@@harryhagelund7674 you can watch at 1.5x speed and you’ll be ahead of the game! Plus I recall the advice from a professional speaker who said you need to “tell them what you’re going to say, say it, and then tell them what you said”, with appropriate levels of detail. It’s also staggeringly challenge to have a “conversation” without a real audience!
As a novice turner that has acquired my first log & looking to process it - the information you provide, the benefits of your years of experience, is greatly appreciated. Thanks Tomislov!
In my experience, wood choosing and processing is one of the under-explained things in woodturning. This video is very valuable to fix this. One note for the wide, wild, web (hopefully useful). Tomislav is based in Europe and he is referring to the typical season changing of Europe mainland nations (such as Germany, Croatia, Switzerland, and so on). If you are based somewhere else, "your seasons" may be very different: check with your local suppliers what is the best moment for cutting a tree in your location. Tree surgeons know all is needed especially for local species. Befriending some of them can give you a lot back, both in terms of wood and in term of knowledge.
You don’t need to apologise for talking. For me this is the subject that I have the least expertise in and yet it’s so fundamental. My first lathe will be delivered to me next week (hopefully) so I have been binge watching your videos. You have taught me alot, now I can’t wait to get started. The wood cracking afterwards is currently my biggest fear. So thank you.
Thank you for your experience sharing, i got a nice trunk of black walnut and this viedeo helped me out a lot in the way i stored the roughed out blanks, thank you very much! And of course you dont have to apologize for a non-turning video! This is precious information and experience for all turners!!
I do not coat any of my first turned bowls, never have. I do however leave them in an unheated shed dated for about 12 to 18 months or longer. I then bring them into my basement shop in September, on the floor, and let them further dry for about 6 weeks. Before turning I check the moisture content with a meter. Normally have about 90% to 95% success.
Wonderful information fine sir. Every place is different for its climate. What works for me won’t work for you. You just have to watch videos like this and find what works the best for you. This is a great video to learn from.
600 bowls! Wow. I am just starting cutting my winter firewood, the ash trees killed by the Emerald Ash Borer are already dry enough that the wood burns well. It is taking all my willpower not to cut it all into bowl blanks. I saved a bunch of pieces just as logs last year (and before) and stacked them in the barn. Now that I’ve finally started doing some turning I’ll find out if any of it has avoided cracking. We have a wide range of temperature and humidity during the year here in Eastern Ontario. It is always useful to find out what works for other people.
75% humidity is a lovely climate for drying blanks. When I lived near the Texas Coast years ago, humidity was almost always high like that, and drying work was relatively uncomplicated. Just put it somewhere shady and out of any drafts and there was very little loss. I now live in the high desert west though, where anything much more than 10% humidity is what we'd call a muggy day. So I have had to adapt. I've found that in this climate, anything untreated will almost certainly check, and often very quickly indeed. Without treatment, losses to checking in rough bowls will almost certainly above 50%, and in some timbers close to 100%, even if I try retarding the drying by storing the roughouts in a sealed cardboard box. So I now paint the outside of all roughed-out bowls with a sealant, and also seal the ends of all boards and spindle stock. When roughing out work from newly acquired logs, I need to keep the completed rough-outs either in a plastic bag, or buried in wet shavings prior to sealing- otherwise checking will start quickly, within an hour sometimes. On some summer days when it's hot as hell, and also dry, if for some reason I have to direct my attention away from a piece of green stock that's in progress on the lathe for even 30 minutes, I'll put a plastic bag over that too, otherwise when I return there will be checks developing for sure. Turning super thin green pieces, as demonstrated by you and others in these videos, is quite a challenge. It's necessary to work super-fast, and once it starts getting thin, you can't pause to think about things for very long at all, otherwise the piece will be out of round before you know it, making final cuts impossible. So, just a heads up for any beginning turners who live in a seriously dry climate. The craft of turning is still perfectly manageable, but extra steps will likely have to be undertaken.
