Thanks! I really appreciate that. Send me an email in about a week or so and I'll send you a free copy of version 3 of the manual once it's ready. NateSchoemer@gmail.com
Hi Nat I have been using leash pressure for training my Labrador puppy. He is 5 months old now and the leash pressure technique is so helpful. He is complying wonderfully. I use it in lots of areas. His size is not a problem because he eases up and does what I want without any struggles. Thanks so much.
Hi Nate, just found your channel and loving all the information. Been watching through your videos in this playlist from ep 1 and got to this one and it mentioned using leash pressure to teach heel. It wasn't in the video and i cant see it in any of the headings for future videos in this playlist. There is an episode missing, number 27 so im not sure wether it was in there or if its in a future video? Watching through the whole playlist before i get my rottweiler x de bordeaux in 8 weeks then again when i get him. Also anywhere i can donate to support your channel 👌 cheers
Thank you, Corey! I really appreciate that. You can see it in this video. ua-cam.com/video/qPD_aVl7pdE/v-deo.html Thanks again for supporting my work. www.patreon.com/NateSchoemer Cheers!
Great sessions and these are quite helpful, Nate. My sis recommended these videos and now am hooked/ have started using these techniques on my 4 month Labrador. It’s already showing results, thank you. One specific question I have is around the sitting posture. My lab has got into a habit of folding one of the back legs when he sits. Am using the marker and reward only when he does the right posture but is there another way to get him to sit correctly?
Thanks, Amit! You can always try using a shaping box. This is my go-to if I need to fix a dogs posture in a static position. ua-cam.com/video/Xb8iiI2Q7Xk/v-deo.html
Nate I’ve watched your video on markers probably 4-5 times but this video has me questioning my understanding again. As I understood it, the terminal marker is to signal the dog that the command is complete and they are released to come/go get their treat, but you use it in this video with no movement from the dog following it. I would expect you to use your continuation marker in this case. What am I not understanding? While I have your ear, in your video on free shaping you kept referencing your continuation marker. Would that always be the case? Your videos are the most useful out there! Do you have a way for us to support you?
Thanks, Cody! Just think of what the word predicts. Continuation marker predicts a reward, while the terminal marker predicts a release and reward. I only move back to encourage the dog to come and get the reward in the beginning when I am conditioning them to the marker. Once they know it is a release and reward, then you no longer have to make them come get the reward, you can hand it directly to them if you like. so if I say down and my dog lays down, I can then say free and hand the food to my dog. At that point my dog knows they can get up from the down position. I hope this helps! If you would like to support my channel, I do have a patreon account. www.patreon.com/NateSchoemer. Thank you again! 😁🙏🐶🐕
@Nate Schoemer Wonderful video as always Nate and thanks for this reply as I had the same question! So... you are using "free" like how many use "yes!", is that correct? Free and yes both being terminal markers? And... if a dog is walking nicely on leash can you use your continuation marker with the reward being that the dog gets to keep walking? Or better to also give treat AND contined walking? Let me guess- treat and continued steps in beginning, fade out to just walking as the reward once fluid? 😄 TIA! (Just subscribed to your patreon so now I can buy you one cup of coffee a month in exchange for the insane amt of info you give out for free. Yeah, that seems even! 🙄😄 (Well I love the "in dog-training we trust" shirt and getting that soon too :)
@@CamilleGG451 From what I find from watching his videos, He uses "Free" as some trainers use "OK" for their terminal marker. He uses "Yes" for his continuation marker.
@@TarnishedGamer1 Thanks! 😊 I think I'll be using "good" for continuation marker and "yes" for terminal and then I'm thinking a separate word for a release marker from a sit since a sit might be long.... 🤔?
Thanks for the great explanation. I'm been trying to use your techniques with my 10 week old malinois. I've started out simple with the engagement training you've demonstrated in other videos, but he regularly progresses into that crazy maligator play lunging/biting at my clothes and limbs after only a minute or two. Usually to the point that I have to put him in his pen or crate until he calms down, which is frustrating because it completely derails my attempts to make progress with training. Have you experienced rough play-biting that seems to be prompted by training? Also curious what strategies you may use when a pup isn't particularly attentive to you during training? I'm jealous watching all your videos where the puppy stays so focused on you. Have a great day!
Thanks, Chace! If I'm training a puppy that starts biting at me during training, I'll use the leash pressure to place them into the sit. I don't yell or get frustrated. I simply say "sit" and then I cue the dog into the sit. This is cause and effect. The puppy will quickly learn that if the puppy tries to break up the training with play biting, I will then cue the puppy into the sit with the leash. The puppy should stop trying to interrupt the training with play biting if this is done correctly. If the pup isn't attentive to me during the training, then I'll try 1 of 4 things. One; I will try to become more interesting than the environment, two; I'll try to increase the dog's food drive, three; I will take the dog to a less stimulating environment, or four; if the dog is farther in the training, I will correct them with a leash pop if they become distracted. Check out this video on how to properly correct a dog. I hope this helps and thanks for supporting the channel! facebook.com/nathan.schoemer/videos/10213850487672790/
Hi again! I hope I’m not bothering you with too much questions. For 1.I meant reinforcing wanted behaviors and correcting wrong behaviors. As you mentioned I was referring to ‘reinforcing rules and expectations’. 2. If you don’t mind, can you provide a short explanation to how I can make a ‘stronger correction’? I recall the bank account analogy and the speeding ticket analogy in your q&a session video but I can’t find how I can vary(increase) corrections accordingly to the dog. It doesn’t have to be too detailed so please give me some insight on this matter. I will look into your manual you mentioned later on. I appreciate your helpful advice. Have a good day!
Our new puppy (8 week golden retriever) just wants to chew on the leash. Should i just be using food/toys/attention to distract? And only leash a short time? I’m in love with your videos. Thank you!
ola sou do Brasil e passei a acompanhar vc sou adestrador e estou aprendendo muito com vc ,mais nem todos seus vídeos tem legenda em português, se tivesse seria muito bom sou seu fã
Hi Nate, I'm having trouble getting my puppy comfortable with the leash (and touching the collar makes him so nervous), have you done any video about it? Or maybe i can find some material on your other social media platforms?
