A big "thank you!" to Bobby from Florida for sending the oil to me. He's had the oil in his possession for 35 years and very generously sent it to me for use in this video. Thank you Bobby!!
I want to say Project Farm spent way more time than most people can imagine for these testing. Freezing oil takes 24hr, cook test are 120 mins , wear testing 10 mins, oil race, and running in small engines, AND he didn't just step away and wait for timers. He took temps of each test and rotate oil pots as the time are running!!!! Oh yea and sending oil to labs probably also take a few days... After videos is done, there editings... This guy is the true legend Thank you for your time to make these videos for us!
Damn straight! Whenever I need something shop-related I check to see if he's reviewed it and how it performs against the tested competing items. Saved me plenty of headache since some of the products I was considering ended up being bottom scorers. Never been disappointed by his recommendations and I love how thorough he is in his testing.
@Джейсон Хичкок My dad told me new cars when he was a kid (late 50s) offered oil filters as OPTIONAL equipment. If you sprang for the filter, you could extend your normal 2000 mile oil change to 3000 miles. 50,000 miles on a car was considered very high miles (probably equiv. to 200K today).
The question is whether the oil can be affected by the long storage time. And the metal can is also 70 years old. But is it the same type of metal can that is manufactured today, maybe there are other substances in that can?
@@ateamfan42 At that time it was probably cast iron straight through the whole engine probably also the pistons? and it was not a question of ethanol in gasoline
Yes, very much this. I think most people are getting sick of the 'padding' a lot of content creators add and this channel is a refreshing change of pace. Keep up the fantastic work!
The green hue is actually a good thing! It means it is real Pennsylvania Grade Crude oil. It's green because the oil has a low asphalt content. Back when there were lots of conventional oil wells in Pennsylvania, the oil usually had this green hue. It also tended to have the right hydrocarbon lengths to be optimized for lubrication. There wasn't much refining necessary. That's why two major lubricating oil brands, Quaker State and Pennzoil, have their roots in PA. Sunoco also got started with lubricating oil in PA but quickly diversified into fuel oil in other states. Nowadays, most crude from Pennsylvania is fracked directly out of the Marcellus shale; the green stuff usually migrated out of the Marcellus and into reservoir rocks like limestone. The shale oil is black. But I've seen the green oil, especially a few times where my rig was drilling for gas around old conventional wells. And I'm sure Pennzoil and Quaker State get oil from all over the place, because they're brands, not companies. Oil can come in all kinds of colors besides black.
Back in the 60's it was (Edit: generally accepted) common knowledge that PA crude produced the best oils. I used Quaker State in all my vehicles back then. Used to have the tool that would punch the hole in the can and double as the pour spout. Always kept it in a clean coffee can to keep the dust off.
@@savage22bolt32 Yes my dad has one or two of those in his garage ! Not sure exactly where they're at in the garage but I know he didn't throw them away ! Hes not with us anymore or I'd ask him ! He also used to use Quaker State when I was growing up !
In the 1950s the viscosity and service grade were stamped or inked onto the lid of the can. My father used to fill up the car for the weekend at a friend' s BA (British American) service station. You could also buy "bulk oil" in glass bottles and I was allowed to fill the bottles from oil drums in the cellar.
Looking at the box, he's clearly dealt with UPS shipping things before. I've sent items in wooden crates wrapped in commercial floor protection cardboard and still had UPS damage the items inside then argue that the packaging was not good enough to give me the full insurance claim payment.
The reason you saw no weight grade on the can was the rust. They marked the top of the can. Back in the day of single weight oils you ran 10s and 20s in the winter and 30s and 40s summer based on your operation zone. If it was a detergent oil or nondetergent it was on the top too. Can sides were universal labeling with only the top being the varying label component.
Oil changes are a money hungry scam. Whether you do or don't believe me, my dad has a box truck with 170k miles when he got rid of it. It still had the original oil when he got rid of it. It's still on the road today.
When you opened that oil can I was waiting to see if you had the old fashioned opener that slid in and opened it with the built in pour neck made into it, made of metal. I guess I'm telling my age now. GOOD JOB of testing, I watch almost ALL of your videos and appreciate the NON BIASED results no matter the name brand. It's good to know that their are still some AMERICANS out there that CAN'T be bought by corporate money. STAY JUST LIKE YOU ARE.
@@ProjectFarm I remember jabbing a screw driver through the top if a church key wasn't handy lol back when a can/bottle opener was in every toolbox. I'm not telling my age though lol.
Another, great video, thank you, great job, now I know why a 63 Chevy, I bought off an uncle, back in the late 70s was so full of sludge, he used, quaker state, oil, many people, used to complain, how bad, that oil was, years ago, so I never used it, they were right!
@Lbolting005 Why do you doubt he has a fucking old can of oil? And if you manage to fuck up spelling "your mama" you are automatically legally unable to insult anyone.
This oil is designed for antique motors with no oil filters. My 1926 dodge has a manufacture recommended oil change at 500 miles. In these engines you do not want any detergents or dispersants as they will not be filtered out.
If someone was smart enough to pay extra for a filter for the Chevy it was a bypass type that clamped to the intake manifold with oil lines going to the pressure and return ports. Sometime in the 60s you could no longer get good elements. Then you needed to install a Frantz oil cleaner. Frantz Also made an adapter so you could use toilet paper in the stock housings. Then you could give the finger to the oil change racket.
Another amazing production analysis. I remember seeing that green Quaker State vintage mid 1960's! It was greenish and did have an SAE rating at the time. There were Detergent and non detergent types. I recall non detergent was recommended for older engines so as not to dissolve or stir up to many engine deposits, I recon!
Mrs. Beast haha yeah i tried getting a pair of the cheapest tires once and one was out of round. although they're not too bad for the price if you return or claim warranty on defective tires as soon as possible
and engine blocks… I mean... stock... leme say that again, STOCK block and rotating assembly 5.3 making over 1100hp... no special high-nickle Mexican block with black voodoo infused pistons... STOCK from GM... making and HOLDING well over 1,000hp fyi: I do not endorse LS motors... personally I hate em, but damn what a claim
Fascinating. I'm not much of a petrol head, but I do find old tech interesting, particularly when compared to similar modern tech. You also have a interesting array of tools and expertise. I've warched a few of your other videos, but this is the one to get me to subscribe.
I hope you sent Bobby his aluminum box back with the empty can , those guy's collect oil cans . Thank you for the videos,your honesty is highly appreciated .Truth is a powerful weapon against evil.
Not everything that was made in the past was better ;) Engine oil evolved a lot since the 50s (and engines too). That was a fun video to watch! Thanks to Bobby and thanks to Project Farm. Your tests are super useful and interesting (and had influenced my buying habits)
could be, but are they better. maybe for modern engines. but the engines from back then runned fine on those oils. maybe even better. as you see there was lead in it. and thats one hell of a good thing. maybe not for humans but sure for the engine. so we shouldnt feel superior to what they did back then. maybe we should more appreciate what they did back then without those dumb computers we have nowadays.
Dealing with vacuum tubes, alkaline batteries, polyester radials, oxidized rubber or whatever made everything sticky and brittle, plastics suitable for milk jugs being used as cogs, car engines that needed constant maintenance to make it to the ripe old age of 75k miles before it turned to rust… I will gladly accept the modern.
@@jd646Turbodiesel cars without tight emission regulations have indeed been the peak of car reliability. Some Electric cars are also low maintenance, we'll see how that develops in the future.
@@laserfalcon I found out long before the internet how bad Pennsylvania motor oils were for gunking up engines. Torn enough engines down over time to see for myself which oils were good and back then Quaker State was one of the worst with Pennzoil a close second. Modern oils are a lot different and I'm not tearing engines down much anymore so these brands may be good now but I still won't use them.
