HOW TO PROFESSIONALLY FIT A PLY FLOOR IN YOUR CAMPER. Tips, tricks and hints.
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- Опубліковано 19 вер 2024
- We show you how to professionally fit a hardwood ply floor in your camper and what products to use.
In this video we purchase a 12mm, CNC cut floor and install it into a Transit Custom Camper conversion using methods that can be used in any van conversion
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Due to factors beyond the control of Combe Valley Campers Ltd, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Combe Valley Campers Ltd assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. Combe Valley Campers Ltd recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Combe Valley Campers Ltd, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Combe Valley Campers.
Great videos.
people don’t make the mistake I did, and drill through my spare tyre under the van 🙈
I know someone who drilled through the fuel tank 😂
@@lukebailey3958 Were you "Asking for a mate" 🤔, 😜😜😜
These videos of combe Valley campers are brilliant, every step.of the way.
Ordered my new floor from custom designs and sound proofed insulated and installed the floor, all in a matter of hours! Thanks to you bud. Very pleased with myself !!
This is pretty helpful. I'm planning on building a campervan soon and was more stressed on the floor build. So thank u for this
Good idea re masking tape & marker, thanks will use that when I do my van
I'm converting a Ford Transit Connect and this series of videos is immensely helpful. Thank you. Off to order your recommended insulation and Dodo flooring!
How would you go about if you decided to put wooden batons? Would you glue them on top of the Dodo Mat Duo you have there, or would you glue them on the metal and then stick the mat on top?
Use batons and sound deaden/insulate in-between. Wood itself is an insulation layer
This is exactly the info I was looking for! Great videos by the way.
Great video, would love to know how people are bonding there rock n roll beds to the floor to not drill any holes
You would think that having seen this video, Custom Shop Designs might double check their dimensions and correct the CNC pattern for these boards, but no. I've just spent the morning climbing in and out of my Transit Custom to measure and trim off exactly the same edges (the whole rear section is out by about 20mm width). I did email them before ordering to confirm the van model and year, but received no reply. The ply itself is OK quality. So overall I'd say it's probably a C- for Custom Shop Designs.
No van is exactly the same and the chassis can shift by these dimensions easily, sounds more like a issue with your van rather than Customshop designs. 🤠
Great video (they all are). I’m about to reinstall my pre cut ply floor. Is there any reason not to glue a strip on wood down one of the trenches and then screw the ply to the wood rather than pierce the metal?
came here for this comment
Daniel and Paul, this is a great way to install a floor. Glueing the wood down, then screwing to the wood is perfect
Filling the trenches with anything is not a very good idea. As the condensation that forms under there has no were to go other than the medium you fill the trenches with. Let the air and moisture flow under the floor by keeping the trenches free. Silicone and screw to the high points avoiding brake pipes and spare wheels. And don’t forget to get underneath and trim the screws leaving about 10mm protruding. Then cover with a neat blob of silicone or a light cover of paint to prevent them screws from rotting out especially if you live in a coastal town.leaving trenches free all so allows any spills or water leaks that finds its way under there to run freely and not soak up in the insulation or timber filled trenches and rot the floor. Plus you see the water and know instantly there’s a problem. Just a few pointers you might want to consider. Or and don’t butt the boards together. Leave a 2mm gap to allow for expansion but fill with silicone so you don’t see the gap in your lining. Creaking floors because boards are rubbing against each other are a night mare.
Great vid and page.
Quick question - could you just use a couple of blobs of sikaflex rather than the screws? Given that the ply floor is a tight fit and will have the edging trim on as well?
Thanks.
Screwing down is necessary to keep the plywood from buckling and causing hills/bumps in the finished floor. I used too few screws in a kitchen floor installation, by the next morning their were huge buckles/bubbles in the floor - looked as if something were underneath and trying to push it's way up from beneath the floor in several spots, it required me to cut holes in my brand new sheet vinyl and insert screws to push the plywood back down, and then patch my brand new beautiful linoleum to hide the holes! It was a nightmare, but a lesson learned. A wood subfloor must be securely tide down, at frequent intervals, too few screws in an area and it will buckle!
