In this video, we are using the Metrel 3152BT multifunction electricians tester. 👉 ua-cam.com/video/3XCXxw6SBC0/v-deo.html Refresh your safe isolation knowledge with this free training module. 👉 www.efixx.co.uk/Know%20How/introduction-to-safe-isolation-cpd
When you shown the back of the socket, I saw both cpc was connected in one of the cpc connector. Some advice I was shown that they should be connected into each side of the plug. I was wondering if makes any difference?
You do know that you have reverse polarity on the socket you're pointing at when talking about polarity? Or are you just trying to see how many were actually paying attention? The reinforcing in BS7671 that for initial verification the installation should be tested in stages as it's being installed is something I've been hammering in my 2391 courses for years. Wouldn't do this for an EICR on an existing installation as this should've been proved at the IV stage and we might introduce defects, unless it was for fault diagnosis for the containment or CPC.
Hoping for quick advice, installing a 2kw heater (creda car 200) and cable in 6-8m of conduit and unsure as on fused spur, should I go 10amp breaker with 1.5mm t+e so 20% above what need or as fused spur in it and run to go 16amp breaker with 2.5mm t+e? Or even 10amp breaker on 2.5mm t+e? So you know it as of where cable going in my flat I thought I help by laying the cable into conduit on the run and let an electrician connect it to consumer unit and sign it off
R1+Rn, the R1+R2 coupled with the visual inspection does. Just the R1+R2 on its own doesn't. As they said 2 tests and a visual is good practice for a polarity test
I am lucky got a plug in tester, somehow flipped live and neutral on a single gang socket once as the position of connection was mirror to some of the other brands I used
My biggest bug bear is when the cables aren't numbered inside the DB and switchgear. I know its not a requirement of BS7671 but when all live neutral and earths are numbered it shows an additional attention to detail compared to some installations whete anywhere on the earth or neutral terminal will do
I take a photo of my danger tag when installed, with my phone. Just in case the danger tag goes missing or falls off for some reason. It good to show the safety police.
At 9.36 , you are showing us blue ( neutral) connected to ‘L’ (Line) and brown (line) connected to ‘N’ ( neutral). Obviously horrified given the testing …..
It was probably deliberate to show that visual inspection should be done first or to show it isn’t always done hence why we test the circuit. ? It no point testing then find you have go round removing accessories because your test results were wrong. But how did he get a positive result? On the last socket. ?
@eFIXX, a question about the dead polarity test: Accepted method: Step 1:We link L-N at the board, then test for continuity between L and N at all points. If all good, then we go on to step 2: Link L-E at the board, and test for continuity between L and E at all points. Again, if all good, then polarity is confirmed. My question is, in step 1, why could we not link N-E, and test for continuity between N and E at all points, instead? I may have missed something, but as far as I can tell, this (in conjunction with step 2) would also prove polarity. It could also be directly compared with R1+R2 in the majority of cases, where N and E follow the same path.
From a technical standpoint, the test you've described produces a vastly similar result, but from the everyday use point of view. I'd just like to add a few points for consideration. The test itself is to verify the continuity of the protective (Earth) conductor, it's use as a method of proving polarity is just a little Brucie bonus. We only use the second conductor as a return path for the test current, otherwise we can use the R2 or 'Long lead' method. Additionally, the continuity of the CPC should be proven at all points of utilisation in a given circuit, the neutral conductor isn't always present at these, picture a light switch in a domestic dwelling wired using the three plate method or a final circuit feeding a three phase motor, traditionally there wouldn't be a neutral in these places, so the line conductor is a safe bet. Lastly, taking the resistance of the line and CPC, gives you a resistance value for the load side of the earth fault loop , when added to the external earth fault loop impedance (Ze or Zdb), we can use this as part of of a calculated Zs result, eliminating the need for testing on energised conductors where it may be difficult to do so in a safe manner. So it saves you a little time.
