Just a quick note, where you used bodyfiller on the spots you over cut... unless you did something underneath that I can't see it'll eventually crack back out... and being on a hood it will be sooner than later, (heat, vibration, flex, slamming hood, sun). Spots like that SHOULD be welded, ground smooth, and maybe a tiny but of filler as needed. At a minimum a little polyester resin with some cloth for strength and structure to the bck side of it needs to be used. 40 years of custom paint and fab experience speaking. 😉😉
@@DigitalArtisan77 I was wincing watching the grinder try to make a 90% corner almost close to impossible without a drill. I wont overlook considerations while repairing my hernia without making sure the mirror required has a windshield wiper to wipe away any and hopefully all of the probable bleeding. #DremelWorld
You're wrong. The point is to make what you want. This is just way too cool. Good job. That little bit of over cut is easy to fix, and you run into such things doing costume work like that. Good job.
@@Smoovs1956 the FL5 is just so much more expensive, can't justify the cost for me personally, even though it's really nice. I got mine with a discount off the sticker price at the time.
Brilliant work, dude! Really cool project! 😃 I like more the kind of modifications Chip Foose does, but I also like muscle cars, so... But being able to do stuff like that yourself is amazing! Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊 And happy holidays!
A) the way the vents are oriented, they won't intake air. They'll be exhaust vents. Your engine will run cooler, but you probably won't get the HP gains you're looking for. 2) it'd be good to learn some surface modeling to get more smooth prints that follow the surface of the hood more closely and not effect the aerodynamics. Good work though, you're doing awesome stuff
There is an effect that causes air to roll near the base of the windshield, reversing direction and traveling partway back down the hood ,so it's entirely possible that you can have them facing the "wrong" direction but have coil air blow in. It's weird and counterintuitive, but that's why you see those cars with a big scoop that appears to be backwards from what most people expect.
The majority of ducting on cars, hoods, fenders, quarters, etc., are all designed to extract heat not push in air. Lower under hood temps can cause fairly significant increases in power.
If it has an intercooler it would be on the front, I doubt this modern car would have a carburettor. So these could only be for venting, not air intakes.
why scan when you could have used a ruler and a box, achieving your result. i thought your fins would follow the hood curves, not be on a straight plane.
TLDR: Yes but in this case not really. They do serve a purpose. Due to how thin, large, and flat the hood is, a small amount of structure is added for stiffening. Cutting too much out could make the hood collapse. However, due to the small amount that he cut through, this would probably just make the hood a bit more floppy when lifting it.
I missed the point of scanning the hood, other than to showcase the scanner. After removing the hood, powdering it, and scanning it, you essentially printed out a couple of generic vents and applied them to your hood without associating with any surface modeling or other purpose for the 3d scan. They didn't fit the aesthetic or lines of the hood.
And that vent will suck the air out to keep up with the speed of air flowing above the car's bonut you have to place them in a way that forces air in to increase the pressure and therefore increasing the output power of the engine
3d printing is far from reaching the mass DIY folks in terms of price and time. 3d scanner ( too high price for a good one 10k+), good PC able to run software for this type of work(3k+), learning at least the basics (1-2 months), 3d printer (the bigger the better and the price jumps a lot 3k+) all of this still need bodywork since the end result from it is not even close and the time of fixing errors and adjusting... The time spent in waiting, etc for me it's not worth it. I prefer using cardboard, foam, clay, and other materials and working directly on the mold. It's good that tech is coming close, but it is still too far for someone wanting to create 1 part like bumper, fender, or wing. For mass production sure all hands down investing but for DIY... nah (personal opinion ofc) thanks for the review !
@@rcman000 The optimal operating temperature for a gasoline engine is from 90 to 100-110 degrees, for a diesel engine it is 80-90. The possibility of melting cannot be ruled out.
@VitaliySunny ita the temp of the engine block, go for a drive and tell me if you can touch the hood because if the hood will tego to 90° you get burned
Miraco owner here. You have a guitar on the wall and show 3d scanning of frameworks of mobility,
subscribed.
Cool project! I am doing similar stuff. I scanned my 1972 camaro with my phone and meshroom and am currently modelling a new dashboard.
Just a quick note, where you used bodyfiller on the spots you over cut... unless you did something underneath that I can't see it'll eventually crack back out... and being on a hood it will be sooner than later, (heat, vibration, flex, slamming hood, sun). Spots like that SHOULD be welded, ground smooth, and maybe a tiny but of filler as needed. At a minimum a little polyester resin with some cloth for strength and structure to the bck side of it needs to be used. 40 years of custom paint and fab experience speaking. 😉😉
Or just drill the corners first before cutting to radius corners and remove any stress.
@@DigitalArtisan77 I was wincing watching the grinder try to make a 90% corner almost close to impossible without a drill. I wont overlook considerations while repairing my hernia without making sure the mirror required has a windshield wiper to wipe away any and hopefully all of the probable bleeding.
