame and any part i could reach with Rust Bullet and sprayed everything else with fluid film, my truck will never rust.
@@AndrewKellman Yes, always had great results with Rust Bullet just use gloves because this stuff wont come off easily. Rust bullet goes on silver but you can just spray paint it whatever color you want over it since it acts like a primer before it fully cures, then its hard as nails.
Waxoyl hardcoat is a one and done deal. You spray it on and it cures but it doesn’t fully dry. It’s designed to stay flexible but seal out the moisture. You just look it over once a year and add more to areas it thins out in. Rovers North America recommends it for restored land rovers which have an aluminum body but use a heavy gauge steel frame. I plan to do the underside of my 2022 Tacoma this fall before I buy out the lease. Sure I’ll cavity wax the inside of the doors but it really does best in the tailgate corners where Tacoma bodies tend to have their worst rust. Sprayed into crossmembers and boxed sections is where you’ll find it does best. Done correctly it gives your frame that gloss black new appearance and it’s unaffected by UV light or high pressure carwashes. End result? Your car will last long enough to get payed off and give you years of enjoyment with no car payment
The best coating I've for the underside of my truck is Cosmoline RP-342. It goes on wet, black, and hardens to a wax-like coating. I've used Fluid Film and Eastwood inner frame coating, both of which worked okay, but the Cosmoline is better.
So for those of us with trucks a few years old that already have an undercarriage with surface rust, it's fine to spray CRC or Fluid Film or Woolwax directly onto the rusted metal? No need to remove the rust or do any special prep?
Great job, very helpful . . . thank you! From both last year and this year's tests it seems like the cosmoline products like CRC and Amsoil HD MP might be among the best choices for rust protection. They seem to provide some of the best rust protection results and unlike some of the other top performers, after your high pressure water cleaning, they did not wash off so appear more durable. (Given the effort and mess to apply these undercoatings one would hope they would last). -Do you agree CRC and Amsoil HD MP are perhaps among the best in terms of rust protection and durability? -Do you anticipate any (toxic) cabin smell issues with either of these two products (CRC or Amsoil HD MP)? So many people swear by Krown and yet surprisingly their results did not appear that good. -From your testing, do you still prefer Fluid Film over CRC, Amsoil HD MP (and Krown)...if so, could you please share why (apart from requiring two coats)? Thank you very much for all your efforts in putting this very informative video together!
There are a few downsides to cosmoline that are not reflected in these videos. First the product dries so at a certain point it stops creeping. FF, NHOU, Woolwax etc stay wet so, they always creep and self heal. Cosmoline won't self heal but resists wash off better. Textured surfaces that are rusty will require multiple coats to provide adequate coverage because cosmoline goes on SO thin. So your results on a vehicle that is a few years old may be different. I dont use cosmoline because of my next reason. The main reason I don't spray cosmoline in my shop is, I cant remove the overspray haha. I don't want my walls, lift, bench, toolbox etc. covered in orange overspray that I cant remove. Hope that helps. ANYTHING you do will help. Your results may vary but you're definitely helping the situation.
My choice would be one of the cosmoline type products. It stays put, does not attract dirt, creeps into cracks and seals the surface. I do know the Amsoil MP is in a larger can than the others and can be purchased for less than you paid.
Cosmoline aka Amsoil does not creep. If you do not fully penetrate interior cavities on the first coat additional coats will just build up on top and do no good. A product that stays wet and constantly self heals and creeps is better than one that dries.
No it does creep. I have used Cosmoline. RP 342 FTW. And who gives a shit about self healing. Oil product sucks because it wears off and attracts dirt. Cosmoline is the best. I was in the navy and its what we used on so much stuff. It shits down rust and gets hard... i have seen 2 year comparisons and the rust is on shut down. Just a little touch up evety year if that. Or shoot boiled linseed oil over the cosmoline after and ITS BULLETPROOF. I know it works...
I used Rust Check from on my new at the time 1990 Chevy S10 Blazer until I sold it in 1999 for a new Lexus 1999 ES 350. There was no rust on the underneath of the Blazer and only had slight surface rust from the cheap Chevy paint cracking. ** You should know that Rust Check uses the thinner pink fluid like the one you tested inside all the body panels and a much thick black fluid for the underneath frame and floor.
I kinda like that CRC Marine. Seems to make the most sense to me regardless of 2nd application that’s recommended. I would do this once per Fall season and call it a day. Surface Shield and etc seem too messy.
After watching last years video and having way different results than you; I wanted to take some time to explain what I've seen and heard here in New England. As most know, we tend to have longer winters than some, and calcium choride is also being used to treat the roads... and it's a killer. What has worked out here is motor oil or a mixture of that, but the key is once it's applied is drive on dirt roads while it's still wet... it tends to bond with the oil and stay put. Sounds crazy I know, but it does a better job than most. As for vaseline, I've seen people use it, but they have tended to melt it down so it's a liquid. I forget what temperature they used or for how long, but some seemed to have pretty good luck with it being inside doors... not sure about underneath a vehicle. And Fluid Film out here simply does NOT work, Anyway, rust is truly a challenge for all of us, and hopefully overtime there will be a better and longer lasting product at some point.