Some fitters do just stick it down. Ply out any larger gaps first. Good bead of sikaflex on all the ribs etc. Put down ply and put lots of heavy items on floor all over until it goes off. Shouldn’t ripple anymore than screws will. Probably less likely as it’ll be fixed down in more locations.
Great video but are you not concerned with any water/moisture that could get through the screw holes and onto the ply causing it to rot? Would it be better to glue the ply to the floor?
My fears as well did you find ant answers?
Any*
It's just professional conversion places, not their van, they don't give a shit.
Hi Mate
Great videos !
What is the recommended type and length of screw for this ?
That’s to say, are there any possible issues with a screw puncturing something underneath ?
I’m looking at Transit Connect.
Cheers
Kev 👍🏼
Thanks for the vid.
Do you have to screw the floor down, (given that it’s making more holes in the van/ potential for rust etc?) or is it possible / advisable just o lay it in there?
And did you notice much difference between 9mm and 12mm ply? e.g. did 9mm bow/ warp more easily?
Many thanks.
Great information mate 👍
How much clearance is there between the diesel tank and underfloor ?
Great tips
Thank you
Any suggestions on fitting a backdoor threshold/ Trimming the flooring in the doorways? Looking into options for my ford transit now my play floor is cut and ready to fit.
Are you pre drilling the metal once you have gone through the wood, or can you use self tapping screws instead?
Drill right through wood and metal with a 3mm HSS drill bit and use 4.2x19mm self tapping screw.
Don’t use 16mm screws as suggested in this video they won’t work.
Sorry if this is a bit late but I hope it helps.
These videos are very helpful, i am looking at a project to make into a 'radio van'.
I think my question is similar to others, putting a screw into the floor does the wholes need to see be treated from the underside with one of those sray coatings?
Thanks for the great videos
my only criticism is screw length used. this will depend on ply and insulation thickness.
ive used 2mm silent coat, then 6mm dodo mat SE , if going for 12mm ply then 25mm screw
having said that, the video has helped (a numpty like me) plan where to drill ;)
I didn't realise plywood flooring was screwed down into the floor. Does this apply to a VW T6.1? Do the end of the screws come out at the other end under the van or into a closed channel?
Wouldnt self drilling screws have been easier? Ive just got my new floor from custom shop and Im going to use the self cutting screws - geat vid thanks.
Great video, if i didn't want to screw into the floor bed could the ply be stuck down to the dodomat or would i run into problems that way. thanks
Could you leave the Rubber floor mat under the plywood? Thanks for your info.
I'm not fan of the screwing , why not glued ? doesn't the screwing ruined your floor isolation and favour rust forming ??
I'm starting on a 2022 transit f350 and learn a lot from you , nice work !!!
Thats fine my man. We use the bonding method too. When people ask us about the screwing method, which happens quite a bit, we explain that you can pre-drill and treat the holes after if you wish. We've worked on hundreds of vans if all shapes and sizes, and in terms of rusting over time, a dozen or so holes in the floor, are the least of your worries as you are likely cutting more venerable holes in the van like the roof and sides.
You can mastic windows in that hang vertically , a floating floor isn’t going anywhere or mastic battens
No need for screws
After you’ve put your ply floor down do you then have to trim the oem B pillar lower trim panel to get it back on, or do you trim the ply floor to fit? VW T6 SWB.
Loving this channel. We are rebuilding a t5 conversion we bought after finding a number of horrors within. Can I ask please when laying the ply floor how do you deal with the step on the driver side sliding door please? I know the floor goes over this but do you leave the step guard in or remove?
jeez, arent there some wingingpeople on here, expecting all for nothing. Thanks for the videos, there are so many out there; navigating them all is the issue.
Is there a reason for doing the floor before covering the wheel wells? Does it matter which you do first?
you gotta go back to basics/first principals/general method then adapt them to your situation cuz or you'll be asking questions like that the whole build. There's a million ways of doing things and a million choices for what you want to build. Applies to most things in life anyway😊❤
hi when fitting the ply floor do you treat the screws under the van and if so what with thanks
I’m about to do a floor in a t3/t25, however I’m pretty paranoid about hitting the vitals. Is there a resource I can use that will tell me where the fuel lines and brake lines are going?
I have a renault trafic swb and Have fitted sounds deadening and the thermo liner and now trying to screw plywood to floor.. What size of self drilling screws shall I use as struggling to get screw in
So question, did you insulate underneath the floor? great video!
