How to Mist Coat New Plaster
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- Опубліковано 26 сер 2024
- In today's video I will be demonstrating how to apply what is known as a "mist coat" to new plaster.
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I've had some pretty angry comments from painters, criticising the tools I've used in this video. The point I'm trying to make in this video is to show that the average DIYer like you and I can prepare new plaster comprehensively with some pretty basic tools. That said, I've taken on board the comments - eg on the type and size of roller, and using a paint skuttle rather than a bucket, and updated the Tool Kit below, accordingly.
The mist coat is a base coat of watered down emulsion paint. It is essential to apply a mist coat because if you just paint standard consistency emulsion on newly plastered walls, the chances are that the paint will peal off, as it won't have a chance to properly sink into the plaster.
Opinions vary on how much you should water down the emulsion - as you'll see from reading the comments feed below - from just 10% water right through to 50% water to paint.
However in my view you should make it as watery as you can, to give the paint the maximum chance of sinking into the plaster - so I go for a ratio of 50:50 paint to water. This also saves you money as the paint you're using for the mist coat goes a lot further!!
Whilst not essential, it's a good idea to use some sort of mechanical mixer to mix the watered down emulsion. I normally use a paint mixer (see link below) but recently bent my mixer whilst mixing plasterboard adhesive, so in this video I've improvised with a mixer attachment from our kitchen food mixer - which works remarkably well!!
MAKE SURE YOUR PLASTER HAS DRIED OUT COMPLETELY before painting on your base coat, and again, make sure the mist coat has completely dried, before applying the final top coat.
Today's Tool Kit*
Since doing this video I've upgraded my kit, and so I really recommend you invest in the following, to make the task of appying your mist coat as easy as possible.
- Cheap contract matt emulsion 10ltrs geni.us/0eo3QFW (Amazon)
- Paint mixer geni.us/Atl8w (Amazon)
- Telescopic roller extension pole geni.us/ETnvvB (Amazon)
- 12 inch Roller Sleeve geni.us/woadn (Amazon)
- 12 inch Roller Frame geni.us/fryEB (Amazon)
- Paint scuttle geni.us/uHNaY (Amazon)
- Paint brush - cut in with a 3inch brush or larger
- 18v Electric screwdriver
* The Amazon links above are affiliate links. It doesn't cost you anything to click on them but I do earn a small commission if you do.
And here's the legal bit I have to state: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
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Charlie DIYte
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Thanks v much- just what I needed to know because there is a huge variation of recommended ratios out there! You're a legend Charlie 👍👍💥
You're welcome Hannah. Here's an updated and slightly better video ua-cam.com/video/jTjlaAU1NzY/v-deo.htmlsi=mBJ4btOBrL_E85UE You need to check the paint allows you to water it down too.
Hi Charlie I have watched loads of your videos and found them really useful but this one I followed to the letter, tools, paint etc and got a fantastic result in both bedrooms Thank you so much.
I'm hitting our recently plasterered master bedroom today with a must coat, just stopped by (again) for a little refresher 👍🏼 cheers again Charlie 🙏🏼
Thanks so much for that. You might like to check out the new update ua-cam.com/video/jTjlaAU1NzY/v-deo.html
Nice one - Here was me trying to buy "mist coat" - couldn't find it anywhere!
haha !! Oh bless you
That is hilarious
I should have watched that before applying the mist coat... I went with the ratio recommended on the tin, which was only 10% water. It did not adhere to the plaster enough, so while it's not exactly flaking off, stick any tape on it and off the whole stack of coats goes...
Great advice, Thanks Charlie. Using a kitchen whisk attachment as a paint stirrer is genius :)
Thanks mate. I've done an update video which you might find a bit more informative ua-cam.com/video/jTjlaAU1NzY/v-deo.html
I found applying the mist one of the most unrewarding and soul destroying coats of paint I’ve ever done - mainly because I did it wrong initially. I think I applied it too thin and this caused me to press too hard and created drips. On later coats I tried to apply less pressure and loaded up the brush more often. But I’m so glad you made these videos because it really helped me with decorating. I went with 50:50 with leyland Matt emulsion and eventually I got it right. Much harder than it looks. Thank you 🙏
50/50 is way too much, im a painter with 38yrs exp with a 10 Litre tub you only really need a cupful basically to the consistency of single cream you don't have to be precise measurements etc, you do not want it as watery as you dare as it will just run especially as you said any pressure from roller will cause this, also you will get tiny air bubbles that can dry leaving a stipple finish, use a heavy to medium pile roller so it holds the mist coat paint, not one of them cheap use & throw rollers that resembles a used kitchen roll as it holds no paint, invest in a good roller, extension pole, i use purdy 12 inch heavy pile & if you wash out & look after it will last a lifetime & make your work so much easier, cost for purdy roller & ext pole around £50 also if you pick up a mini roller i use the Axus heavy pile which you can use to pick up all corners no need for brush, not just much easier but you get a continuous roller finish as opposed to brush marks, heavy pile is fine if you roll back on area & will not leave a heavy orange peel effect as it's absorbed into the plaster, if you want to smooth walls afterwards as it can rough up a bit use a wide taper spatula or wet & dry paper as it will leave silky smooth without leaving scratch marks that can show through final coat, don't wet just use dry , another tip so you don't look like you've been stood under seagulls for a week is don't roll fast as paint will just spin off everywhere especially if doing ceilings , just go slowly & dont apply too much pressure 😉
What a straight forward great video...am about to do what you have just done today,getting a new kitchen,all my walls have been replastered,now it's time to mix my paint and water,such an easy ratio 50/50 instead of people saying 4 parts paint 2 parts water etc etc,thankyou kindly sir,you have give me the confidence,and have earned a new subscriber,all the best from liverpool laa!!
