Beal Birdie...A GriGri Killer? | Climbing Daily Ep.1489
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- Опубліковано 10 вер 2024
- Get the Beal Birdie here: bit.ly/2NORPXL
A new belay device has arrived, the Beal Birdie. With features that are very similar to the GriGri, but with some improvements, and a better price, are Petzl in trouble? We give you all the features of the Birdie, and let you know what we think.
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SONG: ONE TIME, Lavelle A.J. Daley
Beal Birdie...A GriGri Killer? | Climbing Daily Ep.1489
Following this review I've bought Birdie with hopes to have "Reverso like feeling of giving slack" and I've got really disappointed with it. I don't know what ropes EpicTV has used in the video, but in my case Birdie was blocking easier then Grigri2 while giving slack on both 9.2 and 9.7 ropes. Then as mentioned in video when Birdie blocks it's really awkward to use "thumb" method to give slack faster. Lowering is more jerky and the rope almost always hop to the side like with Grigri, of course you can limit that by putting your dead-rope hand closer to the device, but so you can with Petzl's device. From my experience there are non advantages of choosing Birdie over Grigri just disadvantages...
I also have a birdie and have experienced the same issue dealing out slack especially when feeding for a clip with a 9.5mm rope. It seems like feeding small amounts with the floss method is great but trying to grow out an arm or two of rope is just hard to stop the device locking in comparison to the gri gri. My experience with both now on lead has me wanting to try the Trango vergo; although I think the gri gri might still be the best all round auto braking belay device
I have the Beal Birdie and I'm very satisfied with the performance, the smaller body of the thing makes it less awkward and I feel like I have total control of my rope feed. It's like anything else though, once you get used to something, going to the alternative doesn't feel the same.
One of the things I don't like abt the grigri is I can't feel the rope tension. Since it uses a similar camming mechanism it might be the same but how well can you feel the rope with the birdie?
@@intergalacticflapjack7885 My favorite aspect of the Birdie is more control without binding, however, when you have a load on the rope and it has a lot of tension, the lever gets very sensitive and it just takes a little to release.
I gave a new lead belayer the birdie and they had zero issue feeding slack. Grigri, was short roping immediately. Birdie a powerful belay tool at a great price.
i dont think its fair to draw a conclusion from an inexperienced belayer
I have had the exact opposite experience😂
Can't say I have any issues whatsoever with my Grigri plus. The selector switch for putting into lead mode, combined with a good rope and I have no issues paying out slack. I prefer it to ATC actually in terms of ease-of-use. Admittedly theres a small learning curve, but now that I'm used to it I can't see ever giving it up.
GriGri has been around for almost 30 years. Nothing kills that. I had a GriGri2, sold it because it was really hard to give slack, and then got a GriGri+ and it's just perfect! I will not change my GriGri+ with any other belay device.
they should adjust the spring on the GriGri+ to be a bit harder, then the birdie does not have a single thing going for it except lower price.
the "kinking"-myth really is that, a myth - Using a GriGri(+) and letting the rope run over the side does NOT create any kinks in the rope.
what does is improper clipping of the top and combined with that wrong placement of the belayer (so the rope does not run straight through the TOP).
I would love for them to put out a GriGri+ with a user-adjustable spring (in a certain amount of course) so you could adjust the "high-tension"-setting for even a thicker rope than 9,5mm, which is about the thickest I am really comfortable to belay.
The low-tension-setting could in my opinion get completely rid of ANY spring tension.
Is it a good rappelling device?
I would choose even an figure of eight instead of Grigri+. Horrible device to lower climber down. I have both the Grigri2 and Beal Birdie and like both.
Idk exactly what carabiner he is using but the black diamond gridlock carabiner is a very similar design, Black Diamond recommends you flip the carabiner so the locking side is through the grigri not through your belay loop to prevent cross loading.
