This is on my to-do list. Done timing belt, rear axle seals, valve covers, tundra brake upgrade, under hood lights, supercharger, spiker lifts, LBJ, upper control arms, door stoppers … all following your videos, awesome work guys, greatly appreciated thanks
Jimeny Timmy! That was fantastic. Defn one of top 10 vids I've ever watched. Tried to do my own yr + 1/2 ago. Test drive finally in Jan, but 2nd is a bear. So now have courage to drop and try again. Even if I fail, I'm still going to buy you "a beer". Actually two. I want you to go back up to Modesto and share with Nick. Hope I don't have to call them and just buy another trans. Thanks my fren.
I'm happy to know you appreciated this video series. Nick did an excellent job documenting all the steps necessary to rebuild an R150F transmission. Good luck with the second rebuild, and thanks for the beer donation.
Sean and I lucked out developing a good relationship with Yota1 Performance. It's by far our favorite partnership with a company. Nick was the star of the project, and most of the credit should go to him. The filming and editing was a ton of work too, so I guess we deserve some credit. Thanks for the compliment. We appreciate it!
Awesome. This two-part set has been fab. Really great to see the teardown and rebuild process and thanks to Nick for doing all the hard work, while you two just got in his way and asked the questions. Seriously though it does show great integrity for all at YOTA1 to allow you to film while they display their great skill and knowledge. The R150F shows a seemingly striking resemblance to my G52, but just like your recent rear axle bearing work, the skill is in knowing the similarities and subtle differences and the tricks to success. It’s clear there are many ways to get all this wrong, and trained and experienced eyes are very valuable to get a properly serviced result. Must check those serial numbers on mine!
This is the kinda stuff that you can show the world because you know 99.9% of viewers will still send their transmission in to be rebuilt by professionals. Its funny. A lot of specialty shops guard their knowledge. But they completely fail to realize this is God-Tier Marketing. No one that watches this video would dare to question the integrity or capability of Yota1
Amazing video. I rebuilt my 1st W56 last year. I have plans next year for a project that I will need an R150 and will be using this video as a reference. Thanks again for the great tech info!
If your pilot bearing seizes and wears a groove in the tip of your input shaft, like the shaft at 2:37 it is possible to save the shaft without replacing it. You'll have to turn the tip of the shaft down to a smaller diameter, and then machine a bushing with an ID that is a tight press fit onto the machined tip. The outer diameter of the bushing must be a slip fit into the pilot bearing (same as the original unworn tip of the input shaft). Press the bushing onto the tip of the shaft, and you're ready to run it. Those input shafts are expensive. I've done it and put another 60K on the truck since then. EDIT: Swapped the transmission to find the the bushing had failed. I would now recommend replacing the shaft or retipping it at your own risk.
It sounds like you have tooling the average person doesn't have. You must have a metal lathe. I'm sure Yota1 could perform what you're suggesting because they have the tooling, but normal everyday people aren't going to have a lathe in their garage. I could also see this as not cost productive for a shop to perform because the time they spend on the machining has to be charged to the customer, and hourly rates are high. So, they just sell the customer a new input shaft and call it a day. Thanks for the comment, though, and sharing how a worn input shaft can be saved from the scrap pile.
@@TimmyTheToolman Correct, you'd need a lathe to do this. It's more viable to pay a machine shop than you'd think as the work is pretty straightforward. I think I paid $90 and saved myself from tossing a $300 input shaft. Nick isn't wrong to replace them, but us DIY guys sometimes have to save a little money. Videos like this are a huge help. You're the go-to guy for Toyota repair content.
@@definitelynotpewdiepie Gotcha. Yeah, hiring a machine shop to do it for you makes perfect sense. Thanks for the kind words for our channel. Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman Timmy, I have returned to eat some humble pie. I swapped the transmission with the repaired the input shaft this weekend and discovered that the bushing had walked off the tip of the input shaft into the crank. It wore about a .050 deep groove in the pocket for the pilot bearing. It was not catastrophic, but definitely not a proper fix. Some guys in the GM world have had success retipping input shafts, so perhaps it was just bad execution. Maybe the press fit was too loose, or maybe the bushing was too thin. Either way, I was wrong on this one. I'll edit my previous comments so I don't give people bad ideas. I used your clutch replacement video series to get the swap done, and the truck drives much better because of it.
