Thanks man I converted my wood trusses a couple years ago into a cathedral ceiling…never done it before….I watched all ur videos and it turned out great little nerve wrecking when I took out the temp walls but I used 2 car floor jacks to get the ridge beam in it worked great…. Very informative answered all the unknowns I had and I’ve gotten zero movement it Ty
I have a question sir, I am wanting to create vaulted ceilings in half my house( living room and kitchen . I understand the concepts you have in this and other videos, we would pour footings in the basement and 4x4 up to the 1st floor and bottom of ridge beam. Current construction is like the model in this video, collar ties on rafted with 2 rafters skipped in between. My question is: can I use the ridge board (2x10) as the ridge beam? And If not could you explain why? And if the ridge board is not adequate enough, can a ridge beam be installed under the ridge board? All of your examples show the ridge board bing removed entirely
good, straight-forward description, enjoyed it. But- I have never seen that rafter lap joint on the center beam. It looks more appropriate to post and beam construction. In other words, it is a very fine detail which is not common, even though it is elegant, but most framers would not have time for that. It would take a real artisan to do it. but thank you for making a real decent video.
It's hard to tell if it's a common method of construction, but it's definitely used more often with exposed ridge beams and of course would be stronger than creating some type of roof ridge above the beam.
gregvancom it's actually not as complicated as it seems. Building my own house next year and will be installing a ridge beam for a cathedral style ceiling
this is great. I am personally happy that you went into detail about the length of the beam supporting the ridge beam. So, to clarify, does the beam go all the way to the ground? Or does it rest on the floor foundation? Also, the stud walls, I would imagine, are screwed into the beam in addition to the metal strap. That metal strap looks really thin and flimsy... I can't imagine attaching the walls with a metal strap.
lapping the rafters new concept to me but interesting ty for vidio another tip to attach rafters to ride beam is to square off short point of rafter cut 1 1/2 and slip hanger in their it will conceal it making it easier to drywall
Another very informative video. I have a small suggestion; please make the cursor bigger. It would be easier for DIYers to follow you easier. Thank you.
+SandiRose27 I would love to, but currently have it as large as possible. If someone else can provide me with instructions on how to make it larger, I would love to know how.
+gregvancom Since it was my request, and I'm retired so I have the time, I searched all day yesterday for a solution. There are almost no choices for bigger cursors other than what windows offers on all computers. BUT, I did find this website and I believe they are safe. www.rw-designer.com/cursor-library MOST of the pointers available are plain silly, but there are a few that will be beneficial. You'll just have to take a little time to QUICKLY scroll through the JUNK. I hope this helps. Thanks.
If you wanted to do this for a garage and the door is a single double wide, could you set the post on top of the header to carry that end of the ridge beam?
I don't know if they have load bearing wall framing studs and then next would be the pricing. Would it actually be cheaper to use metal? I think the best advice I could give would be to use wood, even though this really isn't answering your question.
I'm getting ready to build a 12'x12' with a 5' overhang off the front with the upper loft of 8'x12'. It will sit on a mono pad. Basically what you made with a porch and a loft. I like that you showed both ways to support the ridge beam . I've done my fair of reading and can't find the answer I'm looking for so I'll try to word this question in a way you can hopefully answer with no liability... have you ever seen anyone hang floor joists off a beefed up door header to save on height? The front wall is 2x8 so plenty to sit on. I've read through the comments on enough videos you make to see you're careful with what you say.
Do you need blocking of any dimension between the rafters? I’m more familiar with building decks. Perhaps a staggered 2x of smaller dimension so it doesn’t impede air flow, or would that be overkill?
If I'm correct, in the first method, the lapping and nailing of the rafters together above the ridge beam eliminates the need for straps there, as would be necessary in the 2nd method. Is this correct?
Greg, we have a load bearing wall directly under the peak (ceiling joists are resting on it). Instead of a giant beam, could I just add a short wall under the peak, extending down to the load bearing wall? That would be easier than the beam and still give us height.
I can't provide engineering advice, but can tell you that a wall on top of a load bearing beam support is a common method used by engineers to support loads above like rafters.
Hi Greg, what about if you want to have a completely open cathedral ceiling on both ends and you don't want the post? Do you have to use a steel A-frame or can you do it using timber?