Awsome input sir, appriciate your take on this ,its like you said, different climate different methods.... This will help out turners for sure that live in area like you
Good talk. It's always good to also point out that you can greatly improve the chances of successful drying by how you cut the blanks from the log. I know you mentioned this in your previous video on processing, but it is often tempting to try to get the largest possible blank from a log and you wind up getting too close to the pith. These videos are great and should help new turners for years to come.
nice tutorial. I have been stacking full rounds of rippable logs on top of each other, 3 at time like they were back in tree. It keeps moisture from escaping to fast, especially in Summer. Restacking once in while is exercise of course. I keep top of stack covered.
I was interested in where Croatia was located, and it’s sort of across from Italy? I’m near the coast of California, in fact I’m about 70 meters,200’ back from the ocean, so it’s wet here year round. I put some rough turned bowls in a paper bag with some wet shavings and it works, the thinned out glue has worked every time, I like what you said about rough turning in fall and winter. I was listening to Richard Raffan about cracked bowls, and as much as it hurt I threw my cracked bowls in the fire place. This is a great topic for you to discuss, I clicked on it immediately, thanks for sharing your info and time
Thank you Brian for watching and comment.... Yes we are sort of across Italy , search Mediterian sea ,we have beautiful coast and islands Glad to hear you get rid of cracked bowls,its great practice. Thank you sir once again
Well your ratio of blanks cracking is much better than mine. I do try to slow down drying but could do more. This all makes me wonder how a kiln would work successfully. We do all this stuff to slow down drying, whereas a kiln is going to significantly speed it up. It seems that a kiln would make cracking worse. I did recently microwave the heck out of a rough cut apple wood bowl. Lots of little cracks developed. So then I let it just sit for a few weeks and somewhat to my surprise all those little cracks closed back up. Thanks for sharing this more behind the scenes look at how you succeed with drying your blanks!
Yes do not apologize this is a valuable learning video. I wish I could say the same about success rate drying because of the very low humidity in my area a wet bowl may be dry in 4 months, if it doesn't crack it looks like a football 🏈
I have a virtually unlimited supply of wood since I basically live in the woods, so I almost always turn dry wood but even then I get some warping and cracking. I love turning green wood but it is a pain to keep it from cracking. I don't mind the warping, I kinda like it. Good video 👍
That is many, many lifetimes of wood for me. Do you worry about insects? Thanks for doing all of these videos. You are a wonderful teacher. I’ve improved my turning of the bottom of the bowl using the scraper techniques you have shown.
Really glad to hear that sir, I'm honored to be able to help out. Usually I don't worry about insects but if I find a wood or log with a lot of bug holes or flys holes I clean the holes if I can,but if I suspect if there could be some inside then I throw that out to NOT contaminate other stuff in shop.
Temps are too high, up to 30C ND. A rough turned bowl dries out almost overnight. A recent felled green Sassafras cut into slabs too heavy to lift, a test bowl finished drying oval overnight -so much to learn. I can store the blanks under the house where temps and humidity stays fairly constant. Trouble is that at my age I don’t have time to wait!. Thanks again for another informative video. Greetings from Tasmania Australia 👍😁🇦🇺
Been there as Zagreb can get hot at summer, I'm lucky as the shop is between house and big retaining wall, which is quite wet,so that always brings humidity up.... Thank you for your comment and input☺️
Yes, in these conditions you might employ some of the more drastic measures like completely coating with a moisture barrier then stacking or bagging. You have to reduce the escape rate of the moisture. Good luck! You may also mess around with finish turning while green and living with the warped bowl as a final product. These can be just as lovely and useful as any perfectly symmetrical bowl.
Very useful video. I have about 30 Plum logs and they split fast. Both Tomislav and RR have said Plum is bad for splitting so it looks like I have some rough turning to do.
