Concrete Bag | Culvert Retaining Wall | Wing Wall | How To Build | Steve Addis
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- How I built a solid well-made concrete bag culvert entrance using 650 50lb bags, 1/2 rebar, threaded rod, 8oz fabric, mortar. Due to backlogged contractors, I decided to do this myself. End of video shows the drive nearly washing out. The next heavy rain I will update you with a video. Thank you for watching! :)
Thank You for your interest in my video!
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Improvements & Methods - Concrete Bag | Culvert Retaining Wall
• Improvements & Methods...
Basalt Rebar, Dip Galvanized Hardware, Mortared Seams, Color, Sealer. (Recommended by Viewers.) Thank you!
650 Bags at $1.83 a bag ($1,190 + Taxes & Rebar)(Currently $3.04/bag QTY 70 at Lowe's.)
(This was with discounts.) - Buy Quikrete High Strength at Lowe's by the pallet to save cost. (Prices will vary.) This was less cost than making forms and doing a concrete pour. They do make a version for this purpose called Rip Rap. See below. **
Tip: I used the lines on the bag, to setback the upper bags and keep courses running even. Sight each course from side and top, to form the shape you desire. Also, loosen up each bag by placing the long ends on a flat surface to move the concrete to the front edge of the bag without the opening. Mix the bag if you feel stone. Then flatten the bag, pick it up and place it in position. The opening of the bag always goes to the back so you end up with a more smooth uniform look. Do one row, then adjust, then pack with a flat block of stone.
Important: I saturated the concrete bags well with plenty of water over night or more. Keep the bags damp for as long as possible to promote the curing process. Build small sections leaving the rebar exposed to bridge the next set of rebar and cover with plastic to protect from rain. Finally, lightly soak bags as many days as possible. Make sure you are using paper bags.
Tip: I pressure washed the paper away on a low setting. Pack any voids with concrete using a small piece of rebar.
Tip: I coated the lower sections with concrete in a near liquid form. Wash concrete and water into any cracks or voids on bag surfaces. Wipe excess with a wet cloth.
Tip: I mortared any voids and the top to prevent water penetration. Pack concrete in the voids with the end of a stick of rebar. Color and seal to provide good cover for the rebar.
Tip: Tape the top bags with packing tape to prevent bag stretching and cracks.
Tip: I checked with utility providers to have all underground cables and pipes marked before installing this culvert and wing wall. - Have fun. :)
After One Year - How is it holding?
• One Year Later | Concr...
Concrete Bag Retaining Wall | How I Built
• Concrete Bag Retaining...
Culvert & French Drain Performing As Needed
• Culvert & French Drain...
French Drain 130' | Deep 4' Subsurface | River Rock
• French Drain 130' x 4'...
What Is Concrete - See Testing- Actually Dams Use Compressed Rolled Concrete
• What is Concrete?
This Culvert Model Demonstrates Types Of Entrances***
Our entrance was near capacity and the exit was about 70 percent flow.
• What Is a Culvert?
** Quikrete Rip Rap - Commercial grade blend of Portland cement and specially graded sand, packaged in a Fiber Reinforced, Biodegradable Bag for erosion control applications.
www.quikrete.c...
My Website Where I Will Post More Details
www.stevenaddi...
Note: A couple of YT comments talked about rebar and "cover" protection and rust prevention . If this is of concern, there is Basalt and Fiberglas rebar. Fiberglass may fracture with a hammer. I tried to have three inches of cover, setting the rebar back from the face. The joints are mortared and sealed. This may not be the best method and easiest method to build a wing wall compared to formed. It was less expensive and it has held up perfectly for ten months showing no signs of degradation and is working for my particular stream conditions. Thank you.
Disclaimer: Please note: I am not giving engineering or construction advice since each and every site and location is different. This is just a demonstration of what I did and what worked for my location and my particular project. Please seek advice from a contractor and engineer to protect your time and investment in materials. I talked with Tom the engineer who has 50+ years of construction experience before I proceeded. All documentation and videos on this website are for informational purposes only. I am not liable for any use or misuse of this information by any person and any claims of any kind such as loss or injury. Warning: The tools and equipment presented in this video can be dangerous. Use all necessary safety protections at all times.
