Round of applause and thank you! This has been the best instructional yet on reworking a harness. As it was said before me,I feel can do this and save myself some money on buying a stand alone. 👊✌
Thanks again Will. I"ll figure out what circuits are not necessary for my 6.0 swap situation and get busy and find a stock fuse block for my application. Very helpful to get wires release their homes.
Hey Have seen lots of videos. I have done 2 harness a different way. I think I will do this for my next one. You did an excellent job. I appreciate you. thanks for sharing.
Excellent video! I’ve been on the fence about doing an LS swap on my 1970 Firebird, now that I’ve seen your video, I feel much more confident with the electrical part. Good stuff🤙🏽🤙🏽
Great video. The only thing I'd do differently is that I would not tape the wires up tight, because the shortest wire in the bundle will get all of the tension and over time it could fail and cause issues that will be very difficult to diagnose.
You should be using wire loom tape. Its got a fabric backing instead of plastic and the glue does not make a sticky mess if you have to take it apart in the future.
Awesome, it's really simple, I don't know why more people don't do it this way. There's nothing wrong with pinouts and chopping the harness on a bench, this is just faster and less prone to screw a wire up.
That's a great idea using a Seam Ripper to cut the tape. Most even have the little protective ball of plastic on the very tip which would protect the wires. I'll have to try it out.
I have a hoist and fully equipped outdoor cement slab (before the hurricane. It was a carport ), it won't be too bad , im pretty decent at turning a wrench ..just boring by myself ..
For something that new I'm not sure, I mainly just mess with older engines. If you can't find one online you may need to get a Haynes or Chilton's manual that includes the wiring diagrams and make your own cheat sheet. Sounds like a fun project !
Thank you for all of your wiring videos! They have been a huge help in my swap on my s10. I do have one question though in the harness, what did you do with the ground splices where multiple grounds meet up? I’m stripping the rear o2 sensors and other plugs like the coolant level or oil level switch and all their grounds are spliced together
I usually just cut the ground wire thats being removed off near that splice and heat shrink over the end, then tape it up. Not 100% necessary since it's just a ground wire, but it makes it look cleaner.
@@wilsworkshop sounds good to me!! That should work pretty good. I started laying my harness out under the hood today so I can get it organized how I would like. I think I’m going to tuck most of the wiring by guns fuel rails instead of over the top of the motor. Most of it lines up but I’m going to have to lengthen the drivers side injectors and throttle body plugs. Should be pretty tidy when I’m done hopefully
Awesome, very thorough yet simple and informative. how do you flash the ECM to take off what you are not using? or who did you get to Flash the ECM for Stand Alone?
Wil's Workshop which HP Tuner system do you use or which do you recommend? Any advice would you give to someone who is wanting to learn tuning? PS, I'm a old guy trying to step into present times.
Lifted it up and took it close to my torch. All most got out under the load? Set it all back on the ground. High heat,flex Plat bolts came loose then!Magic!
The engine harness is simple because it only has connectors for engine related sensors & one that connects the the PCM. It's the other harness(the one that distributes power that can be difficult if you don't take your time & familiarize yourself with it.
The other harness that you mentioned is likely the power distribution harness, which distributes power to various electrical components of the vehicle 3. This harness can be difficult to work with if you are not familiar with it. It is important to take your time and understand how it works before attempting any repairs or modifications.
First of all....love your videos, clean and simple and detailed! I have a question for you, I am doing an s10 like you done on another video, my question is I am wanting to use my current gauges and try to keep everything factory per say. Do I need to use the fuse box from my swap or can I use my fuse box from my s10. If I use my s10 fuse box I assume I would need to repin the other connectors to match the swap ECU?
You can use both fuse blocks, I never removed the stock S10 one, it ran the lights, gauges, etc.. I installed a separate fuse block just for the engine/trans swap.
MAF, MAP, Cam, Crankshaft, Temperature, TPS, O2's, and Knock sensors are the ones you need. The oil pressure and oil level sensors usually just run to the BCM/Dash and not the engine computer.
They usually aren't 100% necessary. I've done swaps where I bypassed them completely and didn't have issues. But I usually connect them so the computers happy with fuel pump relay control and other items.
While a lot of your video and information was very useful and good information, there's a few things you don't wanna do. The main thing is do not bend your wires over like you did in the bulky areas. There's several reasons why but the main is you're weakening the wire when you do that and are just creating future problems for yourself and making it a pain in the ass to troubleshoot those problems.
