Quick Tip: How To Remove a Stuck Gun Screw
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- Опубліковано 10 лют 2025
- It always sounds so easy in the instructions. You remove Screw X from your firearm, and proceed with the project, easy-peasy. But what if that screw won't come loose? Torque it too hard, and the screwdriver might slip and gouge the gun's finish. Or worse, you break off the head of the screw. Relax, Brownell Gun Tech™ Caleb is here to give you stuck-screw-removal skills you can use not only in your gun work but elsewhere in your life. Use this one any type of screw: slot-head, Phillips, Torx, Allen (hex). He demonstrates for us on a stubborn slot-head screw retaining the stock of his vintage Mossberg Model 151 .22 rifle. If you can, secure the gun in a bench vise. That way both of your hands are free.
THE RIGHT TOOLS: Use a screwdriver tip that perfectly fits the screw slot. Gun screw slots are cut with 90-degree angles at the bottom, so if you go in with a tapered screwdriver, it's going to slip and a mishap will ensue. Get a set of screwdrivers designed specifically for working on firearm screws, such as a Brownells Magna-Tip® screwdriver set. You want a screwdriver tip that fills the WIDTH and the LENGTH of the screw slot. In a lot of situations, just using the right-size screwdriver will transfer enough torque to motivate the stuck screw to move.
TWO METHODS: Sometimes the culprit is a bit of rust locking the screw in place. Dab some penetrating oil, such as Kroil, on the screw head let it sit overnight. This is often enough to dissolve the rust and free up the screw. Applying some heat to the screw may do the job, but it's not an option on Caleb's Mossberg 151 because the problem screw is in the middle of the nicely finished wood stock.
IF I HAD A HAMMER: Tapping the top of the screwdriver's handle with a nylon gunsmithing hammer, while you apply increasing counterclockwise torque to the handle often works very well at breaking the screw free. The shockwaves of the hammer taps vibrating through the threads break loose the rust or old thread-locker that have frozen the screw.
LAST RESORT - A WRENCH: If the hammer doesn't work, try clamping a crescent wrench to the shank of the screwdriver to give you more leverage. But this is a last resort. The extra leverage risks breaking off the screw head - and then you're really in trouble! Fixing that problem will involve a mill or a drill press. That is a subject for a future video!
As mentioned below, a impact screw driver can be a saver but for heat around nice wood and plastic an old high watt solder iron and put pinpoint heat on a screw head without surrounding damage in nothing flat. I use this method A LOT when restoring old original Colt, Remington, etc. black powder guns that have been seized for over century! It works when a torch would do more damage than good.
Thanks for the tips. Appreciate you all taking the time to make these helpful and educational videos.
I have used a soldering iron to add heat to a screw with out damage to wood
Another option to consider.
Older 70’s & 80’s Japanese motorcycles often had poor quality fasteners. (Phillips head screws seemed to be made of cheese)
In 1981 I bought myself an appropriately sized “impact driver” which when set into the top of the screw and twisted, with light tension, you tapped forcing the tool/screw to turn.
I still have it today.
Lisle 30750 Hand Impact Tool Set, Loosens Rusted or Frozen Screws Quickly. Came with my first tool set in trade school. You can't beat it. Well actually you can. 😂 😂
Yeah, I used one of those for years. Mine is made by Snap-on, and works like a champ. Cheap, it ain't.
I have that tool! I bought it specifically for the case cover screws on my 68 Honda 450. Love that thing!
Yep, I think I still have mine somewhere. It was a life saver!
I have a Craftsman impact tool. Bought it to change out a door latch \ lockbox on a 79 Z28.
resting it on the scope!
You are a LIFESAVER. FINALLY A UA-cam HACK WORKED FIRST TRY THANK YOU YOU STUDLY LEGEND
The best penetrating oil I've used is one you can make yourself by combining a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF (automatic transmission fluid). Let it sit for a few minutes, an hour, or a day, depending upon how rusted and stuck the part is.
I wouldn't trust that mix anywhere near a firearm. On an engine block, certainly. But not where you have a finished surface that can get damaged.
@@prestonnewcomb5991 It's never caused me any problems. In any case frozen or rusted parts are typically found on guns lacking pristine finishes.
@@Paladin1873 If that's what you're using it on, then I get why you go for a high octane solution. Definitely give your mix a litmus paper dip and find something that will neutralize it quickly on the places you want to protect. Heck, taping off the good area would probably do well enough if you use a rubber or plastic tape.
@@prestonnewcomb5991 I don't recall ever testing it on nicely blued parts, so now you have me curious.
@@Paladin1873 Actually I might be the one needing research. Acetone has a neutral pH and I can't find much info on ATF. (Mercon or Dexron) all seem to show no info on MSDS. I'm truly curious now.
Just like opening a tight lid on a jar. Tap on it a few times and the vibrations will break it free. Thanks Caleb!
A little different. What happens with the jar lid is you begin to release the vacuum. But tapping on threaded screws and bolts does definitely help a lot.
I clicked the like button just like I do on all Brownells videos.
