Thank you for the video Kent. A live edge bowl from that Holly with moss on the rim would be an amazing contrast in colours. Green turned of course. Who wants Kent to turn more bowls ? me me me
Thank you Kent, there are usually nice pieces laying around after a storm - trouble is I've never had a saw with me. I've just purchased one of those hand held miniature chain saws and will carry it with me for future occasions.
My dad got me into turning. He also was a bee keeper. He always had beeswax laying around from the hives. When he was processing blanks, he would warm up the beeswax, and simply dip the end grain into the hot wax to seal it up. I don’t keep bees so thanks for the tip.
Maybe consider building a log cradle to support the logs while you cut and bring the chainsaw off the ground and to your arm's length to save your back. Spalted Holly makes beautiful bowls and hollow forms.
I’ve hade good experience with sealing end grain with boiling hot wax…just get a pot big enough to dunk the blanks in. Or cheap wood glue mixed 50/50 with water works too.
Both of those methods work well. I find the Anchor Seal easy to deal with, kind of waxy and easy to clean up in my shop. Our local AAW club buys Anchor Seal in the 50 gallon drum and passes the savings on to it's paid up members.
Kent… First, Thank You for all you share. I have had a horrible day. I made my first bowl. It is ugly. I used a ring so I could clamp it in my Chuck. I hit the screws because I went to deep. I tried to do the dovetail that goes in. From now on I am doing the dovetail that extends out like you have recommended on most of your videos. If you recall from my other comments I turn sitting in my wheelchair. I have a new Laguna 1216. I put the 20” extension on the offboard side of the headstock. Since I am not that strong I was using the Sorby SteadyPro along with the TurnMaster tool. The 20” extension gives me the added room I need. Have you ever done a video using the SteadyPro? You might give it a try. I asked Clive the Sorby Rep/video dude to send you a complete set up. So if it arrives…. It was me who told Sorby to get you a full set up. If you hold any experience in using this set up please feel free to fire a flair in the air. So there you have it. Thanks again for your expertise. I am gratefull for all your work. Regards, Thom Schuck, Portland Oregon.
Hello Thom, Thank you for writing and sharing! I'm sorry to hear about your bad day. I have not used the SteadyPro, but it sounds interesting. Most of those attachments require a precise height and location setting. Perhaps check that closer, maybe it will help. Whatever you do, don't give up. You've got this! Remember; persistent, patient practice will yield the bowls you imagine creating! All the best to you and Happy Turning! Kent
I've used anchor seal, works pretty well but it's very expensive for what we woodworkers use it for. I've found that plain old Elmer's school glue and water works really well (1:1 is about as thin as you want it or else it just makes a mess and doesn't dry thick enough) Also a great use for old wood glue that you maybe don't trust for joints anymore, and old paint works well (just about any type as long as it's not separated too badly).
I like your video. Agree with sawbuck to raise logs to thigh level. I go from chainsaw to band saw to lathe and will rough turn 20-40 bowls. Makes for a busy 3-4 days. If bandsawed to blank but not bowl yet I will cover with wet towels for a day or two. Very little cracking.
Excellent tip, K. I don't have Anker-Seal, but do have some gallon cans of latex house paint. Another great way to seal the end-grains and use up old paint. Thanks for sharing
Hi Kent -- I'd love to get some holly some day, but it doesn't grow up north where I live -- such a nice bright white wood. I use Anchorseal very often, I understand that it is a paraffin wax and water emulsion -- the water evaporates, leaving a wax coating behind. Thanks for your detailed videos!
Hello, Roger and welcome. Check out my online Courses. These are all labeled in sequence order and easy to reference whenever you need. Here's a link www.TurnAWoodBowl.com/courses All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Great video Kent. I would like to know where to purchase the "Auto Loading" buggie you have there. Would indeed made me the envy of the local turners. Anchor Seal - great stuff! I have a saw buck for cutting like you did here, For me it puts the piece at eye level. It's really strong, we recently cut full 12 foot logs in it, the AAW club was thrilled I had that tool for our Cutting Day event, we produced about 200 bowl blanks that day. Lowell
Lowell, I'm still working out the kinks with the auto loader. Could be used for teleporting too. ;) Yeah, I need to make a bench too…with an auto loader. Happy Turning! Kent
Could you use paraffin or candle wax to seal the end grain as well? I recently got some applewood logs that have been sitting outdoors for a few weeks that need to be cut down to (hopefully) remove the cracks and get them made into blanks, but nowhere nearby sells anchorseal. I also have heard latex paint works too, regardless id hate to let the logs go to waste if I can still get them processed and sealed
@TurnAWoodBowl I used a heat gun while rubbing in the paraffin to make sure it soaked into the wood at least a little. I'm not sure if it'll work, but it's better than nothing, I figure. Thanks for your videos by the way, I've been watching your perfect tenon video non-stop so I can try to get it just right and even ordered a spindle gouge similar to the one you use 👍
I believe you typically do twice-turning, so does that also mean that you leave these sitting on a shelf with the sealer only long enough to give yourself time to do the first turning and avoid splitting?