I’ll have to check mine when I get home but I don’t think the small side of the gridlock is large enough to pass through the closed up grigri. Can’t really crossload it anyways if the small side is locked into the belay loop.
the way you hold the Birdie's plate down when paying out rope fast is legitimately dangerous belay technique. you are holding the device open while letting go of the brake strand. if you had to brake and clamped your hand down, you are going to both be prevented from grasping the rope (the device is in the way) and allowing the assisted brake to engage. it's also not in the manufacturer's instructions.
when you use the finger catch on the GriGri, you are still able to grasp the rope during any "oh shit" moments. that's why it's in the manufacturer's instructions.
^THIS!!!!
"Just a little bit, loosen that brake hand." he says, as his hand has no grip whatsoever on the brake end of the rope AND is holding open a belay device that, as per his advertisement, feeds really easily. That is absolute Gumby-induced-decking material right there.
I personally like the size (width) of the handle and lowering better than the Grigri. A correction to the video review...it is not all stainless. I've seen this repeated numerous places. It is ALL metal. However the side plates and handle I believe are aluminum. The cam, pinch plate and hardware are stainless.
my thoughts on the quick payout method, since I've had to give feedback on people using birdies during lead checks. the grip shown in the video--technically at least--means the hand is off the brake line since every finger is either holding the device or loose in the air. you can apply enough pressure to keep the cam from engaging with just the thumb and pointer and leaves your other three gripping the brake line.
Superb review well done. Grigri family as it goes we’ve got three and love them. Occasionally have problems associated with a damp rope sticking and kinking but not giving slack as we’ve used them for years and practice make perfect. When my grigri has worn out I’d consider something like this but by that time I expect there’d be version 2 available because the grigri is pretty bomber.
I guess the big bonus with these devices vs other assisted braking or non-assisted devices is if you lose concentration and keep trying to pay out rope during a fall (which could happen due to reaction times if you're just about to start paying our rope at the exact moment the climber falls), then the device will still lock. You were controlling the dead rope the whole time, but just trying to control it in the wrong way.
Birdie for me is quite a lot better. Once you get the technique it's the easiest lead belay camming device on the market. Ergonomically it's lovely too! A major plus is it doesn't twist up your rope like a grigri does! For me that's a major downside of the grigri
This gives me some hope for assisted belay while being left handed. Belaying left handed with a GriGri is literally the worst. I’ve been using a megajul2 and that’s worked great! But it’s not the same, ya know?
Yeah, I agree that the Grigri is awful to use for us left handers. But I'm not so sure this one is that much better. Sure, it might be easier to give slack, but it still looks like you have to switch hand when lowering. That's a dealbreaker for me. I stick with my Mammut Smart.
Have you tried the BD Pilot? It's assisted braking ambidextrous and functions very similar to an ATC. Or the mammut smart 2.0 as well. I'm right handed but I've always belayed left handed.
Camp matic is the best for lefthanded
I’m left handed but use my right hand hold the dead rope and left hand to pay out slack. I would also play golf and swing a bat right handed. I use a computer mouse right handed, but throw a frisbee left handed. I haven’t found the GriGri harder to use because I am left handed, since I am more comfortable doing somethings right handed and somethings left handed.
i use birdie a lot of the time and i am very happy with this belay device
Can you rappel on the birdie?
Interesting that the birdie was recalled if they are of the 2019 model.
Name of Product:
Beal Birdie Belay Devices
Hazard:
The device user can be unable to lower the climber, posing a risk of injury to the climber.
Remedy:
Replace
Recall Date:
March 24, 2021
The slack issue is annoying on the grigri, esp when being belayed by a somewhat inexperienced partner. So... I hope the 'smooth like butter' part of the birdie is restricted to giving slack =D Belay devices dont feel like the type of thing I want to be an early adopter for...
Don't worry. Am using one for 2 months now. Top rope and lead. Belayed light and heavy people, all went well. It's a nice device
@@raouldanmaar cheers!
I should have bought one this afternoon. It's only selling at 40 euros at Decathlon . I don't have a Grigri but thought of buying one but after watching this video I might opt for the Birdie.
Try the old way of feeding rope thru the Grigri - keep your brake hand normal, slide it up the brake end to the device and use your index finger to hold down the camming action
Is €8 really gonna make that much of a difference?