When i was a kid, someone gave me a bunch of vintage oil. After using it in my ignorance, a cold front moved in and after about 20 minutes on the road, my oil filter exploded, draining every drop from the motor. My first car was savagely tested on but i learned a lot from my mistakes. This video was nostalgic for me, thank you Mr. Farm :)
Agreed. Please be sure to check about a permit. Some local municipalities have ordinances on, “Altitude and distance of test.” Stick to 0w maybe a 5w at first then once you have it down, start pushing that 10w and so on. Good luck...
I remember when I realized that someone born at the end of WWII was 18 when I was born. Now, eighteen years ago doesn't even get me back to the last century.
Todd, I am a recent subscribed member and love your show! I came across a problem that that everyone will likely come across when it comes to refrigerators and AC units for cars and home. I was given a Maytag refrigerator for free and it was only 4 yrs old and it looks like new. I took it on as a project and it clearly was low on refrigerant. I installed a piercing valve and I refilled it and it worked perfect for two months and then it stopped cooling. I refilled it with Freon R134A and sure enough it worked great again but required to be refilled twice the first to weeks. I took apart the unit and exposed all the components and filled according to instructions a liquid dye and bought a Freon sniffing tool and after three weeks i absolutely could not find the leak so i knew i had a micro leak that was likely under the insulation in the frig box. So instead of destroying the frig I bought a product on line called supercool sealer made in the USA. Due to sketchy info on the direction on the package I had to call the people that sold this product to determine the proper amount of sealer required for a home refrigerator and they said it was equal to a quarter ton refrigeration unit. I started the project May 22- 2022 and placed the sealer in the unit and kept a steady log. Its now been two full months and i had to fill the unit twice in the first two weeks and since then the leak seems to have slowed down but hasn't stopped yet and i am getting to critical level on the intake compressor pressure. My question to you, is there a way to test this product and others to prove if they really work or not and which one really is good ? I think we all can benefit from this.
@@MathewPanicker1010 yeah quite awhile ago when he first said "thats alot of damage!" on his video I mentioned it saying it was hilarious and he liked the comment and hes been doing it ever since :)
Our extended family kept our cars for many years. I remember it being a rare thing for an engine to make it to 100k before something blew up. Now.. it's not uncommon to see an engine hit 300k+ and it still run like new. My 92 Camry 4 has over 460K and only recently has it started to smoke a bit.
Hang onto it - you won't get close to that with anything built after 2007. Things are getting worse by the year. Regressing, thanks to automakers trying to save a buck.
@@SmittySmithsonite It's not entirely caused by savings, but rather it is business. Why would you make long lasting engines if you get money when they break?
@@MadEvo606 - That's immoral business. Sign of the times. My '86 Grand Marquis with the 302 / 5.0 V8 has 267k miles on it - doesn't burn a drop of oil. Runs perfect. All original factory fuel pump, and driveline, too!
If you do something like this again, I recommend opening the container from the bottom. The empty can is more valuable to an automotive memorabilia collector if the top is in tact. Just a thought...
Thanks for the test! I'm cleaning out the garage and I still have 3 qts. of 1970s Pennzoil 30 weight I cleared out of my dad's shed 15 years ago. It's kind of nostalgic, but I may as well recycle it, because I already have way too much nostalgia!
When I worked at a Service Station in the 1960s. We could always tell when someone used Quaker State from the buildup of sludge around the lifters and rockers. After this test now I can see why.
I older cars that used that had used Quaker State 10 or 15 years. The oil would turn to sludge. I would spoon it out around the lifters and push rods. I would add one quart of transmission fluid in place of a quart of oil to the new oil and run it thirty minutes. Gunk would roll out when I drained it. I would keep doing that after every oil change. After about eight or so oil changes not much sludge would come out. I would use an engine flush next few oil changes. The engines got better in the first 20 k miles I owned them haha. Sound better and ran better. Some would have so much gunk could only add five quarts instead of six. I had to pull a oil pan and pump off of a Chevy 250 straight six. It clogged first time after trans fluid.
This helps explain why the cars my friends and I could buy in our teens were always so sludged up. In the mid 60s, the cars we could afford were all 10 or more years old and you could scoop the sludge out of the heads with a spoon. So much so, that we could buy smokers that only needed the return holes in the head cleaned out. Thanks.
If I remember correctly when I was a kid I worked at a service station that did Quaker State oil the green band on the top was non-detergent the red band on the top was a detergent oil
Truth !!! I worked as a gas jockey after school in the late Fifties and also seem to remember the same thing. If that can top wasn't so rusty you could probably see the viscosity rating, too. By the looks of the oil it was probably a straight 30 or 40 weight. As the guy down below notes, it's probably from the Forties because multigrades weren't yet made then.
I remember selling those cans of Quaker State and Wolfs Head. When it was very cold you could not pour it from the can with just a church key hole in it. You had to have the full spout and then wait 5 minutes . And to think people added STP to this stuff. Engines had bigger oil lines but bearing clearances are essentially the same. Those were the days when an average engine life was about 100K before a rebuilt was needed. Now a well designed engine can last 300k+ and never have the crankcase split. Even the incredibly more complex valve trains hold up amazingly well. It appears the newer oils are responsible for at least part of this longevity. Thanks for the video and the trip down memory lane.
The newer oils,especially the synthetics,don't change their viscosity as much over temperature swings as did the old oils,synthetics allow multi viscosity performance without the damaging additives that were used to make the old multi-vis oils.
I can remember when a friend of mine worked in a full service gas station, when you would add oil to a cars engine, that ws back in the mid 70's. You're video's are always informative.
Yup... Pa crude right out of the ground makes a fine fence post preservative, every now and then you find a drum in the woods with old posts in it. Also it is really nice for finishing wood furniture....it gives the wood a nice glow. oddly, it doesn't stink once it ages awhile. They still sell cans of Pa crude for wood finishing.
I remember the mid 1960's when all the older kids had STP stickers on their old 1950's cars. I once took the valve covers off a 58 pontiac and filled a 1 gallon can with the sludge out of the valve covers! Yeah, the good old days.
Worked in a full service Standard Station in the early 60s. It was common to remove the drain plug and nothing came out. Push a screw driver on and a couple of quarts came out. The boss would say put some kerosene in and let it run. Probably made things worse. When you overhauled an engine you spent more time cleaning the engine than anything. My uncle went to a Shell station for their multi Grade oil change. He said it always uses a quart of oil then doesn't use any more until the next oil change. I realize now that about 1qt evaporated.
Pensoil (however) was notorious for running up an engine. The old guys used to say if you had an oil leak,run pensoil for 1 change and it would stop the leak! Would be instantly obvious that an engine was a a pensoil engie as soon as you took a valve cover off.
and that's, why we used to in the old days, warm an engine much longer before putting it under load because engine oil sat in the crankcase for much longer than it does now.
@@cgasucks i wouldn't bet my house on the probabilties that in 70 years most cars will be electric . Something tells me that combustion engins will still be arround and not just a few of them
The green is zinc, which is actually a good thing. Penn Grade racing oil is one of the few oils you can still buy with significant quantities of zinc added.
I have some old 1940 50's popular science magazines. There was a article in one of the issues where the magazine recommeneded to change your oil every 1000 miles in your car. So your testing confirms the reason for this recommendation.
My 37 Studebaker book.says don't drain the oil . change the filter when the.oil looks dirty on the dipstick. Oil filters were optional equipment then.they were far superior to modern full flow filters. They had cotton.elements Toilet paper filters are superior to cotton. Put a Frantz oil cleaner on a nearly new Chevy Suburban 1963 model with a 292 big six.It used Chevron Delo 100 20 wt. It got a new roll of toilet paper and a new qt of oil about every 2 k. Lost track of it at over 350 k. Before I left California I put a Motor Guard oil cleaner on his Plymouth Fury .