Thanks for the detailed vid, especially on the shift rods. I'm most of the way through an R151F rebuild which has turned into a nightmare. I needed to replace a few parts and as it was the older style box, some are no longer available. I had to replace the countershaft, which meant I had to upgrade to the new style fifth. This has led to me replacing most of the gearbox piece by piece as I try and figure out what new bits I need for it to all work together. I thought I had the final pieces (new reverse gear, reverse selector and fork etc) though I've just discovered that the pivot that you talk about at 42:12 is actually shorter on the new style box, so the new reverse setup won't work as the throw is different, so the forks don't line up. Hopefully someone sees this that needs to, as if I was to do this again I would just buy another box and save myself a lot of money.
Thanks for dropping a comment and sharing your experience, sometimes you don’t know until you tear into the thing. Anyways, we are glad our video has helped you along the way and you used Yota1 to source some of the parts you needed 🤙🏼 - Sean
this video is just amazing like your excellent channel, I am third gen lover too, I am from Bogota Colombia and here I have a manual toyota J95 Prado from the same era and same 5vz engine as 4runner, not sure if it has the same transmission, but the prado's have the same problems as third gens like LBJ failures, but the difference is that Prados are all time 4wd, probably US people will start import this old ones to US
Thanks for the compliment. It would be my guess you have the same manual transmission. The full-time 4wd is a component of the transfer case. Importing can be pretty costly from what I've heard, so I don't know if people from the US would import them. I know there's lots of interest importing land cruisers from overseas, but again, it's costly. Maybe one day I'll visit Colombia. Thanks for the comment.
i just bot one of these for my '97 Taco sr5 with 341k miles with a chewed up input shaft... box is currently in Lathrop CA and heading 2200 miles east to ChicagoLand ... UPS ground shipping rate was 313$
My 00 tundra got stuck in 3rd speed i unassembled the tranny & the 5th gear thrust washer got cracked in 2 pieces idont know if thats the reason plus no one mechanic wanted to laid hands on it was about to trashed it but this video gave me hope & motivation to give it a try & fix it thanks i will update the outcome
Hopefully Yota1 will still have these for another 10 years or so, along with the 5VZ-FE. I plan to drive my 02 Tacoma 5sp for another 20 years and then they can take the keys from me. Question I did watch a video by Car Care Nut and he said you must use GL-4 gear lube for the manual transmissions. The service manual says GL-4 or 5 and that's what I've been using for the 280K on it now with no issues. Reverse is sometimes hard to get in gear but I just let off the clutch and re-engage and that works. Probably should change it out closer to 30K instead of 50K though.
I would go by the owners manual. The Car Care Nut Guy is good, but he wasn't involved in the design of the vehicle and figuring out the spec of gear oils to use. I would definitely renew your transmission gear oil every 30k.
@@TimmyTheToolman i musta let mine go a bit TOO long a couple of times 8^(... the most recent product used was the highly touted redline MT-90 stuff (which I think is GL-4?) that really made the stick NOT STIFF on very cold starts near zero degrees and colder during last winter
@schadlarry ... I watched that same video from the Car Nut LOL... I am located close enough to the car nut shop in Chicago to get in for maintenance and repairs beyond my health abilities but the wait time is nearly 2 months! so in emergencies I am totally F'n screwed to the local slopShops
@@efil4kizum Good mechanics will have more work than they can handle. He seems pretty good and doesn't cut any corners. South Main Auto is another good YTer.
Ask, and you shall receive! Keep in mind, they head blasted the surface so if you’re going to throw some paint on one of your housings, make sure you clean it really good. amzn.to/3MapZ5O
Great instructional video. I don't know why the third gear hub doesn't have splines all the way around. The gearbox I'm working on failed at this point, totally stripping these splines out on the shaft... hence the gearbox had no 3rd or 4th gear. You can buy an upgraded hub with the splines all the way around.
