I love the fact that you left your mistakes in. It makes me feel better about messing up myself when trying these things, to think that somebody who is adept as you are can also get it wrong from time to time. You just own up and then correct the error and carry on as before. Great! I'm really enjoying your videos. Thanks for putting it all out there.
ABSOLUTELY! It's SO important for people to know that, as it encourages everyone since they don't have a (non-existent) "perfect" trainer to strive to become!
Nate you should have millions of followers - by following your methods my soon to be 4 month old Australian Shepherd is so far ahead of the game compared to other puppies I see in puppy class. I always recommend Nate when people ask me how come he is trained so well and he still a bundle of fun.
I don't know how many times you have heard this, but I REALLY appreciate your channel. Your videos have seriously helped improve my abilities to train and I'm sure my dogs are just as thankful as I am! THANK YOU NATE!
I used this method with my 10 week old male Aussie Shepherd- it worked brilliantly - he enjoys walks and so do I. I think it makes the rest of training easier and a lot more fun. It feels like we have developed a great partnership. He is a very determined headstrong puppy - by eliminating the struggle he has nothing to rebel against.
I discovered your channel and use many tips for my white shepherd. Your videos are rare. Because you're not about marketing but about dog training. Best regards from Germany. Stay healthy.
Nate, you’ve got the perfect format for your training videos. They are short enough, yet so straightforward that I can focus and then go train it. Works like a charm. We have progressed so much. You explain things so well.😊
HI Nate I spoke to you on the phone once getting onto the list to get in your program. You had encouraged me to follow up with any questions. I wasn't sure if I should do that through your website. Anyway, here goes. My 1 y/o lab loved to play fetch and it was a great way to burn off his energy and we had fun--past tense. After about 6 months of daily fun he began to not want to drop the ball and bring it back but not drop it. He (then began chewing it and eat a tennis ball so we switched to sticks.) Now he is good for about 1-3 fetches and then holds onto it and chews on it. He gets very jacked up and excited. He will run around me and nearby in the yard and also seems to get a bit aggressive with my other fetching lab by growling a bit. I don't think he will attack but I can not get him to drop it. I can't pry it. I can't let him get bored. I can't do leash pressure. I can't offer food, even a hunk of meat. He becomes extremely fixated on retaining the stick. If I try using the "drop it" command he will growl and bark and scamper around even more excitedly. I have also tried making him sit and wait to try to calm him and recruit a delay of gratification. What can I do? Thanks so much, Brian
Hi Nate, thanks so much for all your videos. Really helps me with my puppy tons. Would be great if you can show us how we can advance this skill into fetch and grab specific items.
Could you do a video on teaching ‘drop it’ for a service dog-in-training who is not allowed to jump on people? Now also pretend you’re 71-years-old and have had 6 spinal fusions. 😉 How would you modify what you’re doing to still get a reliable drop it? Btw, my pup is a 15-month-old Golden. Thank you!
You can use food for the value transfer or you can also use the leash pressure technique that I demonstrated in the video. Doing the steps in this video should also help: ua-cam.com/video/xkXxw1q-Ut4/v-deo.html Cheers! :)
Hello Nate! Thank you for this video! It has been so helpful in training my mastiff to let go of the toy, especially when others want to play with him in order to bond as he fearful of new people. Do you have any tips for preventing the dog from accidentally biting your hands? He just gets so excited sometimes with a toy and his jaws are strong. Thank you again, your videos are so well put together and great to follow.
Thanks! You just have to be carful the dog doesn't bite your hand or re-bite on your hand. Using a tug toy will usually help keep your hands safe. Just don't let the pup bite the handles. :)
Hi, just found your channel yesterday! Loving it so far :) In one of your videos, you had mentioned putting your hand to the dogs chest to teach a bow, but I saw you doing the same thing to teach stand. Would you mind doing a video where you explain the difference between the two?
Hi Leslie, Thanks for the kind words, I really appreciate it. Yes, I will be explaining it more in a future video on how to teach your dog to bow. It's going to be part of my trick dog series! :)
I wish I could find the way how I could get all these training sessions with Nate himself. If I’m going to spend thousands of dollars on becoming a dog trainer, I certainly do not want video trainings. I want to be there, to learn quickly and well. In all the videos I've watched, (hours and hours and hours again I’ve watched different videos) it's Nate's training and approach that I prefer. If only I could find a way to communicate with him directly, this would be the pinnacle for me! But unfortunately, I'm not capable of finding him no where 😢
Nate@NateSchoemer.com Cheers! Also, If you want to take your training to the next level, I would suggest becoming a channel member for $1.99 a month. I release videos on occasions just for channel members. In fact, I just released a detailed five in a half hour course for my channel members. Check it out and let me know what you think. Thanks! ua-cam.com/video/2U9eoKv6MmE/v-deo.htmlsi=zGtQKo7qRArCPB5H
@@NateSchoemer Hello! I will become a channel member and I’ll check this out, but I certainly would prefer to have live training. So after viewing the private channel, I will take my decision. Thank you so much!
I've only recently came across you channel and a love it also is I'm assuming that Charlie is your dog and is already trained to drop it that was just a demonstration
Thanks Tom, I really appreciate that. Yes, Charlie and Arih are both my dogs and both already knew the drop it command before filming this video. I've used this technique on dozens of dogs and it has always worked. However, with any command, some dogs would figure it out with ease and others would make it a little more difficult. Lol!
@@NateSchoemer yeah😂😂thanks for replying too not my people bother. Also I have a 4 year old labradoodle and he is a well behaved dog but sometimes doesn't come when called any tips
How would you teach a resource guarding dog the drop it command. Let's say they're new to a home so the trust has not been built but they get ahold of items and the humans need them to drop it. Approaching makes the dog lunge and bite...where would you start?
Hi Nate, Thanks for making the basic obedience series. I am getting a German Shepherd puppy soon and I have watched the entire series as a prep as I plan to do obedience training and scent detection with him. I had a few questions: 1. I have seen puppies getting over excited when playing tug-of-war. How can I know how much is too much and how should I end the play session. 2. I have seen you using a "break" command in many videos. I vaguely understand how it works but would like more info about it. Mainly how can I teach my dog break command and in what situations to use it.
Hi, Rachit! Thanks for reaching out and for supporting the channel. As far as tug play goes, it depends on if you are training your dog for protection or a protection sport. If it's for a protection sport, then I would suggest joining a local club and working them directly. They will show you the techniques that will work best for your dog and that specific sport. If it's just for play, then I would just have fun with the puppy and let them win a lot with the tug. When I want to take the toy away, I lift the pup up, so they can drop the toy. Later I teach the drop it command. Check out my puppy biting video to see how I take the toy away, without creating any conflict. Also, check out my video on everything you need to know when training a puppy. The links are below. Puppy Biting Video: ua-cam.com/video/IAfafjM6XyM/v-deo.html Everything you need to know when training a puppy: ua-cam.com/video/OvdKDE326gs/v-deo.html Below are links to the 4 main protection sports in the US. If there's a club near you, then it will be in these links. French Ring Protection Sport: www.ringsport.org/index.php?pg=clubs IPO Protection Sport: www.germanshepherddog.com/events-new/ Protection Sport Association: psak9-as.org/psa-affiliated-club-list/ Mondioring Protection Sport: www.usmondioring.org/clubs/ I hope this helps. Cheers! 😁🐶🐕
Your videos are by far the best I have found!!! So I’ve been working on down and then watched video on having dog walk backwards but she just lays. Any suggestions? Thank you
This is a great channel! My Australian Cattle Dog takes the treats with such enthusiasm that he bites me unless is say "doux," (French for gentle, or soft). If I don't say "doux" as I pull out the reward, he hurts me with his bite.
Thanks for sharing! If he's aggressively biting at the food, then a trick is to hold the food in your fist. if he tries biting at the food, then the hand stays closed. Once he's being gentle, then slowly start to open the hand. Instantly close it again, if he starts to bite too hard. Repeat until he knows that he needs to take the food nicely. The idea is basic cause and effect. I hope this helps!
How do you do it if your dog won't play and doesn't like toys (unless they are covered in peanut butter (then only for the duration of the butter)??????
Is there a video of u showing how u make her jump back at you with the toy to continue play? It looks super fun! Or is it something she just does naturally
Usually if you walk backwards with your hands up, most dogs will jump up to place the toy in your hand. You can see an example in this video at 1:41 ua-cam.com/video/z24bfcXLXVI/v-deo.html Cheers!