Actual metal money is getting rarer these days, but a pin from the socket works just as well to zero the lead... Not that I'd bother unless the result was too high, if it's under what it needs to be the resistance of the lead is a moot point. Also, why not just do all this live? A live ZS test would verify earth continuity and the tester would let you know if L&N were reversed. As for the fly leads, so long as there's 1 solid lug in the back box, it's unnecessary and not required by BS 7671.
Those Hamilton socket terminals are rubbish. Good luck trying to get 3x 2.5mm cables in there, especially singles. Far too small, sort this out Hamilton please!
@@efixx anything to drag the test on ay it .... I'd find it mocking my intelligence just for a simple test that cud do it while it's hot with a plug polarity tester or multi meter but the zeroing the resistance is a good feature and should be on all multi meters
In this video, we are using the Metrel 3152BT multifunction electricians tester.
👉 ua-cam.com/video/3XCXxw6SBC0/v-deo.html
Refresh your safe isolation knowledge with this free training module.
👉 www.efixx.co.uk/Know%20How/introduction-to-safe-isolation-cpd
Rick's priorities are nailed on; straight onto the biscuit action
Rick loves his food 🥘
Had to smile at this video. I’ve done installing and testing at the Foxs’s biscuit factory😀
Great comment 😁
I also love biscuits Rick 👍🏻
Those Fox's biscuits are banging, I used to get them all the time.
9:31 were we meant to spot that swap as some sort of viewer test? 😂
Thanks for this great tutorial
Thanks for watching 👍🏻
When you shown the back of the socket, I saw both cpc was connected in one of the cpc connector. Some advice I was shown that they should be connected into each side of the plug. I was wondering if makes any difference?
You do know that you have reverse polarity on the socket you're pointing at when talking about polarity? Or are you just trying to see how many were actually paying attention?
The reinforcing in BS7671 that for initial verification the installation should be tested in stages as it's being installed is something I've been hammering in my 2391 courses for years. Wouldn't do this for an EICR on an existing installation as this should've been proved at the IV stage and we might introduce defects, unless it was for fault diagnosis for the containment or CPC.
Testing both sides of a twin socket is a good tip. I've found a few faulty sockets where there was a much higher reading on one side.
Great point James 👍🏻
Hoping for quick advice, installing a 2kw heater (creda car 200) and cable in 6-8m of conduit and unsure as on fused spur, should I go 10amp breaker with 1.5mm t+e so 20% above what need or as fused spur in it and run to go 16amp breaker with 2.5mm t+e? Or even 10amp breaker on 2.5mm t+e?
So you know it as of where cable going in my flat I thought I help by laying the cable into conduit on the run and let an electrician connect it to consumer unit and sign it off
hi Thanks for the information, I'm Ivan from Malta, can you please guide me from where to buy the safe isolation lock used as shown @1.30sec,
What if there is a Line / CPC reverse throughout the circuit. Will a r1r2 test check this polarity?
R1+Rn, the R1+R2 coupled with the visual inspection does. Just the R1+R2 on its own doesn't. As they said 2 tests and a visual is good practice for a polarity test
I know you love your fancy testor but is there a cheap tester that can do the same on radial circuits?
How come the last socket shown saying a visual inspection etc was connected wrong polarity
It was but can be missed on a visual inspection when you see to browns and two blues 👀👍🏻
I am lucky got a plug in tester, somehow flipped live and neutral on a single gang socket once as the position of connection was mirror to some of the other brands I used
Am i being dumb? I thought brown was Line/Live, and blue was Neutral? So does that mean the plug at 9:33 was mis-wired?
Incorrect polarity but visually it looks correct
@@efixx no, visually it looks wrong 🤷♂️
My biggest bug bear is when the cables aren't numbered inside the DB and switchgear. I know its not a requirement of BS7671 but when all live neutral and earths are numbered it shows an additional attention to detail compared to some installations whete anywhere on the earth or neutral terminal will do
What book are you using
Guidance notes 3
Hiya Gaz, Daddy B here, how can I get an efixx lock off kit? 😁👍
They sell them on the eFIXX store
I take a photo of my danger tag when installed, with my phone. Just in case the danger tag goes missing or falls off for some reason. It good to show the safety police.