Make it predict something pleasant. For example; touch the collar, use your marker, then reward your dog. This will teach your dog that touching the collar is a good thing. It's known as counter conditioning. I talk about it in detail in my dog training manual. amzn.to/2P2tyQH%E2%80%8B Here's an example: ua-cam.com/video/2FqRJdmvSPA/v-deo.html I would also suggest checking out my Q&A videos. Just look in the descriptions to see the sections that I talk about dealing with fear based behaviors. ua-cam.com/video/3lBJFcWiAzk/v-deo.html Cheers!
I’ve been doing engagement training since we got him he is 9 weeks we just got him yesterday. I will do spontaneous engagement training training and free shaping throughout the day. I’ve taken him out on a leash. I’ve just never really used leash pressure just yet. Is it ok to use leash pressure even though he is not conditioned to the markers just yet.
Yes. Two things must take place in order for negative reinforcement (leash pressure) to work: • Once the pressure is turned on, it cannot be turned off until the dog complies. • The moment the dog complies, the pressure must immediately be turned off. When doing leash pressure your number one focus should be the pressure. One of the biggest mistakes most people make when doing leash pressure work is not turning the pressure off when the dog complies. This mistake will slow down the progress of the training. When teaching this sometimes it's worthwhile to have someone else watching to help make sure you don't keep the pressure on when the dog complies. Cheers!
No, "free" is my terminal marker. You can learn about my markers in these videos: ua-cam.com/video/naBsieYpLsc/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/DUovsf3OnBU/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/hkh4BRqmH7M/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/UkZ7ucpK9sc/v-deo.html 😁🐶🐕
Hello! I am loving your videos and have been trying to apply them to my almost 4 month old puppy! Problem is the whole leash pressure technique is not working cause he keeps biting the leash thinking is a toy and gets distracted while i am trying to train him! Any tips?
Thanks! Usually, poppy the leash out of the puppy's mouth is enough to stop that behavior. You may have to do it a couple times though before the puppy stops. Leash pop: This is when you make a snapping motion with the dog’s leash to give the dog a correction (a positive-punishment). In addition, proper corrections should not create a fearful dog. Usually fear when correcting a dog is due to the owner being angry, yelling at the dog, or correcting too hard. When we use a correction, it's simple cause and effect. A correction should never be personal and you should never yell at your dog. Once the correction is done, then we praise and reward our dog when they're doing what we like. If your dog knows why he/she is being corrected and knows how to prevent the correction from happening, then you shouldn't create any fear.
@@NateSchoemer Thank you for taking the time to respond! 1st time dog owner so i could use all the help in the world! :) My puppy is a rescue he looks 90% labrador! I have been told he is around 4 months old but i am not sure because he is tiny and weighs 6 kilos (13 pounds), he looks more like a 2 month old puppy to me. The problem i am facing now is that when i try to pop the leash I feel concern about damaging his teeth cause they are really tiny yet he maintains a firm grip on the leash which causes the leash pop to knock him over or displace his position. I am using a thin tube-like leash, would i perhaps achieve better results with a flat leash as it may be harder for him to grip it? Again, thank you and would appreciate any input :D
Would you use pressure to teach a novel Q like sit and down or do you lay it on top once the dog has successfully done it with luring? I feel like lure and reward session first to show concept of body positions followed by the leash pressure session would make more sense to the dog because when they feel the pressure they have a known body position they have history of reward to go to but world love your opinion
Yes, I always like to teach the dog the concept of luring first, so I can use them to help teach the dog leash pressure. It makes the process stress free for the dog if you do it in that order. :)
Pup is 7 mo & already knows sit & have been working on down JUST with luring…you commented on other videos that leash pressure training sometimes works better for the down command (he does the command but only with physical command). Do I need to start completely over teaching sit WITH LEASH PRESSURE, or can I just start with leash pressure like in your video that’s specifically teaching the down command? Hope this is making sense. In other words, where do I start with a dog that already knows sit command without leash pressure?
Hi! A few questions: 1. I only have a harness. Does using a collar matter for teaching the concept of pressure? 2. I’ve taken several walks with my puppy and he seems to do pretty well in the early morning when there are less distractions. But this evening my puppy was so distracted that he wouldn’t listen to a word I say especially when he encounters other dogs. Any advice on how I should act when my puppy is amped up and any suggestions on what I should do to get my puppy to focus in a distracting environment? My puppy does not know what leash pressure is and I just let him roam around wherever he wants on the harness for now.
1. You can teach the dog to respond to leash pressure with the harness, but it won't be as clear as a collar or as reliable. 2. Using the leash pressure will help reinforce the rules and expectations. This is the use of negative reinforcement. With positive reinforcement, the dog has a choice. However, with negative reinforce the dog has no choice but to comply and learn. If that doesn't work, then you may need to use correction. Corrections in dog training is when we are using positive punishment to stop an undesired behavior. First, we must keep in mind that everything our dogs do is based on motivation. The motivation to access something pleasant, or the motivation to prevent something unpleasant. If your dog is practicing a behavior that is fun (self-reinforcing behavior), then you have two options to stop this. One; make sure to prevent the dog from being able to practice the undesired behavior. The second option is to use a correction to stop the behavior. A correction can be anything the dog doesn't like. So in the end, the motivation not to receive the correction must override the motivation to do the undesired behavior. If you use a correction and the undesired behavior continues, then the correction is not high enough. Here's an analogy to help understand this concept. It's important to remember that every dog has their bank account (their correction level). Some dogs are very wealthy, and some are penniless, just like people. Let's say that you are speeding down the highway and a police officer pulls you over and writes you a 25 cent-speeding ticket. The second the officer leaves, you will start speeding again because the ticket wasn't high enough to get you to change your behavior. But let's say he pulls you over and writes you a ten-million-dollar speeding ticket, now it's so high that you will avoid driving altogether, and you will be very stressed out. On the other hand, let's say he pulls you over and writes you a $125 speeding ticket. That would be enough to get you to slow down, without causing you to avoid the behavior of driving altogether. This is what we must do with our dogs; we need to correct them at a level that is adequate to their bank account. If the dog doesn't stop the bad behavior, then you may have to increase the correction. Just be sure to correct the dog in the act. In addition, proper corrections should not create a fearful dog. Usually fear when correcting a dog is due to the owner being angry, yelling at the dog, or correcting too hard. When we use a correction, it's simple cause and effect. A correction should never be personal and you should never yell at your dog. Once the correction is done, then we praise and reward our dog when they're doing what we like. If your dog knows why he/she is being corrected and knows how to prevent the correction from happening, then you shouldn't create any fear. Leash pop: This is when you make a snapping motion with the dog’s leash to engage the training-collar to give the dog a correction (a positive-punishment). If you're using a flat collar and that's not working, then you may need to use a prong collar to stop the behavior. I hope this helps!