I wanted my cathedral ceiling over my living/kitchen area, but where the posts would be to support the beam would land in the middle of the hallway. Can I run a small post from the beam onto a header over the hall??
2 questions please, regarding the last type of roof, shouldn’t there be room for air to circulate for any condensation in an area where there can be extreme weather? 2nd is for a log cabin would the post still be required and have to be placed in front of the log wall? Not very attractive. Or could the ridge go on top of the logs if the logs are substantial enough? Thank you for any guidance.
I've seen log cabins built both ways and it will depend on the design more than anything as to which method of construction to use for the ridge beam. Air circulation through rafters is a requirement in most areas when building vaulted ceilings, but you will need to check with your local building department if you have one for more information.
Getting ready to build rafters, and want to have open ceiling no beam in the middle. Approximately 48" to height of rafter. Just fasten with 6 " screws and screw up through the wall into rafter. Will this work and walls not bow out? The previous building was done like this and I would like to do the same. Need quick response since building these this Saturday coming the 7th.
I won't be able to provide you with structural engineering information and would recommend using standard construction practices like those shown in the video.
What if your posts that hold up the beam are over a garage door header and a window header on both ends? Could you still remove the flat joists to vault the ceiling?
Keep in mind that I cannot provide you with structural engineering advice, but can suggest that if all of the framing components like the roof rafters, posts, headers and even the wall framing door trimmers are the correct structural sizes for transferring the loads, then I would say quite possibly yes.
Good video. Question, I replaced a couple of ceiling joists and I found that the ends of the rafters (2 by) did not meet with the ceiling joists in some cases, so there is a gap between the rafters and ceiling joists. Consequently, I nailed the joist against the wall and not against the rafters because of that space. Can that be a problem?
Rafter ties can usually be spaced 48 inches apart, if that answers your question, if not then provide some more details. If the nearest one is 48 inches from a wall then you should be okay.
Can the ridge beam rest upon a post which is resting on a beam, the ends of which are supported by posts on top of piers, thus allowing an open area in one part of the room which allows unimpeded access to other parts of the room? (i.e., no post/column in the middle of the room)
It would be for me to say yes or no, because I don't know exactly what you're dealing with and cannot offer engineering advice, but I have seen beams sitting on top of other beams, plenty of times.
I want to convert to vaulted design but one side of my ridge beam would be above my doorway. I have seen designs that just connect the ridge beam to the header using a post that doesn’t go all the way down to the floor. What are your thoughts on this design?
I'm doing a open concept to a older home. In one room (family room) vaulted ceiling. The other room (kitchen) flat ceiling. My question : HOW TO SUPPORT A VAULTED CEILING BEAM WHILE REMOVING A LOAD BEARING WALL? Could you do a video on this or email me?
If it needed some type of the support beam and you didn't want to use it, then you might need to build it out of steel. Here's a link to our website that might be helpful, start with the ceilings. www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/remodeling/framing/index.html
We have a sloped ceiling in our living/dining room combo that we want to expose in order for the area to appear larger. My question is, would we be able to remove some of the rafters (we're removing 14 of 20 rafters) leaving 6 intact. Would that cause the roof to collapse or cause excessive weight or pressure on the walls???
If you can, take some pictures of the roof framing and send them to me for more information. Keep in mind that I am not an engineer and can only provide you with an educated opinion.
The could be, but if the project is built and engineered correctly, then it shouldn't. Good question and something to give some serious thought to when building.
I don't think it will reduce sagging, unless you filled up the entire area below it :) okay not a good idea and yes I've seen some types of foam move building components.
Yes, the post would sit on top of a heavy duty door header, for example for a 3 foot door a 4 x 6 might be required when there isn't a concentrated load above it and a 4 x 12 might be required if there is. Also, double door trimmers might be required or 4 x 4's might need to be used to support each side of the larger door header to transfer the load to the building foundation. I will make a video and post a link here when it's done.
hey! great explanation, what if I needed to put french doors right in the center of the front and back wall? the vertical beams that come down from the ridge would be right in the center of the doorway. any ideas? (old separate garage turning into inlaw suite) thanks!
I will put your video on my lists of videos to be made in the future, but would contact a engineer to provide you with more information. It will be easier if you could move the doors over to the right or the left of the post supporting the ridge beam.