If its just as good then it's a no brainer if you haven't already got a grigri, why on earth would you spend more for something that's the same or worse? I wont have either as I'm a leftie and prefer an atc. But I trust Matt's opinion and wouldn't argue with a saving of any kind.
Perfect example of Betteridge's law of headlines which states that:
"Any headline that ends in a question mark can be answered by the word no"
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Betteridge%27s_law_of_headlines
@@hellboundzed8236 ah, and you mean that the rule doesn't exists because there are exceptions to the rule?
I am afraid but it's the other way around, if there are exceptions, there has to have been a rule before, otherwise there would be no exception.
Exceptions confirm rules.
If this belay device really was the Grigri killer, like the headline suggested, I am quite sure that now, a year later we can quite confidently say that it isn't and that Betteridge's law has been correct once again.
I base this off of anecdotal evidence from climbing trips in the last year where I have seen all kinds of belay devices, the most popular being the Grigri and no Beal Birdie.
Even new climbers buy mostly Grigris.
I am quite confident that the sale numbers also reflect this, it would be nice to compare statistics.
My guess is that the Grigri outsells the Birdie at the very least 10:1, quite possibly even 100:1 or more
How is it bringing up a second on multipitches? I assume the same, but it’s something that matters. (Sorry if I missed it)
same attachment method as the GriGri, so it would be fine on a top belay
@@themeatpopsicle Thanks! that's what I figured, but I thought i would ask.
You guys should do the mad rock lifeguard it’s very similar to the Bertie and The Grigri
Do they sell it in epic TV shop? It won't appear if they don't!
Lifeguard for the win!!
@@EducationProfessional-pc6ep lol
I used a Birdie the other day on a multipitch aid route in Arches. While simual raping a a big pitch the handle of the Birdie heated up and I wouldn't have been able to continue if I wasn't wearing glove. kind of a bummer.
I was also wondering about the heat issues on an all metal device
Hmm.. Good point although i generally don't do longer continual raps with a device like this. BD ATC does it all, especially for multi pitch stuff. I reckon that makes sense but was it worse than the dreaded snapping of the plastic gri- gri handle?. Love the Birdie, binned all of the trashed and worn out gri- gris. Cheers.
@@StaggerLee68 I've never heard of a grigri handle snapping! I've been using mine hard for like 10 years now without trouble
@@evanbarnes9984 We have bins full of them, it just depends if you like plastic or metal in your systems and how hard you beat on your gear, rope access and occasional recreational climbing are two different worlds. Either way, Petzl has become a Monopoly on cheap ass junk for marketing purposes and there are far better gear companies out there that deserve attention. Like hamburgers, you can eat MacPetzl or go get some real food. Cheers!
I am left handed and this thing is great. I have to bought a new girgi every 2 seasons because I ware out the left side of the plate and it turns into a sharp edge. Excited to see how this thing will last.
What about the MadRock lifeguard?
yeah, still trying to figure out how its better than a lifeguard. This thing just doesn't look better.
@@emans4seam do either of you have a lifeguard, deciding between this and lifeguard
Birdie supposedly has better feeding action for lead belay than both.
Our gym uses life guards. I find they feed slack better than grigri but they do not bite as aggressively on a fall. They do cam just fine and we even use them for setting. And they are way cheaper than both.
Was about to mention, they basically copied the madrock lifeguard but perhaps not as well
Not seen the Madrock Lifeguard?... Although I guess that you don't sell it
i wanna see the lifeguard, deciding between lifeguard and this
@@ciaranclare848 I would 100% recommend the Lifeguard. I've never used this Beal version, but I really like Madrock Lifeguard sleeker profile, the Beal one looks like it's got more excess metal.
I'm a qualified indoor lead climbing instructor and never use anything but the Lifeguard and would whole heartedly recommend it to anyone
the only comparison video ive seen of lifeguard vs birdie is in german but in that video (on youtube), they concluded the madrock was a better belay device. the computer/auto generated subtitles to english don't work out too well - essentially they said that paying out slack in lead was easier on the madrock
@@thomascawte6173 I also teach lead climbing, and while I personally always use an atc, the Lifeguard is great for teaching beginners. Gri Gri's usually just confuse the duck out of people, and the sooner they figure out how to belay safely the better in my opinion.