I have an Akita he is 10 weeks old. We have done engagement training, taught him the markers. Taught him luring and leash pressure but he is having a hard time with down. Wen I pull the leash down then try to use luring for him to lay down he isn’t gettin it and Sumtimes get frustrated and start to jump around. Do you have any tips? Every other position he is gettin and he will get in pushin before I even pull on the leash to avoid leash pressure but the down he is having trouble. After he gets this I Will be able to add the verbal command.
Some dogs can be more stubborn with the down. Just remember the two most important things when using leash pressure. Once the pressure is turned on, it can not be turned off until the dog complies (even if it takes 30 minutes or more). And once the dog complies, the pressure must immediately be turned off. I've had dogs take a while with this before and if you follow those two rules, then you should find success. I hope that helps and thanks for supporting the channel.
What are your thoughts on prong collars? A trainer I worked with introduced me to one and I know how to properly use it. Would it be appropriate for teaching leash pressure or should I just use a flat? I only ask because my SDiT pulls on her flat but does amazing on a prong.
Hey Travis! Yes, you can use a prong collar to teach leash pressure. However, I always like to start leash pressure with the flat, so when you start the pinch it is an easier learning process for the dog. Cheers! :)
Thx for the detailed explanation! I just want to check if I got your point straight (there are two more questions below as well). My question was how to get my dog focused at all times and what I should do if he gets too hyper; your answer was (a.)I should focus on reinforcing my dogs behavior (through negative reinforcement) (b.)I should properly correct my dog for the inappropriate behavior. My question here: 1. I get that correcting einforcing our dog’s behaviors is the most effective way, but what should I do in situations either my dog or I did not expect? This is to say there can be some cases where I can not prepare my dog for. Should I just try to avoid those situations? 2. You mentioned if the correction isn’t high enough I should increase it. What do you mean by that? Just to say what comes to my mind, telling my dog ‘no’ (which my dog knows this tells him he did the wrong behavior) in a louder voice doesn’t seem the case since you do not recommend yelling at our dogs. Nor does popping the leash harder since it can harm our dogs. I hope you can give me insight on what this means.
1. No, negative reinforcement is not a correction. Check out this video to learn the four quadrants of operant conditioning: ua-cam.com/video/MbsCzDeT3vQ/v-deo.html 2. There is a step by step process that should be followed. I would suggest going through my basic obedience series in order, and reading my dog training manual thats available on amazon. You can also schedule a zoom session with me if you like. www.nateschoemer.com/services 3. Again, I would suggest reading my dog training manual. I cover this in great detail in chapter 8 of the book. Thanks!
Would it be counterproductive to try and teach leash pressure to an 8 year old dog in an effort to eliminate leash pulling OR can these techniques be implemented regardless of the age of the dog?
Not only can it be applied and taught to an older dog, but it's also recommended. It's not natural for a dog to instinctively know how to turn off the pressure on a leash. When we teach it, it gives us another clear way to communicate with our dogs, and it removes the constant tension most dogs feel when on leash. :) Thanks for watching and commenting!
Yes, don't pull too hard. It should be called a leash cue and not leash pressure, because it should be a cue to get your dog to do the desired behaviors, not force. :)
Hi Nate, We just got a GSD and he is 10 weeks old when I attempt to use leash pressure he does not like it and spins around and pulls away he is not very motivated with did as well. What would be a way to correct this behavior without constantly having to pull him to follow me and not pull away?
Hi Gunner, If you are doing leash pressure training, you have to teach the puppy that the only way to turn off the pressure is to go with the pressure, not against it. Some dogs/puppies can be more stubborn with this, but it works on every dog if done correctly. Once they understand the concept of leash pressure, then you no longer have to use any pressure because they know how to follow the guidance from the leash. Two most important things to keep in mind when doing leash pressure training. One; once the pressure is turned on, it can not be turned off until the dog complies. Two; Once they comply the pressure must immediately be released. I hope that helps and if possible, consider supporting my channel. Thanks! :) www.patreon.com/NateSchoemer
Hey, I have a 9 week old german shepherd, we've been trying to do some training with her but are having issues with her just having no interest in food or treats whatsoever. Any tips? Toys work to some extent but she easily looses interest.
