Good video as always. But tonight I'm so happy -- by following your methodical examples, I just repaired my own vehicle (Honda Odyssey) WITHOUT firing the parts cannon first!!! I studied the schematics, did some tests on the various solenoids and oil pressure sensor (this is for P2646 which I know you fixed in another video), read the solenoid commands and oil pressure values via the TopScan, and determined the oil pressure sender was messed up. Fixed that one part, and voila! I now have no Check Engine light, and I restored the Cruise Control and VSA.
We just got rid of our daughters 2012 K with the 3.6. Worst Jeep we've ever owned. Both heads had to be replaced, one under warranty, the other not. That thing consumed 2 qts of oil every 5000k, dealership said that's considered normal! Multiple thermostats replaced, fuel pump, axle seals, ball joints, misfire codes, the list goes on and all she did was drive to school and work, never off roaded! Glad to be rid of it!!
I had one leak so bad on cylinder #3 it would hydrolock the engine and blow the starter. I drained almost a gallon of antifreeze out of the oil pan drain. The customer had very little money so I offered a sealant (Blue Devil) and they said to go ahead. That's been almost 2 years ago and has had no issues. I don't like to do that but it was the only option that I could offer. Thanks!
I hope the owner is doing this till she finds a engine. This is the best temp Fix that most of the time out last the cars if it in the northeast with the salt.
@@richardpope9985 They drove it up until it was traded last month for a Honda Odyssey. The water pump did fail from them overheating it so many times before the Blue Devil.
AH, a genuine Penta engine, it runs on 5 cylinders. That was an excellent demonstration or how to diagnose the cooling system issue which is actually a symptom of an engine problem. And then the bit at the end being able to show how the leak actually takes place inside an engine. That cylinder is probably part of the oil consumption, as the coolant has no doubt led to bore and piston damage. A coolant leak into the combustion chamber does not show up in the oil as the stuff goes out the exhaust. When the coolant can get past the head gasket into the oil return galleys it does create the crankcase milkshake. If CO2 and CO are coming out of the radiator it also confirms a combustion leak.
Pretty obvious diagnostic, Ivan! And that whitish foam in the coolant cap, is engine oil seeping into the coolant. Definitely a blown gasket, probably because the head is warped and doesn't seat properly.
Remember years back I had two jeepster's with the Buick 225 V-6's I plowed snow ,hauled trailers of firewood in rough country plus drove 50 miles a day to & from work, they never let me down.
Haven’t watched yet, but working at a CDJR dealer here’s what I think: recently (in the last year) OEM thermostats were on back order, many shops installed motorad or Murray thermostats. We saw at least a dozen come back within months stuck closed. This overheated several engines to the point of head gasket failure. You are correct, the old 3.6 isn’t known for head gasket issues, but we certainly saw several after that thermostat debacle! (The newer 3.6 “upgrade” engines, however, are starting to show a pattern of head gasket failure around 100k miles)
I love when I can get a bore scope in there with the system pressurized and can visually watch the leak, super satisfying making the call at that point. If you ever have a ford 1.5 coolant loss and misfire come in the shop just immediately go to this method and you’ll see the leak lol and unfortunately for those it’s either a head or block casting issue so it’s a long block recommendation every time
Well penstar engines are junk. Big time, they eat coolant, head gaskets if you don't take care of them. But very good video! Great diagnosis!! Good job Ivan!
They're both great individually and together, they've worked together too, not to mention beating out ScannerDanner . SD got a bit jaded for my liking.
@@davidstleon8388 I also watch it. Eric is amazing. It's a difficult hair to split. Ivan for me is a bit more entertaining and enthusiastic. Enthusiasm is something I lost some time ago
Ivan the Cerebral I enjoy, but not in every case. Diagnostics to prove a blown muffler? Well Ivan's your man! He'll nail it down solid 50 ways to Sunday. No disrespect whatsoever, but sometimes the glaringly obvious is the galaringly obvious. And of course when it looks obvious but isn't, Ivan's the man. SMA? Well there's your bedrock guy. Great at diagnostics, artisan with a torch, tough guy growly voice, softie with wife and pets -- you know you'll get the straight goods from that guy. And has a continuous sound track accompaniment from lawnmower man and that guy and locomotives.
The worse thing is that there wasn't much oil in the engine. With all that coolant mixing with the oil when the car is parked , the milkshake mixture should have been much higher on the dipstick. I think this car was running not only on low coolant ,but low oil levels too.
that was some fine diag to watch. from the misfire to the coolant system to the source. i may not understand the lingo most of the time, but following along is a pleasure. 👍🏼
I have been watching your channel for long time now. This one hits close to home. I own a 2014 Jeep Wrangler JK. Since owning my Jeep I have noticed the plethora of issues and opinions on the JK 3.6. I actually ordered my 2014 from the factory it arrived with 7 miles on the odometer I have on the odometer now 344,034miles on it. I drive it a minimum of 104 miles five days a week with an additional 200 to 500 miles more on weekends. From day one or actually the first oil change after the break in oil change it has been 2 quarts low, never worried about it. It's had the Pentastar tick since 25,000 miles, I've also have lived with it. I have replaced the radiator twice, oil cooler 3 times, rear differential gears twice, rear axle once, replaced the clutch once, did the brakes 3 times each time averaging 110k out of the brakes. Replaced the rear main crank seal, transmission input shaft seal. Replaced the ball joints once, all shocks once, steering dampener once, replaced the spark plugs 3 times. Had an overheating problem fixed as well, the heads had to be machined. Replaced the HVAC condenser replaced once. It's also on it's third battery. Also had a wiring issue with a no crank no start situation. And just in the past two weeks replaced the PCV and alternator as well as working on diagnosing a P0430 catalyst code. When I purchased this Jeep I made the decision that I was going to keep it until it dies. With the above list of maintenance items that I have performed does appear to be a lot, but when you look over the mileage 344,034 miles it really is not a lot of issues. Now if it was under 100k miles then yes all these issues would be a problem. So I plan to drive it until the 3.6 decided to end it's life and maybe I will replace it or the frame rots out. But as a daily driver I am not afraid of it leaving me stranded, but we will see what will happen and how long I can keep it alive.