It's the video uploaded right before this one lol
Won't the floor rust where you put the screws in?
Does a 12mm ply floor, 6.8mm DoDo Mat insulation and 2mm vinyl floor (total 20.8mm) leave enough room for a double swivel seat. I was told don't make the floor more than 20mm by one supplier.
Hey! I’ve been doing the same as you in your videos. Dodo mat duo floor insulation and the custom shop designs 12mm ply. I tried 16mm self tapping screws but they didn’t reach the metal! (As the insulation is 6.8mm and the ply is 12mm) what screws shall I use? Or do you know if sikaflex will stick to the dodo mat duo without screws? Thanks for sharing all your knowledge!!
Interested to see the answer to this as I was wondering if you just didn't use the dodomat in this video and the ply is going straight onto the metal. I'd be looking to do the same as Alice and put the dodomat down followed by 12mm ply
That’s easy for you too say 👍😂 great video. Thank you.
Can ypu tell nothing is scripted!!
@@sheri4673 can I invite you to become a patreon member where we would answer all of your questions one on one. Sadly we don't have the time to answer all of the messages we get on all the platforms we use. Leigh
@@CombeValleyCampers I certainly understand your time is valuable, I'll be happy to consider becoming a patreon member so that I can bring questions to you as I go through this build. I'll check out your Patreon page.
Enjoyed the video. Just concerned about rust. I live in the far north and drilling any hole in the exterior of a vehicle is just inviting rust. So I'm gluing mine down. Any comments?
Cheers
Do it the way you find best of course. This is just one solution. There are many more and we shall cover that in more videos
im converting a Mercedes Sprinter and was wondering can you go as low as 5/3mm plywood with the flooring. im putting vinyl over it and just trying to save weight where possible
I have a Vauxhall Combo Tour. Basically its Combo Van with windows manufactured for the European market, but it's used as a WAV in the UK. I need to fit a floor taking into account the valley where wheelchair would go. There are no ridges in the floor like a regular van. Do you have any videos tips or advice for this? I have Dodo hex deadening and thermo liner to be getting on with. Thanks!
Hi Emma, email us info@combevalleycampers.co.uk
Do you have a video where you install an insulated floor rather than just the plywood?
Not yet. We normally just fit a 12mm floor to keep maximum space in a medium size van such as a t5.
Thanks for the great video. I'm about to line my van with dead mat duo and a custom shop design ply. I'm just wondering what to do with the holes left from the previous ply lining in the van floor should I fill them with something to stop corrosion?
The small holes i used rivets because they are rust proof. Now if you have bigger holes then simply use Hammerite rust proof around the holes and then i used some flat bolts and 50mm penny washers and locking nuts. Use a flat bolt and penny washer for the top of the floor and a penny washer and locking nut for underneath. You will need 2 people one top one bottom to tighten them. Then these can simply be covered when you use your insulation. It don't have to be 50mm washers but that's what i used. I hope this helps.
is it overkill to waterproof the plywood, even though i’ll be putting a layer of vinyl overtop?
Been waiting for this video for a while. Very happy to see it posted today! Quick question, did I see some kind of insulation already laid on this van’s floor? If not, would you just drill through the plywood and then say, dead mat duo into the metal base? Trying to figure out if it’s at all worth insulating around a batten first for a T5 or just unroll the dead mat over the entire floor and just lay the ply and drill through all three layers. Cheers!
Hi. In this case we laid dead mat duo on the entire floor first and drilled and screwed through all the layers.
Combe Valley Campers great I’ll do just that. thank you!
Hi. Following your suggestions on the floor insulation with the Dodo Duo. Should I put the ply directly on the insulation, or perhaps use batons? If batons, will I also put something like KingSpan on top? Many thanks! (the van is high, so height is not a consideration)
P.S. Maybe I should put the batons first, before the Duo? Thanks
Hi thanks for the video! I have just taken my old ply lining up and insulated the floor. I was worried because I didnt fill the screw holes from the original ply. I'm hoping it's not a big issue? Thanks in advance!
It'll be fine
Question, is 12mm plywood enough for building all the furniture in the van?