@@NateSchoemer wouldn’t u know, i tried the trick i’ve seen u do where u fall on ur back when ur puppy ripps the toy out of my hands by shaking. And it worked to an extent! Except im pretty sure he’s going for my face at that point
Yes! I will most certainly make a video on building toy/ball drive. Thank you for the recommendation. :) The dog that jumps right up from the down is a good one too! In the meantime, teach the dog the down command using leash pressure and then treat the down stay the same way as the climb stay that I teach in my stay video. When the dog gets up from the down-stay, say one no and then calmly place the dog back into the down using the leash pressure. Continue to do this until the dog is no longer jumping up. Hope this helps! :) ua-cam.com/video/s5iD8eN89bo/v-deo.html
My pleasure. I always start teaching the behaviors first by using food with luring, shaping, and leash pressure training. Once the behavior is taught and I'm no longer using continual reinforcement, then I can start using toys to reinforce and reward behaviors. My prerequisite for using toys in training is: 1) The dog needs to know the commanded behavior it's being asked to perform. 2) The dog needs to know how to properly play tug or fetch (whichever style of play I plan on rewarding with, depending on the dog). 3) The dog needs to have a solid drop it command. Check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/3LYCO9ITmqk/v-deo.html I hope this is helpful. If so, consider becoming a member of my UA-cam Channel. For only $1.99 a month, you'll receive priority responses to comments, access to live Q&As for members only, custom emojis, badges, and you'll help me continue making great dog training content. Sign up here: ua-cam.com/users/nateschoemerjoin Cheers!
@@NateSchoemer such a gentleman mate thanks for the great reply, you have my members sub! I’ve watched the long video showing how to train everything so many times it’s absolutely priceless the quality of it! I think I’ve just jumped the gun abit and will go back to basics tonight without bringing the toys out lol I’m at the luring and shaping stage but he’s got little motivation for food that’s why I jumped ahead and got him all crazy for toys 🧸 tomorrow I won’t feed him breakfast until we’ve done at least some luring and he can get his toys after. Again thanks a lot mate I’ll keep you updated with my pup 🐶
when i stop moving and still not letting go of the item, my dog still thinks we're playing. as long as there's tension on the item and he can pull he thinks it's still playing. how do I convey that my stopping means i'm not playing anymore cause I think this lesson would only work if the dog thinks I'm not playing anymore? should I let go of the item or would that send a different message? also note my puppy is only 5 months old. am i expecting too much out of him at his age? i see so many training videos but they all seem to use older dogs.
Hey Ken, great question! First, let's talk about the puppies age. I like to start training a puppy as early as 8 weeks of age, so 5 months is not too young. However, I would avoid playing too much tug when the puppy is teething. You just want to be sure that the puppy doesn't have an unpleasant experience with play. Each dog is different though and some won't care that they are teething and would still want to play, just be aware of that. If holding the tug isn't working, you can try letting go of the tug and then showing the puppy that the tug you have is way more fun than the tug he has. He'll most likely drop his and come play with the one you have. Don't worry, it won't send the wrong message to the dog. In fact, I should have also suggested this option in the video. It will also most likely increase your dog's confidence. Just don't say the drop it command, before you know you can get your dog to release the toy. It should go like this; you're playing with the dog, then you release the toy. After you release the toy, you bring out the new toy. When your puppy lets go of the old toy, mark with the terminal marker, and reward with the new toy. Once you know your puppy will drop the toy every time with this physical cue, then you can name it. It should go as follows; you're playing tug with the puppy, then you release the toy. Once you release the toy, then say your drop it command. After you say your drop it command, then bring out the new toy. You have to say your drop it command before you bring out the new toy and after you let go of the old toy. Continue this until he releases the old toy on the verbal command alone. I hope this helps and thanks for supporting the channel! :)
@@NateSchoemer Wow thank you! I didn't think you'd actually respond. The thing is if I let go of the toy, he'll just take it and play with it on his own. However, I tried your food method and it worked. I literally tried the same method a month ago and he didn't want to let to but I decided to try it again and now he is letting go. Not always but it's a start. Still the biting is a problem. I hope he stops that as soon as he's done teething. His teeth just started coming off. Or is that something I need to train him not to do? Again, thanks so much. I'm using your videos to try and get a more obedient puppy. It's hard to make him not do things. He likes doing things but not not not doing things.
I'm happy to help. Most dogs stop puppy bitting as they get older. However, if you want to stop it, there are three common techniques to accomplish this. One; when he goes to bite, say one no and then give him a correction using the leash and training collar. Two; redirect him to a different toy (that doesn't teach him to stop biting, it simply redirects the dog). Three; in this video I explain option three: facebook.com/1691543827794708/videos/2022324658049955/
If you don’t already have one can you please make a video on how to reinforce that out command my dog currently has a really strong out however under a little bit of pressure he tends to regrip or hold on instead of outing . I understand the concept of that out and maybe working him with a different pillow teaching him that once he outs the game continues but for some reason when it comes to bite work he tends to hold onto it a little bit more intensely is that possibly because the decoy is not completely still?
The more drive the dog has towards the reward, the more difficult it could be to build a reliable out. If I'm having issues with an out, I go back a few steps to make sure the command is very strong. If the dog still refuses to out, then you may need to use a correction. Remember, everything our dogs do is based on motivation. The motivation to access something pleasant, or the motivation to prevent something unpleasant. If your dog is practicing a behavior that is fun (self-reinforcing behavior), then you have two options to stop this. One; make sure to prevent the dog from being able to practice the undesired behavior. The second option is to use a correction to stop the behavior. A correction can be anything the dog doesn't like. So in the end, the motivation not to receive the correction must override the motivation to do the undesired behavior. If you use a correction and the undesired behavior continues, then the correction is not high enough. Here's an analogy to help understand this concept. It's important to remember that every dog has their bank account (their correction level). Some dogs are very wealthy, and some are penniless, just like people. Let's say that you are speeding down the highway and a police officer pulls you over and writes you a 25 cent-speeding ticket. The second the officer leaves, you will start speeding again because the ticket wasn't high enough to get you to change your behavior. But let's say he pulls you over and writes you a ten-million-dollar speeding ticket, now it's so high that you will avoid driving altogether, and you will be very stressed out. On the other hand, let's say he pulls you over and writes you a $125 speeding ticket. That would be enough to get you to slow down, without causing you to avoid the behavior of driving altogether. This is what we must do with our dogs; we need to correct them at a level that is adequate to their bank account. If the dog doesn't stop the bad behavior, then you may have to increase the correction. Just be sure to correct the dog in the act. I hope that helps and thank you for supporting my work, I really appreciate it.
Thanks for the video firstly. My GSD puppy 5 month old when he takes treats while on the move like that always gets some teeth on my treating hand when he comes to get the treat. How do I teach him to get the treat without putting his teeth on my hand.
Nice video once again. We have a Welsh Corgi Pembroke witch is 15 months old. He loves to play with toys. The only problem is weather we play outside or inside the house, he loves to tease us by fetching the toy but backing up just out of reach when he should give the toy up. He finds thos most rewarding sort of play. Most times when we get the toy we throw it again to him and he rushes to fetch it. The toy is much more valuable than food, same goes for other toys, which ever he has at the time is the best. What should we do?
Thanks! I would use a long line and praise him all the way back to me. Once he get's to me, I would play tug and let him win. This will increase his confidence and he'll want to come back for more play. I would continue to do this until I no longer need the long line. You can see an example in this video: ua-cam.com/video/ipRm9ebHgjo/v-deo.html Cheers! :)
What do you recommend for a puppy that knows "drop it," but only drops it if she wants to? I taught my puppy "drop it" by playing with a tug toy and she always complies bc she knows she'll get it back by complying. However, when it really matters (when she is trying to eat something that can hurt her such as rocks, bark, etc., which my backyard is full of) she doesn't comply. I have been having to pry things out of her mouth so that she doesn't get intestinal blockages, but now that she knows I will take it from her, she has taken to running around excitedly as if it's a game. I almost never can get to her before she swallows it. I can't afford to have my backyard landscaped to remove all the rocks (which are all throughout the soil.) So now when I say drop it, she runs unless we're playing a game & she knows she'll get the toy back. Our backyard is a pretty decent size, too, so she's often too far away from me when she gets something. I've tried to offer toys or food in exchange for the forbidden item, but she doesn't seem to like any of those things once she is determined to eat rocks or bark. She is a 4 month old doberman pinscher.
We have an 8 wk old shepherd lab mix. He gets way too excited about food to register anything... Is 10 to 12 weeks old a better time to start training? Obviously bite inhibition and leash and collar training will be happening...what do you recommend? Ideally I would love to train him to assist my husband who has ms type difficulies
Thanks for the question. I would start training the puppy right away. The sooner the better. Puppies imprinting stage is the first 16 weeks of the puppies life. What they learn and experience during that time can stick with them for life. So lots of confidence-building and try to be sure that the puppy doesn't have any bad experiences during that time. It's okay if he's getting really excited about food. Use this as an opportunity to get him to lure into all the different positions you want him to perform, like sit, down, stand, come, etc. He may not even realize what he's doing, but it'll help in the long run. My lab Charlie was the same when he was a puppy. Also, use the continuation marker more than the terminal marker for him. The terminal marker can increase a dogs food drive because it also incorporates prey and play drive. Hope this helps and thanks for supporting the channel! :)
@@NateSchoemer thanks! I actually got him to focus on my eyes now with my hands full of food in either hand. I was very impressed. Now he knows meal times are learning times! He's a very confident dog I think...processes everything. I had to give him a bath which was a bad experience for him (he got oil on him) but after, he marched back in and gave the tub a good long look all on his own. Should I praise him for that? I hope I didn't wreck him for life on water...We live where there are lots of lakes. Hoping I can survive the ankle shark stage...learning that it's like a baby crying, it almost always goes away if he gets what he needs. Thanks again, I'll keep watching!
