Actually, technically No. Current doesn't flow in a conductor, it flows around the conductor, or so i was taught at trade school. Current in the neutral must equal the current in the active, how else does an ELCB work!
Don't know how UK electric works other than that you lot use 50 Hz instead of 60 Hz, but in the US you can't have 3 different devices share 1 neutral with 3 phase power. It used to be allowed, but the NEC was changed in 2014 I think. It's a lot of fun trying to fish 2 new neutrals in the old conduit to upgrade old buildings. (not) For fear of undiscovered nicks/shorts when the power is turned back on, oftentimes we just hook new wire with additional neutrals to the old, and use the old for the pull line to install the new and then recycle the old.
A couple of gotchas with 3 phase neutral: 1) If there is a fault the absence of a neutral connection can allow overvoltage on the phase conductors without tripping breakers and the risk of shock or fire in any connected loads and 2) someone might connect a 3 phase + neutral appliance like an industrial heater to single phase power, joining all 3 phases together and tripleing the current in the neutral. Best case the neutral wire burns out, worst case the building burns to the ground.
@@markhill9275 OMG OMG OMG....Current doesn't flow in a conductor, it flows around the conductor,???? matter, atoms, electrons, neutrons... learn your lessons again
I just discovered this channel and I love it. I´m a Electrical and Computer Engineering student and love all things related to power grids and house installations, your explanations are more on a "practical" rather than theoretical approach and I just find it much easier to comprehend. Amazing work!
An outstanding presentation. I am a retired electrician and most of my work was done on 480 VAC three phase control circuits. I worked with maintaining large 50+ horsepower 2-speed motors and things like that. I also worked with DC traction elevator motors. I found it to be very enjoyable work. Your presentation is spot on!! I just subscribed so I will be seeing more of you. Cheers!
This could also be drawn up as vectors. The phases are 120 degrees out of phase, a balanced load drawn as vectors would also show 0amps, and an unbalanced load would result in a vector length equal to the amps drawn in the neutral. That's how I learned it and understood it best in school, but this was also a great explanation! Nice and simple, keep it up! :)
For anyone having trouble envisioning this, it's a bit easier if you start with something like American (two phase) house wiring, which comes in from the pole transformer as 240V, but with a center-tapped neutral wire. That means that neutral to either live conductor is 120V, so you basically have two 120V circuits, but each one is 180 degrees out of phase with the other (and typically half of the house circuits will be wired to one side and the other half to the other side). Because of this, if you need more than 120V for some appliances (such as many stoves, water heaters, EV chargers, etc), you can just connect them across the two different "live" wires to get total of 240V instead. In that case, you don't need the neutral wire, because all of the current going in on one side is balanced by the (exactly opposite) phase on the other wire going out. But it also means that on the neutral line going back to the pole, there may or may not be a lot of current, depending on how well the loads on the different house circuits are balanced. If you've got the same amount of stuff going on one half as on the other half, then all of the current will go "in" from live A to neutral, then from neutral to live B and back out again, and there will be no net current on the neutral line. However, if there's more load on the A side than the B side (or vice-versa), then all of that excess needs to go back out the neutral instead.
FFS! If you have trouble envisioning it then go back and re do your entire electrical training! It's that basic a question. And if you don't know the answer to it, you shouldn't be anywhere near mains electrical installations, even if you are "qualified". Because for you not to know the answer means that: 1. You have forgotten your basic electrical education, and 2. That you don't really understand electricity.
@@greenpedal370 Yes, he is quite correct about their being 180 degree phase shift between the two lines in the US split phase system. If you know enough about sine waves and electricity, you will realise that 180 degrees is the only way that is possible. If you think he is wrong because you think it should be 120 degrees, then that is certainly incorrect. 120 degrees phase shift between phase conductors only occurs in 3 phase systems. And that is because they physically position coils around in the generator at 120 degrees around the rotor. In the US split phase system, the phase signals that are distributed to consumers do not originate from the power station and generator, they are produced by the down stream distribution former and is a result of how the secondary windings are connected. It's very different to 3 phase.
Yeah, I did learn this back when doing my C&G part 1, 2, 3. It was really nice to see it all again in video format. I think we did it all in formulas back then.
I was trying to explain this to a cocky technician, who was 15 years senior to me. He was having none of it. I designed a control panel with a 3phase 2.5mmsq supply. There was a 16A single phase breaker on each live. His argument was that this arrangement would put 3x 16A=48A of load on the Neutral (2.5mmsq) wire. To prove he was right he even rang his mate, who was a lead in Intel, and they both were in agreement on this. Good guy though.
The neutral wire is the return path for unbalanced current in an AC circuit. It is not additive, it is subtractive. Put an amp clamp on the neutral wire of a nominal load, and you’ll even see that the current on the neutral will be equal to the current on the line wire.
@@PORTEnSious yes wire size affects current flow as smaller wires can introduce greater resistant. But this is effectively in series so affects current through the whole of that circuit. Same way an appliance would affect current. V=I/R But that doesn't really affect the topic in the video. As what ever current passes still follows the rules they described. Hope that helps
To be fair if it was the same phase they'd have been right. I think some brains just don't like coping with multiple phases. You'd hope better from an old boy though. 😁 They've had AC since Tesla lol
@@PORTEnSious Wire size doesn’t limit current flow, but depending on the size of the load vs. the undersized wire, what will happen is the wire will not be able to dissipate the heat generated quickly enough, and will cause rapid deterioration of the conductor insulation. Also what can happen is the the wire itself can melt, most likely at the point of termination closest to the load. A real life example would be a water heater that pulls 23 amps and is being fed from a 30A breaker @ 240V, but instead of using #10 AWG copper wire (which is rated for 30A using the 60°C in the NEC ampacity table 310.16 for residential applications). For the sake of this example, the installer uses #14 AWG copper for this installation which using the 60°C table of NEC Art.310.16, is rated for 15A maximum. In this situation, you have 23A running through wire that is rated for 15A maximum. In this install, you would definitely find overheating, burnt insulation, damage at the breaker and at the water heater disconnect switch, or directly at the water heater itself. One thing I forgot to mention is the ampacities mentioned are maximums for periods of time 3 hours or less. There are specific rules in the NEC I don’t have time to mention, but generally if a load is intended to be ran for 3 hours or more at any given time, it is not supposed to exceed 80% of the breaker capacity. For example, if a shop heater is rated to draw 24A, the breaker MUST be rated for 30A (30X.80=24A).
This is exactly what I was wondering for a while now so thank you for explaining. I knew three phase motors didn't need the neutral because it was a balanced load but for some reason it never occurred to me that heaters would also work the same for some odd reason. Clever stuff.