Great question and this is why I use mealtime as training time. Meaning, I make the dog/puppy work for every bite. When they work for it, it increases the value of the food. With a puppy, I will often start with a high-quality dry food during the training process. I also usually give the puppy raw goat milk from answers, to help ensure the dog is getting enough quality nutrition. In addition, I train with freeze-dried dog food, but that can be very pricey. Usually, a high-quality kibble will be okay. I transition them to raw when all the main training is completed. However, I do continue to train the dog for the entire life of the dog. It’s just as important and playing and bonding. If you can't get the dog to work for food, then your next option is leash pressure training. I hope that helps and thank you for supporting my work, I really appreciate it. If my training videos have been helpful in any way, consider becoming a patron to help support my channel. My goal is to improve the quality of life for all dogs by educating those who care for them. Your support helps me focus on that mission every day! www.patreon.com/NateSchoemer
@@NateSchoemer if you wouldn't mind a follow up, she's kinda grown in to training with food but i'm curious about your opinion on the kibble we use. See link: www.carnilove.co.uk/product/salmon-turkey-puppy/
So let me get this straight, the correct order for training a new command would be: 1- lure the dog into position (later we can introduce leash pressure) 2- once the position is done, say terminal marker (dog must already have full knowledge of how both terminal and continuation markers work) 3- give treat 4- once the position/trick is done perfectly, it's time to name the command (ex. Sit, down, etc.) 5- we can now use both terminal and continuation markers to begin to practice the implicit "stay" in every position Note: I have another quick question in the 4th step, must the trick/position be done perfectly also in speed? This doubt came out when you mentioned this puppy being slow precisely bc he is a puppy... So does that mean I can't name the command until he does fast and beautifully like a grown dog? Or can I name it one it's done without hesitation and work up the speed as the dog grows older?
Step one: Find what motivated the dog. (toy or food) Step two: Teach the markers (conditioned reinforcers) with engagement training. Step 3: Teach the behavior using luring, leash pressure, or fixed shaping. Step 4: Once you can get the dog to do the behavior every time with the physical cue, then you can put a command on it. The command can be verbal or physical (as with service dog training). The order must always be Command (physical or verbal), Motivate (luring, leash pressure, or fixed shaping.), then reward or mark within a second of the dog completing the behavior, If you marked, then the last step is to reward. Step 5: develop reliability by implementing corrections. For speed, I like to name the command for my dogs when they are doing it the way that I like. If it is still slow or sloppy, then I don't name it. If you have a slow command, you can always rename it when the dog is older.
I've noticed our puppy gets super distracted when we are outside (smells, noise, etc) and she won't pay attention to kibble as much now. She does fine when we are inside, any tips
You have a few options. 1) Correct the dog for not focusing. 2) bring her out to train, the moment she looses interest, put her in her crate and don't feed her. Then try again later. Continue to do this process until you get the focus that you would prefer. 3) Make sure the training is more reliable in a neutral environment. Check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/RStYnOzAcQ0/v-deo.html
i'm watching what you're doing, and i can't quite make out what "free" indicates. you apply pressure to get him to sit, and then you say free.. does that release him from his sit or?
Yes, "free" is his terminal marker. You can learn more about the markers in this video: ua-cam.com/video/UkZ7ucpK9sc/v-deo.html Thanks for the question and for supporting the channel. :)
Lol! Try using food to help with the training. Also, be sure not to turn off the pressure until your dog complies. Thanks for supporting the channel. :)
Hi, Brian. Just think of what the word predicts. Continuation marker only predicts a reward, while the terminal marker predicts a release and reward. If our dogs are not in a commanded position and we use the continuation marker, it doesn't make it a stay command. It's just telling them they are going to get a treat. For the terminal marker I only move back to encourage the dog to come and get the reward in the beginning when I am conditioning them to the marker. Once they know it is a release and reward, then you no longer have to make them come get the reward, you can hand it directly to them if you like. so if I say down and my dog lays down, I can then say free and hand the food to my dog. At that point my dog knows they can get up from the down position. I hope that helps and thank you for supporting my work, I really appreciate it.
Thanks for pointing that out John. Someone else mentioned the same thing in one of my other videos, so I'm trying to increase the volume now before uploading. Cheers! :)
Man, you are a character out of a story, full of secret knowledge, jumping out of the woods when we most need. Thanks for everything!
Lol! Thank you! :)
You are the absolute best dog training educator I've come across. I wish I had found you sooner!
Wow, thank you! :)
Dam you are by far my new favorite trainer dude, these videos are gold. And is that a 10th planet t-shirt?! OSS
Thanks, Michael! And yes, that is a 10th planet shirt! :) OSS!
You are the best, I bought your book as well and I am seeing improvements in my dog.
Thanks! I really appreciate that. Send me an email in about a week or so and I'll send you a free copy of version 3 of the manual once it's ready. NateSchoemer@gmail.com
fantastic lesson structure... you're a great teacher to men and dogs
Thank you, I appreciate that!
I feel like you were holding back on snuggles you wanted to give him hehe. Great vid thank you.
Lol! Thanks!
Hi Nat I have been using leash pressure for training my Labrador puppy. He is 5 months old now and the leash pressure technique is so helpful. He is complying wonderfully. I use it in lots of areas. His size is not a problem because he eases up and does what I want without any struggles. Thanks so much.
Awesome! I'm happy the video has been helpful. Thanks for sharing. :)
Thank you. Very helpful video!
Thanks, I appreciate that! :)
Amazing!! I also have a golden retriever puppy, 18 weeks haha :) going to try this exercise later today!
Awesome! Best of luck!
10th Planet!! Looking at those arms differently now
Lol! Oss!
I am enjoying these videos so much that I am actually considering getting myself a dog. 😂
Excelente conteúdo, muito obrigado.
Abraços de Brasil.
Thanks!
Hi Nate, just found your channel and loving all the information. Been watching through your videos in this playlist from ep 1 and got to this one and it mentioned using leash pressure to teach heel. It wasn't in the video and i cant see it in any of the headings for future videos in this playlist. There is an episode missing, number 27 so im not sure wether it was in there or if its in a future video? Watching through the whole playlist before i get my rottweiler x de bordeaux in 8 weeks then again when i get him. Also anywhere i can donate to support your channel 👌 cheers
Thank you, Corey! I really appreciate that. You can see it in this video. ua-cam.com/video/qPD_aVl7pdE/v-deo.html Thanks again for supporting my work. www.patreon.com/NateSchoemer Cheers!
@@NateSchoemer Awsome, thanks heaps for getting back to me mate 👌.