Thanks. I was about to ask about humidity and temperature and then you showed them. Here in Montana it is much dryer than in Croatia, and wood dries very quickly so I paint them if I won't turn them quickly.
Every area is a bit different, but its always a good practice to slow it down to stack cards in your favor but if the wood wants to crack like plum there is no stoping😉
For those with limited space, I was wondering if making a small drying enclosure, say a frame wrapped in polythene, would allow more controlled drying. Say, one enclosure for each batch of items. Maybe, even a large cardboard box inside a big polythene bag? They could be stacked and dated. What are your thoughts? .
Its good if you have the space and many have that setup and Works.... For me this usually works great but I'll still have to see in new shop how the temp and humidity changes during winter for drying....
This is great info, I'm learning a lot. Do you check the % moisture content before you final turn things? What is the ideal moisture content to turn at? As a beginner turning one could get impatient and not want to wait for a finished project. The blanks you spoke of for boxes you mentioned would be ready in a few YEARS 🙂Oh and these talking videos are great, loads of valuable info.
Well you can always turn them finish gree n and let them warp...its nice effect.... I leaved them for a year aa they get stable, also in some climates its much shorter,so after just few months you can finish those.... I only measure moisture for stuff that interlocks with oher woods like boxes and such.... Usually I wood look under 15%moisture
Even when you get everything sorted out you will not have enough space 😂😊 bigger workshop more space to fill and you will fill it, thats life. Love living it. As in all learning process you need to know what happens at the start, you have to start any learning journey by sweeping the floor 😊
Great video with a lot of excellent information and tips. I have been turning since around 2010 but have only made maybe the amount that you had there; if that in my time of turning: however I don’t get a lot of time in my shop. While I have known about a few different ways of sealing and drying bowl blanks I haven’t had the greatest success, especially with cherry, but it might just be because of the time of year that I’ve turned my blanks or haven’t turned them to quite the right thickness. Even though I’ve been turning for many years as well as doing general woodworking, furniture type stuff, I am still always learning new things, ideas, tips and tricks, and new ways to accomplish to make work easier or just better. I came across your channel about a year ago from watching Richard Raffans channel and I have been so glad that I did. A really random question, but do you happen to have a nickname? Something that is shorter than Tomislav? Not that I’m saying it’s a bad name or anything but was just curious.
Thanks Scott for watching and comment 🤗 I have several nicknames, Like Toma, Tomek, Tomi, Tomo , I only had two People call me by full name, both masters I learned woodworking from😉
Great video with good info, thanks. Just a quick question when you use PVA do you have 10% water or 10% PVA? I'm in Australia and everything I do seems to split, I've used paint, wax and even bathroom latex sealer, nothing seems to work efectively.
Sorry guys for late response, I dialute pva glue with 10% water, roughly, doesn't have to be excact.... Coat entire bowl, if you have a lot of throuble with cracks try after first coat ,after day or two apply second coat as well....
Good video and information, I'm thinking about trying to put some in a bag of rice, have you ever tried that, the rice can be dried and reused, and here in Central Louisiana rice is easy to get
Olive can be temperamental, it does like crack, however rough turning the box shape a bit thinner then usual 10% should result in warping rathen then spliting.... Also avoid having them in big chunks like log format as in my practice likes to split to a point of that is ruined
Your channel is one of the most education and informative one on UA-cam for turners! Thank you so much for taking all the time it takes to make these videos. You are a fabulous teacher!
Hi Once again, thank you for your very informative videos. I wish my teachers at school were able to teach like you, I'd be a professor. 😅. Q. What is the optimum moisture percentage to finish turn a bowl.? I live in South Africa, hot sometimes very dry, sometimes a lot of rain for a couple of days. Thanks, have a great 2025, and I cant wait to see next years videos.
Thank you Barry You can turn wood from any moisture range,just depends on what are you doing and what for. I like turn dry stuff so my wood is under 20%moisture
thank you for the answer. that helps a lot. maybe its better to turn plum wood wet and thin with a good tool finish. thanks also for the recent tool finish video.