It's not an ideal situation (this is a budget harness after all), but, I've taken apart plenty of OEM harnesses that have folded wires from the factory, GM has been doing it at least since the 80's. I still drive cars I folded wires on 20+ years ago, no issues. With quality stranded solid copper TXL, SXL or GXL wire I don't think it's a concern. CCA wire, sure, that stuffs garbage.
Great video Wil ! Could u b so kind as too explain ur fuel source. Wat u used and how u hooked it up. I didn't c any thing on the run stand. That wud make a great video along with ur dash panel with key start and mechanical gauges. sum of us newbies r not very bright.....lol
Fuel source for the run stand is pretty basic. It's a metal 1 gallon paint can with a stock fuel pump from a truck in it. Two 6an bulkhead fittings installed in the lid, then 6an line ran to the fuel rail (pressure regulator on stock rail). There's a relay that powers the pump that's just controlled from the key-on position. It's the same setup that would work on a vehicle, just using a paint can instead of a gas tank.
This video is giving me the courage to do my own standalone for my next swap. One question you may know....previous harness I bought for my 79 swap Blazer had 2 wires marked "check engine light" and I'd like to connect it to the stock dash. Can I assume one is power to the light, and the other ground?
Thanks for the video demo. I'm sure it will save me some money. I've got an 03 suburban like to pull the engine and transfer it into my 87 Chevy pickup. What type of budget transmission have you used in your projects?
The 4L60e's that came in the trucks are the most budget option there is. They aren't the best choice for heavy vehicles or modified engines, but will work if it's just a daily driver type vehicle. Second choice is a 4L80e. They can be found cheap enough to still be considered budget and can usually take more abuse then a stock rotating assembly can put out.
I have a 08 Colorado...5 cyl...I don't like the 5 cyl...so I have one 4.8 L...06 chevy express engine...and a 6.0 engine...also. I heard that they both can work in a swap...I have never done one b4...but I'm up for it...can a 4L80E trans work with this?
I don't have enough experience with the newer engines to really offer any advice on them. If you go on the HPTuners forums you should be able to find out why someone suggested that route. There could be tuning limitations in the newer PCM's.
Liked your video.maybe you could make one on using circuits necessary from the original harness such as the antilock brake wiring and incorporating that into the standalone harness.if that is what you do.thats where is I am now and I am totally baffled.any help would be greatly appreciated
It would be too vehicle specific for me to do a video on it, since it would be different for each vehicle. Just focus on one wire at a time and you'll be able to get it done for yours.
@@wilsworkshop nobody seems to approach this subject.i get the whole stand alone harness part,but I have a 98 Chev that I'm putting a 5.3 in and it must pass ny state emissions inspection.i am at a loss on this one.thanks for your reply will, you're pretty awesome dude
It's just not common enough for there to be a bunch of videos on. Integrating the ABS into the engine computer isn't needed or done for the vast majority of LS Swaps is all. I don't think I've seen any videos on it either, but there is information out there that I've read on how to do it. Most of the swaps I do either don't have ABS, or the ABS module is separate and works by itself without being wired to the LS PCM.
Mostly just keep the stock AC parts intact with a compressor that fits on the 5.3L. Then a couple wires to the computer (mainly to control idle RPM and electric fans).
Im curious where that purple wire at B8 is for? Brandan over at Lt1swap shows using B11 for switched 12 volt on 99-02 fuse blocks and B11 I think on the 03-07’s. Whats also baffling is you didnt hook that purple to anything before you started the engine
I used the purple wire as a starter relay output wire for a different setup. I just reused the connector for this demonstration since it already had the wires removed. For this setup I wired the starter directly to the ignition switch, bypassing the stock relay, so the purple wire wasn't used or mentioned.
"Flashed Stand alone computer" I heard you say the body control module would not be used and certain emission items would be removed. Are you saying that somebody flashes a PCM/ECM to eliminate the extras you cut out? You also used a code reader for your ADL connector. Does this mean you will not have a Check engine light on your final set up? What about output wiring to gauges? Obviously the Control unit requires the temp sensor and oil pressure inputs for performance and fuel control. But, will you be able to output that info to gauges or will you be needing to provide for separate gauge wiring?
Custom tuners can reflash the PCM to match the application. For gauges, there's different options depending on the vehicle, but yes, the computer will still output the stock gauge signals. Check engine lights are boring, I never use them.
