informative, accurate, detailed with proper camera placement and no BS flapping. Erics videos should be the model format for people making tutorial videos.
Thank you so much for doing this video! I’ve watched it a zillion times and taken extensive notes. At almost 300K miles, the 2005 Element that I inherited hasn’t never had its valves adjusted (and of course there are more problems than just that). This video gave me the confidence to do the job myself. Having gotten the valve cover off, I’m now wishing (remember- almost 300k miles) that BEFORE I took the cover off, I had taken a toothbrush and rag to clean all around the edges of the valve cover. The amount of road grime that’s built up is ridiculous. With the cover off, it’s very difficult to wipe the grime away without some of it also falling into the engine. Again, brush the grime away BEFORE loosening and removing the valve cover. That will save a lot of time and heartache. Thank you ETCG for this stellar video!!!
Did that engine last these past two years? My guess is that road grime took it on out, microns of dirt hurt your engine, you can barely see a 10 micron speck
@@paulcollins9094My E is still going! The idle is a little rough, so I’m revisiting this video, thinking I’ll pop the cover and make sure everything is still good. Since it was my first time, it’s possible that I didn’t tighten a nut enough and allowed the screw to loosen/tighten on its own. Also, want to make sure the exhaust valves haven’t tightened up too much. Again, noob adjustment, so checking to make sure all is well.
Coming from an old Mercedes mechanic who did more than his share of valve adjustments on 70's & 80's vintage 240D's & 300D's, I have to congratulate you on a top notch instructional video. I recently inherited a 2006 CRV with 61K miles, never had a valve adjustment. With this video to guide me, I expect to be able to perform the job without any problems. Thanks for this exceptionally well done video, Eric... Semper Fi!
Having worked on this over the past week, along with a long and drawn out sludge removal process, I finally understand why Eric suggests doing it this way instead of doing cylinders 1-3-4-2 like Honda does. It's really easy to get confused and do the wrong cylinders, especially when you go from 1 to 3. Last night I started doing #2 instead of #3 and totally got my valves messed up. Well, not exactly messed up but way out of adjustment; I'll have to start over and it won't be fun because they are so far off now on #2. I'm going to do it this time the way he does it in this vid. One other thing of note, both here and on his website he puts the exhaust valve clearance at .010-.013 but the Honda service manual for the 2003-2004 Element says .011-.013. As long as the .013 feeler gauge doesn't go and the .010 does it should be fine though. Thanks again for the video, Eric.
I have done this on my 2003 CR-V. I used a long screwdriver in the spark plug hole to determine TDC. Worked great. This IS the BEST video out there. Super job all around. AND...no darn aggravating music!!
A lot of you guys are stating the same thing he said..."make sure its cold, you don't need valve adjustment tool, etc" Did you guys even watch the video??? Great job EricTheCarGuy!!! Appreciate the information.
Great tutorial Eric! I noticed a bit of valve noise from my '08 TSX and was planning to set the valve clearances (130,000 miles). I now know to remove the valve cover bushings BEFORE I remove the valve cover and loose them in some dark place in the engine bay. Your comment on the exhaust valves being a bit tighter after 120K miles is because the valve stem material "creeps" under higher temperatures and valve spring tension. Intake valve stems are much cooler particularly when the intake and exhaust manifolds are on opposite sides of the cylinder head. In addition, the fuel/air charge also cools the intake valve fillet and seat. So the intake valves clearances increase due to wear on the camshaft lobe, while the creep of the exhaust valve is greater than the contact wear with the cam lobe. Thanks for helping us keep our cars running great!
Thanks Eric. I did this today. As you mentioned, the intake were lose and the exhaust were tight. A bit of a challenge reaching back behind to get the exhaust valves adjusted. Especially for a 67 yr. old guy. So far, engine is running smooth. '03 AWD. I appreciate your help as always.
Thanks for the video. Today was my first time doing this. I changed the gasket, oil seals, and rubber grommets while I was there. Engine feels smoother, less noisy, and has better response. Subtle differences but I have owned my TSX for 10 years so I can tell the difference. I used the shorter angled feeler gauges because its crammed in there. Helps to disconnect the line coming out of the power steering pump (and to the rack) so you can easily remove and reinstall the valve cover. I found it easier to insert the feeler gauges from the side of the feeler gauge instead of going straight with the tip. I used a ratcheting combination wrench on the 19mm bolt of the power steering pulley to turn the engine.
Huge Thanks! Having never done a similar procedure, I just did this on my 2006 Honda Element following this video. The car previously had problems in the cold and would die when idling in drive/reverse and then be difficult to start. Just started the car in below freezing temps and put in Drive and Reverse and engine now has no hesitation or rough idle. Idle and engine are also now smoother when warm. Problem solved! Could not be happier!!! All of the intake valves were very close and only required a slight adjustment on each (some a touch loose, some a touch tight). The exhaust valves were all way too tight just like you explained! All of them required loosening - on some by almost a full 360 degree rotation of the screw, and one on cylinder 2 by even more (was tightened all of the way down with no gap whatsoever).
I have a 2006 Element as well. Did you adjust in order 1234 by moving the cam shaft lob of each cylinder to TDC? Or did you adjust in 1342? Does it matter the order if your all are at TDC on the cam lob?
As old as this video is, here I am. This video allowed me to do this job on my wife’s CR-V with little trouble. Mine isn’t a v-tec head but it’s not much different. I did pull the fuel rail as well to make it easier. The gaps were also slightly different on mine but once I found them, it all clicked. Thanks Eric.
I just did the same adjustment on my S2000. I couldn't get the feel for the right amount of drag at first so I used a go-no-go method. So, if I want a 0.009" gap, I initially tightened that screw to where the feeler gauge wouldn't move, backed it off just a little bit and tightened the locking screw. I checked the drag at 0.009" (expect to feel moderate drag), 0.010" (expect the feeler gauge to be tight/not fit), and 0.008" (expect the feeler gauge to slid in easily and with very little drag). Worked well for me.
just adjusted my valves om my 05 element with 138,000 miles. It fixed an issue where the car stalled when put into drive on a cold start. SO WORTH IT! Also better mileage and throttle response. Great vid (:
The best video I've seen for this job! You don't talk over people's head just to try to sound important or like it's more difficult than it is... Thanks for the great info and video.
Just did this on my 04 CRV a bit over 200k miles and it smoothed the idle out immensely. Used to feel like it was going to die intermittently at stop lights and had a strange lurch when I was in drive while idling. Now it feels like it only has 80k miles and smooth as butter.
Thanks for the video! I used to do this stuff for a living but its been about 10 years since last doing a valve adjustment on a Honda. Found your video to make sure I didn't forget anything and found your tip about turning the engine over from the power steering pump MUCH better than the typical method of doing it at the crank pulley.
You are the only person in the WORLD that says this thing about oil coming up from below through the spark plug tube threads.... I have not been able to find anyone else to corroborate this anywhere. I'm getting ready to take mine apart because there's oil on the coils.... and I'm gonna change the rubber gaskets as every single other person and manual under the sun recommends.
Only thing I have to add is the following. A lot of people always focus on the fact that if you get the valve clearance to tight that you can burn a valve, or if you get to much clearance, the valvetrain will be loud. The part I never see people say is the what can happen with loose valve lash besides just being loud. You have to get those hot exhaust gases out of the cylinder. If valve lash becomes way to loose you can actually heat that cylinder super hot. I have seen this happen on a single cylinder motorcycle with 4 valves. One of the exhaust valves had a decompression release for easier starting. It got out of adjustment and caused excessive valve lash on that one exhaust valve. The engine was ran until it started smoking and burning oil like crazy. We found this loose valve lash and cause on tear down. The one valve was barely opening due to excessive lash and the other exhaust valve was not enough to get rid of the exhaust gases. The engine got so hot that the rings lost temper. We took the rings off the piston and you could twist them and they would not break. So just adding to what can happen with loose valves. This is why it is important to keep them within the spec of the engine.
