As soon as you said at the begining you were going to cut these two wires I was thinking noooo. Great to see your honesty, we all make mistakes but hopefully learn from them best way to learn.
I think it's best to be honest when I the job. It happens to everyone and shows that all DIY problems can be overcome.....well most of the time! Thanks for watching.
Yes, and they remove any human error when tightening screws meaning the wires are secured at the correct pressure by the fittings. Thanks for the feedback.
Very clear explanation and demonstration. Cutting an extra cable by mistake and repaing it in a professional manner was actually the icing on the cake. Many thanks mate. 👍👍
The only additional yet important point we would like to add is that every Wagobox has an integrated mounting slot on the back. There is no need to drill any holes in the enclosure itself. Step 1: Assemble cables inside Wagobox. Step 2: Using a single screw, fix a Wagobox Mounting Button to the surface where you intend to mount your Wagobox. Step 3: Slot Wagobox onto fixed mounting button using the integrated mounting slot. Wagobox Mounting Buttons are sold separately (other than Screwfix). We hope that helps :)
Great video pouse, don’t worry about the so called electricians putting you down. Anybody who watches you electrical work videos will know that you get an electrician to check over everything. Keep up the good work 👍 you have helped me before with downlighters and they were safe, passed all testing with an electrician
Thanks for some sensible feedback. As you say I'm not advocating cowboy electrics, merely trying to show the process. For some it might even be the reason they employ an electrician.
Oh dear.....another one.....Yeh let's not take any notice of Electricians that know what they are doing, Lets watch someone who doesn't...He doesn't even know the regs for the height of sockets Its only 450mm high in a new build house not an existing......says it all
@@markyd2633 height of sockets again was explained in video if you watch it. I said I did the rest of my house to modern reg standard including height, but it doesn't have to be. I rewired a few years back so I chose to do it this way. Please watch the videos in full if you would like to comment. We will all get more out of it that way.
@@markyd2633 amazing that your main criticism of the video is someone erring on the side of caution by placing a socket at regs height for a new build even though it's not required in existing. Probably why viewers like watching someone do a job from a similar point of view to themselves, as opposed to watching the plethora of UA-cam electricians who get their knickers in a bind over a wire being slightly out of place "I walked off the job!!!!!" Good grief.
First time here, very informative video that resonates well with the diy community. Easy to follow and very practical. Will need to replay to fully digest the contents. Looking forward to more down to earth tutorials.
You had your circuit detector/alarm plugged in, of course, but we don't all have one of those. As you can't lock most fuse boxes, keeping a radio on the circuit you are working on allows for someone coming in the building, finding the power off and resetting the fuse. Yes - that happened to me whilst I was handling the live wire. I also set some sort of mains light to warn me in case I'm using a power tool at that moment.
I am new to your site and love it. Brilliant video. It explains things very simply, and makes a change to see a mistake made and rectified. Most videos would cut them out, this proves that anyone can make mistakes.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE did you connected the spur in series or parallel? If it was in Series then it can have voltage drop problems. And if it is i series then it may not be a spure it is just increasing the socket on the same ring, so this socket will not be spure but a part of the main ring and voltage will divide..
@democracyforall it's a ring circuit and I added the socket to the ring. It's not a spur. That's the point of the video, I broke into the ring to add tge socket. It's 2.5mm 2 cable, on a ring with 32amp mcb, and protected by rcd on the consumer unit. Thanks for watching 👍
glad to see your only human with that mistake.......i had already added some sockets in our spare bedroom and working on my lounge but glad to see I'm doing it right. Excellent video and really like them.
One small tip when using drywall boxes is to have some longer fixing screws handy as the short ones can push the connection away. Longer ones can save a lot of a anguish! For all the naysayers out there, I extended my kitchen ring with four sockets and one spur for an extractor. Drywalled the ancient lathe and plaster wall, fitted new kitchen units, sink, dishwasher, washing machine, double oven ( on 6mm) etc. Then fitted a new bathroom, drywall ceiling, shower and downlights. Five years on and everything is great even saved an absolute fortune by cutting out the "middle men" although I did get the gas engineer out for his stuff.... wouldn't touch gas! All of that without any skills, just your average DIY Joe cramming the free knowledge offered by Pouse around the House and his ilk. Thanks again. P.S. I know you'll all be waiting for my home to burn down but here's a strange thought. At work which is all certified and checked every year, my Hoover lead split baring the live and neutral wires resulting in sparking fireworks. It had a sealed moulded plug from new but the fireworks continued for about 15 seconds before I killed the power at the fusebox which was right behind me. Question here is why didn't the plug fuse blow or the fusebox trip since the socket I was using has in the past tripped the fuse?
I suggest caution on the number of sockets on a kitchen ring as so many small appliances (kettle/toaster/microwave etc.) can easily reach the limits of a single ring.
@@michaeltb1358 Good point. Ovens and hob on their own, separate single item circuits. Preferably fridge and freezer on separate single item circuits. Ideally washing machine and tumble dryer similar. Professional registered recommended electricians said nothing and wanted to keep simple ring. I did have utility room wm, td, ff on separate ring. Toaster, fridge, dishwasher, kettle, microwave all on kitchen ring - wish I'd stuck to my guns and insisted on separate feeds to fridge, mw, dw. Saving up to make it all that way. Two consumer units expensive but well worth it
@@cuebj Professional electricians are right. Theres absolutey no need to have appliances and microwaves and fridges on there own circuits. Absolute waste of time and money.
Hi, great video. Can i ask why you have extended the ring to wire in thi socket rather than just add a radial spur with a single length of twin and earth. Just asking as this differs from another of your videos so wondering what the circumstances were to make you choose this method. Thanks
@@down4first774 Can extend the ring final cct as long as not in a special location (basically not by bath, shower, swimming pool or sauna heater). See regulation 12(6A) of the Building Regulations 2010, reproduced in Part P (2013).
Little tip - when doing your earth sleeving, bend it over on itself and then cut it off at that point, giving you double the length so you only have to measure once.
On 2nd fix, terminations are manufactured to fit 2 cores in. On a ring, you have 2 cores; no need to fold over. When stripping the outer sheath, you should take the cable to the other side of the box, plus 150mm. This will allow you to wrap around the box, without strain; leaving plenty of excess for the future.
Fair point, but as this was a stud wall the cable is free to push up and down in the wall so no strain and plenty of cable to strip in future if required. Thanks for the feedback.
As a marine support engineer, I was using various WAGO connectors more than 20 years ago. They are of German origin and my pronunciation of the WAGO name was corrected by a German sales representative - ‘W’ in German is pronounced as a ‘V’ so it’s really ‘vargo’.
To control the heat generated in the Wagobox-MF, there is a limit of 50A placed on the aggregate current flowing through the box when 222-type connectors are used. You have the ring going "out" through the first joint in the box with potentially 32A's worth of heat being generated in this first joint. You then have the ring returning through the same box, generating potentially another 32A's worth of heat in the other joint on it's way back through. That gives an aggregate current of 64A flowing through the various joints in the box, which exceeds the 50A maximum. To house both joints in the same Wagobox-MF you would need to use the bigger 773-173 connectors (and I'm not sure you can get 6 2-ways in anyway) or de-rate the ring to 20A Or splash out another £1.70 on a second box of course.
Funny enough after filming the video I did splash out on a second box, actually a third, one for the mistake as well. I was able to fix them to the joist properly then. Thanks for the feedback.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE Hi, just about all of it. Firstly what is meant by “32amps of heat”. If the circuit has been designed and installed correctly including a correctly rated protective device the joint or cable will not get hot. If it does something is seriously wrong. Then, assuming it’s a ring main circuit, wired in 2.5mm 6242b cable, with a 32amp protective device, not under fault condition, how on earth is 64amps ever going to flow without tripping the protective device. Lastly, this not how a ring main works. For example, if you have a ring main with three sockets on it, let’s imagine the ring main is 4mts in length ( yes a short ringmain but bear with me) with the 1st socket 1mt from the consumer unit, the 2nd socket 2mts from the consumer unit and the third socket again 1mt from the consumer unit and it has a load of say 10amps, the 10amps does flow around the ring, it will draw 5amps down one leg of the ring, and the other 5amps from the other side of the ring. This why when wiring a ring main you need to ensure no one leg of the ring has more outlets or excessive length on it than the other leg. Otherwise you overload one half of the ring. As per some of the other comments, I have also lost count of the amounts of deadly DIY wiring in homes I’ve seen over the years. I’m also very surprised if an electrician would sign off any works they have not undertaken - I wouldn’t. If an electrician has not carried out the installation they should be carrying out a periodic report or condition report. Should there be a fire then his Public liability will need to be good and your home insurer will no doubt ask questions. I assume the electrician is Part P certified and issued you signed off cert after testing the additional works.