Wil, I'm currently running a Tremec T56 Magnum manual 6 speed with all the wires connected to Dakota Digital dashboard interface box. I want to just pitch all the Auto Transmission wires from my 6.0 stock wiring harness swap engine. Am I missing anything by doing that? Thank you. Great explains in your videos. I learned a great deal. Regards, Matt P
Is there enough wire from the fuse box and CPU to be able to relocate them into the cab? I`m thinking of a 1948-53 chev truck with not a whole lotta room under the hood to hide stuff.
Most of the wires are too short on the driver side to pass the harness thru the firewall. The best option for that is to buy an extended aftermarket harness.
On the driver side head in the back is where all the grounds junction together. I had to cut the black wire on the LH coil plug to feed the other wired around it. There are 2 junctions wherw grounds combine. I lost track on where the coil harness went. Can i just combine all the grounds together?
Yep you can combine all the grounds. I often extend and re-route them to the front of the heads in swaps if there's no firewall clearance for me to fit my hand back there and everything works fine.
Wow.... I've stayed away from something like this cause of the harness. It always seemed intimidating the wire harness anyway. So I've always been a carb guy. Can I use the factory computer or do I have to have this stand alone computer u talk about ? Thanks
The standalone I mentioned is just a factory computer with the Vehicle Anti Theft (VATS) disabled so it will run in an engine swapped car. Normally the engine computer needs to talk to the Body Control Module to turn VATS off and start the engine, but a swap won't normally use a BCM so it needs to be disabled in the tune.
Instead of removing the pin and wire from the connector, could you just cut the wire right at the connector? Is it okay to do this or will it cause an issue?
You can, but it's possible the cut wire can ground against something or get water in it and cause corrosion. If you don't want to de-pin the connectors it's just better to leave the extra wires in the harness.
So that harness you have is it from another car and you adjust it to work on the car you are working on? And to make a new harness from another car harness, do you need to remove 1st your harness and make the new harness like your original? I think maybe to mimic the original harness from another car harness, since can't find what I need exactly. But what harness to buy, fm/larger car, so the length of the wires will be sufficient and you can cut it to the desired length? Thank you for your film, very interesting to see professional work with auto wires.
For the truck harnesses, they're all the same , from a 1999 Silverado to a 2006 Escalade. They dont have differnt length wires on any of them, so using a stock harness will always have limitations, but they're super cheap.
@@wilsworkshop Thank you for your replay. I'm sorry I didn't mention that it is a small passenger car 2001 Saturn SL2. I thought it doesn't matter, you buy a bigger harness and then adjust to your smaller one. But maybe you can't use for the passenger car the harness from the truck, maybe totally different wires (like diameter).
If you want a longer wiring harness, theres aftermarket ones available that have a few extra feet worth of wire to the computer and fuse blocks. PSI is a good choice.
Rubbing alcohol might be better for cleaning since it evaporates so easily. I always buy 91% and dilute it if needed. Generally cheaper that way, then put it in a used up spray bottle.
It might be a dumb question or its been asked but how do I know what I don't need?. Like the evap and what not for sure. How do I mechanically remove that stuff?.thanks in advance.
On my test stand I have a fuel pump wired on a separate relay that's activated by key-on power. You can use the stock relay and fuse for the fuel pump on the stock fuse block. The computer will activate the relay for 4 seconds when the key is first on to prime the system, then on during crank and run.
Great job on video, but I am interested in the engine/run stand you made. Can you describe how you made it or make a video on it? It looks like it only made for running at idle to check function and leaks correct?
It runs at any RPM I could want. I've revved the engines to redline on the stand. It has braces on the sides so it doesn't rock or fall over when revving. I may do a video on one later since I need to make a second one at some point.
Where did you get your computer reflashed to get tge vehicle anit theft removed im getting a whole 2001 Tahoe with a 5.3 and I'm putting it in my 98 jeep wrangler and what fuel pressure should I have to make it run well
I used HP Tuners to remove VATS, but there's lots of choices online to get yours done. Stock fuel pressure is 4 Bar - 58 PSI. @ 30GPM If your engine is mostly stock , a stock fuel pump works great. I have a couple videos installing stock fuel pumps in projects.
Hey brother I have a question? I bought this 5.3 from a Chevy avalanche and I want to use a drive-by Cable but this avalanche came with the drive-by wire my throttlebody doesn’t have those kind of plugs what can I do?