Thanks Andrew, but check out my new updated video, if you have a moment ua-cam.com/video/jTjlaAU1NzY/v-deo.html Can't thank you enough for subscribing 👏👍
@@CharlieDIYte will do mate...thanks once again!!👍
G8 video Charlie im not a tradesman but a D.I.Y and just plastered my bedroom which has come up ok and now need to paint but reading some of the comments about using bigger rollers and trays could finish up costing a small fortune to sit in the shed collecting dust.
Very good video, has helped me get a professional finish in my bathroom.
Thanks for letting me know, Anthony - much appreciated!
@@CharlieDIYte how may coats do you apply please
Thank you! I have many projects on my plate in my plaster wall home. I appreciate the expert guidance.! Well done!
outstanding did 3 rooms not a problem would not have thought about if I did not see this video
That was great - there's a good deal of confusing information on the net so thanks for the clarity . Off to paint my mist coat right now...
No worries. I am planning to do a mist coat on my property and found this video easy to follow. I am planning on getting a paint sprayer though as I have been informed that they can be good. I am planning on using a Apollo HVLP 1200.
Good thinking. I've got to say I haven't used one but I'm guessing once you get the hang of it, it'll make the job incredibly quick.
Are you saying that there is no need for a dedicated plasterboard primer, and I can just use a 50:50 dilution of a cheap paint instead? So I'm being ripped off by the paint manufacturers?
personally as a painter by trade having a 50/50 ratio effects the coverage of the paint contract paints such as super Matt have low vinal content which in turn increases the absorption and it's ability to adhere to new plaster that being said I add 10 percent water and use EB (emulsa bond) which you mix into the base coat and further increase its ability to bond ...... I would also recommend using a larger roller 12 inch min... the single arm roller you are using applies un equal pressure on the sleeve making it harder to apply an even coat :)
Do you recommend 10% water on contract matt. Leyland contract matt recommend s 10% seems really low given that most painters use a 50/50
@@stuartkelly3106 Most painters dont use 50/50..thats half paint half water
@@Lloyd1885 yes. It's easy to get confused with that.. 50/50 jargon.. 👍
Stumbled across your channel, glad I did actually. I'm just about to begin my mist coat for the first time on all walls, and rooms upstairs, invaluable, simple guidance.
Much appreciated!
Hi Ahjaz! Not as glad as I am, that you stumbled across my channel! Thanks for taking the time to comment, and good luck with the painting!
Not only is it extremely difficult to paint straight on to fresh plaster but like you say will peel. 50/50 is what I use also, although I hate painting. I'll do the plastering and normally get someone else to paint!
I've got to say, I hate painting as well :)
Next time Charlie buy the best, Benjamin Moore Aura or the Regal flat these paints now sell in the UK. Can be put on new plaster without a mist coat !!
And cost an absolute fortune in the uk..as opposed to America, the quality is good but it doesn't justify the cost.
Have never done any painting so am starting from zero knowledge. This was very helpful mate. I do however hope you managed to clean and put the whisk back in the kitchen before the wife noticed (I was burnt recently doing the same thing with mixing some plaster for tape and jointing - my wife is eagle eyed!).
Ha, yes I think so from memory! This is a better video though if you have a moment ua-cam.com/video/jTjlaAU1NzY/v-deo.html 👍
A typical method is to primer 2 coats on repaired plaster walls n sealings then coat with two layera of paint will last for many years n best primer to use is KILZ best on the market I will also say that always use bonding adhesive applied by a brush on any holes in walls n ceilings before applying plaster patch.