Yeah was wondering that, here in Finland just about anything comes of during winter (Wich is basicly 8 months long). Some luck have been found using dinitrol over paint. That stuff is like raw oil or little more liquid than asphalt
Good video! As far as linseed oil goes I believe it should’ve been raw oil, not boiled in this test. The professional under coating shops that use linseed oil all use raw oil. The boiled oil doesn’t bond in the same way and doesn’t creep or migrate as well as the raw oil. The molecular structure is totally different. The old timers all use raw oil for it’s ability to bond (when cured) and really get into the metal pores and then maybe apply boiled oil as the finishing layer as it gets hard when it sets. Raw linseed oil also needs to cure in a dry and warm environment. But when it does it gets really tough and hard to wash of so all the overspray and drippings need to be cleaned off the car and surrounding materials before it cures. To only use boiled linseed oil on bare metal is like using some kind of thick chip resistant undercoating without any thin primer first. It doesn’t self heal, doesn’t creep and doesn’t create total incapsulation on its own. Drawbacks from raw linseed oil is if you let it cure on surfaces where you don’t want it it really hard to clean it off. And some people doesn’t like the smell that can linger for a couple of months. If done correctly it need to be checked and reapplied every other year or so. Unless it’s applied on top on some other thicker bitumen or wax based products which in some cases can peal off when exposed to raw linseed oil. Then you should do a second coating the following season. A bit surprised by the inferior performance of the CorrosionX products. I’ve seen other test where they smash all competition…and it’s pretty expensive stuff. The VCI baser CorrosionX MaxWax version would’ve been interesting since it supposed to be the best by far, said to leave an invisible surface, creeps in everywhere and stays forever…and is super expensive. Like 1500 dollars a gallon.
This is a really nice video. Professional and thorough. I noticed that you did not include RP- 342. I have seen several videos that have spoken very highly of this product. It seems to provide long term protection and adheres to the steel surface even in the harshest weather conditions.
He used RP-342 in his first video. CRC/RP/AmSoil MP are all re-branded Cosmoline and results are identical: no rust and didn’t come off with pressure washing.
I want to cover a couple of things that I glossed over in the video. First of which my testing does not take into account dirt from driving. Like I mentioned last year your results with some of these products may be slightly better if the coatings are exposed to road dirt, which would make them more resilient. I want to test JUST the coatings with this. Adding dirt adds variables and can have an effect on the testing. Secondly, the motor oil and transmission fluid that I tested were fresh right out of the bottle. The oil that was tested was 10w-30 conventional Supertech from Walmart. The transmission fluid was Valvoline Dex/Merc. They were not used they were not acidic. Their performance as a vehicle undercoating is tied to dirt exposure in my opinion. The dirt helps hold the product on the surface of the metal.
Links to the products featured in this video:
Corrosion X:https: //amzn.to/3ayIlYD
Corrosion X Aviation: amzn.to/2XZUVNZ
Corrosion X HD: amzn.to/2yzMnma
PB Blaster Corrosion Stop: amzn.to/3awV8dV
WD-40 Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor: amzn.to/2zq0IlE
Eastwood Heavy Duty Anti-Rust: amzn.to/2yFjyVi
Woolwax: amzn.to/2VNMRwW
T-9 Boesheild: amzn.to/3cHZO29
Protection First Class: amzn.to/3eL9ECh
ACF-50: amzn.to/2XYknmN
Waxoyl Hardwax: www.roversnorth.com/parts/rnw...
Waxoyl Cavity Wax: www.roversnorth.com/parts/rnw...
Crown 6007: amzn.to/2Y3NQvF
Rust Check: Are you nuts? Haha DON'T BUY IT!!!
No Drip Rustproofing: www.tptools.com/Dominion-Sure...
NHOU: nhoilundercoating.com/
Lindseed Oil: amzn.to/2S57nZ0
Bar and Chain Oil: amzn.to/3cGDTs5
Petroleum Jelly: amzn.to/3cKVkYO
Fluid Film: amzn.to/3eMSvIv
Help support the channel buy using my Amazon links
your cost is exactly the same using my links and I earn a percentage of each item sold.
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Great video 👍 I'm surprised noone suggested ceramic coating
Your right, but I think what we want to see is if the product will stop the rust from getting any worst / growing in size. 2:57
i feel like the last (and arguably most important) review would be test these products underneath a vehicle for a whole winter. Make a jig to bolt samples to your frame, spray different sections. Not sure, but that way you could replicate the dirt collection aspect of these products, and how that affects their performance. Me personally, I find the best results from undercoating vehicles come once they get that nice oil saturated dirt covering that acts like a protective membrane. Also, please test corrosion X, rated #1 by the Canadian military.
@@ontario-yota-1050 i thought about doing what you are suggesting, the problem is you can't guarantee each sample will get the same amount of road spray. If 1 or 2 samples get 2x as much road spray it's not an equal test.
Best I've found is good old hydraulic fluid you hardly ever see rusty hydraulics on dozier
So after watching both videos multiple times over the last 2 years it seems to me the ultimate answer is any cosmoline. Thank you so much for your HUGE time investment to bring this info to the community! Amazing how well you do your tests, anyone that complains is just ignorant and has no idea how much work you did to do this.
Cosmoline seems to be best in many cases, but unfortunatly it wont creep as well into cavities, folds and joints
@@quattroTorsen that’s when you would use fluid film and others like it
My experience on an older Highlander and newer Camry in upstate NY is the cosmoline works well on clean or very very little rust (very smooth) surfaces....don't even think about putting it on any rust that you can see from four feet away....use woolwax to slather and suffocate rust.
Fluid film doesn’t creep much. NHOU oil creeps further than anything I’ve ever used.
Was thinking the same thing, or maybe that Oxoyl hard wax stuff. Either of those IMO is the way to go.
Thank you for this series! I know it’s a few years old but wanted to point out something for those just now seeing it. Aviation products are marketed for aluminum, which is the most common material used when building a fuselage. Aluminum is porous and absorbs anti-corrosion products; whereas steel is not and they simply float on top. Aviation products are also not designed to inhibit iron oxide AKA rust, they are formulated to inhibit aluminum oxides.
That isn't what the comment section of the first video wanted to see...
I think I will be doing CRC Marine coating on my truck after seeing the results. Thanks for a thorough video.
I have to agree with you on the CRC. If they came out with wand kit like Fluid Film for the spray cans I would use it inside the frame.
I agree on CRC and I don’t want dirt buildup with wet products
I'm leaning towards that as well. Kerosene or steam takes off cosmo like coatings like this.
Would have been awesome to also see a 50/50 motor oil and grease and a 1/1/1 oil grease wax mix tested too.
I'm betting the cosmo also does well over existing rust!
How’s it working out for you now? Thinking I will do the same to my van
I was thinking LPS 3 for the same reason, but that it may creep in door frames a bit better.