@@climberly 100%. There's a tendency for people to think of devices such as lifeguard/grigri/etc. to mistakenly think of them as "auto-braking"/"auto-blocking" devices rather than the assisted baking devices that they actually are.
Ultimately there is no replacement with proper belay techniques. Personally I'd never teach someone to use a assisted breaking device to belay, bottom/top/lead until they're proficient with a standard plate.
To ammend my previous comment... After having a decent amount of time with a number of the most common belay devices, I never use any device like this apart from a lifeguard for belaying lead... If I'm not using my vcpro2 or bug
You should have an animation of four regular bananas and one lady finger banana… for your thumb. In the intro to your totally badass McAwesome Sauce videos.
I LOVE THIS CHANNEL
Nothing new...the Mad Rock Lifeguard is lighter (150 g), and feeds easier than the GriGri. And cheaper than both
Agreed, The Lifeguard is awesome as well, That said, the Birdie handles fatter ropes better. Tow good devices to slay the gri- gri.
If i ever fell out of love with my revo i'd consider this just to piss off my grigri obsessed climbing partner
Nothing better than the revo for sport climbing if safety is a concern (otherwise just use a tuber)
Any complaints about the revo?
@@andrewp.9541 Heavy and really not good with thick/old and inflexible ropes like you often get as top ropes in climbing gyms. Apart from that, wonderful. Not tried abseiling off it though, would stick to an atc for that
Why would you make concern about few grams when you stand down on the ground using it. It could make a difference when you're soloing
I’m just breaking into this climbing and rappelling world so this may sound like a stupid question, but ,can I rappel with this birdie?
And if yes , being a leftie, can I use my left hand as my brake hand with the birdie ?
I’m not sure how I feel about that lowering method, keeping the braking rope hand still means you’re just letting it slide through, does that mean you could lose control (pull the handle too far) and risk a rope burn? Looks like the control there is coming from the handle then rather than the braking rope?
Not sold. I've been using ATCs since I started climbing in 2002, and I love the simplicity and control I have over the rope.
They're not comparable. These are assisted braking devices, and your ATC is not. ATC people will never accept it, but at the end of the day, if you're only using an ATC and you get knocked out by a rock, or stung by a bee if you're allergic, or struck by lightning or literally anything that causes you to lose your brake hand, the climber is screwed. As unlikely as all of those things are, they're still possible. The amount of rocks I've personally seen break off at the crag is reason enough; not just chossy crags, but even at world class climbing areas. I won't let someone belay me without an assisted braking device, because there's not a good enough reason in the world to ignore adding one of the simplest measures of extra safety. And for anyone that claims it's because of "price" is a joke. You can get an assisted braking device for pennies on the dollar at any gear swap. Didn't mean this as a personal attack on you, I just hate seeing people try and compare the ATC to assisted braking devices when that makes no sense.
@@CollinHurler well said, but cheap>safe for many.
I will say the one exception is a climbing gym where many of those risks are mitigated. I still use a grigri anyways. I do think it’s good to know how to use both.
Thanks! Interesting review! I totally agree with you. I think the 2 parts of metal down the device and the small part for the thumb should be bigger in order to let you guide the rope better when rapeling the person above; plus it shoud have an anti-panick mode like the grigri +. Then it would be a grigri killer for sure. But right now there is no need to change the device.
Just tried lead belay on this. It was tough, just as much struggle as grigri
Pmease compare the beal birdie against the madrock lifeguard. Love the vids!
It looks virtually identical doesn't it? I've used a lifeguard for a couple years and boast about all the same exact things as Matt does the Birdie.
Good video!! I had a birdie after the grigri plus and definitely Birdie is much better, I totally agree the slack is amazing, security, and the metal comfortable design I just love this device!!!!!!!!!!
Not hard to give slack ?
All stainless steel is a plus for canyoneers, as it erodes away slower with long rappels and sometimes sandy ropes.