Thank GOD for that CAMERA! You had the misfire showing Number 4, the loss of coolant after the drive. The rise and fall of the coolant in the funnel with the bubbles, and the obvious leak under pressure right in the cylinder, on camera while watching it drip! 4 test steps = 1 problem engine! The details of this testing make this video worth keeping. Thank you. Good one Ivan!
Great video Ivan. You show people the actual cause of the problems and you explain it so that everybody can understand what you are talking about. In regards to your customer replacing her motor. Eric at I do cars seems to be a good source for a used engine.
I had these same symptoms with a 2010 Dodge Nitro.. except no misfires. Turns out, it was just a bad water pump. She's going strong now and no coolant leaks.
We have seen so many blown head gaskets on these 3.6 jeeps that we start with removing thermostat and do a block test. If they complain about overheating
I owned a 99 lumina 3.1 and it too had head gasket issue w exact same symptoms, compression test showed cylinder 5 and upon removal of that rear head I saw no blow in the gasket, gasket looked fine no tears and I figured it morso a warped head, sure enough it was, I didn't check the for warpage I just went my instinct and was rite, I found a used head and installed it and fixed all the compression issues and coolant back to normal, hope that jeep wont cost the owner more than it's worth, most of these are throw away and I think its awsome it held up for 150k miles, great video!
Haven't watched all yet - I will soon; but just repaired this on the same year jeep wrangler @ 80k miles. Customer says overheats and overflows. After shutdown, coolant res would be over full, but once cooled and restarted, bottle would be empty. Brought it in the shop to examine, after idling up to temp -- coolant would be pushed out of engine until overheat. Found driver side head warped, and combustion gases in coolant. We determined that with the engine running, it would slowly build pressure in the cooling system and basically push all the coolant out of the engine. We swapped both heads (only to have one of the new valves break and destroy the block anyway - new long block installed). Customer said another dealer would only fix the issue with an engine swap. I can see why - 20+ hrs of unpaid time to pull the engine and install anew as the valve broke during our testing cycle. And now we know why. After watching whole video - symptoms are the same as our last Jeep Penastar job - fully recommend long block swap with new updated oil cooler/filter assembly, water pump, and thermo. If you've bought the engine from a Jeep dealer - I hope they updated the oil gallery 'plugs' in the block that can work themselves loose and, well, bad things happen. And a couple of "while you're in there": injectors, belt, and alternator (cause if it's 150k old; good insurance and easy to change before you button the top end up). And like you said, once an aluminum engine overheats - it is likely warped - secondly, the customer gets a bit of a warranty on the long block, just in case of early failure (like breaking a valve ), and gets new timing system to boot.
I got a customer that has a journey. He was blowing coolant out. I told him to get a new car. He went to a backyard hack and dropped it off Friday and Sunday dude called and said he did the head gasket. A month later he is calling me it's over heating. I said yeah fella that's why I told ya to replace the engine or replace the car.
I forget the year, but i had a Plymouth in similar state. Except I did the work myself. I had the head flattened (dude used a huge belt sander instead of a mill) and valve seats checked, replaced the head gasket and two months later, I can't see going down the highway from all the steam shooting out. So this time I pulled the entire engine and rebuilt everything including having the block decked and all. Wasn't 6 months later and I was puffing white smoke out the tailpipe - blown head gasket again. I never had issues with cast iron blocks but aluminum, it's better to melt them down and recast the damn things if overheating is suspected. I wish I had you around to tell me about the money I was going to waste. On a plus side, a young kid just starting a family was rear ended in his Plymouth so he bought mine for $200 over scap price and put his engine in it. Cheaper than a new car I guess.
Start with owner neglect, once you hear the Pentastar tick, replace the roller rockers. Keep driving it for a long period it eats the cam. My current Grand Cherokee 3.6L has 220K miles. Replaced rockers and never neglected oil changes.
2 months ago. I finished my grand daughter car. 3.6 was ticking away. When I pulled the valve covers, I said shyt, 😅 Called my local dodge dealership. Them wanted $3500.00 just for parts. I found a dealership in Texas and I bought everything I needed for $2k. Now the car is running smooth.
As a general note. Intake manifold gaskets on liquid cooled intake manifolds will case very similar problems to this. However, I am fairly sure that the 3.6 does not have coolant passages in the intake gasket (from what research I did), and you can see coolant coming from the head gasket during the pressure test at 23:40 in the video. If you do this test in the future on coolant consumption vehicles, it would be nice for us to see the intake valve (while the cooling system is pressurized) so we can see that coolant is not coming from there. Thanks.
the heads are prone to cracking, my friend's jeep just experienced this, he ended up replacing both heads with complete NEW ones,, not remans.. running great once again
Yeah, remember that cadillac you fixed for me? I did the headgasket on it and had the head machined. Head gasket still leaked so I had to replace the engine in the end.
Endoscope with side view is awesome! I just confirmed similar case on my customers car. Leaking head gasket. It was cool to see the exact spot on the head gasket where it was leaking coolant to the cylinder 😀
Enjoyed watching the action in your funnel. While this was certainly a blown head gasket viewers should be aware that certain amount of motion of the coolant and a smaller amount level change occurs when the thermostat opens and allows the water pump to work. The thermostat can cycle several times per minute. So, don't be mislead.
15:13 Frothy is aeration. When the cooling system is not under pressure, coolant pump does not always remain full of coolant. Aeration is the result, which causes a loss of pump efficiency of about 15% and leads to cavitation , which results in coolant boiling within the pump.And the process repeats.