That's the reason the 400V continuous flow water heaters with 22 or 24kW, that are popular here in Germany for electric water heating for showers, don't require a neutral at all. In most cases we still install a five core cable. The five core NYM-J is only 1€ per meter more expensive than the four core one. Neutral isn't connected of course, but still available if it would be required in the future.
It’s a really good idea to pull the neutral always for future use, here in Finland it used to be acceptable to wire 3-phase sockets with no neutral, if they were intended for a large machine, it’s really fun when you rock up with a portable distribution board to only find that they left out the neutral. And it’s no fun either to have to install transformers for 400/230 just to get some new-fangled boiler with a control board that needs a neutral working. :)
@@sstorholm Not the motor itself, but eventually the electronics that regulate the speed of the motor. And maybe contactors if you want to reverse the direction of rotation. And also possible, the future replacement requires for other reasons 230V in addition to 400V. Unlikely in industrial applications, but not unthinkable, and in domestic applications this can always happen. I remember my grandparents had a Perilex socket outlet (three-phase socket outlet )in their bathroom for the washing machine. The plug always "wandered" from the old to the new washing machine because it was the old rare 25A version.
@@sstorholmThe motor does not, but the control circuit may. Many EVs that insist on seeing a Neutral. A 1-phase Renault ZOE wil not charge unless one of the wires are a true Neutral and you need a 230/230V transformer with one of the secondary wires connected to ground to charge your car!
Your video on your “Joe Robinson” channel on this same subject (a few years ago) was the moment the penny dropped for me! Very well explained Joe & @efixx👏
Interesting demo. Will be valuable for all those domestic sparks that never get involved with three phase systems. Came across a large lighting circuit like this some time ago, gave me a bit of a head scratch till I realised that the neutral current will never exceed the current of one phase
Those domestic sparks that have only undertaken the domestic installation courses are not allowed to do 3 phase work (in that they are not allowed to do industrial installations). And if people are qualified to do industrial electrical installations then they have been trained in 3 phase and should not need this video.
You woke up on the wrong side of the bed Dean? The video could be helpful for people who are in the process of qualifying for carrying out industrial installation work? 🤷
Do you mean "domestic spark from UK" only. All other domestic sparks around the UK (and commonwealth and U.S.A. ) use three phase connection to every house/garage/shed/fabric hall since Siemens & Halske around 1880 use 3phase AC and build the generators around the world!
I challenge you to actually disconnect the neutrals with running equipment 🙂 Actually that would be a *really* bad idea. Happened at work once in the distribution board (faulty installation, took a couple of years to fail after the building was constructed). The insurance claim was I believe in seven figures and we were super lucky the building was not burnt down. Helped that the fire station was just across the road and they responded in under 90 seconds.
@@efixx For those that don't realize no neutral and all the lives float to 415V AC. The fire was started when the 400V rated capacitor in the power supply of a PC decided that being at 580V (415*sqrt(2)) was not good and flames came out the back of the PC (the slowmo guys have some nice footage of capacitors giving way), and set alight to the noticeboard behind (this is why the mains smoothing capacitor in a SMPS should be rated for 600V). The reason for the really high insurance claim was this was a biosciences lab and at lot of the very expensive equipment didn't take kindly to the 415V AC feed to them.
If you had just one heater and nothing else there would be no current flowing. If you had two heaters each 80 ohm (720 W) you would have 415 V over 160 ohm. That is 2.6 A and 1080 W (540 W each). That is if you have three identical resistors on a star connection with the neutral is connecting one reduces power by a third and two by 2/3. If you do not have a neutral then disconnecting one reduces power by 50% and two by 100%. The real problem is that if you have some other loads in parallel like an incandescent bulb with 960 ohm. If it if gets in series with the 80 ohm heater at 415 V it gets 383 volts, i.e. it gets 2.5 x the power and will not last long. If you disconnect the neutral upstream from the main panel then the voltage in it gets to the earth wire.
Had the neutral at the substation vanish with thieves, and the phases started to diverge on all the houses. Had the UPS start to warn about overvoltage, so measured mains at 270VAC. Immediately turned off all loads, and turned off the mains to the entire home as well, then went to the meter room and checked phase voltages. One was at 270VAC, one was around 230VAC, and the third was around 170VAC. Turned off the entire building, and got on the phone to the metro about a loss of neutral at the substation. Took them most of a day to fix it up, and they came back the next night to do it again, so they put up the steel doors instead of the wood, and welded all the cable access covers on, that they used to strip the SWA feeder cables leading to the street.
This is spot on . I think most people missed the fact that , even though you don’t need neutral , and depending on what you are running , and in this case 3 units 1 phase heater: it is safer to run a neutral at 1/3rd the max amp capacity , in this case and if in the event if one of the 1st phase heater encounters problems .
It would appear from the video that you need the neutral to be the same size as the phase conductors, as if one heater fails you need to be able to carry the full rated current of the phase conductor.
Nice video Funfact In Norway we have been running our mains network for 100 yrs with no neutral! Neutral is not absolutely needed. With no neutral and the loads in a dela konfiguration, that is all loads are connected between live 230V wires, the return currents ‘fines its way’ via the other wires. After 1995 all new houses in new areas are connected via 3-phase 230/400V TN networks, now with a neutral wire.
Thanks for the current measurement on the neutral with the two loads on L1 and L2. Both because it's not intuitive, and will force me to interpret the KCL and the desmos graph on my own as an "exercise for the reader". Where in the circuit are the neutrals of each of the individual phases physically connected? Within each of the outlets on that piece of plywood? The diagram at 5:36 shows the conceptual drawing; but where is are the physical connections of that neutral in the Y-config?
Always remember a site we took over from a previous company. They told the customer that all the 3 phase circuits had no neutrals and they all needed rewiring… just showed lack of knowledge on the subject. Maybe more should be taught about things like this before people are let out on the wide world 😅 Neutral in a 3phase is generally found if the item has other elements eg control panels and other single phase components with in the 3phase item. Great video guys!
I've come to the conclusion that I am 'Electro-blind' !!! I love videos like this one and it is extremely well presented but I just can't get to grips with the physics of electricity lol. Keep up the good work and I'll just be happy I can change a 3 pin plug!
Many moons ago I was working in a computer factory (not as electrician :) ) when a cloud of acrid smoke tripped the fire alarms. Turns out the busbar chamber had a reduced size neutral, as the load was considered pretty well balanced. Ad Hoc alterations had seriously unbalanced the system and the neutral was glowing red hot with all it's PVC insulation burnt off! Turned off and fixed, with half a day's production lost, but could have had much more serious consequences.