#CulvertRetainingWall
#ConcreteBagWall
#QUIKRETE
#SteveAddis
Please Subscribe if this was useful. Thank you! :) - The video description above contains more details that may help you. - 650 50lb Bags at $1.83 a bag ($1,190 + Taxes & Rebar)(Pallet, 10% discount.) (Regular $2.68 7-20-21). - Improvements in description. Basalt rebar. Buy Quikrete High Strength at Lowe's by the pallet and save cost. Less cost than making forms and doing a concrete pour. ** Made Specifically For This - QUIKRETE RIP RAP - Commercial grade blend of Portland cement and specially graded sand, packaged in a Fiber Reinforced, Biodegradable Bag for erosion control applications.
www.quikrete.com/productlines/riprap.asp
Also, FiberGlass rebar is available for similar prices.
Thanks so much! This is exactly what I need!
@@JosephDR Glad it helped. I found these after the fact. Post what you do with them and how they worked please. :)
The normal Quikrete concrete mix can be used for rip rap and erosion control
kingquarry.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/SPEC_DATA-ConcreteMix.pdf
Don't forget the most important part... Slap it with your hand and say "That ain't goin' nowhere"
Thanks Walt, You are right. Not going anywhere. Yet some are making comments it is failing. Been there nearly a year September and no changes. I can hit the face of the wall with a hammer and it will not chip. Lol
@@SteveAddis ignore the haters I've built several like that and 30 year later, they still there
@@SteveAddisit lasted a whole year! 😂
@@TOAD7464your screen name is fitting "TOAD"....
I tried that with my ex wife. Just kidding
Pretty cool. Been a mason 50 yrs and never seen this. Good job Sir.
Hi Bustin. I will share this with you if you do not mind. My Uncle (Retired) and Cousins are all masons. Grandpa was construction. I am DIY - only to solve issues so this would not pass as the method they would use, but I know it would bring a smile to Grandpa if he were here. This was not planned on paper, and is my first concrete project. The design just came together. Yet I asked Tom the retired engineer contractor how to proceed with dealing with the pipe and connections. Tom's old farm had similar walls. Glad to get a comment from your field of work. Take care! :)
Hey dude, you should always show "the after" when you show your "the before" from the same angle it helps highlight the awesome job you just completed. Keep up the great work and thanks for posting
You are right. This is the only comparison video so far. More to follow next BIG rain. Thanks for watching! ua-cam.com/video/vKC2TxNWrLk/v-deo.html
@@SteveAddis definitely looking forward to seeing it swallow up some heavy rain
That’s crazy amount of water good job brotha 🤜🏽
Quite a bit for sure. - Thanks
I’m exhausted after watching this video. Looks good.
Nathaniel -This was posted just for you! Thank you for your comment. Take care. ua-cam.com/video/IWO_fj1POss/v-deo.html
Amazing culvert! Truly appreciate posting this video with detailed instructions.
Hi Brett. How you doing my friend! We may need to do this at your place. Take care. :)
Nice job. Very creative way to use concrete bags. Culvert looks much better now.
Thank you.
That is a wonderful idea you have there. Strong and has a nice look to it.
Thank you. It is holding up great after ten months. Yet I am far from the first to do this as it is an old idea used on farms decades ago. It is also used a lot in the South for retaining walls. :)
That is extremely beautiful & strong. I love that. It looks like art to me. Awesome work!
Hi Seth. Thank you for your comment. Have a great week!
Well done, well designed and executed!
Thanks. It turned out well. :)
Nice , good job that really came out looking great
Hi Danny. Thank you for your comment. Looks pretty nice and turned out well as well as holding up perfectly. Take care. :)
REALLY nice job- well done
@Peter Thanks.
Very nice work my friend 👏
Hi Peter. It turned out well. Have a good weekend. Thanks for commenting! :)
Looks good and thanks for the video/tips!!
@bryanm9019 - You are welcome! Thanks.
VERY impressive..👍
Thanks 👍
brilliant
Thanks T Minor.
Cool thanks!
You are welcome.
Call me weird but I want to see the next video with heavy rain!
Me too! This is a descent amount of rain. I will post a video for sure! ua-cam.com/video/vKC2TxNWrLk/v-deo.html
Hart work but at the end you see the pay day good result and the satisfaction of your work 😊
Yes, thank you for your comment!
Excellent
Thanks, it works that is for sure. :)
I’m scared that it’s not mixed it will eventually fall apart
I really like this method! Thanks for sharing!
You are welcome! Thanks for watching.
GREAT IDEA, GREAT JOB. wELL DONE!
@ElPrograming - Thanks
So simple yet so effective I never thought about leaving it in the bags. Great job and a pat on the back to the boys that moved all that
@vajazzlerthis Thanks. It's an old process used on farms. The only persons were me, myself and I doing the build.
@@SteveAddisGive the crew a "Well done!" from me.
Beautiful, I wish I could build mine similarly and still afford to eat.
Thanks for your comment. This is understandable, food and water first. :)
That's nice!