Old Timer bored now
Thank you! Really helpful. Will use Amazon links and thanks again
Thanks Catherine but watch this one if you can as it's the update and contains important information on what paints can and can't be watered down ua-cam.com/video/jTjlaAU1NzY/v-deo.html 👍
Thanks for making it really straight forward. Love the kitchen mixer....will be doing that one!
Thanks - hopefully if I mix by hand with a manual paint mixer will work
This video is a much better update ua-cam.com/video/jTjlaAU1NzY/v-deo.html
I’m a decorator myself Charlie and Leyland contract Matt is the best stuff out there. Can’t fault it.
Great tip Michael - thanks! Gosforth Handyman says the same - he massively rates the wood primer undercoat for painting MDF goo.gl/2UV2BW - and it's dead cheap.
Charlie DIYte Ronseal primer and undercoat (2 in 1) is really good stuff too. It’s oil based. Leyland one coat oil gloss is good too.
Cheers for that. I'll try and give it a go some time, and let you know how I get on!
Charlie DIYte please do mate, keep up the good work 👍🏻 where you based btw?
great video and tips for mist coating the newly plastered wall. Ive done a 50/50 and looks nice but do I need to apply a second thinned down coat before I apply my final colour paint or do I need to use the white emulsion not thinned down before the final two colour paint coats? I may have applied too much pressure on area as it's leaving patches where paint hasn't adhered as well. Thanks
Hi Charlie Just clicked on this as worried my mist coat is going to peel off - and then I realised I used to work with you at Freshfields! Ha! Funny old world! Thanks for the vid!
Hi Jenny, I'm just scrolling through comments and found this. I'm not sure I ever replied, which was very rude of me! Hope you're keeping well in these strange times we find ourselves in. Lovely to hear from you!
Great stuff thanks a lot, a few useful tips I've never used before. Cheers
Hi, thanks for the video. I've learnt from it!
I always find it odd how aggressive people are on DIY videos. If there are that bothered I wonder why most don't make their own videos?
After the 50/50 mist coat, do I do any more watered down coats before applying the final 2 coats of Dulux? The mist coat will be Dulux trade Matt
Thanks again
I'd water the next coat down but more like 80/20 and the coat after goes on straight
Great video. To the point and informative 🙏
Very helpful, thankyou 👍🏻
Thanks Jim. You might take a look at my update video if you've got a moment ua-cam.com/video/jTjlaAU1NzY/v-deo.html
I enjoy your videos Charlie, I am always tuning in because I think your practical easy going approach to tasks and the delivery is bang on the money...I have learned loads
But as a decorator there are a couple of things I would like to touch on after reading the video blurb..
Tools..ok, we'll leave that, apparently you've had some salty comments from decorators (we are a passionate bunch, but theres no need for rudeness) and addressed them above, so I'll pass tools and equipment by..
The mix...50:50 is half and half (a lot of people get this confused with thinning BY 50% half of the original amount of paint) In my opinion unless you are using the thickest of trade contract emulsion, 50/50 is going to cause problems..especially for the average diyer using retail paint..(which will end up like skimmed milk)
50/50 is 100% water by ratio..
If paint is over-thinned there is a fair chance the binder will be completely broken down and it could leave the surface powdery and underbound..I would aim at around 25-30% water by ratio.
Also, because the paint is thinner is does not mean it will go further on a porous surface..pigment adds volume, think what would happen if you used a gallon of water, it would soak straight in.
Keep up the good work
Where has your twitter and web pages gone btw?
Hi mate, cheers for the positive comments - much appreciated! You raise some very valid points there and sound like someone who knows their stuff and is clearly at the top of their game! The 50/50 ratio has always worked for me - never had any peeling or other adverse results - but I totally take on board what you say and will experiment with a lower ratio when I mist coat my bedroom, and will also be using some much better tools that I've bought at Johnstone's Decorator Centre (love their paint) since making this video.
The Twitter and web pages are still there - just wish I had more time to upload content to them!
@@CharlieDIYte Thanks Charlie...
Johnstones do some decent stuff..reasonable price too, I can understand your ethic behind using the tools you did in the clip, if you'd had rocked up with purdeys, hamiltons, piccaso's and wooster equipment your average once or twice a year decorator would have been put off and maybe belittled..yeah good quality equipment will last, but the DIY wont always see it that way. I always tell people to buy the best they can afford within reason...
Im a brand snob I must admit..I bought a bosch 4inch disc cutter to do some stuff with..used it maybe 6 times for ten minutes in ten years before it was nicked from my garage!
What a mug!..I should have bought an unbranded one for a quarter of the price!!
Id suggest a 9 inch cage and medium/long woven or microfibre pile sleeve for your misting, it looks like you have a knitted pile one there.