S Wilshaw is correct according to wago and the following in respect of the box in the video. 'To comply with the IET regulations, each Wagobox is limited to 50Amps in total. The compatible terminals, 773(solid) and 222 (lever), are also derated to 20Amps. Therefore, for a regular 32Amp ring main, you will need to use two Wagoboxes - one at the start and one at the end of the extension. As the load from any socket is shared in both directions of the ring (albeit unevenly), the derated 20Amp terminals are sufficient.
To maintain the ring, if you cut a cable each cut end of the cable has to connect to the new bit you're adding to effectively maintain a 'ring'. Hope that makes sense. If in doubt please call an electrician and stay safe! Thanks for watching.
I was just typing out: no no no no no no!!!!" When the screen message came up. Also, it's best to get double the length at the new socket, and push both ends through, you can keep it a loop until you are ready to wire up.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE not a critisim more a 'I made this mistake and now have half my kitchen sockets not working' approach ;) but my dad did tell me about the loop trick. We all learn by our mistakes :)
@@boli2746 if you watch my other vids you'll see I loop the cable sometimes, depends how easy it is to feed through the hole. Every job is different but thanks for the info 👍
Could you help answer the below questions. So I’m the video you cut both wires, and then selected only one. Now I know that you cut the second wire by mistake, but how did you know which wire was the right one. For example if I pull up the board and I see two wires, how do I know which wire is the correct wire for the circuit switch? 9:58
Love your videos and thank you so much for your time and effort with these tutorials. Quick question: If I wanted to relocate my wall socket to another location in the same room, what's the easiest and correct way of doing this? The current socket already has a spur linked to it. I have cavity walls and the skirting boards have already been taken off so running cables to another location isn't an issue. Many thanks, Meethi
Like your videos, seem very easy to follow, I'm not and electrician but seems easy enough to do, I'm looking to add a fused spur for an electric heater, did you do a video for that?
Great videos, can I ask a stupid question how do i find the live out terminal of a 2 gand switch. Need to override a sensor security light so i can use it working on sensor then be able to override it so i can leave it on for a while. manufacture told me to get a 2 gand switch and said this "You can put a 2 gang switch in, 3 way rocker switch or a IP rated outside switch, as long as the switch puts live in the live out terminal it will override the unit" how would I wire this.
Any advice Im not one to touch any thing electric, I put a pick into my armoured thicker cable to my summer house, ,although a chip I'm down to the outer Steele I switched off the house power straight away, that feeds the power, is there any way one can get a joiner of some sort, and is this would it be safe method, or do I have to renew every thing.
You can get underground waterproof connector boxes specifically for armoured cable but you should get an electrician to fit it as done incorrectly could be dangerous and it's important to ensure earth continuity along the cable. Hope that helps.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE thanks for your great advice, in feel more safer, and more confidence , to have this done by a proper sparks, myself is not a loverr of anything to do with electric, ,once again thank you,stay safe.
A bedroom has 3 double sockets on a ring circuit, mounted externally on skirting boards. I am moving all 3 sockets up to above new skirtings (metal boxes chased into wall at 450mm). The simplest method would seem to be to use the existing breaks in the ring where the old sockets are connected, and to fit a spur junction under the floor for each new socket (ie. single spur 2.5mm wire going up to sockets). This avoids double connections for each side of extending the ring up into the sockets. Therefore there would be no sockets remaining in the room that are strictly on the ring, but a very short spur to each from the ring. I can't see that this contradicts any regs, and is certainly as safe or safer than adding spurs while keeping other existing sockets that are on the ring. Please could you comment on this? Many thanks.
Electricians hate these videos because it means they can’t charge ridiculous amounts of money for basic jobs. Wouldn’t mess around with certain jobs but changing light fixtures or adding a socket is easy enough
I don't think all electricians hate these videos (I might be wrong!) and not all charge extortionate prices. Also some people have no practice aptitude whatsoever so wouldn't even consider such a task. Either way I hope the video is useful. Thanks for the feedback 👍
I think, you completely forget, part p, minor works etc certs. Having the tools and experience to know you are actually breaking into the ring and not a already spured of socket. Testing the continuity etc. But yeah, we charge to much
As you have a con drop from the existing socket, why not pull one leg back with new cable length attached........bet you could have done the job without any wago connections.
Sorry for late reply! No, not these connectors, you'd need the ones that accept 6mm wires and probably 41amp or greater for an oven. Mine were 32am up to 4mm wires. You've prob done it by now!
Did you know that if you use the thinner wago connectors in that wago box it's not considered non maintenance....why?...I guess because somehow those orange levers could mysteriously pop open.
Just out of curiosity could you have not just run one cable from the one side of the ring main to the new socket , i don't understand why you would need to run two cables as you have.
Awesome video, just a question I want to add two sockets. Can I do this the same way by breaking one cable ( where the junction box will go) and running it through to a double socket then to another double socket and then back to the broken cable junction box?
Yes that's fine as long as you maintain the ring. Obviously you shouldn't have too many sockets on one ring and the circuit should be in safe working order to start with. The only way to truely know this is by getting it tested by an electrician. Best of luck and if in doubt please call an electrician to ensure the installation is safe.
Good video. I'd rather someone follow this, than having a go themselves blindly whilst the UK DIY shops sell cable / sockets. Any direction is better than zero direction ~ also, if they are at the DIY shop buying electrical stuff, calling the 'expensive electrician' is out of mind, and will only be when things finally go wrong...
"Any direction is better than zero direction" Not when it comes to electricity! Would you put in a gas boiler? No. Electricity and gas are the unseen dangers. If you do a bit of waterpipe you can see if it leaks, doesn't work that way with electricity or gas, if you aren't qualified then don't mess with it FFS.
@@shaunlewis286 I get your point but it is illegal to work on gas as a home owner. It isn't illegal to work on domestic electrics providing they meet the requirements of the part P regulations.
If you had thought about it a bit more you could have cut loop of wire connected the ends in the WAGO Box then you wouldn't have needed Choc Blocks and it would have been much Safer too!
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE I would have pulled one of the T&E cables from the original socket and run that to the new socket instead and the run a new cable from the new to old socket maintaining the ring. That way you wouldn't have have to cut into the T&E or use wagos, as the only terminations would be at the two sockets 👍
@@uncensored5104 yeah, there are many ways to peel a potato, you still get chips at the end. But yeah all the connections could have easily been made at the socket with the ring remaining intact throughout
Ha ha. Unfortunately where I've been bashing house around the old lime mortar has popped in places and caused cracks. On the plus side this will be in a cupboard but think I'll knock it of and replaster......so just another job to add to my growing list! Thanks for watching.
To be maintenance free, the Wago Box is limited to 50A. Assuming the ring has a 32A OPD the box as shown has a total current of 8 wires x 16A = 64A (there is 4 wires x16A in the other Wagobox). This exceeds the 50A maintenance free limit, so in the video, three separate boxes would be required.
It's a work in progress! It will become a cupboard anyway so not on show following loft conversion. I used to think old houses with big gardens were fun. With two kids I'm thinking new build and small garden is the way forward! It never ends.
No...in his own word he got an Electrician to test it a couple of weeks later..So it could have had a fault on it for a couple of weeks before it was found......Well Done
Just to clarify that Part P regs do not apply in Scotland, so your opening statement is not accurate. Scotland has a separate and distinctly different way of certifying electrical installation work. Link here to Scottish Building Standards www.gov.scot/policies/building-standards/ and for electrical installation work select.imiscloud.com/SELECT/Website/More/Scottish-Building-Standards-Certification/Scottish-Building-Standards-Certification-Landing-Page.aspx
You went to trouble of tubing the chases and plenty of length on original cable so would've been easier and safer to pull one existing leg back to the new position and run in a new leg back to the original...no JBs under the floor and no cutting the wrong cable 🤫 ...and as others have said, a bit of proper testing prior to energising and whacking a vacuum in would've been good 🧐
Cables were a bit tight to be honest, but fair point so thanks for the feedback. Using the socket with hoover was intentional to wind up the usual electrical trolls, always gets them going!
