Its very hard to get something like this down to the numbers shown here. A part from the mentioned elephants foot you also have other printing problems and that the plastic is soft and hard to measure correctly. But yes, its a good tip to improve it a little bit. (With a size as K2:s, it might be interesting to do the print tests in all four corners of the build plate to see if it gives the same result)
If would be hard to find a cheap set of calipers that can measure almost a 500mm diagonal. But yes, that would be a great test. A 12 inch or 300mm set are somewhat cheap. I could make the test a 200mm square with a 282mm diagonal.
@@theincompetentcraftsman I meant that you can print the current setup but in four copies in the four different corners. I'm not totally sure the result will be the same for all four rectangles.
I've gotten in the habit of creating a new file with a new version of every macro i would have edited like start_print_v2 and end_print_v2 where I copied over everything necessary and then refined even further. As of now I have moved all the nozzle wipes from the start to the end that way when I print above 350c the plastic can be cleaned off while its still fully hot and at several points while the nozzle cools down at the end but during the start sequence I can probe the bed completely cold a d be confident no plastic is interfering. It has brought the start sequence down to about 2 minutes from a cold start to the moment the print actually starts. I need to re-write the macros for the CFS, from day one on stock everything it crushes cardboard spools and I fully expect some nasty clogs to follow. Until I'm proven wrong or I think I have fixed it I wont be using the CFS sadly.
Two questions, if I may. First, why do you reset the skew correction to start with and then reset it when the current print is done? Wouldn’t just leaving the set correction at the start work? Or would the skew correction be cumulative? And second, the factory installation for Klipper only has the Fluidd interface. Do you know if the Mainsail interface can be added. When I install Klipper on my K1 Max, I always install both interfaces. I like Mainsail better. And a similar question, do you know how to set the camera in Fluidd? All my attempts have failed and I have ended up with a bunch of cameras that don’t work, and I have been unable to delete them. Thanks so very much.
Hey brother Does your k1 get good first layers at high temps like 105/260 60chamber ? Mine gets terrible first layers with ASA at those temps Would you be willing to test ? So far everyone is just printing PLA and saying how amazing it is even to buying an enclosed printer with a chamber heater for PLA is stupidity at the highest……
I've wasted a few days on trying to print ASA and tune profile. Sometimes it clogs during print (1st layer mostly) or 100% on the follow up print. So I've become unclogging nozzle expert by now. Filament pulled out of clogged nozzle hints on heat creep. Also cut filament tip that unloaded back to CFS is deformed to the point that CFS is often unable to unload it or more often load it back on the next print. (Talking about C-TECH ASA which prints fine on tiny prusa mini at 260C).
@ I also have c tech ASA this is not a clogging issue bro ! The z offset is the problem The nozzle is so close that the filament gets compressed it buckles and clogs the nozzle Try raising your z offset with the macro tutorial this guy made Mine had to be raised y 0,140mm ! Now it prints amazing
@@martinskamla6789 I agree, clogging is the secondary issue which is caused by warped bed, supposedly mesh probing should compensate for it but it isn't good enough in case of my wrapped bed (-0.7mm in the middle and moving up to +0.2 depending on bed temp it looks like inverted mountain range). I've also ended up rising Z offset in slicer (one can do it in bed settings) to about 0.06mm and success rate gone up but it aren't 100% so one has to babysit printer until it finishes 1st layer. Rising Z offset has it's limits, in my case going above 0.06 creates bed adhesion issues and in some places print just doesn't stick. I'd hazard a guess it all depends on luck of getting decently even bed. Another issue is xy skew which can be compensated as this video demonstrates. I have about 1mm gap on the left between carriage and frame when gantry is pushed all the way to front (it could be either gantry skew or skewed frame, /me wonders if it's possible to fix skew mechanically).
I wonder if you could make it so that it can print on the whole 370 mm or at least 365 mm plate, instead of the 348" limitation we have. I have observed the extruder does move very close to the edge, but I guess you would have to either use orca or mod some settings.
You can, the printer applies an xy offset to 100% ensure its with in the build plate but then force the printer to go into the negatives for the filament cutter and the chute. Because the macros have to be re-written for all of that in both states where the CFS is connected and not connected when one wants to print TPU, I have not changed that part. But i would highly recommend changing the power supply for a MeanWell one with a thermally controlled fan and adding LED ON and OFF commands in the start and end print macros as well as M84 to turn off the motors. Now when the printer sits idle it looks completely off and sounds completely off
@@Guardian_Arias Thanks for the insight. Now I understand better. It would be cool to have color leds not only for the power supply, but for the whole printer as well.