I have hit the links on here for your web page and it is saying it cannot find the page, the twitter link is flashing up that the page doesn't exist, the google+ link wont work now anyway as its finished.
@@Lloyd1885 That's it mate - go too profesdional and I'm putting off my main audience but you're point about buying the best you can afford is SPOT ON!! Thanks for pointing out about the links. For some reason I've been using old links to the original channel name 😠 Thanks again!
Links all fixed - massive thanks for pointing that out!!
@@CharlieDIYte No problem..
I teach decorating to DIYers, when I first started doing it I realised that they are unaware of a lot of the basics, even opening a tin of paint properly, what to look for when buying equipment, types of materials etc..one thing I was careful about was not rubbishing cheaper resources because maybe that's all they can afford..I would say 'instead of spending a tenner on 3 brushes (two of which they don't need) I would suggest you think about buying one better quality one because it will last'...A good quality 2 inch instead of a average 3, a 2, and a 1 inch
Its trying to find the balance, avoiding being condescending, or belittling...not easy fella.
Just for balance... I'm a householder with 35 years experience and the bane of my life has been "professional tradesmen" who leave me with poor work to redo. Who do I trust? Someone who lives with his results (like Charlie) or a "professional" who leaves a trail of carnage he never has to look at again? It's a rhetorical question of course but one solid rule is that aggressive tradesmen are the worst.
I'm living with the consequences of that too! I got someone in to plaster my bathroom (not the brilliant Gerard I hasten to add, ua-cam.com/video/Ksc2mghC-4c/v-deo.html, who I discovered after that disaster) and he did a dreadful job that I'm reminded of every time I go into the room - which is doubly frustrating as it's the only job on the bathroom I didn't do myself.. I've had some painters getting really upset about this video. Painters have proved to be the most aggressive critics of my Channel strangely. They do have a point in that the tools I use in this video are a bit basic (paint tray, mixer and roller itself) and I'll be doing a video at some point with a much better set of painting tools that I bought from my local Johnstone's Decorating Centre. However the point is that the finish I achieved with these tools was great, and basic though they are, I've painted several rooms with them and as you and I aren't painting for a living, there's an argument you don't need to get the best tools money can buy.
@@CharlieDIYte Charlie I can't afford exspensive tools I'm glad you shown me and every one else we can mist coat walls with cheaper tools take no notice of them that have a go at you Charlie there jealous cos you no wot your talking about and you no how to do mist walls proply I'm doing my skimmed walls soon with the help of your video x
Our first mistake was starting painting new plaster before watching your video. Basement we used an entire gallon of paint on one long wall and 1/2. Question: we will use mist coat on remainder and possibly the spots that did not cover well. We were hoping to leave the ceiling with just plaster-is that a good idea? Do we need to mist coat what we already painted? Enjoyed your video, very helpful, only sorry we did not watch it prior to just paint on the first wall.
Take a look at my update video. It's a lot more comprehensive. ua-cam.com/video/jTjlaAU1NzY/v-deo.html I think walls you've already painted will not take the mist coat. I guess it depends on whether it's a contract type emulsion or has vinyl in it. You could try but I suspect it will not sink in properly. In a sense it's too late on those bits because the paint will be sitting on top of the plaster rather than having sunk into it. Yes you could leave the ceiling unplastered if that's the look you're going for. I can't see a problem with this except if it's in a room susceptible to moisture.
@@CharlieDIYte Will touch up what we previously painted and do the misting on the remaining walls. Thank you also for the additional video. Would you think the ceiling (having been newly plastered) needs to be misted??
@@barbaraludka9150 Yes, you should mist any newly plastered surface 👍🏻
I love it
Hi Charlie
Have you any good tips on washing painted plasterboard walls? My living is in desperate need of a new coat of paint after a couple of winters of using the wood burner (I live in rural France). I know I need to clean them before painting for the best result, but would really appreciate to hear if there's a method or product on the market to help speed up the process.
And would the same washing instructions apply to a plastered and painted ceiling?
Thanks so much for reading this and for any advice you can give.
Love your videos, by the way!
Simone
Do I have to mix water with dulux damp sealer? Undercoat and primer. I would like to apply this to my plastered ceiling
Thanks very much.
Great video and well explained
We have just opened our emulsion tub and there's loads of brown blobs floating around, what do you do about this? Is the tub ok to use?
I done thin layers so now can use straight from buckle
Do you recommend giving the mist coat a light sanding before applying the topcoat?
You shouldn't need to. This is a better video ua-cam.com/video/jTjlaAU1NzY/v-deo.htmlsi=0TgR33JjEsqZgFZ_ 😉
I find every dip the bucket of paint thickens…
I initially do a 50/50 ratio… but always have to add more water.