#DremelWorld
You're wrong. The point is to make what you want. This is just way too cool. Good job. That little bit of over cut is easy to fix, and you run into such things doing costume work like that. Good job.
Ah, a Honda guy! I have an FK8 since close to 5 years, love it!
👍💪✌
@@Smoovs1956 the FL5 is just so much more expensive, can't justify the cost for me personally, even though it's really nice. I got mine with a discount off the sticker price at the time.
@@Smoovs1956 hope that you get the FL5, personally I am not a BMW fan. Good luck with your purchase.
Brilliant work, dude! Really cool project! 😃
I like more the kind of modifications Chip Foose does, but I also like muscle cars, so... But being able to do stuff like that yourself is amazing!
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
And happy holidays!
I inherited not 1 or 2, but 3 accordions. My dad would approve of the soundtrack here.
Cool! You did a great job.
Very cool. Very similar to what I like doing with 3D printing.
I am doing custom fenders and quarters on my 78 AMC Concord, and this tool would be priceless!
Great job ! I'll suggest you to cut the nozzle of the silicon gun with a razor blade (normally to 45° or 90°) to make it work properly
A) the way the vents are oriented, they won't intake air. They'll be exhaust vents. Your engine will run cooler, but you probably won't get the HP gains you're looking for.
2) it'd be good to learn some surface modeling to get more smooth prints that follow the surface of the hood more closely and not effect the aerodynamics.
Good work though, you're doing awesome stuff
There is an effect that causes air to roll near the base of the windshield, reversing direction and traveling partway back down the hood ,so it's entirely possible that you can have them facing the "wrong" direction but have coil air blow in. It's weird and counterintuitive, but that's why you see those cars with a big scoop that appears to be backwards from what most people expect.
The majority of ducting on cars, hoods, fenders, quarters, etc., are all designed to extract heat not push in air. Lower under hood temps can cause fairly significant increases in power.
If it has an intercooler it would be on the front, I doubt this modern car would have a carburettor. So these could only be for venting, not air intakes.
@@davidhashimoto665 The car doesn't have a turbo or supercharger, so no intercooler on this one
At $1600USD, dunno how affordable it is for many of us hobbyists..
Most would be going for entry point scanners $300-$600
why scan when you could have used a ruler and a box, achieving your result. i thought your fins would follow the hood curves, not be on a straight plane.
Nice type R!
I love the Idea
When it rains, where is that water going to land in the engine bay through those vents?
Oh nice, this is what I did to my car a few months ago. Guess I'm not all that unique anymore...lol, but at least mine still looks ok.
does that crossbar on the hood that you sawed through do anything important?
TLDR: Yes but in this case not really.
They do serve a purpose. Due to how thin, large, and flat the hood is, a small amount of structure is added for stiffening. Cutting too much out could make the hood collapse.
However, due to the small amount that he cut through, this would probably just make the hood a bit more floppy when lifting it.
#thisisfairuse
Good for you. It looks clean but new and just slightly aggressive. Great job!
Men, this very cool, like!
You didnt need that scanner to make those vents.. . Look like u made it on tinkercad
i would have made them a little bigger but sweet video and content regardless
I missed the point of scanning the hood, other than to showcase the scanner. After removing the hood, powdering it, and scanning it, you essentially printed out a couple of generic vents and applied them to your hood without associating with any surface modeling or other purpose for the 3d scan. They didn't fit the aesthetic or lines of the hood.
You didn’t show it installed?
Or how he made in fusion.
And that vent will suck the air out to keep up with the speed of air flowing above the car's bonut you have to place them in a way that forces air in to increase the pressure and therefore increasing the output power of the engine
3d printing is far from reaching the mass DIY folks in terms of price and time. 3d scanner ( too high price for a good one 10k+), good PC able to run software for this type of work(3k+), learning at least the basics (1-2 months), 3d printer (the bigger the better and the price jumps a lot 3k+) all of this still need bodywork since the end result from it is not even close and the time of fixing errors and adjusting... The time spent in waiting, etc for me it's not worth it. I prefer using cardboard, foam, clay, and other materials and working directly on the mold. It's good that tech is coming close, but it is still too far for someone wanting to create 1 part like bumper, fender, or wing. For mass production sure all hands down investing but for DIY... nah (personal opinion ofc) thanks for the review !
You really should wear work gloves when handling a grinder. Trust me I speak from experience.
The heat under the hood will melt this part.
There is no way, pla melts at about 70°C
@@rcman000 The optimal operating temperature for a gasoline engine is from 90 to 100-110 degrees, for a diesel engine it is 80-90. The possibility of melting cannot be ruled out.
@@VitaliySunny I have used PLA under hood for various things from headlight mounts to air cleaner mounts, and have never had a melting issue.
@VitaliySunny ita the temp of the engine block, go for a drive and tell me if you can touch the hood because if the hood will tego to 90° you get burned
@@rcman000 In the end he didn't use PLA, so, that's a plus.
Looks like 💩
Bro read @Xailow's comment below he is suggesting some major improvements