Do you ever microwave bowls to dry them after a first rough out turning? Seems like that would be a lot faster than waiting months for them to equalize moisture….
It is a lot easier to dry bowls in a relatively low temp/humidity environment. I live in central Texas and large bowls can lose 400g of water in the first week, even when sealed. But its regularly 35C+ here.
That is true, but we have big oscilation and last few years big storms so everything changes a bit and every area is diffent, I would like to be able to dry that fast but I have to slow it down.... Thanks for your input
The wall behind shelfs are accually retaining wall,and we have a lot of underground waters and so naturaly there is a lot of moisture there, so that helps for sure. Thats pretty much it... There was before clothes dryer with exhaust in the shop and I remove that so it doesn't heat up shop.
Привет, Томислав. Видео разговорное, но очень нужное. Особенно для начинающих. По твоему мнению, какой температурно-влажностный режим самый оптимальный для сушки в условиях мастерской? Ведь влагомер ты повесил не зря, как-то контролируешь влажность и температуру? И ещё вопрос: сколько заготовок у тебя сохнет в мастерской? Ведь нужен постоянный оборот готового материала. В одном из видео ты говорил, что стремишься, чтобы было 500 заготовок.
Thank you very much, I kept that humidity meter from years ago when I play with kilns, I don't control inviroment as usually you'll fail... however I did throw out few years ago clothes dryer with exhaust beacuse it did Heat up the shop a lot and crack bowls.... I strive for 500 to have inventory so I can make different stuff what clients order, last winter I start and with the rest of the logs outside I'll probably get to 750 this winter, I didn't use much of these stock as most orders came for spindle work, but it gives me peace knowing I have this stock when some odd order came. Hope that makes sense ☺️
Да, оборотный материал обязательно нужен. У меня сейчас около 200 заготовок. Но максимум, что вместит мастерская это наверное 400@@tomislavtomasicwoodturning
You don't need to apologize for a non-turning/"talking" video like this. This is fantastic information and so well presented, thank you!
Thank you sir
Just waits way too long too get to the topic!
@@harryhagelund7674 that's skip 15sec botton is used for
@@harryhagelund7674 you can watch at 1.5x speed and you’ll be ahead of the game! Plus I recall the advice from a professional speaker who said you need to “tell them what you’re going to say, say it, and then tell them what you said”, with appropriate levels of detail. It’s also staggeringly challenge to have a “conversation” without a real audience!
Half of turning & carving is what you do before it ever hits the tool plus what you do afterwards or between. Useful information, so it is great
As a novice turner that has acquired my first log & looking to process it - the information you provide, the benefits of your years of experience, is greatly appreciated.
Thanks Tomislov!
No problem,thank you for watching 🤗
In my experience, wood choosing and processing is one of the under-explained things in woodturning. This video is very valuable to fix this.
One note for the wide, wild, web (hopefully useful).
Tomislav is based in Europe and he is referring to the typical season changing of Europe mainland nations (such as Germany, Croatia, Switzerland, and so on).
If you are based somewhere else, "your seasons" may be very different: check with your local suppliers what is the best moment for cutting a tree in your location.
Tree surgeons know all is needed especially for local species. Befriending some of them can give you a lot back, both in terms of wood and in term of knowledge.
Thanks Valentina for your input, appriciate that very much 🤗
You don’t need to apologise for talking. For me this is the subject that I have the least expertise in and yet it’s so fundamental. My first lathe will be delivered to me next week (hopefully) so I have been binge watching your videos. You have taught me alot, now I can’t wait to get started. The wood cracking afterwards is currently my biggest fear. So thank you.
Great information. I'm glad that you took time out of your turning life to share your wisdom through experience.
Thank you for your experience sharing,
i got a nice trunk of black walnut and this viedeo helped me out a lot in the way i stored the roughed out blanks,
thank you very much!