Kendall motor oil has the logo of a hand making the V sign. That wasn't V for Victory that was 2 as in it cold last 2000 miles, one of the first oils to do so.
Kendall was a reputable oil. Most of us that used toilet paper filters in the 60s didn't drain oil. 2000 miles was about when we changed the toilet paper and added a quart of oil. Started going with a girl that had a 66 VW beetle She was changing the oil every 1500 miles. I think that was recommended. VW saved millions by not putting a filter on the engine.The owner got the shaft.That bull shit stopped when I put a Motor Guard on it. Took several filter changes before big metal stopped showing up in the filter housing. The original Motor Guard filtered from the bottom up. I tilted the filter so the big metal wouldn't gravity back down into the engine. Frantz wanted their filter upside down on a beetle which did the same thing.
Brings back a lot of old memory's with that old Quaker State can. Learn why are new cars last long now it the oil. Thought it was more the metal energy it might be both but I see how different the oil has change. Great video thanks
I well remember Green oil, yes it does smell different. Big problem was it is paraffin based oil, along with high evaporation rate, under the valve covers was a gooey waxy mess had to scrape the valve covers and valve springs, rocker arms to adjust the valve clearance. Back then blow by was via a tube down under the car, air rushing by caused a vacuum and drew out the fumes. THANKS FOR YOUR TESTING !!!
Enjoy your fun comparisons! A thought...the wear scar test may be skewed in favor the inferior oils. As the scar gets larger, the bearing surface is larger, thus the psi load is lessened meaning the oil isn’t stressed as much. A smaller scar may mean a substantially higher load bearing oil in this example as it’s smaller load bearing surface represents a substantially higher psi loading. Whatcha think?
I remember from back in the day that oils contained paraffin. That's where the smoke came from, and the oil test did not show a test for paraffin. I remember way back then ,when we pulled the valve covers off a high mileage engine that was not maintained properly that it had that paraffin sludge built up from the base of the head to the top of the rocker arms between each one of the rockers and about 1/2 inch thick on the underside of the valve covers.
@@stewartcaldwell5299 what we call kerosene, others call paraffin. Pennsylvania oil has a paraffin base. Texas oil has what is known as an asphalt base. Paraffin oil by nature tends to be less acidic. Of course modern chemistry can be used to modify that I suppose.
@@hotrodray6802 Not sure where you get that. Pretty much all oil obtained from Pennsylvania is paraffin based. This is something I learned as an engineer at GM.
@@iamasmurf1122 The fillercap on the brakefluid tank in a car has a hole in it, so moisture can get in so how is it not garbage after 6 months of use then?
This is a phenomenal video. Great job and it really answers the question, if motor oil can last past is shelf life. I know this is an extreme test and you wouldn't want to use vintage oil in todays engines, especially now that Ive seen this video, but it shows Oil can last for a very long time on a shelf, so my 7 year old synthetic oil can remain on my shelf for use when needed!!
I'm one of those "drive it until the wheels fall off" guys. Between 1989 and 1995 I drove a single vehicle using 10-40 Pennzoil. Changes in motor oil in that period gave me a 5% boost in gas mileage just in reduced engine friction. Modern motor oils have done a phenomenal job of reducing engine wear.
I remember using that kind of oil in the 60’s, with those kind of cans you had this metal spout that you could push into the can so you didn’t need a funnel. Most of the cars back then seemed to burn oil as there always seemed to be this big blue cloud of smoke coming out of the tail pipe when you started the car. Also we usually did our own oil changes but would just dig a hole under the car/truck and drain the oil into the ground, kind of like returning it to where it came from I guess ;)
@@jackiechan_wtf4041 -Tune-ups consisted of replacing Points, Plugs, Rotor, Condenser... If you had big bucks, Wires and a Cap. Nobody i knew had big bucks back then. If the car needed wires and a cap, we would find better condition ones in the junkyard. Ah, the good old days.
@@jackiechan_wtf4041, I've worked at a few shops, where the "technicians" didn't now how to work on carburetors. Couldn't even spell "carburetor." Funny story, when I was in High School, the English teacher asked us to submit words, for next week's spelling test. Yes, I did add "carburetor." And, to this day, every time I think of that word, I hear it spelled in a Scottish brogue. She was a Scot. Sounded like Professor Mcgonagall. steve
Steve Skouson absolutely correct. Most, not all, younger techs would shrivel up and run away over a carb. Also correct that that most, not all, older techs who know their way around a carb or old school ignition systems can’t comprehend a modern car and don’t want anything to do with it.
@@xIronMikex how much was it worth can always go find a $500 scrap car find one of their trucks at a lower speed. And lock the brakes up. Car in front of you stopped short so you had to. Now you get a chance to use your new MRI machine and make them pay. Hell having access to the machine. You could swap your image with a random persona changing the file name showing you have all kinds of issues. Fed ex is one if the worst delivery companies. It's like they intentionally drop crush and get pissed and take a bat hitting the boxes in the truck one by one. I ordered a nice air compressor. Firsvobe damaged guy told me if I take it off this lift gate it's been delivered and you have to reschedule and pay for lift gate serivce to return it. Or be asked to take it to retailer you ordered from . Said keep it. Week later next one cane. The cage was more crushed then the first one. I said WTF is this shit. Keep this shit up the robots are goin to replace you faster and people wont care. Robots wont destroy their shit. Stays in the trunk. 3 times I jus asked for a refund and went to Lowe's and got a better deal and got there 120/240 volt beast of a air compressor. And paralled it my older 26 gallon kobalt, ran them to a T into Lowe's 7 gallon portable air tank and I run my line off the tank. Running 2 compressors in parallel is much cheaper per cfm for airflow and it's highly portable. Price wise you can get two 2.5hp ten gallon compressors for $300 run them to a portablr air tank and roughly have 10cfm at 90. Your entry level 60 gallons make around this and cost more the twice as much and stationary. So it was like blessing it happened. Spent less money,free non botched delivery. And can run my paint guns without having to wait for the air to catch up just have them on two separate breakers. I digress
@Frotax Frotax at work we told the apprentice to fill the engine of a ducato motor home ..... 12 litres later he said hes done...... got in to deliver it to a customer waiting to go to france....... started running away and boom crankcase blew up bent conrods we never did find the 3rd piston... customer was pissed no holiday for you O and your engine has holes in it now .... Apprentice: You said fill it up with oil sorry
Just goes to show how oils have moved on over the years. I'd like to see you do one with castor oil, Castrol R40 was the got o racing oil back in the day and is still used by vintage enthusiasts, apparently it's very good at protecting engines by leaving a coating inside, but this needs cleaning off as i cokes the ring lands. As usual great content and i always look forward to seeing a new video.
I think I actually remember that green tint to the oil that we used to use on the farm that was from a punch can about 40 years ago. Just like Grandpa used to use on the farm. That color isn't from sitting in the can it was actually greenish back then too. That was before the fancy additives were added to oils.
A big "thank you!" to Bobby from Florida for sending the oil to me. He's had the oil in his possession for 35 years and very generously sent it to me for use in this video. Thank you Bobby!!
You realize that if "The Pickers" had ever gotten hold of that oil, it would probably be sold for an ungodly amount of money!
So what did they rate that old oil for in terms of weight?
Bobby🤙🍻🍺
Any clue as to why it was packaged to survive a nuclear attack?
Michael.
My guess is that if ever leaked it would have been trashed by the shipper.
I want to say Project Farm spent way more time than most people can imagine for these testing.
Freezing oil takes 24hr, cook test are 120 mins , wear testing 10 mins, oil race, and running in small engines,
AND he didn't just step away and wait for timers. He took temps of each test and rotate oil pots as the time are running!!!!