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE Little bit harsh - an unqualified person calling the qualified people ( genuinely pointing out better/safer ways and the obvious safety omissions) 'trolls'.
The brown wire copper is too long for the Wago block there is a groove on the back of them connectors that is a gauge to measure the length of the copper.
Well firstly I rewired the house and had the wiring tested following the installation. So I know that this is a ring and it was sound. Following this addition an electrician did the same along with my loft wiring. Thanks for watching.
I've just been told by an electrician that I should get an actual electrician to do this job for me... Is he just trying to scare me or is this as easy as I think it is..... What could possibly go wrong?
It's only easy if you know how to do it! Joking aside, this should be tested following installation to ensure it is working correctly and safely and an electrician can do this for you. These things are never as easy as they look and electrics can be dangerous so if in doubt please use an electrician. Thanks for watching.
19:20 but why?... Just cut them to the right size instead as twice as long then you don't need to fold them as there is plenty to grab on a 2.5mm t & e
@@MrSacko1986 Single conductors, absolutely yes. Two or more like in the video, no need - there's at least as much conductor already under the screw as a single folded over. And just you try and get 3 conductors "doubled" into the terminal (e.g. when running a spur off the ring from the back of a socket)
I like most of the videos you post but when it comes to electrics I turn off. Showing people how to add sockets with no testing before and after. Just because something works when it's plugged in doesn't mean its safe. Then again DIY Dave can just nip to screwfix and buy this stuff off the shelf.
That's not really the point. I'm showing the process. DiY will have a go regardless. I always point out that all electrical work must meet part P reg requirements. I get my work tested and signed off by an electrician. The fact remains this is a perfectly legal way of doing it, but you need to do it properly and have someone qualified and happy to sign off your work. Thanks for the feedback.
As your obviously doing a lot of work in your house I hope you thought to put ethernet in every Room Preferably two in rooms with TV so your not relying on wifi extenders! Also think where your Phone line currently comes in and BT may Drop a fiber in future, if you have a Telegraph Pole outside they tend to bring it in upstairs! Check out My Mate Vince's channel!
Wago series 222 are only rated to 24 amps using 2.5mm twin and earth 32 amps using 4mm twin and earth. No fire protection by means of an intumescent cavity box liner on the additional socket. Get it right or don't make the videos
Why would I need fire protection for a socket on a landing cupboard? It's not a requirement in this situation. As for wago 222, they are fine for 2.5mm domestic wiring in ring circuits. Thanks for watching!
@@iainreadman6142 “Where a wiring system passes through elements of building construction such as floors, walls, roofs, ceilings, partitions or cavity barriers, the openings remaining after passage of the wiring system shall be sealed according to the degree of fire-resistance (if any) prescribed for the respective element of building construction before penetration.” A plasterboard wall enclosing a cupboard has no prescribed degree of fire-resistance.
How do you know you was actually working on a ring final circuit that could have been a spur going to a spur so without continuity test you dont know...just because there are 2 cables doesn't mean it's a ring....mistake 1 Mistake 2...When second fixing new socket still no continuity test to make sure you had continuity on the CPC the Neutral and the Line conductors. Mistake 3.....No R1 R2 test....No Zs test...No RCD trip time test Mistake 4......Any addition to a circuit must have the above tests and a Minor Works Cert issued to comply with the 18th Edition Regs Mistake 5....You now have NO house insurance if an electrical fire is started or someone gets an electric shock Mistake 6.....You have filmed yourself doing it and have put it on the internet Mistake 7 ......being responsible for a load of DIY Daves carrying out non compliant electrical work ..... WELL DONE YOU SHOULD BE PROUD OF YOURSELF
I did state I rewired the house at the start of the video hense I know exactly what those cables do, so mistake 1 - watch the video before you comment. As for tests, I got an electrician to test whilst testing my loft conversion wiring. Mistake 2 - don't assume an electrician can't test somebody else's work. As for house insurance, are you saying an old house, with old wiring, out of date and not working properly invalidates house insurance if a new home owner buys it and does nothing to them? No, that's because house insurance is for exactly that. Don't believe the myths you hear on your apprenticeship which I imagine you are currently studying for. Yes it's on the Internet, I have nothing to hide and I like the criticism and feedback I get like yours👍 As for 'Daves' they would have a crack anyway so at least now they may have half a chance of doing it right. Thanks for taking the time to comment! Best of luck.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE Yes an Electrician can test somebody else's work as long as they are 3rd party registered....some of the tests should have been carried out before energizing the circuit where was your 3rd party registered electrician then......old houses can be insured yes but as soon as any electrical work is carried out certs must be issued for insurance purposes. I understand your reply is trying to cover yourself as you probably realised you have made another boo boo as well as the one in the vid. And you still think that DIY Dave is going to learn from this vid, Yes he is... how to do it WRONG Bye the way 20 years a sparks not a Handyman like yourself, Show me how to cut some wood and put your Electrical tools in the bin
@@markyd2633 thank you very much for posting this. People should not be carrying out electrical work unless they are qualified electricians, and getting someone to sign it off shouldn’t really be done on an EIC or MW cert as they have not carried out the work. The guy on this channel constantly argues back without a leg to stand on as he’s NOT a qualified electrician.
@@davids5498 you're right I am not qualified and I've never said I am. I get an electrician to test and sign off my wiring. If what you say is true how can any wiring ever be signed off as safe without a full new rewire? Not everyone that has work done has a new rewire. I know in theory it's a nice idea but in reality it's not practical or realistic. Thanks for the feedback.
i have followed your loft conversion since the start and enjoyed your videos very much, but... it is nearly three years since you started posting video about the conversion and nearly four months since the last one, sorry Pouse but i am losing interest now, this is just to long !!!
I know the feeling! But fair enough. Problem I have is lack of time. When I do get chance to edit videos I like to keep a bit of a mix as not all viewers want loft conversion vids. When I only posted loft conversion vids my views overall dropped significantly. Other issue is the amount of footage I have to condense into a 15 minute video, it's a lot which takes time. I'm going to push out some more loft vids soon but with a full time job, children and a youtube channel, something's got to give! Thanks for your continued support 👍
Even if you used 30amp junction boxes (some would say under floorboards is accessible- there's no clear definition in the regs, see David Savery's website) you'd use two: you shouldn't join both legs of a ring final circuit together except at the CU.
Your a good DIYer, but you are NOT an electrician and as such you should not be adding sockets to a circuit as it's against the law. Also you did not test the continuity, insulation resistance or the rcd. All plug testers tells you is that power is there and the polarity is correct, not if the installation is safe. But 10 out of 10 for keeping your mistake in.
@@electricalstuff259 Your right I worded my comment badly, but when I see videos like this with no testing and no clarification of the electrical system it can so easily lead to some DIY er following what they see and ending in a tragedy. All new electrical work must comply with Part P of the Building Regulations which restricts DIY electrical work on grounds of safety. ... Upon completion of the job, it is a legal requirement for the electrician to test the new system and hand over a signed BS 7671 electrical safety certificate.
@@davidtimperley4241 No it doesn't, anybody can undertake any work unrestricted as long as they notify building control. You people literally just continue to spout falsehoods. I'm a practising electrician and i'm telling you the facts. Please listen.
Extending the ring main is NOT permitted work. Its notifiable and should be completed by a qualified electrician. If you do, do it yourself a qualified electrician needs to check all work and sign it off and provide necessary paperwork. You are permitted to run a spur from the ring, but not extend the ring. I thought I heard you say you rewired you house too. If so a qualified electrician should have been involved.