And of course you dont have to apologize for a non-turning video! This is precious information and experience for all turners!!
Thanks for sharing. You are my favorite turner on UA-cam. Very skilled.
Oooo thank you soo much
I do not coat any of my first turned bowls, never have. I do however leave them in an unheated shed dated for about 12 to 18 months or longer. I then bring them into my basement shop in September, on the floor, and let them further dry for about 6 weeks. Before turning I check the moisture content with a meter. Normally have about 90% to 95% success.
This was a great video - thank you. I used to wrap my first-turn blanks in newspaper, but full-sized newspaper is very uncommon these days!
Wonderful information fine sir. Every place is different for its climate. What works for me won’t work for you. You just have to watch videos like this and find what works the best for you. This is a great video to learn from.
Thank you, agree with you...nicely said
Another great lesson by Tomislav.
600 bowls! Wow. I am just starting cutting my winter firewood, the ash trees killed by the Emerald Ash Borer are already dry enough that the wood burns well. It is taking all my willpower not to cut it all into bowl blanks.
I saved a bunch of pieces just as logs last year (and before) and stacked them in the barn. Now that I’ve finally started doing some turning I’ll find out if any of it has avoided cracking.
We have a wide range of temperature and humidity during the year here in Eastern Ontario.
It is always useful to find out what works for other people.
I liks having that kind of bowl storage as you never know what kind of piece you'll need. Thank you very much for watching
75% humidity is a lovely climate for drying blanks. When I lived near the Texas Coast years ago, humidity was almost always high like that, and drying work was relatively uncomplicated. Just put it somewhere shady and out of any drafts and there was very little loss.
I now live in the high desert west though, where anything much more than 10% humidity is what we'd call a muggy day. So I have had to adapt. I've found that in this climate, anything untreated will almost certainly check, and often very quickly indeed. Without treatment, losses to checking in rough bowls will almost certainly above 50%, and in some timbers close to 100%, even if I try retarding the drying by storing the roughouts in a sealed cardboard box.
So I now paint the outside of all roughed-out bowls with a sealant, and also seal the ends of all boards and spindle stock. When roughing out work from newly acquired logs, I need to keep the completed rough-outs either in a plastic bag, or buried in wet shavings prior to sealing- otherwise checking will start quickly, within an hour sometimes.
On some summer days when it's hot as hell, and also dry, if for some reason I have to direct my attention away from a piece of green stock that's in progress on the lathe for even 30 minutes, I'll put a plastic bag over that too, otherwise when I return there will be checks developing for sure.
Turning super thin green pieces, as demonstrated by you and others in these videos, is quite a challenge. It's necessary to work super-fast, and once it starts getting thin, you can't pause to think about things for very long at all, otherwise the piece will be out of round before you know it, making final cuts impossible.
So, just a heads up for any beginning turners who live in a seriously dry climate. The craft of turning is still perfectly manageable, but extra steps will likely have to be undertaken.
Awsome input sir, appriciate your take on this ,its like you said, different climate different methods.... This will help out turners for sure that live in area like you
Great information, I am amazed how much knowledge you present in a short amount of time. Thanks
Thank you very much 🤗
Good talk. It's always good to also point out that you can greatly improve the chances of successful drying by how you cut the blanks from the log. I know you mentioned this in your previous video on processing, but it is often tempting to try to get the largest possible blank from a log and you wind up getting too close to the pith. These videos are great and should help new turners for years to come.
Thank you very much 🤗
nice tutorial. I have been stacking full rounds of rippable logs on top of each other, 3 at time like they were back in tree. It keeps moisture from escaping to fast, especially in Summer. Restacking once in while is exercise of course. I keep top of stack covered.