Thanks for your comment!
From a BEATER culvert to a WORK OF ART. Cheers to a project WELL DONE.
Thanks Mark.
My back is sore just thinking about lifting and stacking all those bags!
No shit.
However, much better than having to MIX all that concrete!
@@kenknight4560 when (machine) mixing, cut full bags in HALF. helps a lot with spinal endurance.
Use a hoe if medium mixing by hand.
& intermittent dancing helps a lot too !
A cool and innovative idea. Now we just need a bag that dissolves into the cememt.
The future of nanobots in 2030 and beyond.
Wow! Looks like some type of high end European stonework 😂. Very nice.
It turned out nice. Thanks for your comment. Take care.
Awesome job..
Thanks!
Wow! Who woulda thunk. The entire bag like that builds a retaining wall without a mixer. Far less work and looks well made and cosmetically pleasing. Fantabulous job Mr.
Hi Randy. It did turn out nice and is holding up well. Thank you for your comment! :)
I don't know where this man lives but in California Believe It or Not it'll be cheaper just to have a truck come in and pour it real quick by the time you're out of the bags lay it all out it's about the same as somebody come and just framing it and pouring it
Thanks for the input. It was a consideration. Yet, only $1.83 a bag - 650 Bags ($1,190 + Taxes & Rebar). Forms cost bit. Told this cost less here. Contractors backlogged and I needed it done before another wash out. We have a formed culvert a 8th mile downstream that does not direct logs and debris very well. The pipe was almost overloaded by one rain event before this. Take care. :)
@@SteveAddis you could be a reseller at that price! Its almost 7 bucks a bag ATM where I am!🤣
@@ogkfabrication4180 That is fairly expensive. I buy by the pallet to reduce cost.
@@SteveAddis that make alot of sense, I normally by my salt for my sidewalks like that every 2-3 years and it does save alot on cost
I doubt it.
metal rebar is always sad to order basalt rebar and never worry about rust and chipping due to water freeze thaw ... lasts so much longer
Jourdan Cooper. Thank you for this information! I am going to order some. Basalt rebar might be driven into the compacted rocky soil unlike fiberglass that splinters. Yet it my not bend for curves. I will add Basalt rebar to improvements suggestions. Thank you sir!!! :)
Great job and beautiful look but that must have cost a fortune to build.
Thanks Ken for your comment! Yes it cost a bit. The pipe was too much. Take care! :)The concrete: 650 Bags at $1.83 a bag ($1,190 + Taxes & Rebar). - Buy Quikrete High Strength at Lowe's.
@@SteveAddis Actually price wise, that's not to bad. Large premade retainer blocks would of cost more and probably not as sturdy.
Will W. I had a contractor friend out and he mentioned the large blocks. Then he mentioned going the route of Rip Rap and liquid mortar to seal it. Another retired contractor said he used concrete bags on the farm and said it would be less cost than forms and they have held up to this day. So, I went concrete blocks. Thanks for your comment. Not sure who deleted it. :)
@@SteveAddis And then I hit refresh and it was back. IDK. Sure made my reply look odd without your comment in front of it. All good now.
More thoughts,, curious what a muriatic acid wash would make it look.
It looks cool but I have to wonder if the bags deep inside the structure gout enough moisture to thoroughly activate the concrete mixture. How do you know if the middle of that structure isn't just dry powder. Then again for this application I might not matter
Thanks Zachary. you have a good valid question. I soaked the front and back and flooded the back for a couple of days before adding bags. Built at different stages and tested before moving on. Removed paper. Then I ran light water on it for more days. I had some bags almost completely setup on the pallet because the forklift nicked the plastic cover. Yes I too had the same concerns. Take care.
Very good job. Bags are excellent for a wall because they can be precisely placed
Thanks Mike. You are right, and adjustable. Sorry for the late reply.
Just a couple of observations.....and I do LOVE your idea. Since the sacks are just laid next to and on top of each other, with paper between them, I wonder if there is any bond between each sack. Also the rebar is laid on top of the sacks and I'd guess that will likely rust out since it's not imbedded in the concrete. Also, the bolts bolted into the culvert itself were a conventional bolt/all-thread that will rust it appeared and not galvanized, so this may be a problem over time. All in all...really nice work though and it looks great.