LOL, cooking oil. My father used to to paint that on his fencing as a wood preservative when they banned Creosote. That darn fence still hasn't rotted. Waxoyl has been used in the UK for years, and seems to work well. Good job btw.
Lol right, shout out to petroleum jelly
What kind of cooking oil 🪔 ?
Being theres all different kinds
My grandfather made my aunt coat the frame of her 1966 Tempest convertible with Vaseline every fall. That car was pristine when she stupidly sold it in 1987. It was Pearl Black with a red interior. Beautiful
Great video, thanks for all the time spent @Repair Geek. I'm surprised no one's done a ranking yet, so here goes. My number 1 is the 10:05 Berkebile PFC 2+2 because it is plastic and rubber safe and I plan on using it for everything around the house. PFC, 4:54 Fluid Film and 8:41 Woolwax are all lanolin based (oils from sheep fur/wool) and safe on plastic and rubber. Woolwax is the thickest and will cling the most, and Fluid Film may penetrate into crevices better, theoretically.
The 2nd best group seems to be the cosmoline products, 5:02 CRC and 8:16 Eastwood Heavy Duty. Only 2nd because petroleum based and not safe for plastics and rubber seals.
Then Sta-bil (from 1st video 6:13), 6:47 Corrosion X HD, 7:49 WD Longterm. All good but petroleum based and thinner viscosity.
Honorable mentions: 11:14 Waxoyl (rubberized), 15:22 NHOU, 21:15 Vaseline.
Thanks brother for putting the list together!
You deserve as many likes as his video for this. Thank you.
-from the future
You got the ranking completely wrong. You put products with no rust and most affordability at the bottom. Rheedarted
Fluid film can cause rubber issues, i've seen ppl complain in forums about it. Best to avoid direct spray.
Excellent job covering multiple products.
Definitely some surprises
I cannot imagine the thought and time this video took to bring all together. Thanks
Some angle iron cut into short pieces, some product, time, and a pressure wash?
@@mikem5475 says the man who is too cheap to spend $15 on a tripod... Meanwhile I'm spending $400 on products for one video...
One of, if not the the best Youtbe tester,, boils all the snake oil BS down and give us straight facts on a gold plate,, thank you sir.
Don't tell project farm 😂
😅
Great comparison my friend! 👍 I know a lot of work went into this video! Good job!
I loved both parts - 1 & 2. But i loved the part where motor oil, transmission fluid and cable oil totally flamed out. Linseed oil was unexpected and I was impressed. I'll stick to cosmoline. If its good enough for WW1 rifles in a crate its good enough for me.
Woolwax on/in my chassis and fender wells . Fluid Film inside all doors, tailgate and pillar posts. I skip the undercarriage wash until end of summer. Apply the weekend before Thanksgiving. The best $50 I can spend in my pickup!
I wonder if a first coat with cosmoline (dries tacky and doesnt come off) followed by a second coat of the woolwax, how it would work. Might be a great combo.
Just A guy and his silver seems like a bit much, IMO. Besides the Woolwax protects the metal. With your plan it doesn’t get to the metal.
That’s pretty much how I do it.
How much do you buy for a extended cab pickup?
@@johnspringer3951 I bought a2 gallon kit from Kellsport. It included the spray gun. I upgraded to the pro gun.
I used the black on all the chassis (inside and out)
I used the aerosol cans for inside the doors
You will have some left over. Make sure, since it’s your first application, to go heavy.
If you don’t have a compressor available, buy the aerosol cans by the case. You’ll use it, trust me.
The end all of undercoating comparison videos. Thanks for taking the time to do it. I’ve been using fluid film for a while but going to start using PFC on the undercarriage and FF in the door, rocker panels and body seams. PFC is very similar to FF except it does dry and get tacky rather than staying as wet as FF.
He said it gets wet like FF. There is no difference..
Great video! Thanks for being so thorough. Vaseline can be easily and quickly heated into liquid and then sprayed and dripped into crevices. And transmission fluid/motor oil same viscosity/ease of application.
I used to use fluid film, but it's not cheap. Last few years I use spray cans of white lithium grease. It's very cheap and seems to last longer.
Very nicely done presentation as in the part #1 and thank you for the effort. Getting the oils like B&C, ATF, Motor Oil etc. to work well requires another step to help them stay on the metal. And yes, the trick is to apply them to the undercarriage ,then take the vehicle down a dirt road and build up a layer of dirt. Doing this every year builds up layers of oil film that keeps water off the metal. Another technique is to heat the oil in a crock pot ,add paraffin ,then spray it on hot to the undercarriage. Believe me it works... Remember, the goal is to keep water off the metal. (Salt + Moisture + heat = corrosion) on steel. And yes, temperature like salt also affects the corrosion rate . Vaseline is nothing more than grease. Heat it up to liquify , then spray it on hot using a Schutz undercoat gun @ 40 - 80 psi.
One thing I do know about POR 15 is that if you painted it on the bare rusty piece you left out all winter it would stick properly. Thank you so much for taking the time to put this together and add all the links to the products. I’m subscribed as well.
Thanks for taking on this project!! I found your channel today and watched all the previous ones on undercoating. This isn’t the most exciting experiment but it provides a great info for automotive enthusiast like myself.
I will be using fluid film twice a year.
Thank you so much for this video. As someone who lives in a tropical country where rain and floods are common. Cosmoline based products seems to be the answer.
You make an excellent point in your pinned comment. On new bare metal, there is nothing for some of the products to bite/adhere well to. If there were a slight layer of dust or dirt, the trans fluid or oil or other product would have absorbed into it and stayed on the surface longer to protect it. Along the same lines, the surface rust that does form will absorb the above named materials when you reapply it the following year which should stop any additional rust. So the surface rust with the absorbed trans/oil is now your undercoating. You wouldn’t use the better products that protected the surface (i.e. petroleum jelly) to help remove a rusted on bolt. You would use one of the thinner products to absorb/penetrate the rust to free the bolt. Most of us, especially me, would not be applying this to a new vehicle with clean metal. In the end, something is better than nothing.Great video, thank you 👍🏻
Great job. Lot of time and work involved. Appreciate very much. lots options but I'll probably grab some fluid film.