That is interesting approch, like that ... Thank you very much for watching and comment
I was interested in where Croatia was located, and it’s sort of across from Italy? I’m near the coast of California, in fact I’m about 70 meters,200’ back from the ocean, so it’s wet here year round. I put some rough turned bowls in a paper bag with some wet shavings and it works, the thinned out glue has worked every time, I like what you said about rough turning in fall and winter. I was listening to Richard Raffan about cracked bowls, and as much as it hurt I threw my cracked bowls in the fire place. This is a great topic for you to discuss, I clicked on it immediately, thanks for sharing your info and time
Thank you Brian for watching and comment.... Yes we are sort of across Italy , search Mediterian sea ,we have beautiful coast and islands
Glad to hear you get rid of cracked bowls,its great practice.
Thank you sir once again
I always try to coat the knots areas as they dry fast and crack.
Très précieuse cette vidéo, merci Tomislav pour toutes ces précisions.
Well your ratio of blanks cracking is much better than mine. I do try to slow down drying but could do more. This all makes me wonder how a kiln would work successfully. We do all this stuff to slow down drying, whereas a kiln is going to significantly speed it up. It seems that a kiln would make cracking worse. I did recently microwave the heck out of a rough cut apple wood bowl. Lots of little cracks developed. So then I let it just sit for a few weeks and somewhat to my surprise all those little cracks closed back up. Thanks for sharing this more behind the scenes look at how you succeed with drying your blanks!
Yes do not apologize this is a valuable learning video. I wish I could say the same about success rate drying because of the very low humidity in my area a wet bowl may be dry in 4 months, if it doesn't crack it looks like a football 🏈
That can happen as well but try leaving enough thickness.... And some woods warp badly like pear or plum but others just a little bit.
Awesome video, thanks for sharing Tomislav👍🏻
Thank you, it's very interesting to see your drying process
I have a virtually unlimited supply of wood since I basically live in the woods, so I almost always turn dry wood but even then I get some warping and cracking. I love turning green wood but it is a pain to keep it from cracking. I don't mind the warping, I kinda like it. Good video 👍
Thank you James....really appriciate that
Thanks!
Mark , once again so much thank you, really appriciate this gesture, thank you
That is many, many lifetimes of wood for me. Do you worry about insects? Thanks for doing all of these videos. You are a wonderful teacher. I’ve improved my turning of the bottom of the bowl using the scraper techniques you have shown.
Really glad to hear that sir, I'm honored to be able to help out.
Usually I don't worry about insects but if I find a wood or log with a lot of bug holes or flys holes I clean the holes if I can,but if I suspect if there could be some inside then I throw that out to NOT contaminate other stuff in shop.
@@tomislavtomasicwoodturning makes sense
Temps are too high, up to 30C ND. A rough turned bowl dries out almost overnight. A recent felled green Sassafras cut into slabs too heavy to lift, a test bowl finished drying oval overnight -so much to learn. I can store the blanks under the house where temps and humidity stays fairly constant. Trouble is that at my age I don’t have time to wait!. Thanks again for another informative video. Greetings from Tasmania Australia 👍😁🇦🇺
Been there as Zagreb can get hot at summer, I'm lucky as the shop is between house and big retaining wall, which is quite wet,so that always brings humidity up....
Thank you for your comment and input☺️
Ohh and waiting on bowls to dry keep you young, Thats what I hear at least 😉
Yes, in these conditions you might employ some of the more drastic measures like completely coating with a moisture barrier then stacking or bagging. You have to reduce the escape rate of the moisture. Good luck! You may also mess around with finish turning while green and living with the warped bowl as a final product. These can be just as lovely and useful as any perfectly symmetrical bowl.
What dilution ratio is satisfactory for water to wood glue?
Thin pva glue with 10% water... That works great
How do you know what my next question will be? I have had some issues so this is brilliant. Thank you so much.
Thanks Rachel, glad I guesed your question 😉
I have a restaurant next door so I can just walk over and grab some boxes. Good advise in your video.
Very useful video. I have about 30 Plum logs and they split fast. Both Tomislav and RR have said Plum is bad for splitting so it looks like I have some rough turning to do.