Thanks for the question Nikki. A word only means to a dog what it predicts. For example; If you said no every-time before you gave your dog a treat, then no would become a conditioned reinforcer (marker) to your dog. You can make the word "no" mean whatever you like. Let me know what you want "no" to mean to your dogs and I'll explain how you can do that. :)
Nate Schoemer i want it to stop my puppy from what he’s doing, most importantly from biting too hard and chewing on things he shouldn’t. i’m not sure if that’s too general for one command or not though.
That's actually how I start teaching the "no" word to my dogs. I have it predict leash pressure to stop the dog from doing whatever they are currently doing. For example, if my dog jumped on someone, I would say one no and then I would use the leash pressure to pull the dog off of the person. Once all four paws are back on the ground, I would praise and reward them. For chewing on things, I would again say one no and use the leash pressure to cue the dog into a sit, which would cause them to stop chewing. Same with breaking a stay command. If you do this correctly, no will mean to stop what they are doing or to go back to the previous position, like a sit-stay. Check out these two videos, to see what I'm talking about. :) ua-cam.com/video/9L8tK7mSD10/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/s5iD8eN89bo/v-deo.html
Question: I am training my dog to attack and for that reason I need it to stop biting on command But does that still mean that I don’t take the toy from him every time I say out?
Correct. Often during protection training, I'll tell the dog to "out". The moment they release the bite, I will quickly move to trigger a re-bite. This is a great way to reward the dog for quickly releasing the bite on command. I hope that helps and thank you for supporting my work, I really appreciate it. If my training videos have been helpful in any way, consider becoming a patron to help support my channel. My goal is to improve the quality of life for all dogs by educating those who care for them. Your support helps me focus on that mission every day! www.patreon.com/NateSchoemer
Hey Barron, Thanks for the support and question. From my experience, using leash pressure to teach loose leash walking is the fastest way with very little stress if any for the dog. However, if you don't like to use leash pressure then your next best option is to have something of higher value than the environment. Remember, dogs will always choose whatever is most motivating. This means if your dog's favorite thing in the world is rabbits and your neighborhood is filled with rabbits, then good luck trying to get that dog not to pull using only reward-based training. This is why pure positive only dog trainers will use a super high value treat like cooked chicken or steak when teaching loose leash walking. They are hoping that the dog will be more interested in the cooked meat than the environment. If the dog still chooses the environment over the cooked meat, the trainer will skip the dog's meal and try again later. If the dog is still more interested in the environment, then they will skip another meal. They will continue to do this until the dog chooses the cooked meat over the environment. Once you get the dog to show more interest in the food, then you continue to reward the dog with small bites to keep the dog's attention on you and not everything else that's going on around him. You would continue to do this until the dog develops the habit to walk with a loose leash. This way takes way longer but can work if you're patient enough. I hope this helps and thanks again! :)
@@NateSchoemer The downside of this method is that some dogs will starve themselves and always choose a certain distraction over food. That is why many positive only trainers give up on a dog when it consistently won't take the cooked steak or chicken bribery over the distraction and the positive only method doesn't work.
Hi Nate, I would really appreciate your help. My dog's "drop it" is reasonable when we are playing with his own toys. However, when we are out on walks he loves to steal other dog's balls! I can't get them off him no matter what, he is very aware that these are not 'his' and I think that is part of the fun for him. Do you have any tips on improving drop it for this issue? I have been working on his "leave it" too, again great at home and on walks when it is animal/human/cow poo related but when it's another dog's ball/stick he just can't resist.
You'll most likely have to correct the behavior to stop the dog from practicing it. Corrections in dog training is when we are using positive punishment to stop an undesired behavior. First, we must keep in mind that everything our dogs do is based on motivation. The motivation to access something pleasant, or the motivation to prevent something unpleasant. If your dog is practicing a behavior that is fun (self-reinforcing behavior), then you have two options to stop this. One; make sure to prevent the dog from being able to practice the undesired behavior. The second option is to use a correction to stop the behavior. A correction can be anything the dog doesn't like. So in the end, the motivation not to receive the correction must override the motivation to do the undesired behavior. If you use a correction and the undesired behavior continues, then the correction is not high enough. Here's an analogy to help understand this concept. It's important to remember that every dog has their bank account (their correction level). Some dogs are very wealthy, and some are penniless, just like people. Let's say that you are speeding down the highway and a police officer pulls you over and writes you a 25 cent-speeding ticket. The second the officer leaves, you will start speeding again because the ticket wasn't high enough to get you to change your behavior. But let's say he pulls you over and writes you a ten-million-dollar speeding ticket, now it's so high that you will avoid driving altogether, and you will be very stressed out. On the other hand, let's say he pulls you over and writes you a $125 speeding ticket. That would be enough to get you to slow down, without causing you to avoid the behavior of driving altogether. This is what we must do with our dogs; we need to correct them at a level that is adequate to their bank account. If the dog doesn't stop the bad behavior, then you may have to increase the correction. Just be sure to correct the dog in the act. In addition, proper corrections should not create a fearful dog. Usually fear when correcting a dog is due to the owner being angry, yelling at the dog, or correcting too hard. When we use a correction, it's simple cause and effect. A correction should never be personal and you should never yell at your dog. Once the correction is done, then we praise and reward our dog when they're doing what we like. If your dog knows why he/she is being corrected and knows how to prevent the correction from happening, then you shouldn't create any fear. Leash pop: This is when you make a snapping motion with the dog’s leash to engage the training-collar to give the dog a correction (a positive-punishment). If you're using a flat collar and that's not working, then you may need to use a prong collar to stop the behavior. I hope this helps!
Hi Nate, my dog sometimes takes something off the ground that she shouldn't have, and won't drop it, even on command. She runs around and thinks it's a game. What can I do?
Set her up to make the mistake and then correct her with a training collar if she chooses not to listen. Once she drops the item, praise and reward her. :)
Hello! I’m trying to teach my GSD these techniques but what are the treats you use? Ut up hot dogs are too slippery when handling in 2 hands. The treats you use, is that just dog kibble?
Hey! Thanks for the question! I usually will use one of three types of treats. Freeze-dried treats are my first pick, then sliced hot dogs, last is kibble such as Orijen. Hope this helps!
Such a fun video to watch! Are tug games & rough housing w your dog a good idea if he has aggressive tendencies? I have a new 2 y.o. rescue (pit/lab mix) & he’s aggressive w people :/ I can’t get near ANYBODY. He is quick to attack. I believe it’s fear based. I would love your HELP or LA based references if you have any : )
I’m trying to follow your videos with my 8 week old GSD puppy. I can’t get him to leave ANYTHING alone. My shoes, the door stop, my clothes I’m wearing, everything. He also keeps biting my ankles, feet and hands. I tried to transfer his attention to a toy but it didn’t work. Should I say “off” or ignore? I mean...this was day one. Any suggestions?
Check out this video on "How to introduce a new puppy into your home" ua-cam.com/video/n4DKorjXyaQ/v-deo.html and here's a video on how to stop a puppy from biting: facebook.com/NateSchoemer/videos/924429067997276/ I hope this helps and thanks for supporting the channel! :)
been watching all your videos and found it very helpful... i want to ask if i can reset all my commands using your techniques.. my mallinois is 9month old. thank you!
Nate, I love your videos and they have helped tons already. 3 questions... 1) can I play too rough with my dog? I have a 5 month old german shepherd / pit mix and she loves to play rough and is very vocal. I don't want to create a habit I have to break later but she is most engaged when I'm wrestling with her. 2) how do you get Charlie and Ari so engaged? They look anxious for you to give them a command and truly look like they love training. (my dog is very food motivated but, at best, tolerates the down command, for example) How long did it take to get to that level of engagement or is it just their personality? 3) my dog leads with her paws and has unintentionally scratched faces just because she is exited. Any suggestions there? Nothing like dog nails to the face when waking up... Thanks and keep up the great work!