After watching this I feel like I could rebuild my r150f. That said I'm also okay with paying 1700 for this level of quality rebuild. Hopefully mine will last a long time yet as long if I can quit my bad habit of being lazy with the clutch shifting to third and grinding it....
@@TimmyTheToolman Yeah I don't know why my muscle memory just decides to left off the clutch a tad early every once in a while (It's not often but I know I'll eventually have an extra neutral there one day if I can't break that).
how many miles do you have on your R150F? ... mine started grinding that 3rd gear up high (and i could definitely FEEL it) near the end recently after 330k miles on original clutch still. I would have to gingerly put it into 3rd from 2nd gear hesitating a bit before and it usually did not grind it. so it was either the wearing clutch that did this, the pilot bearing freezing on the input shaft (found the tip chewed up and pilot bearing fell apart) or the input shaft bearing that was found wobbly. the other odd grinding noises (mostly 2nd gear whilst slowing down shift from 3rd to 2nd) i could only Hear and Not Feel... 2-2-24
1:49 ... most common failure is the input shaft... how exactly would that fail?, what are symptoms and how to diagnose that? I am having some driving issues with my Taco that may or may not be related to this and am just drilling down onit. Truck has 337k miles on the original factory clutch and R150f... started having some obscure weird vibes rattles underneath this past year in the Arkansas heat while on the road at 295k miles. When i got back home took it into a local tranny shop and paid good coin (90$) to find them tell me that absolutely NOTHING is wrong they could find. perhaps it was just an exhaust hangar tapping. the vibes at the start only occurred in the RPM range of 2k to 2.25k... later in the summer it started to also have some weird ping ping ping in the RPM range of 2.5k to 3k RPM shift zone... i do not usually take the engine past 3k RPM unless in 5th gear on the open freeway... please help me diagnose this if possible? my head is spinning in circles from all of these weird vibes and not knowing all that much about this LOL... but the video is a major plus in knowing and seeing all of the hidden parts and what they look like, etc.
We're not going to be able to effectively diagnose a noise/vibration issue effectively over the internet. There's too many possible causes. It could be wheel bearing. It could be a u-joint in the driveshaft. It could bad engine or transmission mount. It could be a problem with the differential. It could be an issue with the transmission or transfer case. And, othe causes, like something simple like wheel balancing.
@@TimmyTheToolman I completely understand, it could be anything! I have had 3 wheel bearings get roached up front on driver side already in the past 2.5 years. both CV axles recently ripped to shreads throwing grease all over... all the other parts mentioned are aged and original factory parts! with many miles... for all I know it could be the exhaust crossover pipe making some of the hot-weather rattling or even the cat. I am at the point now of just throwing new parts at everything! because I do not fully understand how it all works until I found your UA-cam channel used to self-educate myself, which helps out very much! ... perhaps there is somebody else out there in Yota world reading the comments that has encountered similar issues by now on their old rig and knows what the proper fix is... the first odd rattle I had 3 years ago that was not able to be diagnosed proper by local Yota Pros had to be driven until it finally broke on me one day and I still had no clue what it was but the noise stopped and a new & very pricey part was replaced LOL
@efil4kizum I've never listened to a worn pilot bearing, but bad bearings in general can make a droaning noise, a grinding noise, or a squealing noise.
@@TimmyTheToolman i do think those are the noisy sounds I have been hearing for most of this past year off and on since it first popped up in northern Arkansas at 294k miles and eventually got worse and worse and worse. 8^(
Sounds like a broken gear or a bad bearing the gear rides on. Regardless, the grinding is telling you it's time for a rebuild. Have you tried engaging the clutch in other gears to see what happens?
I'm not certain that is a possibility. I'd have to watch the video to analyze if that would work. But, since I'd rather not put the time into it, I think calling Yota1 with that question would be easiest.