Glad to help out ☺️
Very nice, another great information video.
Thorough and useful. Why when you coal bowls do you coat the whole bowl and not just the end-grain?
For me works well and its not that longer of a step, and now I usually don't coat at all
Thanks. I was about to ask about humidity and temperature and then you showed them. Here in Montana it is much dryer than in Croatia, and wood dries very quickly so I paint them if I won't turn them quickly.
Every area is a bit different, but its always a good practice to slow it down to stack cards in your favor but if the wood wants to crack like plum there is no stoping😉
For those with limited space, I was wondering if making a small drying enclosure, say a frame wrapped in polythene, would allow more controlled drying.
Say, one enclosure for each batch of items.
Maybe, even a large cardboard box inside a big polythene bag?
They could be stacked and dated.
What are your thoughts?
.
Its good if you have the space and many have that setup and Works.... For me this usually works great but I'll still have to see in new shop how the temp and humidity changes during winter for drying....
This is great information, thank you for sharing.
This is great info, I'm learning a lot. Do you check the % moisture content before you final turn things? What is the ideal moisture content to turn at? As a beginner turning one could get impatient and not want to wait for a finished project. The blanks you spoke of for boxes you mentioned would be ready in a few YEARS 🙂Oh and these talking videos are great, loads of valuable info.
Well you can always turn them finish gree n and let them warp...its nice effect.... I leaved them for a year aa they get stable, also in some climates its much shorter,so after just few months you can finish those.... I only measure moisture for stuff that interlocks with oher woods like boxes and such....
Usually I wood look under 15%moisture
Even when you get everything sorted out you will not have enough space 😂😊 bigger workshop more space to fill and you will fill it, thats life. Love living it.
As in all learning process you need to know what happens at the start, you have to start any learning journey by sweeping the floor 😊
Very true sir☺️ thanks for watching
You Have to talk so I can learn. Thank You for the information. Rich from Missouri in the US
Thank you Rich
Great video with a lot of excellent information and tips. I have been turning since around 2010 but have only made maybe the amount that you had there; if that in my time of turning: however I don’t get a lot of time in my shop. While I have known about a few different ways of sealing and drying bowl blanks I haven’t had the greatest success, especially with cherry, but it might just be because of the time of year that I’ve turned my blanks or haven’t turned them to quite the right thickness. Even though I’ve been turning for many years as well as doing general woodworking, furniture type stuff, I am still always learning new things, ideas, tips and tricks, and new ways to accomplish to make work easier or just better. I came across your channel about a year ago from watching Richard Raffans channel and I have been so glad that I did.
A really random question, but do you happen to have a nickname? Something that is shorter than Tomislav? Not that I’m saying it’s a bad name or anything but was just curious.
Thanks Scott for watching and comment 🤗
I have several nicknames, Like Toma, Tomek, Tomi, Tomo , I only had two People call me by full name, both masters I learned woodworking from😉
Great info!
Great video with good info, thanks. Just a quick question when you use PVA do you have 10% water or 10% PVA? I'm in Australia and everything I do seems to split, I've used paint, wax and even bathroom latex sealer, nothing seems to work efectively.
@tomislavtomasicwoodturning I have the same question: is it 10% water, or 10% PVA?
Sorry guys for late response, I dialute pva glue with 10% water, roughly, doesn't have to be excact.... Coat entire bowl, if you have a lot of throuble with cracks try after first coat ,after day or two apply second coat as well....
Good video and information, I'm thinking about trying to put some in a bag of rice, have you ever tried that, the rice can be dried and reused, and here in Central Louisiana rice is easy to get
No I haven't,but try it,it might work for you ☺️ thank you for watching
Any guidance on drying Olivewood? I'm trying to dry some 3x6 rounds for boxes and it's not going particularly well. Thanks for your video.