This is technically true, but i think they would have to be unbelievably loose, i would imagine like 1/8th inch gap for it to affect the timing and escape of exhaust gasses. So much so, that if you can't tell something is too loose, that you wouldn't belong anywhere near an engine.
Out of adjustment valves can cause a misfire. I've had a check engine light for a cylinder one misfire for months. I've done plugs, coils, timing chain, cam and crank position sensors. Misfire still hung around. Finally did a valve adjustment, cyl 3 exhaust valve was way out of spec. Misfire and check light is finally gone. So if you have a Misfire you can't diagnose, check the valves.
Best video I've seen for this procedure. Great camera angles and lighting. Was worried at the beginning with the engine running that you were going to do it with the engine warm. Nice mentioning later that the motor must be stone cold.
I remember watching you when I was in high school around 2009-2010. Now fast forward more than 12 years. I’m back finding the video I’m looking for to do this on my own car, hope you’re doing good Eric ! Always the Honda go to
This is a FANTASTIC video! Thank you very much for this, I am very grateful! I'm about to adjust my valves on my 2004 Element, I got it when it was 205K miles on it, previous owner did absolutely zero maint except very basic oil changes and air filters. Amazingly, this actually was better for it than him half assing the work. Now I'm catching up on the services.
I also have a 2004 Element .. I ordered the 10mm adjustment tool which was helpful except the handle of the screw driver could have been larger and the screw driver blad wider. I have 215,000 on this Element, remarkable how well it has run. I noticed this winter a loud tick in the engine when I started it. I had never had the valves adjusted. My mechanic discouraged against it, claiming it rarely makes any difference. I was able to remove the valve cover and tie off with string all the cable so they wouldn't nterfere. The engine was remarkably clean, not as much Eric's Element, but given that I visit Valvoline every 5000 miles. I used Eric's method of turning the engine by the power steering pulley, the cam lobe pointing up.. It worked fine. I gapped the intake valves at .010 and the exhaust valves at .012. Rechecked all valves and adjusted accordingly. I cleaned the valve cover. thoroughly with Krud Kutter .. Good Stuff. clean the surfaces of the engine block decided to keep the gasket with some Honda Bond at the spots Eric pointed out. I lubed the spark plug pipes and the rubber gasked in the valve cover. It went in smooth and buttoned up everything. Reconnected the battery and started the engine ... very different sound, no loud tic and there was more of an even sound. Let the engine run a while and warm up. Drove it around on town on short errands and listened for any unusual sounds. But the engine ran really smooth, although it didn't to have the same pep. Took it out on the highway today and slowly increased the speed. at 65 it balked for only a second and then the engine came back to life, although the engine light came on. I continued to drive it around at slow speed with no problem. For kicks, when I got home, I diconnected the battery for a moment and then reconnected. I started the engine and the Engine light went out. So that's where i am. No clue as to why the engine balked, which it had never done in 215,00 miles....
I think this isn’t too much for someone who is inexperienced with internal engine management. This can be a great way to start. The only thing that would be hard is for someone to know what to feel for with those feeler gauges. Other than that it’s just pretty straight forward. Very great quality video and informative.
Doing this job 8 years after this video was made. I'm excited for all my seals and gaskets to be brittle and cracked, and too look inside my engine in horror.
20:42 - One of the most relieving sounds when working on a vehicle! I cringe if I don't hear anything when something drops in the engine bay lol. Great video!
Eric, I love you video's. Even though, I'm a mechanic too. I'm not saying that I'm better any any shape or form. I just want to share some input that you should know by now. You mentioned removing that power steering line. That is great advice to people who go that route. The only thing I would recommend (which i'm sure by now you know) that stupid o-ring on that power steering line. That o-ring fails, but doesn't leak. Instead, it causes a loss in power-assist a lot. If it's off, it should just be replaced....cheap insurance! Some of the shoos here (in Commifornia) replace good pumps for no reason. I'm sure you know that by now. It just I got burned once by an o-ring on a p.s. pump. Anyways, thank you for the great video's. We can't know everything.
Going to do this on my 2009 crv, 108,000 miles on it now, you covered everything left me with no questions. You've helped me on other cars also, you do the best vids on these things THANKS!!
Really a fantastic video. Thank you for all the work and dilligence you put into this. Also, you may be the most level-headed and calm mechanic I've ever seen.
Just did this today. I had other instructions including the service manual and they all focus on the marks on the timing chain cogs. Well mine did not have the same marks as the manual so that was pointless. By watching this I was able to see you adjust each one at the top of the stoke above each intake/exhaust set. I also used the power steering pulley to rotate the engine with a 19mm socket which was a great idea. I'm very glad I have the same vehicle as you because I have access to all of your element videos. Never would have though about taking the cover off and doing it myself. Your videos gave me the confidence to do it. With the money I saved I bought a milwaukee 1/4" m12 ratchet for all the fasteners, the jam nut wrench, and a set of angled feeler gauges and still pocketed $100 bucks in labor savings.Thanks again.
Just used this to help me make a customer's 2002 CR-V run like a top, had random misfires on all cylinders with #1 and #3 returning the soonest. As I was adjusting I found 1 and 3 had both valves too tight, adjusted those as well as 2 and 4 poof random misfire gone and car runs great thanks Eric the video was quite helpful.
@@reellifewithcinco7858 it takes a bit of finesse but once you get the feel for it then it's pretty straightforward. Make sure you have a wrench with a 90 degree bend in it and the longer style feeler gauges. Good luck but with good videos like this one you won't need it 👍
very informative instructional video,one thing I do remember when I was in the honda pact program, that they thought us when after making the valve adjustment, was to make sure each one was torqued down properly, I don't know how practical that is in this video scenario but that's just one thing I wanted to point out, great video.
BEFORE: 1:47 ; AFTER - 34:51 ;;; Sound is reproduced in camera/youtube/speakers, but tact time is very smoother... Thanks for detailed and well focused video. Btw this special tool can be easily made by welding item to tube wrench, nice idea.
Great stuff. I gotta say I prefer it when you're doing the camera work. It's more of a genuine one on one tutorial, which I like. I know it takes A LOT more work for you to do this by yourself...but just my 2c. ;)
Eric, Thank you for this video! I have never been much of a mechanic, but thank God for your video. I took it slow and must have watched your video a million times over the past two days but I got my Honda purring again.
Letting you know that I just had this done at 184K. I have been having a "Cold" engine idle issue that resulting it to stall until motor was up to operating temp. ~4-7 minutes. I went to the local service center(Not a dealership) that only works on honda and acura cars and they actually pulled a vacuum on motor and it was too low. So they went to check the valves and the exhaust valves were bottomed out. They adjusted to the specifications you mentioned and so far it runs smoother and we will see in the morning on a cold start. Thanks for the help with this.
Thanks for the video of what it sounds like after your adjustment. My Accord was at 200k miles and pretty sure the valves were never adjusted. The exhaust valve lash was ridiculously tight before I adjusted them. Took almost a 360 turn of the screw on some of them. It is a little noisy now, but it sounds just like yours after your adjustment, so I feel a lot better about it.