The neutral over heated due to harmonics. Most times it is the 3 rd harmonic. It is a result of having loads that are non linear to current. That is variable frequency drives, computers, discharge lighting etc.
Great video. Well done. But it is clouding up the subject a bit. Of course, using three phase for single phase devices happens all the time, but single phase devices use one two hot lines. 120V and 277V devices use one hot line and neutral. 208V and 240V could be either one hot line and neutral or two hot lines and 480V is always two hot lines (all examples are single phase). I would like to see this using a single-phase supply, L1 of the 240V single phase supply wired to all three heaters in parallel, then check the neutral amps as each heater gets energized. A previous comment said the standard residential supply is two phase because of the two hot lines. That is wrong. The standard residential supply is 240 Volt, Single Phase. Best Wishes. Hope you keep up the good work.
Hello, I just looked up this information and found your channel. My dad is an (old time, retired) electrician and has taught me to do basic electric work. I replaced a ceiling outlet (lighting) and instead of turning off the circuit, I just turned off the outlet as it's and old house and it's supposed to only have 2 connections (phase + neutral, no earthing) in most places. Turning off the phase should do the trick, and even if there is some leakage, it should only tingle. I verified everything with a basic "glow lamp" style seeker. No phases. And then verified with a multimeter - No current flow from L1 to Neutral. However, I noticed the neutral had 2 wires attached. That was peculiar,but I thought it might just be sharing a neutral with some other light or WTF knows? It shouldn't be an issue. When I disconnected the L1 from the ceiling outlet = no issue. When I disconnected the neutrals, small spark and the lighting on the walls in that area of the living room (supplied by wall outlets) turned off. Interesting. I shat my pants, stepped down from the ladder, took a moment to check myself, wondered why the RCD didn't trip (obivously it only sparked, didn't touch me in hindsight) and then turned off the entire house main feed. I'm not messing around anymore when neutrals and phases are mixed around everywhere. Anyway, I told my dad and he refused the possibility of electricity in a neutral. I told him electricity is defined as a difference in charge, and there should be current flowing return in the neutral. Now I understand it better, and I'll show him this video. (Also, I'm the EU with a proper RCD and I use VDE tools with the 1-hand-behind-the-back principle when doing semi-stupid shit like this. Worst case is going to be a zap until the 30ma RCD cuts out)
So when you had two heaters connected and measured the current on the neutral, it wasn't the same as L1 + L2 because it was partially mitigated by the opposing phases, but not completely as it was when you activated the third heater? - fascinating.
It's simple. The 3 phasers are vector quantities and therefore add up to a resultant vector in the neutral depending on the magnitude and phase displacement. Electricians were taught this as part of their apprenticeship in my day...
Very interesting and well explained. However, if the incoming neutral becomes disconnected as I have experienced at a heritage railway, where the unbalanced loads caused serious problems with some devices burning out and other loads suffering low voltage. There seems to be no protection against such a problem and the supply company sometimes won't admit there is a fault.
I would clarify slightly in your eater example, if you disconnected the 3 individual neutrals all 3 heaters would switch off but disconnecting the common point they would run in a star configuration. I know most viewers will know thats whats happening but just for clarities sake.
@@brianhewitt8618 star points are an interesting thing as is generator earthing which is a related subject. Not sure if efixx will cover them but maybe sparkyninja?
Hi what is be the most likely cause of over-voltage in a 3 phase system? One of the phase was found with voltage of 385V and it tripped the CBs and caused damage to equipment that were connected to the phase.
Apprentice here. Excellent video, thank you. Only problem I see here is that, most (Yank) electricians have no idea what the sine waves represent, on the X & Y coordinates. It’s just a bunch of squiggly lines. It would be helpful if you clarified it, more than briefly mentioning that it’s current (w/respect to time) so viewers can fully grasp what’s going on in the graph.
How do you know most “Yanks” do not know what sine waves represent? Is it because you watch videos of people that say, “I’m not an electrician, so don’t do what I do” and show them working on 120/240 volt single phase electric system?
The heaters are rated at 230vac input. Line to line voltage is 400vac. Square root of 3 (phase system) is 1.732 and is always applied to power calculations. 400vac over 1.732 is 230vac, which would be measured between any line and the common point. 3 phase resistive load; Ib = P/Vx1.732
Hi, great video just have one question on the neutral currents . In a 3-phase load I think i understand the concept of how the appliance uses the other 2 phases as a return path as opposed to the neutral. However in a situation such as in this video where 3 separate single phase loads are connected. How can the appliances use L2 or L3 as a return path? If the neutral were to be disconnected then surely there would only be 1 line conductor to each appliance? How would the appliances continue to operate if the other phases are not present at the appliance to act as a return path? It seems like I’m missing something here but I’m just scratching my head at the idea of an appliance operating with only one single conductor at point of connection.. hoping you guys can help me on this one hope I’ve made the question understandable!
you're probably thinking that all 3 currents at any given moment are coming out the source. This is impossible in 3 phase. What is really happening is, at one moment in time, only TWO phases have current going out, and combine (vectorially) to return on the 3rd phase. For example, at one moment, A and B going out and combine to return on C. Next moment, A and C going out, and combine to return on B. Then next moment, B and C are going out and combine to return on A. And repeats. Of course this is in the context of a balanced circuit. Hope this clear things up
A question I would like to ask to follow up on your video. On my home immersion heater that needed replacing the neutral wire became over heated where the insulation had melted at the terminal. I have also seen this same thing on an electrical shower and oven. Why does the neutral wire show signs of burning but not the live wire?
The only reason that the wire would overheat is likely to be increased resistance at the connection terminal, resulting in heat generation. The current in the supply wire and neutral wire would be the same value, so if the supply wire is not overheated the supply terminal would be low or virtually y no resistance.
@@alanwhitfield1907 I agree but it always seems to be the neutral wire that gets charred, not the live wire, so there must be some thing more to this. I have seen accounts in other forums about this situation of the neutral wiring showing signs of over heating and not the live as well so it is a bit of a puzzle as to find some sort of explanation why this happening.
@@mightymax232 In all the cases i've seen, and theres a lot, the neutral burns because its loose. I have no idea why electricians cannot tighten them the same as lives.
This can also happen when the 3 live wires are not connected to 3 different phases. Then loads on the same phase combine, and because they have twice the copper for L than N...