Hi Asta. Much appreciate your comments! The paper is a thin layer that inhibits bonding. Yet these bags conform perfectly in shape to lock in. On the culvert, unlike my other wall, I filled all of the voids with concrete. I tried removing some of that concrete between the voids on the exit wall (currently in progress) and it will not budge. I placed rebar embedded vertically in every bag that has plenty of "cover" for protection. All cracks were packed with concrete and wash filled with concrete. Water should not penetrate very much as this is only intermittent rain events hopefully. The threaded rods are Hillman Zinc plated rods from Lowes. You are correct that hot dipped galvanized would be best. I coated those areas with black sealer though. Water only reaches those rods and bolts at the top maybe every two years. As you know, steel rebar needs "cover" to be protected (a few inches) and forms a protective oxide layer in the high pH of the cement. Yet bags would not provide the same cover as a concrete pour. I do plan to seal the whole project to provide some extra cover. My concern with my other retaining wall was rebar rusting between the bags. I just went to a lumber supply and found that fiberglass rebar has been approved for vertical applications and is similar cost. Yet it may be difficult to hammer without splitting and may be best for between the bags. I will buy galvanized threaded rods in the future. Thanks for you observations! Take care.
I didnt know concrete bags could be use like that. I absolutly love the way you built it and that will last forever. Gives me ideas for a coming projet.
Thank you for your comment. It turned out nice and is holding up well now for ten months. The exit is almost done! I waited to start on it this Summer. Much success in your work!
Seen this done on a country road some 40 years ago, its holding up very well too! Good Job!
@Michael J. - Thank you. You are one of the few that actually have experience. WWII UK pill boxes were sometimes made like this still standing today. Take care!
I can see there was 29 demons here watching this video giving you a thumbs down. Oh my goodness what a awesome job
Thanks for commenting MrSprintcat! You are funny. Gave a great weekend! :)
Just imagine all the 1000 thumbs up in the same room with a 29 thumbs down. You sir have a great weekend
Very interesting application here.
I realize the bags are only paper, and act as forms that will decay away, but does the layers of paper between each layer and "brick" prevent the concrete from properly adhering together? I know all the rebar helps tie it all together but once dry, does the individual bag shaped blocks bit become loose ?
Hi Natasha. Prevents adhesion. No shrinkage as it was packed concrete and cured. Each bag is staggered, bars going through different angles. I packed concrete in the cracks and applied mortar to "cover" protect the rebar. The top is then bridged. Rebar is in the mostly rocky bottom. It is not moving. Some people here do not even mortar their stacked stone. This will not go anywhere soon. The paper is very thin when compressed and wet. I will update with videos in the future how it is holding up. Thank You for your comment and for watching! Have a good weekend. :)
In answer to your questions, yes, it does prevent adhesion. And yes, in time, they will become loose. Mostly the top and ends as gravity will hold most of it.
Looks amazing, do you have any plans to add concrete to the bottom of the culvert to prevent it from rusting out?
That is a very good question. Concerns were that so much rock moves through this culvert and you can hear it in one of the videos. The nicks will expose the aluminized steel. Concrete seems to stick to it well. That would protect it some. If you have any ideas, let me know. Perhaps some form of gunite? Thank you for your comment!
Wow I’ve never thought of this! Does the whole bag actually totally cure or have you noticed any that have uncured concrete inside?
@Matt Pro Hi Matt. Yes they totally cure. Because of the thickness of this wall, I back flooded the area after the first water application. I had the same questions myself. This is an old idea used on farms decades ago and the walls still are holding up. Thank you for your comment. Have a great day! :)
Excellent Job! I love the way it turned out, looks GREAT!!!!
Thanks Randy for your comment. It did turn out nice. Now for the exit side! Take care! :) Not the same type of wall, yet does the job - Concrete Bag Retaining Wall ua-cam.com/video/LHl5dYp3dg4/v-deo.html
Amazing job! What should be be curvature to make it stable? Does it me matter if the curvature is concave vs convex in a retaining wall application? Thanks!
Hi Ravi. If you are doing a culvert head wall, then concave wing wall or similar. I am at about 45 degrees to the culvert opening. Retaining wall: A concave retaining wall may get away with less tie backs. Convex may need complex tie backs. If you have a driveway above the wall, do the research or consult an engineer or experienced contractor for advise. Each solution has different variables. Especially if you are doing a large wall. I am getting away with this because I used a lot of concrete and and rebar that formed a very thick wall that cannot kick out. Slope: I brought each bag, level and inward matching the lines to create slope at the face of the wall. Just take your time and eye each course, the proceed to the next. Take care! :)
@@SteveAddis thank you!
@@SunnyCLT You're welcome!
Did you trash the bags or just wash them down to your neighbors property?
Hi Billy. I pressure washed the bags away on a light setting and picked up the paper. The bags bio degrade similar to leaves that wash down the stream. I am with you on all trash at the job site and respect any neighbors. Yet my only neighbors are small fish, frogs, water bugs, birds and deer that cross the stream. Thank you for your comment! Take care. :)
very nice !