Oh yea and sending oil to labs probably also take a few days... After videos is done, there editings... This guy is the true legend
Thank you for your time to make these videos for us!
I agree, thank you so much for making these videos! I can't stop watching them
Yu Huang couldn’t have said it any better!
AND he will reply to this comment when he sees it. Best content creator ever! Seriously a genuine guy
I mean like you cant consider the time while Oil is freezing is work. Its not like he cant do anything else in this time lol.
Damn straight! Whenever I need something shop-related I check to see if he's reviewed it and how it performs against the tested competing items. Saved me plenty of headache since some of the products I was considering ended up being bottom scorers. Never been disappointed by his recommendations and I love how thorough he is in his testing.
I'm an automotive technician and clicked on this video thinking that it was going to be basic clickbait. Wow, I was impressed! Awesome tests!
Thank you!
Beyond1031 None of Todd’s videos are clickbait. Welcome to the high-quality side of UA-cam
Nobody cares if you’re a damn astronaut
Fun fact: -40 is where Fahrenheit and Celsius meet so it was the one temperature where he didn't need to specify which scale he was using.
Thanks for sharing.
Nice. Learning every day
@@veikkokotajarvi9975 no... they're right. I
its -40
He could've been using kelvin...
@@RainytheNB Kelvin does not go into negatives.
Best test in 70 years i tell you
Thank you!!
Test it again after 30 years 😎
@Джейсон Хичкок My dad told me new cars when he was a kid (late 50s) offered oil filters as OPTIONAL equipment. If you sprang for the filter, you could extend your normal 2000 mile oil change to 3000 miles. 50,000 miles on a car was considered very high miles (probably equiv. to 200K today).
The question is whether the oil can be affected by the long storage time. And the metal can is also 70 years old. But is it the same type of metal can that is manufactured today, maybe there are other substances in that can?
@@ateamfan42 At that time it was probably cast iron straight through the whole engine probably also the pistons? and it was not a question of ethanol in gasoline
I love how you jump right into the video with out 2 minutes of “Hey Guys” and then repeat the video title and what its about . Right to it!!
Thank you!
No kidding!... most videos are annoying to seek info
Yes, very much this. I think most people are getting sick of the 'padding' a lot of content creators add and this channel is a refreshing change of pace. Keep up the fantastic work!
The green hue is actually a good thing! It means it is real Pennsylvania Grade Crude oil. It's green because the oil has a low asphalt content. Back when there were lots of conventional oil wells in Pennsylvania, the oil usually had this green hue. It also tended to have the right hydrocarbon lengths to be optimized for lubrication. There wasn't much refining necessary. That's why two major lubricating oil brands, Quaker State and Pennzoil, have their roots in PA. Sunoco also got started with lubricating oil in PA but quickly diversified into fuel oil in other states.
Nowadays, most crude from Pennsylvania is fracked directly out of the Marcellus shale; the green stuff usually migrated out of the Marcellus and into reservoir rocks like limestone. The shale oil is black. But I've seen the green oil, especially a few times where my rig was drilling for gas around old conventional wells. And I'm sure Pennzoil and Quaker State get oil from all over the place, because they're brands, not companies.
Oil can come in all kinds of colors besides black.
Thanks for the feedback.
That's interesting to know ! Thanks for the info !
You just schooled everyone in one paragraph 💪🤣
Back in the 60's it was (Edit: generally accepted) common knowledge that PA crude produced the best oils. I used Quaker State in all my vehicles back then.
Used to have the tool that would punch the hole in the can and double as the pour spout. Always kept it in a clean coffee can to keep the dust off.
@@savage22bolt32 Yes my dad has one or two of those in his garage ! Not sure exactly where they're at in the garage but I know he didn't throw them away ! Hes not with us anymore or I'd ask him ! He also used to use Quaker State when I was growing up !
In the 1950s the viscosity and service grade were stamped or inked onto the lid of the can. My father used to fill up the car for the weekend at a friend' s BA (British American) service station. You could also buy "bulk oil" in glass bottles and I was allowed to fill the bottles from oil drums in the cellar.
And the bulk oil sold for ten cents a quart at Gas Giant.
Shout out to whoever sent him the oil! 😀
Looking at the box, he's clearly dealt with UPS shipping things before. I've sent items in wooden crates wrapped in commercial floor protection cardboard and still had UPS damage the items inside then argue that the packaging was not good enough to give me the full insurance claim payment.
It was me :)))
Nah jk
@@tcmtech7515 packed like that and can was still dented in.
Ninja Master Yeah, they must have hit that thing with a sledgehammer to achieve a dent like that:D
The shipper has dealt with UPS and the others before.
United Parcel -Service- Smashers
As someone who works at ups unfortunately I can confirm this
I respect every customers package as if it was my own but they hire some lazy people more often than not
Great point!
That thing is a time capsule. It may have been shipped from the 60’s.
Kudos to the person who sent the oil, I absolutely loved this one.
YES....thank you whoever sent that oil. 👍
whoever sent this to you is a star! they seem to have gone through the effort of making that awesome box!
"Is Oil Good After 70 Years?"
Yes, it tastes fine.
Steve1989 intensifies
I wonder how whale oil would fare, if you could find any.
Lol!
@@rcnelson interesting idea.
LMAO reminds me of VGG!
"I'd say this is the best protected oil I've ever seen"
USA: Try me.
Unappreciated comment ☝️
Gotta say this comment aged like milk
The reason you saw no weight grade on the can was the rust. They marked the top of the can. Back in the day of single weight oils you ran 10s and 20s in the winter and 30s and 40s summer based on your operation zone. If it was a detergent oil or nondetergent it was on the top too. Can sides were universal labeling with only the top being the varying label component.
Thanks for the feedback.
@@ProjectFarmfeedback? 😂
@@C-B2003 automated message
I've been wrenching for 50+ years and had almost forgotten that motor oil was green at one time! Great video,thanks.
You are welcome!
Makes me feel better about using oil that's been sitting on my shelf for a year
Great point!
You have to put it in a metal box if you store it a year lol
Aaron Woodwell agreed. I’ve always felt that oil, especially synthetic, if stored at room temp in a sealed container will last for a long time.
Oil changes are a money hungry scam. Whether you do or don't believe me, my dad has a box truck with 170k miles when he got rid of it. It still had the original oil when he got rid of it. It's still on the road today.
Karl Hopkins I smell cap
UA-cam: Want to know if Oil is still good after 70years?
Me: I don't know anything about Oil, and I'm about to sleep... but YES!!
Thank you! Hope you enjoyed the video
M B Biden is nearly 80 and doesn’t even know what he is saying so that leaves trump again in 2020
Let's find a light inside our universe now
@butchtropic you know what, you make a good case.
@butchtropic Only 4 more years of Trump and then you have to find someone else to blame your short comings on.
So that’s your take on old oil, but what are your thoughts on Ancient Grease?
Haha I laughed
excellent.
Good joke Dad.
Son of a -
Brilliant. Well done.
Great video. My dad used Quaker State oil for his car in the 50’s and 60’s. I still remember the cans and the green hue to the oil.
Thank you!
When you opened that oil can I was waiting to see if you had the old fashioned opener that slid in and opened it with the built in pour neck made into it, made of metal. I guess I'm telling my age now. GOOD JOB of testing, I watch almost ALL of your videos and appreciate the NON BIASED results no matter the name brand. It's good to know that their are still some AMERICANS out there that CAN'T be bought by corporate money. STAY JUST LIKE YOU ARE.
Telling your age ? ? ? SHOOT , I , HAVE ONE ! ! ! !
Nobody:
My recommended:”is oil good after 70 years”
Well shit I’m tired and bored so let’s find out
lol. Thank you!