I agree on having the right size screwdriver tip and I just corrected a guy who was using a number 1 Phillips on a number 2 screw, but not on a gun. It did about make my head explode. I told him to stop and I went and got him a number 2 Phillips bit.
Project Farm channel did extensive testing on various penetrating oils and it included Kroil. I have to say that even though Kroil is very popular and expensive, it was not even close to being the best product. There were other products that were a fraction of the price that were outperforming it. Liquid wrench performed the best out of all the products and it's a lot cheaper. He tested liquid wrench, Royal purple, WD-40, PB blaster, and Kroil. He also tried a Homebrew of acetone and ATF-automatic transmission fluid. That formula came in second place. I would like to see more testing with more products.
Instead of beating on your screwdriver, buy a miniature impact driver (the hammer type) with a 1/4" head for the screwdriver tips. A small electric impact at low power with lots of downward pressure and the correct driver size can get it done too. Never had one I couldn't get out with penetrant and a driver, even on 100+ year old rust.
Tapping while TIGHTENING for a few blows, then tapping while applying loosening torque is another good trick. Screws are often easier to break loose this way if they are corroded in place but not bottomed out. This method has worked for me on old English motorcycles.
All great tips 👍🏻 the tapping on the screwdriver tip I've used on auto repair and had great success over the years. Thanks for vid
The scope is resting on the table. He should've placed a pad on the heel of the buttstock to keep pressure off that scope.
The coffee cup would have worked well too.
One of the reasons most people hate slotted screws is because they always use the wrong size screw driver on them. If you use the proper screw driver, they work quite well. They can even be better than Philips in a lot of situations.
I bought a set of special screwdrivers from Henry. Wow, they were expensive but every screwdriver needed for a Golden Boy was included.
Considering the cost of the gun, these are cheap insurance against damaging it.
Kroil is the absolute king of penetrating oil.
Kroil is actually not that great, I think people just believe in it because it's so expensive. Liquid wrench original formula outperforms it.
@@actionjksn ok.
I've used both. I prefer Kroil.
To each his own.
Have a great day
Caleb, I miss the Smythbusters videos. I need more Smythbusters! You guys do a great job with those.
I have used all of these methods in my life (80 years old) and they work.
As a retired gunsmith of three decades in the business, I spent the most frustrating moments with correcting other's mistakes. Good 'ole Bubba, with his Dollar Store screwdrivers, his Dremmel tool, and heavy-duty sandpaper have destroyed more guns than anyone on the planet!
Ok, rant over...
Yes, those are good, solid, and reliable methods. Used to always say, never force it. Think before you act. Use the right tool for the job. And did I mention never force it?😏
And all those who over tightened screws and stripped the heads while doing it.
Considering for the last 20 years 'gunsmiths' locktighted and overtorqued everything under the sun, poor Bubba was just tryna deal with already existing mistakes
I always look forward to Brownells videos
God knows how many T-10 tips ive broke off over the years...lol. Will have to remember this... Thanks C.
Hi, I have had a smaller version of your screwdriver set for, well longer than UA-cam has been around. You really need to do a full video on the set and explain why they are needed. I think those with quality firearms would appreciate it.
The right screw driver . 👍😊
Caleb if you can heat the screw up because of the wood forgrip,apply some heat from a soldering iron by holding the top directly ontop of the stuck screw.
Just my opinion,opinions may vary
Good stuff Caleb. Thanks. Always enjoy watching and learning with your videos.
I would like to add 2 things to this. If the bits seem loose still but a dab of automotive valve lapping compound on the bit tip. Also if u need to heat it up some, take the tip of a soldering iron to the center of the head of the screw.
Kudos to you guys. A great help once again.
Had a S&W Model 10 with a stuck screw on the plate. Kroiled it and it wouldn't budge. Took it to the range after the Kroil and put rounds through it. Screw came out easily after that.
Stripped the loading lever screw on my first black powder revolver. Now present day I have a new screw coming in today and I’m gonna go for it with my drill and the handy little tiny screw extractor I got in my kit. I hope I do this right 😂 it’s soaking in penetrating oil as I’m watching this so I’m on the right track I guess lol. I’ve done a lot of research on it. honestly I’ve had a vise just been putting it off because I haven’t had the guts to drill into my first gun but honestly it should be fine, I’m probably waaaaay over thinking it, it’s a baby screw not very long either so I’d barely have to get down in there it probably won’t be bad. Got some bits with a great sharp punch for starting a hole at the end of each drill bit.
Always love brownells videos
Bring your gun to your friendly neighborhood old-timer mechanic that has guns. As long as he isn't an animal, he'll be your savior. The older the better, and seriously, make sure the guy isn't a barbarian and ruins a $6,000 gun. Old mechanics know every trick in the book.
That is an awesome Mossberg Rifle.
do the broken screw video!!!!!!
Also, the closed end of a combo wrench fits around this craftsman type driver handles nicely.
A soldering iron with the tip in the center of the screw will heat it nicely without damaging the wood; that Kroil however..... not so good on a nice wood finish.
Best tip I've read all day on getting a damaged screw out without damaging the stock..
Most screwdrivers have a ridged handle that is made to fit a box (or open end, but box end is better) wrench.