Is there a certain size room where removing rafter ties is acceptable? I other words, if I have a small 9x13' porch, so is it okay to remove those rafter ties without adding a massive support beam In the middle? The rafters rest on the 9' long so it's pretty short.
I think the best way I can answer your question would be to tell you that I have seen plenty of porches built without rafter ties. Feel free to send me a picture for more information.
In this design what percentage of weight ridge beam carry and what percent side walls. Is it always a constant like 60% side walls and 40% ridge which is 20% on each side of the ridge?
I can provide you with any type of engineering advice, because it could be different on each project. I would imagine that the slope of the roof would also be a factor when figuring out weight distribution.
What if I want to put a large patio door on one end of the ridge beam where center post is under the wall. Can i remove the supporting post and put a 12 x 4 header?
I can't provide you with the actual beam size, but I think you're on the right path. You could simply install a door header and opening in the wall and then install a ridge beam support post that would sit on top of the header.
Today's construction methods might require you to install some type of hanger, but in the past we simply toe nailed them together or angled 16d nails through the rafters and into the beam for a nice connection. Let me know if this doesn't make sense.
Send me a picture of what you're referring to and I can make another video. I think you referring to a shed roof, but the picture should give me what I need.
From a "remodeling" standpoint, which the title also suggests, the majority of us these days (but not exclusively) are going to run into engineered trusses. So, you're saying from scratch then or old-style construction, I assume?
+NorthernChev They still use conventional framing today, especially when engineered roof truss systems won't work. A good example of that would be cathedral ceilings.
+Jaime Perez If I understand your question correctly, can you cover the building hardware, straps, nails, etc. Yes, you can and they would be installed per manufacturers installation instructions. Let me know if I didn't answer your question or feel free to ask another.
+gregvancom : Thanks and yes, you answered it. :-). I have another question, do you know the weight a 2x4 can withstand before it breaks? I'm also trying to understand the load factors for the framing elements. : thanks
No I don't know how much weight a 2 x 4 can carry before it breaks, but there are span charts that might be helpful to you. I typed the words "framing span tables" into a search engine and it pulled up all sorts of information that you might find helpful.
Good question, most exterior finishes like siding or stucco will provide sufficient bracing for small buildings, less than 12' x 12' for example, but might require shear panel or additional structural supports, for larger buildings, using the example in this video.
If you're referring to the post that is separated by the top plates, then really you have two choices. Either strap the post together and have the top plates continue through or have a continuous post that would separate the top plates that would also need a strap to connect the top plates together. A situation like this won't require a strap if the wall is balloon framed or if the wall studs are continuous like the post.
ua-cam.com/video/ZWeDYJrL3KM/v-deo.html See if this video helps if it doesn't let me know and the rafters that overlap are used to create a nice solid tie or connection if there nailed together. You can nail the top of the rafters together from each side, otherwise you would need to use straps if you lined them up.
I have a 16by24 structure. How shallow can I make my roof pitch. Will a shallow slope not be structurally sound ? I originally wanted to do a flat roof but decided to go with a slight slope , I just don’t know if it will hold up , my plan is to basically frame it like the first example in your video , except the ridge beam basically resting on the double top plate
John O'neill I am aware of that , I have heard of it referred to as a flat roof , yes a slight slope to shed the water , but your response doesn’t touch on my inquiry rather try’s to correct my terminology , please if you have something useful to add I would love to hear that
So build the walls do the calculation on the roof... you'll get common rafters. It's calculated to guarantee structurally sound. Using tried and tested measures. Your over complicating it.
Should be continuous column. It seems counterintuitive at first, but that really is an unacceptable hinge point and on a much smaller column section at that. Birdsmouth cut needs to extend across the entire width of the top plate at the eaves. You did not explain very well the lapping of the rafters.
Thanks for the constructive criticism and the building would definitely be better with a full-length post and no hinge point. I don't see any need for a full-length bird's mouth roof rafter cut and as far as the lapping roof rafters, you will need to keep in mind that it was not meant to be a step-by-step instructional video, but an example of basic vaulted roof or ceiling framing. Feel free to go to our website for more information and instructions.
It's hard for me to answer that question, because I don't know how the home was constructed. However, most wood framed homes can use posts to support ridge beams and roof rafters that are properly sized. Let me know if this makes sense.
I'm an entry level housing inspector and your video(s) make reading these codes a world easier. Thank you!!!