*I don't need sleep, I need answer*
Should be going to bed but here I am in the same boat as you
The can wasnt cushioned top and bottom though, only the sides of the inside box with the corrugated filler
@@samsonn25
Paper can with metal ends, standard in the 50's.
The sound of opening that can brought back so many memories..........
Agree! I'm showing my age. Oil was packaged like this when I was growing up.
@@ProjectFarm - Same here. Getting strong enough to stab a spout into the top of the can was almost like a rite of passage.
@@ProjectFarm I remember jabbing a screw driver through the top if a church key wasn't handy lol back when a can/bottle opener was in every toolbox. I'm not telling my age though lol.
Hell, you'd use your beer can oppener to open your oil then open a cold PBR.
Yes, it always driped a drop to the side of the can on those colunm monted perforators...
Another, great video, thank you, great job, now I know why a 63 Chevy, I bought off an uncle, back in the late 70s was so full of sludge, he used, quaker state, oil, many people, used to complain, how bad, that oil was, years ago, so I never used it, they were right!
Thanks and you are welcome! Thanks for the feedback.
I love this new freezer so much it's insane
Thank you! Very nice of a friend to loan it to me.
Great VID! In my man cave is a can of old Pensoil. Probably from the 60's. Love your channel!
Thanks so much! Thanks for sharing.
@Lbolting005 Don’t be a dipshit
@Lbolting005 Why do you doubt he has a fucking old can of oil? And if you manage to fuck up spelling "your mama" you are automatically legally unable to insult anyone.
@@Misha-dr9rh where is this Lbolting005 dude? Did he run away like a biach?? LOL.
@@TheWindows72306 Yes, he did.
I just discovered your channel last night and watched about 3 videos.. and am here again the night after. I'm really enjoying them. Good work.
Thank you very much!
The lawn mower is a huge part of this channel, it has been used for soooo many proejcts
Thanks for watching!
Most interesting experiment ever i watched. Thanks for your labour !
Glad you enjoyed it!
My thoughts exactly 👏👏👏👏 Great UA-cam channel 😉😉😉👍👍👍
Aslan yegen
The left burner wasn’t on high but at least I know I love this channel and how there is no swearing just information for your brain
“Alright lawnmower I got you some new oil”
Lawnmower: 😌
“It’s 1950’s oil”
Lawnmower: 😞
Bruh moment
Ryan Perkins I can fill you wip real billionaire ship
DrumtotheBass Woop this comment makes me sad
This oil is designed for antique motors with no oil filters. My 1926 dodge has a manufacture recommended oil change at 500 miles. In these engines you do not want any detergents or dispersants as they will not be filtered out.
I would bet that this oil is better for my car than any modern oil.
My old 1956 Chevy Pickup, 6 cylinder, came from the factory with no oil filter. I bought it 2d hand in 1970. :)
If someone was smart enough to pay extra for a filter for the Chevy it was a bypass type that clamped to the intake manifold with oil lines going to the pressure and return ports. Sometime in the 60s you could no longer get good elements. Then you needed to install a Frantz oil cleaner. Frantz Also made an adapter so you could use toilet paper in the stock housings. Then you could give the finger to the oil change racket.
@ If that oil was from 1920 it would be 100 years old.
@@jimdrich1967 My Studebaker Lark was also made without an oil filter. It lasted a very long time.
Another amazing production analysis. I remember seeing that green Quaker State vintage mid 1960's! It was greenish and did have an SAE rating at the time. There were Detergent and non detergent types. I recall non detergent was recommended for older engines so as not to dissolve or stir up to many engine deposits, I recon!
Thanks for the feedback.
That is still sound advice. Using detergent in an old engine that may not have had regular oil changes can be disastrous.
As I remember SA oil had no detergent but also no antiwear additive, SB oil had antiwear but no detergent, SC oil had both.
@@davidpowell3347 Like everything else, lubrication has come a really long way, thank goodness!
I worked at FedEx for 10 years... I've never seen anything shipped with that much protection lol
lol. Yes, very impressive protection!!
bomb proof packaging!
@Dan
Where were you with your great advice last weekend.....
@@itsfree2639
he was clearing his annual leaves of this year in Jamaica of course amigo!
Tires and lubricants are some things that have undeniably improved since the 1950s
Thank you for the feedback
how bout gaskets and seals?
BROWNWRENCH BROWN Everything has improved except for complexity, which is a normal trade off.
Mrs. Beast haha yeah i tried getting a pair of the cheapest tires once and one was out of round. although they're not too bad for the price if you return or claim warranty on defective tires as soon as possible
and engine blocks… I mean... stock... leme say that again, STOCK block and rotating assembly 5.3 making over 1100hp... no special high-nickle Mexican block with black voodoo infused pistons... STOCK from GM... making and HOLDING well over 1,000hp
fyi: I do not endorse LS motors... personally I hate em, but damn what a claim
“Is oil good after 70 years?”
Well damn it’s been in the ground for thousands of years before that so I god damn hope so
try millions
The oil you put in your car is refined oil it’s not the same thing they put in the ground idiot
@@iamasmurf1122 Who put it in the ground?
They put in in the ocean
@@Mickparrysstepdad I did
Fascinating. I'm not much of a petrol head, but I do find old tech interesting, particularly when compared to similar modern tech. You also have a interesting array of tools and expertise. I've warched a few of your other videos, but this is the one to get me to subscribe.
Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Just for one video he waited for 70yrs
Great work man🔥
Thanks! lol
Last time I was this early, that oil was still being refined.
lol. Good one!
I hope you sent Bobby his aluminum box back with the empty can , those guy's collect oil cans . Thank you for the videos,your honesty is highly appreciated .Truth is a powerful weapon against evil.
Thank you for the feedback. Yes, I did send back the oil can and greatly appreciate Bobby providing the oil. He's had that can of oil for 35 years!
When you opened that old can, a flood of memories came back with that green color. All oil came in paper cans with metal tops
Thanks for sharing.
one of the few channels always worth watching on YT.
Thanks for watching!
Well I’m drunk again on the motor oil testing side of UA-cam.. not again.
lol
@@uknwarrior7980 currently finding myself in this situation right now lol.
Same
Drunk again as well.. Will be heading to pornhub when I'm done with this ....... 👍🏼👍🏼
@@jdirt1982 going to do the same
I am continually impressed by the detail and professionalism of your videos.
Thanks so much!
Not everything that was made in the past was better ;) Engine oil evolved a lot since the 50s (and engines too). That was a fun video to watch! Thanks to Bobby and thanks to Project Farm. Your tests are super useful and interesting (and had influenced my buying habits)
Thanks!
could be, but are they better. maybe for modern engines. but the engines from back then runned fine on those oils. maybe even better. as you see there was lead in it. and thats one hell of a good thing. maybe not for humans but sure for the engine. so we shouldnt feel superior to what they did back then. maybe we should more appreciate what they did back then without those dumb computers we have nowadays.
Dealing with vacuum tubes, alkaline batteries, polyester radials, oxidized rubber or whatever made everything sticky and brittle, plastics suitable for milk jugs being used as cogs, car engines that needed constant maintenance to make it to the ripe old age of 75k miles before it turned to rust… I will gladly accept the modern.
I think we've reached a peak because it seems that the cars in the 90s early 2000s were much better made than anything in 2020+
@@jd646Turbodiesel cars without tight emission regulations have indeed been the peak of car reliability. Some Electric cars are also low maintenance, we'll see how that develops in the future.
It never occurred to me that “Quaker State” referred to Pennsylvania 🤦🏻♀️
Was a waxy oil,. Pennsylvania had the first oil wells
Me neither, now I feel stupid.
bruh, where you think the oatmeal comes from?
Where do you think the name Pennzoil come from?
PA oil made JD Rockefeller rich. A lot of history in that state.