Yo, this is magic stuff 😍 Iam just rolling into big buildings with 3 phase ac and hi power pumps and motors I'll stick to this channel Fwy, I imagined that it has to do with the 3 phase, if you would add up the 3 loads trough the neutral it should be way bigger than 2.5 2 waves can cancel each other out. Dad was a guitarist 😅
do the same with 3 x non-PFC power supplies (like your laptop's PSU) Even when all lines are balanced, you shall see a current in the neutral. The 3rd current harmonics are summed up in the neutral
If you're interested in electricity kirchoffs law is pretty interesting as is thevanins theory, not super heavy in maths but worth a look in my opinion
I am little confused, i think it won't work if you disconnect neutral from the point where three neutrals meeting, like if there's only a phase wire connected in the heater without their interconnection?
They are talking about disconnecting the neutral coming in from the transformer. The neutrals from equipment still connected together on neutral bar. Or a neutral out to a junction box that all three are connected to and removing that connection. Best wishes, Kevin
You are confusing current and voltage. You cannot feel the current that flows in the wire (unless it is so high that it makes the wire hot). You can feel only the current that goes through you. If you touch the neutral there is no voltage so no current flows through you. The idiots who say: "It is not the voltage, it is the current" do extreme havoc for understanding.
At 5:21 , but if you remove neutral, the circuit would be incomplete and no current would flow , especially when you have a faulty current protection installed.
Why was the current the same on the neutral when two heaters were hooked up. If you explained that I missed it. Also how does current flow without the neutral connected. I know 220 doesn't have a neutral but unless Im mistaken each leg reverses acting like a neutral.
The 3Ø RCD is smart, if the L1 (5A) L2 (5A) L3 (5A), RCD KNOW the neutral must be zero. If L1 (5A) L2 (0A) L3 (0A), RCD KNOW the neutral must be 5A. -------- And 1Ø RCD (2P RCD) work as curren Of the Phase = curren of neutral -------- But do you know this video all Load same Power Factor so in reality of there three loaded same current but they not same Power Factor the neutral will be have current
Question from a layman. If current is flowing thru the neutral circuit why can't you recycle or re-use it, & does it "return" to the supplier or could you feed it into a battery or transformer intercept without "consuming" any more celectricity ?
Different when it comes to Harmonic distortion, particularly the 3rd harmonic. These harmonics are the result of nonlinear loads that convert AC line voltage to DC, i.e. frequency converters, PCs etc. This causes a much higher current to flow in the neutral even in a balanced designed system, thus needing to install Active or passive harmonic filters to take them out and balance the load again or simply oversizing the neutral conductor to exceed the phase wiring by 50% to accommodate the higher current
Yes, in forward phase theatrical lighting systems, neutral over-current can be a big problem! Basically, at certain settings, the dimmers may all be drawing current near the end of the half-wave so there is no cancellation. The result is that the neutral conductor is carrying the highest current load. In the US, NEC requires such systems to oversize the neutral conductor. As harmonic filters would trow of the Zero-Cross Detectors in the dimmers, oversize is the only solution.
In the US, high harmonic loads are required to have the neutrals doubled in size to handle higher amperes on the neutrals. Special transformers are also made. Best wishes, Kevin
PME systems (TN-C-S) effectively remove (minimise is more accurate) any current from the Neutral in the DNO's supply side network but obviously that is not the case in the customer's Consumer Unit
With each customer on a TN-C-S system the current from the Line to the Neutral is the same. However, over a large number of such customers on the three separate "Phases" the total/residual current on the "Neutral" conductor will be quite small - hopefully, zero.
I have a question, if in 2 phase circuit you have exact the same current in the neutral is no current used in consumer? and if so why we pay for the production of current and not just transport and distribution.
You meant single phase? Two phase has not been used for a century. The current is not consumed. Think about a saw. Does the wood consume the saw so that once you push it in, nothing comes from the other side? I do not get where the idea that current is consumed comes from. Maybe it is confusing current and voltage. Nobody forces you to pay for the electricity. If you think your life is better without then go ahead and live without. Your question is at the level : why do I pay for the barber when he gets by hair. you pay all the nice things the electricity brings you.
More electricians' questions answered 👉 ua-cam.com/play/PLmWOIPxaBWH7XMcW07S7CTQM9G-M1GHzc.html
Actually, technically No. Current doesn't flow in a conductor, it flows around the conductor, or so i was taught at trade school. Current in the neutral must equal the current in the active, how else does an ELCB work!
Try a star connected 3 ph motor
Don't know how UK electric works other than that you lot use 50 Hz instead of 60 Hz, but in the US you can't have 3 different devices share 1 neutral with 3 phase power. It used to be allowed, but the NEC was changed in 2014 I think. It's a lot of fun trying to fish 2 new neutrals in the old conduit to upgrade old buildings. (not)
For fear of undiscovered nicks/shorts when the power is turned back on, oftentimes we just hook new wire with additional neutrals to the old, and use the old for the pull line to install the new and then recycle the old.
A couple of gotchas with 3 phase neutral: 1) If there is a fault the absence of a neutral connection can allow overvoltage on the phase conductors without tripping breakers and the risk of shock or fire in any connected loads and 2) someone might connect a 3 phase + neutral appliance like an industrial heater to single phase power, joining all 3 phases together and tripleing the current in the neutral. Best case the neutral wire burns out, worst case the building burns to the ground.
@@markhill9275 OMG OMG OMG....Current doesn't flow in a conductor, it flows around the conductor,???? matter, atoms, electrons, neutrons... learn your lessons again
I just discovered this channel and I love it. I´m a Electrical and Computer Engineering student and love all things related to power grids and house installations, your explanations are more on a "practical" rather than theoretical approach and I just find it much easier to comprehend. Amazing work!
Cheers Hugo
An outstanding presentation. I am a retired electrician and most of my work was done on 480 VAC three phase control circuits. I worked with maintaining large 50+ horsepower 2-speed motors and things like that. I also worked with DC traction elevator motors. I found it to be very enjoyable work. Your presentation is spot on!! I just subscribed so I will be seeing more of you. Cheers!
That's so clear now ! 😀 Also, explains why the neutral doesn't have a bigger cross section cable!
This could also be drawn up as vectors. The phases are 120 degrees out of phase, a balanced load drawn as vectors would also show 0amps, and an unbalanced load would result in a vector length equal to the amps drawn in the neutral. That's how I learned it and understood it best in school, but this was also a great explanation! Nice and simple, keep it up! :)
For anyone having trouble envisioning this, it's a bit easier if you start with something like American (two phase) house wiring, which comes in from the pole transformer as 240V, but with a center-tapped neutral wire. That means that neutral to either live conductor is 120V, so you basically have two 120V circuits, but each one is 180 degrees out of phase with the other (and typically half of the house circuits will be wired to one side and the other half to the other side).