You're welcome and good luck on your new career.
Thanks man I converted my wood trusses a couple years ago into a cathedral ceiling…never done it before….I watched all ur videos and it turned out great little nerve wrecking when I took out the temp walls but I used 2 car floor jacks to get the ridge beam in it worked great…. Very informative answered all the unknowns I had and I’ve gotten zero movement it Ty
UA-cam GOLD right here!! Thanks 🙏
I always enjoy hearing comments like yours and thanks for watching.
Just the video I was waiting for. Thank you .
Hope you enjoyed it!
Excellently done video with simple but great content targeted right for me. Thanks.
Are 2x6 always recommended in this sort of application, or could a 2x4 be used instead for a small structure like an 8x8 shed?
I have a question sir, I am wanting to create vaulted ceilings in half my house( living room and kitchen .
I understand the concepts you have in this and other videos, we would pour footings in the basement and 4x4 up to the 1st floor and bottom of ridge beam.
Current construction is like the model in this video, collar ties on rafted with 2 rafters skipped in between.
My question is: can I use the ridge board (2x10) as the ridge beam? And If not could you explain why? And if the ridge board is not adequate enough, can a ridge beam be installed under the ridge board?
All of your examples show the ridge board bing removed entirely
Great explanation, thank you
good, straight-forward description, enjoyed it. But- I have never seen that rafter lap joint on the center beam. It looks more appropriate to post and beam construction. In other words, it is a very fine detail which is not common, even though it is elegant, but most framers would not have time for that. It would take a real artisan to do it. but thank you for making a real decent video.
It's hard to tell if it's a common method of construction, but it's definitely used more often with exposed ridge beams and of course would be stronger than creating some type of roof ridge above the beam.
Thank you. Very helpful information!
You're welcome!
thanks!! answered alot of my question.
You're welcome and thanks for watching.
Thank you!! Just what I needed
Sometimes all we need is simple video or a few pictures and I'm glad it helped.
gregvancom it's actually not as complicated as it seems. Building my own house next year and will be installing a ridge beam for a cathedral style ceiling
You can do it.
this is great. I am personally happy that you went into detail about the length of the beam supporting the ridge beam. So, to clarify, does the beam go all the way to the ground? Or does it rest on the floor foundation? Also, the stud walls, I would imagine, are screwed into the beam in addition to the metal strap. That metal strap looks really thin and flimsy... I can't imagine attaching the walls with a metal strap.
Glad you learned a few things and you should go to our website and watch more videos on roof framing and remodeling.
I’m surprised collar ties were not mentioned in this video, is there a specific reason?
Awesome tutorial.
lapping the rafters new concept to me but interesting ty for vidio another tip to attach rafters to ride beam is to square off short point of rafter cut 1 1/2 and slip hanger in their it will conceal it making it easier to drywall
wrong vidio but been watching ur vidios from several years ago glad to see u still doing it.
Another very informative video. I have a small suggestion; please make the cursor bigger. It would be easier for DIYers to follow you easier. Thank you.
+SandiRose27 I would love to, but currently have it as large as possible. If someone else can provide me with instructions on how to make it larger, I would love to know how.
+gregvancom Since it was my request, and I'm retired so I have the time, I searched all day yesterday for a solution. There are almost no choices for bigger cursors other than what windows offers on all computers. BUT, I did find this website and I believe they are safe. www.rw-designer.com/cursor-library MOST of the pointers available are plain silly, but there are a few that will be beneficial. You'll just have to take a little time to QUICKLY scroll through the JUNK. I hope this helps. Thanks.
I will check it out and thanks for all of your effort.
Think I could remodel my home like this myself?
If you wanted to do this for a garage and the door is a single double wide, could you set the post on top of the header to carry that end of the ridge beam?
Brilliant. Thank you!
You're very welcome!
Great video thank you
Glad you enjoyed it
Thank you. Great information and clear directions. Can you suggest how it might change if using metal studs for framing rather than wood.
I don't know if they have load bearing wall framing studs and then next would be the pricing. Would it actually be cheaper to use metal? I think the best advice I could give would be to use wood, even though this really isn't answering your question.