Nope. You've got to remove the countershaft to get the input shaft off. No way around it. The helical gear on the input shaft wont allow it to slide off the main shaft while it is meshed with the gear on the countershaft.
@@definitelynotpewdiepiethank you for your knowledge and input, it is most appreciated! I have some other concerns and ???s to field off those that know the ins and outs of this R150F that I just had a rebuilt installed in a Chicago shop and finally got my Tacoma back home
My Nissan hard body clutch fork is shaking does anybody know if that can introduce air into the system through the slave cylinder push rod shaking cause I have to bleed every 3-4 days just to drive it.... I replaced the slave and master 6 or 7 times there's not a single leak in the system it's not losing any fluid.....
The current cost is $1700 plus a refundable $500 core charge. The amount refunded can change though due to what damage is found inside the core transmission you return to Yota1.
This is on my to-do list. Done timing belt, rear axle seals, valve covers, tundra brake upgrade, under hood lights, supercharger, spiker lifts, LBJ, upper control arms, door stoppers … all following your videos, awesome work guys, greatly appreciated thanks
With the right tools, you could pull it off no problem using this video as a tutorial. Nick did an excellent job explaining everything.
Jimeny Timmy! That was fantastic. Defn one of top 10 vids I've ever watched.
Tried to do my own yr + 1/2 ago. Test drive finally in Jan, but 2nd is a bear.
So now have courage to drop and try again.
Even if I fail, I'm still going to buy you "a beer". Actually two. I want you to go back up to Modesto and share with Nick.
Hope I don't have to call them and just buy another trans.
Thanks my fren.
I'm happy to know you appreciated this video series. Nick did an excellent job documenting all the steps necessary to rebuild an R150F transmission. Good luck with the second rebuild, and thanks for the beer donation.
Incredible! So much more than a regular Honda!
Yeah, Toyotas are much more fun to work on.
Loved it
one of your best videos Tim....mine a R150F and this was enlightening
Sean and I lucked out developing a good relationship with Yota1 Performance. It's by far our favorite partnership with a company. Nick was the star of the project, and most of the credit should go to him. The filming and editing was a ton of work too, so I guess we deserve some credit. Thanks for the compliment. We appreciate it!
Awesome. This two-part set has been fab. Really great to see the teardown and rebuild process and thanks to Nick for doing all the hard work, while you two just got in his way and asked the questions. Seriously though it does show great integrity for all at YOTA1 to allow you to film while they display their great skill and knowledge. The R150F shows a seemingly striking resemblance to my G52, but just like your recent rear axle bearing work, the skill is in knowing the similarities and subtle differences and the tricks to success. It’s clear there are many ways to get all this wrong, and trained and experienced eyes are very valuable to get a properly serviced result. Must check those serial numbers on mine!
I'm happy to hear you enjoyed the series. We appreciate your comment.
This is the kinda stuff that you can show the world because you know 99.9% of viewers will still send their transmission in to be rebuilt by professionals. Its funny. A lot of specialty shops guard their knowledge. But they completely fail to realize this is God-Tier Marketing. No one that watches this video would dare to question the integrity or capability of Yota1
Amazing video. I rebuilt my 1st W56 last year. I have plans next year for a project that I will need an R150 and will be using this video as a reference. Thanks again for the great tech info!
Thanks Mike. I'm happy to know you appreciate the tech shared in this video series. Happy Wrenching!
Thanks bro I love your work ❤ from Eritrea 🇪🇷
If your pilot bearing seizes and wears a groove in the tip of your input shaft, like the shaft at 2:37 it is possible to save the shaft without replacing it. You'll have to turn the tip of the shaft down to a smaller diameter, and then machine a bushing with an ID that is a tight press fit onto the machined tip. The outer diameter of the bushing must be a slip fit into the pilot bearing (same as the original unworn tip of the input shaft). Press the bushing onto the tip of the shaft, and you're ready to run it. Those input shafts are expensive. I've done it and put another 60K on the truck since then.
EDIT: Swapped the transmission to find the the bushing had failed. I would now recommend replacing the shaft or retipping it at your own risk.