The harness I learned how to make from your video was a Camaro one so it had the correct plugs this one does not have the same kind of plugs it’s from a Chevy avalanche 04
To switch a drive by wire to a drive by cable you'll need to purchase the IAC and TPS connectors, then run the wires back to the correct pins on the computer connectors. You can reuse the DBW wires, just switch them to the right spots. It's not too bad, just takes a little work with pinout sheets.
I've built several harnesses and I've never thought to do it this way. This is genius
Glad ya liked it
Does that work o MN av6 votteck replacing a 4 cyl s10?
@@wilsworkshop *k km, ]]⁹
What a F#%&nd mess
There’s people like me with no patience whatsoever
Good Job. Simplicity and Common Sense is always best.
Round of applause and thank you! This has been the best instructional yet on reworking a harness. As it was said before me,I feel can do this and save myself some money on buying a stand alone. 👊✌
Glad it helped!
U said it best thanks
Yes it's good
Looks more easier
Dude, you literally just made me believe I can do this myself! You’re the man! Thank you for this video
You can do it!
😂
You are the man ♂️
Thanks again Will. I"ll figure out what circuits are not necessary for my 6.0 swap situation and get busy and find a stock fuse block for my application. Very helpful to get wires release their homes.
I love the fact you went right to the project. Very good info, thanks
Glad it was helpful!
bravo! my confidence just grew 100%!!! thank you looking forward to my project now!!
You got this!
Thank you for your time patience and instruction. Best of luck to you and your future endeavors
Thanks, you too.
Thank you, it’s so simple the way you described it.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much, I'm building a 5.3 Porsche 944 and I'm trying to save money as much as possible. I will be using this as a resource! Thank you!
Hey Have seen lots of videos. I have done 2 harness a different way. I think I will do this for my next one. You did an excellent job. I appreciate you. thanks for sharing.
Glad it helped
Excellent video! I’ve been on the fence about doing an LS swap on my 1970 Firebird, now that I’ve seen your video, I feel much more confident with the electrical part. Good stuff🤙🏽🤙🏽
It can be a little overwhelming at first, but once you get the parts and just do 1 wire at a time, it's actually pretty easy.
@@wilsworkshop i just picked up a complete harness,computer,and fuse block! gonna pick up the 4Le60e from the same suv tommorow.
Thank you sir for getting to it and helping out us DIY'ers...
Any time!
Amazing job señor , hands down for you , salute) thanks for the info , now I just gained more trust on how to do my new project involving my neon !
Great to hear!
Great video. The only thing I'd do differently is that I would not tape the wires up tight, because the shortest wire in the bundle will get all of the tension and over time it could fail and cause issues that will be very difficult to diagnose.
best video I've ever seen on the subject
best comment I've ever seen
You made it look easy,I thank you!!!
You can do it!
You made this understandable! My goodness I can do it !!! Thanks bro!
You can do it!
Thanks you give me confidence to attempt my project truck.
Go for it!
You should be using wire loom tape. Its got a fabric backing instead of plastic and the glue does not make a sticky mess if you have to take it apart in the future.
Sticky wiring is my fetish. Also, I'm really cheap and that fancy cloth tape is like $10 a roll or something.
It's called Tesa tape
I must have gotten some really
low quality Tesa tape because mine still made for a sticky mess 2 years later.
Great Job I am impressed thankyou for posting
Thank you too!
The best simple video I've seen to date been looking for a simple way just made my day thanks
Glad it helped
@@wilsworkshop hello would there a problem with using shrink wrap instead of loom?
Man that was a awesome video! Made perfect sense, and not rocket appliance either!!
Glad you liked it!
Really nice video. Helped me to work out what im tryin to do
I’ve seen a lot of videos but this one .....this man is Awesome...
Thanks for watching
Badass!!! Thanks for the info!!! Very useful video!!
Glad it was helpful!
SOUNDED REAL GOOD.
HEROOOOO, Thanks for such a informative video. Great job my dude!!
Any time!
Thank u for take the time out of your day👍🏾👍🏾🤟🏾🤟🏾
Any time
I appreciate this video so much man! Thank you!!
Very helpful stuff! Thank you!
Great video! You made it easy!
Glad it helped!
Your good thank u it my first time doing this watch a lot of videos ur the best one
Good work! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the info about to start mine
No problem 👍
I just finished mine... first start right up wow so simple but I cut myself with the razor blade on my finger it’s pretty bad..Well worth it
Awesome, it's really simple, I don't know why more people don't do it this way. There's nothing wrong with pinouts and chopping the harness on a bench, this is just faster and less prone to screw a wire up.