Any reviews on guiding or rescue? I’m a lefty and would love to dump the gri gri for something less awkward.
Dump the gri- gri as quickly as possible. Don't even sell it, that would be mean. Bin it.
there's also the Wild Country Revo out there, which is symmetrical also. Though it's heavier and more expensive
Try wild countries „Revo“
I tolerate the Grigri as its kind of the "standard", but I always see the bad things people do with the Grigri and how finicky the thing is to use. Personally, whenever possible I prefer to use the ClickUP. It's way easier to use.
Clickup is good. The clickup+ sucks for lead belay. The spring lever/plate preventing the device from clicking up is crap on the +.
@@leepl555 oh really. I havent had the chance to mess with the +, this things are hard to come by in Brazil, and really expensive to bring it here.
PL Lee you're right unfortunately, I bought one with really high hopes and it's only good for top rope belay :(
@@vitorviotti even the regular clickup is very difficult to use for lead belaying. if the climber yanks up the rope to clip in, the clickup will lock
Excellent and incredibly thorough, informative video. Thank you so much for sharing this information!
Do the Trango Vergo next! I own one and love it
I bought a Beal Birdie because I wanted to use altern brands equipment not the known in the market. Unfortunately the handler screw got brocken showing damage ocurring due to force excerted on the mechanism of rope release. So I,m moving to Grigri, and surely after braking the Grigri I have to move to Grillon. Lets see.
Do you feel the birdie would be a better purchase as a first assistive belay device? Or grigri plus?
I tested it-it's not worth it. Lowering-not good, giving slack not as good as ingrigri. It was tiring to use it.
Had mine for 2 months now. Fucking love it!
Stone-Age Productions yep, had the Grigri 2 and now the 3 too. Prefer the Birdie. Much faster as Matt said. Otherwise, not much else, but it’s just so much faster on the rooe
Same here mate. A keeper for sure. Together with my atc pilot a combo for life
Raoul van den Heuvel exactly! Check my climbing insta Climbing_Nothingmore for the combo!
Fucking love mine as well, makes the gri- gri seem like the piece of crap that it is.
Just curious but in the states what do you do if a snake shows up while your belaying or a bear or other dangerous animal
Its not clear. First you say, birdie feeds more smoothly when going slowly, but if you need to give slack faster, you still have to hold it with thumb (like you would grigri) in which case its not ideal because it doesnt have finger catcher. The only problem with belaying (regardless of the device) is giving slack faster, so how is birdie better in this respect than gri gri?
my thoughts. Do i need to use the "gaswerkmethode" like with the GriGri or not? If not, the Birdie is better. If i still have to use the Gaswerkmethode, the Birdie seems less ergonomical, because of no catch for the index finger, as you said.
I suppose we just would find out after using the Birdie a few times in the real world.
Up till 10mm rope I haven't have to use the gaswerkmethode. Read my review at the epicTV shop. 10mm on a fresh rope is also fine, heavy used rope (like in the gym) is grigri style. Just my 2 cents
Grigri 1. Never gets worn, is confortable, and runs perfect thick used ropes.
I tried a GriGri once and didn't like feeding rope through it so I never got one for my kit but this looks promising.
The new grigri plus has 2 modes you can switch between. Top mode and lead mode, lead mode allows you to give more slack. Also the grigri plus has an anti panic feature, where if someone pulls the handle all the way back, it automatically breaks
Paired up with a Grivel Clepsydra must be nice.
Question: Do you have to keep the end of the rope below the Birdie for locking mechanism to work? What im trying to find out is: would the mechanism still lock saving falling partner if you let go the end of the rop with your right hand?
It seems similar enough to the grigri for me to assume that it would. However, don't let go of the brake strand! These are extra safety features, not auto belays.
Not sure why i should go for a Birdie if there is a CAMP Matik.
Recalls: sgbonline.com/recall-birdie-belay-devices/ Too bad for this defect in some of the production, we used it, and it worked ok.