@@Foreign_Tropical I meant i used the existing white LEDs that came with the printer. I simply just added the GCODE comand in the start print macro and end print macro so that the stock lights turn on and off based on whether or not its printing.
@Foreign_Tropical The nozzle cam has its own light that turns on as part of the AI scan but either way I have the LED ON command as the first line in start print before it homed before it does anything the moment i send a print to the printer the light comes on and on the flip side the light stays on until everything is done and the nozzle has cooled down.
Thanks for the video. Noob question here: To disable skew correction like you mentioned at the end would i just comment (#) out the gcode macros in all the appropriate places within printer.cfg or delete files& gcode completely? Got 2 broken feet abd want to do this with a before and after reinstalling new feet once they arrive
Correct. Or just wait till after you get your feet to implement the skew correction. Maybe print a piece with the broken feet, one with the new feet, then add skew correction.
This is a great suggestion. I'll try this on my other printer too. Have you tried to implement adaptive mesh? It appears thst they have some hard coded requirement of a 9x9 mesh, which causes a "index out of range" critical error if you use less. After which a power cycle is needed, otherwise the print head crashes on y homing!
Adaptive mesh might be a bad idea because of the big plate. My build plate have a variation of between 0.6 and 0.8 mm, imagine what happens if it tries to move the head outside of the adaptive mesh (for example to change color on first layer) when printing at 0.2mm layer height. It would need to be given a z-hop of at least a mm outside of the adaptive mesh, not sure if it does that.
Good points about needing z hop between color swaps. I'll look closer on my next color print to see if it z hops much, before moving to cut the filament. I tried printing the calibration and measured 100.04, ~142.2 and ~142.5 without making changes. Not reprinted yet though...
Great work. Right now I copied your configuration files and loaded them into my K2 plus... we'll see
Awesome! If you copied my printer.cfg file, make sure you run the auto leveling, bed pid, and hotend pid (in that order) before you print anything.
Its very hard to get something like this down to the numbers shown here. A part from the mentioned elephants foot you also have other printing problems and that the plastic is soft and hard to measure correctly. But yes, its a good tip to improve it a little bit. (With a size as K2:s, it might be interesting to do the print tests in all four corners of the build plate to see if it gives the same result)
If would be hard to find a cheap set of calipers that can measure almost a 500mm diagonal. But yes, that would be a great test. A 12 inch or 300mm set are somewhat cheap. I could make the test a 200mm square with a 282mm diagonal.
@@theincompetentcraftsman I meant that you can print the current setup but in four copies in the four different corners. I'm not totally sure the result will be the same for all four rectangles.
I've gotten in the habit of creating a new file with a new version of every macro i would have edited like start_print_v2 and end_print_v2 where I copied over everything necessary and then refined even further.
As of now I have moved all the nozzle wipes from the start to the end that way when I print above 350c the plastic can be cleaned off while its still fully hot and at several points while the nozzle cools down at the end but during the start sequence I can probe the bed completely cold a d be confident no plastic is interfering. It has brought the start sequence down to about 2 minutes from a cold start to the moment the print actually starts.
I need to re-write the macros for the CFS, from day one on stock everything it crushes cardboard spools and I fully expect some nasty clogs to follow. Until I'm proven wrong or I think I have fixed it I wont be using the CFS sadly.
Two questions, if I may. First, why do you reset the skew correction to start with and then reset it when the current print is done? Wouldn’t just leaving the set correction at the start work? Or would the skew correction be cumulative?
And second, the factory installation for Klipper only has the Fluidd interface. Do you know if the Mainsail interface can be added. When I install Klipper on my K1 Max, I always install both interfaces. I like Mainsail better. And a similar question, do you know how to set the camera in Fluidd? All my attempts have failed and I have ended up with a bunch of cameras that don’t work, and I have been unable to delete them. Thanks so very much.
Hey brother
Does your k1 get good first layers at high temps like 105/260 60chamber ?
Mine gets terrible first layers with ASA at those temps
Would you be willing to test ? So far everyone is just printing PLA and saying how amazing it is even to buying an enclosed printer with a chamber heater for PLA is stupidity at the highest……
I haven't printed asa yet. If I run into any issues when I do print asa, I'll post my results/problems.
In addition, Creality recommends printing PLA with the top off of the K1 series printers anyway.