That's exactly what I was thinking to do conect evrethin and remove whatever wiring left 👍
Right on
Great video man
Can you make a video building your test stand? Great video!
The best video I ever seen
The best comment I ever seen !
Nice work 😎
Thanks ✌
Genius about doing the harness on the engine. I use a tool to cut the tape etc that a seamstress would use to take apart threads on a pair of pants.
That's a great idea using a Seam Ripper to cut the tape. Most even have the little protective ball of plastic on the very tip which would protect the wires. I'll have to try it out.
The seamripper works amazing for opening up harnesses without damaging wiring. Get a couple, they're cheap and don't last forever.
Great video!!! Thank you sir!!!!
Glad you liked it!
Great video thanks !
Glad you liked it!
New subscriber!!!🔥🔥🔥
Welcome!!
I have a hoist and fully equipped outdoor cement slab (before the hurricane. It was a carport ), it won't be too bad , im pretty decent at turning a wrench ..just boring by myself ..
Thanks Wil. You make it look simple.
I have a 15 LV3 with factory harness and I want to use the FPCM. Where can I find pinouts?
For something that new I'm not sure, I mainly just mess with older engines. If you can't find one online you may need to get a Haynes or Chilton's manual that includes the wiring diagrams and make your own cheat sheet. Sounds like a fun project !
I’ll have to do this soon. Thanks for the video
Wow that's interesting!
Thank you for all of your wiring videos! They have been a huge help in my swap on my s10. I do have one question though in the harness, what did you do with the ground splices where multiple grounds meet up? I’m stripping the rear o2 sensors and other plugs like the coolant level or oil level switch and all their grounds are spliced together
I usually just cut the ground wire thats being removed off near that splice and heat shrink over the end, then tape it up. Not 100% necessary since it's just a ground wire, but it makes it look cleaner.
@@wilsworkshop sounds good to me!! That should work pretty good. I started laying my harness out under the hood today so I can get it organized how I would like. I think I’m going to tuck most of the wiring by guns fuel rails instead of over the top of the motor. Most of it lines up but I’m going to have to lengthen the drivers side injectors and throttle body plugs. Should be pretty tidy when I’m done hopefully
Awesome, very thorough yet simple and informative. how do you flash the ECM to take off what you are not using? or who did you get to Flash the ECM for Stand Alone?
I use HP Tuners for flashing.
Wil's Workshop which HP Tuner system do you use or which do you recommend? Any advice would you give to someone who is wanting to learn tuning?
PS, I'm a old guy trying to step into present times.
Thanks,getting closer.
It's out and on the ground.
Flex bolts next !!!!!
You'll get it, one step at a time!
Lifted it up and took it close to my torch.
All most got out under the load?
Set it all back on the ground.
High heat,flex Plat bolts came loose then!Magic!
Oh yeah.
Disconnect the cam sensor wire before that last flex Plat bolt.SNAP!!
Awesome thanks brother
No problem 👍
The engine harness is simple because it only has connectors for engine related sensors & one that connects the the PCM. It's the other harness(the one that distributes power that can be difficult if you don't take your time & familiarize yourself with it.
The other harness that you mentioned is likely the power distribution harness, which distributes power to various electrical components of the vehicle 3. This harness can be difficult to work with if you are not familiar with it. It is important to take your time and understand how it works before attempting any repairs or modifications.
First of all....love your videos, clean and simple and detailed! I have a question for you, I am doing an s10 like you done on another video, my question is I am wanting to use my current gauges and try to keep everything factory per say. Do I need to use the fuse box from my swap or can I use my fuse box from my s10. If I use my s10 fuse box I assume I would need to repin the other connectors to match the swap ECU?
You can use both fuse blocks, I never removed the stock S10 one, it ran the lights, gauges, etc.. I installed a separate fuse block just for the engine/trans swap.
Thanks so much. At last I understand.
Glad it helped!
Great video very informative straight to the point do you know of where I can find out exactly wich sensor I need to keep thank you
MAF, MAP, Cam, Crankshaft, Temperature, TPS, O2's, and Knock sensors are the ones you need.
The oil pressure and oil level sensors usually just run to the BCM/Dash and not the engine computer.
@@wilsworkshop thank you I really appreciate it.another quick question are the plugs for the neutral safety switch needed thx again
They usually aren't 100% necessary. I've done swaps where I bypassed them completely and didn't have issues. But I usually connect them so the computers happy with fuel pump relay control and other items.