Hey Douglasazo! Thanks for the kind words and great questions! When it comes to playing rough with your dog, you decide what's okay and what's not. I tell people that it's not a problem unless it's a problem. For example; I let my dogs sleep on my bed and I've never had an issue, but if my dogs started to resource guard my bed from me, then it's an issue and would need to be corrected. I also play rough with my dogs and they love it! I'm just always careful not to be too rough so I don't accidentally hurt my dog. A big part of Charlie's and Arih's engagement with me is genetics, but a lot is also from training. I always make training as fun as possible and I never allow myself to get frustrated during training. If I do start to get frustrated because my dog isn't learning or performing as well as I would like, I simply stop training. You always want to train when you're in a good mood and never in a bad mood. I also do a few minutes of engagement training before every training session. This builds the habit of staying engaged. Now for the last question. It sounds like she is hitting you with her paws in the morning and she sleeps in bed with you. If that's the case, just restrict the top portion of the bed from her. Only allow her to sleep on the bottom half of the bed. If she tries to come to the top of the bed, just treat the bottom half of the bed as a stay. Meaning, if she starts to come to the top half of the bed, say one no and then calming put her back at the bottom half of the bed. Check out my stay video to learn how to do this. I hope this helps and thanks again! ua-cam.com/video/s5iD8eN89bo/v-deo.html
@@NateSchoemer thank you and thanks for responding. Bella sleeps right beside my bed and jumps up, leading with front paws, when she's excited or is trying to wake me up to go outside. She's not big enough or strong enough yet to make it up on the bed (but I have as feeling that's coming) My question is more how do I correct something that happens when I'm asleep or just waking up. She still does jump up on us and new people when meeting them...maybe I should start there. Thoughts?
You can try setting her up to fail, so you can correct her when she makes the mistake. For example; act like you are sleeping and when she acts out the behavior, you'll be ready to reinforce what you want. Also, stopping her from jumping on people can help with the issue. It's very easy to teach as well. Tell people that are meeting her, that they can pet her as long as all four paws are on the ground. The moment she jumps up, they have to stop petting. When she jumps up, you will say one no and then use leash pressure to pull her off of whoever she jumped on. Once all four paws are back on the ground, they can go back to petting her. I hope that helps. :)
I also wanted to ask on your potty training video what if after saying “no” after setting them up to fail they continue to urinate/defecate etc? Should you place them outside? Repeat no? Put them in their crate if they do not potty after taking them outside?
Great question! Send me an email with your number and I'll give you a call to explain the best way to deal with this situation. Thanks! NateSchoemer@gmail.com
Hey! Thanks for visiting and supporting my channel. I'm not sure if you would be able to handle a Malinois or not, but I only recommend Malinois to people that have a plan for the dog. Meaning, they are training the dog for a sport such as french ring or IPO, they plan on using the dog for search and rescue training, or scent detection. The main point is that the Malinois is not a "pet" type of dog. They are working dogs and need to be treated as such. If that's your plan, then a Malinois may work for you. If you want a working dog like the Malinois, but easier to handle, then I would suggest a GSD. Just make sure you have a local professional trainer to help you along the way. I know good trainers throughout the US, so let me know if you need a recommendation. Cheers! :)
Great video :-) How hard and confusing is it for dogs if I change commands? I’ve been teaching my dog(just turned 1) “out”, but I might want to change to “drop” because I want to use “out” command for something else. Is it a very bad thing to do for a dog? Thank you so much Nate!
Thanks! You, can teach your dog multiple commands for one behavior. In fact, a lot of trainers will do this if they are trying to fix something like a lazy down. Instead of trying to fix the down command, they just reteach the behavior with a new command. It's usually a much easier process that way. :)
1. Can you kink this toy? 2. My dog doesn't quite down hard enough 3. My dog often will take the toy and go sit alone during tug She is a 9mo old German Shepherd / Husky mix How can I increase this drive and wanting to engage with me?
I made the mistake of attempting guard dog training without my dog being even 50% obedient. I use a three foot 4 inch rope, but she will let go as soon as I calmly say "okay, leave it". She knows she'll get it back. This is my first dog, and I wanted to teach her protection due to us living in a shady neighborhood. I know now that teaching her attack whilst being 50% or less obedient is a very bad thing.. it could be a liability. But I was trying to be smart about it. I didn't just pick up a toy and teach her to be aggressive (she isn't aggressive whatsoever) . I did however teach her that if a fist is made and pulled back towards my gf she will jump 4-5 feet to attack a bare arm (can't afford a sleev) so now if I'm being calm hugging my gf shaking her hand being nice.. somebody can walk away and if they turn back to go towards her my dog will not let go of a wrist or arm without her or my say so.. I only wish I knew as much as I did now before I got her and was given barbaric advice on how to quote dicaplen and correct behavior. Sadly that's all I knew within her primal moments of life, smacking her butt, holding down and biting ear.. I regret it so much. As a result she'll randomly get timid when I pet her as if I'm going to hurt her. But that was the only information I had so that's what if did. It wasnt until I did research that I broke down crying because I knew how wrong I was treating this incredible animal. She does show that she loves me. She just clearly doesn't trust me as well as my gf. Our dog wants her to teach her, so my 1000+ hours of research is only handy when she feels like letting me teach her how to train. I do most of the training. But our dog has two owners and prefers her.
Thanks for your comment and sharing. When learning how to be a dog trainer, everyone makes mistakes. All we can do is continue to learn and improve, so we can do better by our dogs. :)
I know this is an absurd request but I’d love if you could make a video on teaching your dog to retrieve things from the fridge. I understand breaking down the basics but how would I name a command for a series of behaviors? Such as grab a soda from the fridge.
I don’t understand this at all in a lot of these videos. All the training is done with food so in order for the dog to do a command, you give him a treat once the dog learns command or you still giving him treats. How do you train a dog without treats and why do you use treats to train a dog?
I wish these videos would be made with a dog who isn't obviously already trained for the behavior. Sure, it makes the trainer look great, but it's not very helpful when trying to learn to teach this to a dog who's never done it. Show us with a dog who's having trouble understanding the concept, not one who is already perfect at it.
I'm really impressed with your neighbor's orange tree.
Lol!
🤣🤣🤣🤣same here
🤣🤣 👍🏽
Lol
Ha.
I love the fact that you left your mistakes in.
It makes me feel better about messing up myself when trying these things, to think that somebody who is adept as you are can also get it wrong from time to time.
You just own up and then correct the error and carry on as before. Great!
I'm really enjoying your videos.
Thanks for putting it all out there.
Thanks, I appreciate that! Yes, sometimes seeing the mistakes can help people learn more than always seeing the perfect picture. :)
ABSOLUTELY! It's SO important for people to know that, as it encourages everyone since they don't have a (non-existent) "perfect" trainer to strive to become!
I could fall in love with this man solely based on the pure joy on his face whilst playing with dogs.
Thank you for the kind words. :)
Nate you should have millions of followers - by following your methods my soon to be 4 month old Australian Shepherd is so far ahead of the game compared to other puppies I see in puppy class. I always recommend Nate when people ask me how come he is trained so well and he still a bundle of fun.
Thank you, I appreciate that! :)
Finally someone explaining it in a practical easy way
Thanks! I'm happy the video was helpful. Cheers!
I don't know how many times you have heard this, but I REALLY appreciate your channel.
Your videos have seriously helped improve my abilities to train and I'm sure my dogs are just as thankful as I am!
THANK YOU NATE!
Thank you! That means a lot and it makes me happy that the videos are proving to be helpful. Cheers!
I used this method with my 10 week old male Aussie Shepherd- it worked brilliantly - he enjoys walks and so do I. I think it makes the rest of training easier and a lot more fun. It feels like we have developed a great partnership. He is a very determined headstrong puppy - by eliminating the struggle he has nothing to rebel against.
That's awesome! Great job!
I discovered your channel and use many tips for my white shepherd. Your videos are rare. Because you're not about marketing but about dog training. Best regards from Germany. Stay healthy.
Thanks, I really appreciate that and I'm happy the training videos are proving to be helpful. Cheers! :)
I liked the fact that your included the many methods to achieve the Drop and explained why for each
Thanks! I'm happy it was helpful! :)
What a sweetheart charlie is so adorable!
Nate, you’ve got the perfect format for your training videos. They are short enough, yet so straightforward that I can focus and then go train it. Works like a charm. We have progressed so much. You explain things so well.😊
Still can't thank you enough! Bishop is doing Great! Starting this and your leave it training next week.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing and I'm happy the videos are helping! :)
You're a great trainer and your videos are easy to follow. Thanks mate
Thank you again! I appreciate that!
HI Nate I spoke to you on the phone once getting onto the list to get in your program. You had encouraged me to follow up with any questions. I wasn't sure if I should do that through your website. Anyway, here goes. My 1 y/o lab loved to play fetch and it was a great way to burn off his energy and we had fun--past tense. After about 6 months of daily fun he began to not want to drop the ball and bring it back but not drop it. He (then began chewing it and eat a tennis ball so we switched to sticks.) Now he is good for about 1-3 fetches and then holds onto it and chews on it. He gets very jacked up and excited. He will run around me and nearby in the yard and also seems to get a bit aggressive with my other fetching lab by growling a bit. I don't think he will attack but I can not get him to drop it. I can't pry it. I can't let him get bored. I can't do leash pressure. I can't offer food, even a hunk of meat. He becomes extremely fixated on retaining the stick. If I try using the "drop it" command he will growl and bark and scamper around even more excitedly. I have also tried making him sit and wait to try to calm him and recruit a delay of gratification. What can I do? Thanks so much, Brian
Muy buena ebseñanza. Gracias teacher
Thank you! :)
We learn so much sir
Thanks! I'm happy the videos are helpful. Cheers!