Im not a Krown apologist but I have my truck sprayed every year with it and it does grab dust and dirt and it does cause it to stick on pretty well. I'm pretty satisfied. In high splash areas though, it does come off. I wish someone in my area did Woolwax or NHOU application. I think it would do a much better job. I'm in Michigan and the Krown applicator in Lexington doesn't skimp on product but I tried a different Krown applicator last year and they left dry spots everywhere on the undercarriage. You have to check their work. Krown appears to do very well inside the panels where there is no splash.
Awesome video.
Thanks.
@don s
I did eventually find a place in Lapeer that does NHOU and had my Acadia done. It seems pretty thick. I think it will do nicely. I'll have my truck done in the spring.
Thanks for the reply.
Jcb uses waxoyl hard wax on their telehandler booms, and it lasts a very long time. It basically only comes off if rubbed off.
Any reason you did not test "Corrosion Free"? Through independent testing of the Canadian military it was number one. I have used it for a couple years and I think it's the best of anything I've used including fluid film. It doesn't have odor like fluid film and seems to last longer.
Literally nobody suggested it until I posted this video.
Any coating for aviation is made lightweight/thin due to in aviation weight and balance is a critical issue and it's designed to get into nooks and crannies and is primarily used in intern areas of aluminum.
I live in New Hampshire - I have had my 2013 F150 (purchased new with 4 miles) sprayed with chainsaw oil by a local shop - 2x in 1st year, then once per year since then. It has 336,xxx miles - absolutely no rust. This shop has also sprayed my 2015 Expedition 2x in 1st year, then 1x per year since. Also my 2006 Dodge 2500, sprayed with chainsaw oil 2x during 2021 when I purchased used (body and frame was very, very clean southern truck).
I even started spraying the entire frame of my flatbed trailer - the local shop can't do trailers. Although the trailer had some rust - at least it is holding together.
Although the chainsaw bar oil does drip a bit for the first couple days, it provides an excellent barrier from water, road spray and I think it holds up very well in high spray/ wash areas. Especially in wheel wells/ inner fenders.
I think the dust/ dirt from the highways and dirt roads help hold the oil in place over time.
And very good bang for the buck at $12/ gallon +/-
Thanks again for your videos - I recommend your video to many, many people here in in the Northeast.
Great comparisons and keep up the great work!!
This video should have more views
I think so too but, my opinion is a little biased haha.
Thank you for helping us to find the right product I learned a lot from you .
Thank u soooo much for using that Crown product i requested! Ive been waiting for this video, which seems like years lol. Ive only seen 1 person ever talk bout it, and i knew nothing. Thanks for trying it
Great Job !! But you have mised one. Please test Corrosion Free Rust Cure 3000. Rated by Canadian Army report as number one. It is supposed to be the best
?
There is a test like this on another channel and it won, I am getting it done on my rig this year (from a car wash / accessories place, NOT crappy tire!)
@@MaliciousSRT Popular Car Wash on The West Mall?
@@christopherk5909 BINGO! Went in last week for a wash and pulled up to the undercoat building "booked solid". Have to make an appt.
@@MaliciousSRT THIS!! Also, if buddy cant find some down in the states shoot me a message and ill ship you a can from canada @repair geek
@@ontario-yota-1050 I had my rig sprayed by that place 2 weeks ago, doesn't drip, doesn't stink and appears to be a good centimeter thick all over the frame, lower doors, gate, hood etc, I paid for the top package. Had Krown done on my other car last winter and it all drips off, for a week.
Maybe the aviation coatings are more geared for aluminum. It corrodes too.
I have used a tar based product for years. They make a tar product that is used as concrete basement coating under grade. It hardens after a few weeks. I blend the basement coating 50/50 with used motor oil. The oil part soaks in and goes away after a month leaving the hard basement coating. I am in the process of switching over to fluid film but for the exposed areas at the bottom, I will continue to use my old mixture.
Petroleum jelly, (similar to vaseline) can be melted and sprayed into inner panels. Does a great job.
I think the lanolin based products like Fluid Film and Woolwax bonds at the molecular level even when you think it washes completely off. It still protects a bit more even if hit with a pressure washer. I would use Fluid Film to penetrate inside seams and Woolwax at the wheel wells after you apply the former.
I'm using fluid film to protect my tools from rusting, it works really well! And it's non-toxic, which is important for handtools that we are touching with bare hands all the time.
Fantastic video! I know that I will be rewatching this video a few more times.
We are planning on moving from the desert to the New England area and I was just looking at a can on T-9 I use on various things and wondered if it would make a decent undercoating. Thanks for doing these types of videos. I'll be treating our vehicles with CRC before we leave then every year after. Thanks again!
I just ordered 4 cans of Amsoil. Their products have never let me down in 20 years.
Amsoil is crap. Waaaay over priced walmart oils repackaged with the amsoil name.
@@rickjames6948 What would possibly make you state this?
@@rickjames6948your ignorant
Dude I almost went out and got that krown rust proof shit ...so glad I saw ur video well done and thanks great video bud.
Have you ever looked into Corrosion FREE rust cure formula 3000? In reviews it seems similar to fluid film but supposed to cling a little better. Can't find the Blaster Surface Shield in stock at any Home Depot's near me. Suppose I should just fluid film this year.
Biggest surprise was cooking oil. It was better than many of the expensive commercial products.
Berkebile is located pretty close to me in Pennsylvania so it’s cool to see them out in the wild like this. Also cool to see them perform well!
This is so interesting, I have been using the waste oil out of my truck (Rotella T-4) for over 10 years and my truck is spotless in Northern PA. I pressure wash the underside, apply with undercoating gun, drive down a gravel road and then I am set for the rough winters. I was very surprised that your engine oil performed so poorly.