Wrong. Extending a ring main is only notifiable in 'special locations' so bathrooms, kitchens or exterior. There is no law that says one must be qualified, only competent to do the job. There is no 'permitted' or 'not permitted' - he can rewire his entire house if he wants and then simply get building control in to check it. Please know what you're talking about before making yourself look foolish in comment sections.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE There's a lot of people online who think they know stuff about electric and they know nothing. This ranges from 'it's illegal!' (there are zero actual 'laws' governing what you can do in terms of wiring) to 'you need a QUALIFIED ELECTRICIAN!' - you don't need any qualifications to legally touch electric in the UK, never have done - this is why we're considered 'unregulated' in Europe along with Netherlands. I'm literally an apprentice and have a long standing interest in electrics and it didn't stop my father in law proclaiming you need to 'be qualified and have certificates to prove you're qualified, that you have to show when selling the house'. When i told him he was full of shit the response was 'well my friend is a lawyer and she deals with houses and she says this is the case'. Like, i'm an actual electrician and he's a painter and he's arguing with me. If only these people actually read Part P where there's a section on 'DIY' where it says you can do what you like but you just have to notify building control if putting in a new circuit, changing a CU, doing anything in kitchens, bathrooms or exterior. You did a good job here imo. It's all electrically safe. Ignore the naysayers.
great video NOT..... I'm not an electrician, I am an experienced DIYer, who did a domestic installer course to understand more about electrics and I was so surprised how much I didn't know. From the moment you started by using a proven unreliable volt stick and an 8 quid socket tester, which tells you nothing about the state or configuration of the cable you are connecting to, I found myself shouting at the screen. to mention a few of the things I would concider incorrect. The Wago connectors you used are only rated for 24a with a 2.5mm cable so I assume you have down rated the breaker in the CB? The Wago is capable of 32a only with a 4mm cable but you confirmed you used 2.5mm. You clearly don't know how to fix a Wago box to a joist. You left single core cable exposed under the stairs, good job you fed the dog and he didn't munch on that. You didn't check the continuity of the CPC or polarity before you demonstrated using the socket to vacuum up the mess. You didn't even use the £8 tester to check it. I hope you have really good public liability insurance coz if someone follows what you have put up here and it goes wrong you might find yourself liable, regardless of any statement you issue regarding the current UK regulations. It is people like you that give ammunition to the jobsworth electricians that want to stop competent DIYers. Please don't post anymore electrical videos. You mentioned you got an electrician to check your work, I seem to recall you said a couple of weeks later. So you could have been happily using that socket if it had no earth continuity. Please consider your limitations as we should all do. regards a fellow DIYer.
Actually ive seen pro electricians use 23 amp Wago's for the ring. Sockets are rated at 13 amps and the cable itself is rated at 20 to 23 amps. Attaching Wago boxes to a joist isn't required as they have internal strain relief and can be left un mounted if desired. What didn't impress me though was that extending the ring is notifiable work. We can add spurs but not extend the ring. Thus, it should have been done, or signed off by a qualified electrician. You mention he had a pro check his work. If so, glad he did. I would have used THREE Wago boxes though. Not jam all 6 Wagos into one box. You are being a bit harsh regarding leaving single core cables exposed and his dog. There's a plethora of flexes lying around in the home from all manner of appliances that a dogs jaws can bite through with ease. In fact a dog can bite trough hefty sheathed cable in a flash. No pun intended.
Hi Lel, as mentioned at the start of the vid this was an impromptu video. I did in fact fix the wago to the joist later that day as I always do and there were other things I also didn't show as I had other jobs to get on with that day. The connectors are in fact suitable. My dog doesn't eat electric cable, just food. It's my house so I can control who comes in and out of it, and with covid restrictions, no one was here anyway so perfectly safe with safely isolated cables. An electrician checked/inspected my house rewired a few years back and this work the same. I mentioned part P regs at the start and whilst I understand your point, I don't see there is anything wrong with the physical installation of my work provided the work is tested which it was? My intention is not to encourage cowboys to carry out electrics, it's to clarify the process for those that are interested. I've always said people need to follow part P, the rules are all there, and there is a process to follow if embarking on your own electrics. Too many rules to list, that's a video in itself. Thanks for your feedback and thanks for watching.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE Glad to hear an electrician checked your work and I presume supplied you with the necessary documentation. Might be an idea to add something to your video to warn people that extending a ring is notifiable work under Part P and *must* be signed off by a qualified electrician and the necessary documentation provided. Just being checked by an electrician isn't enough. It needs a compliance certificate.
@@martinw245 Extending a ring isn't notifiable unless being taken outside or in your kitchen and even if it were, notifiable work does not require the involvement of a qualified electrician. If your 6 day course taught you this i'd ask for my money back if i were you.
As soon as you said at the begining you were going to cut these two wires I was thinking noooo.
Great to see your honesty, we all make mistakes but hopefully learn from them best way to learn.
Indeed! Thanks for the feedback.
A man that knows his trade !!
I love the fact you leave the “mistakes in” great videos as always
I think it's best to be honest when I the job. It happens to everyone and shows that all DIY problems can be overcome.....well most of the time! Thanks for watching.
thoes wago fittings makes the job so much easier happy Sunday.
Yes, and they remove any human error when tightening screws meaning the wires are secured at the correct pressure by the fittings. Thanks for the feedback.
Very clear explanation and demonstration. Cutting an extra cable by mistake and repaing it in a professional manner was actually the icing on the cake. Many thanks mate. 👍👍
Glad you enjoyed it 👍
Awesome! Ive added spurs in the past but needed this tutorial on extending the ring, much Better than me guessing 👀 👏👏
Glad to help.
The only additional yet important point we would like to add is that every Wagobox has an integrated mounting slot on the back. There is no need to drill any holes in the enclosure itself. Step 1: Assemble cables inside Wagobox. Step 2: Using a single screw, fix a Wagobox Mounting Button to the surface where you intend to mount your Wagobox. Step 3: Slot Wagobox onto fixed mounting button using the integrated mounting slot. Wagobox Mounting Buttons are sold separately (other than Screwfix). We hope that helps :)
Thanks for the feedback. As you say, the mounting block never seems to come with the box!
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE True. Usually have to buy them separately as a pack
come on , you should supply them with the box ,costing pence
Great video pouse, don’t worry about the so called electricians putting you down. Anybody who watches you electrical work videos will know that you get an electrician to check over everything. Keep up the good work 👍 you have helped me before with downlighters and they were safe, passed all testing with an electrician
Thanks for some sensible feedback. As you say I'm not advocating cowboy electrics, merely trying to show the process. For some it might even be the reason they employ an electrician.
Oh dear.....another one.....Yeh let's not take any notice of Electricians that know what they are doing, Lets watch someone who doesn't...He doesn't even know the regs for the height of sockets Its only 450mm high in a new build house not an existing......says it all
@@markyd2633 height of sockets again was explained in video if you watch it. I said I did the rest of my house to modern reg standard including height, but it doesn't have to be. I rewired a few years back so I chose to do it this way. Please watch the videos in full if you would like to comment. We will all get more out of it that way.
@@markyd2633 amazing that your main criticism of the video is someone erring on the side of caution by placing a socket at regs height for a new build even though it's not required in existing.
Probably why viewers like watching someone do a job from a similar point of view to themselves, as opposed to watching the plethora of UA-cam electricians who get their knickers in a bind over a wire being slightly out of place "I walked off the job!!!!!"
Good grief.
@@markyd2633 Ha ha, you don't know what you're on about marky d!
First time here, very informative video that resonates well with the diy community. Easy to follow and very practical. Will need to replay to fully digest the contents. Looking forward to more down to earth tutorials.
Thanks for the feedback, plenty more vids on the channel, feel free to browse!
Thanks very much for your video....I though you explanation was one of the best I've seen on UA-cam.....very clear!
Thanks for the feedback David.
this is an excellent instruction on how to extend the ring ,very clear and concise
Thank you!
You had your circuit detector/alarm plugged in, of course, but we don't all have one of those. As you can't lock most fuse boxes, keeping a radio on the circuit you are working on allows for someone coming in the building, finding the power off and resetting the fuse. Yes - that happened to me whilst I was handling the live wire. I also set some sort of mains light to warn me in case I'm using a power tool at that moment.
You need a lock off kit in these scenarios. With power tools etc and the possibility of someone turning power on, you are risking your life.
@@tobysherring1369 A totally good point - my 'work arounds' are a poor substitute for your point. Thanks for insisting.
Great video, I always find doing sockets so fiddley for us with big hands lol.
Thanks for watching!
I am new to your site and love it. Brilliant video. It explains things very simply, and makes a change to see a mistake made and rectified. Most videos would cut them out, this proves that anyone can make mistakes.
I make mistakes all the time!! Thanks for the feedback 👍
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE did you connected the spur in series or parallel? If it was in Series then it can have voltage drop problems. And if it is i series then it may not be a spure it is just increasing the socket on the same ring, so this socket will not be spure but a part of the main ring and voltage will divide..