Nice job mr. I like your truthful attitude with the dog. Your enjoyment with your dog really comes thru, it creates happy dogs 🐕
Thanks Benny, I really appreciate your kind words and for supporting my channel! :)
I LIVE for that Charlie energy omg
Lol! He's the best! :)
I am from India. recently I watched your many videos. it's really awesome man...
Awesome! Thank you, I appreciate that! :)
Best dog training channel.
Wow, thank you!
Thank you so much for teaching us sir Nate…i appliedit alreadyto my student puppy
My pleasure. Cheers!
I'm addicted to your videos! You are amazing!!!
Hi Nate, thanks so much for all your videos. Really helps me with my puppy tons.
Would be great if you can show us how we can advance this skill into fetch and grab specific items.
Very helpful! Thanks Nate!
Thanks! :)
Great instruction, Nate. Thank you.
Thank you, Kristen! :)
Leash Pressure training video no longer available. What do? :(
Could you do a video on teaching ‘drop it’ for a service dog-in-training who is not allowed to jump on people? Now also pretend you’re 71-years-old and have had 6 spinal fusions. 😉 How would you modify what you’re doing to still get a reliable drop it? Btw, my pup is a 15-month-old Golden. Thank you!
You can use food for the value transfer or you can also use the leash pressure technique that I demonstrated in the video. Doing the steps in this video should also help: ua-cam.com/video/xkXxw1q-Ut4/v-deo.html
Cheers! :)
Great work sir.
Thank you! Cheers!
Hello Nate! Thank you for this video! It has been so helpful in training my mastiff to let go of the toy, especially when others want to play with him in order to bond as he fearful of new people.
Do you have any tips for preventing the dog from accidentally biting your hands? He just gets so excited sometimes with a toy and his jaws are strong.
Thank you again, your videos are so well put together and great to follow.
Thanks! You just have to be carful the dog doesn't bite your hand or re-bite on your hand. Using a tug toy will usually help keep your hands safe. Just don't let the pup bite the handles. :)
Hi, just found your channel yesterday! Loving it so far :)
In one of your videos, you had mentioned putting your hand to the dogs chest to teach a bow, but I saw you doing the same thing to teach stand. Would you mind doing a video where you explain the difference between the two?
Hi Leslie, Thanks for the kind words, I really appreciate it. Yes, I will be explaining it more in a future video on how to teach your dog to bow. It's going to be part of my trick dog series! :)
Your are awesome 🙌
Thank you! You rock! 😁🙏🐶🐕
Lovely, thanks heaps!
You're welcome and thanks for supporting the channel.
I wish I could find the way how I could get all these training sessions with Nate himself. If I’m going to spend thousands of dollars on becoming a dog trainer, I certainly do not want video trainings. I want to be there, to learn quickly and well. In all the videos I've watched, (hours and hours and hours again I’ve watched different videos) it's Nate's training and approach that I prefer. If only I could find a way to communicate with him directly, this would be the pinnacle for me! But unfortunately, I'm not capable of finding him no where 😢
Nate@NateSchoemer.com Cheers! Also, If you want to take your training to the next level, I would suggest becoming a channel member for $1.99 a month. I release videos on occasions just for channel members. In fact, I just released a detailed five in a half hour course for my channel members. Check it out and let me know what you think. Thanks! ua-cam.com/video/2U9eoKv6MmE/v-deo.htmlsi=zGtQKo7qRArCPB5H
@@NateSchoemer
Hello! I will become a channel member and I’ll check this out, but I certainly would prefer to have live training. So after viewing the private channel, I will take my decision.
Thank you so much!
I've only recently came across you channel and a love it also is I'm assuming that Charlie is your dog and is already trained to drop it that was just a demonstration
Thanks Tom, I really appreciate that. Yes, Charlie and Arih are both my dogs and both already knew the drop it command before filming this video. I've used this technique on dozens of dogs and it has always worked. However, with any command, some dogs would figure it out with ease and others would make it a little more difficult. Lol!
@@NateSchoemer yeah😂😂thanks for replying too not my people bother. Also I have a 4 year old labradoodle and he is a well behaved dog but sometimes doesn't come when called any tips
For sure, check out this video on the come when called command: ua-cam.com/video/huFE7HbOFGQ/v-deo.html :)
How would you teach a resource guarding dog the drop it command. Let's say they're new to a home so the trust has not been built but they get ahold of items and the humans need them to drop it. Approaching makes the dog lunge and bite...where would you start?
Hi Nate,
Thanks for making the basic obedience series. I am getting a German Shepherd puppy soon and I have watched the entire series as a prep as I plan to do obedience training and scent detection with him. I had a few questions:
1. I have seen puppies getting over excited when playing tug-of-war. How can I know how much is too much and how should I end the play session.
2. I have seen you using a "break" command in many videos. I vaguely understand how it works but would like more info about it. Mainly how can I teach my dog break command and in what situations to use it.
Hi, Rachit! Thanks for reaching out and for supporting the channel. As far as tug play goes, it depends on if you are training your dog for protection or a protection sport. If it's for a protection sport, then I would suggest joining a local club and working them directly. They will show you the techniques that will work best for your dog and that specific sport. If it's just for play, then I would just have fun with the puppy and let them win a lot with the tug. When I want to take the toy away, I lift the pup up, so they can drop the toy. Later I teach the drop it command. Check out my puppy biting video to see how I take the toy away, without creating any conflict. Also, check out my video on everything you need to know when training a puppy. The links are below.
Puppy Biting Video: ua-cam.com/video/IAfafjM6XyM/v-deo.html
Everything you need to know when training a puppy: ua-cam.com/video/OvdKDE326gs/v-deo.html
Below are links to the 4 main protection sports in the US. If there's a club near you, then it will be in these links.
French Ring Protection Sport: www.ringsport.org/index.php?pg=clubs
IPO Protection Sport: www.germanshepherddog.com/events-new/
Protection Sport Association: psak9-as.org/psa-affiliated-club-list/
Mondioring Protection Sport: www.usmondioring.org/clubs/
I hope this helps. Cheers! 😁🐶🐕
Thanks for the reply, Nate. I'll definitely check all those links out.
Thanks for this video
My Pleasure! and thanks for supporting the channel! :)
Nice job 👏 👍
Your videos are by far the best I have found!!! So I’ve been working on down and then watched video on having dog walk backwards but she just lays. Any suggestions? Thank you
Thanks! Yes, check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/uFlFmCghWxU/v-deo.html
This is a great channel! My Australian Cattle Dog takes the treats with such enthusiasm that he bites me unless is say "doux," (French for gentle, or soft). If I don't say "doux" as I pull out the reward, he hurts me with his bite.
Thanks for sharing! If he's aggressively biting at the food, then a trick is to hold the food in your fist. if he tries biting at the food, then the hand stays closed. Once he's being gentle, then slowly start to open the hand. Instantly close it again, if he starts to bite too hard. Repeat until he knows that he needs to take the food nicely. The idea is basic cause and effect. I hope this helps!
@@NateSchoemer That's brilliant! Thank you so much!
Thank❤🌹 u Sir🙏🥰
Thank you! 🙏😁🐶🐕
I love when a true dog professional shows they’re human
8:13 Good thinking
How do you do it if your dog won't play and doesn't like toys (unless they are covered in peanut butter (then only for the duration of the butter)??????
Where did you get that tug toy
I got it on amazon here: amzn.to/4d2emc4
Is there a video of u showing how u make her jump back at you with the toy to continue play? It looks super fun! Or is it something she just does naturally
Usually if you walk backwards with your hands up, most dogs will jump up to place the toy in your hand. You can see an example in this video at 1:41 ua-cam.com/video/z24bfcXLXVI/v-deo.html
Cheers!
@@NateSchoemer as my puppy is still very young i should probably not expect this from him yet, im sure it’ll come!
@@NateSchoemer wouldn’t u know, i tried the trick i’ve seen u do where u fall on ur back when ur puppy ripps the toy out of my hands by shaking. And it worked to an extent! Except im pretty sure he’s going for my face at that point
Can you maybe do a video on how to build ball drive or stop a dog that jumps right up from a down?
Yes! I will most certainly make a video on building toy/ball drive. Thank you for the recommendation. :) The dog that jumps right up from the down is a good one too! In the meantime, teach the dog the down command using leash pressure and then treat the down stay the same way as the climb stay that I teach in my stay video. When the dog gets up from the down-stay, say one no and then calmly place the dog back into the down using the leash pressure. Continue to do this until the dog is no longer jumping up. Hope this helps! :) ua-cam.com/video/s5iD8eN89bo/v-deo.html
@@NateSchoemer thank you so much!!!
Another great vid nate! Do you have any tips for my dobie he’s 18weeks and wants his tug or ball way more than any food I can find for him lol
My pleasure.
I always start teaching the behaviors first by using food with luring, shaping, and leash pressure training. Once the behavior is taught and I'm no longer using continual reinforcement, then I can start using toys to reinforce and reward behaviors.
My prerequisite for using toys in training is:
1) The dog needs to know the commanded behavior it's being asked to perform.