Love the videos. What size screws are u using to fix ply to floor please?
4x16 or 4x20
Just about to follow ur video. Do I use 4mm drill Bit for 4mm screws or 3.5mm bit? Thanks
Might seem a silly question but are you screwing into the metal floor when you do this? (new to this !)
Yeah.... Drill the metal floor of the van, screw the wood down with self tapping screws... I'd be looking out for brake / fuel lines and fuel tank underneath the vehicle
Is there a problem with using the original rubber mat from the van as 'underlay' and then screwing the ply on top? Or will this work well?
Hi, wondering if you did that in the end. I have the factory fit rubber floor too and it's great, but wondering if it's too squishy for using as an underlay? Thanks!
What size screws do you use? M8 x16mm
Great video’s thank you! This van seems to still have the bulkhead mounts in? Have you got a ‘how to remove them video? Or do you recommend leaving them in? Also (sorry!) old ply self tapping holes on the floor, holes from taking the tie down points out etc, how do you cover/seal them before laying you matting? Again, great vids!
Hi Claire if you check out our 'how to fit a double swivel video, then you'll see how we removed the lower part of the bulkhead. Fill in the tie down points with appropriate size bolts, and screw holes in the floor by either having them welded, filling them with fibreglass or an polyurethane sealant. Hope that helps, Leigh
Combe Valley Campers Brilliant, thank you!
Great video. I just wondered when you screw the ply to the metal floor how do you know you're not screwing through something you're not supposed to, like the fuel tank or exhaust or something like that? Thanks.
In most cases, None of the important items are directly beneath the metal. However, if you are unsure, double check before making any holes
@K Dub Self tappers Screws would have to be used.
Thanks for this content. You mentioned for larger/higher vans the floor could be battened and insulated. If I used the dead mat first could I Sikaflex battens on top then add more insulation, using battens to attach ply floor to or would you suggest a different approach?
That sound like a plan to be. Make sure all batons are 100% level though before fastening down and use weight and a level load whilst they in place
What did you do in the end Michelle? I'm looking to use batons too.
What’s the masking tape for on your jigsaw?
Could the plywood floor be done out of a full sheet of plywood ie 10x5, so there is no join in the floor which may show a line with certain types of floor covering.
Yes it can. There are some companies specialising in these large CNC cut floors
When fixing the ply to the van floor, How do you ensure the screws don’t penetrate the floor through to the outside of the van. How thick is the van floor?
When mechanically fixing the floor down with screws they must penetrate through the floor to fix the floor down. Alternatively, you can bond wood to the floor, between the ridges and screw the floor down to this. We go through these methods on our blog here: www.combevalleycampers.co.uk/post/how-to-fit-a-ply-floor-to-your-van
@@CombeValleyCampers So.. you're basically ending up with a ton of screws poking out on the underside of the van. Won't these rust over time?
Over a long time, with out protection, yes they will. However, I have worked on countless camper conversions, with and without screwed down floors, and in reality the arches or other areas will rust way sooner than the dozen screw holes in the floor
Hi, great videos, do you recommend insulation on the floor before the flooring goes down? Thanks Jon.
Yes, we use dodomat dup
Duo
Nice, cheers for that Joe.
Hi. What about vapour barrier? Do you need one between the insulation and ply floor?
Not neccesary.
Great video, what length screws are you using for 12mm Ply floor?
4x16mm or 4x20mm
@@CombeValleyCampers are they wood screws or metal?
Hi guys, love the videos.
I am in the process of planning my transit custom conversion and noticed that the ply is solid. Did you cut a hole for the spare wheel loosening bolt?
Get a transporter
Is there a reason for having the base of your jigsaw covered in masking tape?
so it doesnt scratch the surface youre working on
@@Melonator2456 Hardley going to scratch plywood.
what type of screws do you use for this ?
Why was the floor not insulated first?
Who are you using for the ply wood flooring and do the one piece thanks
You'll find all the info in the video and links in the video description
What do you do about treating the raw exposed metal that the screw hole created ?
You can spray paint, or underseal over them if you wish, however, I've seen and built a lot of vans of all ages, and the dozen screw holes in the floor will be the last things to start rusting, believe me!
@@CombeValleyCampers cool thanks , everything rust where i live , even tools inside the shed. cheers
What’s screws did you use?!