Great sessions and these are quite helpful, Nate. My sis recommended these videos and now am hooked/ have started using these techniques on my 4 month Labrador. It’s already showing results, thank you. One specific question I have is around the sitting posture. My lab has got into a habit of folding one of the back legs when he sits. Am using the marker and reward only when he does the right posture but is there another way to get him to sit correctly?
Thanks, Amit! You can always try using a shaping box. This is my go-to if I need to fix a dogs posture in a static position. ua-cam.com/video/Xb8iiI2Q7Xk/v-deo.html
Nate I’ve watched your video on markers probably 4-5 times but this video has me questioning my understanding again. As I understood it, the terminal marker is to signal the dog that the command is complete and they are released to come/go get their treat, but you use it in this video with no movement from the dog following it. I would expect you to use your continuation marker in this case. What am I not understanding? While I have your ear, in your video on free shaping you kept referencing your continuation marker. Would that always be the case?
Your videos are the most useful out there! Do you have a way for us to support you?
Thanks, Cody! Just think of what the word predicts. Continuation marker predicts a reward, while the terminal marker predicts a release and reward. I only move back to encourage the dog to come and get the reward in the beginning when I am conditioning them to the marker. Once they know it is a release and reward, then you no longer have to make them come get the reward, you can hand it directly to them if you like. so if I say down and my dog lays down, I can then say free and hand the food to my dog. At that point my dog knows they can get up from the down position. I hope this helps! If you would like to support my channel, I do have a patreon account. www.patreon.com/NateSchoemer. Thank you again! 😁🙏🐶🐕
@Nate Schoemer
Wonderful video as always Nate and thanks for this reply as I had the same question!
So... you are using "free" like how many use "yes!", is that correct? Free and yes both being terminal markers?
And... if a dog is walking nicely on leash can you use your continuation marker with the reward being that the dog gets to keep walking? Or better to also give treat AND contined walking? Let me guess- treat and continued steps in beginning, fade out to just walking as the reward once fluid? 😄 TIA!
(Just subscribed to your patreon so now I can buy you one cup of coffee a month in exchange for the insane amt of info you give out for free. Yeah, that seems even! 🙄😄 (Well I love the "in dog-training we trust" shirt and getting that soon too :)
@@CamilleGG451 From what I find from watching his videos, He uses "Free" as some trainers use "OK" for their terminal marker. He uses "Yes" for his continuation marker.
@@TarnishedGamer1 Thanks! 😊 I think I'll be using "good" for continuation marker and "yes" for terminal and then I'm thinking a separate word for a release marker from a sit since a sit might be long.... 🤔?
Thanks for the great explanation. I'm been trying to use your techniques with my 10 week old malinois. I've started out simple with the engagement training you've demonstrated in other videos, but he regularly progresses into that crazy maligator play lunging/biting at my clothes and limbs after only a minute or two. Usually to the point that I have to put him in his pen or crate until he calms down, which is frustrating because it completely derails my attempts to make progress with training. Have you experienced rough play-biting that seems to be prompted by training? Also curious what strategies you may use when a pup isn't particularly attentive to you during training? I'm jealous watching all your videos where the puppy stays so focused on you. Have a great day!
Thanks, Chace! If I'm training a puppy that starts biting at me during training, I'll use the leash pressure to place them into the sit. I don't yell or get frustrated. I simply say "sit" and then I cue the dog into the sit. This is cause and effect. The puppy will quickly learn that if the puppy tries to break up the training with play biting, I will then cue the puppy into the sit with the leash. The puppy should stop trying to interrupt the training with play biting if this is done correctly. If the pup isn't attentive to me during the training, then I'll try 1 of 4 things. One; I will try to become more interesting than the environment, two; I'll try to increase the dog's food drive, three; I will take the dog to a less stimulating environment, or four; if the dog is farther in the training, I will correct them with a leash pop if they become distracted. Check out this video on how to properly correct a dog. I hope this helps and thanks for supporting the channel! facebook.com/nathan.schoemer/videos/10213850487672790/
Doggo had a little “hebegeebee” lols
Lol!
Hi again! I hope I’m not bothering you with too much questions.
For 1.I meant reinforcing wanted behaviors and correcting wrong behaviors. As you mentioned I was referring to ‘reinforcing rules and expectations’.
2. If you don’t mind, can you provide a short explanation to how I can make a ‘stronger correction’? I recall the bank account analogy and the speeding ticket analogy in your q&a session video but I can’t find how I can vary(increase) corrections accordingly to the dog. It doesn’t have to be too detailed so please give me some insight on this matter.
I will look into your manual you mentioned later on. I appreciate your helpful advice. Have a good day!
Yes, I would suggest checking out the manual. I have an entire chapter on using and understanding correction in dog training. :)
WHat is your opinion on use of harness in training?
Harnesses are great when you want your dog to pull. I use harnesses for confidence building and protection training. :)
Our new puppy (8 week golden retriever) just wants to chew on the leash. Should i just be using food/toys/attention to distract? And only leash a short time? I’m in love with your videos. Thank you!
Just pop the leash out of his mouth when he goes to chew on it. That works on most puppies that try to chew on the leash. :)
ola sou do Brasil e passei a acompanhar vc sou adestrador e estou aprendendo muito com vc ,mais nem todos seus vídeos tem legenda em português, se tivesse seria muito bom sou seu fã
Obrigada! Vou tentar ativar as opções de legenda em episódios futuros. Saúde!
Hi Nate, so we can introduce leash pressure before we have the behaviours named?
Yes. :)
@@NateSchoemer Perfect, thanks!
What type of collar do you recommend for puppies for this type of training?
A flat or martingale collar will work. :)
I've trained horses for many years with the "teach what you release" theory. Does that apply also with dogs??
Thank you
From what I have been told, the training concepts are very similar. :)
Hi Nate, I'm having trouble getting my puppy comfortable with the leash (and touching the collar makes him so nervous), have you done any video about it? Or maybe i can find some material on your other social media platforms?