Hook your pressure tester for radiator and start engine. If it builds fast u got a head gasket issue. Quick and dirty. I work on these every day done plenty of heads/ engines. Just did a side job. 2 heads and gaskets for Over heat. Don’t waste your time just putting gaskets on.
warp warp warp, yep, they're warped or have burnt out spots or even cracked. the radiators loved to leak, thermostats stick and water pump gasket/bolts leaking(corrosion), in which the people don't notice and keep driving until it's too late when it quits blowing heat out.
My wife's best friend has a jeep compass latitude and was losing coolant. The first thing I checked was the oil, nothing on the stick. Then I chased down the leaking upper radiator hose and replaced it and had her buy 2 quarts of oil. I told her that she was extremely lucky that hose didn't completely fail in the 3 months that the leak was happening. Then I really let her have it on the oil, after adding 2 quarts it was still half a quart low. She said she thought that as long as there was oil on the stick it was good... I explained to her that oil not only lubricates the engine but it also helps to remove heat, and running the engine with less than half the oil it requires means that all of the oil is always circulating and never gets to sit in the oil pan to get rid of the heat. And when there is no oil in the pan the pump just sucks air. It's a 2014, she owes a lot on it, so much so that upside down doesn't accurately describe the finances. She needs it to last and unless she changes her ways radically it won't. I didn't scan the codes but I'm sure the MIL is on for catalyst efficiency, I didn't find any oil leaks on the engine...
😅😅😅.... your talking to a woman. They don't have the slightest clue about vehicles. They can't even open the hood to check anything. Tells you about how they are raised. They believe a man will do everything for them. While they sit an polish their nails. I taught my daughters and grand daughter to at least have a basic knowledge about cars.
Thanks Ivan. I always learn things from your videos. Was just sitting here thinking of the overall poor reputation of Dodge/Chrysler Minivans. We've reluctantly owned (2) of them, a '96 with the 3.8L Mopar V6 and an '05 with the 3.3L. (Both predcessors to the Pentastar). My experience has been that the base/core powertrains are durable and fine. Our issues have been with most anything/everything attached to those engines.:o) Transmissions, power steering pumps/racks, Rear AC systems, as well as interior buttons/panels and plastics. My guess is that the owner of this Jeep has been, uh, "very casual" with her engine maintenance. Thanks again.
Love these engines, made lots of money fixing lots of them over the years. Oil coolers, Cams, Rockers, Springs, head gaskets, Valve Seats...Can't understand why Jeep is struggling now.
K- seal head gasket sealer about 75% success rate in shop here with leaks on old stuff people can't afford to repair. I saved my own service truck with it. Had bubbles combustion gas in radiator now nothing. Just pour it in and drive it a few days . Worth a try. I put it in all my motors to prevent small leaks on older stuff. Looks like fine copper liquid not rabbit 🐇 crap which clogs heater core.
That was my exact thought. It actually works..I take the thermostat out run it a cpl days then drain and refill and replace the thermostat.. works every time lol
Cool video, from stating the problem, testing, looking for the obvious water intrusion. I hope the lady finds a good used engine to install. Thanks, Ivan. Greetings from Ohio.
your skills are very methodical and well worth the cost of troubleshooting what ever they may be, personally I would never buy a chrysler or jeep product. I am on my 61st car ,thanks
1. Older Jeeps frequently overheat and people swap thermostats, radiators, pumps with no improvement. All I had to do is to attach a vacuum evacuator to cooling system and there were no more "overheatings", ever. The stupid design of cooling system's piping and passages on Jeeps traps air, plugging up the flow. 2. "Frosty" (puss-like) stuff is a oil whipped with water. This is usually sign of a blown head gasket.
Once owned an LHS which developed a small external coolant leak on its aluminum block engine . Lucky it happened in the wintertime and with no long trips involved, a new head gasket was the only fix needed.
"The owner says it's been getting worse for 2 years" I mean normally I would never say anything good about a pentastar jeep or any jeep for that matter but if you can drive on a blown head gasket for 2 years... wow
I know, right, two years putting up with it, lol. I'm 77 now, but remember back to the '60s when Dad was, don't laugh, psychiatrist for a large rural region, two counties, in Canada. Long holiday weekend -- phone would ring at home for Dad. Babbling voice other end. Dad : "And you've been feeling this way for how long? Seven months? But today, Sunday on a long weekend, you call my home phone to tell me? Call my office on Tuesday. If you stood it for seven months, two more days should be easy!" Kerthunk. Phone hung up, back to hamburger cookout. There are limits in toleration of stupidity even for caregivers. Ivan gets the people at their witz end, and to them -- they NEED their definitive ANSWER RIGHT NOW, G*dd*m it! Well, maybe not this owner, but in general.
Ivan you need to buy a CO2 Tester for the cooling System! Its really cheap and extremely quick in telling if there are exhaust gases in the coolant lines.
The white color coolant splash marks is a dead give away that someone has put the dreaded Blue Devil in the system. even if you replace the engine you would have to try and get that stuff out of the radiator and heater core. I have seen Cats clogged after engine changes that had it in system with a bad leak like this one. Once you contaminate the system with cover up in a bottle you are done. I've seen way to many times that it covers a leak for a time then fails big in the end. Makes an engine change a lot harder. Thanks for sharing.
When I was 16-17 I had a 4.0 Liter 1995 Jeep Cherokee. I did a lot of preventative maintenance, one task of which was replacing the raditor cap. All of a sudden randomly I would be boiling coolant out of the reservoir. Couldn't figure out why. Replaced the radiator cap a few more times. Finally figure out via the Junkyard that the OEM radiator cap was rated at 16 PSI, however AutoZone kept listing 13 PSI! 3 PSI made all of the difference apparently, and I never had another issue once I swapped the radiator cap back out for a factory rated 16 PSI.
Was the shop aware of the overheating , coolant loss and miss BEFORE the cam was replaced ? If so , WHY proceed without a complete diagnosis ? The cylinders are accessible and a bore scope is not that expensive . You would think most repair shops would have one . But that new cam and rockers sure sound great ! 😂
A cheaper way to (labor wise) determine a blown head gasket would be to use a radiator test kit that uses blue liquid that turns green if exhaust gasses are passing into the cooling system.
