You are an amazing person. I’m building my dad a Dale Earnhardt Bass Pro car and the decals were disintegrating. The glosscote works perfectly so far. Thank you for the tip!
I had old finnair DC-10-30 Decals from a Heller set that was from the 80s. The decals were super yellow. Now they have been in the sun behind a glass the whole afternoon and they are already looking great thank you for the advice!
Well, you can skip the step of putting them in the sun when you apply the lacquer coat, or you can put them in the sun for a few days before applying the gloss lacquer anyway.
What a life saver! I am assembling some of my old models which I purchased in the 2000. The decals just crumble after soaked in the water. I can't wait to test out. Btw, is it Mr. Hobby H-30 that in the video? The packaging of the bottle look different in my region.
@@StyreneModelersHaven Thank you. One more question, is UV lamp also worked? Since watched your video I have kind of checked with other videos and understood it is the UV in the sun that bleach the yellow parts. Just wondering have you tried with UV lamp because I am thinking to buy a desktop UV lamp (kind of rainy of where I am).
It's always good to test first as the decal solvents does have to work through the lacquer. Usually there is no issues in my experience. You could also apply the decal solvent under the decal but you would have to work fast to place it.
Usually yes. After applying a gloss coat, you can test using a spare decal if there is one on the sheet on a junk kit. Also you could apply a decal solvent on the model before applying the decal so the decal settles in from the underside and the top. You have to work faster when doing this method since the decal has solvent on both sides, so plan accordingly.
I have old decals falling off. How td I reapply them? I know nothing about models but want to save the old ones I have. Do I need a glue or what? Thanks Rick
If they are not sticking on their own or they fall off after drying, you can brush on a thin coat of clear gloss and then apply to the model. Then gloss over the decals to seal them in.
I typically thin X22 50/50 with mr hobby leveling thinner. The X22 tends to be a little thick from the bottle. Here is a link to the thinner. This thinner works with all tamiya and Mr hobby paint and makes the paint lay down smoother. amzn.to/3wiEeNn
I can confirm using sunlight to remove yellowing. It worked for me on the decal sheet of a 30-year old MPC F2H-2 Banshee.
Awesome, thanks!
I wished I would've ssen this 2 months ago, could've save some money on the Microsol decalfilm. Thank you for sharing!!
You are so welcome!
I so love this video! You have restored my believing I can do some of the older projects in my collection...
I'm so glad I could help in some small way!
Great video. Really like how you keep it to the point.
I appreciate that!
Good tips although the first thing I do is scan the decal sheet at a high resolution so at least I have a backup for printing a replacement.
Good idea!
You are an amazing person. I’m building my dad a Dale Earnhardt Bass Pro car and the decals were disintegrating. The glosscote works perfectly so far. Thank you for the tip!
That is awesome! Real world success story! So glad this helped.
I had old finnair DC-10-30 Decals from a Heller set that was from the 80s. The decals were super yellow. Now they have been in the sun behind a glass the whole afternoon and they are already looking great thank you for the advice!
Very cool!
Absolutely love these tips! I was always told to keep things out of the sunlight. LOL so glad I happened upon your channel today. Subbed! 🤙
You are so welcome!
Well, you can skip the step of putting them in the sun when you apply the lacquer coat, or you can put them in the sun for a few days before applying the gloss lacquer anyway.
Or you can use decal repair. Working well for me so far.
I use Microscale Liquid Decal Film to prevent old decals from possibly cracking during use.
Interesting... You should post a video on that technique!
@@StyreneModelersHaven There already is one: ua-cam.com/video/sN93Jx8qLic/v-deo.html 🙂
Have a 50 year old NOS Gloster Gladiator kit with decals, hope these tips work as there's a lot of decals present.
Hope the tips help as well!
Wow …. You might have saved me a lot of money. I’ll try it out and let you know. Thanks
Glad to help!
Excellent, thanks 👍
Glad you liked it!
Thanks! Maybe there is hope for those 30 years old decals with my Tamiya F1 cars. Subbed!
Thanks for the sub!
I had success with shellac in the past as an overspray and it is methyl alcohol soluble (SLX)
Thanks for sharing!
What a life saver! I am assembling some of my old models which I purchased in the 2000. The decals just crumble after soaked in the water. I can't wait to test out. Btw, is it Mr. Hobby H-30 that in the video? The packaging of the bottle look different in my region.
Any gloss lacquer clear will work.
@@StyreneModelersHaven Thank you. One more question, is UV lamp also worked? Since watched your video I have kind of checked with other videos and understood it is the UV in the sun that bleach the yellow parts. Just wondering have you tried with UV lamp because I am thinking to buy a desktop UV lamp (kind of rainy of where I am).
I have not used a UV light but the concept is the same.
@@StyreneModelersHaven Thank you. Got the UV light, and my old decals are having "sun tan" now.
Also, apply a sealant to the model afterwards to keep the decals from coming off. I use Mod Podge.
Great tip!
@@StyreneModelersHaven I learned it the hard way.
Nice tip 👌
Glad you liked it!
Have you ever tried with Revell lacquer?
I have not tried Revell lacquer but it should work.
Good video.
Question: How well do products like Wathers Solvaset work after this method of decal salvage?
It's always good to test first as the decal solvents does have to work through the lacquer. Usually there is no issues in my experience. You could also apply the decal solvent under the decal but you would have to work fast to place it.
will old decals sink into the surface with a layer of clear over the top?
Usually yes. After applying a gloss coat, you can test using a spare decal if there is one on the sheet on a junk kit. Also you could apply a decal solvent on the model before applying the decal so the decal settles in from the underside and the top. You have to work faster when doing this method since the decal has solvent on both sides, so plan accordingly.
I have old decals falling off. How td I reapply them? I know nothing about models but want to save the old ones I have. Do I need a glue or what? Thanks Rick
If they are not sticking on their own or they fall off after drying, you can brush on a thin coat of clear gloss and then apply to the model. Then gloss over the decals to seal them in.
@@StyreneModelersHaven as in clear gloss paint? I would mess that up for sure.
How many coats of the x-22 is needed for succes
3-4 coats is what I do.
Can they used with Tamiya Acrylic paint Clear or Rust oleum Clear coat spray paint for Old yellow decal
Yes you can
I have tamiya X-22 available. Should I use it directly or thinned better?. Thanks!!
I typically thin X22 50/50 with mr hobby leveling thinner. The X22 tends to be a little thick from the bottle. Here is a link to the thinner. This thinner works with all tamiya and Mr hobby paint and makes the paint lay down smoother. amzn.to/3wiEeNn
Thanks alot!!👍👍👍