Thanks for that, Eric. Just did a valve lash on my '02 Accord 2.3L with 110k miles. I found the same thing you did: tight exhaust valves (esp. cylinders 1 and 2) and very slightly loose intake valves. I was doing it to try to quiet a slight ticking sound you hear on idle. I've been hearing it since 60k miles, but it recently got a little louder. Reminded me a little of a '56 Chevy. After my adjustment, it wasn't any quieter. You gave me confidence by saying it might actually sound louder after you ease up on the exhaust valves, and mine sounds a little quieter than the K series you just worked on. So I guess all is okay. And I guess I'm protecting my exhaust valves from overheating and causing a problem down the road. It just seems these Hondas don't run as quiet as cars with self-adjusting hydraulic lifters. (Maybe it's the injectors like the comment below mine suggests?)
Hey Eric, quick tip for the diy. Instead of getting the special tool you can use a Craftsman Max Axess ratchet and socket (or other brand) with the pass through design. That way you can put your screwdriver through the socket and extension and tighten the locknut while holding the screw in place.
@@smarzig www.ebay.com/itm/203091285094?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=203091285094&targetid=935065067707&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9031626&poi=&campaignid=10876471603&mkgroupid=107964302620&rlsatarget=pla-935065067707&abcId=9300401&merchantid=6296724&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhb36BRCfARIsAKcXh6EqbjjisHEaN6Nky6rpMsfvGYgenx1pHmK6u5m-qO5VS88ajwLFaTEaAo1BEALw_wcB One option on eBay.
Thanks for the video Eric. I did this a few days ago (05 Accord) using your method, not Honda's. On mine, surprisingly, all intake and exhaust were loose except for one exhaust valve on cyl 1 which was just OK. That's the only one I didn't adjust. I set cyl 1 at TDC so its intake and exhaust CAM lobes were on the base circle. With this, cyl 2 intake and cyl 3 exhaust were on their base circles. I adjusted them accordingly. I then set cyl 4 at TDC having both intake and exhaust at base circle. With this, cyl 2 exhaust and cyl 3 intake were on their base circles. I adjusted accordingly. Runs a lot smoother now. Way less vibration. Got power back. Yes, better mileage now too. And way less tapping sound at cold starts. (almost inaudible).
Can't thank you enough for this video man!! Recently bought a 2006 CRV with this engine in it and it helped me get comfortable with it! Thanks a ton for helping me learn!
A good LED shop light attached under the hood helps in seeing those screw slots, and everything else 😉. If you have the time do all except the adjustment and let it cool over night, the cooler that motor is the better. Long zip ties keep the lines and hoses out of the way. No hassling with them. Check and recheck adjustments is good advice for this critical maintenance. Really good advice whenever doing something worth doing. Put spark plugs back in after adjusting valves, will prevent anyhthing from accidentally dropping in plug holes.
Eric, thank you for this video. Just did my valves on my 08 Si and your video was instrumental in helping me. (Using K20 specs) It wasn't until the No. 3 cylinder that I got the "feel" down, but I did them all twice to be sure. Thank you again.
Hey Eric I wanted to thank you for this video. I must report it worked flawless with my vehicle. it not only fixed the majorly ruff idle along with curing the "random missfire" codes it would throw no matter what new coils injectors or plugs I used. maybe title this as being able to fix that random missfire issue Hondas are so sensitive with.
I like the common sense way of doing things, and i am using 1/4 drive especially aluminum alloy. Well I'm a retired mechanic of mainly of oil rig equipment and this is great help just seeing how things are done on this Honda Engine.
This video was so helpful! I have an 04 element that kept idling down and stalling when cold shifting to D or R, and had a bad starter. This video and your starter replacement video helped get it up and running again perfectly! Keep up the awesome videos!
Man this is soooo much like watching like open heart surgery! Awesome video Eric! :) I have an '05 CRV with ~350000 km's - on an untouched timing chain. That is my project for next week, don't know how I made it this far without blowing the engine up.
Eric Great Video thanks for taking the time to show and teach us what is entailed when working on a car in such great detail. Its videos like this that have given me the confidence to tackle on some projects on a Nissan Maxima I own. Have saved lots of money but even better than that is the feeling of being able to trouble shoot and repair my own car. It may take me a little longer but at Least I know I have taken proper procedures with care and not take any shortcuts, as I have experience from poorly trained mechanics or ones that only have $$$ on their mind. One example was many years ago I had a friend who was a trained mechanic rebuilt a Carb in an old Chevy Impala and he installed the gasket backwards because he was rushing. This videos allow me to do my homework and help me perceive the challenges I may encounter, or at least confirm if it is something I need to take to a PRO. Thank you again.
Very nice video. Just want add that the correct exhaust valve clearance of my K20Z2 is 0.28-0.32 mm (according to service manual) and not 0.254-0.330 as pointed in the video.
When reinstalling, if all that hosing had been zip tied back, it would be clear for removal and reinstall. my two cents. great vid, going for box wrench 10mm ❤️
Wow you did a really good job at breaking down what you were doing. Came to this video with no knowledge of fix my valves but after this video, I'm certain I can do this now. Thanks Eric! Looking for for more videos from you.
Eric your method is the best for doing valve adjustment, repair book relies on crank degree position, but that's less accurate than looking at cam lobe position, thank you for so many great videos :)
Thanks for the video. The local Honda dealer wants $400 to adjust the valves on a 2012 CRV. I'm going to do them myself. They look pretty much the same set up as my Gold Wing.
For other people watching, this might help for setting it to .008" try fitting a .009" feeler gauge in, this will help you learn the feel, but also verify your adjustments
I drive a Ford Mustang and when I hit 110,000 I asked the Ford mechanic about adjusting the valves and he said on a ford you don't want to mess with the valves on some brands you do but on fords you don't
Thanks to your video I saved a few hundred dollars and learned a great skill. seems like those exhaust valves really tighten down far. it was actually causing a missfire and very scary stalls.
Yep, Eric is my go-to car guy. I went ahead and bought that '05 Element with 267,000 mi.that I'd sworn not to, wish me luck. I've got it down from 9 faults on the MIR to 2, bought a knock sensor to put in tomorrow for the P0325 fault, but the P0302 (cyl2 misfire) didn't move when I swapped the coils (with new plugs), so I'm doing a compression check and bleed down, then adjusting the valves, running, and testing again tomorrow. Saying appropriate prayers and mystical incantations (not kidding) that I don't need a valve job. I really should get on the forum, since I've committed to this beast, frankly love it. I wonder... If I need a valve job, should I rebuild the bottom, too... What's the oil pressure, what did Eric pay for a used low mi. engine? OMG, please smog for me, I'll never sneer at rice-burner motorcycles again, I swear!
Nice job. I was just Googling mileage to change accord plugs and viewed your videos out of curiosity. You made it very clear even with the complication of recording it.
