The Complete Guide to Climbing Belay Set Ups Part 4: Half Rope Belay Setups
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- The last of the series, looking at half rope setups.
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Thank you, thank you for sharing your knowledge
very clear as always
Thanks Jez
Have you explainer why you do indirect belay in most of your set ups? Seems less practical and versatile in case of an anchor with no ledge for instance.
Yeah I've done a video on why most of us Brits use indirect belays a lot of the time.
About 9:30:
My instinct says that it would be much simpler and safer to clove hitch into one point, create the big smiley with slack before clove hitching into the second one, and then make a knot on the big smile that becomes your master point. Then you don't have to take out so much slack and it's just as simple. Thoughts?
Where is the best place to ask questions regarding the ML scheme?
ask here if you want or message me via our website: www.jbmountainskills.co.uk
Shouldn't this be part 4 though? 😅
It was a test, you passed 👊
@@JBMountainSkills hahahahah!
With out of reach belays using the rope, how would you recommend block leading, when swapping with your partner?
there's no problem when swinging leads, just swap the rack and off you go. With block leading -better with some form of powerpoint/sling set up even if its a way back. Could swap ends but that's a more advanced technique requiring careful management
@@robstone8782 Good Thoughts on Block Lead options Rob! An alternative for rope Belay Setup that does not require un-tying (eek!):
The second clones* the leader's anchor ropes 'underneath' those of the leader, using a second set of carabiners matching the first.
With this checked, the rope/s flipped & the Leader placed on belay, the Leader recovers the "copied" ropework and gets on with the next pitch.
if the Clone is placed above for a Block Lead, tangles ensue! (crabs are doubled up on changeover to remove risk to both climbers)
The asterisk: * If the belay stance body location for Pitch two Second is different to that of Leader Pitch one;
The 'clone' will take this in to account and have different rope lengths and angles.
Check directionality of gear with this in mind, if it requires a new anchor to be safe; make it so!
It would be ace if JB could cover this in a vid to demo how not to generate a Reet Mucking Fuddle. Part 4? (or 5??) ;-j
Hope That Helps! :-j
Set up the rope PowerPoint as shown in the video. Tie into the PowerPoint via a leash. Belay partner up. They tie into PowerPoint via a leash. Both untie from the ends of the rope re flake and swap ends.