See it in action here! Ita awesome!... but this is not the top speed! It gets better. Subscribe CLICK HERE FOR LINKS!! ua-cam.com/video/eHjF5_E6p-M/v-deo.html
When soldering the copper rods, it is a good idea to cut them to length first. First reason is to reduce heating required as extra copper acts like heat sink, but main reason is that when you cut after soldering, you create micro-fractures in the solder joint which reduces mechanical strength and most of all reduces it current carrying capability .. :) Good job through, love your approach :)
Yeah this is the first video I watched of his and it doesn't seem like he's very bright. The solder looks like a 7-year-old did it, and when he made the bracket for the electric motor he acted like he had just did the most complicated tool cut, but it was just a simple bracket
When soldering the XT60s, keep the other end plugged in while you do it. Otherwise the brass contacts could melt through the housing, or the housing could (and will!) deform due to the heat. Keeping the other end plugged in and letting it cool off after soldering will take care of these issues.
This takes me back to when I built a RC jetboat testing tank with diverters to encourage recirculation path. I ran glowplug motors, weed eater motors and a pocket boke motor, all on home build jet units. Happy days.
Dude, I've been watch youtube for years. This is the first time I have "liked , subscribed, or rang the bell. And I' only saw maybe a minute of your video. I'm inspired.
12:44 Hey! I'm concerned about HEAT BUILDUP. You've got no vents on that, AND that foam is like an extremely good thermal insulator unless of course, you expect to run cool water through the foam, and all around the batteries. A lot of excitement building up there. Can't wait !!!
Awesome! Technically, that was "aeration" rather than cavitation. Aeration (of a prop) is when you suck air into the flow and the prop loses "traction" in the water ands spins without producing much thrust. On a boat, it can happen in hard turns or when starting up a heavy boat with a long-pitch prop. Cavitation is when the water flow around the prop causes tiny pockets of vacuum at the low pressure points in the water flow. When these vacuum pockets move into an area with less low pressure and collapse, the "slam" as they close up is very destructive and can etch away the metal of the prop. With a system like this you may actually turn out to get real cavitation when you have it mounted on the kayak. It can happen when a prop is spinning faster than it is designed to spin. Look for a band of etched metal just behind the leading edge of the blades on the low pressure face of the blades (the face towards the bow).
The Body diodes in the Mosfets are what keeps the motor from free wheeling when its connected Most H-Bridge controllers are made that way . Build is looking good
@@TheGoodoftheLand it has never drained a battery on any of mine. Those diodes only act as brakes they don't actually draw current from the battery they just resist the back EMF from the motor windings
+apollo robb Sweet! Thank you. That solves a big problem. I can now just power down the speed control with the boat safety switch. That just saved me a ton of time.
THIS....... was the most fun I've had watching a video in a long, long time! Very interesting and brilliant (and really funny at times too)... my wife even came in to see why I was laughing so loudly! Excited to see where this baby's gonna go! A++++
This is awesome, I got excited and thrilled just watching. I can only imagine how you felt holding on to it. Im a old Vietnam era army vet. I love to fish . All I've ever wanted was a 12-14' flat bottom boat . And with life we don't always get what we want. But I can just imagine how amazing it would be to have one and have one or two of these as the main motor. Talk about getting back up in the shallow channels to catch some fish. I would be in sportsman heaven. Well a old man can dream . Love watching and if the good lord is willing. I'd really enjoy meeting you and your family. And spending some time with you watching you do some of the cool things you do. God bless and thanks for the videos.
You have obviously never been stuck living in a concrete jungle...a slave to the rat race...it's me, I'm the one who would sit in a kayak for 40- something hours. Thanks for the great vid. This is exactly what I need to sit in my kayak for 40+ hours!
When soldering the battery connecting block, You shuld use a LARGER soldering iron. To minimize problems with the small iron cut the copper to short length to reduce the mass neede to be heated. The non used part of the copper wire function as a heatsink and drastically affect the result. The video shows a fun project!
LOL! talk bout xcitment!!!!!!! im just imagining how it would be on the hobie!!!!! i wouldn't have to waste time paddling to the spot 3 miles down. exciting to see the power behind it! Great Job!!!