Just do an R1-R2 that gives you a reading for the earth and checks polarity
It won’t prove polarity just doing that
@@efixx if you don't get an R1+R2 your polarity is wrong
@@cloud4344 but the line and cpc could be the wrong way around… watch the video it’s all explained in it
At 9.36 , you are showing us blue ( neutral) connected to ‘L’ (Line) and brown (line) connected to ‘N’ ( neutral). Obviously horrified given the testing …..
100% that’s why visual inspection is more challenging 👍🏻
It was probably deliberate to show that visual inspection should be done first or to show it isn’t always done hence why we test the circuit. ? It no point testing then find you have go round removing accessories because your test results were wrong.
But how did he get a positive result? On the last socket. ?
I notice that the socket front was wired incorrectly at 9.28... then noticed you have also noticed and commented... Well done.
@eFIXX, a question about the dead polarity test:
Accepted method: Step 1:We link L-N at the board, then test for continuity between L and N at all points. If all good, then we go on to step 2: Link L-E at the board, and test for continuity between L and E at all points. Again, if all good, then polarity is confirmed.
My question is, in step 1, why could we not link N-E, and test for continuity between N and E at all points, instead? I may have missed something, but as far as I can tell, this (in conjunction with step 2) would also prove polarity. It could also be directly compared with R1+R2 in the majority of cases, where N and E follow the same path.
I do this on radial circuits like cookers and showers. If the rn+R2 is higher then needs a tighten up switches or check other joints
@@jamesmoon5632 that's exactly what I use it for too 👍
From a technical standpoint, the test you've described produces a vastly similar result, but from the everyday use point of view. I'd just like to add a few points for consideration. The test itself is to verify the continuity of the protective (Earth) conductor, it's use as a method of proving polarity is just a little Brucie bonus. We only use the second conductor as a return path for the test current, otherwise we can use the R2 or 'Long lead' method.
Additionally, the continuity of the CPC should be proven at all points of utilisation in a given circuit, the neutral conductor isn't always present at these, picture a light switch in a domestic dwelling wired using the three plate method or a final circuit feeding a three phase motor, traditionally there wouldn't be a neutral in these places, so the line conductor is a safe bet.
Lastly, taking the resistance of the line and CPC, gives you a resistance value for the load side of the earth fault loop , when added to the external earth fault loop impedance (Ze or Zdb), we can use this as part of of a calculated Zs result, eliminating the need for testing on energised conductors where it may be difficult to do so in a safe manner. So it saves you a little time.
Actual metal money is getting rarer these days, but a pin from the socket works just as well to zero the lead... Not that I'd bother unless the result was too high, if it's under what it needs to be the resistance of the lead is a moot point. Also, why not just do all this live? A live ZS test would verify earth continuity and the tester would let you know if L&N were reversed. As for the fly leads, so long as there's 1 solid lug in the back box, it's unnecessary and not required by BS 7671.
This polarity test can also be done using a Martindale socket tester, just as long as there is no requirement to record the readings..
Those Hamilton socket terminals are rubbish. Good luck trying to get 3x 2.5mm cables in there, especially singles. Far too small, sort this out Hamilton please!
"sometimes referred to as Earth onsite". You mean always called Earth and only referred to as CPC in the regs! 🤣
Wow that's an annoying tester for something so simple needs binning that does 🤣🤣
No, it's a great bit of kit, I used a slightly older model in the wild for quite a while to be fair. 😊
@@efixx anything to drag the test on ay it .... I'd find it mocking my intelligence just for a simple test that cud do it while it's hot with a plug polarity tester or multi meter but the zeroing the resistance is a good feature and should be on all multi meters
I can’t believe the Metrel app is still “Android only” in 2023. Metrel have alienated everyone without Android who wants to buy their products.