Nice job
Thanks!
While a lot of your video and information was very useful and good information, there's a few things you don't wanna do. The main thing is do not bend your wires over like you did in the bulky areas. There's several reasons why but the main is you're weakening the wire when you do that and are just creating future problems for yourself and making it a pain in the ass to troubleshoot those problems.
It's not an ideal situation (this is a budget harness after all), but, I've taken apart plenty of OEM harnesses that have folded wires from the factory, GM has been doing it at least since the 80's. I still drive cars I folded wires on 20+ years ago, no issues. With quality stranded solid copper TXL, SXL or GXL wire I don't think it's a concern. CCA wire, sure, that stuffs garbage.
It is a wire, not a garden hose. Like to know where you got that bit of information.
Great clear how too !! At 20:11 mark you have a blue connector what was that for where was it plugged in too originally thanks
It should be one that goes to the dash, I've never needed it but I think it's HVAC controls or something similar.
Well done
Thanks
I like your second tensioner to delete the power steering pump. What tensioner is that and how did you mount it?
It's a random tensioner from my junk pile, GM 6 rib pulleys are pretty universal. Mount is just a plate I drilled.
Great video Wil !
Could u b so kind as too explain ur fuel source. Wat u used and how u hooked it up.
I didn't c any thing on the run stand. That wud make a great video along with ur dash panel with key start and mechanical gauges. sum of us newbies r not very bright.....lol
Fuel source for the run stand is pretty basic. It's a metal 1 gallon paint can with a stock fuel pump from a truck in it. Two 6an bulkhead fittings installed in the lid, then 6an line ran to the fuel rail (pressure regulator on stock rail). There's a relay that powers the pump that's just controlled from the key-on position. It's the same setup that would work on a vehicle, just using a paint can instead of a gas tank.
Does this mean the fuel pump is just always running? Or does it only run when pressure is needed? (Does it sense that by itself?)
@@Slowtrickdotcomseems as if its always running
Thank you kind sir!
Very welcome!
Awesome
This video is giving me the courage to do my own standalone for my next swap. One question you may know....previous harness I bought for my 79 swap Blazer had 2 wires marked "check engine light" and I'd like to connect it to the stock dash. Can I assume one is power to the light, and the other ground?
Yep, should be power and ground, it notlrmally dosent matter which is which for a light.
@@wilsworkshop Doesn't matter for an incandescent bulb. If using an LED bulb, you need to mark which wire is positive and which is negative.
Hell yeah now I'm motivated what about the standalone ecm where u get that at?
For stock engines you can get them just about anywhere. Aftermarket cams and stuff you'll need to find someone to tune it for you.
Great video. Easy to follow and understand. Wouldn't you need to turn off VATS before firing the motor though?
Yep, the wiring harness is just the wiring, the computer still needs VATS turned off.
awesome
Thanks for the video demo. I'm sure it will save me some money. I've got an 03 suburban like to pull the engine and transfer it into my 87 Chevy pickup. What type of budget transmission have you used in your projects?
The 4L60e's that came in the trucks are the most budget option there is. They aren't the best choice for heavy vehicles or modified engines, but will work if it's just a daily driver type vehicle.
Second choice is a 4L80e. They can be found cheap enough to still be considered budget and can usually take more abuse then a stock rotating assembly can put out.
Can a stock 3 speed transmission be used. Or a 700r4.
If it can bolt to a SBC, then yes. But you may need adapters for the torque converter or flywheel.
Thanks...a million
You bet !
I have a 08 Colorado...5 cyl...I don't like the 5 cyl...so I have one 4.8 L...06 chevy express engine...and a 6.0 engine...also.
I heard that they both can work in a swap...I have never done one b4...but I'm up for it...can a 4L80E trans work with this?
Dude you might have just changed my mind on doing this
Sweet !
Nice
Great video, can I do this to a 2019 L84 5.3? I’ve been told to toss the ecm and buy a different stand alone ecm, what’s your advice?
I don't have enough experience with the newer engines to really offer any advice on them. If you go on the HPTuners forums you should be able to find out why someone suggested that route. There could be tuning limitations in the newer PCM's.
NICE VIDEO, QUICK QUESTION , WHAT ABOUT THE ECU, STILL WE CAN USE THE SAMEONE, THANKS A LOT FOR THE INFO.
You'll need a PCM programmed for standalone operation.