Thanks so much Eric. I have this engine and replaced the vvt sprocket and didn't adjust the valves so this is exactly what I'm going to do. It has been driving me crazy 😬
I had 06 Acura Tsx with 250,000 miles. It has original engine and original transmission. I never adjust the valve and it was running good, no loud noise on valves when I sold it. Maintenance was always on time. I sold it due to ac issue in last three consecutive years and it turns out it was a mechanic who didn't do a good job, plus it has something to do with parts (Not good Quality) from autozone with lifetime warranty. Lesson learn to buy parts made in Japan
I had a different experience with my Honda Element. I was having issues in cold weather. It was hard to start (sounded like the battery was weak - cranking over slow) and would stall at the first stop sign (after sitting all night). I had a manual transmission, BTW. When stopping, I'd push in the clutch and come to a stop. The RPMs would drop below 1K, then bounce up to 2K, then come back down to typical idle revs. If the stop was within 1-2 miles of a fresh cold start, the RPMs would drop significantly below 1K and the car would stall. Wouldn't happen again until the next day. I ended up performing a valve adjustment in my garage. I found ALL the exhaust valves to be extremely tight (like 0.003 or so, if my memory serves). The intakes were a smidge over the 0.008. Once the adjustment was made all previous cold weather symptoms went away. It started quickly and didn't have the RPM surge... until around 60,000 miles. Then it happened again and the next valve adjustment yielded the same results. Exhaust valves were super tight again. Not sure why, but the adjustment fixed the issues again. My poor Element was rear ended later and totaled. :-(
My 2010 CRV VTEC would not engage until after I did the valve adjustment, same on the J35 engine in my Ridgeline. The best advice I heard was from the VW Guru John Muir in "how to keep your Volkswagen Alive: AFTER Adjustment, put two extra feeler gauges next on top of the correct gauge. If they all fit, it's too loose. At almost 122K miles my 2014 CRV is due, VTEC does not engage. Similar to what Eric talked about, Honda says (for the Ridgeline, have not looked up the 2.4) not to touch the valves unless they are noisy. WELL, valves that are too tight are very quiet, and too tight can crack valves or burn valves. So just be warned the factory advice doesn't help in this case.
Toyota vs Honda, debate goes on. And on , and on. In the 1960's, an Engineer defected from Honda- soon spawned a company named Toyota. T has advantages, as to non interference engines, but that should NOT come into play, mindful of OIL, OIL, OIL. Oil lubricates, but also COOLS. Eric, great vid-fan of your army green Element. I've 4 accords of various Gens. No need to generally F with valves, as stated.
34:42 From what I can hear most of the noise comes from injectors. That "ticking" sound. It's the same on my Hyundai. Engine itself sounds smooth to me. When you let go the throttle on 35:02 fuel injectors shut off (RPM are going down) and there is no much noise at all.
I just bought an 05 Element with 175k miles on it. I heard about this procedure visiting a mechanic I have known for about five years. I was talking with one of his guys and he was going on about the Honda Element and how much they love them there. He said two things to look for in a high mileage Element is a slight shuddering in the transmission as you're accelerating quickly, like going onto the Interstate, indicating a transmission oil change may be due, and a rough idle and stalling condition until it's warm. This one will stall if I don't let it warm up a bit before rolling out. It does idle rough occasionally. I've owned it a week and have put over 1000 miles on it. It's now at 176,575 miles. I need it to last. I watched this video to see what is involved and if $200 is worth it(includes gasket set). I think I'm going to get it done. Going to get the transmission serviced too. I drive about a 1000 miles per week due to my job, so I have to have a reliable rig. Thanks so much, ETCG!
Car makers usually don't waste 1 cent on a vehicles manufacture- sometimes called "Vanity Covers" they are usually *injector covers*, meant to deaden the ticking sounds of injectors. They are also a convenient space to place the brand name, displacement, special features of the ignition and fuel delivery system used. Older vehicles used labels on the air cleaner housing for that. Eric is correct, though- they aren't "necessary". Some use covers that completely cover the engine for protection, while some might have the cover incorporated into a fresh air breather system, to help cool the engine, and quiet the air intake.
Great video as always Eric. Just did the valves on my wife's 2012 Accord, seemed to have gone well enough. Even with angled feelers getting them in and such just right is kinda a bear, plus that fuel rail in front kinda gets in the way if you don't have the special tool. No huge deal, got it done.
I I know this is an old video, but I did enjoy it. That sound is so familiar since I have owned quite a few vehicles with that very same engine. Although you didn't clean the plastic covers when you had them off shame on you 😀 usually how clean the top of the valve cover and the plastic covers and put some Armor All Outlast on the plastic to make it look all pretty. Thank you Eric.
This video was so helpful. Weirdly, the engine is much smoother when I take my foot off the gas and the engine slows the car. Usually, it "bucks"--enough that my girlfriend spills her tea. Now it's, well, smooth for an Element. Thanks Eric!
BEFORE ADJUSTMENT: 1:40 AFTER ADJUSTMENT: 34:38 almost done with mine, and HOLY HECK dealing with the feeler gauges is a fiddly nightmare until you get the hang of it.
Dave, so if you have oil on your spark plugs, what is the solution for that? I was literally going to do this job, along with threading out the tubes and cleaning them up and resealing them until I read this. Please let me know what would be the proper way to resolve this problem I'm having. It's creating multi cylinder misfires as well as ruined coils.
@@jessicaromero8941Replace the spark plug tube seals! This guy is misremembering something, as he is the only person in the world offering this advice. He mentions something about Toyotas when he's talking about it. I'm going through all 680+ comments on this video, and so far, everyone else that has researched this issue says the tubes are PRESSED in, not threaded, and trying to remove them could damage your engine.
K24 engine is the best that Honda ever made. Our 2004 CRV has over 324,000 miles and is still going strong!
informative, accurate, detailed with proper camera placement and no BS flapping. Erics videos should be the model format for people making tutorial videos.
Thank you so much for doing this video! I’ve watched it a zillion times and taken extensive notes. At almost 300K miles, the 2005 Element that I inherited hasn’t never had its valves adjusted (and of course there are more problems than just that). This video gave me the confidence to do the job myself. Having gotten the valve cover off, I’m now wishing (remember- almost 300k miles) that BEFORE I took the cover off, I had taken a toothbrush and rag to clean all around the edges of the valve cover. The amount of road grime that’s built up is ridiculous. With the cover off, it’s very difficult to wipe the grime away without some of it also falling into the engine. Again, brush the grime away BEFORE loosening and removing the valve cover. That will save a lot of time and heartache. Thank you ETCG for this stellar video!!!
Did that engine last these past two years? My guess is that road grime took it on out, microns of dirt hurt your engine, you can barely see a 10 micron speck
Well Paul, I stuff dirt in my engine every change and my motor is approaching a quarter million inches.
@@paulcollins9094My E is still going! The idle is a little rough, so I’m revisiting this video, thinking I’ll pop the cover and make sure everything is still good. Since it was my first time, it’s possible that I didn’t tighten a nut enough and allowed the screw to loosen/tighten on its own. Also, want to make sure the exhaust valves haven’t tightened up too much. Again, noob adjustment, so checking to make sure all is well.
Check your intake from the air box to the manifold my rubber tube was ripped and had a vacuum leak
Coming from an old Mercedes mechanic who did more than his share of valve adjustments on 70's & 80's vintage 240D's & 300D's, I have to congratulate you on a top notch instructional video. I recently inherited a 2006 CRV with 61K miles, never had a valve adjustment. With this video to guide me, I expect to be able to perform the job without any problems. Thanks for this exceptionally well done video, Eric... Semper Fi!
Having worked on this over the past week, along with a long and drawn out sludge removal process, I finally understand why Eric suggests doing it this way instead of doing cylinders 1-3-4-2 like Honda does. It's really easy to get confused and do the wrong cylinders, especially when you go from 1 to 3. Last night I started doing #2 instead of #3 and totally got my valves messed up. Well, not exactly messed up but way out of adjustment; I'll have to start over and it won't be fun because they are so far off now on #2. I'm going to do it this time the way he does it in this vid.