Well after several reviews I went ahead a purchased the Birdie, at the indoor gym it seamed to do fine but once outdoors at Ice Fest in MI it failed miserably. While atop a 50 meter fall i weighted the devise and as soon as I put weigh on it down I went about 10 feet, my back-up saved me. The rope has slipped past the stop between the gate (sorry for the poor description, I do have video of the fail), I could not understand why it wasn't locking then realized what had happened. I was able to replicate the failure by just tugging on the rope with my hands. So that device went strait into the backpack for the remainder of the trip. I took it back to REI and bought a GriGri. Unless they tighten the gap on the device I will not trust my life to it again.
You should do something like this to the Edilrid GigaJul.
I am looking for the same. Please! :)
In america REI occasionally has the grigri+ for $100 instead of 130
Thank U
Cant help but think it'll be far superior to the GriGri for lefties
Us lefties are far too superior to the pesky righties to let a device stop us. I can run my Grigri exactly like a righty can, and it keeps my left hand free for more important things, such as to throw stones at the captive climber I have imprisoned on the end of a rope.
I break hand lefty and sports belay (shortening my slack by sliding hands in the up position limiting my time that I have slack in the system) then swap hands for lowering, Ive had no issues and can do it without looking at my hands which was a big think for me
i use the grigri about 3 years, it amazing and i have a "problem" only in the thirst weeks (2-3) and after that it amazing ( I have the grigri plus )
i am useing**************
Love Epic TV climbing dailies! Great, thorough review. Super minor point- Sticht plate, not stitch plate.
I've used a gri gri 2 a couple times but went back to an atc. Then I bought a lifeguard when it came out and think that it's 100 times better than a gri gri 2. I just bought a birdie but haven't had a chance to use it yet. I'm confused about the little screw that came with it. There's a place to screw it near where it pivots open, but if you install it, you can't open it. In what situation would that be beneficial?
instruction: when the device is intended to be used by inexperienced climbers, it is possible to lock the side plate. it will not be possible to open the device manually, thus avoiding the risk for the user to reverse the direction of the rope
Some climbing gyms have an assisted braking device on every rope in the gym and they stay on that rope. This feature for the Birdie would be great so that gyms can just lock them shut and not have a user remove it and then reload it incorrectly. Also for the cheaper price it would be nice for these gyms that keep an ABD on each rope to get a bunch for cheaper.
Looks nice, but like the Grigri, not much use for the lefty belayer.
Does the Madrock Safeguard do the same thing as these two devices? In the saddlehunting community, the Madrock Safeguard is what most people are recommending for rappelling from trees (when climbing with the "one-stick method"), but some people are using GriGris or Beal Birdies.
Why do Brits say "Beelay"? If there is a flight delay do you also say "deelay"?
Straight up copy of the madrock life guard
It better not be better, I just bought a grigri.
oops! can return it? haha
What bothers me about that solid metal design is that if it's cold out you almost need gloves so your hands don't stiffen up from the cold
make a left handed version of it and I'd give it a shot. only reason i dont own a grigri
Just learn yourself to belay right handed its not that big of a deal
@@tijndevries6574 that sounds just like what my teacher in elementary school said about writing.
why would you use a grigri to give out slack like you would with a simble tube? the grigri is designed for - and also recommends to use - the gaswerk method, and that works just fine and adds another level of consciousness/focus while belaying.
One thing I’ve always wondered: Is it guaranteed to reliably lock when using the gaswerk method? Since you are basically disabling the locking mechanism intentionally.
Michael K if you use the Gaswerk method properly then yes (using only the tip of your thump to hold down the mechanism - the thump only isn't strong enough to accidentally lock the grigri during a fall situation) however, I see people blocking the mechanism with wrapping their whole hand around it, as Matt shown in his video, which is NOT the Gaswerk method and indeed very dangerous
@@Javaz0wn finally somebody describes it properly and 100% correctly! Cheers! Excactly, your thumb isn't as strong as the weight of the falling climber, no chance in hell.