Liked your video.maybe you could make one on using circuits necessary from the original harness such as the antilock brake wiring and incorporating that into the standalone harness.if that is what you do.thats where is I am now and I am totally baffled.any help would be greatly appreciated
It would be too vehicle specific for me to do a video on it, since it would be different for each vehicle. Just focus on one wire at a time and you'll be able to get it done for yours.
@@wilsworkshop nobody seems to approach this subject.i get the whole stand alone harness part,but I have a 98 Chev that I'm putting a 5.3 in and it must pass ny state emissions inspection.i am at a loss on this one.thanks for your reply will, you're pretty awesome dude
It's just not common enough for there to be a bunch of videos on. Integrating the ABS into the engine computer isn't needed or done for the vast majority of LS Swaps is all. I don't think I've seen any videos on it either, but there is information out there that I've read on how to do it. Most of the swaps I do either don't have ABS, or the ABS module is separate and works by itself without being wired to the LS PCM.
Awesome man. I have a 92 Silverado I’m going to install a 2003 5.3 w 4l60e. What do I need to keep to run the ac system on the truck?
Mostly just keep the stock AC parts intact with a compressor that fits on the 5.3L. Then a couple wires to the computer (mainly to control idle RPM and electric fans).
Me to a 2006 5,3
I was so distracted by the snot whistle 😂
Great job what computer used and how much did it cost you
Stock computer, 58 dollar, 60 cent.
Im curious where that purple wire at B8 is for? Brandan over at Lt1swap shows using B11 for switched 12 volt on 99-02 fuse blocks and B11 I think on the 03-07’s. Whats also baffling is you didnt hook that purple to anything before you started the engine
I used the purple wire as a starter relay output wire for a different setup. I just reused the connector for this demonstration since it already had the wires removed. For this setup I wired the starter directly to the ignition switch, bypassing the stock relay, so the purple wire wasn't used or mentioned.
While watching the video I had a flashback doing GPS for Car City, most if not all the General Motors product has a purple wire running to the starter
"Flashed Stand alone computer" I heard you say the body control module would not be used and certain emission items would be removed. Are you saying that somebody flashes a PCM/ECM to eliminate the extras you cut out? You also used a code reader for your ADL connector. Does this mean you will not have a Check engine light on your final set up? What about output wiring to gauges? Obviously the Control unit requires the temp sensor and oil pressure inputs for performance and fuel control. But, will you be able to output that info to gauges or will you be needing to provide for separate gauge wiring?
Custom tuners can reflash the PCM to match the application. For gauges, there's different options depending on the vehicle, but yes, the computer will still output the stock gauge signals. Check engine lights are boring, I never use them.
Wil, I'm currently running a Tremec T56 Magnum manual 6 speed with all the wires connected to Dakota Digital dashboard interface box. I want to just pitch all the Auto Transmission wires from my 6.0 stock wiring harness swap engine. Am I missing anything by doing that? Thank you. Great explains in your videos. I learned a great deal. Regards, Matt P
The only thing you might want to keep is the VSS, it can help smooth out engine surging when stopping and shifting if you keep it connected.
Is there enough wire from the fuse box and CPU to be able to relocate them into the cab? I`m thinking of a 1948-53 chev truck with not a whole lotta room under the hood to hide stuff.
Most of the wires are too short on the driver side to pass the harness thru the firewall. The best option for that is to buy an extended aftermarket harness.
On the driver side head in the back is where all the grounds junction together. I had to cut the black wire on the LH coil plug to feed the other wired around it. There are 2 junctions wherw grounds combine. I lost track on where the coil harness went. Can i just combine all the grounds together?
Yep you can combine all the grounds. I often extend and re-route them to the front of the heads in swaps if there's no firewall clearance for me to fit my hand back there and everything works fine.
Freaking genius
Wow.... I've stayed away from something like this cause of the harness. It always seemed intimidating the wire harness anyway. So I've always been a carb guy.
Can I use the factory computer or do I have to have this stand alone computer u talk about ? Thanks
The standalone I mentioned is just a factory computer with the Vehicle Anti Theft (VATS) disabled so it will run in an engine swapped car. Normally the engine computer needs to talk to the Body Control Module to turn VATS off and start the engine, but a swap won't normally use a BCM so it needs to be disabled in the tune.
Instead of removing the pin and wire from the connector, could you just cut the wire right at the connector?
Is it okay to do this or will it cause an issue?