Because of this, if you need more than 120V for some appliances (such as many stoves, water heaters, EV chargers, etc), you can just connect them across the two different "live" wires to get total of 240V instead. In that case, you don't need the neutral wire, because all of the current going in on one side is balanced by the (exactly opposite) phase on the other wire going out.
But it also means that on the neutral line going back to the pole, there may or may not be a lot of current, depending on how well the loads on the different house circuits are balanced. If you've got the same amount of stuff going on one half as on the other half, then all of the current will go "in" from live A to neutral, then from neutral to live B and back out again, and there will be no net current on the neutral line. However, if there's more load on the A side than the B side (or vice-versa), then all of that excess needs to go back out the neutral instead.
Thanks for this explanation on the US voltage supply.
FFS! If you have trouble envisioning it then go back and re do your entire electrical training!
It's that basic a question. And if you don't know the answer to it, you shouldn't be anywhere near mains electrical installations, even if you are "qualified". Because for you not to know the answer means that: 1. You have forgotten your basic electrical education, and 2. That you don't really understand electricity.
180deg across the phases. You sure about that?
@@greenpedal370 Yes, he is quite correct about their being 180 degree phase shift between the two lines in the US split phase system.
If you know enough about sine waves and electricity, you will realise that 180 degrees is the only way that is possible.
If you think he is wrong because you think it should be 120 degrees, then that is certainly incorrect. 120 degrees phase shift between phase conductors only occurs in 3 phase systems. And that is because they physically position coils around in the generator at 120 degrees around the rotor.
In the US split phase system, the phase signals that are distributed to consumers do not originate from the power station and generator, they are produced by the down stream distribution former and is a result of how the secondary windings are connected. It's very different to 3 phase.
wow that explanation made my brain hurt
It's good to b reminded of stuff like this, especially after not having to think about it in a long time.
Yeah, I did learn this back when doing my C&G part 1, 2, 3.
It was really nice to see it all again in video format. I think we did it all in formulas back then.
Great explanation Joe.
Cheers Sergio!
I was trying to explain this to a cocky technician, who was 15 years senior to me. He was having none of it. I designed a control panel with a 3phase 2.5mmsq supply. There was a 16A single phase breaker on each live. His argument was that this arrangement would put 3x 16A=48A of load on the Neutral (2.5mmsq) wire. To prove he was right he even rang his mate, who was a lead in Intel, and they both were in agreement on this. Good guy though.
The neutral wire is the return path for unbalanced current in an AC circuit. It is not additive, it is subtractive.
Put an amp clamp on the neutral wire of a nominal load, and you’ll even see that the current on the neutral will be equal to the current on the line wire.
Doesn't wire size limit current flow ??
@@PORTEnSious yes wire size affects current flow as smaller wires can introduce greater resistant. But this is effectively in series so affects current through the whole of that circuit. Same way an appliance would affect current. V=I/R
But that doesn't really affect the topic in the video. As what ever current passes still follows the rules they described.
Hope that helps
To be fair if it was the same phase they'd have been right.
I think some brains just don't like coping with multiple phases.
You'd hope better from an old boy though. 😁 They've had AC since Tesla lol
@@PORTEnSious Wire size doesn’t limit current flow, but depending on the size of the load vs. the undersized wire, what will happen is the wire will not be able to dissipate the heat generated quickly enough, and will cause rapid deterioration of the conductor insulation. Also what can happen is the the wire itself can melt, most likely at the point of termination closest to the load.
A real life example would be a water heater that pulls 23 amps and is being fed from a 30A breaker @ 240V, but instead of using #10 AWG copper wire (which is rated for 30A using the 60°C in the NEC ampacity table 310.16 for residential applications). For the sake of this example, the installer uses #14 AWG copper for this installation which using the 60°C table of NEC Art.310.16, is rated for 15A maximum.
In this situation, you have 23A running through wire that is rated for 15A maximum. In this install, you would definitely find overheating, burnt insulation, damage at the breaker and at the water heater disconnect switch, or directly at the water heater itself.
One thing I forgot to mention is the ampacities mentioned are maximums for periods of time 3 hours or less. There are specific rules in the NEC I don’t have time to mention, but generally if a load is intended to be ran for 3 hours or more at any given time, it is not supposed to exceed 80% of the breaker capacity. For example, if a shop heater is rated to draw 24A, the breaker MUST be rated for 30A (30X.80=24A).
This is exactly what I was wondering for a while now so thank you for explaining. I knew three phase motors didn't need the neutral because it was a balanced load but for some reason it never occurred to me that heaters would also work the same for some odd reason. Clever stuff.
I knew this BUT you actually found a way to test and teach the theory. GREAT
JR
That's the reason the 400V continuous flow water heaters with 22 or 24kW, that are popular here in Germany for electric water heating for showers, don't require a neutral at all. In most cases we still install a five core cable. The five core NYM-J is only 1€ per meter more expensive than the four core one. Neutral isn't connected of course, but still available if it would be required in the future.
It’s a really good idea to pull the neutral always for future use, here in Finland it used to be acceptable to wire 3-phase sockets with no neutral, if they were intended for a large machine, it’s really fun when you rock up with a portable distribution board to only find that they left out the neutral. And it’s no fun either to have to install transformers for 400/230 just to get some new-fangled boiler with a control board that needs a neutral working. :)
@@sstorholm Or you install another motor, some require a neutral just to start, and while running it's disconnected.
@@Marcel_Germann What sort of abomination of a 3-phase motor requires a neutral to start?
@@sstorholm Not the motor itself, but eventually the electronics that regulate the speed of the motor. And maybe contactors if you want to reverse the direction of rotation.
And also possible, the future replacement requires for other reasons 230V in addition to 400V. Unlikely in industrial applications, but not unthinkable, and in domestic applications this can always happen. I remember my grandparents had a Perilex socket outlet (three-phase socket outlet )in their bathroom for the washing machine. The plug always "wandered" from the old to the new washing machine because it was the old rare 25A version.
@@sstorholmThe motor does not, but the control circuit may. Many EVs that insist on seeing a Neutral. A 1-phase Renault ZOE wil not charge unless one of the wires are a true Neutral and you need a 230/230V transformer with one of the secondary wires connected to ground to charge your car!