Screwing through the metal floor of the van, thus invalidating the perforation warranty. Is that correct?
Depends if you are building a camper out of a brand new van. Does fitting side windows invalidate the warranty? Does fitting a poptop invalidate the warranty? Does the dealer invalidate the warranty when they fit ply lining and a ply floor to brand new vans? All very valid questions
I think any hole in the van would invalidate the warranty, if there was a corrosion issue as a result of that specific hole. I take your point on windows etc but for a window and pop top there is no alternative. Also they would be sealed. Screws through the floor I doubt are individually sealed. Van lining on the sides I guess will be into the steel frame and not through the body, but if they also screw through the floor then the same issue.
Maybe I’m being overly fussy but it doesn’t seem right to me.
@@shippahoy1797 in order to build a camper from any vehicle, you will need to drill many holes. If you don't want to screw through the floor, you can bond it to the metal. So thats one issue sorted. You'll still have to fit and anchor a bed to the floor, maybe holes for some waste and water pipes, holes for a heater, vent holes for battery and gas bottles. Luckily, you can rust proof holes, paint the bear metal and even waxoyl/digital the chassis. I have pulled apart countless vans, new and old and I can rest assured that 12-24 screw holes will not rust the floor out. Owners lack of cleaning, or just age, will rust a van out way before the floor screw holes will have any effect
Ok I’ll bow to your better judgement and experience.
Interesting, I never thought of drilling straight into the sheet metal with self tappers. You always do this with smaller vans?
I'd always assumed the only way was to use existing mounting points to fix down batten and then fix floor onto that.
Either way is fine Jarret. Its whatever works best for you. And your vehicle
You converting a van too my old mate?!
I have Transit Jumbo, and still I hit my head on the roof.
Anyone used rivets rather than screws?
Wouldn't recommend screwing though the floor, real corrosion tra,p unless you go under and seal every screw hole
I don't like the idea of drilling holes in the van floor. 😱 I'll stick with glue & a composite board. Wont rot, warp. Easy cut with a hand saw. Has great R-value. Why use ply?
Great videos but Gloves when using drills = no.
What would the gloves protect your hands from exactly, while drilling..
@@marchenderson8165entanglement
16mm screws won’t grip! Don’t use 16mm screws!!
Use 4.2x19mm screws to save the hassle!!
That’s great, but most of us will be buying sheets of ply, uncut, so that the hard part of this job you didn’t cover ☹️
I think your video takes for granted a lot of knowledge. Some useful tips here but It is not adequate for the person that has never done this work before. Also, if a person doesn't have the funds to have someone else Computer Cut the shape of the plywood.... then what?
Hi Claude, on the contrary. I get messages every day thanking me for the videos and they they've built a camper because of these videos. Either way, if your not confident to do it then I've tried my best. If you cannot afford a CNC cut version, the alternative is to use the existing panels as templates and make new ones. Hope that helps
"How to professionally fit a ply floor to your van". Stage 1 - get a different company to cnc cut it for you so you dont even have to measure or cut anything! 😂😂😂😂. "Professionally" fitted? A blind man can fit a cnc cut panel!
Disappointing video. Really what I wanted to see was how to cut out your own floor. Not just order in one and screw the thing down 🤦🏻
I’m converting a minivan which has a thick carpet inthe rear. The rear seats I’ve removed 6(2 rows) have left behind the metal anchors the seats clamp onto. I was going to drop a sheet of ply over then and cut out the holes for them to make it all flush then cover with another sheet of ply over it all before covering with a laminate. Is this a good idea?
Sounds good to me
What screws do you use?
Totally depends on the thickness of floor in using.
Combe Valley Campers say 12mm for example. Hey can I also make a recommendation, do a video on fitting the rusty lee full width crash tested and the 3/4 width beds. Nobody has ever done one and you would be the hero of the universe if you did a simple step by step.
@@evildead1949 for a 12mm floor a 16mm length screw would suffice. We will do a rusty lee bed in due course but it wont be for a while, I'm afraid due to the current restrictions. However Lee and I are looking forward to working together on more products for sure
Are they standard screws ? Or self tapping ? And when screws done do you fill the holes with filler ? Keep up awesome work guys 😄