Hi! Great project🙌👍 Not sure if it was mentioned, but at least for calculating maximum loads when running parallel cables for instance, it is normal to take into consideration the heat which is being generated by the amps running through the connections. Yes, the 3x4 XT60 connectors leave a small footprint, but it could get quite hot since they are all butted against each other, without any separation between them😊 But liked the content, keep up the good work!👍
Cost of build I've been looking at this project for a few years now and it seems like it would never get started. I was going to use an old jet ski drive system. But this is more quiet. Well done!
Awesome build man, I built almost an identical system but using 4x 60v 9ah dewalt batteries, now I've seen your xt60 block I'll be redesigning lol aswell as probably getting that motor. I made everything else same components for a versatile electric power system I can put on my longboard, mountainbike, and now kayak haha
@@TheGoodoftheLand I'd love too, but there is no message feature on my Instagram(web). I can only comment. Don't need another app i'll never use on my phone.
I used to repair allot of old radios, still will on occasion but when soldering my ebike xt60 connectors, I used a smidge of flux, solder was flux cored but flowed where I wanted and more quickly. just some 2 cents there:)
instead of using all those complex XT60 connectors, to get 22 volts, you could just buy and use only one 6Cell battery 22.2v and save yourself space and so much trouble with all those connectors. :) SSS motors are good powerful motors. there are some cheaper alternatives to SSS motors and produce up to 27kg of thrust on 48volts.
@@johndoe1778 there are many options out there. I am using one motor that can use 12v to 24v and can be mounted under kayaks easily. I even have a 3D printed mounts for it.
@@johndoe1778 I am getting some 3D printed parts ready for my Surfboard build and will test that motor on my diy surfboard. motor is rated for 27kg of thrust underwater. no idea if my little surfboard can take it or not lol. but my diy boat should be able to.
Awesome to watch!!! Glad you did not electrocute yourself. Would love to buy a system kit for my kayak but would need it to be a bit more „industrialized“.
Hey dude, I'm a junior maintenance tech at my job and I also enjoy kayaking. I like your video here, that sucker has torque! I don't think you AND a buddy could hold that thing at full bore. Excellent video and I also like how you showed us how to solder. Thanks bud
Did anyone else have issues with the links for the motor and the batteries. I kept getting 404 errors? That motor is no joke, and i believe you said its totally sealed!!! That over comes issues I was concerned with on the first build. Keep it up...im ready to see it on the kayak
It appears as if all BangGood links are broken. Here is a link to the motor.... www.banggood.com/SSS-56114360KV-Brushless-Motor-6-Poles-For-RC-Marine-Boats-Electric-Surfboard-p-1267201.html?
This is a super cool build and tons of power! I personally use Anderson powerpole connectors. Versatile for customized bat/power supplies. I like that I can use larger gauge wire for increased protection from overheating. Question. Your amperage tests on being done with no load on the motor. That is going to increase significantly once the prop/motor is in the water pushing a couple hundred pounds of weight.
Watching you fabricate that bracket was neat and enough to convince me to subscribe. However, your previous excellent work had already convinced me and I found that I was already subscribed. Good work convincing someone you'd already convinced!
I too am a mechanical contractor. A.S.degree . Electro mechanical journeyman as well. Some of this is overkill for sure. Then again at 52 you start to weed out the things that take too long lol. But yeah props on most of this. I think I'll spend less money on a prop mechanical gas motor. At my bodyweight I can definitely get up to 11 miles an hour on water with a two-stroke Prop on my kayak.
I put little chunks of solder in the connector first so I get a better solder flow into the connector and avoid getting trapped bubbles or fartiing noises from that. 7:27 that looks pretty nooby soldering technique there. But anyway very good job your set up is insane love it 😎👍
Congratulations!!! I don't know what your idea of application is, but I imagined some very interesting ones. diving suit, motorboat, and others ... Good job !!!
Wow I just came across your video. Awesome stuff. The question I have is could that motor be paired with another to be used as a kicker for John boats.