Mind blown, but it all made total sense when you showed the wave form graph 👍
Great video and practical example of some basic electrodynamics, much appreciated
Your video on your “Joe Robinson” channel on this same subject (a few years ago) was the moment the penny dropped for me! Very well explained Joe & @efixx👏
Interesting demo. Will be valuable for all those domestic sparks that never get involved with three phase systems. Came across a large lighting circuit like this some time ago, gave me a bit of a head scratch till I realised that the neutral current will never exceed the current of one phase
Those domestic sparks that have only undertaken the domestic installation courses are not allowed to do 3 phase work (in that they are not allowed to do industrial installations).
And if people are qualified to do industrial electrical installations then they have been trained in 3 phase and should not need this video.
You woke up on the wrong side of the bed Dean? The video could be helpful for people who are in the process of qualifying for carrying out industrial installation work? 🤷
@@efixx quite agree there are plenty of time served industrial engineers that I know that would have to head scratch about this one
@@deang5622 in many parts of the world its normal to have 3 phase power in your home, even in apartments...
Do you mean "domestic spark from UK" only. All other domestic sparks around the UK (and commonwealth and U.S.A. ) use three phase connection to every house/garage/shed/fabric hall since Siemens & Halske around 1880 use 3phase AC and build the generators around the world!
I challenge you to actually disconnect the neutrals with running equipment 🙂 Actually that would be a *really* bad idea. Happened at work once in the distribution board (faulty installation, took a couple of years to fail after the building was constructed). The insurance claim was I believe in seven figures and we were super lucky the building was not burnt down. Helped that the fire station was just across the road and they responded in under 90 seconds.
Used to do this on a similar experiment for my learners...
@@efixx For those that don't realize no neutral and all the lives float to 415V AC. The fire was started when the 400V rated capacitor in the power supply of a PC decided that being at 580V (415*sqrt(2)) was not good and flames came out the back of the PC (the slowmo guys have some nice footage of capacitors giving way), and set alight to the noticeboard behind (this is why the mains smoothing capacitor in a SMPS should be rated for 600V). The reason for the really high insurance claim was this was a biosciences lab and at lot of the very expensive equipment didn't take kindly to the 415V AC feed to them.
If it was unbalanced, the current would be present at the end of the disconnected Neutral. The equipment would look dead, right?
If you had just one heater and nothing else there would be no current flowing. If you had two heaters each 80 ohm (720 W) you would have 415 V over 160 ohm. That is 2.6 A and 1080 W (540 W each). That is if you have three identical resistors on a star connection with the neutral is connecting one reduces power by a third and two by 2/3. If you do not have a neutral then disconnecting one reduces power by 50% and two by 100%.
The real problem is that if you have some other loads in parallel like an incandescent bulb with 960 ohm. If it if gets in series with the 80 ohm heater at 415 V it gets 383 volts, i.e. it gets 2.5 x the power and will not last long.
If you disconnect the neutral upstream from the main panel then the voltage in it gets to the earth wire.
Had the neutral at the substation vanish with thieves, and the phases started to diverge on all the houses. Had the UPS start to warn about overvoltage, so measured mains at 270VAC. Immediately turned off all loads, and turned off the mains to the entire home as well, then went to the meter room and checked phase voltages. One was at 270VAC, one was around 230VAC, and the third was around 170VAC. Turned off the entire building, and got on the phone to the metro about a loss of neutral at the substation. Took them most of a day to fix it up, and they came back the next night to do it again, so they put up the steel doors instead of the wood, and welded all the cable access covers on, that they used to strip the SWA feeder cables leading to the street.
Very well explained from average person point of view.
THANK YOU GUYS
My father taught me 3 phase theory 42 years ago. I never needed it but I see I still remember it correctly.
You are absolutely amazing! I wish ( and I sincerely mean this) I had this tutorial video when I was doing my A levels!
This is spot on . I think most people missed the fact that , even though you don’t need neutral , and depending on what you are running , and in this case 3 units 1 phase heater: it is safer to run a neutral at 1/3rd the max amp capacity , in this case and if in the event if one of the 1st phase heater encounters problems .
It would appear from the video that you need the neutral to be the same size as the phase conductors, as if one heater fails you need to be able to carry the full rated current of the phase conductor.
Well if you had no neutral and then disconnected one of the heaters the power would be reduced by half. With a neutral it will be reduced by a third.
Thanks, this is beautifully explained and exactly the information I needed for my 3ph to 1ph (3 outlet) extension cord.
Nice video
Funfact
In Norway we have been running our mains network for 100 yrs with no neutral! Neutral is not absolutely needed. With no neutral and the loads in a dela konfiguration, that is all loads are connected between live 230V wires, the return currents ‘fines its way’ via the other wires. After 1995 all new houses in new areas are connected via 3-phase 230/400V TN networks, now with a neutral wire.
Great demonstration. Thanks. I know it but it is nice to hear/see it again.
1:47 - lovely explanation of a DC circuit 😉
But the point still stands.
Hats off to you sir ... really thank you for the simplicity ..
Wow, I’ve been looking for this. Thank you
I received my new TIS voltage indicator today thank you eFIXX. It’s a great bit of kit , very much appreciated.
Great to hear!
Thanks for the current measurement on the neutral with the two loads on L1 and L2. Both because it's not intuitive, and will force me to interpret the KCL and the desmos graph on my own as an "exercise for the reader". Where in the circuit are the neutrals of each of the individual phases physically connected? Within each of the outlets on that piece of plywood? The diagram at 5:36 shows the conceptual drawing; but where is are the physical connections of that neutral in the Y-config?
I really resinate with your method of Instruction. a big thank you!
Always remember a site we took over from a previous company. They told the customer that all the 3 phase circuits had no neutrals and they all needed rewiring… just showed lack of knowledge on the subject.
Maybe more should be taught about things like this before people are let out on the wide world 😅
Neutral in a 3phase is generally found if the item has other elements eg control panels and other single phase components with in the 3phase item.
Great video guys!
He, he. Norway has been running 3-phase systems with no neutral for 100 yrs. All appliances are connected in delta style between live 230V wires.
Well said very easy to understand when you visualize it this way
This video just blew my mind. Great information and really clearly presented.
Now that I found very interesting and informative thank you Joe excellent explanation.
Fantastic video as always Joe 👍❤️
very nice demonstration of Kirchhoff's current Law
Brilliant explanation
Thanks
I've come to the conclusion that I am 'Electro-blind' !!! I love videos like this one and it is extremely well presented but I just can't get to grips with the physics of electricity lol. Keep up the good work and I'll just be happy I can change a 3 pin plug!