One other thing of note, both here and on his website he puts the exhaust valve clearance at .010-.013 but the Honda service manual for the 2003-2004 Element says .011-.013. As long as the .013 feeler gauge doesn't go and the .010 does it should be fine though.
Thanks again for the video, Eric.
I have done this on my 2003 CR-V. I used a long screwdriver in the spark plug hole to determine TDC. Worked great. This IS the BEST video out there. Super job all around. AND...no darn aggravating music!!
A lot of you guys are stating the same thing he said..."make sure its cold, you don't need valve adjustment tool, etc" Did you guys even watch the video??? Great job EricTheCarGuy!!! Appreciate the information.
Great tutorial Eric! I noticed a bit of valve noise from my '08 TSX and was planning to set the valve clearances (130,000 miles). I now know to remove the valve cover bushings BEFORE I remove the valve cover and loose them in some dark place in the engine bay.
Your comment on the exhaust valves being a bit tighter after 120K miles is because the valve stem material "creeps" under higher temperatures and valve spring tension. Intake valve stems are much cooler particularly when the intake and exhaust manifolds are on opposite sides of the cylinder head. In addition, the fuel/air charge also cools the intake valve fillet and seat. So the intake valves clearances increase due to wear on the camshaft lobe, while the creep of the exhaust valve is greater than the contact wear with the cam lobe.
Thanks for helping us keep our cars running great!
Thanks Eric. I did this today. As you mentioned, the intake were lose and the exhaust were tight. A bit of a challenge reaching back behind to get the exhaust valves adjusted. Especially for a 67 yr. old guy. So far, engine is running smooth. '03 AWD. I appreciate your help as always.
Thanks for the video. Today was my first time doing this. I changed the gasket, oil seals, and rubber grommets while I was there. Engine feels smoother, less noisy, and has better response. Subtle differences but I have owned my TSX for 10 years so I can tell the difference. I used the shorter angled feeler gauges because its crammed in there. Helps to disconnect the line coming out of the power steering pump (and to the rack) so you can easily remove and reinstall the valve cover. I found it easier to insert the feeler gauges from the side of the feeler gauge instead of going straight with the tip. I used a ratcheting combination wrench on the 19mm bolt of the power steering pulley to turn the engine.
Huge Thanks! Having never done a similar procedure, I just did this on my 2006 Honda Element following this video. The car previously had problems in the cold and would die when idling in drive/reverse and then be difficult to start. Just started the car in below freezing temps and put in Drive and Reverse and engine now has no hesitation or rough idle. Idle and engine are also now smoother when warm. Problem solved! Could not be happier!!!
All of the intake valves were very close and only required a slight adjustment on each (some a touch loose, some a touch tight). The exhaust valves were all way too tight just like you explained! All of them required loosening - on some by almost a full 360 degree rotation of the screw, and one on cylinder 2 by even more (was tightened all of the way down with no gap whatsoever).
I have a 2006 Element as well. Did you adjust in order 1234 by moving the cam shaft lob of each cylinder to TDC? Or did you adjust in 1342? Does it matter the order if your all are at TDC on the cam lob?
As old as this video is, here I am. This video allowed me to do this job on my wife’s CR-V with little trouble. Mine isn’t a v-tec head but it’s not much different. I did pull the fuel rail as well to make it easier. The gaps were also slightly different on mine but once I found them, it all clicked. Thanks Eric.
I just did the same adjustment on my S2000. I couldn't get the feel for the right amount of drag at first so I used a go-no-go method. So, if I want a 0.009" gap, I initially tightened that screw to where the feeler gauge wouldn't move, backed it off just a little bit and tightened the locking screw. I checked the drag at 0.009" (expect to feel moderate drag), 0.010" (expect the feeler gauge to be tight/not fit), and 0.008" (expect the feeler gauge to slid in easily and with very little drag). Worked well for me.
just adjusted my valves om my 05 element with 138,000 miles. It fixed an issue where the car stalled when put into drive on a cold start. SO WORTH IT! Also better mileage and throttle response. Great vid (:
How much did your gas mileage improve?
The best video I've seen for this job! You don't talk over people's head just to try to sound important or like it's more difficult than it is... Thanks for the great info and video.
Thanks Eric. This is a widely used engine and a lot of honda owners are going to benefit from this video.
Absolutely
You can say that again
Just did this on my 04 CRV a bit over 200k miles and it smoothed the idle out immensely. Used to feel like it was going to die intermittently at stop lights and had a strange lurch when I was in drive while idling. Now it feels like it only has 80k miles and smooth as butter.
Thanks for the video! I used to do this stuff for a living but its been about 10 years since last doing a valve adjustment on a Honda. Found your video to make sure I didn't forget anything and found your tip about turning the engine over from the power steering pump MUCH better than the typical method of doing it at the crank pulley.
You are the only person in the WORLD that says this thing about oil coming up from below through the spark plug tube threads.... I have not been able to find anyone else to corroborate this anywhere.
I'm getting ready to take mine apart because there's oil on the coils.... and I'm gonna change the rubber gaskets as every single other person and manual under the sun recommends.
Only thing I have to add is the following. A lot of people always focus on the fact that if you get the valve clearance to tight that you can burn a valve, or if you get to much clearance, the valvetrain will be loud. The part I never see people say is the what can happen with loose valve lash besides just being loud. You have to get those hot exhaust gases out of the cylinder. If valve lash becomes way to loose you can actually heat that cylinder super hot.
I have seen this happen on a single cylinder motorcycle with 4 valves. One of the exhaust valves had a decompression release for easier starting. It got out of adjustment and caused excessive valve lash on that one exhaust valve. The engine was ran until it started smoking and burning oil like crazy. We found this loose valve lash and cause on tear down. The one valve was barely opening due to excessive lash and the other exhaust valve was not enough to get rid of the exhaust gases. The engine got so hot that the rings lost temper. We took the rings off the piston and you could twist them and they would not break.
So just adding to what can happen with loose valves. This is why it is important to keep them within the spec of the engine.
Hondas actually run better with a looser adjustment. That's how I adjust them. Never had an issue
This is technically true, but i think they would have to be unbelievably loose, i would imagine like 1/8th inch gap for it to affect the timing and escape of exhaust gasses. So much so, that if you can't tell something is too loose, that you wouldn't belong anywhere near an engine.
@@kylen.6742I was curious as to why the engine sounded louder after doing the adjustment? I thought it was supposed to quiet things down?
Just did the job as per your instruction on my 2004 with 310k miles, runs fabulous. Thx much, clear and comprehensive, you rock!
Out of adjustment valves can cause a misfire. I've had a check engine light for a cylinder one misfire for months. I've done plugs, coils, timing chain, cam and crank position sensors. Misfire still hung around. Finally did a valve adjustment, cyl 3 exhaust valve was way out of spec. Misfire and check light is finally gone. So if you have a Misfire you can't diagnose, check the valves.
Best video I've seen for this procedure. Great camera angles and lighting. Was worried at the beginning with the engine running that you were going to do it with the engine warm. Nice mentioning later that the motor must be stone cold.
I remember watching you when I was in high school around 2009-2010. Now fast forward more than 12 years. I’m back finding the video I’m looking for to do this on my own car, hope you’re doing good Eric ! Always the Honda go to
This is a FANTASTIC video! Thank you very much for this, I am very grateful! I'm about to adjust my valves on my 2004 Element, I got it when it was 205K miles on it, previous owner did absolutely zero maint except very basic oil changes and air filters. Amazingly, this actually was better for it than him half assing the work. Now I'm catching up on the services.