I'm getting ready to build a 12'x12' with a 5' overhang off the front with the upper loft of 8'x12'. It will sit on a mono pad. Basically what you made with a porch and a loft. I like that you showed both ways to support the ridge beam . I've done my fair of reading and can't find the answer I'm looking for so I'll try to word this question in a way you can hopefully answer with no liability... have you ever seen anyone hang floor joists off a beefed up door header to save on height? The front wall is 2x8 so plenty to sit on. I've read through the comments on enough videos you make to see you're careful with what you say.
I don't see why not as long as it will support the loading.
Do you need blocking of any dimension between the rafters? I’m more familiar with building decks. Perhaps a staggered 2x of smaller dimension so it doesn’t impede air flow, or would that be overkill?
I've seen a variety of different blocking sizes smaller than rafters used and the same size blocks as rafters.
Excellent
Thank you! Cheers!
If I'm correct, in the first method, the lapping and nailing of the rafters together above the ridge beam eliminates the need for straps there, as would be necessary in the 2nd method. Is this correct?
In my experience, you can lap or strap, rafters or ceiling joist, but since I'm not an engineer, don't know if it will work on every project.
Greg, we have a load bearing wall directly under the peak (ceiling joists are resting on it). Instead of a giant beam, could I just add a short wall under the peak, extending down to the load bearing wall? That would be easier than the beam and still give us height.
I can't provide engineering advice, but can tell you that a wall on top of a load bearing beam support is a common method used by engineers to support loads above like rafters.
Can the support beam for the ridge beam be transferred to a header for a door opening under the end of the wall?
It would depend on the framing, but I would think so.
this was amazing thx
Glad you liked it!
Hi Greg, what about if you want to have a completely open cathedral ceiling on both ends and you don't want the post? Do you have to use a steel A-frame or can you do it using timber?
I would think some type of steel frame would be the way to go.
So what is better the ridge beam under the rafters or the rafters joined into the sides of the ridge beam ?
I would say the beam under the rafters.
I wanted my cathedral ceiling over my living/kitchen area, but where the posts would be to support the beam would land in the middle of the hallway. Can I run a small post from the beam onto a header over the hall??
I've seen it done lots of times, you just might need a larger header to support structural load above.
2 questions please, regarding the last type of roof, shouldn’t there be room for air to circulate for any condensation in an area where there can be extreme weather? 2nd is for a log cabin would the post still be required and have to be placed in front of the log wall? Not very attractive. Or could the ridge go on top of the logs if the logs are substantial enough? Thank you for any guidance.
I've seen log cabins built both ways and it will depend on the design more than anything as to which method of construction to use for the ridge beam. Air circulation through rafters is a requirement in most areas when building vaulted ceilings, but you will need to check with your local building department if you have one for more information.
Getting ready to build rafters, and want to have open ceiling no beam in the middle. Approximately 48" to height of rafter. Just fasten with 6 " screws and screw up through the wall into rafter. Will this work and walls not bow out? The previous building was done like this and I would like to do the same. Need quick response since building these this Saturday coming the 7th.
I won't be able to provide you with structural engineering information and would recommend using standard construction practices like those shown in the video.
What if your posts that hold up the beam are over a garage door header and a window header on both ends? Could you still remove the flat joists to vault the ceiling?
Keep in mind that I cannot provide you with structural engineering advice, but can suggest that if all of the framing components like the roof rafters, posts, headers and even the wall framing door trimmers are the correct structural sizes for transferring the loads, then I would say quite possibly yes.
Good video. Question, I replaced a couple of ceiling joists and I found that the ends of the rafters (2 by) did not meet with the ceiling joists in some cases, so there is a gap between the rafters and ceiling joists. Consequently, I nailed the joist against the wall and not against the rafters because of that space. Can that be a problem?
Rafter ties can usually be spaced 48 inches apart, if that answers your question, if not then provide some more details. If the nearest one is 48 inches from a wall then you should be okay.
Can the ridge beam rest upon a post which is resting on a beam, the ends of which are supported by posts on top of piers, thus allowing an open area in one part of the room which allows unimpeded access to other parts of the room? (i.e., no post/column in the middle of the room)
It would be for me to say yes or no, because I don't know exactly what you're dealing with and cannot offer engineering advice, but I have seen beams sitting on top of other beams, plenty of times.
I want to convert to vaulted design but one side of my ridge beam would be above my doorway. I have seen designs that just connect the ridge beam to the header using a post that doesn’t go all the way down to the floor. What are your thoughts on this design?