I'm impressed. looks like zero maintenance
@Paul Gale Hi Paul. Thanks. I have monitored it for about 10 months. It has held up real well. This summer I will put more mortar in the ends and some seams. I will be putting a second coat of washed mortar on the top before Winter. In the video, it really was not completely finished.
Currently in July 2021, 60 pound bag at my home center cost $4.44. There are 60 60 pound bags in a yard of concrete. With tax, it comes out to $287. A yard of pre-mix delivered in a truck cost about $150. And in my opinion it would be one hell of a lot less work to form it up and pour it instead of dealing with dozens and dozens of bags of concrete. Just my $.02.
@Jeffrey Lonigro Your opinion is correct. For you, it would be much easier to form and pour it and save time. For me this was less cost and what I wanted. No forming costs. My cost on 7-20-21 currently for 50Lb bags is $1.93 ($2.68 - .70(Pallet Discount, 10% discount)) = $1.93. 512 bags x 1.93 = $988.16 My cost by yard would be $138.96. Time and money was not a factor. Yet this cost me less, looks better, and is holding up great. Concrete trucks cannot get to all locations at times. - Thanks for commenting.
Awesome job! How many bags do you think you used?
Thanks! I believe about six to seven hundred. Now, I need to do the other side, with much less. It is not a head wall like this. :)
@@SteveAddis So about $2500 for all the bags, not bad in my opinion. Love the look and it looks solid.
@@chaleowin7732 $1.83 a bag at that time. So around $1200 + rebar & tax. Thanks for your comment.
@@SteveAddis That's a steal, bulk rates? By the way, I can't watch this video ua-cam.com/video/RoVRPhy0568/v-deo.html Won't load.
@Cha Leowin Hi Cha. Yes, that is by pallet and a discount. Here is the reloaded video corrupted after 3K views. Not sure why. Thanks for letting me know! Take care. ua-cam.com/video/vKC2TxNWrLk/v-deo.html
👌
Hi Damien. Thanks for watching!
How many bag did you use in the job
Hi Jerry. About 650 bags.
So you just put the dry bags on and then use a hose on them or something? Did you put the water in first?
Yes I used a hose after placement from a nearby gravity fed spring and let it run slow sprinkle several times, then all night after that, then back flood. Thanks for your comment!
Nice job Steve. You are a real craftsman.
Thank you DuWayne. Try to do the best with what I have. Learned a few things as this is the first one. :)
How do you soak it? Do yo submerge it? To let it set up? You just show stacking it and after pressure washing?
@william scott : I saturated the concrete bags well with plenty of water over night or more. Keep the bags damp for as long as possible to promote the curing process. Build small sections leaving the rebar exposed to bridge the next set of rebar and cover with plastic to protect from rain. Finally, lightly soak bags as many days as possible. Make sure you are using paper bags. If you have time, lightly soak then proceed with more water between the steps. Thanks for your comment.
Did you have to block the water while you did the project? Or is it ok to let the creek water run?
I did not block it. Just watched the forecast and did it when less chance of rain. Might cover with geofabric to protect or burlap bags.
Hi Steve, Thank you for sharing your project! My family has been battling erosion around our culvert for about a decade now. I am wondering if your project might be a solution for us. Would you comment on how you prepared the foundation for the wall--you call it the "key" in the video. Thanks again.
Hi @Julia Barnes. You are welcome. The key is like a notch below the pipe where the water will flow. Like a key that locks the wall in place so that water will not undercut. I did not dig too deep, because the bedrock was close. It acts like a foundation to the wall. Also, the bags go under the culvert in that key attempting to disperse forces around the pipe. I put concrete bags at the front, flat, pipe level, (only a few) too help direct and wash and rocks and debris through. The old bridge that was further up stream and just last year caved in because it was not keyed or the sides were not protected from water back cutting. Water is so powerful...Hope you finally fix your culvert!
@@SteveAddis Thanks again!
How did you get the paper off the bags? Did you use a flame torch or just let it degrade over time?
I pressure washed on a low setting. Your idea would be much easier. Thanks for the comment! ua-cam.com/video/tUlc1Qb5A74/v-deo.html
That turned out awesome! Wow.
Skliros, It did turn out well. Thank you for your comment. :)
This was really neat!! Do you think you could use this method for a creek bank slipping?
Glad you liked it. I believe you might if keyed it well and used the cloth behind. The edge of the wall might need to be tied into the bank to prevent wash behind the wall.