I also have a 2004 Element .. I ordered the 10mm adjustment tool which was helpful except the handle of the screw driver could have been larger and the screw driver blad wider.
I have 215,000 on this Element, remarkable how well it has run. I noticed this winter a loud tick in the engine when I started it. I had never had the valves adjusted. My mechanic discouraged against it, claiming it rarely makes any difference.
I was able to remove the valve cover and tie off with string all the cable so they wouldn't nterfere. The engine was remarkably clean, not as much Eric's Element, but given that I visit Valvoline every 5000 miles.
I used Eric's method of turning the engine by the power steering pulley, the cam lobe pointing up.. It worked fine.
I gapped the intake valves at .010
and the exhaust valves at .012.
Rechecked all valves and adjusted accordingly.
I cleaned the valve cover. thoroughly with Krud Kutter .. Good Stuff. clean the surfaces of the engine block decided to keep the gasket with some Honda Bond at the spots Eric pointed out.
I lubed the spark plug pipes and the rubber gasked in the valve cover. It went in smooth and buttoned up everything.
Reconnected the battery and started the engine ... very different sound, no loud tic and there was more of an even sound. Let the engine run a while and warm up.
Drove it around on town on short errands and listened for any unusual sounds. But the engine ran really smooth, although it didn't to have the same pep.
Took it out on the highway today and slowly increased the speed. at 65 it balked for only a second and then the engine came back to life, although the engine light came on.
I continued to drive it around at slow speed with no problem. For kicks, when I got home, I diconnected the battery for a moment and then reconnected. I started the engine and the Engine light went out.
So that's where i am.
No clue as to why the engine balked, which it had never done in 215,00 miles....
Any updates??
Did my valve adjustment on my 2007 R18. at about 125k . Very easy and straight forward. do your research and know your gap sizes. :)
I think this isn’t too much for someone who is inexperienced with internal engine management. This can be a great way to start. The only thing that would be hard is for someone to know what to feel for with those feeler gauges. Other than that it’s just pretty straight forward. Very great quality video and informative.
"Before you commit, put your fingers along the gasket" True that, Eric- as usual, you're the man.
Doing this job 8 years after this video was made. I'm excited for all my seals and gaskets to be brittle and cracked, and too look inside my engine in horror.
20:42 - One of the most relieving sounds when working on a vehicle! I cringe if I don't hear anything when something drops in the engine bay lol. Great video!
Click-click...silence is bad, too.
Eric, I love you video's. Even though, I'm a mechanic too. I'm not saying that I'm better any any shape or form. I just want to share some input that you should know by now. You mentioned removing that power steering line. That is great advice to people who go that route. The only thing I would recommend (which i'm sure by now you know) that stupid o-ring on that power steering line. That o-ring fails, but doesn't leak. Instead, it causes a loss in power-assist a lot. If it's off, it should just be replaced....cheap insurance! Some of the shoos here (in Commifornia) replace good pumps for no reason. I'm sure you know that by now. It just I got burned once by an o-ring on a p.s. pump. Anyways, thank you for the great video's. We can't know everything.
Going to do this on my 2009 crv, 108,000 miles on it now, you covered everything left me with no questions. You've helped me on other cars also, you do the best vids on these things THANKS!!
Really a fantastic video. Thank you for all the work and dilligence you put into this. Also, you may be the most level-headed and calm mechanic I've ever seen.
Just did this today. I had other instructions including the service manual and they all focus on the marks on the timing chain cogs. Well mine did not have the same marks as the manual so that was pointless. By watching this I was able to see you adjust each one at the top of the stoke above each intake/exhaust set. I also used the power steering pulley to rotate the engine with a 19mm socket which was a great idea. I'm very glad I have the same vehicle as you because I have access to all of your element videos. Never would have though about taking the cover off and doing it myself. Your videos gave me the confidence to do it. With the money I saved I bought a milwaukee 1/4" m12 ratchet for all the fasteners, the jam nut wrench, and a set of angled feeler gauges and still pocketed $100 bucks in labor savings.Thanks again.
Wow. I've known how to complete this procedure for years. Although I never paid anyone... it sure is good to know how much savings are in it!
Just want to get his right, do I just need to make sure the cam lob is point straight up for each valve I adjust?
Just used this to help me make a customer's 2002 CR-V run like a top, had random misfires on all cylinders with #1 and #3 returning the soonest. As I was adjusting I found 1 and 3 had both valves too tight, adjusted those as well as 2 and 4 poof random misfire gone and car runs great thanks Eric the video was quite helpful.
Wilkerson Auto, man I have to try this on my crv, I have all cylinders misfiring....
@@reellifewithcinco7858 it takes a bit of finesse but once you get the feel for it then it's pretty straightforward. Make sure you have a wrench with a 90 degree bend in it and the longer style feeler gauges. Good luck but with good videos like this one you won't need it 👍
@@reellifewithcinco7858 Did it fix the misfires?
very informative instructional video,one thing I do remember when I was in the honda pact program, that they thought us when after making the valve adjustment, was to make sure each one was torqued down properly, I don't know how practical that is in this video scenario but that's just one thing I wanted to point out, great video.
BEFORE: 1:47 ; AFTER - 34:51 ;;; Sound is reproduced in camera/youtube/speakers, but tact time is very smoother... Thanks for detailed and well focused video. Btw this special tool can be easily made by welding item to tube wrench, nice idea.
Great stuff. I gotta say I prefer it when you're doing the camera work. It's more of a genuine one on one tutorial, which I like. I know it takes A LOT more work for you to do this by yourself...but just my 2c. ;)
Eric, Thank you for this video! I have never been much of a mechanic, but thank God for your video. I took it slow and must have watched your video a million times over the past two days but I got my Honda purring again.
Letting you know that I just had this done at 184K. I have been having a "Cold" engine idle issue that resulting it to stall until motor was up to operating temp. ~4-7 minutes. I went to the local service center(Not a dealership) that only works on honda and acura cars and they actually pulled a vacuum on motor and it was too low. So they went to check the valves and the exhaust valves were bottomed out. They adjusted to the specifications you mentioned and so far it runs smoother and we will see in the morning on a cold start. Thanks for the help with this.
Eric superb demonstration. I feel pretty confident I can tackle this on my 2009.CRV. Same engine. Thank you
Thanks for the video of what it sounds like after your adjustment. My Accord was at 200k miles and pretty sure the valves were never adjusted. The exhaust valve lash was ridiculously tight before I adjusted them. Took almost a 360 turn of the screw on some of them. It is a little noisy now, but it sounds just like yours after your adjustment, so I feel a lot better about it.
My Element sounds a little louder too. Runs smooth tho 🤷🏻♂️
Eric got me through my first valve adjustment back in the day with the cb7 f22a... now another one with the cr-v in the coming days... big ups bro
Thanks for that, Eric. Just did a valve lash on my '02 Accord 2.3L with 110k miles. I found the same thing you did: tight exhaust valves (esp. cylinders 1 and 2) and very slightly loose intake valves. I was doing it to try to quiet a slight ticking sound you hear on idle. I've been hearing it since 60k miles, but it recently got a little louder. Reminded me a little of a '56 Chevy.
After my adjustment, it wasn't any quieter. You gave me confidence by saying it might actually sound louder after you ease up on the exhaust valves, and mine sounds a little quieter than the K series you just worked on. So I guess all is okay. And I guess I'm protecting my exhaust valves from overheating and causing a problem down the road. It just seems these Hondas don't run as quiet as cars with self-adjusting hydraulic lifters. (Maybe it's the injectors like the comment below mine suggests?)