Been there done that, those aren't reliable. The good thing is they won't give you a false positive, but especially on smaller leaks, false negatives are a good possibility. A better method is to pressurize the suspect cylinder(s) with compressed air for a few minutes at the highest pressure you can and watch for bubbling or a rise in the coolant level. False negatives are still a possibility with tiny leaks though, compressed air at 100-150 PSI is still many times less than combustion pressure.
Just did 2 exhaust cams on a '16 w/ 123k miles. 1 owner and maintained. One cam looked about like that. The roller was totally seized & not rolling/: pos
You could’ve diagnosed this in 5min with a combustion leak detector. They wanted a full diagnosis that’s what you gave them. I’m just saying once emissions are detectable it the cooling system…..
I love your channel. Long time subscriber, first time caller. Don't they make a test kit to check if combustion gases are present in the coolant? I am assuming if the whitish foam is oil, you would also have gases as well? Or... are there other ways for oil to get into the coolant? I own a Jeep, could you please move into the house next door to me?? Again, I love Pine Hallow Diagnostics.....I would watch you change a tire on a bicycle!! Keep them coming!!!
be careful that close to the funnel and radiator when under pressure and an combustion leak. late 1990's I had sealer stick shut a radiator cap and it blew the top composite radiator tank off. I took a scalding hot antifreeze shower as did the whole front of garage, it hit the 9 foot high ceiling and was raining back down for 20 minutes. luckily my glasses kept it out my eyes(mostly), had it up my nose, in my mouth that was open(talking). yeehaw! plymouth voyager minivan, 2.6L mitsubishi engine. blown gasket into water passage, it corroded from the water passage over to the sealing ring , head was flat, block had a low spot from years of it leaking and corroding. I guess someone swapped the head and gasket previously, but never noticed the block issue.
The answer is nearly all the debris has run through the pump. But this engine was doomed before the cam issue if Ivan's timeline is accurate on when the cooling system problems started, this is the end of the head gasket failure, he said over the last 2 years she's replaced cooling system components so I can only assume the head gasket has been an issue since well before the tick.
The oil filter captures 99% The remaining 1% gets caught on the cam position sensors on the back of each cam. I should know. I saw all 4 cams magnets had caught a lot of the shavings.
Enjoy your evening with all your family around you ,Ivan,Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics Can't wait for the next video 👍 SHREWD,Ivan,Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 15:05 Good Afternoon
I had a 4.0 liter, one problem: cracked exhaust manifold and the radiator leaked. Had a 3.8, total junk, head gasket and spun bearings. Had a 3.6 avoided the dropped valve but I had all sorts of sand in the cooling and the oil cooler leaked. Next Jeep will be a jk old enough to put a 2.8 Cummins in.
Based on the symptoms presented, I would have gone straight to the bore scope, or leak down on cylinder 4. Of course, you did have fun driving the rig around I guess.
I love the country differences. In my country, even a used engine + whatever cost you have swapping it out, your cost will be around 80% of the total value of the car, and that is if you are lucky. You could easily end up far beyond the cars value. So in this case it would either be a new gasket or a new car. So the value of the car would be the determining factor whether to try a new gasket or not.
I think a good used Pentastar engine is a misnomer. Good Luck!
Good video as always. But tonight I'm so happy -- by following your methodical examples, I just repaired my own vehicle (Honda Odyssey) WITHOUT firing the parts cannon first!!! I studied the schematics, did some tests on the various solenoids and oil pressure sensor (this is for P2646 which I know you fixed in another video), read the solenoid commands and oil pressure values via the TopScan, and determined the oil pressure sender was messed up. Fixed that one part, and voila! I now have no Check Engine light, and I restored the Cruise Control and VSA.
We just got rid of our daughters 2012 K with the 3.6. Worst Jeep we've ever owned. Both heads had to be replaced, one under warranty, the other not. That thing consumed 2 qts of oil every 5000k, dealership said that's considered normal! Multiple thermostats replaced, fuel pump, axle seals, ball joints, misfire codes, the list goes on and all she did was drive to school and work, never off roaded! Glad to be rid of it!!
Wow!!! people love their Jeeps but not 3.6 💩
I had one leak so bad on cylinder #3 it would hydrolock the engine and blow the starter. I drained almost a gallon of antifreeze out of the oil pan drain. The customer had very little money so I offered a sealant (Blue Devil) and they said to go ahead. That's been almost 2 years ago and has had no issues. I don't like to do that but it was the only option that I could offer. Thanks!
I hope the owner is doing this till she finds a engine. This is the best temp Fix that most of the time out last the cars if it in the northeast with the salt.
I had good success with Blue Devil also.
@@richardpope9985 They drove it up until it was traded last month for a Honda Odyssey. The water pump did fail from them overheating it so many times before the Blue Devil.
AH, a genuine Penta engine, it runs on 5 cylinders.
That was an excellent demonstration or how to diagnose the cooling system issue which is actually a symptom of an engine problem.
And then the bit at the end being able to show how the leak actually takes place inside an engine.
That cylinder is probably part of the oil consumption, as the coolant has no doubt led to bore and piston damage.
A coolant leak into the combustion chamber does not show up in the oil as the stuff goes out the exhaust.
When the coolant can get past the head gasket into the oil return galleys it does create the crankcase milkshake.
If CO2 and CO are coming out of the radiator it also confirms a combustion leak.
Pretty obvious diagnostic, Ivan! And that whitish foam in the coolant cap, is engine oil seeping into the coolant. Definitely a blown gasket, probably because the head is warped and doesn't seat properly.
Remember years back I had two jeepster's with the Buick 225 V-6's I plowed snow ,hauled trailers of firewood in rough country plus drove 50 miles a day to & from work, they never let me down.