In the picture, before you soldered the 8-ga. wires to those XT-60 "banks", you had 3 in Series and one in Parallel...! (I'm sure others spotted that, too!). Haha! I buy batteries, and then take them apart to meet my needs (i.e. a 4-S pack gets broken down into TWO 2-S packs, or visa-versa). Cheaper that way, when batteries are on sale (with the same "C-Rating"). You could've gone with XT-90 connectors, too!
Yes, others have also stated the obvious Oddly leaving out that the idea itself a completely new and awesome way to make both series and parallel connections. It seems like they see something that was right in front of them for years and it was so simple but they never figured it out. Perhaps this frustrates them, I'm not sure. So they attack the obvious. I'm not saying your comment is intended to be rude. Im not trying to be a jerk, it just makes me sad. Like crabs in a bucket. (Look it up) Thanks to this hack you never have to tear down and rebuild packs again. I didn't use XT90 connections because on the highest power pull the entire system only sees 150 amps spread over 12 connections. Easy work for an XT60. I have xt90's the will likely be used on the big battery build. 120 8ah Lipo cells. Once again, not directing this comment to you. You don't seem to be using this to elevate yourself. Check out the next two videos. Its awesome! Thanks for watching!
@@TheGoodoftheLand Working with Li-Po's (R/C Airplanes and boats) all the time, I was just concerned that other's didn't see it... That's all. (The Good Lord KNOWS I've made my share of mistakes!). Haha! I watched the other videos, and you're doing everything I would have done - myself. (Only thing I might've done differently is, using Transfer Screws for the Motor Screw Holes - or just "dial the numbers in" with a DRO and Rotary Table on a mill - but that takes too much time!). Haha! Simpler is Better, I always say! Good luck with your project, and I subscribed to see your progress.
Thanks for trying that controller and letting us know how it is. Will NOT be using that one lol. Hope your mounting method is STRONG. I do not imagine that most fiberglass kayaks or canoes is going to sustain that kind of force with longevity.
First time commenter love you channel. I have looked for content like this for a kayak before and didn’t have the best of luck can’t wait to see more. The more detail about the performance like amp draw and speed the better for me but will thumbs up regardless. Your content is very interesting thank you for all you do.
+Pj caylor So I just finished most of the fabrication on the motor mount. Im so excited! It turned out awesome! Che it out on Instagram @goodoftheland. The next video should be out on Saturday. Hopefully it will be a speed test and a range test. That is if I don't kill myself on this beast!. Thanks for watching!
O seem you connect the battery in serial. But where are the battery controller to balance the battery voltage. During the charge and discharge process, the battery voltage will change and affect the overall performance.
I would like a stern thruster for my boat. Do you have a recommendation? This set up would be amazing, but it could even be smaller. I don't need that much thrust!
How fast will this make a 14 foot aluminum jon boat go, and how much will it cost me to to do this??? Btw... Can you PLEASE send a link for EVERY product you have on this video??? Thank you...
I know this is old video, but I'm very interested in the motor, and the prop. The links are dead, any idea where I can find similar motor and prop? Or....what are the motor's specs?
At 14:30 in, the "something happening here" is called counter EMF. The windings of the motor are effectively shorted by the MOSFETs in the controller. That effect can be controlled. For remote control cars it's used as an adjustable brake and you can set a default amount of braking with the remote control. If more braking is desired, the dead stick point can be adjusted accordingly (hope I explained that correctly). Anyway, I'd look for a speed control that had a "trimmer" adjustment rather than what you were thinking at this point.
I am attempting a build using the same SSS motor you have. My motor will be in a dry compartment. I do not know much about the needed electrical components. Would the 300 amp esc used in this video work for the SSS motor and do you have a link for that ESC?
Did you make the propeller and the casing for the propeller to the motor? I would like to buy the motor with the propeller and propeller casing to the motor.
+Argisht Beigjany this prop is 110 mm. It's would probably operate more efficiently with a smaller prop. Its drawing to many amps. Gear restoration would help but I'm trying to keep as few parts as possible. More parts means more failure points. A simple trident and true gear reduction setup is on the way.