Make it predict something pleasant. For example; touch the collar, use your marker, then reward your dog. This will teach your dog that touching the collar is a good thing. It's known as counter conditioning. I talk about it in detail in my dog training manual. amzn.to/2P2tyQH%E2%80%8B
Here's an example: ua-cam.com/video/2FqRJdmvSPA/v-deo.html
I would also suggest checking out my Q&A videos. Just look in the descriptions to see the sections that I talk about dealing with fear based behaviors. ua-cam.com/video/3lBJFcWiAzk/v-deo.html
Cheers!
@@NateSchoemer Thanks, much appreciated!
Do u have any dog recommendations for a service dog besides a retriever and lab? Would corgi's be a good breed? I don't want a big dog lol
I really like corgi's. However, any dog can be a service dog. :)
Is my dog suposed to look to my hands right after a use a marker?
It's fine that your dog looks at your hand after you use your marker, as long as your dog is doing what you like when you say the marker. :)
@@NateSchoemer ok, thank u Nte
What age is the puppy when this was filmed please??
I'm not sure, it was a while back, but I would guess around 12 weeks of age.🐶🐕
I’ve been doing engagement training since we got him he is 9 weeks we just got him yesterday. I will do spontaneous engagement training training and free shaping throughout the day. I’ve taken him out on a leash. I’ve just never really used leash pressure just yet. Is it ok to use leash pressure even though he is not conditioned to the markers just yet.
Yes. Two things must take place in order for negative reinforcement (leash pressure) to work:
• Once the pressure is turned on, it cannot be turned off until the dog complies.
• The moment the dog complies, the pressure must immediately be turned off.
When doing leash pressure your number one focus should be the pressure. One of the biggest mistakes most people make when doing leash pressure work is not turning the pressure off when the dog complies. This mistake will slow down the progress of the training. When teaching this sometimes it's worthwhile to have someone else watching to help make sure you don't keep the pressure on when the dog complies. Cheers!
So free is your release word for everything so if mine is ok i say ok to let him know he can leave position
No, "free" is my terminal marker. You can learn about my markers in these videos: ua-cam.com/video/naBsieYpLsc/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/DUovsf3OnBU/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/hkh4BRqmH7M/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/UkZ7ucpK9sc/v-deo.html 😁🐶🐕
Hello! I am loving your videos and have been trying to apply them to my almost 4 month old puppy! Problem is the whole leash pressure technique is not working cause he keeps biting the leash thinking is a toy and gets distracted while i am trying to train him! Any tips?
Thanks! Usually, poppy the leash out of the puppy's mouth is enough to stop that behavior. You may have to do it a couple times though before the puppy stops.
Leash pop: This is when you make a snapping motion with the dog’s leash to give the dog a correction (a positive-punishment).
In addition, proper corrections should not create a fearful dog. Usually fear when correcting a dog is due to the owner being angry, yelling at the dog, or correcting too hard. When we use a correction, it's simple cause and effect. A correction should never be personal and you should never yell at your dog. Once the correction is done, then we praise and reward our dog when they're doing what we like. If your dog knows why he/she is being corrected and knows how to prevent the correction from happening, then you shouldn't create any fear.
@@NateSchoemer Thank you for taking the time to respond! 1st time dog owner so i could use all the help in the world! :) My puppy is a rescue he looks 90% labrador! I have been told he is around 4 months old but i am not sure because he is tiny and weighs 6 kilos (13 pounds), he looks more like a 2 month old puppy to me. The problem i am facing now is that when i try to pop the leash I feel concern about damaging his teeth cause they are really tiny yet he maintains a firm grip on the leash which causes the leash pop to knock him over or displace his position. I am using a thin tube-like leash, would i perhaps achieve better results with a flat leash as it may be harder for him to grip it? Again, thank you and would appreciate any input :D
Would you use pressure to teach a novel Q like sit and down or do you lay it on top once the dog has successfully done it with luring? I feel like lure and reward session first to show concept of body positions followed by the leash pressure session would make more sense to the dog because when they feel the pressure they have a known body position they have history of reward to go to but world love your opinion
Yes, I always like to teach the dog the concept of luring first, so I can use them to help teach the dog leash pressure. It makes the process stress free for the dog if you do it in that order. :)
@@NateSchoemer great. Thx for reply
What is that raised bed cot for?
I use it as a command. Check out this video to see how to teach it to your dog: ua-cam.com/video/-mbA_Lwpz_0/v-deo.html :)
What dose free mean
I know you mentioned a martingale collar in the equipment video; so are you using martingales anytime you're talking about leash pressure?
That or a normal flat collar will work as well. :)
@@NateSchoemer Okay, Thanks for the reply! And thanks so much for the best training videos around! Seriously....I’ve watched plenty!
Pup is 7 mo & already knows sit & have been working on down JUST with luring…you commented on other videos that leash pressure training sometimes works better for the down command (he does the command but only with physical command). Do I need to start completely over teaching sit WITH LEASH PRESSURE, or can I just start with leash pressure like in your video that’s specifically teaching the down command? Hope this is making sense. In other words, where do I start with a dog that already knows sit command without leash pressure?
Hi! A few questions:
1. I only have a harness. Does using a collar matter for teaching the concept of pressure?
2. I’ve taken several walks with my puppy and he seems to do pretty well in the early morning when there are less distractions. But this evening my puppy was so distracted that he wouldn’t listen to a word I say especially when he encounters other dogs. Any advice on how I should act when my puppy is amped up and any suggestions on what I should do to get my puppy to focus in a distracting environment?
My puppy does not know what leash pressure is and I just let him roam around wherever he wants on the harness for now.
1. You can teach the dog to respond to leash pressure with the harness, but it won't be as clear as a collar or as reliable.
2. Using the leash pressure will help reinforce the rules and expectations. This is the use of negative reinforcement. With positive reinforcement, the dog has a choice. However, with negative reinforce the dog has no choice but to comply and learn.