I have been told that I should get rid of the pith, but you cut right through the center of the log. Which is it, get rid of it or keep it, at what stage
The general rule of thumb for production turning is to completely remove the pith, which means losing another 10% (roughly) of the diameter of the log. This will improve the chances that you will not get radial checks during drying. If you are trying to maximize the depth of the bowl, you might take the chance on cracks initiating at the pith. Of course the once turned or finished bowl still can move and check as moisture levels change. A consideration, especially in larger stock is to remove a pith section slab thick enough to make plate or spindle blanks cut from the quarter sawn wood you have on either side of the pith. For small stuff, i have processed quite a lot just as shown here.
Cutting through the center is usually enough to release tensions. Some species, and larger logs with a larger pith do benefit from cutting all of the pith area out, usually in two passes, one on each side of the pith. Happy Turning!
Kent, Did you thin the Anchor Seal down before using it or was it used straight from the container without any dilution? It looks very runny like white water. All the times I’ve used Anchor Seal (summer & winter) it had a thicker viscosity almost like pancake syrup. I’m in Sonoma County California about 90 mins north of San Francisco.
Good question. There are a variety of reasons these will form. One technique is to fill them with wood glue in hopes the glue holds and prevents them for expanding. See my Tree to Bowl Course for full details. www.TurnAWoodBowl.com/green Happy Turning!
Tom, Cutting through the center is usually enough to release tensions. Some species, and larger logs with a larger pith do benefit from cutting all of the pith area out, usually in two passes, one on each side of the pith. Happy Turning!
@@TurnAWoodBowl Thanks, Kent. I’m a big fan and promote you whenever I can. Last weekend I was at a turners meeting and they were talking about Beads of Courage boxes as a club project but nobody knew much about them. I told them about your video because you explain the whole process and you clearly have a passion for the project.
Hey Kent, Thank you for this, been sort of muddling my way though LOL I have a "ripping" chain for my saw as well as the cross-cut, On larger diameter logs I have gotten I (when possible) place them onto a home-built saw stand and using an "Alaskan mill" attachment I cut boards & slabs. One thing I do quite often is board-saw the top half of log, then once past pith cut the rest up for bowl blanks. Tip, Boards need about 1 yr/inch of thickness to dry. so I have several stack of different species. Oak, Walnut, Ash & Maple 4'-10' in length for my woodworking projects. The smaller stuff 2"- 5" diameter I "spindle turn" things like snowmen/women, Christmas trees (yes, it is that time of yr again LOL) Gnomes & rolling pins Including Celtic knot ones :-) Fingers crossed as I had JUST processed a BUNCH of bowl blanks when I injured my back - 8 weeks ago so fingers crossed :-)- Tyler
What kind of bs is "the cool thing about crotch sections is that you just need to line up the piths"?! I have yet to find a crotch section isn't curved and twisted.
Thank you for the video Kent. A live edge bowl from that Holly with moss on the rim would be an amazing contrast in colours. Green turned of course.
Who wants Kent to turn more bowls ? me me me
LOL. You just made me actually LOL. Thanks and Happy Turning!
Thank you Kent, there are usually nice pieces laying around after a storm - trouble is I've never had a saw with me. I've just purchased one of those hand held miniature chain saws and will carry it with me for future occasions.
Sounds good Gordon. Enjoy and Happy Turning!
My dad got me into turning. He also was a bee keeper. He always had beeswax laying around from the hives. When he was processing blanks, he would warm up the beeswax, and simply dip the end grain into the hot wax to seal it up. I don’t keep bees so thanks for the tip.
Maybe consider building a log cradle to support the logs while you cut and bring the chainsaw off the ground and to your arm's length to save your back. Spalted Holly makes beautiful bowls and hollow forms.
I think I will Dennis. Happy Turning!
Thanks for the lesson.
My pleasure, Rafael. Happy Turning!
I’ve hade good experience with sealing end grain with boiling hot wax…just get a pot big enough to dunk the blanks in. Or cheap wood glue mixed 50/50 with water works too.