You do. This is a more up to date vid ua-cam.com/video/jTjlaAU1NzY/v-deo.htmlsi=lGbWx-PHuUY4f65K
Thanks for that advice 😁👍🏾
You're welcome. I'm doing an update to this right now if you can wait a few days.
@@CharlieDIYte That would be great. We are planning on starting painting the 1st room next week so we look forward to seeing the new tutorial 😁👍🏾
HI, thanks for the hint on painting new plaster - do you have to rub down the plaster before applying watered down paint before starting. ALSO just had a 3' re-plaster of of all the walls on ground floor also re-plastering over new piping covering new central heating pipes, so this area is rough - Any hints would be appreciated
Here's the updated video Ken ua-cam.com/video/jTjlaAU1NzY/v-deo.html No you shouldn't need to sand it prior to mist coating although it might be worth giving that rough area a light sand with 180 or 240 grit sand paper.
Hi mate so if you get full house to mist coat new plaster do you basically do the 50% per cent ratio of water to paint with each tin
Hi. So I did this pretty much as you have but I get this layer of white dust on the surface, it doesn't matter how much I clean or sand the first mist coat this layer of dust remains which creates a barrier between the topcoat and primer layer, which means it just pulls off in sheets. What am i doing wrong?
Would i use a white first? I want to paint my room grey. Is it ok to water down the grey and use that?
Yes as long as it says on the tin you can water it down. Some emulsions can't be thinned. Check out this update vid ua-cam.com/video/jTjlaAU1NzY/v-deo.htmlsi=4lEUm7A8fKbzvc6J It's much better than the original!
How do you mix the water into the paint without the drill mixing tool? Can you mix by hand?
Thank you.
You can, but it's much easier if you have some sort of wisk. Also make sure the paint can be watered down. Some can't, as discussed in this update video ua-cam.com/video/jTjlaAU1NzY/v-deo.html
Very helpful video. Thank-you! Could you also use primer as a mist coat rather than paint? I’m confused if these are interchangeable. We’ll be using farrow and ball top coat but I want to avoid using too much of an expensive product therefore was thinking a mist coat with zinzer primer and X2 coats Farrow and Ball thereafter. Thanks
Great stuff! Thank you
Thanks Mary but this is the vid you want to watch ua-cam.com/video/jTjlaAU1NzY/v-deo.html
@@CharlieDIYte thank you. I'll watch it later. We are going to start painting our new build this week.
I have some slight damp. I had mould treated and then new plaster put on. I want to use damp proofing paint on one layer. Should I use this as a mist layer?
We paint the whole house. Last thing was the inde chimney. We painting it the same way. We discovered there a lot of mapping. How do we fix this please
Yes I hope so. Keep up the good work.
Hi how many mist coats do you need to do before putting on the finish coats
Just the one. There's a much better, updated video here bit.ly/3ilSD3P
Good Vid mate take no notice of No Nutts beneath me talking crap. He thinks no one else needs to know.
Thanks mate!
Thanks for the advice. Fingers crossed I'll get it right. But before I start do I need to sand the plaster all over?
It can help to provide a good key for the paint, but why are you thinking you need to sand it? Has it been painted or is it fresh plaster?
@@CharlieDIYte I was told to. But don't know why as its fresh plaster.
Is it the same principles to paint straight on to unplastered plasterboard. ?
Im planning on using supermatt dulux finish. Should i use that for my mist coat too or can i use the cheap contract matt?
Thanks for a very helpful video.
Can you make up a mist coat with coloured emulsion. Have some left over and wasn’t sure if it had to be plain white.
Yes definitely. Just check the tin to make sure the I've you've got can be watered down as some can't. And only water down contact emulsion - not vinyl.
Does a mist coat need to be applied to a previously wallpapered wall?
The plaster was new before the wallpaper was put up...
Good question. Depends how much adhesive sank into the plaster I guess. Maybe experiment on a small area. If the paint quickly sinks in then I think it would be wise to mist coat.
Hi Charlie. Can I use ready mixed wallpaper paste diluted to use as a size. I've had a ceiling patched and they have used poly filler type finish around the edges to feather out. So I need to size the ceiling prior to using 2000 grade lining paper. I have two tubes of No Nonsense ready mixed I bought to paper the walls with. I have tried Googling but had no luck with any returns on my specific topi.
Hi David. By "size"I assume you mean "seal"? I don't see why not. I would have suggested watered down PVA but I guess wallpaper paste is similar to PVA?
Thankyou I'm 59 yes off age just decorating my flat, I like wallpapering better!! Any tips
Hi Karen, I wish I could help you with wallpaper but I've spent most of my life removing it (the wood chip variety not the lovely stuff you can get now) so I haven't got any tips sadly.