It sounds like you have tooling the average person doesn't have. You must have a metal lathe. I'm sure Yota1 could perform what you're suggesting because they have the tooling, but normal everyday people aren't going to have a lathe in their garage. I could also see this as not cost productive for a shop to perform because the time they spend on the machining has to be charged to the customer, and hourly rates are high. So, they just sell the customer a new input shaft and call it a day.
Thanks for the comment, though, and sharing how a worn input shaft can be saved from the scrap pile.
@@TimmyTheToolman Correct, you'd need a lathe to do this. It's more viable to pay a machine shop than you'd think as the work is pretty straightforward. I think I paid $90 and saved myself from tossing a $300 input shaft. Nick isn't wrong to replace them, but us DIY guys sometimes have to save a little money. Videos like this are a huge help. You're the go-to guy for Toyota repair content.
@@definitelynotpewdiepie Gotcha. Yeah, hiring a machine shop to do it for you makes perfect sense. Thanks for the kind words for our channel. Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman Timmy, I have returned to eat some humble pie. I swapped the transmission with the repaired the input shaft this weekend and discovered that the bushing had walked off the tip of the input shaft into the crank. It wore about a .050 deep groove in the pocket for the pilot bearing. It was not catastrophic, but definitely not a proper fix. Some guys in the GM world have had success retipping input shafts, so perhaps it was just bad execution. Maybe the press fit was too loose, or maybe the bushing was too thin.
Either way, I was wrong on this one. I'll edit my previous comments so I don't give people bad ideas. I used your clutch replacement video series to get the swap done, and the truck drives much better because of it.
Thanks for the detailed vid, especially on the shift rods. I'm most of the way through an R151F rebuild which has turned into a nightmare. I needed to replace a few parts and as it was the older style box, some are no longer available.
I had to replace the countershaft, which meant I had to upgrade to the new style fifth. This has led to me replacing most of the gearbox piece by piece as I try and figure out what new bits I need for it to all work together. I thought I had the final pieces (new reverse gear, reverse selector and fork etc) though I've just discovered that the pivot that you talk about at 42:12 is actually shorter on the new style box, so the new reverse setup won't work as the throw is different, so the forks don't line up.
Hopefully someone sees this that needs to, as if I was to do this again I would just buy another box and save myself a lot of money.
Thanks for dropping a comment and sharing your experience, sometimes you don’t know until you tear into the thing. Anyways, we are glad our video has helped you along the way and you used Yota1 to source some of the parts you needed 🤙🏼
- Sean
Excellent video
Thank you very much!
- Sean
Again, thank you for putting out another awesome video! Very informative, well-done guys!
We were stoked to get this opportunity and appreciate your comment! Sicmods!!!
- Sean
Very informative really helped me during my day to day task mostly involved in gear box rebuild. ❤🙏
I'm glad our video series helped you out.
These two vids are so helpful! Thanks guys!
Hey Adam, that's great you found the videos helpful. You're very welcome.
Thank you guys
You're welcome.
Great video. Thanks 🙏🏼
@@manny1782 You're welcome.
this video is just amazing like your excellent channel, I am third gen lover too, I am from Bogota Colombia and here I have a manual toyota J95 Prado from the same era and same 5vz engine as 4runner, not sure if it has the same transmission, but the prado's have the same problems as third gens like LBJ failures, but the difference is that Prados are all time 4wd, probably US people will start import this old ones to US
Thanks for the compliment. It would be my guess you have the same manual transmission. The full-time 4wd is a component of the transfer case. Importing can be pretty costly from what I've heard, so I don't know if people from the US would import them. I know there's lots of interest importing land cruisers from overseas, but again, it's costly. Maybe one day I'll visit Colombia. Thanks for the comment.
@@TimmyTheToolman sure you're welcome here in my country and my house too
@@RotoRCol Thanks!
i just bot one of these for my '97 Taco sr5 with 341k miles with a chewed up input shaft... box is currently in Lathrop CA and heading 2200 miles east to ChicagoLand ... UPS ground shipping rate was 313$
Have fun with the rebuild.