Both of those methods work well. I find the Anchor Seal easy to deal with, kind of waxy and easy to clean up in my shop. Our local AAW club buys Anchor Seal in the 50 gallon drum and passes the savings on to it's paid up members.
Always useful and informative. Many thanks.
Kent… First, Thank You for all you share. I have had a horrible day. I made my first bowl. It is ugly. I used a ring so I could clamp it in my Chuck. I hit the screws because I went to deep. I tried to do the dovetail that goes in. From now on I am doing the dovetail that extends out like you have recommended on most of your videos. If you recall from my other comments I turn sitting in my wheelchair. I have a new Laguna 1216. I put the 20” extension on the offboard side of the headstock. Since I am not that strong I was using the Sorby SteadyPro along with the TurnMaster tool. The 20” extension gives me the added room I need. Have you ever done a video using the SteadyPro? You might give it a try. I asked Clive the Sorby Rep/video dude to send you a complete set up. So if it arrives…. It was me who told Sorby to get you a full set up. If you hold any experience in using this set up please feel free to fire a flair in the air. So there you have it. Thanks again for your expertise. I am gratefull for all your work. Regards, Thom Schuck, Portland Oregon.
Hello Thom, Thank you for writing and sharing! I'm sorry to hear about your bad day. I have not used the SteadyPro, but it sounds interesting. Most of those attachments require a precise height and location setting. Perhaps check that closer, maybe it will help. Whatever you do, don't give up. You've got this! Remember; persistent, patient practice will yield the bowls you imagine creating! All the best to you and Happy Turning! Kent
Love the channel keep it up
Thank you, Jesse! Happy Turning!
My turning club gets a superior deal on anchor seal. We buy the big barrel and transfer the savings to our members. Clubs are awesome.
Great plan Archie. Happy Turning!
Anchorseal is a wax emulsion. When the solvent dries it leaves the wax behind.
Very timely video thank you.😊
Glad it was helpful, Dave! Happy Turning!
I've used anchor seal, works pretty well but it's very expensive for what we woodworkers use it for. I've found that plain old Elmer's school glue and water works really well (1:1 is about as thin as you want it or else it just makes a mess and doesn't dry thick enough)
Also a great use for old wood glue that you maybe don't trust for joints anymore, and old paint works well (just about any type as long as it's not separated too badly).
Sounds good, thanks for sharing. Happy Turning!
I like your video. Agree with sawbuck to raise logs to thigh level. I go from chainsaw to band saw to lathe and will rough turn 20-40 bowls. Makes for a busy 3-4 days. If bandsawed to blank but not bowl yet I will cover with wet towels for a day or two. Very little cracking.
Thanks for the tips, Dennis! Happy Turning!
Excellent tip, K. I don't have Anker-Seal, but do have some gallon cans of latex house paint. Another great way to seal the end-grains and use up old paint. Thanks for sharing
Good point Lou. Thank you for writing and sharing! Happy Turning!
Thanks Kent.
You are very welcome Jack! Happy Turning!
Very Nice Great information.
Many many thanks David!
Hi Kent -- I'd love to get some holly some day, but it doesn't grow up north where I live -- such a nice bright white wood. I use Anchorseal very often, I understand that it is a paraffin wax and water emulsion -- the water evaporates, leaving a wax coating behind. Thanks for your detailed videos!
Thank you for writing and sharing Steve. Happy Turning!
You can also find where your county and or your town ship bumps there tree trimmings.
Yes indeed, Ron!
The link is broken for the chainsaw. What one do you use?
So with the smaller sections that can be used for spindle turning. Do you treat them the same way with coating the end grains with the anchor seal?
Hi newbie turner. Been watch n learning alot from your vids. Do you have an idex of videos / courses so I can be systematic with my learning?
Hello, Roger and welcome. Check out my online Courses. These are all labeled in sequence order and easy to reference whenever you need. Here's a link www.TurnAWoodBowl.com/courses All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Great video Kent. I would like to know where to purchase the "Auto Loading" buggie you have there. Would indeed made me the envy of the local turners.
Anchor Seal - great stuff!
I have a saw buck for cutting like you did here, For me it puts the piece at eye level. It's really strong, we recently cut full 12 foot logs in it, the AAW club was thrilled I had that tool for our Cutting Day event, we produced about 200 bowl blanks that day.
Lowell
Lowell,
I'm still working out the kinks with the auto loader. Could be used for teleporting too. ;) Yeah, I need to make a bench too…with an auto loader.
Happy Turning!