Great video! Every step just exactly right. You might want to do a follow up on sizing and obtaining replacement screws for when you run into one that has been removed improperly in the past. Some old screws on firearms make me want to weep.
I learned something new. Thank you.
If the screw is rusted, once it begins to even slightly turn, rotating it back and forth from loosing to tightening is the best and safest way to keep from damaging threads!
Thanks, a good video in the basics series.
A problem today is many gun, and other, manufacturers use a type of threadlocker. Something that can creep into the threads and disolve it would be nice. It seems they only have one type of thread locker and use it on everything even screws some day someone might want to remove. My latest encounter was a aluminum frame 1911 grip bushings. I don't want to use too much heat so as not to effect the aluminum temper.
I believe you are referencing the nylon thread patch (brand name NyLOK or ND) that unlike loctite, does not require the absence of air to cure. Many manufacturers chose to ship their screw with it.
I swear that I must have stripped every single magpul screw with that nylon thread patch they use.
I always use torque wrenches (wheeler and vortex) and quality steel bits like Belzer and the magpul’s screws STILL get stripped.
Even when adding polymer accessories to a metal handguard (recommended 15 inch/pounds) they can get stripped. I torque other screws up to 35 inch / pounds (metal on metal) and never had problems.
Magpul has to either make their screws from harder metal or ditch the “NyLOK” thread patch alltogether.
@@VincitOmniaVeritas7or just take a sewing needle and do like I do..... scratch some of that shit off between the threads and apply your own solution. A simple needle will take all that yellow (or blue) off there. No fancy tools needed. Can literally do it with a thumbtack
@@DronesUnder2A I’m a fan of loctite 242 (blue) myself, its only downside being cracking after it’s dried up and requiring reapplying if you ever want to change the optic / accessory.
In theory the Nylon patch can be reused as many times as you want, being ideal for those who change accessories a lot (like i do with bipods / barrier stops, depending on the stage). The idea isn’t bad, but it clearly requires better metal screws than those Magpul is currently providing.
Thank you for your help
Good to know, thanks.
Excellent tips!
For a screw like that you can use a soldering iron to get it hot without discoloring or burning the wood around it. it doesnt need to be a billion degrees just to hot to touch is usually enough. like an AR barrel nut.
Love your videos!
In addition to removing a stuck screw, that's a good way to break a rifle scope!
A soldering iron works well for localized heat. I would have no problem getting that screw hot. Make sure you stop before it’s smokes the oil.
Please make the part 2 to this video. I have a screw I might have to remove with a drill press 🙃
Awesome video, Thanks
Thanks for the tip 👍
Tapping the driver with a nylon hammer while turning is the most effective for me also.
I always thought Caleb was a Dapper Dan man. Seems he's a Kroil man.
Thanks!
For applying heat in that situation, could an unwetted soldering iron/gun work? Directly applied to the screwhead with a blast of compressed air aferward?
I found out that G96 clp works well on stuck screws also.
There are many ways to remove screws but what is shown here can be used on a beater 10-22, your prized AR or a HOLLAND & HOLLAND.
Always need any tips to help get do the job right
Sweet!
What about those crazy barrel band screws on old mil surplus rifles and the head has been stripped. They are tiny screws
Would this work on the top of a handgun. I have a hellcat pro the screw on the right comes off just fine the one on the left doesn't even budge. I need to remove them to put on the sight please help!
Yup, shocking the screw works very well..What kind of soft jaws are you using on your vice??
But you didn't get the screw out! 😂
Can you put a link to the screwdriver set ?
You can put a little heat on that screw with a fine tip in a electric soldier iron without damaging anything in fact thats the only way of removing it if some idiot has used red locktite on it
I like some of the Kroil products, but they have become difficult for individuals to buy.
why are you using the cresent wrench backwards
My 10 dollar harbor freight set has been working since 2008.
👍
This happen to me with my holosun and M&P 2.0 slide, can't not get it off
Caleb brother please turn that microphone up I had to turn this truck all the way to maximum way quieter than usual
I’m stuck with you Caleb, what should i do? ?
You are using the adjustable wrench backwards. Yes, there is a difference.
THE SCOPE. Stop banging the scope.
Poor scope :(
If that scope can't handle that then it's trash.
@@speedyd8150 It's old, likely old as the rifle. All he had to do to mitigate the risk to it was put something under the back of the stock.
Wow level wouldn't of hurt either
Slick 🤣
I've got a lovely screwdriver meant for hitting but
with every blow it grips my skin.
Problem now a days is many manufacturers are using garbage Chinese screws. They strip, snap, or mangle extremely easy. I will often replace them if they look cheap
💯💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥
😊😊👍🏼👍🏼
Actually nothing new for me, however I am 75 years old so I seen a lot of stuck screws
Struck screws?😂😂😂😊
STUCK
Didn't seem like a very successful video you didn't show us getting the screw loose ?
Have you seen your son on UA-cam yet? He shows gunfails sounds like you
Stop.... screwing around... ok ill show myself out.
ANYTHING with guns, do NOT Do It Yourself.