I've wasted a few days on trying to print ASA and tune profile. Sometimes it clogs during print (1st layer mostly) or 100% on the follow up print. So I've become unclogging nozzle expert by now. Filament pulled out of clogged nozzle hints on heat creep. Also cut filament tip that unloaded back to CFS is deformed to the point that CFS is often unable to unload it or more often load it back on the next print. (Talking about C-TECH ASA which prints fine on tiny prusa mini at 260C).
@ I also have c tech ASA this is not a clogging issue bro !
The z offset is the problem
The nozzle is so close that the filament gets compressed it buckles and clogs the nozzle Try raising your z offset with the macro tutorial this guy made
Mine had to be raised y 0,140mm ! Now it prints amazing
@@martinskamla6789 I agree, clogging is the secondary issue which is caused by warped bed, supposedly mesh probing should compensate for it but it isn't good enough in case of my wrapped bed (-0.7mm in the middle and moving up to +0.2 depending on bed temp it looks like inverted mountain range).
I've also ended up rising Z offset in slicer (one can do it in bed settings) to about 0.06mm and success rate gone up but it aren't 100% so one has to babysit printer until it finishes 1st layer. Rising Z offset has it's limits, in my case going above 0.06 creates bed adhesion issues and in some places print just doesn't stick. I'd hazard a guess it all depends on luck of getting decently even bed.
Another issue is xy skew which can be compensated as this video demonstrates. I have about 1mm gap on the left between carriage and frame when gantry is pushed all the way to front (it could be either gantry skew or skewed frame, /me wonders if it's possible to fix skew mechanically).
I wonder if you could make it so that it can print on the whole 370 mm or at least 365 mm plate, instead of the 348" limitation we have. I have observed the extruder does move very close to the edge, but I guess you would have to either use orca or mod some settings.
You can, the printer applies an xy offset to 100% ensure its with in the build plate but then force the printer to go into the negatives for the filament cutter and the chute. Because the macros have to be re-written for all of that in both states where the CFS is connected and not connected when one wants to print TPU, I have not changed that part. But i would highly recommend changing the power supply for a MeanWell one with a thermally controlled fan and adding LED ON and OFF commands in the start and end print macros as well as M84 to turn off the motors. Now when the printer sits idle it looks completely off and sounds completely off
@@Guardian_Arias Thanks for the insight. Now I understand better. It would be cool to have color leds not only for the power supply, but for the whole printer as well.
@@Foreign_Tropical I meant i used the existing white LEDs that came with the printer. I simply just added the GCODE comand in the start print macro and end print macro so that the stock lights turn on and off based on whether or not its printing.
@@Guardian_Arias Doesnt the lights need to be on for the Ai error detection to work? AFAIK the k2 cam isnt infrared.
@Foreign_Tropical The nozzle cam has its own light that turns on as part of the AI scan but either way I have the LED ON command as the first line in start print before it homed before it does anything the moment i send a print to the printer the light comes on and on the flip side the light stays on until everything is done and the nozzle has cooled down.
Thanks for the video. Noob question here: To disable skew correction like you mentioned at the end would i just comment (#) out the gcode macros in all the appropriate places within printer.cfg or delete files& gcode completely? Got 2 broken feet abd want to do this with a before and after reinstalling new feet once they arrive
Correct. Or just wait till after you get your feet to implement the skew correction. Maybe print a piece with the broken feet, one with the new feet, then add skew correction.
This is a great suggestion. I'll try this on my other printer too. Have you tried to implement adaptive mesh? It appears thst they have some hard coded requirement of a 9x9 mesh, which causes a "index out of range" critical error if you use less. After which a power cycle is needed, otherwise the print head crashes on y homing!
Adaptive mesh might be a bad idea because of the big plate. My build plate have a variation of between 0.6 and 0.8 mm, imagine what happens if it tries to move the head outside of the adaptive mesh (for example to change color on first layer) when printing at 0.2mm layer height. It would need to be given a z-hop of at least a mm outside of the adaptive mesh, not sure if it does that.
It could be implemented, like @drosendahl said, other parts of the firmware/configuration files would also need to be changed.
Good points about needing z hop between color swaps. I'll look closer on my next color print to see if it z hops much, before moving to cut the filament. I tried printing the calibration and measured 100.04, ~142.2 and ~142.5 without making changes. Not reprinted yet though...
I'm new to this. K2 has been ordered. Did you flash the firmware with kilipper?
Klipper comes standard
thanks cool
It helped a bunch on my K1 printers