See it in action here! Ita awesome!... but this is not the top speed! It gets better. Subscribe CLICK HERE FOR LINKS!!
ua-cam.com/video/eHjF5_E6p-M/v-deo.html
I need one of these for my kayak!!!
Next time get two electric motors and make electric boat propelled speed boots
@@212acres3 vv'g+
The Good of the Land dude... that measurement is bs without load.
@@fliegenmann2562 correct
Dudes lucky he still has his fingers
ahhh yup YOU GOT THAT RIGHT!
From the motor or the bandsaw?
Exactly my first thought
Aren't we all. Count your blessings. Literally
thats why 1/10 of the viewers down vote this video, for the stupidity of this guy. i suppose a cargo strap and a 2x4 is out of the question.
When soldering the copper rods, it is a good idea to cut them to length first. First reason is to reduce heating required as extra copper acts like heat sink, but main reason is that when you cut after soldering, you create micro-fractures in the solder joint which reduces mechanical strength and most of all reduces it current carrying capability .. :) Good job through, love your approach :)
i just solder cut and resolder again.
Yeah this is the first video I watched of his and it doesn't seem like he's very bright. The solder looks like a 7-year-old did it, and when he made the bracket for the electric motor he acted like he had just did the most complicated tool cut, but it was just a simple bracket
Your exactly right, that solder needs to stay smooth and clean.👍
@@billsauer3164 It may be true what you say, but it's fair to say that 70% of the world's population wouldn't have gotten it as good as he did
I once installed a 3.5hp outboard motor on my fishing kayak. It was AWESOME! I get the feeling this electric motor will be even better😁
I cringed so bad watching the test, he had 80% chance of losing his fingers
He beat the odds by 100%. lol
When soldering the XT60s, keep the other end plugged in while you do it.
Otherwise the brass contacts could melt through the housing, or the housing could (and will!) deform due to the heat.
Keeping the other end plugged in and letting it cool off after soldering will take care of these issues.
Also probably would have gone with XT90's for this project.
@@RocketBurn11 agree
Was going to comment this. I’ve found they often deform if you don’t connect the other end of the xt60.
@@leighharvey9150 I've destroyed many connectors this way lol. I was really grateful when I read that tip somewhere.
This takes me back to when I built a RC jetboat testing tank with diverters to encourage recirculation path. I ran glowplug motors, weed eater motors and a pocket boke motor, all on home build jet units. Happy days.
Holding motor in water with your hands, what could possibly go wrong 😛
Three sharp metal blades...spinning at 5000RPM's...fish are gonna eat good :O
That was the most extremely dangerous thing I've seen in week of youtube. They almost called him nubbie.
I dare you to do it again
Man you shouldn’t do that. One slip and munch munch goes the digits.
i am afraid that he accidentally shove his fingers on those blades
Dude, I've been watch youtube for years. This is the first time I have "liked , subscribed, or rang the bell. And I' only saw maybe a minute of your video. I'm inspired.
12:44 Hey! I'm concerned about HEAT BUILDUP. You've got no vents on that, AND that foam is like an extremely good thermal insulator unless of course, you expect to run cool water through the foam, and all around the batteries. A lot of excitement building up there. Can't wait !!!
yeah, going to cook those packs. But it likely only runs for 10 minutes before running out of juice.
I've fitted 2 x 24v , 100lbs thrust , 1.25kw bison motors propulsing my 55ft 10 tonne narrowboat ! Works beautifully....
This video is sponsored by SawStop,
makers of the new PropStop.
Never lose fingers
to an experiment again!
Awesome!
Technically, that was "aeration" rather than cavitation. Aeration (of a prop) is when you suck air into the flow and the prop loses "traction" in the water ands spins without producing much thrust. On a boat, it can happen in hard turns or when starting up a heavy boat with a long-pitch prop.
Cavitation is when the water flow around the prop causes tiny pockets of vacuum at the low pressure points in the water flow. When these vacuum pockets move into an area with less low pressure and collapse, the "slam" as they close up is very destructive and can etch away the metal of the prop.