2) The dog needs to know how to properly play tug or fetch (whichever style of play I plan on rewarding with, depending on the dog).
3) The dog needs to have a solid drop it command.
Check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/3LYCO9ITmqk/v-deo.html
I hope this is helpful. If so, consider becoming a member of my UA-cam Channel. For only $1.99 a month, you'll receive priority responses to comments, access to live Q&As for members only, custom emojis, badges, and you'll help me continue making great dog training content.
Sign up here: ua-cam.com/users/nateschoemerjoin
Cheers!
@@NateSchoemer such a gentleman mate thanks for the great reply, you have my members sub! I’ve watched the long video showing how to train everything so many times it’s absolutely priceless the quality of it! I think I’ve just jumped the gun abit and will go back to basics tonight without bringing the toys out lol I’m at the luring and shaping stage but he’s got little motivation for food that’s why I jumped ahead and got him all crazy for toys 🧸 tomorrow I won’t feed him breakfast until we’ve done at least some luring and he can get his toys after. Again thanks a lot mate I’ll keep you updated with my pup 🐶
when i stop moving and still not letting go of the item, my dog still thinks we're playing. as long as there's tension on the item and he can pull he thinks it's still playing. how do I convey that my stopping means i'm not playing anymore cause I think this lesson would only work if the dog thinks I'm not playing anymore? should I let go of the item or would that send a different message? also note my puppy is only 5 months old. am i expecting too much out of him at his age? i see so many training videos but they all seem to use older dogs.
Hey Ken, great question! First, let's talk about the puppies age. I like to start training a puppy as early as 8 weeks of age, so 5 months is not too young. However, I would avoid playing too much tug when the puppy is teething. You just want to be sure that the puppy doesn't have an unpleasant experience with play. Each dog is different though and some won't care that they are teething and would still want to play, just be aware of that. If holding the tug isn't working, you can try letting go of the tug and then showing the puppy that the tug you have is way more fun than the tug he has. He'll most likely drop his and come play with the one you have. Don't worry, it won't send the wrong message to the dog. In fact, I should have also suggested this option in the video. It will also most likely increase your dog's confidence. Just don't say the drop it command, before you know you can get your dog to release the toy. It should go like this; you're playing with the dog, then you release the toy. After you release the toy, you bring out the new toy. When your puppy lets go of the old toy, mark with the terminal marker, and reward with the new toy. Once you know your puppy will drop the toy every time with this physical cue, then you can name it. It should go as follows; you're playing tug with the puppy, then you release the toy. Once you release the toy, then say your drop it command. After you say your drop it command, then bring out the new toy. You have to say your drop it command before you bring out the new toy and after you let go of the old toy. Continue this until he releases the old toy on the verbal command alone. I hope this helps and thanks for supporting the channel! :)
@@NateSchoemer Wow thank you! I didn't think you'd actually respond. The thing is if I let go of the toy, he'll just take it and play with it on his own. However, I tried your food method and it worked. I literally tried the same method a month ago and he didn't want to let to but I decided to try it again and now he is letting go. Not always but it's a start. Still the biting is a problem. I hope he stops that as soon as he's done teething. His teeth just started coming off. Or is that something I need to train him not to do? Again, thanks so much. I'm using your videos to try and get a more obedient puppy. It's hard to make him not do things. He likes doing things but not not not doing things.
I'm happy to help. Most dogs stop puppy bitting as they get older. However, if you want to stop it, there are three common techniques to accomplish this. One; when he goes to bite, say one no and then give him a correction using the leash and training collar. Two; redirect him to a different toy (that doesn't teach him to stop biting, it simply redirects the dog). Three; in this video I explain option three: facebook.com/1691543827794708/videos/2022324658049955/
If you don’t already have one can you please make a video on how to reinforce that out command my dog currently has a really strong out however under a little bit of pressure he tends to regrip or hold on instead of outing . I understand the concept of that out and maybe working him with a different pillow teaching him that once he outs the game continues but for some reason when it comes to bite work he tends to hold onto it a little bit more intensely is that possibly because the decoy is not completely still?
The more drive the dog has towards the reward, the more difficult it could be to build a reliable out. If I'm having issues with an out, I go back a few steps to make sure the command is very strong. If the dog still refuses to out, then you may need to use a correction. Remember, everything our dogs do is based on motivation. The motivation to access something pleasant, or the motivation to prevent something unpleasant. If your dog is practicing a behavior that is fun (self-reinforcing behavior), then you have two options to stop this. One; make sure to prevent the dog from being able to practice the undesired behavior. The second option is to use a correction to stop the behavior. A correction can be anything the dog doesn't like. So in the end, the motivation not to receive the correction must override the motivation to do the undesired behavior.
If you use a correction and the undesired behavior continues, then the correction is not high enough. Here's an analogy to help understand this concept. It's important to remember that every dog has their bank account (their correction level). Some dogs are very wealthy, and some are penniless, just like people. Let's say that you are speeding down the highway and a police officer pulls you over and writes you a 25 cent-speeding ticket. The second the officer leaves, you will start speeding again because the ticket wasn't high enough to get you to change your behavior. But let's say he pulls you over and writes you a ten-million-dollar speeding ticket, now it's so high that you will avoid driving altogether, and you will be very stressed out. On the other hand, let's say he pulls you over and writes you a $125 speeding ticket. That would be enough to get you to slow down, without causing you to avoid the behavior of driving altogether. This is what we must do with our dogs; we need to correct them at a level that is adequate to their bank account. If the dog doesn't stop the bad behavior, then you may have to increase the correction. Just be sure to correct the dog in the act.
I hope that helps and thank you for supporting my work, I really appreciate it.
So out is for them to drop and what does free do
I use "free" as a terminal marker, which means release and reward.
Thanks for the video firstly. My GSD puppy 5 month old when he takes treats while on the move like that always gets some teeth on my treating hand when he comes to get the treat. How do I teach him to get the treat without putting his teeth on my hand.
Put food in your hand and close your fist. Only start to open your hand, when your puppy is trying to take the food nicely. I hope that helps. :)
Dam, this is great. Really well articulated and broken down; thanks dude. Can you tell me what toy that is?
Thanks! Tug toy used in video: amzn.to/2RTkxIk
Great tutorials! What if the dog eats things off the ground? How do you get them to drop it?
Check out this video. I think it will give you the info you are looking for. :) ua-cam.com/video/n4DKorjXyaQ/v-deo.html
You need to use some force if you have a high drive working mal or sheperd. Especially if they are more toy motivated than food motivated.
Usually the value transfer with the toy will work. However, you're correct. Some dogs will need force to teach the out command.
what is a terminal marker?
Nice video once again.
We have a Welsh Corgi Pembroke witch is 15 months old. He loves to play with toys. The only problem is weather we play outside or inside the house, he loves to tease us by fetching the toy but backing up just out of reach when he should give the toy up. He finds thos most rewarding sort of play. Most times when we get the toy we throw it again to him and he rushes to fetch it. The toy is much more valuable than food, same goes for other toys, which ever he has at the time is the best. What should we do?
Thanks! I would use a long line and praise him all the way back to me. Once he get's to me, I would play tug and let him win. This will increase his confidence and he'll want to come back for more play. I would continue to do this until I no longer need the long line. You can see an example in this video: ua-cam.com/video/ipRm9ebHgjo/v-deo.html Cheers! :)
What do you recommend for a puppy that knows "drop it," but only drops it if she wants to? I taught my puppy "drop it" by playing with a tug toy and she always complies bc she knows she'll get it back by complying.
However, when it really matters (when she is trying to eat something that can hurt her such as rocks, bark, etc., which my backyard is full of) she doesn't comply. I have been having to pry things out of her mouth so that she doesn't get intestinal blockages, but now that she knows I will take it from her, she has taken to running around excitedly as if it's a game. I almost never can get to her before she swallows it. I can't afford to have my backyard landscaped to remove all the rocks (which are all throughout the soil.) So now when I say drop it, she runs unless we're playing a game & she knows she'll get the toy back. Our backyard is a pretty decent size, too, so she's often too far away from me when she gets something. I've tried to offer toys or food in exchange for the forbidden item, but she doesn't seem to like any of those things once she is determined to eat rocks or bark. She is a 4 month old doberman pinscher.