Any updates?
@@realtorjeffpimentel It's still about the same sound, but now that I know what it is, I just don't worry about it.
2024, this video is still helping people. Thank you, sir.
Will be doing my 08 Accords valves this weekend!! This video is a fantastic guide and I'm confident i can get it done. 169k+ and never been done.
Hey Eric, Thanks for the awesome video, My brother and I just used you every step of the way adjusting K20 civic. Thanks for being there!
Was this on the type r ep3 civic? Was the engine tapping every slightly? Like a ticking sort of sound. Did it stop once you adjusted the valves?
Hey Eric, quick tip for the diy. Instead of getting the special tool you can use a Craftsman Max Axess ratchet and socket (or other brand) with the pass through design. That way you can put your screwdriver through the socket and extension and tighten the locknut while holding the screw in place.
link?
Thanks! I totally forgot that I own one of those sets lmao. Great tools too.
@@smarzig www.ebay.com/itm/203091285094?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=203091285094&targetid=935065067707&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9031626&poi=&campaignid=10876471603&mkgroupid=107964302620&rlsatarget=pla-935065067707&abcId=9300401&merchantid=6296724&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhb36BRCfARIsAKcXh6EqbjjisHEaN6Nky6rpMsfvGYgenx1pHmK6u5m-qO5VS88ajwLFaTEaAo1BEALw_wcB One option on eBay.
Thanks for the video Eric.
I did this a few days ago (05 Accord) using your method, not Honda's.
On mine, surprisingly, all intake and exhaust were loose except for one exhaust valve on cyl 1 which was just OK. That's the only one I didn't adjust.
I set cyl 1 at TDC so its intake and exhaust CAM lobes were on the base circle. With this, cyl 2 intake and cyl 3 exhaust were on their base circles. I adjusted them accordingly.
I then set cyl 4 at TDC having both intake and exhaust at base circle. With this, cyl 2 exhaust and cyl 3 intake were on their base circles. I adjusted accordingly.
Runs a lot smoother now. Way less vibration. Got power back. Yes, better mileage now too. And way less tapping sound at cold starts. (almost inaudible).
Can't thank you enough for this video man!! Recently bought a 2006 CRV with this engine in it and it helped me get comfortable with it! Thanks a ton for helping me learn!
The best video I've seen on Honda Valve adjustments and love your handy tips. Excellent Job :)
A good LED shop light attached under the hood helps in seeing those screw slots, and everything else 😉. If you have the time do all except the adjustment and let it cool over night, the cooler that motor is the better. Long zip ties keep the lines and hoses out of the way. No hassling with them. Check and recheck adjustments is good advice for this critical maintenance. Really good advice whenever doing something worth doing. Put spark plugs back in after adjusting valves, will prevent anyhthing from accidentally dropping in plug holes.
Eric, thank you for this video. Just did my valves on my 08 Si and your video was instrumental in helping me. (Using K20 specs) It wasn't until the No. 3 cylinder that I got the "feel" down, but I did them all twice to be sure. Thank you again.
How’s it running? What specs did you adjust the intake and exhaust to?
Hey Eric I wanted to thank you for this video. I must report it worked flawless with my vehicle. it not only fixed the majorly ruff idle along with curing the "random missfire" codes it would throw no matter what new coils injectors or plugs I used. maybe title this as being able to fix that random missfire issue Hondas are so sensitive with.
I think it's time to do this in my 2.0 liter RSX looks just like the 2.4 great video!
Great suggestion and approach to rotate the engine from the PS pulley. Just pull the plugs! What a back saver
I like the common sense way of doing things, and i am using 1/4 drive especially aluminum alloy. Well I'm a retired mechanic of mainly of oil rig equipment and this is great help just seeing how things are done on this Honda Engine.
This video was so helpful! I have an 04 element that kept idling down and stalling when cold shifting to D or R, and had a bad starter. This video and your starter replacement video helped get it up and running again perfectly! Keep up the awesome videos!
Those elements need Honda factory starters. Denso. US autoparts don't work.
Dude...Thank you. I hope you know how much you help other people and how good of a job you do explaining.
This is my 2nd time adjusting the valves on the ol' K24! Thank you!
Man this is soooo much like watching like open heart surgery! Awesome video Eric! :) I have an '05 CRV with ~350000 km's - on an untouched timing chain. That is my project for next week, don't know how I made it this far without blowing the engine up.
Chains will last as long as the oil gets changed
Eric Great Video thanks for taking the time to show and teach us what is entailed when working on a car in such great detail. Its videos like this that have given me the confidence to tackle on some projects on a Nissan Maxima I own. Have saved lots of money but even better than that is the feeling of being able to trouble shoot and repair my own car. It may take me a little longer but at Least I know I have taken proper procedures with care and not take any shortcuts, as I have experience from poorly trained mechanics or ones that only have $$$ on their mind. One example was many years ago I had a friend who was a trained mechanic rebuilt a Carb in an old Chevy Impala and he installed the gasket backwards because he was rushing. This videos allow me to do my homework and help me perceive the challenges I may encounter, or at least confirm if it is something I need to take to a PRO. Thank you again.
The valve tool is one you dont wanna go without just got mine in the mail 3rd times a charm I’m hoping
Very nice video. Just want add that the correct exhaust valve clearance of my K20Z2 is 0.28-0.32 mm (according to service manual) and not 0.254-0.330 as pointed in the video.
Thanks ETCG you helped me a lot with a lot of your videos, you've made my life easier.
When reinstalling, if all that hosing had been zip tied back, it would be clear for removal and reinstall. my two cents. great vid, going for box wrench 10mm ❤️
I will plan to do that. Thanks.
I’m currently doing research to be able to do 110k mile maintenance on my car with 305k miles. God I love Honda
Wow you did a really good job at breaking down what you were doing. Came to this video with no knowledge of fix my valves but after this video, I'm certain I can do this now. Thanks Eric! Looking for for more videos from you.
Well not really. I only look up your video if my car is broken down ahaha
Eric your method is the best for doing valve adjustment, repair book relies on crank degree position, but that's less accurate than looking at cam lobe position, thank you for so many great videos :)
Thanks for the video. The local Honda dealer wants $400 to adjust the valves on a 2012 CRV.
I'm going to do them myself. They look pretty much the same set up as my Gold Wing.
For other people watching, this might help for setting it to .008" try fitting a .009" feeler gauge in, this will help you learn the feel, but also verify your adjustments
Assuming a .009 wouldn't fit if adjusted correctly to .008? Haven't don't this in a long time and thinking about doing it to my accord that's on 135k.
@@Big-T- You are correct, .009 would be too thick by .001 of an inch if adjusted to the .008 spec
I drive a Ford Mustang and when I hit 110,000 I asked the Ford mechanic about adjusting the valves and he said on a ford you don't want to mess with the valves on some brands you do but on fords you don't
Thanks to your video I saved a few hundred dollars and learned a great skill. seems like those exhaust valves really tighten down far. it was actually causing a missfire and very scary stalls.
Yep, Eric is my go-to car guy. I went ahead and bought that '05 Element with 267,000 mi.that I'd sworn not to, wish me luck. I've got it down from 9 faults on the MIR to 2, bought a knock sensor to put in tomorrow for the P0325 fault, but the P0302 (cyl2 misfire) didn't move when I swapped the coils (with new plugs), so I'm doing a compression check and bleed down, then adjusting the valves, running, and testing again tomorrow. Saying appropriate prayers and mystical incantations (not kidding) that I don't need a valve job.