With a system like this you may actually turn out to get real cavitation when you have it mounted on the kayak. It can happen when a prop is spinning faster than it is designed to spin. Look for a band of etched metal just behind the leading edge of the blades on the low pressure face of the blades (the face towards the bow).
Yes! Thank you.
The Body diodes in the Mosfets are what keeps the motor from free wheeling when its connected Most H-Bridge controllers are made that way . Build is looking good
So is that potentially going to drain the battery? Do you think it will be fine to leave the motor connected all day?
@@TheGoodoftheLand it has never drained a battery on any of mine. Those diodes only act as brakes they don't actually draw current from the battery they just resist the back EMF from the motor windings
+apollo robb Sweet! Thank you. That solves a big problem. I can now just power down the speed control with the boat safety switch. That just saved me a ton of time.
I can't wait to see this on boat!
THIS....... was the most fun I've had watching a video in a long, long time! Very interesting and brilliant (and really funny at times too)... my wife even came in to see why I was laughing so loudly! Excited to see where this baby's gonna go! A++++
Thank you Dr. LEE. I'm finishing up the project today and testing in the water tomorrow. Vid will drop Sunday. Hope it works!
Same here for the same reason.
I was looking into buying a trolling motor for my canoe... Yeah, l think l’m gonna get this 🔥🔥🔥🔥instead
Same...but it was NOT to this video
This is awesome, I got excited and thrilled just watching. I can only imagine how you felt holding on to it. Im a old Vietnam era army vet. I love to fish . All I've ever wanted was a 12-14' flat bottom boat . And with life we don't always get what we want. But I can just imagine how amazing it would be to have one and have one or two of these as the main motor. Talk about getting back up in the shallow channels to catch some fish. I would be in sportsman heaven. Well a old man can dream . Love watching and if the good lord is willing. I'd really enjoy meeting you and your family. And spending some time with you watching you do some of the cool things you do. God bless and thanks for the videos.
+Bear Nice to meet you Bear! Wish you were around here we could go fishing. Check my channel. The new video of the water test is out!
Did you ever get your boat?
Bear..... did you ever get your boat?
@@TheGoodoftheLand Do you know if Bear ever got his boat?
If you reprogram the esc you can turn off the motor brake feature and have it freewheel at zero throttle
The first 10 seconds 😁👌🏼 best of the year so far. Great intro
The motor cogging when connected doesn't necessarily mean power is being supplied, it just means the windings are connected to a resistive load.
It's probably a brake setting in the controller. You can turn that of if you wanted to.
You have obviously never been stuck living in a concrete jungle...a slave to the rat race...it's me, I'm the one who would sit in a kayak for 40- something hours. Thanks for the great vid. This is exactly what I need to sit in my kayak for 40+ hours!
Any chance there’s updated links for the parts? Everything seems to go to a 404 page.
That new motor with the right batteries is going to be a giggle a minute! Super cool!
14:40 Some esc's have a brake feature, might be why you cant turn it easily when its plug in. Need to disable it so it freewheels
When soldering the battery connecting block, You shuld use a LARGER soldering iron. To minimize problems with the small iron cut the copper to short length to reduce the mass neede to be heated. The non used part of the copper wire function as a heatsink and drastically affect the result.
The video shows a fun project!
Your amp draw is completely wrong it’s dependent on load (prop/boat size In the water)
LOL! talk bout xcitment!!!!!!! im just imagining how it would be on the hobie!!!!! i wouldn't have to waste time paddling to the spot 3 miles down. exciting to see the power behind it! Great Job!!!
links to motor, prop and charger do not work.
This is way cool, I want to try something like this for my small fishing kayak. Thanks for sharing.
I keep trying your parts links but they go to a dead page.
Yeah I had that same issue
+Calvin Burton check the pinned comment. Links to the latest video links work
Please tell me were you got your parts great unit.
Please tell me were you got your parts great unit.
Thanks man people gonna hate cuz they want it but thanks for showing us this
Hi! Great project🙌👍 Not sure if it was mentioned, but at least for calculating maximum loads when running parallel cables for instance, it is normal to take into consideration the heat which is being generated by the amps running through the connections. Yes, the 3x4 XT60 connectors leave a small footprint, but it could get quite hot since they are all butted against each other, without any separation between them😊 But liked the content, keep up the good work!👍
Great video!