@@laserfalcon I found out long before the internet how bad Pennsylvania motor oils were for gunking up engines. Torn enough engines down over time to see for myself which oils were good and back then Quaker State was one of the worst with Pennzoil a close second. Modern oils are a lot different and I'm not tearing engines down much anymore so these brands may be good now but I still won't use them.
This was amazing. Thanks to the the person who donated the oil!
Thank you
When i was a kid, someone gave me a bunch of vintage oil.
After using it in my ignorance, a cold front moved in and after about 20 minutes on the road, my oil filter exploded, draining every drop from the motor.
My first car was savagely tested on but i learned a lot from my mistakes.
This video was nostalgic for me, thank you Mr. Farm :)
Thanks for the video, very good analysis. My dad had so many cans of that in our garage in the 60s. No wonder he was always chasing the oil!
How to know if oil is still good
Step 1: Wait for it to rain
Step 2: Cover yourself in oil
Step 3: if you fly, oil good. If not, oil trash
This comment is underrated
Agreed. Please be sure to check about a permit. Some local municipalities have ordinances on, “Altitude and distance of test.” Stick to 0w maybe a 5w at first then once you have it down, start pushing that 10w and so on. Good luck...
oil floats on water
Haha...
Good wan
when you said 70 years old I was thinking like 1930s when you said 1950 i was like dang im getting old.
Lol
Yup
Same here. Sigh.
Jon Mantooth I miss the 2000s simply for how simple it was to convert years backwards. We’ll be old and crabby without anything to show for it soon!
I remember when I realized that someone born at the end of WWII was 18 when I was born. Now, eighteen years ago doesn't even get me back to the last century.
I seem to remember my grandmother telling me "way back when", during the 40's and 50's, you had to change your oil every 1000 miles. Now I see why.
Great point!
Not all cars then even had oil filters. Now you can see why even more clearly...
I suspect coked up ring packs was the order of the day!
@@101Volts or air cleaner filter lol..
@Discofelsi Sounds like the perfect project car for a PF video.
Todd, I am a recent subscribed member and love your show! I came across a problem that that everyone will likely come across when it comes to refrigerators and AC units for cars and home. I was given a Maytag refrigerator for free and it was only 4 yrs old and it looks like new. I took it on as a project and it clearly was low on refrigerant. I installed a piercing valve and I refilled it and it worked perfect for two months and then it stopped cooling. I refilled it with Freon R134A and sure enough it worked great again but required to be refilled twice the first to weeks. I took apart the unit and exposed all the components and filled according to instructions a liquid dye and bought a Freon sniffing tool and after three weeks i absolutely could not find the leak so i knew i had a micro leak that was likely under the insulation in the frig box. So instead of destroying the frig I bought a product on line called supercool sealer made in the USA. Due to sketchy info on the direction on the package I had to call the people that sold this product to determine the proper amount of sealer required for a home refrigerator and they said it was equal to a quarter ton refrigeration unit. I started the project May 22- 2022 and placed the sealer in the unit and kept a steady log. Its now been two full months and i had to fill the unit twice in the first two weeks and since then the leak seems to have slowed down but hasn't stopped yet and i am getting to critical level on the intake compressor pressure.
My question to you, is there a way to test this product and others to prove if they really work or not and which one really is good ? I think we all can benefit from this.
Thanks for the suggestion.
“That’s a lot of vapor” sounds like Phil swift “that’s a lot of damage”
Link?
I feel like he says that on purpose xD
new meme alert quick someone get a vape video
@@MathewPanicker1010 yeah quite awhile ago when he first said "thats alot of damage!" on his video I mentioned it saying it was hilarious and he liked the comment and hes been doing it ever since :)
How about some more!
Our extended family kept our cars for many years. I remember it being a rare thing for an engine to make it to 100k before something blew up. Now.. it's not uncommon to see an engine hit 300k+ and it still run like new. My 92 Camry 4 has over 460K and only recently has it started to smoke a bit.
Thank you for the feedback
Hang onto it - you won't get close to that with anything built after 2007. Things are getting worse by the year. Regressing, thanks to automakers trying to save a buck.
@@SmittySmithsonite It's not entirely caused by savings, but rather it is business. Why would you make long lasting engines if you get money when they break?
@@MadEvo606 - That's immoral business. Sign of the times.
My '86 Grand Marquis with the 302 / 5.0 V8 has 267k miles on it - doesn't burn a drop of oil. Runs perfect. All original factory fuel pump, and driveline, too!
Smitty Smithsonite I find myself having to add oil to my 99 Grand Marquis. You’re lucky!
If you do something like this again, I recommend opening the container from the bottom. The empty can is more valuable to an automotive memorabilia collector if the top is in tact. Just a thought...
Thanks for the feedback.
Thanks for the test! I'm cleaning out the garage and I still have 3 qts. of 1970s Pennzoil 30 weight I cleared out of my dad's shed 15 years ago.
It's kind of nostalgic, but I may as well recycle it, because I already have way too much nostalgia!
Thanks for sharing.
When I worked at a Service Station in the 1960s. We could always tell when someone used Quaker State from the buildup of sludge around the lifters and rockers. After this test now I can see why.
Thank you for the feedback
Earl Elwood Same with Pennzoil , lots of sludge and grit / ash as operating temps increased.
I older cars that used that had used Quaker State 10 or 15 years. The oil would turn to sludge. I would spoon it out around the lifters and push rods. I would add one quart of transmission fluid in place of a quart of oil to the new oil and run it thirty minutes. Gunk would roll out when I drained it. I would keep doing that after every oil change. After about eight or so oil changes not much sludge would come out. I would use an engine flush next few oil changes. The engines got better in the first 20 k miles I owned them haha. Sound better and ran better. Some would have so much gunk could only add five quarts instead of six. I had to pull a oil pan and pump off of a Chevy 250 straight six. It clogged first time after trans fluid.
0:28 How to make sure your package won’t get destroyed by the eBay Global Shipping Program
Lmao
Imagine the sheer PAIN from one of those guys who kick packages
Imagine still using ebay in 2021
@@newyorkyankees81 simp
@@mmbb1561 imagine not using it boy wtf door handles cost 1/4 the price of Autozone ones💀
This helps explain why the cars my friends and I could buy in our teens were always so sludged up. In the mid 60s, the cars we could afford were all 10 or more years old and you could scoop the sludge out of the heads with a spoon. So much so, that we could buy smokers that only needed the return holes in the head cleaned out. Thanks.
It’s hilarious, the description on the back of the bottle could’ve came off one today and wouldn’t look out of place. Always fun to see how that goes
If I remember correctly when I was a kid I worked at a service station that did Quaker State oil the green band on the top was non-detergent the red band on the top was a detergent oil
Truth !!! I worked as a gas jockey after school in the late Fifties and also seem to remember the same thing. If that can top wasn't so rusty you could probably see the viscosity rating, too. By the looks of the oil it was probably a straight 30 or 40 weight. As the guy down below notes, it's probably from the Forties because multigrades weren't yet made then.
You are correct. My grandfather sold QS at his station and I poured a lot into vehicles when I was 12 years to 18 years old. You nailed it.
Anyone expecting "Nice hiss", "Let's get this out onto a tray"?
Steve would've drank that 70yr old oil, no questions asked, and enjoyed it!
Looks fine, smells fine.
@@GTiR23 especially if it came with cigarettes from the era
SeventyV Nice
I like how everyone who likes his channel also likes this guys channel lol
Just add a few capfuls of Marvel Mystery Oil to the old oil and retest.
Nothing like a little MMO!
Can old motor oil be brought up to modern standards with over the counter products?
@@fred_e NO !!
@@SlikLizrd aight
You spent a lot of time on this. Thanks for sharing.
You are welcome!