BUT it always wonders me, how somthing so simple to learn and use (GriGri with Gaswerkmethod) so many people fail to do properly. Are there so many Gym rats who are that stupid? I mean, how can you ever use a belay device and be responsible four your climbers life, if you don't know how to use it the right way? That isn't going inside my head! Very dangerous, some idiots from time to time. But also those blind zombies who walk around the corner in a bouldering gym, next to the wall and without looking up! And if you fall or jump down and hit someone, it is also YOU who gets hurt.
Maaaaan, hope all this stupid idiots stay in the gym and get corrected by the staff and people around them and never reach the crag. Otherwise you have one place less to go to escape retards.
what about lowering a climber when belaying from above. That can be very difficult. I like the smart alpine, it’s lighter and can do double and half ropes. It’s cheaper too.
The way that I did it lately, was doing a redirect carabiner into a quad anchor, the grigri or beal birdie is attached to your belay loop and it works as if you are belaying from below. Lowering puts an extra strain on the rope because its going through a carabiner but we assume you dont lower some one on it the whole way down every single climb.
Ive never been a fan of people saying assisted braking devices provide more saftey than a normal tube, because if your in a situation where you drop a break rope you either: should pay the fuck attention or, should be wearing a helmet. IMO, if you need a level of saftey higher than that of a tube, you shouldn't be belaying
Lo primero, disculpa por no escribir en inglés :-)
Mi duda es, ¿has comparado el Birdie de Beal, con el Vergo de Trango?
Me parecen dispositivos muy similares. Yo estoy enamorado de Ciinch (antecesor del Vergo), pero... quizá...
Petzl has spent so much with videos etc. teaching people how to use it and not to drop the lead climber. My problem is if you grab the rope above the device in an instinctive way the rope will run. I know that experienced climbers will come back at me, because they really know how to use it safely. But let me finish with this example. I was in a gym climbing with the North American chief rep for Petzl and we were talking about this problem, when his girlfriend 10 meters away grabbed the upper rope and her friend came screaming down. Fortunately she was high enough not to deck. Beginners beware.
For having a bad memory of short-roping a partner with a grigri, I'm sold!
Armelle R Or just use a Smart. No problem feeding slack, and it's so easy to use.
And it has no moving parts, which is what I love the most.
@@MisterK9739 Never considered it; I'll have a closer look thanks :)
Yep, the Smart is really nice. No moving parts, and it works the same for both left and right handers.
@@mikaelpetersson9113 Tried it out the other day and I had a bit of trouble with the Smart actually (I'm not sold on the Birdie anymore either :p). I liked the BD Pilot though, found it much more fluid!
Steel is preferred more ...and no plastic is even better! There are no aluminium ice screws....it's Titan, same strength as steel...
Is grigri considered the best?
Hi. Where did u get that tshirt?
How is it in a repel?
Can you top rope solo or rope solo with it
Anyone has used it for rappeling/abseiling?
Can u LRS on it?
What about rope soloing with that thing?
Pleas more video’s like this
prefer the camp matik to the grigri . its heavy but feeds nicer and is super smooth to use
I mmust be doing something wrkong .. my birdie is blocking both ways :)) or it just might be that my rope is dirty as ...
Does it exist for left handed people unlike the grigri?
I'm sold. Thanks Matt. For that very informative review. 😃
That's why you can easily let go of the break rope.
I've tested it so many times with knots.
Looks interesting, will wait for version 3 or so before I buy it by then i might replace my grigri. Unless by then there is a new and improved grigri
Buy the Black Diamond "Pilot" ;)
Idk what exactly IS the slacking issue with a grigri? I've never had an issue feeding slack into the thing, but I suppose it's maybe all in the angle of the rope feed?
because there seem to be still people out there, who are not able to use the GriGri as it is intended. With the Gaswerkmethode. Thumb on the break and index finger on the lip. Surprising how many people don't seem to know that.
@@philipppuchner1115 Gaswerkmethode is a crutch and it wasn't supposed to be used when the first grigri came out. So the word "intended" is not that appropriate.
@@mountainsite Since i wasn't climbing when the first GriGri was established, and also since i never had the old, first model in my hands, i obviously cannot tell.
But since at least the GriGri 2 (or newer), and that's what it's all about here, it is a official Petzl recommended belay technique.