🤯 Wow, that was explained very well. 👍🏽
Excellent presentation
Thanks
Many moons ago I was working in a computer factory (not as electrician :) ) when a cloud of acrid smoke tripped the fire alarms. Turns out the busbar chamber had a reduced size neutral, as the load was considered pretty well balanced. Ad Hoc alterations had seriously unbalanced the system and the neutral was glowing red hot with all it's PVC insulation burnt off! Turned off and fixed, with half a day's production lost, but could have had much more serious consequences.
The neutral over heated due to harmonics. Most times it is the 3 rd harmonic. It is a result of having loads that are non linear to current. That is variable frequency drives, computers, discharge lighting etc.
Mist cleared for me . Thank you
Very nice practically explained
Gray video and great explanation. Big thank you 👍🏼
Brilliantly explained as usual thanks 👍👍
Fun to watch, when you already know why and he explains it well :)
That's an excellent explanation .being a growatt service engineer, I was wondering why the ongrid inverter works fine without neutral.
Hi .i just noticed 80v between neutral and disconnected earth from the origin. Please advise
Wonderful explanation . Thanks.
Great video. Well done. But it is clouding up the subject a bit. Of course, using three phase for single phase devices happens all the time, but single phase devices use one two hot lines. 120V and 277V devices use one hot line and neutral. 208V and 240V could be either one hot line and neutral or two hot lines and 480V is always two hot lines (all examples are single phase). I would like to see this using a single-phase supply, L1 of the 240V single phase supply wired to all three heaters in parallel, then check the neutral amps as each heater gets energized. A previous comment said the standard residential supply is two phase because of the two hot lines. That is wrong. The standard residential supply is 240 Volt, Single Phase. Best Wishes. Hope you keep up the good work.
Great Video, very helpful. Thank you guys!
Hello, I just looked up this information and found your channel.
My dad is an (old time, retired) electrician and has taught me to do basic electric work.
I replaced a ceiling outlet (lighting) and instead of turning off the circuit, I just turned off the outlet as it's and old house and it's supposed to only have 2 connections (phase + neutral, no earthing) in most places. Turning off the phase should do the trick, and even if there is some leakage, it should only tingle. I verified everything with a basic "glow lamp" style seeker. No phases. And then verified with a multimeter - No current flow from L1 to Neutral.
However, I noticed the neutral had 2 wires attached. That was peculiar,but I thought it might just be sharing a neutral with some other light or WTF knows? It shouldn't be an issue.
When I disconnected the L1 from the ceiling outlet = no issue.
When I disconnected the neutrals, small spark and the lighting on the walls in that area of the living room (supplied by wall outlets) turned off.
Interesting. I shat my pants, stepped down from the ladder, took a moment to check myself, wondered why the RCD didn't trip (obivously it only sparked, didn't touch me in hindsight) and then turned off the entire house main feed. I'm not messing around anymore when neutrals and phases are mixed around everywhere.
Anyway, I told my dad and he refused the possibility of electricity in a neutral. I told him electricity is defined as a difference in charge, and there should be current flowing return in the neutral.
Now I understand it better, and I'll show him this video.
(Also, I'm the EU with a proper RCD and I use VDE tools with the 1-hand-behind-the-back principle when doing semi-stupid shit like this. Worst case is going to be a zap until the 30ma RCD cuts out)
So when you had two heaters connected and measured the current on the neutral, it wasn't the same as L1 + L2 because it was partially mitigated by the opposing phases, but not completely as it was when you activated the third heater? - fascinating.
Very good video and information. Thanks👍🏻
Please explain if you have time, why neutral to ground at a receptacle measures a couple volts if at main panel they are bonded and should be 0?
Very good explanation. Thanks
Nice video, very informative
It's simple. The 3 phasers are vector quantities and therefore add up to a resultant vector in the neutral depending on the magnitude and phase displacement. Electricians were taught this as part of their apprenticeship in my day...
Very interesting and well explained. However, if the incoming neutral becomes disconnected as I have experienced at a heritage railway, where the unbalanced loads caused serious problems with some devices burning out and other loads suffering low voltage. There seems to be no protection against such a problem and the supply company sometimes won't admit there is a fault.
Loss of the neutral is a serious issue. In single phase it does not give strange voltages but you'll get the full voltage at the equipment cases.
Very interesting video as always. Love this channel 🙌
Thanks very much for your time and effort
A good demonstration for non Sparky’s to understand 👍
I would clarify slightly in your eater example, if you disconnected the 3 individual neutrals all 3 heaters would switch off but disconnecting the common point they would run in a star configuration. I know most viewers will know thats whats happening but just for clarities sake.
it would be good to see a video on that 👍
@@brianhewitt8618 star points are an interesting thing as is generator earthing which is a related subject. Not sure if efixx will cover them but maybe sparkyninja?
Hi what is be the most likely cause of over-voltage in a 3 phase system? One of the phase was found with voltage of 385V and it tripped the CBs and caused damage to equipment that were connected to the phase.
Very good explanation with examples. 👍👍👍👍👍
Great Explanation 😍
great explanations.
great channel
Subscribed! Very nice and informative! thanks!
Another great video Joe 👍
Apprentice here. Excellent video, thank you. Only problem I see here is that, most (Yank) electricians have no idea what the sine waves represent, on the X & Y coordinates. It’s just a bunch of squiggly lines. It would be helpful if you clarified it, more than briefly mentioning that it’s current (w/respect to time) so viewers can fully grasp what’s going on in the graph.
How do you know most “Yanks” do not know what sine waves represent? Is it because you watch videos of people that say, “I’m not an electrician, so don’t do what I do” and show them working on 120/240 volt single phase electric system?
The heaters are rated at 230vac input. Line to line voltage is 400vac. Square root of 3 (phase system) is 1.732 and is always applied to power calculations. 400vac over 1.732 is 230vac, which would be measured between any line and the common point. 3 phase resistive load; Ib = P/Vx1.732
Hi, great video just have one question on the neutral currents .
In a 3-phase load I think i understand the concept of how the appliance uses the other 2 phases as a return path as opposed to the neutral.
However in a situation such as in this video where 3 separate single phase loads are connected. How can the appliances use L2 or L3 as a return path? If the neutral were to be disconnected then surely there would only be 1 line conductor to each appliance? How would the appliances continue to operate if the other phases are not present at the appliance to act as a return path?
It seems like I’m missing something here but I’m just scratching my head at the idea of an appliance operating with only one single conductor at point of connection..
hoping you guys can help me on this one hope I’ve made the question understandable!
you're probably thinking that all 3 currents at any given moment are coming out the source. This is impossible in 3 phase. What is really happening is, at one moment in time, only TWO phases have current going out, and combine (vectorially) to return on the 3rd phase. For example, at one moment, A and B going out and combine to return on C. Next moment, A and C going out, and combine to return on B. Then next moment, B and C are going out and combine to return on A. And repeats. Of course this is in the context of a balanced circuit. Hope this clear things up
Very good explanation
Which is why years ago we used to install 31/2 core cables as supply cable with a reduced neutral when the single phase loads were relatively small
That was excellent work.