Unless you get dirt on the oil from driving down that gravel road it will all drip off. I believe that's what happened here. No dirt, no protection.
@@RepairGeek thanks for the reply and for running this experiment. I guess results can vary depending on the process of application
I have used petroleum jelly many years ago - heated it up so it flowed easier and with the right sort of spray equipment, you can get it to flow. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
Great informative content! Surprised that linseed oil did not work better. I have used it to freeze and put a halt to some very active rust spots in my truck. It stays on it really well, you can see the yellowish film years after applying, rust never progresses where treated. Nothing that I apply it to looks anything like the sample steel strips you have, maybe it sticks much better to old rusty, half painted and dirty steel.
I have to hand it to you on terrific job.
That’s what I call a thorough review between last year and this year you covered it pretty well.
Kudos to you keep it up.
Here is an after thought on one last product, no need to test it. Believe me when I say that I understand it will never stop.
It's like a bottomless pit of never ending products, but if you have heard of "3M Cavity wax" I would very much appreciate you take on it, and if you haven't no worries.
Once again thanks for those great comparison reviews.
hey boss love watching these having cars and plows in the rust belt this actually helps us a ton and save a ton of money i use the new pb rust barrier on the stuff worth keeping on the plows we use the bar oil cut with used diesel oil and just apply it evry time its on the lift so quantity over quality! keep up the great content!
Great analysis - much appreciated. However, the only local shop that offers rust service in the area uses Noxudol products in multistep process: scrape/grind; rust eliminator, a tannic acid-based chemical similar to POR 15; cavity wax for inside frame and such; and finally Noxudol undercoat for everything that doesn't move or get hot. From my understanding, this undercoating is not a 'rubberized' coating, but is a waxy anti-corrosive coating. Does anyone have experience with the Noxudol lineup?
Hmmm....'might be a West Coast "thing" but here on the central coast of Oregon, LPS 3 is what I've used for 30 of the 40+ years I've lived within 1/2 miles of the coast. That said, I appreciate the breath of your analysis and the results of your newest testing, the product from "the Blaster People". LPS three is terribly expensive (IMO) per aerosol can but does advertise similar attributes to the Blaster product. FWIW, WD-40 was never intended to "prevent" corrosion but rather was intended to displace water (WD=water displacing) in it's application. Thanks for the clear cut, effective presentation.
As soon as you said medicine cabinet I knew was petroleum jelly. I have used it on mag wheels and chrome exhaust tips in winter time to keep from rusting and use similar to Dielectric grease too.
Great series of videos! Looks like LPS 3 is a winner from the first video you did. Doesn't seem to cause damage to the rubber gaskets, etc too.
If you will be doing any additional testing of overlooked products I second the nomination of Corrosion Free Rust Cure 3000. It supposedly has no adverse effects on rubber.
"don;t ask any
questions..." Had me laughing. As a Canadian, many years ago a Rust Check dealer suggested that over rusty exterior metal, Vaseline was the best product.
on vegetable oil or wool wax, one thing we heard is if your in an area with bears, youll attract one whose nice long nails will be raking your paint looking for the source ...
I'm running to my closest NAPA auto parts and buying a Can CRC awesome video! Great work
This was a great wrap up to all the testing you’ve done. This video and previous. You’ve tested so many products. Thank you for your hard work. Hats off to you.
Side note. Your personal choice of trying Vaseline was genius. I guessed it right away. Definitely would be a pain to apply though.
“Honey I’m going out to the garage with my Vaseline. I’ll be back in....well, don’t wait up for me”
There is a product I’d like to see tested “ strike hold” it was and is apparently used in the U.S. military as a gun lube and to prevent rust on military vehicles. It’s supposed give all the benefits of an undercoat but leave no residue behind so dirt etc won’t stick to the surface. And it’s supposed to creep like oil undercoating. I heard about it from an Australian 4wd UA-cam channel. It would be interesting to see the results
Thank you for doing these tests. I have some thoughts from this to share.
- I think that the point of the aviation products is to creep into riveted seams in structures. 2024-T3 aircraft aluminum is a very strong but not very corrosion-resistant grade and comes clad with a more corrosion resistant grade to protect it (called "Alclad"). These riveted seams are likely the area most subject to compromised cladding and lack of protection by zinc chromate primer. Aircraft generally sit outside and are exposed to the elements and internal condensation but they aren't made from steel and aren't subject to salt spray. The products seem to be better suited to their specific application.
- I've noticed that most vehicles that rust out do it from the seams and from inside out. Straight bare surfaces that are easy to protect will rust when the paint is compromised by gravel damage, but the rust that threatens the vehicle comes from those seams and inside. So a bit of "creep" might be somewhat important to consider.
- I wonder if subjecting the tests to sand and gravel spray would make the tests more realistic. I wonder if a greasier product might "heal" over gravel damage by being pushed by road water spray, while being too thin would fail the pressure washer test. And if it's too hard it's just acting like paint. Maybe there's an optimum balance. Perhaps attaching the test apparatus under a vehicle could improve it. Whoever takes over the reins for these tests might consider that.
- I understand that while salt accumulation and damage generally happens in winter, most of the corrosion actually happens subsequently under summer temperatures.
- Due to your tests I went with CRC for the underside and had a commercial rustproofer do a "top side only" job inside my doors, rockers, fenders. I went CRC because of its drier finish. I believe that I will be more likely to perform better maintenance on my truck if it's not covered in grime like other products have caused on my previous vehicles. I do have a dilemma about whether it got into the spot-welded seams enough when I applied it, but I sprayed those areas really thick to encourage penetration before it had a chance to dry. I wonder if there's a thinner product that will get in there better without washing off the CRC.
- Thanks again. Your tests were very helpful.
I live south of Canton, I own a body shop and have been using products from Petroleum Service Company in PA. Look up undercoating in a can. It’s a oil and wax based product. They have a few different products. I have been using them for over 5 years and it holds up great
Sounds like the array of Tectyl products
Wow, what a great test! Really nice work and something very useful. Thanks for the informative series.