You can, but it's possible the cut wire can ground against something or get water in it and cause corrosion. If you don't want to de-pin the connectors it's just better to leave the extra wires in the harness.
So that harness you have is it from another car and you adjust it to work on the car you are working on? And to make a new harness from another car harness, do you need to remove 1st your harness and make the new harness like your original? I think maybe to mimic the original harness from another car harness, since can't find what I need exactly. But what harness to buy, fm/larger car, so the length of the wires will be sufficient and you can cut it to the desired length? Thank you for your film, very interesting to see professional work with auto wires.
For the truck harnesses, they're all the same , from a 1999 Silverado to a 2006 Escalade. They dont have differnt length wires on any of them, so using a stock harness will always have limitations, but they're super cheap.
@@wilsworkshop Thank you for your replay. I'm sorry I didn't mention that it is a small passenger car 2001 Saturn SL2. I thought it doesn't matter, you buy a bigger harness and then adjust to your smaller one. But maybe you can't use for the passenger car the harness from the truck, maybe totally different wires (like diameter).
If you want a longer wiring harness, theres aftermarket ones available that have a few extra feet worth of wire to the computer and fuse blocks. PSI is a good choice.
@@wilsworkshop O'K, thank you. I'll keep that in mind.
Excuse my ignorance, but are you plugging this now modified loom to a holley Ecu or a GM ecu? And I guess that saves you the $1,500+ for a Holley.
It''s a GM computer.
Rubbing alcohol might be better for cleaning since it evaporates so easily. I always buy 91% and dilute it if needed. Generally cheaper that way, then put it in a used up spray bottle.
Alchocal is a good choice for cleaning also.
It might be a dumb question or its been asked but how do I know what I don't need?. Like the evap and what not for sure. How do I mechanically remove that stuff?.thanks in advance.
Each swap is different, you just have to decide what you want to keep and what you want to get rid of. It's not an easy question to answer.
What did u use for fuel pump relay and power. Is it because you powerd up the fuse box and the fuel pump relay is running pump ????,
On my test stand I have a fuel pump wired on a separate relay that's activated by key-on power. You can use the stock relay and fuse for the fuel pump on the stock fuse block. The computer will activate the relay for 4 seconds when the key is first on to prime the system, then on during crank and run.
Great job on video, but I am interested in the engine/run stand you made. Can you describe how you made it or make a video on it? It looks like it only made for running at idle to check function and leaks correct?
It runs at any RPM I could want. I've revved the engines to redline on the stand. It has braces on the sides so it doesn't rock or fall over when revving. I may do a video on one later since I need to make a second one at some point.
Did you purchase an engine stand and modify it into a run stand? It looks like a Harbor Frieght model.
It's the harbor freight heavy duty model as the base structure.
Cool, it looked like it. If you get time I think it would be a good video to do if you are looking at building another one. Thanks for responding!
Ditto on the engine stand video. Really like your videos and the stand looks simple enough that an average guy could build one
What's the reason for leaving out the evap, communication, and o2 wires?
I'm taking a 5.3 ls out of a 2010 Silverado going into my 97 s10 can do what u did with the wire harness from the 2010 onto the s10
Sorta, but it will look completely different since 2010 is a Gen4 engine/computer/wiring harness.
Where did you get your computer reflashed to get tge vehicle anit theft removed im getting a whole 2001 Tahoe with a 5.3 and I'm putting it in my 98 jeep wrangler and what fuel pressure should I have to make it run well
I used HP Tuners to remove VATS, but there's lots of choices online to get yours done.
Stock fuel pressure is 4 Bar - 58 PSI. @ 30GPM
If your engine is mostly stock , a stock fuel pump works great. I have a couple videos installing stock fuel pumps in projects.
thanks
Bad ass bro
Thanks !
Hay buddy wow your great but one question after removing all the pins do u have to reprogram the brain
Hey brother I have a question? I bought this 5.3 from a Chevy avalanche and I want to use a drive-by Cable but this avalanche came with the drive-by wire my throttlebody doesn’t have those kind of plugs what can I do?
The harness I learned how to make from your video was a Camaro one so it had the correct plugs this one does not have the same kind of plugs it’s from a Chevy avalanche 04
To switch a drive by wire to a drive by cable you'll need to purchase the IAC and TPS connectors, then run the wires back to the correct pins on the computer connectors. You can reuse the DBW wires, just switch them to the right spots. It's not too bad, just takes a little work with pinout sheets.