Hi, I am about to fix a glass bath/shower screen to a ceramic tiled plasterboard wall. My question is, i need to to drill into 3 pre-drilled holes in the metal upright that is supplied with the screen , obviously i will mark the tiles through the holes before drilling so, when i have done this do i press the plugs flush with the tiles or tap them through the tiles into the plasterboard before screwing home?
Sorry Charlie, somehow i have posted my above question on the wrong subject page, it was meant to have been inserted on the subject of correct drilling into Ceramic Tiles. However if you or anyone seeing this could answer my query i will be very grateful.
That's a very good question Cliff. Funnily enough, when I did mine (plasterboard or maybe tile backer screwed to studwork) I think I just left the plugs flush with the tile, that way the plug was gaining a bit of compression/strength from the tile and the adhesive behind it. The glass screen sat on the tray and is glued in place with silicone so the plugs didn't need to be particularly strong as there is no cantilever force on them. Unless the plug hits a bit of studwork or the plasterboard adhesive of fixed by dot and dab, you don't really want to tap the plug through the tile because a decent plug (eg Fischer Duopower) derives its strength from buckling up behind the plasterboard, but the likelihood is it would pull back through the tile before this happened - unless you inserted a cut down plug into the tile to stop this happening, and if you're going to do that, it would be better to start with a longer plug in the first place! So I'd be inclined to leave it flush if your screen is like mine. If strength is important, choose a plug that is long enough to poke through the back of (and therefore open up behind) the plasterboard. eg Fischer Duopower 8x40, but you need an 8mm diameter hole for that and really you want to use as small a diameter as possible.
@@CharlieDIYte Many thanks for getting back so promptly your advice and guidance is well appreciated i will be using the Fischer Duopower. Wish me luck.
Thanks.
Great advice though the contract matt gives a chalky finish to walls and this is what the final emulsion coats are being applied to. Always better and more durable to use a watered down version of your final emulsion coat as your base/mist coat. But not the end of the world.
Thanks. I've actually produced an update video which talks about this ua-cam.com/video/jTjlaAU1NzY/v-deo.html The problem is that a lot of emulsions are designed not to be watered down these days (even contract matts) so it's imperative to check the tin, as if you water down one of these it can leave you with a chalky mess.
Was alwzys taught to cut in with brush first and roller after so you dont see the brush strokes but evryone to their own
Is there a certain type of roller head please.
This is a better video that will tell you what you need to know ua-cam.com/video/jTjlaAU1NzY/v-deo.html
Thanks for the great video!
Thanks, but take a look at this one, it's a lot more comprehensive ua-cam.com/video/jTjlaAU1NzY/v-deo.html
How many coats of mist do you think you would need 2/3?
Great vid 👍
Thanks mate. I'll be doing another one at sone point with some slightly sturdier tools (Fat Hog from Johnstone's - having got it in the neck from a few painters over the years) but you get the idea, and if you've only got the odd room to do, these tools are fine.
Video great as usual. Im getting my ceiling peeling in one room (the last room im painting) and this has not been an issue anywhere else in the house. Im having to use this technique but unfortunately as i do more coats (im up to 3) new bits keep cracking/flaking.
Do you think i have a moisture problem? Just wondering why one room would have the problem and the others have all been fine
Thanks. You might take a look at my improved, updated video when you have a moment ua-cam.com/video/jTjlaAU1NzY/v-deo.html I'm unsure what could be causing this. What paint are you using, and does it say on the back of the tin that it can be watered down?
Charlie DIYte ah thanks, will check it out. I’ve been painting over previously painted walls with standard dulux white emulsion. Most ive given a light sand and a wipe down with a damp cloth (then left to dry) unless the condition has been bad and then I’ve done a slight skim where they’ve been bad.
I’ve just found it odd and frustrating that this last ceiling is peeling all over! I should have done one mist coat all over then i expect but then as i say the rest of the house has been fine! Just a little worried about damp or mould at this point though! Thanks
@@DanielS10291 Could it be that previously it wasn't properly sealed with a mist cost prior to painting 🤔
Should use normal paint mix with water mix with water or undercoat mix with water?
Thanks
Contact matt emulsion ideally but check carefully that it is suitable for watering down, because some brands like B&Q/ Screwfix stocked Valspar contract matt is not suitable for watering down.
If you dont have a paddle or whisk (LOL) you can use a fork! Simply bend the prongs in opposite directions to one another (3 and 9 /east to west) , tighten securely into a drill and there you go.
But a paddle is best
This is a much better video 😉 ua-cam.com/video/jTjlaAU1NzY/v-deo.html
@@CharlieDIYte its also good for mash!
Is one miscoat always enough in your experience?