What an amazing job, very impressive.
Can you answer a couple questions...
Did you get an estimate from a professional? If you did, how much was it? How much did you save doing it yourself?
I see in another comment you said the total cost was $1,200... A work of art for almost no money.
How many bags did you use?
I did not get an estimate. Maybe a viewer would post a guess on the cost. My retired engineer friend just said this would cost less and I would like it better. He did it on his farms. A contractor stopped by about a month or so after asked and I already decided on this. He suggested rip rap and liquid mortar. Rip rap is a bit expensive the last time I bought it. About 650 bags. The price now is $1.93 a bag. Thank you for your comment. :)
Him
Sorry, will never last, not mixed, will definitely break apart and crumble. Looks nice though.
Thanks Dtom. You are right it is not mixed and I understand that thought. Ten months and no signs of degradation or intrusion on the rebar. These are called "Already Mix" I meant "Ready Mix". Just kidding. You do need to make sure the aggregate is mixed in the bag. And cure the product. Dams are made with a more dry concrete packed and rolled. - Thanks for your comment.
I was thinking it was just for show and hubris, but the end of the vid w/ the water shows a well thought out and executed plan. Well done sir.
Thanks for your comment! Most views do not watch the ending. It sort of came together after talking to my friend who did this on his farm many years ago. If you read this video description, watch the Practical Engineering video about culvert models. It is interesting. I will show that if I have the same event in a video. It should hold up for our lifetime if maintained.
I can imagine the amount of labor involved.
Wouldn't be easier to frame and pour using decorative forma, most likely much cheaper.
Great job any way.👍👍👍
Hi Paul. Yes it would be easier. Yet this was lock down and I had time to build it. It only cost $1200 in materials. Thanks for your comment! :)
@@SteveAddis
As I've said,
admiration for your commitment to the project.
Best regards,
@Paul Jastrzębiec-Milewski Thanks my friend. I just wanted to get you the price and situation. It would really be nice just to hire someone to do the decorative stone imprint. - I really do appreciate your comments. In highest regards. Have a good weekend and a good week! :)
@@SteveAddis
Hi Steve, considering your work and looking at the entrance to the property it must be spectacular as well. Wish you a lot of courage and strength to tackle your next projects.
Best regards,
@Paul Jastrzębiec-Milewski Thank you! I have been focusing on priority items, like access and water control. Looking back, it was always fun to improve and make the very best of where we lived, apartment, or a home. So very thankful for each place we have lived. Have a great week!
Great technique but please cap your rebar so you don't trip and impale yourself
Yes, I am going to cut that off. I don't plan to extend it. Thanks for looking at the details.
Nice work !!!
Thanks.
Great job and looks good as well. Did you have to water the bags as you stacked them or just water them all in after you were done? I didn't know if the bags in the middle of the wall for example would get enough water to solidify but, I guess they would over time.
Thanks Roger. One side is done at a time. I stacked the first several rows on the left side. Placed the short vertical rebar right away. Covered with plastic between jobs in case it rained. Then stacked more rows. Placed rebar 45 degree angles. Placed more rows. Then placed more vertical rebar bridging with the all the bags and rebar below. This left rebar protruding above the wall. Watered the whole side all night front and back. It soaked in real well. Then did the same for the other side. Placed another couple of rows on the entire wall. These went on the protruding rebar. I watered again for a all night. Cut the rebar to length for the 80lb bags. Placed the 80lb bags. Watered again. This is a light sprinkle using a circular nozzle. Water on the back side I allowed to run a bit more volume. I guess I should have put this in the video, yet thought some viewers might find the video too long. Water was from a nearby spring tap so no cost there. Take care.
Awesome wall and looks well engineered. However that makes my back hurt just looking at all those bags and the effort required.
Hi. Thank you for your comment. Bags must be carried carefully. The exit wall is nearing completion. Engineer Tom gave me great tips. :)
wont the exposed rebar rust into the concrete and break it?
its sticking out to the dirt some places
Hi Hindu. Yes. That is temporary in case I need to extend it to direct the water to the side if it goes over the top. I am going to coat that soon. I tried to make good rebar cover by keeping four inches from the face or more. Then I mortared it, and will seal it. Thank you as that is a good observation. :)
Hindu, Check out basalt rebar when you have time. Here is one article. www.monolithic.org/link-to/basalt-fiber-rebar
Awesome job! I need a culvert, so maybe I will go this route. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you and you are welcome. It was a fun project. I work on the the exit tomorrow. Much less work. Much success in your work! :)
sorry if this has been asked, how many bags did you use ??