Job done right
Yep, Nick know what he's doing.
My 00 tundra got stuck in 3rd speed i unassembled the tranny & the 5th gear thrust washer got cracked in 2 pieces idont know if thats the reason plus no one mechanic wanted to laid hands on it was about to trashed it but this video gave me hope & motivation to give it a try & fix it thanks i will update the outcome
Good luck with the rebuild.
Hopefully Yota1 will still have these for another 10 years or so, along with the 5VZ-FE. I plan to drive my 02 Tacoma 5sp for another 20 years and then they can take the keys from me. Question I did watch a video by Car Care Nut and he said you must use GL-4 gear lube for the manual transmissions. The service manual says GL-4 or 5 and that's what I've been using for the 280K on it now with no issues. Reverse is sometimes hard to get in gear but I just let off the clutch and re-engage and that works. Probably should change it out closer to 30K instead of 50K though.
I would go by the owners manual. The Car Care Nut Guy is good, but he wasn't involved in the design of the vehicle and figuring out the spec of gear oils to use. I would definitely renew your transmission gear oil every 30k.
@@TimmyTheToolman i musta let mine go a bit TOO long a couple of times 8^(... the most recent product used was the highly touted redline MT-90 stuff (which I think is GL-4?) that really made the stick NOT STIFF on very cold starts near zero degrees and colder during last winter
@schadlarry ... I watched that same video from the Car Nut LOL... I am located close enough to the car nut shop in Chicago to get in for maintenance and repairs beyond my health abilities but the wait time is nearly 2 months! so in emergencies I am totally F'n screwed to the local slopShops
@@efil4kizum Good mechanics will have more work than they can handle. He seems pretty good and doesn't cut any corners. South Main Auto is another good YTer.
@@efil4kizum I've used the MT-90 stuff before. It's good.
Good explain super 💯 video thanks
You're welcome
I've been keeping an ear open for exactly what type of paint is applied to these fresh-looking cases? haven't heard anything about that yet!
Ask, and you shall receive! Keep in mind, they head blasted the surface so if you’re going to throw some paint on one of your housings, make sure you clean it really good.
amzn.to/3MapZ5O
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks, I thought it might be something like POR-15 paint! that will not chip that easily they say
Great instructional video. I don't know why the third gear hub doesn't have splines all the way around. The gearbox I'm working on failed at this point, totally stripping these splines out on the shaft... hence the gearbox had no 3rd or 4th gear. You can buy an upgraded hub with the splines all the way around.
That's good to know you can buy an upgraded hub. Who makes it?
@@TimmyTheToolmanfrom what I have researched it is a genuine part. Fits a few model Toyotas and is an upgrade that can be done.
After watching this I feel like I could rebuild my r150f. That said I'm also okay with paying 1700 for this level of quality rebuild. Hopefully mine will last a long time yet as long if I can quit my bad habit of being lazy with the clutch shifting to third and grinding it....
Yeah, with this video series anyone could rebuild their R150F transmission provided they have the right tools. Grinding gear ain't good. Stop that!
@@TimmyTheToolman Yeah I don't know why my muscle memory just decides to left off the clutch a tad early every once in a while (It's not often but I know I'll eventually have an extra neutral there one day if I can't break that).