@democracyforall it's a ring circuit and I added the socket to the ring. It's not a spur. That's the point of the video, I broke into the ring to add tge socket. It's 2.5mm 2 cable, on a ring with 32amp mcb, and protected by rcd on the consumer unit. Thanks for watching 👍
Really good video much appreciated and I'm glad the dog made a guest appearance 😂
Great video mate. You've helped me do loads of electrical work in my house. Keep them coming. Lol funny when you cut the wrong cable
I'm glad you found it funny! Thanks for watching.
As you marked the second cable I was thinking, why would you need to cut both cables?. Always good to share and own up to your cockups.
Yes indeed! It happens, I'm only human. Thanks for the feedback.
Thanks for this video. It clarified many unclear things to me. Thanks again.
No problem.
glad to see your only human with that mistake.......i had already added some sockets in our spare bedroom and working on my lounge but glad to see I'm doing it right. Excellent video and really like them.
Thanks for the feedback.
One small tip when using drywall boxes is to have some longer fixing screws handy as the short ones can push the connection away. Longer ones can save a lot of a anguish!
For all the naysayers out there, I extended my kitchen ring with four sockets and one spur for an extractor. Drywalled the ancient lathe and plaster wall, fitted new kitchen units, sink, dishwasher, washing machine, double oven ( on 6mm) etc. Then fitted a new bathroom, drywall ceiling, shower and downlights.
Five years on and everything is great even saved an absolute fortune by cutting out the "middle men" although I did get the gas engineer out for his stuff.... wouldn't touch gas!
All of that without any skills, just your average DIY Joe cramming the free knowledge offered by Pouse around the House and his ilk.
Thanks again.
P.S. I know you'll all be waiting for my home to burn down but here's a strange thought. At work which is all certified and checked every year, my Hoover lead split baring the live and neutral wires resulting in sparking fireworks. It had a sealed moulded plug from new but the fireworks continued for about 15 seconds before I killed the power at the fusebox which was right behind me.
Question here is why didn't the plug fuse blow or the fusebox trip since the socket I was using has in the past tripped the fuse?
Thanks for the feedback!
I suggest caution on the number of sockets on a kitchen ring as so many small appliances (kettle/toaster/microwave etc.) can easily reach the limits of a single ring.
@@michaeltb1358 Good point. Ovens and hob on their own, separate single item circuits. Preferably fridge and freezer on separate single item circuits. Ideally washing machine and tumble dryer similar. Professional registered recommended electricians said nothing and wanted to keep simple ring. I did have utility room wm, td, ff on separate ring. Toaster, fridge, dishwasher, kettle, microwave all on kitchen ring - wish I'd stuck to my guns and insisted on separate feeds to fridge, mw, dw. Saving up to make it all that way. Two consumer units expensive but well worth it
@@cuebj Professional electricians are right. Theres absolutey no need to have appliances and microwaves and fridges on there own circuits. Absolute waste of time and money.
You're doing God's work my man
Thanks for the feedback.
Thanks for the detailed wago explanation and how to stay in line with regs
No problem.
It's not in line with the regs. Extending the ring is notifiable under Part P.
Brilliantly explained, Easy to folow, very helpful, thank you!
No problem.
Top vid there are really some know it alls out there but you’ve done the best vid by far mate 👍
Thanks for the kind words 👍
thanks, this just assured me I was doing it correct. Good clear video.
Great video very informative. Just one bit I find confusing, the two cables coming from donor socket , how do you know which one to cut, thanks
Hi, great video. Can i ask why you have extended the ring to wire in thi socket rather than just add a radial spur with a single length of twin and earth. Just asking as this differs from another of your videos so wondering what the circumstances were to make you choose this method. Thanks
Same question on my mind
@@mathewgallimore1484 regs allow competent person to add socket or spur but not extend ring so was just curious that’s all.
@@down4first774 Can extend the ring final cct as long as not in a special location (basically not by bath, shower, swimming pool or sauna heater). See regulation 12(6A) of the Building Regulations 2010, reproduced in Part P (2013).
Thanks for this, it'll come in very handy. Nothing or Nobody will come between Milo and his food 👍
You're quite right, I am below him in the household pecking order.
Little tip - when doing your earth sleeving, bend it over on itself and then cut it off at that point, giving you double the length so you only have to measure once.
Thanks for the tip!
Top man, great job, as always great video. Easy mistake to make as well we've all done it no shame in that at all!
Thanks 👍
Brilliantly explained, very helpful, thank you!
Thanks for the feedback 👍
Fair play for not editing your blooper out.
Can you do a diagram video for adding spare sockets like you did for the ceiling rose pls? Keep up the amazing work 👍 have learned loads from you
I've done a video on how to add a spur socket which may be of interest - ua-cam.com/video/TPnce20ceBQ/v-deo.html. Thanks for watching.
On 2nd fix, terminations are manufactured to fit 2 cores in.
On a ring, you have 2 cores; no need to fold over.
When stripping the outer sheath, you should take the cable to the other side of the box, plus 150mm.
This will allow you to wrap around the box, without strain; leaving plenty of excess for the future.
Fair point, but as this was a stud wall the cable is free to push up and down in the wall so no strain and plenty of cable to strip in future if required. Thanks for the feedback.
Must use deep boxes. 150 mm excess.
Thanks. Very informative.
Thanks for the feedback 👍
Well demonstrated, thanks mate.
No problem, thanks for watching 👍
As a marine support engineer, I was using various WAGO connectors more than 20 years ago. They are of German origin and my pronunciation of the WAGO name was corrected by a German sales representative - ‘W’ in German is pronounced as a ‘V’ so it’s really ‘vargo’.
Thanks for the feedback. I always assumed that was the case but if I say it that way I can't help but sound like a James Bond baddy!
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE 😀
Waygo. The French call them waggo.
19:14 sec was the best explanation 😂😂😂
So u make the ring again new with the old u can check with continuity tester or mega
To control the heat generated in the Wagobox-MF, there is a limit of 50A placed on the aggregate current flowing through the box when 222-type connectors are used.
You have the ring going "out" through the first joint in the box with potentially 32A's worth of heat being generated in this first joint. You then have the ring returning through the same box, generating potentially another 32A's worth of heat in the other joint on it's way back through. That gives an aggregate current of 64A flowing through the various joints in the box, which exceeds the 50A maximum.
To house both joints in the same Wagobox-MF you would need to use the bigger 773-173 connectors (and I'm not sure you can get 6 2-ways in anyway) or de-rate the ring to 20A
Or splash out another £1.70 on a second box of course.
Funny enough after filming the video I did splash out on a second box, actually a third, one for the mistake as well. I was able to fix them to the joist properly then. Thanks for the feedback.
What absolute nonsense.
@@ilovenitnat what is nonsense? Please elaborate.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE Hi, just about all of it. Firstly what is meant by “32amps of heat”. If the circuit has been designed and installed correctly including a correctly rated protective device the joint or cable will not get hot. If it does something is seriously wrong. Then, assuming it’s a ring main circuit, wired in 2.5mm 6242b cable, with a 32amp protective device, not under fault condition, how on earth is 64amps ever going to flow without tripping the protective device. Lastly, this not how a ring main works. For example, if you have a ring main with three sockets on it, let’s imagine the ring main is 4mts in length ( yes a short ringmain but bear with me) with the 1st socket 1mt from the consumer unit, the 2nd socket 2mts from the consumer unit and the third socket again 1mt from the consumer unit and it has a load of say 10amps, the 10amps does flow around the ring, it will draw 5amps down one leg of the ring, and the other 5amps from the other side of the ring. This why when wiring a ring main you need to ensure no one leg of the ring has more outlets or excessive length on it than the other leg. Otherwise you overload one half of the ring. As per some of the other comments, I have also lost count of the amounts of deadly DIY wiring in homes I’ve seen over the years. I’m also very surprised if an electrician would sign off any works they have not undertaken - I wouldn’t. If an electrician has not carried out the installation they should be carrying out a periodic report or condition report. Should there be a fire then his Public liability will need to be good and your home insurer will no doubt ask questions. I assume the electrician is Part P certified and issued you signed off cert after testing the additional works.
S Wilshaw is correct according to wago and the following in respect of the box in the video.
'To comply with the IET regulations, each Wagobox is limited to 50Amps in total. The compatible terminals, 773(solid) and 222 (lever), are also derated to 20Amps.