Hi Dan. About 650 to 700 bags at $1.83. I should pull the receipts to be exact. My other retaining wall used exactly 512 bags at $1.85 and had more surface area. Take care.
How many bags?
Hi James, About 650 50lb bags at a discount at the time around $1200 cost. Thanks for watching! :)
How did you get the bags off the face? Did it degrade away so quickly?
Hi 1983. Yes they will degrade, yet I don't like to wait that long. I used a pressure washer on low level setting and away the paper goes. :)
That wall will probably exist for a very long time! Nice work!
Thanks Angelo. It will do what we need for sure. Waiting for another larger rain to film for memories. Thanks for watching. :)
@OldCountryman That is funny. Almost a year old and no degradation or issues. Can hammer the face and barely chip. Been on farms lasting decades. Not a new method here.
Great looking job! The only drawback I see, is the life of a culvert is not very long. I’ve replaced 3 that were only 12-13 years old.
Hi David. Thanks for your comment! That is very odd if not unusual. These type of walls are still working fine on my friend's farm after decades. This one here is approaching almost one year (last fall) since it was built and there are no signs of degradation or changes in the wall. Take care! :)
@@SteveAddis I meant the pipe rusts out. That head wall you made will last forever.
@@davidhorne2326 Sorry for my misunderstanding. My friend told me steel culvert pipes all have a lifespan as well. The previous culvert was dual 30" pipe side by side. Everything was really getting hung up with large branches and logs. When the old pipe was pulled out, it literally fell apart. This new pipe should be heavier gauge aluminized steel by Contech, in hopes give it a longer service life span. Only time will tell. It is 66" wide 51" tall. Yet the pipe nearly overflowed in an unusual rain event over our area. So I built this wall hoping to keep the water and such events blocking my only crossing and access to home sweet home. :) Take care. Have a good weekend!
Great job. How long in feet and how high in feet is your wall? How many bags did you use? And where they double stacked front to back? Thank you for your help. I am trying to find a way to put up a 125' x 8' retaining and looking at different options. Ron
Hi Ron, The pipe is about 60 inches in diameter. About 650 bags. Yes, I double stacked and backed rip rap as you see in the video. If you are doing a retaining wall 8' height, be careful and study Tie Backs and drainage. Each site has different variables. Seek opinions from experienced contractors. My first retaining wall in the link below, takes advantage of stable soils, solid clay base, curvature and lots of rebar. There are special Rip Rap bags made for this. Much success in your work! ua-cam.com/video/LHl5dYp3dg4/v-deo.html
@@SteveAddis Thank you
Can you build a castle in your next video?
Fun idea. - Thanks for posting!
I see one big problem in the first 30 seconds. You used AK Steel.
Thanks for the input.
The concrete bags would begin to deteriorate and crumble in just a few years here in Northern Maine.
@Samuhel Tompkins - These are now solid concrete, hammer cannot break. Water, freezing and salt may take its toll where you are. Plan to coat with high cement ratio and sand if I see any cracks. Thanks for your comment. :)
Ok. I hate to be one of the few naysayers. 1. Are the concrete bags totally wetted out 100% thru? 2. Ready mix in the bag is not always uniform throughout. 3. For the same cost and effort you might build a stronger cheaper setup. That being said the end result was a great inprovement over the dirt and rock mix previously. My only other suggestion would to be to try to slow the flow hitting the wall by possibly creating a small pond or enlarged holding basin. And when overflow IS inevitable, its best to have a way to direct it that is ideal, say away from structure. Good job
@Svend Hellested. Hi. These are very good valid questions. 1.Yes, flooded the bag on the back side in stages. 2. True. I turn the bags on the sides twice on a flat surface to get a smooth face and mix aggregate. Otherwise it looks bad. Yet it all can be coated later. 3. Cost $1200. Yes a formed job would be stronger and easier. Yet this is solid enough and there is no need for PSI strength with the water we get. Contractors were backlogged and I wanted it done. It is holding up great. Your catch basin idea just might work. We get these flash flood water event about every year or so. Thanks for commenting!
My cousins is running with concrete bag truck weights; he was going to return some extra bags from a project maybe 6 months ago but never returned them. The bags aren’t monolithic like a concrete pour or even a dry-set would have been. I think you would have used less concrete by forming and pouring; it looks nice though.
@Chirs Lackey That is an interesting story about the truck. Concrete is great for weighing things down. Yes, you are correct. Thanks. Have a good weekend.
How did you get very long rebar through the bags?
Hi Laura. I used a sledge hammer. I guess I should have shown that. It was in one of the pictures. Thanks for commenting!
Thank you for all the great information!!
