I am an engineer by trade and this is what I did. My boat has the same rust at the low point on the x members but not the top. The remaining 3/4 of the beam and the top is just fine. I got 1/8" galvanized flat bar the width and length of the beam and used U bolts to mount the flat bar under the beam. I jacked the trailer up under the center of the beam with the new bar also under the beam to pre-stress the beam. I clamped down the flat bar using 3 U bolts on each side where the beam is in good shape starting from the center and working outward. Then drop the jack and you have a new stress member. The entire bottom section is under tension forces so the flat bar works great and the U bolts have more than enough friction force to hold the flat bar in place. You can use multiple 1/8" bars and layer them if you need more strength and you could also put a bar on top if your x members are weak on the top also. Now all the forces are moved to the trailer side rails and over the axle carrier like they should be. I fixed a 20 yr old bass boat trailer for less than $100. No welding or drilling necessary. My boat just happened to be the perfect width for pre-cut flat bar from Tractor Supply. You could also use bare steel and spray it with primer. Take it apart every year and clean it up, tighten the U bolts, etc.
Wish you were here I could just pay u to fix my trialer,. I have the exact same issue but have no experience with welding or knowing what type of metals I need to buy to weld
Thanks for the video. I have a similar but not nearly as bad problem. I and debating repair ideas. I like the bolt method. I heard that if you try to weld to galvanized metal it produces toxic gas. Not sure if you can even do that. Thanks Joe
yes but make sure you don't breathe it outside and as long as you are not doing a bunch you should be ok. I plan to weld mine up some time but I only have about a mile to the ramp. www.lincolnelectric.com/assets/US/EN/interactive/welding-safety/data/FACT-25.pdf
Little late to the party… it is still on there 4yrs later🤷♂️ We used it on that boat for quite a while and drove back and forth from coast about 2.5hrs each way. We have since gotten a great deal ($700) on an aluminum trailer that we swapped it out with but still using as is for john boat.
That's excellent. I have a utility trailer with some rusted cross members. Do you think this would work for them too? Just thru bolt an angle iron over the cross member?
Really🤔 I can’t believe you could buy new rather than fix it yourself🤦🏼 Although, you would have to cut off old, weld on new, blah, blah… and like I mentioned this trailer wasn’t worth that.
@@BigRedFishDad you would still be fixing it yourself, just installing a new crossmember. That’s why they make replacement parts. Same with autobody work. Would you cut out a smashed panel and weld in a new one or just fill it with filler? The damage is still there and rust will continue in that area. The question is not is the trailer worth it but is the cargo your carrying worth it?
@@johnnyc5863 to each their own… worked well for what I needed and didn’t have to purchase any new metal… if it were an aluminum trailer like what I have now then maybe but bracing worked for me.
I know I noticed I had the wrong angle but I had intended on removing and painting when we had it in the water but the boat ramp was so crowded I couldn't leave it tied up very long. I will be down there this weekend and hopefully get it completed but basically, I drilled 4 holes (at 8:40 you can see one bolt and two of the holes) and then just bolted it to the cross member just like it was on the template I drew (5:32).
I am an engineer by trade and this is what I did. My boat has the same rust at the low point on the x members but not the top. The remaining 3/4 of the beam and the top is just fine. I got 1/8" galvanized flat bar the width and length of the beam and used U bolts to mount the flat bar under the beam. I jacked the trailer up under the center of the beam with the new bar also under the beam to pre-stress the beam. I clamped down the flat bar using 3 U bolts on each side where the beam is in good shape starting from the center and working outward. Then drop the jack and you have a new stress member. The entire bottom section is under tension forces so the flat bar works great and the U bolts have more than enough friction force to hold the flat bar in place. You can use multiple 1/8" bars and layer them if you need more strength and you could also put a bar on top if your x members are weak on the top also. Now all the forces are moved to the trailer side rails and over the axle carrier like they should be. I fixed a 20 yr old bass boat trailer for less than $100. No welding or drilling necessary. My boat just happened to be the perfect width for pre-cut flat bar from Tractor Supply. You could also use bare steel and spray it with primer. Take it apart every year and clean it up, tighten the U bolts, etc.
Wish you were here I could just pay u to fix my trialer,. I have the exact same issue but have no experience with welding or knowing what type of metals I need to buy to weld
Thanks for the video. I have a similar but not nearly as bad problem. I and debating repair ideas. I like the bolt method. I heard that if you try to weld to galvanized metal it produces toxic gas. Not sure if you can even do that. Thanks Joe
yes but make sure you don't breathe it outside and as long as you are not doing a bunch you should be ok. I plan to weld mine up some time but I only have about a mile to the ramp. www.lincolnelectric.com/assets/US/EN/interactive/welding-safety/data/FACT-25.pdf
@@BigRedFishDad thanks for the info. Joe
Did the same thing with my trailer.
Boat= Bust.Out.Another.Thousand!😂 I'm sure you've found that out by now.
Little late to the party… it is still on there 4yrs later🤷♂️
We used it on that boat for quite a while and drove back and forth from coast about 2.5hrs each way.
We have since gotten a great deal ($700) on an aluminum trailer that we swapped it out with but still using as is for john boat.
That's excellent. I have a utility trailer with some rusted cross members. Do you think this would work for them too? Just thru bolt an angle iron over the cross member?
Good job 👍
You can purchase new cross members
Really🤔 I can’t believe you could buy new rather than fix it yourself🤦🏼
Although, you would have to cut off old, weld on new, blah, blah… and like I mentioned this trailer wasn’t worth that.
@@BigRedFishDad you would still be fixing it yourself, just installing a new crossmember. That’s why they make replacement parts. Same with autobody work. Would you cut out a smashed panel and weld in a new one or just fill it with filler? The damage is still there and rust will continue in that area. The question is not is the trailer worth it but is the cargo your carrying worth it?
@@johnnyc5863 to each their own… worked well for what I needed and didn’t have to purchase any new metal… if it were an aluminum trailer like what I have now then maybe but bracing worked for me.
Thanks
I didn't see how you put it in...
I know I noticed I had the wrong angle but I had intended on removing and painting when we had it in the water but the boat ramp was so crowded I couldn't leave it tied up very long. I will be down there this weekend and hopefully get it completed but basically, I drilled 4 holes (at 8:40 you can see one bolt and two of the holes) and then just bolted it to the cross member just like it was on the template I drew (5:32).
Are you kidding me? What a waste of time! Nobody is a welder.
@@BahadirVardar-ww3oy whaaa whaa whaa
Yeah she s a bit risky drive home, mind you it’s a mid span surrounded by a few decent beams, but when you get boat off, go to town on beefing it up
Um, a quick question, is this boat capable of carrying your weight? Haha, I’m a big fella too