Scanning and Printing RC Car Parts with the Creality CR-Scan Otter
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- Опубліковано 27 чер 2024
- Today we're playing around with our new 3D Scanner to see if we can scan and print replacement parts for some of our favorite RCs. We're also going to test out 3D scanning something much bigger so watch now to find out how you can do this too!
Get your own Creality CR-Scan Otter and use discount code OTTER100 for 10% off: store.creality.com/products/c... - Наука та технологія
For this particular part, I'd be tempted to print it on it's end so the opening of the joint-holes are facing the Z-plane, the side that has less of a slant is more ideal so it's less support material used. It would be best if the webbing/spine in the part had chamfering to drop those as overhangs. But the main idea is make the holes as structural as possible by being full loops, if you start getting any layer-splits consider trying that, else good layer adhesion!
Thank you. Excellent explanations for anyone and especially new people like me! Great idea and super useful. I hope it gets lots of views.
As for filament, I've been looking into PP-CF for my printed RC part.
Polypropylene Carbon Fiber.
It's properties and specs, on paper, look phenomenal.
I have some on its way an can't wait to put it to the test.
To help scan the other side use a geometry rich object like a printed maker tower or a couple crumpled up towel with the board up on its edge that way when you go around to the back side, the scanner can hold onto the additional geometry
Yeah, scanning targets with or without marker dots, crumbled blue painter tape or clay.
CF filaments can wear out your printer nozzle pretty fast. Make sure you have a hardened one.
In combat robotics we use a lot of Polymaker polymax pla. Very strong and easy to print.
Wouldn’t PA or PC be better? PC would be harder and PA less likely to break.
I know there's a lot of focus on the materials but what about this freak'n scanner?!?!
I'm so impressed with how well it turned out!
It doesn't seem like you had to do any "computer" clean up work. Like scaling or removing random artifacts that I've seen show up in other scanned parts before.
Some will say it's expensive but if its really this good, and you have a business in this field, how could you not afford to be without one now?
Fantastic, dude! Thanks a bunch for all the testing! 😃
You can also try different infil geometries. Some are definitely stronger than others!
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
wow 3D scanners have come a long way, last time i tryde 3d scan something was with the kinect for xbox 360 🤣
What printer are you using? Those parts look super clean especially where the supports were...
You can do this with almost any printer. The easiest, but expensive, printer would be a Bambu X1C.
I have a Voron 2.4R2 350mm, Bambu X1C and Snapmaker J1. Every printer can print quality parts.
You don't want 100% infill you want some give some give, I think 70% is the same strength as 100%, you want some give you don't want the parts to be too stiff they're just going to snap.
Over 40% infill there is no benefit in strength. If you want strong parts use a many walls as possible and be aware of the part orientation for printing.
If you want a part absorbing shocks use a different material. PETG for example instead of PC, PLA or ABS. Or PA12, 98A TPU, PP.
@@Todestelzer okay yeah I knew it wasn't 100% for some reason I thought it was 70