I work at a big park campus and I like using Vaseline as lubricant on old metal carts and stuff that tends to sit in old damp sheds or get left out in whatever weather. Been using it on all my door hinges too without issue.
Used to go to a guy who made his own oil based blend, but he retired during COVID. Going to a place that uses NHOU this year. 2006 Dodge Ram 2500. No signs of rust going into 2022.
Note: There are various aviation CIC's, from ultra thin, to thick and tough film forming products. CorrosionX and its aviation counterpart are identical, designed to penetrate seams. It is used to lightly fog inside a wing for very light duty protection, where its thin nature can run down into areas where sheet metal overlap and water might accumulate. However, CX also makes a product called "MaxWax" and it is a tough product. Ardrox AV8 and AV30 are also fantastic products, capable of protecting for years.
What about heating the petroleum jelly and then spraying? I have done experiments with that on car dash treatment and I think it works better when applied as a liquid.
Just bought a case of CRC marine coating for my truck based on your results. Little expensive but impressed me. Thanks for sharing your results with us.
I'm a bit late to the party here. A local guy did an experiment at a University (Waterloo) and tried many oils, back in the 1980s. He used petroleum jelly like Vaseline in the 5 gallon pails and heated it up. It worked well on my cars but they were very messy when doing repairs later. He went to no drips and other oils later on. According to your results, I will redo my doors again and just use the Rust Check for oiling hinges. Maybe get a few spray cans of CRC for inside the doors, and use vegetable oil for the under side when I do it myself. (not always) The brake and fuel lines seem to be the biggest problem for me. Body panels are very good with conventional less drip/no drips on my 15 year old cars. I would still like to thank you for your effort.
Great Job! I just had three vehicles done with Rust Check. They are now in the process of applying it for a second time to all three vehicles since I was not impressed. They claim to apply three different applications. The thinner version which they say creeps to where it needs to go inside panels and doors. Then there is the clear version that is supposed to be approximately the same viscosity as Fluid Film. And they offer the black version which I was told has the same viscosity and protection as the clear with a black colorant added.
They without a doubt applied their thinner version (meant for inside doors and panels) to my vehicle frames and general undercarriage areas. And guess what? It was so loose and high in solvents that it totally loosened up and virtually dissolved my beautiful built-up layer of fluid film that was doing a great job protecting my vehicles. Was this intentional? I would prefer not to go there, but it leaves one to wonder.
This is what I know; Once the fluid film is well built up and allowed to have sand and dust to imbed itself into it it does not have to be applied every year. That's a fact because I have done it! The whole Rust Check angle is to apply it so thinly that you have no choice but to have them apply it every year. While that may be job security for Rust Check Franchize owners, it can be quite a chunk of change annually for the unsuspecting consumer, especially if you have several vehicles.
When I brought one of my three vehicles for a re-do I brought a piece of rusted sheet metal with me and asked them to spray a generous sample of all three of the products they offer. They sprayed a generous swath of their black, clear, and liquidy product they spray indoors and panels. The liquidy high solvent product dripped down the side of the metal while the clear and black spray held its own.
It became crystal clear to me that the high solvent product was used to spray over my beautiful established layer of fluid film which essentially was diluted and compromised its effectiveness. And guess what? I forgot that rusty panel in the back of my truck and went to remove it today after two days of rain. What do you think I discovered? The thin product was virtually washed off, the clear swath was severely compromised, and the black rust check broke up and the protection crumbled. Rust Check is snake oil for vehicles...
I get where you're coming from as far as protecting bare metal, new or prepped but there are products that work for surface rusted metals such as Rust Mort or Rust Kutter with acid that chemically reacts with the Rust and makes it a solid black coating which could then be tested on the telephone pole to see if it holds up, gets more Rusty or continues to rust underneath.
Just a thought and thanks for your informative videos.
Thank you ! I live in a sloppy crazy soaking area with STUPID saturation of "salt brine" on roads ☹️
Mix vaseline with baby oil great for inside door skins great vid thanks 😁
I’ve had the same experience with rust check here in Canada. Do not use it for rust protection, it seems to actually make things rust worse
I’ve been thinking of a way to test already rusted metal, I think a good test would be to take these pieces of angle iron, get them equally super rusty with some corrosion solution that you don’t remove, then hang some weights on them, preferably very heavy, coat them and see which ones fail first. That would be a great real world test that would test the ability of these products to penetrate and actually protect already rusted metal, as opposed to seal moisture or otherwise allow the rust to continue under the coating.
Great video though, definitely very useful info!
To add, could cut them lengthwise and get a much smaller weaker piece, and also spray them intermittently with the corrosion solution, something like vinegar and salt or whatever is going to work the fastest.
Hey man, I think this video is really great. You did an amazing job! I do have a point of improvement and that is the conclusion. I would really like you to show at least the best performing products at the end, because going back through all the products is really tedious as a viewer. Especially if I want to come back later in order to actually order something I am not going to want to re watch all 24 minutes again. Having a litle conclusion at the end with your pick and the best x products would make it all a lot easier.
Great video and the detailed research was quite telling....not biased opinions you'll see from the manufacturers of the products! Keep your research going...it makes all of us better consumers and stewards of earth resources!
Well done. There are so many variables that you can control for. Some States use brine or brine and salt. There’s humidity and the variances of each individual vehicle. I’ve learned a lot and consider your testing as fair. I have been able to narrow the field down. And you have a new sub.
Fastenall has a spray that turns the red oxide rust into black oxide which is essentially bluing the steel.. it also dries to a protective coating to keep oxygen out. So there is products that are meant for stopping rust in its tracks, and can be seen in a before and after segment.
We are interested in it I have choose the CRC we shall see
I LOVE YOU FOR THIS
Just bought a 10 year old ranger in great shape and hope to keep it that way 🙂
Addison, I looked at a number of older used Rangers (in Massachusetts). They were all good looking on the outside. Underneath I found all of them had rust issues in the foreward underside of the bed near the cab. That may be due to the bed liner that is open on the end by the cab allowing water to run below. Another common issue was the back body connector arm to the frame. Most were rusted and a few not connected to the frame. The rusted beds put me off buying a Ranger. Maybe you are in an area with less road salt and your bed in excellent shape.