Therefore, for a regular 32Amp ring main, you will need to use two Wagoboxes - one at the start and one at the end of the extension. As the load from any socket is shared in both directions of the ring (albeit unevenly), the derated 20Amp terminals are sufficient.
I know they’re basic but I like those sockets. Where did you get them please?
Think they were screwfix or wickes. Sorry for late reply!
Curious. When you cut the 2 wires coming from the main box, the ring circuit, does it matter which one you use, if you were to only cut the one.
Not really. Thanks for watching.
Does it matter what wire you t-off on the original ring main or not. You cut 2 originally. Could you of T’d off on any of them wires ??
To maintain the ring, if you cut a cable each cut end of the cable has to connect to the new bit you're adding to effectively maintain a 'ring'. Hope that makes sense. If in doubt please call an electrician and stay safe! Thanks for watching.
I was just typing out: no no no no no no!!!!" When the screen message came up.
Also, it's best to get double the length at the new socket, and push both ends through, you can keep it a loop until you are ready to wire up.
Thanks for the feedback.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE not a critisim more a 'I made this mistake and now have half my kitchen sockets not working' approach ;) but my dad did tell me about the loop trick.
We all learn by our mistakes :)
@@boli2746 if you watch my other vids you'll see I loop the cable sometimes, depends how easy it is to feed through the hole. Every job is different but thanks for the info 👍
There's always someone thinking outside the box, thanks be to God !!
Could you help answer the below questions.
So I’m the video you cut both wires, and then selected only one. Now I know that you cut the second wire by mistake, but how did you know which wire was the right one.
For example if I pull up the board and I see two wires, how do I know which wire is the correct wire for the circuit switch? 9:58
Love your videos and thank you so much for your time and effort with these tutorials.
Quick question: If I wanted to relocate my wall socket to another location in the same room, what's the easiest and correct way of doing this?
The current socket already has a spur linked to it.
I have cavity walls and the skirting boards have already been taken off so running cables to another location isn't an issue.
Many thanks,
Meethi
Get an electrician...
Take one leg out, extend it to where you want to go, put another leg from that back to the original socket to continue the ring.
Are these wagos safe to use if I wanted to extend a socket if I wanted to move a socket let’s say 20 inch up the wall for example.
Like your videos, seem very easy to follow, I'm not and electrician but seems easy enough to do, I'm looking to add a fused spur for an electric heater, did you do a video for that?
Brilliant instruction. What's the correct Wago connection box for the 222 connectors? Thanks
Great videos, can I ask a stupid question how do i find the live out terminal of a 2 gand switch. Need to override a sensor security light so i can use it working on sensor then be able to override it so i can leave it on for a while. manufacture told me to get a 2 gand switch and said this
"You can put a 2 gang switch in, 3 way rocker switch or a IP rated outside switch, as long as the switch puts live in the live out terminal it will override the unit" how would I wire this.
Any advice Im not one to touch any thing electric, I put a pick into my armoured thicker cable to my summer house, ,although a chip I'm down to the outer Steele I switched off the house power straight away, that feeds the power, is there any way one can get a joiner of some sort, and is this would it be safe method, or do I have to renew every thing.
You can get underground waterproof connector boxes specifically for armoured cable but you should get an electrician to fit it as done incorrectly could be dangerous and it's important to ensure earth continuity along the cable. Hope that helps.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE thanks for your great advice, in feel more safer, and more confidence , to have this done by a proper sparks, myself is not a loverr of anything to do with electric, ,once again thank you,stay safe.
A bedroom has 3 double sockets on a ring circuit, mounted externally on skirting boards. I am moving all 3 sockets up to above new skirtings (metal boxes chased into wall at 450mm). The simplest method would seem to be to use the existing breaks in the ring where the old sockets are connected, and to fit a spur junction under the floor for each new socket (ie. single spur 2.5mm wire going up to sockets). This avoids double connections for each side of extending the ring up into the sockets. Therefore there would be no sockets remaining in the room that are strictly on the ring, but a very short spur to each from the ring. I can't see that this contradicts any regs, and is certainly as safe or safer than adding spurs while keeping other existing sockets that are on the ring. Please could you comment on this? Many thanks.
Great video cheers
Thanks 👍
Electricians hate these videos because it means they can’t charge ridiculous amounts of money for basic jobs. Wouldn’t mess around with certain jobs but changing light fixtures or adding a socket is easy enough
I don't think all electricians hate these videos (I might be wrong!) and not all charge extortionate prices. Also some people have no practice aptitude whatsoever so wouldn't even consider such a task. Either way I hope the video is useful. Thanks for the feedback 👍
I think, you completely forget, part p, minor works etc certs. Having the tools and experience to know you are actually breaking into the ring and not a already spured of socket. Testing the continuity etc. But yeah, we charge to much
@@westleyjohnstone4719 🥱 aye because the tools required are really expensive 🤡
Did you check continuity of the ring final at the socket, proving that you've not just tapped into a spur off a spur ?
I rewired the house a few years back, all tested and inspected by an electrician. I know it's not a spur. Thanks for watching!
As you have a con drop from the existing socket, why not pull one leg back with new cable length attached........bet you could have done the job without any wago connections.
No, they were too tight unfortunately but fair point. Thanks for the feedback!
If you cut into a ring circuit there is supposed to be a spur in place to where your extending from
If you do that then it's a 'spur'. What I did in the video is extending a ring or adding sockets to the ring.
Fair play mouse around the house
Thanks for watching.
Hi great video. (love the dog)
Can I use Wago Box for a 6mm cooker cable to extend it! As I'm moving my cooker a our 4 metres.
Thanks.
Sorry for late reply! No, not these connectors, you'd need the ones that accept 6mm wires and probably 41amp or greater for an oven. Mine were 32am up to 4mm wires. You've prob done it by now!
Did you know that if you use the thinner wago connectors in that wago box it's not considered non maintenance....why?...I guess because somehow those orange levers could mysteriously pop open.
How do I do that but adding 2 double sockets
Watch my other video here - ua-cam.com/video/ptLCEa6EkfE/v-deo.htmlsi=B4V9KKTKiGiLRWDN. Best of luck.
Just out of curiosity could you have not just run one cable from the one side of the ring main to the new socket , i don't understand why you would need to run two cables as you have.
Awesome video, just a question I want to add two sockets.
Can I do this the same way by breaking one cable ( where the junction box will go) and running it through to a double socket then to another double socket and then back to the broken cable junction box?
Yes that's fine as long as you maintain the ring. Obviously you shouldn't have too many sockets on one ring and the circuit should be in safe working order to start with. The only way to truely know this is by getting it tested by an electrician. Best of luck and if in doubt please call an electrician to ensure the installation is safe.
You don't need to double the ends of the cable over on 2.5 cable.
Maybe on a spur. Thanks for the feedback.
Good video. I'd rather someone follow this, than having a go themselves blindly whilst the UK DIY shops sell cable / sockets.
Any direction is better than zero direction ~ also, if they are at the DIY shop buying electrical stuff, calling the 'expensive electrician' is out of mind, and will only be when things finally go wrong...
I would agree but as you can see, many don't! Thanks for the feedback.
"Any direction is better than zero direction" Not when it comes to electricity! Would you put in a gas boiler? No. Electricity and gas are the unseen dangers. If you do a bit of waterpipe you can see if it leaks, doesn't work that way with electricity or gas, if you aren't qualified then don't mess with it FFS.
@@shaunlewis286 I get your point but it is illegal to work on gas as a home owner. It isn't illegal to work on domestic electrics providing they meet the requirements of the part P regulations.
Yay🎉 🥳❤
you did not need to cut both cables from socket?
If you had thought about it a bit more you could have cut loop of wire connected the ends in the WAGO Box then you wouldn't have needed Choc Blocks and it would have been much Safer too!
I didn't use choc blocks, I used wago connectors in the wago box as it is intended. Not sure what video you were watching?
Not how I would have done it but entertaining all the same.
Fair enough! How would you have done it? Thanks for watching.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE I would have pulled one of the T&E cables from the original socket and run that to the new socket instead and the run a new cable from the new to old socket maintaining the ring. That way you wouldn't have have to cut into the T&E or use wagos, as the only terminations would be at the two sockets 👍
@@uncensored5104 yeah, there are many ways to peel a potato, you still get chips at the end. But yeah all the connections could have easily been made at the socket with the ring remaining intact throughout
Next video, how to fix cracks 😜😁
Ha ha. Unfortunately where I've been bashing house around the old lime mortar has popped in places and caused cracks. On the plus side this will be in a cupboard but think I'll knock it of and replaster......so just another job to add to my growing list! Thanks for watching.