Thanks for your help
Im also wondering this
as a n apprentice trained painter of 45 years in trade 10 % thinning is ample !
+William Taylor That's really interesting. Funnily enough I was also having this conversation today with a painter with similar experience to you. He uses a 50:50 mix like me, but as I said in the video, there are lots of schools of thought on this. My way, I guess you save a bit of money because the paint goes further :)
Out of interest are there any particular reasons why you advocate a 10% mix? The painter I was speaking to today reckons a thinner coat sinks into the plaster better, reducing the chances of the top coat peeling off?
I'm a decorating contractor and William Taylor is right. 10% is ample. Contract emulsion will not peel off of new plaster even if put on neat. The only paints that have a chance of peeling are paints with vinyl in them such as vinyl matt and vinyl silk. The reason being is that contract matt has a better adhesion to plaster than a vinyl paint.
Also those in the trade don't thin out the mist coat very much as you want decent coverage and with a decent mist coat you can see the imperfections in the plaster better. That way you can fill and sand it before applying the top 2 coats
That depends on the quality of the paint, 10% in some 50% in overs...
Thats cos they are trying to get away with two Chris! lol
Hello Charlie, we really need your advice on our newly installed garden room. It had been plastered and we took your advice to mist coat it and then some more coats to follow. We bought the paint you recommended too and it looked great. Since its drying process, we are now noticing little round spots here and there of green mould which will dust off by hand. But we are worried that we didn't leave it long enough to thoroughly dry out... we have now borrowed a humidifier and a heater and have the window open most days. We have alternated the window closed and the humidifer on and other variations. We have a cold roof and no vents except the soffit vents which were standard. Can you help please with this mould situation??? Many thanks in advance.
Sorry to hear about this Ann. Are these spots on the ceiling only? Was the plaster not totally dry then (a very light pink colour), when you mist coated? I wonder if it's because the top coat has vinyl in it which is preventing moisture locked in from getting out? Cold roofs can be a problem if not properly vented (Steve The Roofer) has a great UA-cam channel about this, but I wouldn't have thought you'll be generating enough moisture in there for this to be a problem.
@@CharlieDIYte Hi Charlie. Thank you for your speedy reply. We used Valspar (B&Q's) Express Coat PBW matt emulsion. It said that it was specifically for plastered walls. We did leave it for 6 days after being plastered and there might have been a little bit of darkness to a couple of small places. Could these little areas be causing a lot of spotted mould to the walls? Not much on the ceiling, if at all. We've not put any of our new furnishings in it yet as we don't want them to become damp. Last night, we left heating on and window closed and found that there was hardly any mould spots and no condensation on windows. We're hoping that, in time, the mould will not return. We might have to buy our own dehumidifier and maybe keep heater on more often. We'll check out the guy Steve regarding cold roof ventilation. Thank you again.
Hi Charlie,is is ideal to run a bit of cork down the corners before you apply the mist coat or after the mist coat.
Had to think about that one.. Caulk? Shouldn't need it. If there's any cracks I'd use an acrylic filler like Red Devil, or a hard pack filler for bigger cracks or high traffic spots where the acrylic might not be tough enough.
Do you need to lightly sand the surface of the plaster before mist coat ?
No you don't. Check out my more recent, updated video ua-cam.com/video/jTjlaAU1NzY/v-deo.html
Hi, I have applied a mist coat, then a second coat no cracks in the paint, applied a paint and the next day cracking in the paint around 20% of the area I've painted. what could I have done wrong?
Was that two mist costs Mark? You only need to do one but I'm not entirely sure why it's cracked. Did you allow it to dry completely before over painting with the top coat, and also does the emulsion day you can water it down? Some emulsions can't, which I was surprised to find out, as discussed here bit.ly/3ilSD3P
Would it be advised to do this prior to wallpapering fresh plaster too?
I don't think so, but best to check the instructions that come it.
Hey Charlie, the word "emulsion" leads me to believe the paint is oil based. Should the paint be oil based and thinned or is it water based and thinned? Thanks.
Deanne Chrystal Hi Deanne. It's water based.
Iv done this but the day after it’s chalky/dusty to touch any ideas 💡 why.???
Did it say on the tin that the paint could be watered down? This is something I talk about in this vid bit.ly/3ilSD3P because bizarrely some manufacturers don't design their paint to be watered down.
Hie, can I use and acrylic matt paint to prepare a mist coat?
No, it must have no acrylic or vinyl in it. Here's my update vid ua-cam.com/video/jTjlaAU1NzY/v-deo.html
Hi, got a load of Wickes Vinyl Matt left over. Is it a ok to use this? And if so, does the water/paint ratio change?? Cheers
You're best not to use vinyl matt as a mist cost - see this feed www.mybuilder.com/questions/v/34897/matt-or-vinyl-matt-for-mist-coat
Hi mate. Am I right to assume that a "50/50" mix is whatever amount of Emulsion you put in, followed by the same amount again in Water? Thank you.