Haven’t watched yet, but working at a CDJR dealer here’s what I think: recently (in the last year) OEM thermostats were on back order, many shops installed motorad or Murray thermostats. We saw at least a dozen come back within months stuck closed. This overheated several engines to the point of head gasket failure. You are correct, the old 3.6 isn’t known for head gasket issues, but we certainly saw several after that thermostat debacle! (The newer 3.6 “upgrade” engines, however, are starting to show a pattern of head gasket failure around 100k miles)
Interesting...thanks
It's so sad that you can't even trust something as simple as an aftermarket thermostat
We had a run of 5.0L Fords running hot with the fans on constantly, but not overheating. They all had Motorad thermostats in them. Pathetic.
Chrysler never should have quit making the 4.0 litre straight six. A bullet proof motor!
I love when I can get a bore scope in there with the system pressurized and can visually watch the leak, super satisfying making the call at that point. If you ever have a ford 1.5 coolant loss and misfire come in the shop just immediately go to this method and you’ll see the leak lol and unfortunately for those it’s either a head or block casting issue so it’s a long block recommendation every time
Well penstar engines are junk. Big time, they eat coolant, head gaskets if you don't take care of them. But very good video! Great diagnosis!! Good job Ivan!
That was a great video! Never saw a headgasket leak revealed in real time like that.
This is my favourite tech channel.
I'm a semi-retired one.
Great vids
They're both great individually and together, they've worked together too, not to mention beating out ScannerDanner . SD got a bit jaded for my liking.
@@davidstleon8388 I also watch it. Eric is amazing. It's a difficult hair to split. Ivan for me is a bit more entertaining and enthusiastic.
Enthusiasm is something I lost some time ago
Ivan the Cerebral I enjoy, but not in every case. Diagnostics to prove a blown muffler? Well Ivan's your man! He'll nail it down solid 50 ways to Sunday. No disrespect whatsoever, but sometimes the glaringly obvious is the galaringly obvious. And of course when it looks obvious but isn't, Ivan's the man.
SMA? Well there's your bedrock guy. Great at diagnostics, artisan with a torch, tough guy growly voice, softie with wife and pets -- you know you'll get the straight goods from that guy. And has a continuous sound track accompaniment from lawnmower man and that guy and locomotives.
@@mistsmogguru8378 Ivan tends to drag out videos. A $40.00 dollar exhaust gas in coolant test kit, 15 min and your done.
The worse thing is that there wasn't much oil in the engine. With all that coolant mixing with the oil when the car is parked , the milkshake mixture should have been much higher on the dipstick. I think this car was running not only on low coolant ,but low oil levels too.
that was some fine diag to watch. from the misfire to the coolant system to the source. i may not understand the lingo most of the time, but following along is a pleasure. 👍🏼
I have been watching your channel for long time now. This one hits close to home. I own a 2014 Jeep Wrangler JK. Since owning my Jeep I have noticed the plethora of issues and opinions on the JK 3.6. I actually ordered my 2014 from the factory it arrived with 7 miles on the odometer I have on the odometer now 344,034miles on it. I drive it a minimum of 104 miles five days a week with an additional 200 to 500 miles more on weekends.
From day one or actually the first oil change after the break in oil change it has been 2 quarts low, never worried about it. It's had the Pentastar tick since 25,000 miles, I've also have lived with it. I have replaced the radiator twice, oil cooler 3 times, rear differential gears twice, rear axle once, replaced the clutch once, did the brakes 3 times each time averaging 110k out of the brakes. Replaced the rear main crank seal, transmission input shaft seal. Replaced the ball joints once, all shocks once, steering dampener once, replaced the spark plugs 3 times. Had an overheating problem fixed as well, the heads had to be machined. Replaced the HVAC condenser replaced once. It's also on it's third battery. Also had a wiring issue with a no crank no start situation. And just in the past two weeks replaced the PCV and alternator as well as working on diagnosing a P0430 catalyst code.
When I purchased this Jeep I made the decision that I was going to keep it until it dies. With the above list of maintenance items that I have performed does appear to be a lot, but when you look over the mileage 344,034 miles it really is not a lot of issues. Now if it was under 100k miles then yes all these issues would be a problem. So I plan to drive it until the 3.6 decided to end it's life and maybe I will replace it or the frame rots out.
But as a daily driver I am not afraid of it leaving me stranded, but we will see what will happen and how long I can keep it alive.
ive owned 2 jeeps- what i have learned- if you aint got anything to do, you can always work on your jeep.
Thank GOD for that CAMERA! You had the misfire showing Number 4, the loss of coolant after the drive. The rise and fall of the coolant in the funnel with the bubbles, and the obvious leak under pressure right in the cylinder, on camera while watching it drip! 4 test steps = 1 problem engine!
The details of this testing make this video worth keeping. Thank you.
Good one Ivan!
Great video Ivan. You show people the actual cause of the problems and you explain it so that everybody can understand what you are talking about. In regards to your customer replacing her motor. Eric at I do cars seems to be a good source for a used engine.
I had a CJ-8 Scrambler in the day. Great, fun, and pretty reliable. My, how far they've fallen.
I had these same symptoms with a 2010 Dodge Nitro.. except no misfires. Turns out, it was just a bad water pump. She's going strong now and no coolant leaks.
That was a great confirmation seeing the leak in the cyclinder. No doubt about what's causing the issues.
Block test fluid would have diagnosed this quite quickly. Great video though and good to see the boroscope shots!
I was curious why he did not go with the block test fluid.
We have seen so many blown head gaskets on these 3.6 jeeps that we start with removing thermostat and do a block test. If they complain about overheating
I owned a 99 lumina 3.1 and it too had head gasket issue w exact same symptoms, compression test showed cylinder 5 and upon removal of that rear head I saw no blow in the gasket, gasket looked fine no tears and I figured it morso a warped head, sure enough it was, I didn't check the for warpage I just went my instinct and was rite, I found a used head and installed it and fixed all the compression issues and coolant back to normal, hope that jeep wont cost the owner more than it's worth, most of these are throw away and I think its awsome it held up for 150k miles, great video!