It took me 2 times indoor climbing to get used to the GriGri 2 and since then i don't want to switch back. Maybe i would use the Jul2, which i gave to my gf for learning to lead belay and she does that quite good now.
@@philipppuchner1115 It's PITA to belay somebody on their hard redpoint attempt with a rigid 10.2mm rope. You just need to use gaswerk every time. It takes some time to switch your hand to gaswerk position. When the climb difficulty is at the limit, any time is crucial.
With thinner smoother ropes it's not a problem though.
@@mountainsite I first also switched hand positions, since it is recommended, that after usig the gaswerk methode, the hands should return into normal belay position.
Yes, it was shit as you were always too slow. But then, also confirming with 2 instructors not related to each other (because at that time i wasn't experianced), i just let my hands in the gaswerk method position. Yes, and it is not unsafe or anything, because your thumb would have to be stronger than the climbers fall to hold the break open.
AND you are concious all the time when belaying, also where and how your hands are, and you are ready all the time to pull down the break side of the rope in case of a fall. Like with any tuber.
Also when need for paying out extremely fast you just take 2 fast steps towards the wall. And then, after the clip, just takes steps back. It is so much easier... but often you see people standing around like they are glued into that position. Lazy asses. And for first few clips you have to be close to the wall and move around in a small space to give a safe and optimal belay to your climbing partner.
Sad to see all the time people not caring or making up their minds. At least i haven't seen anybody yet whe hod the GriGri with the whole hand to hold open the break.
10.2mm rope... Man... why?
Besides a rope in the gym fix installed for top roping... why? ;)
You're the best!!!
do a better job of controling your volume level between music and voice i finally shut off the video cause i was trying to watch at night with my wife sleeping and kept having to chase the volume very annoying
Very interesting
Heavier than the Grigri? Then not suitable for multi pitches, sorry
I am still to come by something that beats the clickup for me
mammut smart😁
read this after the comment above and pronounced Be-ats in my head! lol
@@matthieubiferi4707 I actually had a belayer feint on a rather hot day and I was in freefall until another friend managed to grab the deadrope so I don't trust stuff that do not firmly lock up
@@matthieubiferi4707 I'd rather a BlackDiamond ATC Pilot. Super intuitive, excellent for beginners like my current climbing partner, or experienced climbers in my local centre alike. The pilot is super light weight, easy to use and reset and does exactly what you want it to (assuming you're not using a GriGri 2/+ for the extra use capabilities such as rope soloing, but the Mammut can't do this either).
Mammut is a great brand though, I won't but approach boots from anywhere else.
@@matthieubiferi4707 I find the Mammut Smart to be sh*t really. Worst device i have ever used. Never again!
There are people out there saying, either use a Grigri or a normal tuber, everything else is sh*t. I may confirm that (but not having used a Smart 2.0, Clickup+ and now a Wid Country Revo and Beal Birdie. Or Mad Rock Lifeguard), but I still love the Edelrid Jul2. Black Diamond just tried to copy it lately and named it Pilot.
Can it belay in a guide mode?
Yes it can, same methods as the grigri. Check their page on how to do it.
of course, it's the same action as with a GriGri.
unfortunately though you cannot switch it into a "low-tension-spring"-mode - coupled with the even higher spring tension the Birdie has, in Guide-mode your rope will definitly slip back through down to your follower. which means you always have to keep tension on the brake strand.. which is just shit.
it will work though, it's just shit for routes where you have much rope hanging below..
Thanks for the review!
I never liked the feeding mechanism of the GriGri. This looks interesting.
it is exactly the same ;)
the spring tension is a bit higher, that's about it..
@@jodelboy He said in the video that feeding is much easier?
@@misterx2133 ..because the spring has more tension
My 4yo lad picks the gri gri2 over the beal,me i like the birdie.
This pseudo-gaswerk method of giving out slack looks really wrong to me. You are not allowed to give out slack with a grigi like this for a very good reason: If you quizze the device with you whole hand you can prevent the caming action. Isn't this a problem with the birdie as well?