Yes, I see it all the time. A larger header might be needed.
I'm doing a open concept to a older home. In one room (family room) vaulted ceiling. The other room (kitchen) flat ceiling. My question : HOW TO SUPPORT A VAULTED CEILING BEAM WHILE REMOVING A LOAD BEARING WALL? Could you do a video on this or email me?
Can you send me a picture or drawing so that I can get a general idea of what wall will need to be removed?
What if you a have a roof type without an end like a hip or cross hipped roof and you don't want a beam coming down where the hip starts?
If it needed some type of the support beam and you didn't want to use it, then you might need to build it out of steel. Here's a link to our website that might be helpful, start with the ceilings.
www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/remodeling/framing/index.html
We have a sloped ceiling in our living/dining room combo that we want to expose in order for the area to appear larger. My question is, would we be able to remove some of the rafters (we're removing 14 of 20 rafters) leaving 6 intact. Would that cause the roof to collapse or cause excessive weight or pressure on the walls???
If you can, take some pictures of the roof framing and send them to me for more information. Keep in mind that I am not an engineer and can only provide you with an educated opinion.
My question is are cathedral ceilings and heavy clay Spanish tiles a bad combination ?
The could be, but if the project is built and engineered correctly, then it shouldn't. Good question and something to give some serious thought to when building.
Can adding closed cell spray foam help reduce any sag or forces push out walls?
I don't think it will reduce sagging, unless you filled up the entire area below it :) okay not a good idea and yes I've seen some types of foam move building components.
I was wondering if you wanted to put a door centered on that wall is there a way to transfer the center post off the to the sides of the door opening
Yes, the post would sit on top of a heavy duty door header, for example for a 3 foot door a 4 x 6 might be required when there isn't a concentrated load above it and a 4 x 12 might be required if there is. Also, double door trimmers might be required or 4 x 4's might need to be used to support each side of the larger door header to transfer the load to the building foundation. I will make a video and post a link here when it's done.
hey! great explanation, what if I needed to put french doors right in the center of the front and back wall? the vertical beams that come down from the ridge would be right in the center of the doorway. any ideas? (old separate garage turning into inlaw suite) thanks!
never mind I see someone asked already
although I still need to find a visual to show how many beams and where...
I will put your video on my lists of videos to be made in the future, but would contact a engineer to provide you with more information. It will be easier if you could move the doors over to the right or the left of the post supporting the ridge beam.
Is there a certain size room where removing rafter ties is acceptable? I other words, if I have a small 9x13' porch, so is it okay to remove those rafter ties without adding a massive support beam In the middle? The rafters rest on the 9' long so it's pretty short.
I think the best way I can answer your question would be to tell you that I have seen plenty of porches built without rafter ties. Feel free to send me a picture for more information.
In this design what percentage of weight ridge beam carry and what percent side walls. Is it always a constant like 60% side walls and 40% ridge which is 20% on each side of the ridge?
I can provide you with any type of engineering advice, because it could be different on each project. I would imagine that the slope of the roof would also be a factor when figuring out weight distribution.
What if I want to put a large patio door on one end of the ridge beam where center post is under the wall. Can i remove the supporting post and put a 12 x 4 header?
I can't provide you with the actual beam size, but I think you're on the right path. You could simply install a door header and opening in the wall and then install a ridge beam support post that would sit on top of the header.
Thanks!
How are the rafters attached at the top in the last option?
Today's construction methods might require you to install some type of hanger, but in the past we simply toe nailed them together or angled 16d nails through the rafters and into the beam for a nice connection. Let me know if this doesn't make sense.
What's the process for single pitched houses?
Send me a picture of what you're referring to and I can make another video. I think you referring to a shed roof, but the picture should give me what I need.
I have a cracked 2×4 web on a truss. what options do I have to repair the web?
+Benjamin Contreras Send me a picture and I will see what I can do.
From a "remodeling" standpoint, which the title also suggests, the majority of us these days (but not exclusively) are going to run into engineered trusses. So, you're saying from scratch then or old-style construction, I assume?
+NorthernChev They still use conventional framing today, especially when engineered roof truss systems won't work. A good example of that would be cathedral ceilings.
Wow 7 years old and im just finding it now
Glad you're here.