The winner is... The 70 year old oil can. (not the oil, just the can.)
Lol
When I was working in a Standard Station a regional rep said the can is what cost the money. If you put it in a plain can no one would buy it.
Seriously though, probably right. The plastic container would have disintegrated long ago.
Yes. It can.
Hey plastic lasts forever, new jugs will last much longer
I remember selling those cans of Quaker State and Wolfs Head. When it was very cold you could not pour it from the can with just a church key hole in it. You had to have the full spout and then wait 5 minutes . And to think people added STP to this stuff. Engines had bigger oil lines but bearing clearances are essentially the same. Those were the days when an average engine life was about 100K before a rebuilt was needed. Now a well designed engine can last 300k+ and never have the crankcase split. Even the incredibly more complex valve trains hold up amazingly well. It appears the newer oils are responsible for at least part of this longevity. Thanks for the video and the trip down memory lane.
Wow! Thank you for sharing the memories!!
A Japanese engine might last 300k. You'd be lucky to have a German one last that long :D
@@BlatentlyFakeName I was unaware that the Germans had fallen behind so badly. That's really a shame.
It is indeed the new type oil.
The newer oils,especially the synthetics,don't change their viscosity as much over temperature swings as did the old oils,synthetics allow multi viscosity performance without the damaging additives that were used to make the old multi-vis oils.
This is one of the best quality content producing channel :) I aspire to be like you.
Thank you!
I can remember when a friend of mine worked in a full service gas station, when you would add oil to a cars engine, that ws back in the mid 70's. You're video's are always informative.
Thank you!
Looks like a barely refined crude oil - a lot of crude straight out of the ground has that greenish almost fluorescent tinge to it..
Stuff seeps from my driveway, only in the summer.. I wonder if I should investigate :/
Thank you for the feedback!
@@DarkLinkAD Is it an asphalt driveway.
The Moly makes the oil green. Like the one Farm tested 5w30 Schaeffer. Butthis one hadn't accordingto blackstone ... Ah 😲
Yup... Pa crude right out of the ground makes a fine fence post preservative, every now and then you find a drum in the woods with old posts in it. Also it is really nice for finishing wood furniture....it gives the wood a nice glow. oddly, it doesn't stink once it ages awhile. They still sell cans of Pa crude for wood finishing.
I remember the mid 1960's when all the older kids had STP stickers on their old 1950's cars. I once took the valve covers off a 58 pontiac and filled a 1 gallon can with the sludge out of the valve covers! Yeah, the good old days.
@L F Don't strain your brain
Worked in a full service Standard Station in the early 60s. It was common to remove the drain plug and nothing came out. Push a screw driver on and a couple of quarts came out. The boss would say put some kerosene in and let it run. Probably made things worse. When you overhauled an engine you spent more time cleaning the engine than anything. My uncle went to a Shell station for their multi Grade oil change. He said it always uses a quart of oil then doesn't use any more until the next oil change. I realize now that about 1qt evaporated.
Pensoil (however) was notorious for running up an engine. The old guys used to say if you had an oil leak,run pensoil for 1 change and it would stop the leak! Would be instantly obvious that an engine was a a pensoil engie as soon as you took a valve cover off.
@@ralphwood5114 As a kid I remember seeing black sludge caked around rockers. I wonder how those old engines would have held up with modern oil.
STP = stay together please😁
and that's, why we used to in the old days, warm an engine much longer before putting it under load because engine oil sat in the crankcase for much longer than it does now.
And carburettors being really bad for fuel metering on a cold engine with their crude choke mechanisms.
The amount of effort you put into this video is mind-blowing
Thanks!
Keep the 2019 oil and wait for 70 years to do this test again
@Andre McGoo r/woooosh
Would love to see that
70 years later:
Oldman PF: hey...remember that oil we kept from 2019? Do they still hold? We're about to find out
You can do that but the 2019 oil would have nothing to compare to 70 years from now since most if not all cars will be electric (and don't need oil).
@@cgasucks i wouldn't bet my house on the probabilties that in 70 years most cars will be electric . Something tells me that combustion engins will still be arround and not just a few of them
@@cgasucks probably. But electric cars will be outdated.... hydrogen motors is the next future after electric cars.
I remember when oil was green, damn, I must be old.
When I was in High School and poor, I bought Sequoia brand "re-refined" oil. It was thick and green like this and only 59 cents a quart.
@App Store My mother is 91 years old and is on the Internet regularly.
@Andre McGoo you got a horny grandma
@App Store hahahaha ... no man !! my dad 85 uses facebook, wasap, browse, send pictures etc !
The green is zinc, which is actually a good thing. Penn Grade racing oil is one of the few oils you can still buy with significant quantities of zinc added.
I have some old 1940 50's popular science magazines. There was a article in one of the issues where the magazine recommeneded to change your oil every 1000 miles in your car.
So your testing confirms the reason for this recommendation.
Wow! That's a frequent oil change interval
My 37 Studebaker book.says don't drain the oil . change the filter when the.oil looks dirty on the dipstick. Oil filters were optional equipment then.they were far superior to modern full flow filters. They had cotton.elements
Toilet paper filters are superior to cotton. Put a Frantz oil cleaner on a nearly new Chevy Suburban 1963 model with a 292 big six.It used Chevron Delo 100 20 wt. It got a new roll of toilet paper and a new qt of oil about every 2 k. Lost track of it at over 350 k. Before I left California I put a Motor Guard oil cleaner on his Plymouth Fury .
Kendall motor oil has the logo of a hand making the V sign.
That wasn't V for Victory that was 2 as in it cold last 2000 miles, one of the first oils to do so.
Kendall was a reputable oil. Most of us that used toilet paper filters in the 60s didn't drain oil. 2000 miles was about when we changed the toilet paper and added a quart of oil. Started going with a girl that had a 66 VW beetle She was changing the oil every 1500 miles. I think that was recommended. VW saved millions by not putting a filter on the engine.The owner got the shaft.That bull shit stopped when I put a Motor Guard on it. Took several filter changes before big metal stopped showing up in the filter housing. The original Motor Guard filtered from the bottom up. I tilted the filter so the big metal wouldn't gravity back down into the engine. Frantz wanted their filter upside down on a beetle which did the same thing.
Brings back a lot of old memory's with that old Quaker State can. Learn why are new cars last long now it the oil. Thought it was more the metal energy it might be both but I see how different the oil has change. Great video thanks
Thanks and you are welcome!
ProjectFarm: Punctures 70 year old oil can
Me after binge watching SteveMRE1989: Nice hiss
Nice reference.
Alright, let's get this into the lawnmower engine. NICE!
@Patrick Rapan Thats all i smoke now from watching it in Steve's videos. Tried em when they came back out and loved em
The shipping box protected the oil better than the oil would protect an engine!
Thank you for the feedback
The donor apparently has the same OCD as most of us fellow project farm viewers.
I am almost as old as the vintage oil, and just as slow when I'm cold too.
Me too. But I pick up speed going downhill, just like the oil.
@@stewartcaldwell5299 wut u talkin bout
I guess you’re as slow as well when you’re warm @ this age
@@pg41226 yep! That's the only way my women will have it.
Ok boomer
I well remember Green oil, yes it does smell different. Big problem was it is paraffin based oil, along with high evaporation rate, under the valve covers was a gooey waxy mess had to scrape the valve covers and valve springs, rocker arms to adjust the valve clearance. Back then blow by was via a tube down under the car, air rushing by caused a vacuum and drew out the fumes.
THANKS FOR YOUR TESTING !!!
You are welcome!
I love and notice the time and energy you put into these videos, you are refreshing & brilliant to watch. I enjoy your videos more than any 🤙
Thank you so much!
Steve 1989: hmm no hiss
Lets get this out on a tray. Nice
Best laugh l had all day
Lol
Exactly what went through my mind 👍
@@FeitLapp ohyeah!