So this is added to ring and not a spur?
This is added to the existing ring yes. To see how to add a spur to a ring click here - ua-cam.com/video/KJWHK9YYIHU/v-deo.html. Thanks for watching.
QMG a fire waiting to happen !
Bold statement. Would you care to elaborate?
Lol no.
BS5733 derates MF WAGO boxes, you need to calculate you have not exceeded max aggregate current for one box. ie 4 x 32A.
Thanks for the feedback.
To be maintenance free, the Wago Box is limited to 50A. Assuming the ring has a 32A OPD the box as shown has a total current of 8 wires x 16A = 64A (there is 4 wires x16A in the other Wagobox). This exceeds the 50A maintenance free limit, so in the video, three separate boxes would be required.
Think you need to get a painter and decorator in state of them walls and skirtings
It's a work in progress! It will become a cupboard anyway so not on show following loft conversion. I used to think old houses with big gardens were fun. With two kids I'm thinking new build and small garden is the way forward! It never ends.
Have you tested your r1 & r2 and you're zs think not
I didn't, an electrician did a few weeks later. Thanks for watching!
Yeh of course he did
Alteration and addition. Minor works certificate.
No...in his own word he got an Electrician to test it a couple of weeks later..So it could have had a fault on it for a couple of weeks before it was found......Well Done
Just to clarify that Part P regs do not apply in Scotland, so your opening statement is not accurate. Scotland has a separate and distinctly different way of certifying electrical installation work. Link here to Scottish Building Standards www.gov.scot/policies/building-standards/ and for electrical installation work select.imiscloud.com/SELECT/Website/More/Scottish-Building-Standards-Certification/Scottish-Building-Standards-Certification-Landing-Page.aspx
Why did you extend the ring instead of just creating a spur?
Because I had access to the floor boards and makes more sense to keep it on ring instead of having spurs all over the place.
You went to trouble of tubing the chases and plenty of length on original cable so would've been easier and safer to pull one existing leg back to the new position and run in a new leg back to the original...no JBs under the floor and no cutting the wrong cable 🤫 ...and as others have said, a bit of proper testing prior to energising and whacking a vacuum in would've been good 🧐
Cables were a bit tight to be honest, but fair point so thanks for the feedback. Using the socket with hoover was intentional to wind up the usual electrical trolls, always gets them going!
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE Little bit harsh - an unqualified person calling the qualified people ( genuinely pointing out better/safer ways and the obvious safety omissions) 'trolls'.
@@richardpugh8702 but are they qualified? That's my point. We can all do a Google search. Thanks again for the feedback.
The brown wire copper is too long for the Wago block there is a groove on the back of them connectors that is a gauge to measure the length of the copper.
How are you going to confirm it's a ring final and the ring isnt broken?
Well firstly I rewired the house and had the wiring tested following the installation. So I know that this is a ring and it was sound. Following this addition an electrician did the same along with my loft wiring. Thanks for watching.
I've just been told by an electrician that I should get an actual electrician to do this job for me... Is he just trying to scare me or is this as easy as I think it is..... What could possibly go wrong?
It's only easy if you know how to do it! Joking aside, this should be tested following installation to ensure it is working correctly and safely and an electrician can do this for you. These things are never as easy as they look and electrics can be dangerous so if in doubt please use an electrician. Thanks for watching.
19:20 but why?...
Just cut them to the right size instead as twice as long then you don't need to fold them as there is plenty to grab on a 2.5mm t & e
AM2 instructor said otherwise. Any single conductor under 4mm is to be folded over.
@@MrSacko1986 Single conductors, absolutely yes. Two or more like in the video, no need - there's at least as much conductor already under the screw as a single folded over.
And just you try and get 3 conductors "doubled" into the terminal (e.g. when running a spur off the ring from the back of a socket)
@@stephenwilshaw3052 Yes I'd agree with that but I do fold over if it fits which as seen n video they don't always! Thanks for the comment.
@@MrSacko1986 I would agree but as Stephen said, and as seen in video it doesn't always fit. Depends on fitting used. Thanks for watching.
Dave , that's what I did!.....after they didn't fit 😉 Thanks for watching.
I like most of the videos you post but when it comes to electrics I turn off. Showing people how to add sockets with no testing before and after. Just because something works when it's plugged in doesn't mean its safe. Then again DIY Dave can just nip to screwfix and buy this stuff off the shelf.
That's not really the point. I'm showing the process. DiY will have a go regardless. I always point out that all electrical work must meet part P reg requirements. I get my work tested and signed off by an electrician. The fact remains this is a perfectly legal way of doing it, but you need to do it properly and have someone qualified and happy to sign off your work. Thanks for the feedback.
Only single cable going into a socket need doubling over.
As your obviously doing a lot of work in your house I hope you thought to put ethernet in every Room Preferably two in rooms with TV so your not relying on wifi extenders! Also think where your Phone line currently comes in and BT may Drop a fiber in future, if you have a Telegraph Pole outside they tend to bring it in upstairs! Check out My Mate Vince's channel!
Wago series 222 are only rated to 24 amps using 2.5mm twin and earth 32 amps using 4mm twin and earth.
No fire protection by means of an intumescent cavity box liner on the additional socket. Get it right or don't make the videos
Why would I need fire protection for a socket on a landing cupboard? It's not a requirement in this situation. As for wago 222, they are fine for 2.5mm domestic wiring in ring circuits. Thanks for watching!
You obviously don't know the contents of BS7671
@@iainreadman6142 “Where a wiring system passes through elements of building construction such as floors, walls, roofs, ceilings, partitions or cavity barriers, the openings remaining after passage of the wiring system shall be sealed according to the degree of fire-resistance (if any) prescribed for the respective element of building construction before penetration.” A plasterboard wall enclosing a cupboard has no prescribed degree of fire-resistance.
You should be testing the ring circuit before tapping off it
Thanks for the feedback.
Poor dog!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
How do you know you was actually working on a ring final circuit that could have been a spur going to a spur so without continuity test you dont know...just because there are 2 cables doesn't mean it's a ring....mistake 1
Mistake 2...When second fixing new socket still no continuity test to make sure you had continuity on the CPC the Neutral and the Line conductors.
Mistake 3.....No R1 R2 test....No Zs test...No RCD trip time test
Mistake 4......Any addition to a circuit must have the above tests and a Minor Works Cert issued to comply with the 18th Edition Regs
Mistake 5....You now have NO house insurance if an electrical fire is started or someone gets an electric shock
Mistake 6.....You have filmed yourself doing it and have put it on the internet
Mistake 7 ......being responsible for a load of DIY Daves carrying out non compliant electrical work ..... WELL DONE YOU SHOULD BE PROUD OF YOURSELF
I did state I rewired the house at the start of the video hense I know exactly what those cables do, so mistake 1 - watch the video before you comment. As for tests, I got an electrician to test whilst testing my loft conversion wiring. Mistake 2 - don't assume an electrician can't test somebody else's work. As for house insurance, are you saying an old house, with old wiring, out of date and not working properly invalidates house insurance if a new home owner buys it and does nothing to them? No, that's because house insurance is for exactly that. Don't believe the myths you hear on your apprenticeship which I imagine you are currently studying for. Yes it's on the Internet, I have nothing to hide and I like the criticism and feedback I get like yours👍 As for 'Daves' they would have a crack anyway so at least now they may have half a chance of doing it right. Thanks for taking the time to comment! Best of luck.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE Yes an Electrician can test somebody else's work as long as they are 3rd party registered....some of the tests should have been carried out before energizing the circuit where was your 3rd party registered electrician then......old houses can be insured yes but as soon as any electrical work is carried out certs must be issued for insurance purposes.
I understand your reply is trying to cover yourself as you probably realised you have made another boo boo as well as the one in the vid. And you still think that DIY Dave is going to learn from this vid, Yes he is... how to do it WRONG
Bye the way 20 years a sparks not a Handyman like yourself, Show me how to cut some wood and put your Electrical tools in the bin
The times I have to disconnect unsafe DIY electrical work is frightening.