Can you also cover the fastening tools used in the framing, and how they are installed. :-) thanks
+Jaime Perez If I understand your question correctly, can you cover the building hardware, straps, nails, etc. Yes, you can and they would be installed per manufacturers installation instructions. Let me know if I didn't answer your question or feel free to ask another.
+gregvancom : Thanks and yes, you answered it. :-). I have another question, do you know the weight a 2x4 can withstand before it breaks? I'm also trying to understand the load factors for the framing elements. : thanks
No I don't know how much weight a 2 x 4 can carry before it breaks, but there are span charts that might be helpful to you. I typed the words "framing span tables" into a search engine and it pulled up all sorts of information that you might find helpful.
+gregvancom :-). Yes, thank you.
How are you bracing the walls?
Good question, most exterior finishes like siding or stucco will provide sufficient bracing for small buildings, less than 12' x 12' for example, but might require shear panel or additional structural supports, for larger buildings, using the example in this video.
JemDaffodil سلام
Why doe engineers prefer the straps? Wouldn't the break be far less effective than the stacked method on the front?
If you're referring to the post that is separated by the top plates, then really you have two choices. Either strap the post together and have the top plates continue through or have a continuous post that would separate the top plates that would also need a strap to connect the top plates together. A situation like this won't require a strap if the wall is balloon framed or if the wall studs are continuous like the post.
Right I understand, but why is one preferred over the other? You said it was prefered to have a solid beam. Why is that?
I don't remember saying that one was preferred over the other, could you be more specific and show me where I said that.
At 5:52. "They'd rather see the strap..." Also, why do the front rafters line up but the others overlap? Great video btw.
ua-cam.com/video/ZWeDYJrL3KM/v-deo.html
See if this video helps if it doesn't let me know and the rafters that overlap are used to create a nice solid tie or connection if there nailed together. You can nail the top of the rafters together from each side, otherwise you would need to use straps if you lined them up.
I have a 16by24 structure. How shallow can I make my roof pitch. Will a shallow slope not be structurally sound ? I originally wanted to do a flat roof but decided to go with a slight slope , I just don’t know if it will hold up , my plan is to basically frame it like the first example in your video , except the ridge beam basically resting on the double top plate
tyrone elliott no roof is flat it always has a slight angle
John O'neill I am aware of that , I have heard of it referred to as a flat roof , yes a slight slope to shed the water , but your response doesn’t touch on my inquiry rather try’s to correct my terminology , please if you have something useful to add I would love to hear that
And of course you need to to comply with building code in your area.
John O'neill it’s a remote cabin build, no building codes required
So build the walls do the calculation on the roof... you'll get common rafters. It's calculated to guarantee structurally sound. Using tried and tested measures. Your over complicating it.
Lucid !!!!
Should be continuous column. It seems counterintuitive at first, but that really is an unacceptable hinge point and on a much smaller column section at that. Birdsmouth cut needs to extend across the entire width of the top plate at the eaves. You did not explain very well the lapping of the rafters.
Thanks for the constructive criticism and the building would definitely be better with a full-length post and no hinge point. I don't see any need for a full-length bird's mouth roof rafter cut and as far as the lapping roof rafters, you will need to keep in mind that it was not meant to be a step-by-step instructional video, but an example of basic vaulted roof or ceiling framing. Feel free to go to our website for more information and instructions.
7:06 what kind of "basic xxx cut" is that? Sorry I do not know the terminology
I will try to make a video about the basic terminology for roof framing and will put a link here when it is completed.
@@gregvancom thank you very much but could you just name that cut, I'm curious now.
@@AlessioSangalli I mentioned it in the video, it's often referred to by carpenters as a seat cut or a bird's mouth.
@@gregvancom oh "seat" cut. Yeah of course you mentioned it but I could not figure out the exact spelling. Thanks!
@@AlessioSangalli That what I figured and imagine that you have just saved others a little frustration.
can u get away with this system for a 16 foot span
It's hard for me to answer that question, because I don't know how the home was constructed. However, most wood framed homes can use posts to support ridge beams and roof rafters that are properly sized. Let me know if this makes sense.
Vaulted ceilings are arched.
Some vaulted ceilings are arched and some are straight.
@@gregvancom no. Some pieces are straight. But the in certainty the overall shapes are arched.
Nah rather make trusses
I'm building a small pole barn and need some advice do you offer any design plans for sale thanks.
No, sorry