But the opener was priceless! 🤣🤣🤣👍
Cost of build I've been looking at this project for a few years now and it seems like it would never get started. I was going to use an old jet ski drive system. But this is more quiet. Well done!
Awesome build man, I built almost an identical system but using 4x 60v 9ah dewalt batteries, now I've seen your xt60 block I'll be redesigning lol aswell as probably getting that motor. I made everything else same components for a versatile electric power system I can put on my longboard, mountainbike, and now kayak haha
How hot do your batteries get all wrapped in the foam like that? I would be concerned. Excellent build !!
That's what I was gonna say, gonna be a hot running battery pack
Dude.. you're a maniac! 🤣🤣. I wish you were my neighbor. We would have some fun!
sure wish i could figure out link to win mr cool. would be a great addition to my small shop. great videos Dave
goodof the land on Instagram. Shoot me a message. Sorry I will fix the link.
@@TheGoodoftheLand I'd love too, but there is no message feature on my Instagram(web). I can only comment. Don't need another app i'll never use on my phone.
I used to repair allot of old radios, still will on occasion but when soldering my ebike xt60 connectors, I used a smidge of flux, solder was flux cored but flowed where I wanted and more quickly. just some 2 cents there:)
Hi! Can you please write the Models of motor, controller etc..?
The links dont work :(
I need to see this on a kayak! I might want one of those!
instead of using all those complex XT60 connectors, to get 22 volts, you could just buy and use only one 6Cell battery 22.2v and save yourself space and so much trouble with all those connectors. :) SSS motors are good powerful motors. there are some cheaper alternatives to SSS motors and produce up to 27kg of thrust on 48volts.
Hey bro any idea about a 12v motor that would be ideal for a kayak? I have 9kwh of lipo4 to use
@@johndoe1778 there are many options out there. I am using one motor that can use 12v to 24v and can be mounted under kayaks easily. I even have a 3D printed mounts for it.
@@alishanmao I’ll take a look thanks bro! 🤙
@@alishanmao which video specifically? I seen the 48v one only
@@johndoe1778 I am getting some 3D printed parts ready for my Surfboard build and will test that motor on my diy surfboard. motor is rated for 27kg of thrust underwater. no idea if my little surfboard can take it or not lol. but my diy boat should be able to.
The power from that motor is powerful. I think that would be great for a scuba jet project.
All links dead..
Awesome to watch!!! Glad you did not electrocute yourself. Would love to buy a system kit for my kayak but would need it to be a bit more „industrialized“.
Would be great if you could fix the links to this project. All are broken.
You really had an amazing experience!
Take it to Canada and race the guys from The Hacksmith.
+Rex McStiller I saw that video! It was awesome and insightful.
Hey dude, I'm a junior maintenance tech at my job and I also enjoy kayaking. I like your video here, that sucker has torque! I don't think you AND a buddy could hold that thing at full bore. Excellent video and I also like how you showed us how to solder. Thanks bud
22:06 I AM GOING TO SEE IF I CAN CUT OFF THE FINGERS OF BOTH HANDS INSTEAD OF USING A THRUST MEASURING DEVICE SECURED SAFELY.
Did anyone else have issues with the links for the motor and the batteries. I kept getting 404 errors?
That motor is no joke, and i believe you said its totally sealed!!! That over comes issues I was concerned with on the first build. Keep it up...im ready to see it on the kayak
Yep. Me too. Broken links.
Yep, was about to buy one too.
Im hoping he will update the link or at least give us the info we need ...
It appears as if all BangGood links are broken. Here is a link to the motor.... www.banggood.com/SSS-56114360KV-Brushless-Motor-6-Poles-For-RC-Marine-Boats-Electric-Surfboard-p-1267201.html?
It's pretty High dollar for a 360 KV. Maybe a bit overkill
20:12 I DON'T MIND CHOPPING OFF MY FINGERS RUNNING THE BLENDER UNDERWATER
This is a super cool build and tons of power! I personally use Anderson powerpole connectors. Versatile for customized bat/power supplies. I like that I can use larger gauge wire for increased protection from overheating.