Haven't watched all yet - I will soon; but just repaired this on the same year jeep wrangler @ 80k miles. Customer says overheats and overflows. After shutdown, coolant res would be over full, but once cooled and restarted, bottle would be empty. Brought it in the shop to examine, after idling up to temp -- coolant would be pushed out of engine until overheat. Found driver side head warped, and combustion gases in coolant. We determined that with the engine running, it would slowly build pressure in the cooling system and basically push all the coolant out of the engine. We swapped both heads (only to have one of the new valves break and destroy the block anyway - new long block installed).
Customer said another dealer would only fix the issue with an engine swap. I can see why - 20+ hrs of unpaid time to pull the engine and install anew as the valve broke during our testing cycle. And now we know why.
After watching whole video - symptoms are the same as our last Jeep Penastar job - fully recommend long block swap with new updated oil cooler/filter assembly, water pump, and thermo. If you've bought the engine from a Jeep dealer - I hope they updated the oil gallery 'plugs' in the block that can work themselves loose and, well, bad things happen. And a couple of "while you're in there": injectors, belt, and alternator (cause if it's 150k old; good insurance and easy to change before you button the top end up). And like you said, once an aluminum engine overheats - it is likely warped - secondly, the customer gets a bit of a warranty on the long block, just in case of early failure (like breaking a valve ), and gets new timing system to boot.
Beautiful capture of gasket leaking ..
Awesome in cylinder capture. Thanks Ivan!
I got a customer that has a journey. He was blowing coolant out. I told him to get a new car. He went to a backyard hack and dropped it off Friday and Sunday dude called and said he did the head gasket. A month later he is calling me it's over heating. I said yeah fella that's why I told ya to replace the engine or replace the car.
I forget the year, but i had a Plymouth in similar state. Except I did the work myself. I had the head flattened (dude used a huge belt sander instead of a mill) and valve seats checked, replaced the head gasket and two months later, I can't see going down the highway from all the steam shooting out. So this time I pulled the entire engine and rebuilt everything including having the block decked and all. Wasn't 6 months later and I was puffing white smoke out the tailpipe - blown head gasket again. I never had issues with cast iron blocks but aluminum, it's better to melt them down and recast the damn things if overheating is suspected.
I wish I had you around to tell me about the money I was going to waste. On a plus side, a young kid just starting a family was rear ended in his Plymouth so he bought mine for $200 over scap price and put his engine in it. Cheaper than a new car I guess.
Start with owner neglect, once you hear the Pentastar tick, replace the roller rockers. Keep driving it for a long period it eats the cam. My current Grand Cherokee 3.6L has 220K miles. Replaced rockers and never neglected oil changes.
2 months ago. I finished my grand daughter car. 3.6 was ticking away.
When I pulled the valve covers, I said shyt, 😅
Called my local dodge dealership. Them wanted $3500.00 just for parts.
I found a dealership in Texas and I bought everything I needed for $2k.
Now the car is running smooth.
As a general note. Intake manifold gaskets on liquid cooled intake manifolds will case very similar problems to this. However, I am fairly sure that the 3.6 does not have coolant passages in the intake gasket (from what research I did), and you can see coolant coming from the head gasket during the pressure test at 23:40 in the video. If you do this test in the future on coolant consumption vehicles, it would be nice for us to see the intake valve (while the cooling system is pressurized) so we can see that coolant is not coming from there. Thanks.
the heads are prone to cracking, my friend's jeep just experienced this, he ended up replacing both heads with complete NEW ones,, not remans.. running great once again
It's always a great day when I can start it off with PHAD video, Thanks Ivan!
It isn't just the heads that need re-torque after the cam repair? if not, quite a shop that puts a new cam in but ignores a head leak ..
Yeah, remember that cadillac you fixed for me? I did the headgasket on it and had the head machined. Head gasket still leaked so I had to replace the engine in the end.
Thanks Ivan for this great job and the ickle Triumph GT6 too 🤩👍👍👍
Endoscope with side view is awesome! I just confirmed similar case on my customers car. Leaking head gasket. It was cool to see the exact spot on the head gasket where it was leaking coolant to the cylinder 😀
Why not check the coolant for combustion gases?
Enjoyed watching the action in your funnel. While this was certainly a blown head gasket viewers should be aware that certain amount of motion of the coolant and a smaller amount level change occurs when the thermostat opens and allows the water pump to work. The thermostat can cycle several times per minute. So, don't be mislead.
15:13 Frothy is aeration. When the cooling system is not under pressure, coolant pump does not always remain full of coolant. Aeration is the result, which causes a loss of pump efficiency of about 15% and leads to cavitation , which results in coolant boiling within the pump.And the process repeats.
Big clue is the different heat range plugs you pulled!! Great diag as always 👍
Hook your pressure tester for radiator and start engine. If it builds fast u got a head gasket issue. Quick and dirty. I work on these every day done plenty of heads/ engines. Just did a side job. 2 heads and gaskets for
Over heat. Don’t waste your time just putting gaskets on.
warp warp warp, yep, they're warped or have burnt out spots or even cracked. the radiators loved to leak, thermostats stick and water pump gasket/bolts leaking(corrosion), in which the people don't notice and keep driving until it's too late when it quits blowing heat out.
That is a laugh a good used Penastar engine ,they came off the assembly line faulty.🤣Cheers Ivan.
We had a bad casting on the driver's side cylinder head on our 2015 Grand Cherokee. Required a new cylinder head under warranty.
My wifes 2012 pentastar powered grand cherokee had the exact same problem. You’d think the problem could be worked out much sooner than 3 years.
Very common on that engine. So common, in fact, that the oem left head gasket is waaaay cheaper than the right gasket.