We have an 8 wk old shepherd lab mix. He gets way too excited about food to register anything... Is 10 to 12 weeks old a better time to start training? Obviously bite inhibition and leash and collar training will be happening...what do you recommend? Ideally I would love to train him to assist my husband who has ms type difficulies
Thanks for the question. I would start training the puppy right away. The sooner the better. Puppies imprinting stage is the first 16 weeks of the puppies life. What they learn and experience during that time can stick with them for life. So lots of confidence-building and try to be sure that the puppy doesn't have any bad experiences during that time. It's okay if he's getting really excited about food. Use this as an opportunity to get him to lure into all the different positions you want him to perform, like sit, down, stand, come, etc. He may not even realize what he's doing, but it'll help in the long run. My lab Charlie was the same when he was a puppy. Also, use the continuation marker more than the terminal marker for him. The terminal marker can increase a dogs food drive because it also incorporates prey and play drive. Hope this helps and thanks for supporting the channel! :)
@@NateSchoemer thanks! I actually got him to focus on my eyes now with my hands full of food in either hand. I was very impressed. Now he knows meal times are learning times! He's a very confident dog I think...processes everything. I had to give him a bath which was a bad experience for him (he got oil on him) but after, he marched back in and gave the tub a good long look all on his own. Should I praise him for that? I hope I didn't wreck him for life on water...We live where there are lots of lakes. Hoping I can survive the ankle shark stage...learning that it's like a baby crying, it almost always goes away if he gets what he needs. Thanks again, I'll keep watching!
How do you encourage her to play with you like Ari did?
Can you make a video on teaching "no" without negative reinforcement backing up the command?
Thanks for the question Nikki. A word only means to a dog what it predicts. For example; If you said no every-time before you gave your dog a treat, then no would become a conditioned reinforcer (marker) to your dog. You can make the word "no" mean whatever you like. Let me know what you want "no" to mean to your dogs and I'll explain how you can do that. :)
Nate Schoemer i want it to stop my puppy from what he’s doing, most importantly from biting too hard and chewing on things he shouldn’t. i’m not sure if that’s too general for one command or not though.
That's actually how I start teaching the "no" word to my dogs. I have it predict leash pressure to stop the dog from doing whatever they are currently doing. For example, if my dog jumped on someone, I would say one no and then I would use the leash pressure to pull the dog off of the person. Once all four paws are back on the ground, I would praise and reward them. For chewing on things, I would again say one no and use the leash pressure to cue the dog into a sit, which would cause them to stop chewing. Same with breaking a stay command. If you do this correctly, no will mean to stop what they are doing or to go back to the previous position, like a sit-stay. Check out these two videos, to see what I'm talking about. :) ua-cam.com/video/9L8tK7mSD10/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/s5iD8eN89bo/v-deo.html
Hey Nate what tug you do you use? My German is ripping them in just one training session
Question: I am training my dog to attack and for that reason I need it to stop biting on command
But does that still mean that I don’t take the toy from him every time I say out?
Correct. Often during protection training, I'll tell the dog to "out". The moment they release the bite, I will quickly move to trigger a re-bite. This is a great way to reward the dog for quickly releasing the bite on command. I hope that helps and thank you for supporting my work, I really appreciate it. If my training videos have been helpful in any way, consider becoming a patron to help support my channel. My goal is to improve the quality of life for all dogs by educating those who care for them. Your support helps me focus on that mission every day! www.patreon.com/NateSchoemer
hello! Thank you so much for this video
what sort of toy are you using
My pleasure and thanks for watching! Here is a link to the tug toy I'm using in the video: amzn.to/2RTkxIk
Should I choose only one of these 3 techniques? or can I alternate between them?
I have seen the leash pressure technique for walking on a loose leash. Is there a reward based technuique for the loose leash training?
Hey Barron, Thanks for the support and question. From my experience, using leash pressure to teach loose leash walking is the fastest way with very little stress if any for the dog. However, if you don't like to use leash pressure then your next best option is to have something of higher value than the environment. Remember, dogs will always choose whatever is most motivating. This means if your dog's favorite thing in the world is rabbits and your neighborhood is filled with rabbits, then good luck trying to get that dog not to pull using only reward-based training. This is why pure positive only dog trainers will use a super high value treat like cooked chicken or steak when teaching loose leash walking. They are hoping that the dog will be more interested in the cooked meat than the environment. If the dog still chooses the environment over the cooked meat, the trainer will skip the dog's meal and try again later. If the dog is still more interested in the environment, then they will skip another meal. They will continue to do this until the dog chooses the cooked meat over the environment. Once you get the dog to show more interest in the food, then you continue to reward the dog with small bites to keep the dog's attention on you and not everything else that's going on around him. You would continue to do this until the dog develops the habit to walk with a loose leash. This way takes way longer but can work if you're patient enough. I hope this helps and thanks again! :)
Thank you for promptly clearing that up for me.
@@barronsamson1435 My Pleasure! :)
@@NateSchoemer The downside of this method is that some dogs will starve themselves and always choose a certain distraction over food. That is why many positive only trainers give up on a dog when it consistently won't take the cooked steak or chicken bribery over the distraction and the positive only method doesn't work.
Hi Nate, I would really appreciate your help. My dog's "drop it" is reasonable when we are playing with his own toys. However, when we are out on walks he loves to steal other dog's balls! I can't get them off him no matter what, he is very aware that these are not 'his' and I think that is part of the fun for him. Do you have any tips on improving drop it for this issue? I have been working on his "leave it" too, again great at home and on walks when it is animal/human/cow poo related but when it's another dog's ball/stick he just can't resist.
You'll most likely have to correct the behavior to stop the dog from practicing it. Corrections in dog training is when we are using positive punishment to stop an undesired behavior. First, we must keep in mind that everything our dogs do is based on motivation. The motivation to access something pleasant, or the motivation to prevent something unpleasant. If your dog is practicing a behavior that is fun (self-reinforcing behavior), then you have two options to stop this. One; make sure to prevent the dog from being able to practice the undesired behavior. The second option is to use a correction to stop the behavior. A correction can be anything the dog doesn't like. So in the end, the motivation not to receive the correction must override the motivation to do the undesired behavior.
If you use a correction and the undesired behavior continues, then the correction is not high enough. Here's an analogy to help understand this concept. It's important to remember that every dog has their bank account (their correction level). Some dogs are very wealthy, and some are penniless, just like people. Let's say that you are speeding down the highway and a police officer pulls you over and writes you a 25 cent-speeding ticket. The second the officer leaves, you will start speeding again because the ticket wasn't high enough to get you to change your behavior. But let's say he pulls you over and writes you a ten-million-dollar speeding ticket, now it's so high that you will avoid driving altogether, and you will be very stressed out. On the other hand, let's say he pulls you over and writes you a $125 speeding ticket. That would be enough to get you to slow down, without causing you to avoid the behavior of driving altogether. This is what we must do with our dogs; we need to correct them at a level that is adequate to their bank account. If the dog doesn't stop the bad behavior, then you may have to increase the correction. Just be sure to correct the dog in the act.
In addition, proper corrections should not create a fearful dog. Usually fear when correcting a dog is due to the owner being angry, yelling at the dog, or correcting too hard. When we use a correction, it's simple cause and effect. A correction should never be personal and you should never yell at your dog. Once the correction is done, then we praise and reward our dog when they're doing what we like. If your dog knows why he/she is being corrected and knows how to prevent the correction from happening, then you shouldn't create any fear.
Leash pop: This is when you make a snapping motion with the dog’s leash to engage the training-collar to give the dog a correction (a positive-punishment). If you're using a flat collar and that's not working, then you may need to use a prong collar to stop the behavior.
I hope this helps!
@@NateSchoemer thank you for your detailed advice! Much appreciated.
Hi Nate, my dog sometimes takes something off the ground that she shouldn't have, and won't drop it, even on command. She runs around and thinks it's a game. What can I do?
Set her up to make the mistake and then correct her with a training collar if she chooses not to listen. Once she drops the item, praise and reward her. :)
@@NateSchoemer Okay thank you.
Hello! I’m trying to teach my GSD these techniques but what are the treats you use? Ut up hot dogs are too slippery when handling in 2 hands. The treats you use, is that just dog kibble?
Cut up hot dogs*
Hey! Thanks for the question! I usually will use one of three types of treats. Freeze-dried treats are my first pick, then sliced hot dogs, last is kibble such as Orijen. Hope this helps!
Such a fun video to watch! Are tug games & rough housing w your dog a good idea if he has aggressive tendencies?
I have a new 2 y.o. rescue (pit/lab mix) & he’s aggressive w people :/ I can’t get near ANYBODY. He is quick to attack. I believe it’s fear based. I would love your HELP or LA based references if you have any : )
I'm based in LA. Feel free to send me an email with your number and I'll reach out. Cheers! NateSchoemer@gmail.com
Does this work for non toy items that they shouldn't have? Say they snag something you don't see while walking and they won't give it up for food?
Yes, this works on any item that the dog may pick up.
@@NateSchoemer Thank you
I’m trying to follow your videos with my 8 week old GSD puppy. I can’t get him to leave ANYTHING alone. My shoes, the door stop, my clothes I’m wearing, everything. He also keeps biting my ankles, feet and hands. I tried to transfer his attention to a toy but it didn’t work. Should I say “off” or ignore? I mean...this was day one. Any suggestions?
Check out this video on "How to introduce a new puppy into your home" ua-cam.com/video/n4DKorjXyaQ/v-deo.html and here's a video on how to stop a puppy from biting: facebook.com/NateSchoemer/videos/924429067997276/ I hope this helps and thanks for supporting the channel! :)
been watching all your videos and found it very helpful... i want to ask if i can reset all my commands using your techniques.. my mallinois is 9month old. thank you!