If that doesn't work, then you may need to use correction. Corrections in dog training is when we are using positive punishment to stop an undesired behavior. First, we must keep in mind that everything our dogs do is based on motivation. The motivation to access something pleasant, or the motivation to prevent something unpleasant. If your dog is practicing a behavior that is fun (self-reinforcing behavior), then you have two options to stop this. One; make sure to prevent the dog from being able to practice the undesired behavior. The second option is to use a correction to stop the behavior. A correction can be anything the dog doesn't like. So in the end, the motivation not to receive the correction must override the motivation to do the undesired behavior.
If you use a correction and the undesired behavior continues, then the correction is not high enough. Here's an analogy to help understand this concept. It's important to remember that every dog has their bank account (their correction level). Some dogs are very wealthy, and some are penniless, just like people. Let's say that you are speeding down the highway and a police officer pulls you over and writes you a 25 cent-speeding ticket. The second the officer leaves, you will start speeding again because the ticket wasn't high enough to get you to change your behavior. But let's say he pulls you over and writes you a ten-million-dollar speeding ticket, now it's so high that you will avoid driving altogether, and you will be very stressed out. On the other hand, let's say he pulls you over and writes you a $125 speeding ticket. That would be enough to get you to slow down, without causing you to avoid the behavior of driving altogether. This is what we must do with our dogs; we need to correct them at a level that is adequate to their bank account. If the dog doesn't stop the bad behavior, then you may have to increase the correction. Just be sure to correct the dog in the act.
In addition, proper corrections should not create a fearful dog. Usually fear when correcting a dog is due to the owner being angry, yelling at the dog, or correcting too hard. When we use a correction, it's simple cause and effect. A correction should never be personal and you should never yell at your dog. Once the correction is done, then we praise and reward our dog when they're doing what we like. If your dog knows why he/she is being corrected and knows how to prevent the correction from happening, then you shouldn't create any fear.
Leash pop: This is when you make a snapping motion with the dog’s leash to engage the training-collar to give the dog a correction (a positive-punishment). If you're using a flat collar and that's not working, then you may need to use a prong collar to stop the behavior.
I hope this helps!
I have an Akita he is 10 weeks old. We have done engagement training, taught him the markers. Taught him luring and leash pressure but he is having a hard time with down. Wen I pull the leash down then try to use luring for him to lay down he isn’t gettin it and Sumtimes get frustrated and start to jump around. Do you have any tips? Every other position he is gettin and he will get in pushin before I even pull on the leash to avoid leash pressure but the down he is having trouble. After he gets this I Will be able to add the verbal command.
Some dogs can be more stubborn with the down. Just remember the two most important things when using leash pressure. Once the pressure is turned on, it can not be turned off until the dog complies (even if it takes 30 minutes or more). And once the dog complies, the pressure must immediately be turned off. I've had dogs take a while with this before and if you follow those two rules, then you should find success. I hope that helps and thanks for supporting the channel.
What are your thoughts on prong collars? A trainer I worked with introduced me to one and I know how to properly use it. Would it be appropriate for teaching leash pressure or should I just use a flat?
I only ask because my SDiT pulls on her flat but does amazing on a prong.
Hey Travis! Yes, you can use a prong collar to teach leash pressure. However, I always like to start leash pressure with the flat, so when you start the pinch it is an easier learning process for the dog. Cheers! :)
Nate Schoemer Thanks man!
Thx for the detailed explanation! I just want to check if I got your point straight (there are two more questions below as well).
My question was how to get my dog focused at all times and what I should do if he gets too hyper; your answer was (a.)I should focus on reinforcing my dogs behavior (through negative reinforcement) (b.)I should properly correct my dog for the inappropriate behavior.
My question here: 1. I get that correcting
einforcing our dog’s behaviors is the most effective way, but what should I do in situations either my dog or I did not expect? This is to say there can be some cases where I can not prepare my dog for. Should I just try to avoid those situations?
2. You mentioned if the correction isn’t high enough I should increase it. What do you mean by that? Just to say what comes to my mind, telling my dog ‘no’ (which my dog knows this tells him he did the wrong behavior) in a louder voice doesn’t seem the case since you do not recommend yelling at our dogs. Nor does popping the leash harder since it can harm our dogs. I hope you can give me insight on what this means.
1. No, negative reinforcement is not a correction. Check out this video to learn the four quadrants of operant conditioning: ua-cam.com/video/MbsCzDeT3vQ/v-deo.html
2. There is a step by step process that should be followed. I would suggest going through my basic obedience series in order, and reading my dog training manual thats available on amazon. You can also schedule a zoom session with me if you like. www.nateschoemer.com/services
3. Again, I would suggest reading my dog training manual. I cover this in great detail in chapter 8 of the book.
Thanks!
Would it be counterproductive to try and teach leash pressure to an 8 year old dog in an effort to eliminate leash pulling OR can these techniques be implemented regardless of the age of the dog?
Not only can it be applied and taught to an older dog, but it's also recommended. It's not natural for a dog to instinctively know how to turn off the pressure on a leash. When we teach it, it gives us another clear way to communicate with our dogs, and it removes the constant tension most dogs feel when on leash. :) Thanks for watching and commenting!
Is it possible to tug on the chain to hard and i end up hurting my pups neck?
Yes, don't pull too hard. It should be called a leash cue and not leash pressure, because it should be a cue to get your dog to do the desired behaviors, not force. :)
Cool thanks for all the advice. Iv watched most of your vids, I still need to get to some tho
Hi Nate,
We just got a GSD and he is 10 weeks old when I attempt to use leash pressure he does not like it and spins around and pulls away he is not very motivated with did as well. What would be a way to correct this behavior without constantly having to pull him to follow me and not pull away?
