I Should've Fixed This When The Engine Was Out... Land Cruiser 80 Build Continues!!
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- Опубліковано 8 лип 2024
- Today we fix some odds and ends that I should've done while the engine was out of the Land Cruiser. The water pump was failing, and while we were there we replaced the fan clutch with the blue fan clutch, installed an aftermarket digital Koso water temp gauge, and ripped out the aftermarket alarm starter kill relay. We also fixed the floppy shaky mirrors!
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Parts Used In This Video!
Torque Wrench: amzn.to/3PWsbQZ
Wire Strippers: amzn.to/3rywXdd
Koso Gauge: amzn.to/3PYnLt6
Aisin Fan Clutch: amzn.to/44nttZS
Aisin Water Pump: amzn.to/3pKoUtx
Radiator Drain Plug: amzn.to/46ZLhfk
Drill Bit: amzn.to/3O9zYcV
1/8 BSP Tap: amzn.to/46ZL7EK
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#rmgarage #toyota #landcruiser #4wd #4x4 #fzj80 #fj80 #overland - Авто та транспорт
Awesome job on the mirror fix... you've just helped 99% of 80 Series owners!
Thanks man! And yeah these mirrors are a pain!
True
You got a diy video on this mirror fix? Thanks man!
@@motogp2375 I don't, sorry! Hopefully you can use this video and some others to piece together a similar fix.
I used a solve function lower bracket and a slee upper mirror tab. For the posts I used a bolt long enough to go through the post, ran the wiring through the post, and used a stover nut + washers to lock it down.
I filed down a groove/channel into the post to run the wires through.
@@RM_Garage no worries, thanks man!
Absolutely right said about temp readings from the dashboard meter. It does not rise until engine temp is about 115 C
Thanks ih8mud and it's community for theses fixes/mods
love your videos thanks for the PN on the captions.
Thanks!
I recommend the Block Drain upgrade Wits End Sells. Factory Toyota and allows you to put a hose on the drain to control the flow
Yep, my block has it!
While mine was down, I refreshed the entire cooling system, except for the fan blades and heater core. WP, T-stat, hoses, rad, fan clutch, heater valve, rear heater bypass, PHH and installed a mechanical water temp gauge (had one from a previous car). Your video reminded me that I didn't remove the elbow because of the alternator.
I have seen the same behavior in the stock temp gauge, even up to 195º as confirmed by the aftermarket gauge, it doesn't move.
Love the vids man
Amazing build.
I have 84 LC with a TVSS. Your video was helpful seeing how it worked
And also, my LX450 has the TVSS thing you're talking about and does the exact same thing if I dont press the fob or start it quick enough, just FYI. That is a 96 however. Great vid!
I have an Aussie GXL 80 which used to have the same 1FZ-FE, I used the same spot in the coolant line to put a switch for thermo fans, nothing installed there from factory.
Awesome stuff! nice work
Thanks Lee.
We have the same list! Last summer I added a side-mirror "hood" to each. Mirrors still move by power - but shake and wiggle are gone since there is almost no play left in the space around the mirror top. Water pump, modded clutch, fan blades, and fresh belts are "on deck." Now you've added a new temp sensor worm to my brain. Safe Travels.
Haha, the list never ends!
@@RM_Garage Happily!
Love your show
Nice job and very enjoyable to watch.
thanks!
A Scangauge plugged into your OBD2 port would give you a temp sensor reading from your stock sensor. I think Solvefunction builds a mount for it. I agree that OEM temp gauge is a glorified idiot light.
My truck is OBD1
@@RM_Garage I hadn't made it to the end of the vid yet. : )
u could just use a pipe joint adaptor with a 1/8 ntp already built in, all u have to do is just cut the radiator hose and sandwich the adaptor in the middle. it would save u time from taking of that coolant pipe , drilling and making new thread.
you can deactivate the alarm by using the ignition key and a key fob.
I'll have to try it!
If no one answered those pinkish splices you saw are part of the toyota alarm. Its simple to remove and you should do it.
Thanks!
En ese agujero que preguntas en el minuto 6:44 va una válvula bimetal, viene en motor 1fz-f a carburador, esa válvula se abre cuando el motor alcanza la temperatura normal de funcionamiento, y abre para que pase el vacío a la válvula de potencia del carburador
Interesting! Thank you!
Love the write up bro, your vids are keeping my 93 LC80 running that just hit the 325k mark. Question what tap wrench did you use reversible or standard? going to try to install the temp gauge this weekend.