@@trouts4444 Hi David, thanks for looking out! I'm in Canada so we deal with some pretty heavy salt for about half the year. Other than the back bumper there wasn't really any rust on the truck at all (less some very very minor surface rust which is inevitable here).
Its my first vehicle and I got a crazy good deal on it. I just had to replace the e-brake and left cat converter which I learned from youtube and did for cheap. Its been amazing so far, I LOVE the look and feel of the old 2-3 generation rangers. 🙂
@@addisonm4690 Rangers are nice looking trucks and a nice size which would have been more what I wanted. Your area may be a lot colder so you don't see as many sloppy days with melted liquid salt. Enjoy the truck.
I wondered about heating the vasoline, too. But like you pointed out in a comment, it wouldn't be efficient.
It looks like the cosmoline type products had some of the best results
Thanks for these videos! In my opinion, the cosmoline products look the best, because they work well and they don't wash off from water.
But I don't have the equipment or expertise to spray my car myself. And I haven't see any professional shops in my area who offer a cosmoline undercoating. Nor have I seen anyone offering Fluid Film in my area. So for me, the question isn't, "What's the best?" but "What's the best product that someone else will apply for me?"
Where I live, I've found the following options for professionally applied undercoating: rubberized, asphalt + wax (by Line-X), Krown, and NH (NH Wax and NH Oil).
Out of all those, the NH Oil looks to be the best. The rubberized is a double-edged sword, because it will either work or else make the rust worse. And it looks like the Krown didn't work well. The NH Oil wasn't the best product here, but it was still far, far better than no coating at all. So I'm going to call that a winner for my own purposes.
So thanks for this video.
I've add some luck with lithium grease on outer panels. It dries and hardens quite well to resist the elements. I didn't see any type of grease in the comparisons.
Watched both of your Videos tonight!Good Job and gives me a lot to consider since my Bronco II is 30 years and a daily driver.And I need something permanent like POR 15 or a Rust Proof Paint.Not worried about creeping I am going to Caulk all the Seems.I am good at that I used to shoot 30 tubes of Caulk a week in my Job on a Product that I built at my work.Thanks Again!!
I think what would be interesting is if you let the sheets of metal to rust, maybe prior to spraying you mark and take pictures of the rust and then spray it down with the products. I’m not saying let the whole piece rust but if they have small circles and spots so at least that way you can track it. This would be to test to see if the products mainly fluid film and wool wax actually effectively “stop” rust while the product is covering it
This is what I would like to see also, spray the stuff on rusty surface to see how well it sticks, stays on, and prevents further rust.
Awesome videos on undercoating, thanks a ton for testing so thoroughly so many products. Going to search your channel now on how to clean up rust before applying.
These types of videos are the best! I really appreciate your work! Thumbs up!
Kleenex Flo Rustproofing ....comes in a gallon...tried it for many years. Seem to work great. Canada
@RepairGeek can you please specify which type/brand of cooking oil you used as theres more than just 1 different type...
REALLY liked your undercoating comparison vids along with Project Farms undercoating testing comparison as well... Being that you had the samples on a pole near the salt exposed plow trucks, it pretty much does the same effect as the salt simulation that Project Farm did as well, using a sodium carbonate/calcium carbonate, vinegar and hydrogen peroxide mix.
The only other important thing that i think was missed here was a rock chipping simulation like Project Farm did... But im thinking that being the LPS-3 holds up to the pressure washer and stays on, and is tacky.... That maybe using Eastwoods black RUST ENCAPSULATOR over that in conjunction with its INTERNAL FRAME Coating inside the frame being its more thinner, finished with Eastwoods CHASSIS BLACK (Even though it's probably not necessary since they say the encapsulator can be basically used as a top coat and withstand UV light apparently)... Go with this combination, Or just put a bedliner spray/roll on over the LPS-3 In My opinion...
Either way you go, doing this two-step combo will not only hold up to the salt spray and not washing off from the water sprayer, but also prevent rocks from penetrating into the LPS-3...
Great video like always! One product you haven't review is Rust bullet similar to POR-15. I painted my whole frame and any part i could reach with Rust Bullet and sprayed everything else with fluid film, my truck will never rust.
do like rust bullet better than POR-15? Trying to decide between the two.
@@AndrewKellman Yes, always had great results with Rust Bullet just use gloves because this stuff wont come off easily. Rust bullet goes on silver but you can just spray paint it whatever color you want over it since it acts like a primer before it fully cures, then its hard as nails.
@@712jimenez thanks for the info!
Waxoyl hardcoat is a one and done deal. You spray it on and it cures but it doesn’t fully dry. It’s designed to stay flexible but seal out the moisture. You just look it over once a year and add more to areas it thins out in. Rovers North America recommends it for restored land rovers which have an aluminum body but use a heavy gauge steel frame. I plan to do the underside of my 2022 Tacoma this fall before I buy out the lease. Sure I’ll cavity wax the inside of the doors but it really does best in the tailgate corners where Tacoma bodies tend to have their worst rust. Sprayed into crossmembers and boxed sections is where you’ll find it does best. Done correctly it gives your frame that gloss black new appearance and it’s unaffected by UV light or high pressure carwashes. End result? Your car will last long enough to get payed off and give you years of enjoyment with no car payment
My dad worked with a German in the 1970s who used to apply Vaseline on a VW bug and it never rusted.
The best coating I've for the underside of my truck is Cosmoline RP-342. It goes on wet, black, and hardens to a wax-like coating. I've used Fluid Film and Eastwood inner frame coating, both of which worked okay, but the Cosmoline is better.
So for those of us with trucks a few years old that already have an undercarriage with surface rust, it's fine to spray CRC or Fluid Film or Woolwax directly onto the rusted metal? No need to remove the rust or do any special prep?