@@markyd2633 thank you very much for posting this. People should not be carrying out electrical work unless they are qualified electricians, and getting someone to sign it off shouldn’t really be done on an EIC or MW cert as they have not carried out the work. The guy on this channel constantly argues back without a leg to stand on as he’s NOT a qualified electrician.
@@davids5498 you're right I am not qualified and I've never said I am. I get an electrician to test and sign off my wiring. If what you say is true how can any wiring ever be signed off as safe without a full new rewire? Not everyone that has work done has a new rewire. I know in theory it's a nice idea but in reality it's not practical or realistic. Thanks for the feedback.
i have followed your loft conversion since the start and enjoyed your videos very much, but... it is nearly three years since you started posting video about the conversion and nearly four months since the last one, sorry Pouse but i am losing interest now, this is just to long !!!
I know the feeling! But fair enough. Problem I have is lack of time. When I do get chance to edit videos I like to keep a bit of a mix as not all viewers want loft conversion vids. When I only posted loft conversion vids my views overall dropped significantly. Other issue is the amount of footage I have to condense into a 15 minute video, it's a lot which takes time. I'm going to push out some more loft vids soon but with a full time job, children and a youtube channel, something's got to give! Thanks for your continued support 👍
With all your commitments on board, the word "Superman" comes into my brain.
Leave electrical work to qualified electricians. Law needs to change like in Australia. Everyone thinks their a sparkytill it goes wrong
Thanks for the feedback.
In Australia you can't even change your own light fitting......😒
Couldn't you just use a 30amp junction box and put all four wires in
30amp junction box are not MF
Under floor boards you need a maintenance free junction box under current regs hense my choice of the wago.
Even if you used 30amp junction boxes (some would say under floorboards is accessible- there's no clear definition in the regs, see David Savery's website) you'd use two: you shouldn't join both legs of a ring final circuit together except at the CU.
@@tobysherring1369 Unless using a hybrid radial-ring wired to the consumer unit in 4mm2 say.
@@BLOCKsignallingUK yes
Your a good DIYer, but you are NOT an electrician and as such you should not be adding sockets to a circuit as it's against the law. Also you did not test the continuity, insulation resistance or the rcd. All plug testers tells you is that power is there and the polarity is correct, not if the installation is safe. But 10 out of 10 for keeping your mistake in.
Thanks for the feedback.
Please cite this imaginary law.
Part p says its non-notifiable - not against the law to do it. But should be tested and certified to BS7671 - which it was (albeit later).
@@electricalstuff259 Your right I worded my comment badly, but when I see videos like this with no testing and no clarification of the electrical system it can so easily lead to some DIY er following what they see and ending in a tragedy. All new electrical work must comply with Part P of the Building Regulations which restricts DIY electrical work on grounds of safety. ... Upon completion of the job, it is a legal requirement for the electrician to test the new system and hand over a signed BS 7671 electrical safety certificate.
@@davidtimperley4241 No it doesn't, anybody can undertake any work unrestricted as long as they notify building control.
You people literally just continue to spout falsehoods. I'm a practising electrician and i'm telling you the facts. Please listen.
Extending the ring main is NOT permitted work. Its notifiable and should be completed by a qualified electrician. If you do, do it yourself a qualified electrician needs to check all work and sign it off and provide necessary paperwork.
You are permitted to run a spur from the ring, but not
extend the ring.
I thought I heard you say you rewired you house too. If so a qualified electrician should have been involved.
I did have it checked by an electrician as I did the house wiring. Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching.
Wrong.
Extending a ring main is only notifiable in 'special locations' so bathrooms, kitchens or exterior. There is no law that says one must be qualified, only competent to do the job. There is no 'permitted' or 'not permitted' - he can rewire his entire house if he wants and then simply get building control in to check it.
Please know what you're talking about before making yourself look foolish in comment sections.
@@electricalstuff259 thanks again for the feedback!
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE There's a lot of people online who think they know stuff about electric and they know nothing. This ranges from 'it's illegal!' (there are zero actual 'laws' governing what you can do in terms of wiring) to 'you need a QUALIFIED ELECTRICIAN!' - you don't need any qualifications to legally touch electric in the UK, never have done - this is why we're considered 'unregulated' in Europe along with Netherlands. I'm literally an apprentice and have a long standing interest in electrics and it didn't stop my father in law proclaiming you need to 'be qualified and have certificates to prove you're qualified, that you have to show when selling the house'. When i told him he was full of shit the response was 'well my friend is a lawyer and she deals with houses and she says this is the case'. Like, i'm an actual electrician and he's a painter and he's arguing with me.
If only these people actually read Part P where there's a section on 'DIY' where it says you can do what you like but you just have to notify building control if putting in a new circuit, changing a CU, doing anything in kitchens, bathrooms or exterior.
You did a good job here imo. It's all electrically safe. Ignore the naysayers.
@@electricalstuff259 thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching 👍
great video NOT..... I'm not an electrician, I am an experienced DIYer, who did a domestic installer course to understand more about electrics and I was so surprised how much I didn't know. From the moment you started by using a proven unreliable volt stick and an 8 quid socket tester, which tells you nothing about the state or configuration of the cable you are connecting to, I found myself shouting at the screen. to mention a few of the things I would concider incorrect. The Wago connectors you used are only rated for 24a with a 2.5mm cable so I assume you have down rated the breaker in the CB? The Wago is capable of 32a only with a 4mm cable but you confirmed you used 2.5mm. You clearly don't know how to fix a Wago box to a joist. You left single core cable exposed under the stairs, good job you fed the dog and he didn't munch on that. You didn't check the continuity of the CPC or polarity before you demonstrated using the socket to vacuum up the mess. You didn't even use the £8 tester to check it. I hope you have really good public liability insurance coz if someone follows what you have put up here and it goes wrong you might find yourself liable, regardless of any statement you issue regarding the current UK regulations. It is people like you that give ammunition to the jobsworth electricians that want to stop competent DIYers. Please don't post anymore electrical videos. You mentioned you got an electrician to check your work, I seem to recall you said a couple of weeks later. So you could have been happily using that socket if it had no earth continuity. Please consider your limitations as we should all do. regards a fellow DIYer.
Actually ive seen pro electricians use 23 amp Wago's for the ring. Sockets are rated at 13 amps and the cable itself is rated at 20 to 23 amps.
Attaching Wago boxes to a joist isn't required as they have internal strain relief and can be left un mounted if desired.
What didn't impress me though was that extending the ring is notifiable work. We can add spurs but not extend the ring. Thus, it should have been done, or signed off by a qualified electrician.
You mention he had a pro check his work. If so, glad he did.
I would have used THREE Wago boxes though. Not jam all 6 Wagos into one box.
You are being a bit harsh regarding leaving single core cables exposed and his dog. There's a plethora of flexes lying around in the home from all manner of appliances that a dogs jaws can bite through with ease. In fact a dog can bite trough hefty sheathed cable in a flash. No pun intended.
Hi Lel, as mentioned at the start of the vid this was an impromptu video. I did in fact fix the wago to the joist later that day as I always do and there were other things I also didn't show as I had other jobs to get on with that day. The connectors are in fact suitable. My dog doesn't eat electric cable, just food. It's my house so I can control who comes in and out of it, and with covid restrictions, no one was here anyway so perfectly safe with safely isolated cables. An electrician checked/inspected my house rewired a few years back and this work the same. I mentioned part P regs at the start and whilst I understand your point, I don't see there is anything wrong with the physical installation of my work provided the work is tested which it was? My intention is not to encourage cowboys to carry out electrics, it's to clarify the process for those that are interested. I've always said people need to follow part P, the rules are all there, and there is a process to follow if embarking on your own electrics. Too many rules to list, that's a video in itself. Thanks for your feedback and thanks for watching.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE
Glad to hear an electrician checked your work and I presume supplied you with the necessary documentation.
Might be an idea to add something to your video to warn people that extending a ring is notifiable work under Part P and *must* be signed off by a qualified electrician and the necessary documentation provided. Just being checked by an electrician isn't enough. It needs a compliance certificate.
I'm an apprentice working in commercial installation. Blokes at work use a volt stick on 400v 3 phase supplies.
@@martinw245 Extending a ring isn't notifiable unless being taken outside or in your kitchen and even if it were, notifiable work does not require the involvement of a qualified electrician. If your 6 day course taught you this i'd ask for my money back if i were you.
Total cowboy job
You should not be instructing anyone to wire a socket. There are so many mistakes in what you’ve done