Thanks Amada, I appreciate that! Yes, absolutely, you can start using these techniques and get results. :)
Nate, I love your videos and they have helped tons already. 3 questions...
1) can I play too rough with my dog? I have a 5 month old german shepherd / pit mix and she loves to play rough and is very vocal. I don't want to create a habit I have to break later but she is most engaged when I'm wrestling with her.
2) how do you get Charlie and Ari so engaged? They look anxious for you to give them a command and truly look like they love training. (my dog is very food motivated but, at best, tolerates the down command, for example) How long did it take to get to that level of engagement or is it just their personality?
3) my dog leads with her paws and has unintentionally scratched faces just because she is exited. Any suggestions there? Nothing like dog nails to the face when waking up...
Thanks and keep up the great work!
Hey Douglasazo! Thanks for the kind words and great questions! When it comes to playing rough with your dog, you decide what's okay and what's not. I tell people that it's not a problem unless it's a problem. For example; I let my dogs sleep on my bed and I've never had an issue, but if my dogs started to resource guard my bed from me, then it's an issue and would need to be corrected. I also play rough with my dogs and they love it! I'm just always careful not to be too rough so I don't accidentally hurt my dog. A big part of Charlie's and Arih's engagement with me is genetics, but a lot is also from training. I always make training as fun as possible and I never allow myself to get frustrated during training. If I do start to get frustrated because my dog isn't learning or performing as well as I would like, I simply stop training. You always want to train when you're in a good mood and never in a bad mood. I also do a few minutes of engagement training before every training session. This builds the habit of staying engaged. Now for the last question. It sounds like she is hitting you with her paws in the morning and she sleeps in bed with you. If that's the case, just restrict the top portion of the bed from her. Only allow her to sleep on the bottom half of the bed. If she tries to come to the top of the bed, just treat the bottom half of the bed as a stay. Meaning, if she starts to come to the top half of the bed, say one no and then calming put her back at the bottom half of the bed. Check out my stay video to learn how to do this. I hope this helps and thanks again! ua-cam.com/video/s5iD8eN89bo/v-deo.html
@@NateSchoemer thank you and thanks for responding. Bella sleeps right beside my bed and jumps up, leading with front paws, when she's excited or is trying to wake me up to go outside. She's not big enough or strong enough yet to make it up on the bed (but I have as feeling that's coming) My question is more how do I correct something that happens when I'm asleep or just waking up. She still does jump up on us and new people when meeting them...maybe I should start there. Thoughts?
You can try setting her up to fail, so you can correct her when she makes the mistake. For example; act like you are sleeping and when she acts out the behavior, you'll be ready to reinforce what you want. Also, stopping her from jumping on people can help with the issue. It's very easy to teach as well. Tell people that are meeting her, that they can pet her as long as all four paws are on the ground. The moment she jumps up, they have to stop petting. When she jumps up, you will say one no and then use leash pressure to pull her off of whoever she jumped on. Once all four paws are back on the ground, they can go back to petting her. I hope that helps. :)
I also wanted to ask on your potty training video what if after saying “no” after setting them up to fail they continue to urinate/defecate etc? Should you place them outside? Repeat no? Put them in their crate if they do not potty after taking them outside?
Great question! Send me an email with your number and I'll give you a call to explain the best way to deal with this situation. Thanks! NateSchoemer@gmail.com
Hey Nate, I noticed you clapping in this video during play is there any reason for this? is it a jump on que thing?
Hi Breelin! Great observation! I do that instinctively. You can do it if you like with your training, but it's not required. :)
Hi there, I'm new to your channel. Do you think I can handle a Belgian mal? I have a few dogs before. How much exercise do they need?
Hey! Thanks for visiting and supporting my channel. I'm not sure if you would be able to handle a Malinois or not, but I only recommend Malinois to people that have a plan for the dog. Meaning, they are training the dog for a sport such as french ring or IPO, they plan on using the dog for search and rescue training, or scent detection. The main point is that the Malinois is not a "pet" type of dog. They are working dogs and need to be treated as such. If that's your plan, then a Malinois may work for you. If you want a working dog like the Malinois, but easier to handle, then I would suggest a GSD. Just make sure you have a local professional trainer to help you along the way. I know good trainers throughout the US, so let me know if you need a recommendation. Cheers! :)
@@NateSchoemer wow thank you very much it's really helpful. I'm so glad I found your channel looking forward for more videos thanks.
What breed is Charlie?
He's a Fox Red British Lab. :)
Great video :-) How hard and confusing is it for dogs if I change commands? I’ve been teaching my dog(just turned 1) “out”, but I might want to change to “drop” because I want to use “out” command for something else. Is it a very bad thing to do for a dog? Thank you so much Nate!
Thanks! You, can teach your dog multiple commands for one behavior. In fact, a lot of trainers will do this if they are trying to fix something like a lazy down. Instead of trying to fix the down command, they just reteach the behavior with a new command. It's usually a much easier process that way. :)
@@NateSchoemer thank you for your reply! That’s great to know. Thank you again!!
1. Can you kink this toy?
2. My dog doesn't quite down hard enough
3. My dog often will take the toy and go sit alone during tug
She is a 9mo old German Shepherd / Husky mix
How can I increase this drive and wanting to engage with me?
I'll answer this during the live Q&A today. :)
What kind of dog is that?
I thought free was like done ?? what is it meaning to you ?
Co incident my Daugther bussiness name is NS which Nicole Shannon 😊
Awesome!
Sound of your video is quite low ,
Yes. In my older videos I didn’t have the best audio equipment, but if you watch all my newer videos, the audio is significantly better. 😁
I made the mistake of attempting guard dog training without my dog being even 50% obedient. I use a three foot 4 inch rope, but she will let go as soon as I calmly say "okay, leave it". She knows she'll get it back. This is my first dog, and I wanted to teach her protection due to us living in a shady neighborhood. I know now that teaching her attack whilst being 50% or less obedient is a very bad thing.. it could be a liability. But I was trying to be smart about it. I didn't just pick up a toy and teach her to be aggressive (she isn't aggressive whatsoever) . I did however teach her that if a fist is made and pulled back towards my gf she will jump 4-5 feet to attack a bare arm (can't afford a sleev) so now if I'm being calm hugging my gf shaking her hand being nice.. somebody can walk away and if they turn back to go towards her my dog will not let go of a wrist or arm without her or my say so..
I only wish I knew as much as I did now before I got her and was given barbaric advice on how to quote dicaplen and correct behavior. Sadly that's all I knew within her primal moments of life, smacking her butt, holding down and biting ear.. I regret it so much. As a result she'll randomly get timid when I pet her as if I'm going to hurt her. But that was the only information I had so that's what if did.
It wasnt until I did research that I broke down crying because I knew how wrong I was treating this incredible animal. She does show that she loves me. She just clearly doesn't trust me as well as my gf. Our dog wants her to teach her, so my 1000+ hours of research is only handy when she feels like letting me teach her how to train. I do most of the training. But our dog has two owners and prefers her.
Thanks for your comment and sharing. When learning how to be a dog trainer, everyone makes mistakes. All we can do is continue to learn and improve, so we can do better by our dogs. :)
Hmmm... How do I teach my dog to tug? She just puts it down lol
I know this is an absurd request but I’d love if you could make a video on teaching your dog to retrieve things from the fridge. I understand breaking down the basics but how would I name a command for a series of behaviors? Such as grab a soda from the fridge.
That's an excellent suggestion and I'm going to add it to my list of future videos. Thanks!
I don’t understand this at all in a lot of these videos. All the training is done with food so in order for the dog to do a command, you give him a treat once the dog learns command or you still giving him treats. How do you train a dog without treats and why do you use treats to train a dog?
ua-cam.com/video/3LYCO9ITmqk/v-deo.htmlsi=zx0ULrd2o_5V_LNr
I'm still unclear when you take the toy away when play time is over.
After the session. Cheers!
All I hear is steve-o from jackass. Lol
work on your audio. good video
seems your teaching him to jump and lunge at you.
I like my dogs to jump towards me to get the reward. If you don't want that from your dogs, simply offer the reward at a lower position. :)
Why am i even watching this, i dont have a dog
Lol! Sounds like you went down the UA-cam rabbit hole. Been there before!
Tell the truth. Did you soak those toys in beef broth ? Lol. Mine won't tug.
I wish these videos would be made with a dog who isn't obviously already trained for the behavior. Sure, it makes the trainer look great, but it's not very helpful when trying to learn to teach this to a dog who's never done it. Show us with a dog who's having trouble understanding the concept, not one who is already perfect at it.
Go through my channel more. I have dozens of videos that I demonstrate with untrained dog. 😁🐶
Nate shares his expertise and experience for free - if we had to pay a trainer for one on one it would be thousands of dollars.
Find this confusing.
My dog drops everything easily until she has a snotty filled tissue from the bathroom garbage in her mouth. Total sicko
Lol!
This is not very helpful because the dog is already trained. A video of a dog who is learning out for first time is what most of us need to see.