I really should get on the forum, since I've committed to this beast, frankly love it.
I wonder... If I need a valve job, should I rebuild the bottom, too... What's the oil pressure, what did Eric pay for a used low mi. engine? OMG, please smog for me, I'll never sneer at rice-burner motorcycles again, I swear!
Your videos are so helpful,I’m in the search of an Element Honda manual trans just like yours I’ve learned a lot. Thanks for sharing your knowledge
Nice job. I was just Googling mileage to change accord plugs and viewed your videos out of curiosity. You made it very clear even with the complication of recording it.
Thanks so much Eric. I have this engine and replaced the vvt sprocket and didn't adjust the valves so this is exactly what I'm going to do. It has been driving me crazy 😬
Fantastic video. If my 08' CR-V passes the corrosion check of the new recall, this is next on the list!
Thanks Eric the car guy for your help
Did this valve job on my 05 CRV today and nailed it
I had 06 Acura Tsx with 250,000 miles. It has original engine and original transmission. I never adjust the valve and it was running good, no loud noise on valves when I sold it. Maintenance was always on time. I sold it due to ac issue in last three consecutive years and it turns out it was a mechanic who didn't do a good job, plus it has something to do with parts (Not good Quality) from autozone with lifetime warranty. Lesson learn to buy parts made in Japan
Thank you for showing that with the plugs out I can turn the engine over with a wrench on the power steering pully. Way easier than the alternative.
Thank you for posting this. I thought it was going to be as tedious as adjusting the valves and shims on a motorcycle. Whew!
I had a different experience with my Honda Element. I was having issues in cold weather. It was hard to start (sounded like the battery was weak - cranking over slow) and would stall at the first stop sign (after sitting all night). I had a manual transmission, BTW. When stopping, I'd push in the clutch and come to a stop. The RPMs would drop below 1K, then bounce up to 2K, then come back down to typical idle revs. If the stop was within 1-2 miles of a fresh cold start, the RPMs would drop significantly below 1K and the car would stall. Wouldn't happen again until the next day.
I ended up performing a valve adjustment in my garage. I found ALL the exhaust valves to be extremely tight (like 0.003 or so, if my memory serves). The intakes were a smidge over the 0.008. Once the adjustment was made all previous cold weather symptoms went away. It started quickly and didn't have the RPM surge... until around 60,000 miles. Then it happened again and the next valve adjustment yielded the same results. Exhaust valves were super tight again. Not sure why, but the adjustment fixed the issues again.
My poor Element was rear ended later and totaled. :-(
that's terrible about being rear ended..
The magic happens with the 'OOMPH'. Good vid. Thanks Eric.
My 2010 CRV VTEC would not engage until after I did the valve adjustment, same on the J35 engine in my Ridgeline.
The best advice I heard was from the VW Guru John Muir in "how to keep your Volkswagen Alive: AFTER Adjustment, put two extra feeler gauges next on top of the correct gauge. If they all fit, it's too loose. At almost 122K miles my 2014 CRV is due, VTEC does not engage.
Similar to what Eric talked about, Honda says (for the Ridgeline, have not looked up the 2.4) not to touch the valves unless they are noisy. WELL, valves that are too tight are very quiet, and too tight can crack valves or burn valves. So just be warned the factory advice doesn't help in this case.
Toyota vs Honda, debate goes on. And on , and on. In the 1960's, an Engineer defected from Honda- soon spawned a company named Toyota. T has advantages, as to non interference engines, but that should NOT come into play, mindful of OIL, OIL, OIL. Oil lubricates, but also COOLS. Eric, great vid-fan of your army green Element. I've 4 accords of various Gens. No need to generally F with valves, as stated.
34:42 From what I can hear most of the noise comes from injectors. That "ticking" sound. It's the same on my Hyundai.
Engine itself sounds smooth to me.
When you let go the throttle on 35:02 fuel injectors shut off (RPM are going down) and there is no much noise at all.
Good observation- for two seconds only.
I just bought an 05 Element with 175k miles on it. I heard about this procedure visiting a mechanic I have known for about five years. I was talking with one of his guys and he was going on about the Honda Element and how much they love them there.
He said two things to look for in a high mileage Element is a slight shuddering in the transmission as you're accelerating quickly, like going onto the Interstate, indicating a transmission oil change may be due, and a rough idle and stalling condition until it's warm.
This one will stall if I don't let it warm up a bit before rolling out. It does idle rough occasionally. I've owned it a week and have put over 1000 miles on it. It's now at 176,575 miles. I need it to last.
I watched this video to see what is involved and if $200 is worth it(includes gasket set). I think I'm going to get it done. Going to get the transmission serviced too. I drive about a 1000 miles per week due to my job, so I have to have a reliable rig.
Thanks so much, ETCG!
Car makers usually don't waste 1 cent on a vehicles manufacture- sometimes called "Vanity Covers" they are usually *injector covers*, meant to deaden the ticking sounds of injectors. They are also a convenient space to place the brand name, displacement, special features of the ignition and fuel delivery system used. Older vehicles used labels on the air cleaner housing for that. Eric is correct, though- they aren't "necessary". Some use covers that completely cover the engine for protection, while some might have the cover incorporated into a fresh air breather system, to help cool the engine, and quiet the air intake.
Great video as always Eric. Just did the valves on my wife's 2012 Accord, seemed to have gone well enough. Even with angled feelers getting them in and such just right is kinda a bear, plus that fuel rail in front kinda gets in the way if you don't have the special tool. No huge deal, got it done.
I I know this is an old video, but I did enjoy it. That sound is so familiar since I have owned quite a few vehicles with that very same engine. Although you didn't clean the plastic covers when you had them off shame on you 😀 usually how clean the top of the valve cover and the plastic covers and put some Armor All Outlast on the plastic to make it look all pretty. Thank you Eric.
Wonderful camera angle! Good Job!!
This Guy is ace !! Videos very professionally done, explanation and tips at a perfect level.Many thanks
Thanks Eric, you're a great guy and your videos have helped me a lot. Take care, stay well, and please keep up the good work.
This video was so helpful. Weirdly, the engine is much smoother when I take my foot off the gas and the engine slows the car. Usually, it "bucks"--enough that my girlfriend spills her tea. Now it's, well, smooth for an Element. Thanks Eric!
My favorite quote: "At least it hit the ground. Right?" Happened to me too many times.
BEFORE ADJUSTMENT: 1:40
AFTER ADJUSTMENT: 34:38
almost done with mine, and HOLY HECK dealing with the feeler gauges is a fiddly nightmare until you get the hang of it.
brilliant video Eric, if you ever do chain and tensioner change would be great to see a video ;)
That video is a must. Can you do without pulling engine?
Did you ever find that chain and tensioner video?
Just for the record, the spark plug tubes are not threaded in but pressed in. :) great video! Adjusted my TSX today.
Dave, so if you have oil on your spark plugs, what is the solution for that? I was literally going to do this job, along with threading out the tubes and cleaning them up and resealing them until I read this. Please let me know what would be the proper way to resolve this problem I'm having. It's creating multi cylinder misfires as well as ruined coils.
@@jessicaromero8941Replace the spark plug tube seals! This guy is misremembering something, as he is the only person in the world offering this advice. He mentions something about Toyotas when he's talking about it. I'm going through all 680+ comments on this video, and so far, everyone else that has researched this issue says the tubes are PRESSED in, not threaded, and trying to remove them could damage your engine.