Thanks for the topic, effort & way explained.. Q: Why sometimes we find current flowing even thu breakers are off mode..
A question I would like to ask to follow up on your video. On my home immersion heater that needed replacing the neutral wire became over heated where the insulation had melted at the terminal. I have also seen this same thing on an electrical shower and oven. Why does the neutral wire show signs of burning but not the live wire?
The only reason that the wire would overheat is likely to be increased resistance at the connection terminal, resulting in heat generation. The current in the supply wire and neutral wire would be the same value, so if the supply wire is not overheated the supply terminal would be low or virtually y no resistance.
@@alanwhitfield1907 I agree but it always seems to be the neutral wire that gets charred, not the live wire, so there must be some thing more to this. I have seen accounts in other forums about this situation of the neutral wiring showing signs of over heating and not the live as well so it is a bit of a puzzle as to find some sort of explanation why this happening.
@@mightymax232 In all the cases i've seen, and theres a lot, the neutral burns because its loose. I have no idea why electricians cannot tighten them the same as lives.
This can also happen when the 3 live wires are not connected to 3 different phases. Then loads on the same phase combine, and because they have twice the copper for L than N...
I learned all this when I was an apprentice 60 years ago.
Yo, this is magic stuff 😍
Iam just rolling into big buildings with 3 phase ac and hi power pumps and motors
I'll stick to this channel
Fwy, I imagined that it has to do with the 3 phase, if you would add up the 3 loads trough the neutral it should be way bigger than 2.5
2 waves can cancel each other out. Dad was a guitarist 😅
1:23 hey I have that same multi meter in Green! Although that looks like it may have an extra button.
do the same with 3 x non-PFC power supplies (like your laptop's PSU) Even when all lines are balanced, you shall see a current in the neutral. The 3rd current harmonics are summed up in the neutral
excellent video, congrats!
so thats why the nutral does not have to be thicker mm3?
Interesting stuff...I was expecting "it depends on if it is fed from a Star or Delta transformer..." great explaination.
great explanation!
Great explanation thank you
If you're interested in electricity kirchoffs law is pretty interesting as is thevanins theory, not super heavy in maths but worth a look in my opinion
I am little confused, i think it won't work if you disconnect neutral from the point where three neutrals meeting, like if there's only a phase wire connected in the heater without their interconnection?
They are talking about disconnecting the neutral coming in from the transformer. The neutrals from equipment still connected together on neutral bar. Or a neutral out to a junction box that all three are connected to and removing that connection. Best wishes, Kevin
Great video 👍
For single phase,we can measure neutral current with clamp meter,but neutral doesn't shock human in a closed circuit?i am confused on this question..
You are confusing current and voltage. You cannot feel the current that flows in the wire (unless it is so high that it makes the wire hot). You can feel only the current that goes through you. If you touch the neutral there is no voltage so no current flows through you.
The idiots who say: "It is not the voltage, it is the current" do extreme havoc for understanding.
At 5:21 , but if you remove neutral, the circuit would be incomplete and no current would flow , especially when you have a faulty current protection installed.
If you've got a balanced three phase load you can lose the neutral and the circuit will work fine. 😃
@@efixx is that legal? the electrical meter won't read the electrical consumption without neural, right ?
@@tom2010ad Are you serious? Of course the meter reads all the phases. If there is no current in the neutral how could removing it affect anything?.
Why was the current the same on the neutral when two heaters were hooked up. If you explained that I missed it. Also how does current flow without the neutral connected. I know 220 doesn't have a neutral but unless Im mistaken each leg reverses acting like a neutral.
So how would an RCD work in a 3 phase installation work if there is a difference between the current on the line and neutral?
The 3Ø RCD is smart, if the L1 (5A) L2 (5A) L3 (5A), RCD KNOW the neutral must be zero.
If L1 (5A) L2 (0A) L3 (0A), RCD KNOW the neutral must be 5A.
--------
And 1Ø RCD (2P RCD) work as curren
Of the Phase = curren of neutral
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But do you know this video all Load same Power Factor so in reality of there three loaded same current but they not same Power Factor the neutral will be have current
Spot on! God job!
Question from a layman. If current is flowing thru the neutral circuit why can't you recycle or re-use it, & does it "return" to the supplier or could you feed it into a battery or transformer intercept without "consuming" any more celectricity ?
Different when it comes to Harmonic distortion, particularly the 3rd harmonic. These harmonics are the result of nonlinear loads that convert AC line voltage to DC, i.e. frequency converters, PCs etc. This causes a much higher current to flow in the neutral even in a balanced designed system, thus needing to install Active or passive harmonic filters to take them out and balance the load again or simply oversizing the neutral conductor to exceed the phase wiring by 50% to accommodate the higher current
Yes, in forward phase theatrical lighting systems, neutral over-current can be a big problem! Basically, at certain settings, the dimmers may all be drawing current near the end of the half-wave so there is no cancellation. The result is that the neutral conductor is carrying the highest current load. In the US, NEC requires such systems to oversize the neutral conductor. As harmonic filters would trow of the Zero-Cross Detectors in the dimmers, oversize is the only solution.
In the US, high harmonic loads are required to have the neutrals doubled in size to handle higher amperes on the neutrals. Special transformers are also made. Best wishes, Kevin
PME systems (TN-C-S) effectively remove (minimise is more accurate) any current from the Neutral in the DNO's supply side network but obviously that is not the case in the customer's Consumer Unit
With each customer on a TN-C-S system the current from the Line to the Neutral is the same.
However, over a large number of such customers on the three separate "Phases" the total/residual current on the "Neutral" conductor will be quite small - hopefully, zero.
so one of the L lines acts as return path for the electrons?
I have a question, if in 2 phase circuit you have exact the same current in the neutral is no current used in consumer? and if so why we pay for the production of current and not just transport and distribution.
You meant single phase? Two phase has not been used for a century. The current is not consumed. Think about a saw. Does the wood consume the saw so that once you push it in, nothing comes from the other side?
I do not get where the idea that current is consumed comes from. Maybe it is confusing current and voltage. Nobody forces you to pay for the electricity. If you think your life is better without then go ahead and live without. Your question is at the level : why do I pay for the barber when he gets by hair. you pay all the nice things the electricity brings you.
pretty much exactly.
A new way of saying things :)