how many miles do you have on your R150F? ... mine started grinding that 3rd gear up high (and i could definitely FEEL it) near the end recently after 330k miles on original clutch still. I would have to gingerly put it into 3rd from 2nd gear hesitating a bit before and it usually did not grind it. so it was either the wearing clutch that did this, the pilot bearing freezing on the input shaft (found the tip chewed up and pilot bearing fell apart) or the input shaft bearing that was found wobbly. the other odd grinding noises (mostly 2nd gear whilst slowing down shift from 3rd to 2nd) i could only Hear and Not Feel... 2-2-24
1:49 ... most common failure is the input shaft... how exactly would that fail?, what are symptoms and how to diagnose that? I am having some driving issues with my Taco that may or may not be related to this and am just drilling down onit. Truck has 337k miles on the original factory clutch and R150f... started having some obscure weird vibes rattles underneath this past year in the Arkansas heat while on the road at 295k miles. When i got back home took it into a local tranny shop and paid good coin (90$) to find them tell me that absolutely NOTHING is wrong they could find. perhaps it was just an exhaust hangar tapping. the vibes at the start only occurred in the RPM range of 2k to 2.25k... later in the summer it started to also have some weird ping ping ping in the RPM range of 2.5k to 3k RPM shift zone... i do not usually take the engine past 3k RPM unless in 5th gear on the open freeway... please help me diagnose this if possible? my head is spinning in circles from all of these weird vibes and not knowing all that much about this LOL... but the video is a major plus in knowing and seeing all of the hidden parts and what they look like, etc.
We're not going to be able to effectively diagnose a noise/vibration issue effectively over the internet. There's too many possible causes. It could be wheel bearing. It could be a u-joint in the driveshaft. It could bad engine or transmission mount. It could be a problem with the differential. It could be an issue with the transmission or transfer case. And, othe causes, like something simple like wheel balancing.
@@TimmyTheToolman I completely understand, it could be anything! I have had 3 wheel bearings get roached up front on driver side already in the past 2.5 years. both CV axles recently ripped to shreads throwing grease all over... all the other parts mentioned are aged and original factory parts! with many miles... for all I know it could be the exhaust crossover pipe making some of the hot-weather rattling or even the cat.
I am at the point now of just throwing new parts at everything! because I do not fully understand how it all works until I found your UA-cam channel used to self-educate myself, which helps out very much! ... perhaps there is somebody else out there in Yota world reading the comments that has encountered similar issues by now on their old rig and knows what the proper fix is... the first odd rattle I had 3 years ago that was not able to be diagnosed proper by local Yota Pros had to be driven until it finally broke on me one day and I still had no clue what it was but the noise stopped and a new & very pricey part was replaced LOL
what kind of noises might an aged + worn pilot bearing make?
@efil4kizum I've never listened to a worn pilot bearing, but bad bearings in general can make a droaning noise, a grinding noise, or a squealing noise.
@@TimmyTheToolman i do think those are the noisy sounds I have been hearing for most of this past year off and on since it first popped up in northern Arkansas at 294k miles and eventually got worse and worse and worse. 8^(
Don't never use your shifter for an armrest
Huh?
Nice👍🤝
Thanks!
I have a 1996 Toyota t100 with the r150f in it when you try to put it in first gear it grinds when you let the clutch out what would cause that
Sounds like a broken gear or a bad bearing the gear rides on. Regardless, the grinding is telling you it's time for a rebuild. Have you tried engaging the clutch in other gears to see what happens?
can the input shaft and that bearing be replaced WITHOUT cracking the case open?
I'm not certain that is a possibility. I'd have to watch the video to analyze if that would work. But, since I'd rather not put the time into it, I think calling Yota1 with that question would be easiest.
Nope. You've got to remove the countershaft to get the input shaft off. No way around it. The helical gear on the input shaft wont allow it to slide off the main shaft while it is meshed with the gear on the countershaft.
@@definitelynotpewdiepiethank you for your knowledge and input, it is most appreciated! I have some other concerns and ???s to field off those that know the ins and outs of this R150F that I just had a rebuilt installed in a Chicago shop and finally got my Tacoma back home
My Nissan hard body clutch fork is shaking does anybody know if that can introduce air into the system through the slave cylinder push rod shaking cause I have to bleed every 3-4 days just to drive it....
I replaced the slave and master 6 or 7 times there's not a single leak in the system it's not losing any fluid.....
I'm not sure about your question. This is not something I've ever heard of happening.
How much did this cost?
The current cost is $1700 plus a refundable $500 core charge. The amount refunded can change though due to what damage is found inside the core transmission you return to Yota1.
@@TimmyTheToolman also minus return shipping cost on core in the big custom box?
@@efil4kizum Yes, that would be correct.