My wife's best friend has a jeep compass latitude and was losing coolant. The first thing I checked was the oil, nothing on the stick. Then I chased down the leaking upper radiator hose and replaced it and had her buy 2 quarts of oil. I told her that she was extremely lucky that hose didn't completely fail in the 3 months that the leak was happening. Then I really let her have it on the oil, after adding 2 quarts it was still half a quart low. She said she thought that as long as there was oil on the stick it was good... I explained to her that oil not only lubricates the engine but it also helps to remove heat, and running the engine with less than half the oil it requires means that all of the oil is always circulating and never gets to sit in the oil pan to get rid of the heat. And when there is no oil in the pan the pump just sucks air. It's a 2014, she owes a lot on it, so much so that upside down doesn't accurately describe the finances. She needs it to last and unless she changes her ways radically it won't. I didn't scan the codes but I'm sure the MIL is on for catalyst efficiency, I didn't find any oil leaks on the engine...
😅😅😅.... your talking to a woman. They don't have the slightest clue about vehicles.
They can't even open the hood to check anything.
Tells you about how they are raised.
They believe a man will do everything for them. While they sit an polish their nails.
I taught my daughters and grand daughter to at least have a basic knowledge about cars.
The only true Jeep engine is the 4.0 inline 6
bullet proof
Your right! The 4.0 was strong and long lasting!
Facts
340,000 on mine, since brand new in '97
Flat head 4 cyl. Slow but indestructible.
Thanks Ivan. I always learn things from your videos. Was just sitting here thinking of the overall poor reputation of Dodge/Chrysler Minivans. We've reluctantly owned (2) of them, a '96 with the 3.8L Mopar V6 and an '05 with the 3.3L. (Both predcessors to the Pentastar). My experience has been that the base/core powertrains are durable and fine. Our issues have been with most anything/everything attached to those engines.:o)
Transmissions, power steering pumps/racks, Rear AC systems, as well as interior buttons/panels and plastics.
My guess is that the owner of this Jeep has been, uh, "very casual" with her engine maintenance. Thanks again.
Why not just do a compression gas test with the blue liquid to see if color changes?? Very easy test, and fast.
Bonus footage
PHAD rebuilds the motor
👍 for the win
Love these engines, made lots of money fixing lots of them over the years. Oil coolers, Cams, Rockers, Springs, head gaskets, Valve Seats...Can't understand why Jeep is struggling now.
Great quick one Ivan ..you yet come thru with amazing methodological approach!!!
Yep! That's a blown headgasket or you can throw me out! Good diagnosis Ivan!
Very thorough as usual Ivan...good job
K- seal head gasket sealer about 75% success rate in shop here with leaks on old stuff people can't afford to repair.
I saved my own service truck with it.
Had bubbles combustion gas in radiator now nothing.
Just pour it in and drive it a few days .
Worth a try.
I put it in all my motors to prevent small leaks on older stuff.
Looks like fine copper liquid not rabbit 🐇 crap which clogs heater core.
That was my exact thought. It actually works..I take the thermostat out run it a cpl days then drain and refill and replace the thermostat.. works every time lol
Irontite is an amazing product as well. Haven't used it in years but works great as a temp (semi permanent) fix for those low on dough
Yep, probably get another year out of it. Or take it to carmax.
@@rickybobby7326: Leave the stuff in there.
AGREE 100% 👍
Cool video, from stating the problem, testing, looking for the obvious water intrusion. I hope the lady finds a good used engine to install. Thanks, Ivan. Greetings from Ohio.
I guess just modify the hood and run it with the spill free funnel. 🤣🤣
I bet someone in the world, has done that in the past, haha.
Driving round with a water tank, feeding the system
Ivan, the borescope is a great diagnostic tool. Seeing is believing!
Hope you can get it fixed soon my good friend
your skills are very methodical and well worth the cost of troubleshooting what ever they may be, personally I would never buy a chrysler or jeep product. I am on my 61st car ,thanks
1. Older Jeeps frequently overheat and people swap thermostats, radiators, pumps with no improvement. All I had to do is to attach a vacuum evacuator to cooling system and there were no more "overheatings", ever. The stupid design of cooling system's piping and passages on Jeeps traps air, plugging up the flow.
2. "Frosty" (puss-like) stuff is a oil whipped with water. This is usually sign of a blown head gasket.
3.6 and 5.7 have bleed ports. 5.7, remove a plug as you fill. 3.6 unscrew a plastic screw as you fill.
great video Ivan simple informative and back to the basics on identifying a blown head gasket with quite a few different methods
That. Scope. So. Important. To. Prove. Inner. Damage. I could. Watch. Your. Videos. So interesting. Thanks ❤❤❤❤❤
Once owned an LHS which developed a small external coolant leak on its aluminum block engine . Lucky it happened in the wintertime and with no long trips involved, a new head gasket was the only fix needed.
Commonnnn, you are a scope guy, this a good one for pressure differential test on radiator. Project farm need this for block seal shootout.😂
Another great video Ivan. Is there a way to guarantee a motor has low mileage?
"The owner says it's been getting worse for 2 years"
I mean normally I would never say anything good about a pentastar jeep or any jeep for that matter but if you can drive on a blown head gasket for 2 years... wow
I know, right, two years putting up with it, lol. I'm 77 now, but remember back to the '60s when Dad was, don't laugh, psychiatrist for a large rural region, two counties, in Canada.
Long holiday weekend -- phone would ring at home for Dad. Babbling voice other end. Dad : "And you've been feeling this way for how long? Seven months? But today, Sunday on a long weekend, you call my home phone to tell me? Call my office on Tuesday. If you stood it for seven months, two more days should be easy!" Kerthunk. Phone hung up, back to hamburger cookout.
There are limits in toleration of stupidity even for caregivers. Ivan gets the people at their witz end, and to them -- they NEED their definitive ANSWER RIGHT NOW, G*dd*m it!
Well, maybe not this owner, but in general.
catalytic converter is 99% shot from coolant
I would definitely NOT put another Pentastar back in it.. Now it's ready for an LS.. cheap power and more reliable
A block test and that would have been a 5 min video. Nice to be inside #4 and see it drip.
Ivan you need to buy a CO2 Tester for the cooling System!
Its really cheap and extremely quick in telling if there are exhaust gases in the coolant lines.