Kent
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣😂@@TurnAWoodBowl
Could you use paraffin or candle wax to seal the end grain as well? I recently got some applewood logs that have been sitting outdoors for a few weeks that need to be cut down to (hopefully) remove the cracks and get them made into blanks, but nowhere nearby sells anchorseal. I also have heard latex paint works too, regardless id hate to let the logs go to waste if I can still get them processed and sealed
It might work, but it can also flake off easily.
@TurnAWoodBowl I used a heat gun while rubbing in the paraffin to make sure it soaked into the wood at least a little. I'm not sure if it'll work, but it's better than nothing, I figure. Thanks for your videos by the way, I've been watching your perfect tenon video non-stop so I can try to get it just right and even ordered a spindle gouge similar to the one you use 👍
I believe you typically do twice-turning, so does that also mean that you leave these sitting on a shelf with the sealer only long enough to give yourself time to do the first turning and avoid splitting?
Dana, It all depends. I can't get to everything quickly. Some will sit for some time before I turn them. Happy Turning!
I have been told that I should get rid of the pith, but you cut right through the center of the log. Which is it, get rid of it or keep it, at what stage
The general rule of thumb for production turning is to completely remove the pith, which means losing another 10% (roughly) of the diameter of the log. This will improve the chances that you will not get radial checks during drying. If you are trying to maximize the depth of the bowl, you might take the chance on cracks initiating at the pith. Of course the once turned or finished bowl still can move and check as moisture levels change. A consideration, especially in larger stock is to remove a pith section slab thick enough to make plate or spindle blanks cut from the quarter sawn wood you have on either side of the pith. For small stuff, i have processed quite a lot just as shown here.
Cutting through the center is usually enough to release tensions. Some species, and larger logs with a larger pith do benefit from cutting all of the pith area out, usually in two passes, one on each side of the pith. Happy Turning!
Kent,
Did you thin the Anchor Seal down before using it or was it used straight from the container without any dilution? It looks very runny like white water. All the times I’ve used Anchor Seal (summer & winter) it had a thicker viscosity almost like pancake syrup. I’m in Sonoma County California about 90 mins north of San Francisco.
Rick, it was summer and the anchorseal was thinner. Happy Turning!
How do I seal naturally occurring cracks in logs I'm salvaging for turning (i.e. walnut)?
Good question. There are a variety of reasons these will form. One technique is to fill them with wood glue in hopes the glue holds and prevents them for expanding. See my Tree to Bowl Course for full details. www.TurnAWoodBowl.com/green Happy Turning!
Kent, thanks for your great instructions and videos. What do you recommend regarding the bark? Better left on or remove?
I leave it usually, Larry. It will do what it wants. Later if it comes loose I'll remove it. Happy Turning!
Is it enough to cut thru the pith as you did or should it be removed completely?
Tom, Cutting through the center is usually enough to release tensions. Some species, and larger logs with a larger pith do benefit from cutting all of the pith area out, usually in two passes, one on each side of the pith. Happy Turning!
@@TurnAWoodBowl Thanks, Kent. I’m a big fan and promote you whenever I can. Last weekend I was at a turners meeting and they were talking about Beads of Courage boxes as a club project but nobody knew much about them. I told them about your video because you explain the whole process and you clearly have a passion for the project.
Thanks for the video, what are you smearing the ends with? (white liquid)
That would be Anchor Seal...
Anchorseal amzn.to/3FzdjBM
Hey Kent, Thank you for this, been sort of muddling my way though LOL I have a "ripping" chain for my saw as well as the cross-cut, On larger diameter logs I have gotten I (when possible) place them onto a home-built saw stand and using an "Alaskan mill" attachment I cut boards & slabs. One thing I do quite often is board-saw the top half of log, then once past pith cut the rest up for bowl blanks. Tip, Boards need about 1 yr/inch of thickness to dry. so I have several stack of different species. Oak, Walnut, Ash & Maple 4'-10' in length for my woodworking projects. The smaller stuff 2"- 5" diameter I "spindle turn" things like snowmen/women, Christmas trees (yes, it is that time of yr again LOL) Gnomes & rolling pins Including Celtic knot ones :-) Fingers crossed as I had JUST processed a BUNCH of bowl blanks when I injured my back - 8 weeks ago so fingers crossed :-)- Tyler
Thank you for writing and sharing, Tyler! I hope your back is better soon and you're back to turning. All the best to you and Happy Turning! Kent
What kind of bs is "the cool thing about crotch sections is that you just need to line up the piths"?! I have yet to find a crotch section isn't curved and twisted.