Hi Gunner, If you are doing leash pressure training, you have to teach the puppy that the only way to turn off the pressure is to go with the pressure, not against it. Some dogs/puppies can be more stubborn with this, but it works on every dog if done correctly. Once they understand the concept of leash pressure, then you no longer have to use any pressure because they know how to follow the guidance from the leash. Two most important things to keep in mind when doing leash pressure training. One; once the pressure is turned on, it can not be turned off until the dog complies. Two; Once they comply the pressure must immediately be released. I hope that helps and if possible, consider supporting my channel. Thanks! :) www.patreon.com/NateSchoemer
What age should you start doing this with your puppy
www.tiktok.com/@nateschoemer/video/7069562226528537899?is_copy_url=1&is_from_webapp=v1
So if you dont have food, does he not follow you ?
Yes, they do. Watch my entire basic obedience series to learn how, or order my dog training manual. Thanks!
Should I do leash pressure training first or luring first?
I like to do luring first, then leash pressure. You can use luring to help make the training of the leash pressure much easier. 😁🐶🐕
Hey,
I have a 9 week old german shepherd, we've been trying to do some training with her but are having issues with her just having no interest in food or treats whatsoever.
Any tips? Toys work to some extent but she easily looses interest.
Great question and this is why I use mealtime as training time. Meaning, I make the dog/puppy work for every bite. When they work for it, it increases the value of the food. With a puppy, I will often start with a high-quality dry food during the training process. I also usually give the puppy raw goat milk from answers, to help ensure the dog is getting enough quality nutrition. In addition, I train with freeze-dried dog food, but that can be very pricey. Usually, a high-quality kibble will be okay. I transition them to raw when all the main training is completed. However, I do continue to train the dog for the entire life of the dog. It’s just as important and playing and bonding. If you can't get the dog to work for food, then your next option is leash pressure training.
I hope that helps and thank you for supporting my work, I really appreciate it. If my training videos have been helpful in any way, consider becoming a patron to help support my channel. My goal is to improve the quality of life for all dogs by educating those who care for them. Your support helps me focus on that mission every day! www.patreon.com/NateSchoemer
@@NateSchoemer if you wouldn't mind a follow up, she's kinda grown in to training with food but i'm curious about your opinion on the kibble we use. See link:
www.carnilove.co.uk/product/salmon-turkey-puppy/
So let me get this straight, the correct order for training a new command would be:
1- lure the dog into position (later we can introduce leash pressure)
2- once the position is done, say terminal marker (dog must already have full knowledge of how both terminal and continuation markers work)
3- give treat
4- once the position/trick is done perfectly, it's time to name the command (ex. Sit, down, etc.)
5- we can now use both terminal and continuation markers to begin to practice the implicit "stay" in every position
Note: I have another quick question in the 4th step, must the trick/position be done perfectly also in speed? This doubt came out when you mentioned this puppy being slow precisely bc he is a puppy... So does that mean I can't name the command until he does fast and beautifully like a grown dog? Or can I name it one it's done without hesitation and work up the speed as the dog grows older?
Step one: Find what motivated the dog. (toy or food)
Step two: Teach the markers (conditioned reinforcers) with engagement training.
Step 3: Teach the behavior using luring, leash pressure, or fixed shaping.
Step 4: Once you can get the dog to do the behavior every time with the physical cue, then you can put a command on it. The command can be verbal or physical (as with service dog training). The order must always be Command (physical or verbal), Motivate (luring, leash pressure, or fixed shaping.), then reward or mark within a second of the dog completing the behavior, If you marked, then the last step is to reward.
Step 5: develop reliability by implementing corrections.
For speed, I like to name the command for my dogs when they are doing it the way that I like. If it is still slow or sloppy, then I don't name it. If you have a slow command, you can always rename it when the dog is older.
I've noticed our puppy gets super distracted when we are outside (smells, noise, etc) and she won't pay attention to kibble as much now. She does fine when we are inside, any tips
You have a few options.
1) Correct the dog for not focusing.
2) bring her out to train, the moment she looses interest, put her in her crate and don't feed her. Then try again later. Continue to do this process until you get the focus that you would prefer.
3) Make sure the training is more reliable in a neutral environment. Check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/RStYnOzAcQ0/v-deo.html
@@NateSchoemer Thank you so much! I'll try that
oss
oss! :)
i'm watching what you're doing, and i can't quite make out what "free" indicates. you apply pressure to get him to sit, and then you say free.. does that release him from his sit or?
Yes, "free" is his terminal marker. You can learn more about the markers in this video: ua-cam.com/video/UkZ7ucpK9sc/v-deo.html Thanks for the question and for supporting the channel. :)
whats this puppy ???
Golden retriever. :)
Me
Thanks for commenting! :)
Why are you using the word 'free' when the pup complies and not the word 'yes'?
For the dogs I train, Yes = Reward and Free = Release and Reward.
Man when I put a leash on my puppy he planted his butt, looked up at me and said, "Move me b***h, I dare you."
Lol! Try using food to help with the training. Also, be sure not to turn off the pressure until your dog complies. Thanks for supporting the channel. :)
Nate I'm noticing you are using "free" rather than "yes" (even when you are not having the dog to come get the treat). Why "free" instead of "yes?"
Hi, Brian. Just think of what the word predicts. Continuation marker only predicts a reward, while the terminal marker predicts a release and reward. If our dogs are not in a commanded position and we use the continuation marker, it doesn't make it a stay command. It's just telling them they are going to get a treat. For the terminal marker I only move back to encourage the dog to come and get the reward in the beginning when I am conditioning them to the marker. Once they know it is a release and reward, then you no longer have to make them come get the reward, you can hand it directly to them if you like. so if I say down and my dog lays down, I can then say free and hand the food to my dog. At that point my dog knows they can get up from the down position. I hope that helps and thank you for supporting my work, I really appreciate it.
Is the volume really low or is it just me?
Thanks for pointing that out John. Someone else mentioned the same thing in one of my other videos, so I'm trying to increase the volume now before uploading. Cheers! :)
Sigh ... yet another perfectly focussed puppy who can do it all already.
Lol! I'll be doing another video on leash pressure soon with Spock the Collie puppy. :)