Or using a block tester, which is even faster, simpler, cheaper and can virtually get from any automotive based store.
The white color coolant splash marks is a dead give away that someone has put the dreaded Blue Devil in the system. even if you replace the engine you would have to try and get that stuff out of the radiator and heater core. I have seen Cats clogged after engine changes that had it in system with a bad leak like this one. Once you contaminate the system with cover up in a bottle you are done. I've seen way to many times that it covers a leak for a time then fails big in the end. Makes an engine change a lot harder. Thanks for sharing.
When I was 16-17 I had a 4.0 Liter 1995 Jeep Cherokee. I did a lot of preventative maintenance, one task of which was replacing the raditor cap. All of a sudden randomly I would be boiling coolant out of the reservoir. Couldn't figure out why. Replaced the radiator cap a few more times. Finally figure out via the Junkyard that the OEM radiator cap was rated at 16 PSI, however AutoZone kept listing 13 PSI! 3 PSI made all of the difference apparently, and I never had another issue once I swapped the radiator cap back out for a factory rated 16 PSI.
Was the shop aware of the overheating , coolant loss and miss BEFORE the cam was replaced ? If so , WHY proceed without a complete diagnosis ? The cylinders are accessible and a bore scope is not that expensive . You would think most repair shops would have one . But that new cam and rockers sure sound great ! 😂
A cheaper way to (labor wise) determine a blown head gasket would be to use a radiator test kit that uses blue liquid that turns green if exhaust gasses are passing into the cooling system.
Been there done that, those aren't reliable. The good thing is they won't give you a false positive, but especially on smaller leaks, false negatives are a good possibility. A better method is to pressurize the suspect cylinder(s) with compressed air for a few minutes at the highest pressure you can and watch for bubbling or a rise in the coolant level. False negatives are still a possibility with tiny leaks though, compressed air at 100-150 PSI is still many times less than combustion pressure.
Just did 2 exhaust cams on a '16 w/ 123k miles. 1 owner and maintained. One cam looked about like that. The roller was totally seized & not rolling/: pos
You could’ve diagnosed this in 5min with a combustion leak detector. They wanted a full diagnosis that’s what you gave them. I’m just saying once emissions are detectable it the cooling system…..
Interesting capture of bubbling radiator. The borescope should confirm symptom.
That’s a great 👍🏼 video / training class !
Thanks for sharing your excellent skill !!
I so look forward to your vids. Keep 'em coming.
Good through job bud..You are good at what you do..
I love your channel. Long time subscriber, first time caller.
Don't they make a test kit to check if combustion gases are present in the coolant?
I am assuming if the whitish foam is oil, you would also have gases as well?
Or... are there other ways for oil to get into the coolant?
I own a Jeep, could you please move into the house next door to me??
Again, I love Pine Hallow Diagnostics.....I would watch you change a tire on a bicycle!!
Keep them coming!!!
We had one pull the head bolts out of the block. Great design lol
be careful that close to the funnel and radiator when under pressure and an combustion leak. late 1990's I had sealer stick shut a radiator cap and it blew the top composite radiator tank off.
I took a scalding hot antifreeze shower as did the whole front of garage, it hit the 9 foot high ceiling and was raining back down for 20 minutes. luckily my glasses kept it out my eyes(mostly), had it up my nose, in my mouth that was open(talking). yeehaw! plymouth voyager minivan, 2.6L mitsubishi engine. blown gasket into water passage, it corroded from the water passage over to the sealing ring , head was flat, block had a low spot from years of it leaking and corroding. I guess someone swapped the head and gasket previously, but never noticed the block issue.
Big Ivan! Shhh my favorite UA-cam channel ❤ I can’t wait to see your videos Brotha!
I wonder how much of the cam lobe shavings ended up doing damage to the oil pump and/or bearings 😬
The answer is nearly all the debris has run through the pump. But this engine was doomed before the cam issue if Ivan's timeline is accurate on when the cooling system problems started, this is the end of the head gasket failure, he said over the last 2 years she's replaced cooling system components so I can only assume the head gasket has been an issue since well before the tick.
The oil filter captures 99%
The remaining 1% gets caught on the cam position sensors on the back of each cam.
I should know. I saw all 4 cams magnets had caught a lot of the shavings.
Would of loved to see a pulse sensor capture or RC test just to see how prevalent it was lol I’m just a scope junkie tho
Love that borescope Cool.
Another good one. Thanks Ivan. God bless
Enjoy your evening with all your family around you ,Ivan,Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics
Can't wait for the next video
👍
SHREWD,Ivan,Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 15:05 Good Afternoon
Wow that was fascinating. Great video!
Another great diag Ivan. My only question is why was there no steam coming out the tailpipe?
Great diagnoses Ivan , what the difference in cost between a good engine replacement vs new head gasket?
I had a 4.0 liter, one problem: cracked exhaust manifold and the radiator leaked. Had a 3.8, total junk, head gasket and spun bearings. Had a 3.6 avoided the dropped valve but I had all sorts of sand in the cooling and the oil cooler leaked. Next Jeep will be a jk old enough to put a 2.8 Cummins in.
pretty cool thanks for sharing
If you suspect a blown head gasket wouldn't a test drive be a big mictake .
I think that because the solution was a new motor, it didn’t really matter.
Based on the symptoms presented, I would have gone straight to the bore scope, or leak down on cylinder 4. Of course, you did have fun driving the rig around I guess.
Gosh those pentastars have so many problems. I’m so glad I have a GM 3.6 oh wait…..
Very nice diagnostic,I think somebody add some JB brothers radiator stop leaks...
Nice video Ivan.
I love the country differences. In my country, even a used engine + whatever cost you have swapping it out, your cost will be around 80% of the total value of the car, and that is if you are lucky. You could easily end up far beyond the cars value. So in this case it would either be a new gasket or a new car. So the value of the car would be the determining factor whether to try a new gasket or not.
Absolutely awesome and enjoyable video.