@@Speeglelookingglass You are welcome. :)
Ok, now I want to make a bunker like this....
Looks great 👍🏻
I’m thinking along the same way to do a 4 foot high retaining wall, trying to figure out how many bags I need !!!
Sounds good.
Just an excellent job, a ton of work but you can sleep well, that baby is not washing away
Thanks Snow. Well paced work is not too bad. I wondered how you knew about the sleeping part. Then I realized, you must have watched the video ending! Yes, we came home one night to more than a foot of rushing water over the drive, using a flashlight to see if enough drive was left to cross!! Lol
@@SteveAddis nope am a shipbuilder and just looking at that design you have encorperated just about everything possible to get the most flow out of that diameter culvert, I meant that as a compliment as you really could not do more unless you go bigger diameter but with mother nature being pissed with us at the moment How Big is Big Best of luck
@@snowgorilla9789 I was joking, because during the storms I wondered if we would get out of here. Ship builder would be an interesting job and related to water management. The way this pipe was protruding from the drive caused the water to slow up and thus rise. The exit water level was lower than the entrance. If this wing wall becomes overloaded, it should divert water away from the drive (up to a point), to the low area that used to flood. If it goes completely over the culvert, a friend said to concrete over the whole drive as a splash way. - Hind sight, 70 inch oval pipe or more. It's a done deal now. Lol - Thankfully is only intermittent flash floods.
Very nice! Thank you for the tutorial!
You’re welcome 😊
Absolutely amazing job, thanks for sharing
Thank you Paul. Yes, it turned out nice. You are welcome! Have a great weekend. :)
Looks good, would be interesting to know how well it holds up over the years ahead.
Thank you. Yes it will be something see. Ten months now and it is looking good. I wanted to wait before I put a final coat over the top of with mixed 3-2 fine sand cement.
Concrete does nothing except get stronger for like 50 years, so it will probably still be there 100 years from now unless someone destroys it.
Excellent work nice looking job 👍
Thanks Wymer. Did turn out nice. :)
Wow that before shot is crazy, almost seems like you need a bigger culvert
@bfayer, yes that is what I thought too. Exit was about 70%, entrance was about 98%. The effect might have been protruding pipe causing the water to raise. Then there is the friction of a non smooth pipe. We shall see. Thanks for your comment.
Greetings from Australia. Great idea, am going to try that myself.Thanks for posting.
@Colin I - Greetings! Glad you liked it. The video description some tips and improvement ideas. Take care!
Wish I had seen this about 15 years ago. I had a very similar watershed that flowed through a pond area.
Quikrete makes bags for retention called Rip RAP. The bags at the base under water are the really well set. The concrete set right under the water.
@@SteveAddis The sound I hear everyday is in San Antonio. It's a very loud noise and I hope someday it can be identified. It's a monotone screeching noise and goes from tree to tree.
@@SteveAddis Unfortunately, I used concrete blocks with concrete and rebar and that was extreme work.
@@Speeglelookingglass At least your job is complete. This was not too bad if you pace pace yourself and do it in stages.
The good thing about using concrete instead of cement is that you don't have to add any aggregate.
One less step. Take care!
Nice! Thank you! I might use this method for my project.
It turned out well. You are welcome. Thanks for the comment!
Crazy IMPRESSIVE
Keith, have an awesome day. Thanks for your comment. :)
Very thankful for you sharing this. Excellent work and gives me great ideas to implement myself, however, not nearly on this scale.
@@keithcastleberry3993 Glad it helped. A few local people wanted to know how I built it and thus the video. I did one retaining wall I posted and more to follow. I hope to post some good tips on the channel in good time. Take care friend! And much success. :)
Very appealing. Has a nice organic look. Personally I hate doing concrete.
@James Payne - Thanks for commenting.
In a later video you reference mixing the bags for one of the walls. Here you explitly say you do no mix the bags. Please clarify/elaborate.
I mixed the bags as an improvement. I roll them several times end to end. Mostly on the bags that are near the top or facing the front. Thanks for your comment!
Steve,You show a before shot at the end of the video. You should show an after shot with the before shot at the end of the video.
Thank you for the advise. Take care Ricky.
Does the water wick up to each bag or do you wet them all down once you have them in place?
Yes it wicks to the rows on the ground in my case about three or four courses. That is why it was important to get the rebar in right away at the bottom tying all the bags together. Then stack some more, place more rebar then water it for a day or two, then continue on the project. There are notes in my descriptions to help explain how I did this to apply to your project. Thanks for your comment!
It looks good.
Hi Mikah. It turned out well. Thank you for your comment! :)