Question. Your amperage tests on being done with no load on the motor. That is going to increase significantly once the prop/motor is in the water pushing a couple hundred pounds of weight.
How about selling that when you're done.. I want one
That is a really compact motor. Will be easy for floating or lakes. Nice Job . hope you sell a lot of them. Good luck.
I was very nervous for your fingers getting in the prop,please don’t do that again,all though it was awesome 😎
Same thoughts here
Watching you fabricate that bracket was neat and enough to convince me to subscribe.
However, your previous excellent work had already convinced me and I found that I was already subscribed.
Good work convincing someone you'd already convinced!
+Felix Cat Ha! Awesome Brother! Thank you
this should been 15 seconds then build hate artificial drama OMG I really hate let me give 30 or 50 examples
Starter motor grinder...BRILLIANT!
I too am a mechanical contractor. A.S.degree . Electro mechanical journeyman as well. Some of this is overkill for sure. Then again at 52 you start to weed out the things that take too long lol. But yeah props on most of this. I think I'll spend less money on a prop mechanical gas motor. At my bodyweight I can definitely get up to 11 miles an hour on water with a two-stroke Prop on my kayak.
Dude, this is awesome! I'm building a small boat, and this is what I have been looking for! Subscribed!
7677
I put little chunks of solder in the connector first so I get a better solder flow into the connector and avoid getting trapped bubbles or fartiing noises from that. 7:27 that looks pretty nooby soldering technique there. But anyway very good job your set up is insane love it 😎👍
- It wasn't all the way up?
- No. Never.
That's a pearl you have here. She saved your fingers.
Congratulations!!! I don't know what your idea of application is, but I imagined some very interesting ones. diving suit, motorboat, and others ... Good job !!!
What is that tool you used to cut the metal peice
Wow I just came across your video. Awesome stuff. The question I have is could that motor be paired with another to be used as a kicker for John boats.
In the picture, before you soldered the 8-ga. wires to those XT-60 "banks", you had 3 in Series and one in Parallel...! (I'm sure others spotted that, too!). Haha!
I buy batteries, and then take them apart to meet my needs (i.e. a 4-S pack gets broken down into TWO 2-S packs, or visa-versa). Cheaper that way, when batteries are on sale (with the same "C-Rating").
You could've gone with XT-90 connectors, too!
Yes, others have also stated the obvious Oddly leaving out that the idea itself a completely new and awesome way to make both series and parallel connections. It seems like they see something that was right in front of them for years and it was so simple but they never figured it out. Perhaps this frustrates them, I'm not sure. So they attack the obvious. I'm not saying your comment is intended to be rude. Im not trying to be a jerk, it just makes me sad. Like crabs in a bucket. (Look it up)
Thanks to this hack you never have to tear down and rebuild packs again. I didn't use XT90 connections because on the highest power pull the entire system only sees 150 amps spread over 12 connections. Easy work for an XT60. I have xt90's the will likely be used on the big battery build. 120 8ah Lipo cells. Once again, not directing this comment to you. You don't seem to be using this to elevate yourself. Check out the next two videos. Its awesome! Thanks for watching!
@@TheGoodoftheLand Working with Li-Po's (R/C Airplanes and boats) all the time, I was just concerned that other's didn't see it... That's all. (The Good Lord KNOWS I've made my share of mistakes!). Haha!
I watched the other videos, and you're doing everything I would have done - myself. (Only thing I might've done differently is, using Transfer Screws for the Motor Screw Holes - or just "dial the numbers in" with a DRO and Rotary Table on a mill - but that takes too much time!). Haha! Simpler is Better, I always say!
Good luck with your project, and I subscribed to see your progress.
Thanks for trying that controller and letting us know how it is. Will NOT be using that one lol. Hope your mounting method is STRONG. I do not imagine that most fiberglass kayaks or canoes is going to sustain that kind of force with longevity.