When I was a kid it was my job to stab the spout into the top of those oil cans for my dad those are some of the greatest memories I have
thanks for sharing
I still have my Dad’s oil spout!
Enjoy your fun comparisons!
A thought...the wear scar test may be skewed in favor the inferior oils.
As the scar gets larger, the bearing surface is larger, thus the psi load is lessened meaning the oil isn’t stressed as much.
A smaller scar may mean a substantially higher load bearing oil in this example as it’s smaller load bearing surface represents a substantially higher psi loading.
Whatcha think?
Those factors are all constant. No difference.
I remember from back in the day that oils contained paraffin. That's where the smoke came from, and the oil test did not show a test for paraffin.
I remember way back then ,when we pulled the valve covers off a high mileage engine that was not maintained properly that it had that paraffin sludge built up from the base of the head to the top of the rocker arms between each one of the rockers and about 1/2 inch thick on the underside of the valve covers.
not to mention their "lubrication package" was LEADED gasoline!
Paraffin is made from petroleum and has a different meaning in Europe.
@@stewartcaldwell5299 what we call kerosene, others call paraffin. Pennsylvania oil has a paraffin base. Texas oil has what is known as an asphalt base. Paraffin oil by nature tends to be less acidic. Of course modern chemistry can be used to modify that I suppose.
There have been no parafin based oils in decades.
@@hotrodray6802 Not sure where you get that. Pretty much all oil obtained from Pennsylvania is paraffin based. This is something I learned as an engineer at GM.
I have some old brake fluid, probably 1980s or 1970s or older. It's red (spilled 1 of 6)
Thanks for sharing.
Props to my man replying even after a year
Congrats on your brake fluid now do yourself a favour and Chuck it away ; brake fluid absorbs moisture and is garbage once opened in about 6 months
@@iamasmurf1122 they are unopened
@@iamasmurf1122 The fillercap on the brakefluid tank in a car has a hole in it, so moisture can get in so how is it not garbage after 6 months of use then?
The wife and I are testing a 70 year-old jar of KY Jelly.
Hahaha 👍
Ouch!
Probably a big improvement
Good ol' Kentucky Jelly!!
How's the viscosity?
This is a phenomenal video. Great job and it really answers the question, if motor oil can last past is shelf life. I know this is an extreme test and you wouldn't want to use vintage oil in todays engines, especially now that Ive seen this video, but it shows Oil can last for a very long time on a shelf, so my 7 year old synthetic oil can remain on my shelf for use when needed!!
Thank you!
Why doesn't this channel have 1 million subs by now sheesh this guy is a genius amongst us all
I'm one of those "drive it until the wheels fall off" guys. Between 1989 and 1995 I drove a single vehicle using 10-40 Pennzoil. Changes in motor oil in that period gave me a 5% boost in gas mileage just in reduced engine friction. Modern motor oils have done a phenomenal job of reducing engine wear.
It was already 65 million years old when they put it in the can.
True:)
@x x Just don't use the internet, it was developed by the same scientific principles which proposed evolution.
@x x you havent evolved yet
@x x I stopped having imaginary friends when I was 4. Sorry bud ant nobody up in that sky
@x x get lost, moron
I remember using that kind of oil in the 60’s, with those kind of cans you had this metal spout that you could push into the can so you didn’t need a funnel. Most of the cars back then seemed to burn oil as there always seemed to be this big blue cloud of smoke coming out of the tail pipe when you started the car. Also we usually did our own oil changes but would just dig a hole under the car/truck and drain the oil into the ground, kind of like returning it to where it came from I guess ;)
Thanks for sharing.
They went to plastic bottles in 86
That race was the most intense and exciting oil race in history.
No wonder getting 100k miles out of an engine was a feat, back then
Thank you for the feedback
Thank god we don't use Carburetor anymore, also engines back then needed new spark plugs at every 30k miles.
@@jackiechan_wtf4041 -Tune-ups consisted of replacing Points, Plugs, Rotor, Condenser... If you had big bucks, Wires and a Cap. Nobody i knew had big bucks back then. If the car needed wires and a cap, we would find better condition ones in the junkyard. Ah, the good old days.
@@jackiechan_wtf4041, I've worked at a few shops, where
the "technicians" didn't now how to work on carburetors.
Couldn't even spell "carburetor." Funny story, when I was
in High School, the English teacher asked us to submit
words, for next week's spelling test. Yes, I did add
"carburetor." And, to this day, every time I think of that
word, I hear it spelled in a Scottish brogue. She was a
Scot. Sounded like Professor Mcgonagall.
steve
Steve Skouson absolutely correct. Most, not all, younger techs would shrivel up and run away over a carb.
Also correct that that most, not all, older techs who know their way around a carb or old school ignition systems can’t comprehend a modern car and don’t want anything to do with it.
I’m guessing with that box they prepared to ship with UPS
Lulz
Thank you for the feedback
Nah fedex. They smashed their own freight box and blamed us. Ruined our pen panel for a mri system.
looks like they still dented it to
@@xIronMikex how much was it worth can always go find a $500 scrap car find one of their trucks at a lower speed. And lock the brakes up. Car in front of you stopped short so you had to. Now you get a chance to use your new MRI machine and make them pay. Hell having access to the machine. You could swap your image with a random persona changing the file name showing you have all kinds of issues. Fed ex is one if the worst delivery companies. It's like they intentionally drop crush and get pissed and take a bat hitting the boxes in the truck one by one.
I ordered a nice air compressor. Firsvobe damaged guy told me if I take it off this lift gate it's been delivered and you have to reschedule and pay for lift gate serivce to return it. Or be asked to take it to retailer you ordered from . Said keep it. Week later next one cane. The cage was more crushed then the first one. I said WTF is this shit. Keep this shit up the robots are goin to replace you faster and people wont care. Robots wont destroy their shit. Stays in the trunk. 3 times I jus asked for a refund and went to Lowe's and got a better deal and got there 120/240 volt beast of a air compressor. And paralled it my older 26 gallon kobalt, ran them to a T into Lowe's 7 gallon portable air tank and I run my line off the tank. Running 2 compressors in parallel is much cheaper per cfm for airflow and it's highly portable. Price wise you can get two 2.5hp ten gallon compressors for $300 run them to a portablr air tank and roughly have 10cfm at 90. Your entry level 60 gallons make around this and cost more the twice as much and stationary. So it was like blessing it happened. Spent less money,free non botched delivery. And can run my paint guns without having to wait for the air to catch up just have them on two separate breakers. I digress
I really like that you read the full product description 👍
Thanks!
I wonder if the shipping company was like, "hol' up" and screened the hell out of the package.
Could you do a video on how an engine performs when the oil level is low vs too much oil.
Thank you for the video idea!
@Frotax Frotax at work we told the apprentice to fill the engine of a ducato motor home ..... 12 litres later he said hes done...... got in to deliver it to a customer waiting to go to france....... started running away and boom crankcase blew up bent conrods we never did find the 3rd piston... customer was pissed no holiday for you O and your engine has holes in it now ....
Apprentice: You said fill it up with oil sorry
Why
Just goes to show how oils have moved on over the years. I'd like to see you do one with castor oil, Castrol R40 was the got o racing oil back in the day and is still used by vintage enthusiasts, apparently it's very good at protecting engines by leaving a coating inside, but this needs cleaning off as i cokes the ring lands. As usual great content and i always look forward to seeing a new video.
Thank you for the feedback
I think I actually remember that green tint to the oil that we used to use on the farm that was from a punch can about 40 years ago. Just like Grandpa used to use on the farm. That color isn't from sitting in the can it was actually greenish back then too. That was before the fancy additives were added to oils.
Thanks for sharing.