I watched both parts of the video, you did a really good job and thank you for taking time to test, film edit and post this video.
Great job, very helpful . . . thank you!
From both last year and this year's tests it seems like the cosmoline products like CRC and Amsoil HD MP might be among the best choices for rust protection. They seem to provide some of the best rust protection results and unlike some of the other top performers, after your high pressure water cleaning, they did not wash off so appear more durable. (Given the effort and mess to apply these undercoatings one would hope they would last).
-Do you agree CRC and Amsoil HD MP are perhaps among the best in terms of rust protection and durability?
-Do you anticipate any (toxic) cabin smell issues with either of these two products (CRC or Amsoil HD MP)?
So many people swear by Krown and yet surprisingly their results did not appear that good.
-From your testing, do you still prefer Fluid Film over CRC, Amsoil HD MP (and Krown)...if so, could you please share why (apart from requiring two coats)?
Thank you very much for all your efforts in putting this very informative video together!
There are a few downsides to cosmoline that are not reflected in these videos.
First the product dries so at a certain point it stops creeping. FF, NHOU, Woolwax etc stay wet so, they always creep and self heal. Cosmoline won't self heal but resists wash off better.
Textured surfaces that are rusty will require multiple coats to provide adequate coverage because cosmoline goes on SO thin. So your results on a vehicle that is a few years old may be different. I dont use cosmoline because of my next reason.
The main reason I don't spray cosmoline in my shop is, I cant remove the overspray haha. I don't want my walls, lift, bench, toolbox etc. covered in orange overspray that I cant remove.
Hope that helps. ANYTHING you do will help. Your results may vary but you're definitely helping the situation.
My choice would be one of the cosmoline type products. It stays put, does not attract dirt, creeps into cracks and seals the surface. I do know the Amsoil MP is in a larger can than the others and can be purchased for less than you paid.
Cosmoline aka Amsoil does not creep. If you do not fully penetrate interior cavities on the first coat additional coats will just build up on top and do no good.
A product that stays wet and constantly self heals and creeps is better than one that dries.
No it does creep. I have used Cosmoline. RP 342 FTW. And who gives a shit about self healing. Oil product sucks because it wears off and attracts dirt. Cosmoline is the best. I was in the navy and its what we used on so much stuff. It shits down rust and gets hard... i have seen 2 year comparisons and the rust is on shut down. Just a little touch up evety year if that. Or shoot boiled linseed oil over the cosmoline after and ITS BULLETPROOF. I know it works...
I used Rust Check from on my new at the time 1990 Chevy S10 Blazer until I sold it in 1999 for a new Lexus 1999 ES 350. There was no rust on the underneath of the Blazer and only had slight surface rust from the cheap Chevy paint cracking. ** You should know that Rust Check uses the thinner pink fluid like the one you tested inside all the body panels and a much thick black fluid for the underneath frame and floor.
I kinda like that CRC Marine. Seems to make the most sense to me regardless of 2nd application that’s recommended. I would do this once per Fall season and call it a day. Surface Shield and etc seem too messy.
After watching last years video and having way different results than you; I wanted to take some time to explain what I've seen and heard here in New England. As most know, we tend to have longer winters than some, and calcium choride is also being used to treat the roads... and it's a killer. What has worked out here is motor oil or a mixture of that, but the key is once it's applied is drive on dirt roads while it's still wet... it tends to bond with the oil and stay put. Sounds crazy I know, but it does a better job than most. As for vaseline, I've seen people use it, but they have tended to melt it down so it's a liquid. I forget what temperature they used or for how long, but some seemed to have pretty good luck with it being inside doors... not sure about underneath a vehicle. And Fluid Film out here simply does NOT work, Anyway, rust is truly a challenge for all of us, and hopefully overtime there will be a better and longer lasting product at some point.
Yeah was wondering that, here in Finland just about anything comes of during winter (Wich is basicly 8 months long). Some luck have been found using dinitrol over paint. That stuff is like raw oil or little more liquid than asphalt
why would fluid film not work in a northern climate? i m thinking ff inside closed off areas and woolwax or crc on outside
Good video! As far as linseed oil goes I believe it should’ve been raw oil, not boiled in this test. The professional under coating shops that use linseed oil all use raw oil. The boiled oil doesn’t bond in the same way and doesn’t creep or migrate as well as the raw oil. The molecular structure is totally different. The old timers all use raw oil for it’s ability to bond (when cured) and really get into the metal pores and then maybe apply boiled oil as the finishing layer as it gets hard when it sets. Raw linseed oil also needs to cure in a dry and warm environment. But when it does it gets really tough and hard to wash of so all the overspray and drippings need to be cleaned off the car and surrounding materials before it cures.
To only use boiled linseed oil on bare metal is like using some kind of thick chip resistant undercoating without any thin primer first. It doesn’t self heal, doesn’t creep and doesn’t create total incapsulation on its own.
Drawbacks from raw linseed oil is if you let it cure on surfaces where you don’t want it it really hard to clean it off. And some people doesn’t like the smell that can linger for a couple of months. If done correctly it need to be checked and reapplied every other year or so. Unless it’s applied on top on some other thicker bitumen or wax based products which in some cases can peal off when exposed to raw linseed oil. Then you should do a second coating the following season.
A bit surprised by the inferior performance of the CorrosionX products. I’ve seen other test where they smash all competition…and it’s pretty expensive stuff. The VCI baser CorrosionX MaxWax version would’ve been interesting since it supposed to be the best by far, said to leave an invisible surface, creeps in everywhere and stays forever…and is super expensive. Like 1500 dollars a gallon.
This is a really nice video. Professional and thorough. I noticed that you did not include RP- 342. I have seen several videos that have spoken very highly of this product. It seems to provide long term protection and adheres to the steel surface even in the harshest weather conditions.
He used RP-342 in his first video. CRC/RP/AmSoil MP are all re-branded Cosmoline and results are identical: no rust and didn’t come off with pressure washing.