Olive can be temperamental, it does like crack, however rough turning the box shape a bit thinner then usual 10% should result in warping rathen then spliting.... Also avoid having them in big chunks like log format as in my practice likes to split to a point of that is ruined
Your channel is one of the most education and informative one on UA-cam for turners! Thank you so much for taking all the time it takes to make these videos. You are a fabulous teacher!
@@Amybaumgart thank you very much 🤗
Brilliant as always.
Thanks Tom I.
Yes plum is interesting timber
Have ever consider a kiln to dry your bowls?
I have,and I played around with kilns but just don't have the space for what I need and want😀
Hi
Once again, thank you for your very informative videos.
I wish my teachers at school were able to teach like you, I'd be a professor. 😅.
Q. What is the optimum moisture percentage to finish turn a bowl.?
I live in South Africa, hot sometimes very dry, sometimes a lot of rain for a couple of days.
Thanks, have a great 2025, and I cant wait to see next years videos.
Thank you Barry
You can turn wood from any moisture range,just depends on what are you doing and what for.
I like turn dry stuff so my wood is under 20%moisture
Great advice!
Excellent video!
very interesting! how do you treat plum wood?
I seal it and turn little thinner for a rough out,but usually I would just turn it thin ,once turn bowl
thank you for the answer. that helps a lot. maybe its better to turn plum wood wet and thin with a good tool finish. thanks also for the recent tool finish video.
Do you ever microwave bowls to dry them after a first rough out turning? Seems like that would be a lot faster than waiting months for them to equalize moisture….
I do but it will still take you several sessions, and I usually use microwave for drying thin bowls for warping
Thank you so much, very good information!
Very informative video.
🕶thanks Tomislav
It is a lot easier to dry bowls in a relatively low temp/humidity environment. I live in central Texas and large bowls can lose 400g of water in the first week, even when sealed. But its regularly 35C+ here.
That is true, but we have big oscilation and last few years big storms so everything changes a bit and every area is diffent, I would like to be able to dry that fast but I have to slow it down....
Thanks for your input
@@tomislavtomasicwoodturning when they dry that fast, they crack unfortunately. And not just across the grain, but sometimes with the grain.
75% humidity in winter is quite high. You do anything to get that, or it just happens?
The wall behind shelfs are accually retaining wall,and we have a lot of underground waters and so naturaly there is a lot of moisture there, so that helps for sure.
Thats pretty much it... There was before clothes dryer with exhaust in the shop and I remove that so it doesn't heat up shop.
Thanks for the new info.....I'm subbing
Thank you, appriciate that ☺️
Great info. 😎🐎🙏🤘
Thanks for your video
Привет, Томислав. Видео разговорное, но очень нужное. Особенно для начинающих. По твоему мнению, какой температурно-влажностный режим самый оптимальный для сушки в условиях мастерской? Ведь влагомер ты повесил не зря, как-то контролируешь влажность и температуру? И ещё вопрос: сколько заготовок у тебя сохнет в мастерской? Ведь нужен постоянный оборот готового материала. В одном из видео ты говорил, что стремишься, чтобы было 500 заготовок.
Thank you very much, I kept that humidity meter from years ago when I play with kilns, I don't control inviroment as usually you'll fail... however I did throw out few years ago clothes dryer with exhaust beacuse it did Heat up the shop a lot and crack bowls....
I strive for 500 to have inventory so I can make different stuff what clients order, last winter I start and with the rest of the logs outside I'll probably get to 750 this winter, I didn't use much of these stock as most orders came for spindle work, but it gives me peace knowing I have this stock when some odd order came.
Hope that makes sense ☺️
Да, оборотный материал обязательно нужен. У меня сейчас около 200 заготовок. Но максимум, что вместит мастерская это наверное 400@@tomislavtomasicwoodturning
Yes, plum cracks a lot, I don't mind as it gives an opportunity for resin but no good for you.
Indeed, I now usually just turn them once
first of all get tree in winter and that is big sucsess already