Top Coat TV Yes, exactly!
I have accidentally used too little water due to something I read on the internet, in the region of 10% water for some of the corners and edges. Should I just do a 50/50 mix now and go back over those areas?
Maybe try on a small area and see if it works. I'm just not sure if a 50:50 mix will sink in now that the paint has dried.
@@CharlieDIYte Thanks. How could I tell if it has winked in?
Sinked*
Hi, have you ever used watered down PVA? Was told by a plasterer that it will do the same as a must coat but seen alot of people online saying not to do it.
No. It's a nightmare if you get drips and it also defeats the purpose of the mist coat. Pva will sit on top of the plaster where as a thin coat of paint will soak in and seal the pores and give you a good key for the top coats.. 👍🍀
Never pva it will basically act like varnish & seal the walls, would you paint glass ? plus drips dry hard & a nightmare
Good video. 🙂
Is the 50/50 ratio like 2lt paint / 1lt water or is it 2lt paint / 2lt water.
Messimagician83 Equal amounts of each.
Charlie DIYte so what your saying is use 5lt of water with 5lt of paint?
Messimagician83 Yes, that's what I do.
Hi Guys, I have the following problem: the plaster was drying the whole month but we still can see some spots that appear darker then the rest of the wall. The darker spots do not seams to look like wet but rather they appear in places where the plaster is thinner .... it is almost like PVA flashing thought the plaster of if the plaster was overworked in these places (I do not know for sure). We tried to mist coat but the paint is not sinking in where the plaster is darker. We used the cheapest Layland emulsion pain in 50/50 ratio. The only way to cover the problematic spots that I have discovered is to sand down the problematic area and paint it with undiluted paint but I am concerned that this will bubble up with the following coats. Anyone experienced problem like this before ?
I've asked my mate Gerard who did the plastering video and he says that sounds like damp coming through the plaster. Do they seem damp?
@@CharlieDIYte No they are on the 2nd floor quite high on the partition walls where there's only studwork and plasterboard. So no reason for any sort of damp. They are dry to touch but if you wet the plaster with clean water next to the spot it changes colour to dark brown (it is sinking in) if you do the same with the spot water will stay at the surface.
How many eggs is that?
I have an old tub of magnolia. My final coats will be white. Do you think it would be ok to use the magnolia for the mist coat? Thanks
Yes definitely. You'll need two top coats in any event which should hide the most coat more than adequately.
Charlie DIYte great thanks Charlie. You are my favourite DIY channel.
ZlatanFan Cheers mate. I really appreciate that!
Hi. Would you use the matt emulsion white. Even if you wer painting the walls a grey colour?
Thanks for the video! I have a question. On my ceiling, there are patches of plaster that has been ended down. However when I paint over everything with the typical ceiling white painting, the plaster is very noticeable from the rest of the painted wall. is there anything else I can do to blend it all together? thicker paint? multiple coats? I appreciate some guidance
Try some BIN primer mate. 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks :)
Thank you for this.1 mist coat sufficient?
Yes 👍
Hi, might be a daft question but I'm going to be doing this to a newly plastered room tomorrow. Do I have to wipe the surface down beforehand to get rid of any dust?
Cheers, Matt
Not with sand paper! If you have plaster splashes take them down with a scraper and then yes you can brush them to get rid of excess dust, not necessarily though.
Hello Charlie,
I've applied the mist coat on new plaster as directed and it was quiet easy to apply. The mist coat is dry now but when touched, its coming off on hand (not peeling off). is that normal?
Do you mean a slight powdery residue is being left on your hand? Was it contract matt you watered down? If so, should be fine.
@@CharlieDIYte Yes I used contract matt from screwfix. its coming off like dust on my hand. its emulsion for newly plastered paint - the tub says, do not thin this paint - may be that's the reason why? I am not sure if its normal with all mulsions when watered down!
@@Modernsufi Is it Valspar? I've just read the back of a tub that I bought recently and it says do not thin this paint, whereas the Armstead featured in the video says on the back that it must be thinned down before painting on new plaster. Does it completely lift off or does it leave any residue on the wall when you rub it or does the whole lot lift off, and how much wall have you painted?
@@CharlieDIYte Yes its Valsper. It doesnt completely lifts off but leaving a lot of residue if I rub my hand over it. Painted off 1 wall :(
@@CharlieDIYte I want to paint dulux Easycare over it but not sure whether its a good idea or not. Shall I just scrub this off and try another another paint for mist coat before using easycare paint?