Not really sure tbh, it was just a tap wrench that I had to borrow from my neighbor because I didn't have any with a large enough chuck. I almost did it with a normal wrench and didn't use a tap wrench lol
Where did he do a write up?
Dude this is bad ass..❤
Thanks Milt!!
We’re all very proud of you!!
I just got a new OEM mirror still available in some colors
I thought about it but didn't want to pay the money for it
What coolant do you use? Didn’t look like Toyota red coolant. Are you happy with it?
It's 50/50 green coolant and it works great. May switch it out in the future if I ever upgrade the radiator but honestly, it doesn't make a difference. I've used both, can't tell. The main difference is it's cheap and available in a pinch, my 2 cents.
Why not remove the EGR valve? Helps lower engine temps, mine runs a lot better.
Not something I’d show on UA-cam but something I’d consider.
Unrelated, but I replaced all of my hoses and radiator and water pump a while back, and noticed that whenever my truck warms up, there seems to be a popping or bubbling noise coming from that coolant elbow. Thoughts on what it could be? I feel like I have air in the system maybe. Its not suspension or drive train related. Other question for ya: If a hose is loose / not tightened properly, and air is entering or escaping, is that bad for the engine / vehicle? No coolant is leaking, headgasket is fine, checked the compression as well.
that does sound like air in the system, when refilling the coolant you should fill it up fully then keep adding some aswell as running the engine at 2000 rpm to get the water pump flowing high, you can also squeeze and pump the bottom rad hose to pump coolant through the engine, youll also need to have the heater on to fill up your heater core
I’m in Australia and mine doesn’t have the whole, it’s the same as yours
Someone replied and said it’s a port on carbureted models I guess?
I have an 80 with obd2 and an ultra gauge. What do you think is “running hot” for an 80? I know the AC cutoff is 226ish but I’m curious what other people’s 80’s driving temp range is and what they consider hot before the cutoff
Standard operating temp is between 180 - 210. Factory gauge doesn't start alerting you til after 210 so we can assume that may be the "hot" point.
You should be using Toyota red in that coolant system friend. The metallurgy of the blocks and castings demand it.
Pink or Red.....no green!
I assume you are referring to his coolant choices. I saw that as well and left a comment 👍🏻
@@user-zc6wd4wp9d I don’t know any other fluid that comes is those 3 colors. 😂
Get that green coolant out of that engine stat!!!
Only red or you will be popping a head gasket in 80-145k miles. I have owned 7 fj80s. The two that had blown head gaskets. Both had green coolant and were my lowest miles both under 135k miles. The others always had red coolant and never any issues. And all of them were well over 200k. Currently I have two 95s both with over 320k miles on original head gaskets. And I have always lived in the South. Currently in the true tropics of SWFL
There’s a reason certain coolants are specific to certain vehicles. And your 80 needs red👍🏻
I’ve used both. You use one or the other, never mix, and flush thoroughly if switching to one or the other. My reason for green is simple, it’s available. If I’m out wheeling and need coolant in a pinch, anyone is going to have green.
No dexcool or orange coolant, only green or red, no mixing, and you’re good. The head gasket on the 80s had a flaw that was later revised and every 80 with a replacement OEM head gasket has this revised gasket. I’d argue that it’s the gasket that’s the issue, not the coolant.
But I do appreciate the concern!
Awesome job BTW
The last one I bought to flip was in 2017. It was a triple locked 97 LX450 with 135k original owner. Who was literally a little old church lady. Had all her gospel tapes and church pictures in the glove box still. It was in near perfect condition other than a blown head gasket. You want to guess what coolant had been run it for years? Spoiler alert it was green.
I bought it from a Toyota dealer for $1500 out the door. Man I miss those days. Getting ready to sell one of two soon. Ones unlocked but has been fully rebuilt and runs and drives like new. The other is triple locked and I have done a lot to it. But still needs some love. Both are 95s White on tan-tough life choices 😂
You are going to be enjoying all that labor for many years to come. There are hundreds of thousands of miles left in it. I always tell people it’s not the miles on these-It’s the age. A 25 year old Cruiser with 80k on the odometer. Will still have dried up seals. And brittle connectors just like one with 500k.
You moved out of California?!
Yep!!
@@RM_Garage you sold your 4runner also? I remember you sold the truck...
What do you recommend for a charcoal canister? OEM no longer available. Thanks!