First time commenter love you channel. I have looked for content like this for a kayak before and didn’t have the best of luck can’t wait to see more. The more detail about the performance like amp draw and speed the better for me but will thumbs up regardless. Your content is very interesting thank you for all you do.
Thanks Pj! Testung the kayak in the water this week!
+Pj caylor So I just finished most of the fabrication on the motor mount. Im so excited! It turned out awesome! Che it out on Instagram @goodoftheland. The next video should be out on Saturday. Hopefully it will be a speed test and a range test. That is if I don't kill myself on this beast!. Thanks for watching!
Excelente amigo !!! Muy bueno !!!, Dime el nombre del motor por favor así puedo buscarlo en la pagina que dejaste el enlace 🙏🙏🙏🙏
I love it,what do You reckon You spend și far al includet
O seem you connect the battery in serial. But where are the battery controller to balance the battery voltage. During the charge and discharge process, the battery voltage will change and affect the overall performance.
yes clean your copper, but solder connectors with the other side plugged in too. not connected to a battery, you get them in sets
I saw the all in one welder was wondering if they were any good ?
I would like a stern thruster for my boat. Do you have a recommendation? This set up would be amazing, but it could even be smaller. I don't need that much thrust!
How long does it last ? I have thought about doing something similar with a 24 volt trolling motor as a backup for my boat.
Holy crap. Fixn to watch next video!!!! Shiiii i want one
Nice job. Love my Apachi case!😊
Dude this came right when I needed it
Thank you for your efforts. I'm getting giddy.
Damn dude I'm happy you still have your fingers.
Good day. what size propeller are you using? and which esc? please leave a link.
Hello Mate, one question,, do you think this motor can be used on sea water(salt water)? or it must be waterproofed completely?
How fast will this make a 14 foot aluminum jon boat go, and how much will it cost me to to do this???
Btw...
Can you PLEASE send a link for EVERY product you have on this video???
Thank you...
21:10 The ultimate "That's what she said" 😂
On how many levels is holding that under water at going full power while holding it with one hand.
I know this is old video, but I'm very interested in the motor, and the prop. The links are dead, any idea where I can find similar motor and prop? Or....what are the motor's specs?
Where did you buy the propeller and cylinder drive, brother?
I’ve been looking for this since I saw the pic! I need one on my 12’ lol so glad this popped up
At 14:30 in, the "something happening here" is called counter EMF. The windings of the motor are effectively shorted by the MOSFETs in the controller. That effect can be controlled. For remote control cars it's used as an adjustable brake and you can set a default amount of braking with the remote control. If more braking is desired, the dead stick point can be adjusted accordingly (hope I explained that correctly). Anyway, I'd look for a speed control that had a "trimmer" adjustment rather than what you were thinking at this point.
I am attempting a build using the same SSS motor you have. My motor will be in a dry compartment. I do not know much about the needed electrical components. Would the 300 amp esc used in this video work for the SSS motor and do you have a link for that ESC?
I would use the flyer 400 amp esc.
Did you make the propeller and the casing for the propeller to the motor?
I would like to buy the motor with the propeller and propeller casing to the motor.
Hi I was wondering what size of prop did you use ? 110mm or ......
+Argisht Beigjany this prop is 110 mm. It's would probably operate more efficiently with a smaller prop. Its drawing to many amps. Gear restoration would help but I'm trying to keep as few parts as possible. More parts means more failure points. A simple trident and true gear reduction setup is on the way.
What motor and prop combo should I use to get the most.endurance out. Not looking for Power. 10 mph at the most pushing 250 lb gross weight kayak.
Sorry if I didn't see it but is there a link for the motor that you used Please
The look on your face!!! Priceless!!!
So ho long does the battery last around here its all river so will be fighting the current mostly
I’m trying to figure out what you did to water proof that motor. The SSS56114. Or did you just run it wet?
I ran it wet. Zero protection. It is rumored that DC motors run fine underwater. This was an easy way to answer the question. They run but don't last.
The Good of the Land
Ok. Thanks for that. Gives me confidence in my motor
The batteries don't need cooling as they discharge or charge? When they are all packed together inside insulated case where does the heat go??
Hey man, is there a video with motor in use on water?
Would love to see